Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
![]() |
|
Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
The previous owner of my home mounted curtains on the front entry door. I took them down because they looked so bad, but now I have empty screw holes where the screws were for the brackets.
What would be the best product to use to patch those holes ? and that won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ? It's a heavy steal entry door. Any help is appreciated Thanks |
#2
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Monday, March 30, 2015 at 10:25:21 PM UTC-4, sid wrote:
The previous owner of my home mounted curtains on the front entry door. I took them down because they looked so bad, but now I have empty screw holes where the screws were for the brackets. What would be the best product to use to patch those holes ? and that won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ? It's a heavy steal entry door. Any help is appreciated Thanks screw a metal plate over the area, then paint door.... |
#3
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Mon, 30 Mar 2015 19:25:17 -0700 (PDT), sid
wrote: The previous owner of my home mounted curtains on the front entry door. I took them down because they looked so bad, but now I have empty screw holes where the screws were for the brackets. What would be the best product to use to patch those holes ? and that won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ? It's a heavy steal entry door. Any help is appreciated Thanks LB Weld. Then sand and paint it. If it was my door, I'd probably just put the screws back in the door and paint them to match. |
#4
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]() |
#5
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 3/31/2015 4:25 AM, Mayhem wrote:
On 03/30/2015 11:59 PM, wrote: What would be the best product to use to patch those holes ? and that won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ? It's a heavy steal entry door. Any help is appreciated Thanks LB Weld. Then sand and paint it. Is LB Weld a Chinese knock-off? In the US, we are up to NB weld, they improve every couple years. NASA has reported to use PB weld. Has kind of a dull metalic look to it. - .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
#6
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 08:27:04 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: On 3/31/2015 4:25 AM, Mayhem wrote: On 03/30/2015 11:59 PM, wrote: What would be the best product to use to patch those holes ? and that won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ? It's a heavy steal entry door. Any help is appreciated Thanks LB Weld. Then sand and paint it. Is LB Weld a Chinese knock-off? In the US, we are up to NB weld, they improve every couple years. NASA has reported to use PB weld. Has kind of a dull metalic look to it. -Easily removed with PB Blaster, too!! . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . . |
#7
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 03/30/2015 09:25 PM, sid wrote:
The previous owner of my home mounted curtains on the front entry door. I took them down because they looked so bad, but now I have empty screw holes where the screws were for the brackets. What would be the best product to use to patch those holes ? and that won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ? It's a heavy steal entry door. Any help is appreciated Thanks Since the door is assumed to be hollow, if you put filler in the holes it may fall out. I'd just use pop rivets and paint to match. |
#8
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Mon, 30 Mar 2015 22:02:56 -0500, philo wrote:
On 03/30/2015 09:25 PM, sid wrote: The previous owner of my home mounted curtains on the front entry door. I took them down because they looked so bad, but now I have empty screw holes where the screws were for the brackets. What would be the best product to use to patch those holes ? and that won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ? It's a heavy steal entry door. Or a wooden steel clad door. If that, it's probably not hollow in the corners. If really steel***, it probably is hollow. I had neighbors with a steel door with a life-time guarantee, the kind advertised on TV. When the burglars broke through it, the door company said they would get a free replacement door. Life-time guarantee. ***To find out what it's made of, remove the door and put it in the bathtub. See if it floats or not. Don't let too many bubbles come out of the holes or too much water get inside the door. Any help is appreciated Thanks Since the door is assumed to be hollow, if you put filler in the holes it may fall out. Yes indeed. I'd just use pop rivets and paint to match. They have holes in the middle. (although that might be cute. ) I might glue a small square or squares of metal over the area with the holes. with a thin layer of PC-7, JB weld or best,, 5-minute epoxy, because you can hold it in place until it sets. |
#9
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Mon, 30 Mar 2015 19:25:17 -0700 (PDT), sid
wrote: The previous owner of my home mounted curtains on the front entry door. I took them down because they looked so bad, but now I have empty screw holes where the screws were for the brackets. What would be the best product to use to patch those holes ? and that won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ? It's a heavy steal entry door. Any help is appreciated Thanks JB weld or other filled epoxy, sanded smooth and painted. |
#10
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 3/30/2015 10:25 PM, sid wrote:
The previous owner of my home mounted curtains on the front entry door. I took them down because they looked so bad, but now I have empty screw holes where the screws were for the brackets. What would be the best product to use to patch those holes ? and that won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ? It's a heavy steal entry door. Any help is appreciated Thanks I had a 1970s steel door with decorative plastic do-dads on it. They were mounted via plastic barb-like extrusions and merely pushed into holes in the steel. I removed the do-dads and used Bondo to fill and slightly over fill the holes and then sand it smooth. Worked great. |
#11
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Monday, March 30, 2015 at 9:25:21 PM UTC-5, sid wrote:
The previous owner of my home mounted curtains on the front entry door. I took them down because they looked so bad, but now I have empty screw holes where the screws were for the brackets. What would be the best product to use to patch those holes ? and that won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ? It's a heavy steal entry door. Any help is appreciated Thanks Do I have to lay to door flat to use any of these epoxies ? Would be nice to leave the door in place and just glue. |
#12
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]() |
#13
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 08:14:21 -0500, Bill Gill
wrote: On 3/31/2015 7:58 AM, wrote: On Monday, March 30, 2015 at 9:25:21 PM UTC-5, sid wrote: The previous owner of my home mounted curtains on the front entry door. I took them down because they looked so bad, but now I have empty screw holes where the screws were for the brackets. What would be the best product to use to patch those holes ? and that won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ? It's a heavy steal entry door. Any help is appreciated Thanks Do I have to lay to door flat to use any of these epoxies ? Would be nice to leave the door in place and just glue. I'm not sure about others, but Bondo is car body filler. It will stick good in a vertical position. Bill As will JB weld |
#14
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 08:14:21 -0500, Bill Gill wrote:
On 3/31/2015 7:58 AM, wrote: On Monday, March 30, 2015 at 9:25:21 PM UTC-5, sid wrote: The previous owner of my home mounted curtains on the front entry door. I took them down because they looked so bad, but now I have empty screw holes where the screws were for the brackets. What would be the best product to use to patch those holes ? and that won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ? It's a heavy steal entry door. Any help is appreciated Thanks Do I have to lay to door flat to use any of these epoxies ? Would be nice to leave the door in place and just glue. I'm not sure about others, but Bondo is car body filler. It will stick good in a vertical position. When I've used it on a fender, for example, I've always turned the car on its side. Bill |
#15
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 4/1/2015 3:29 AM, micky wrote:
Do I have to lay to door flat to use any of these epoxies ? Would be nice to leave the door in place and just glue. I'm not sure about others, but Bondo is car body filler. It will stick good in a vertical position. When I've used it on a fender, for example, I've always turned the car on its side. Bill I had to do that with a muffler patch, on the bottom. Problem is the blue washer fluid puddled under the hood (bonnet for UK) and was hard to recover. - .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
#16
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
| Do I have to lay to door flat to use any of these epoxies ?
| Would be nice to leave the door in place and just glue. I'd second Bill Gill's advice. Bondo is quick and will stay almost anywhere. I also use it to fill hinge mortises, casing joints and other areas where spackle or wood putty would fall out. The one critical point with Bondo is to keep track of time. In under five minutes you can shear off the excess with something like a wallpaper scraper. In a couple more minutes you'll need a Surfiorm plane. After maybe 10 minutes you have a very hard surface that will take work to sand. The point being that you don't want to glop it on and then expect to come back tomorrow and sand it down. If the Bondo ever does fall out you might consider just attaching something that will cover the holes and looks like it belongs there. |
#17
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]() |
#18
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Sid,
Metal hole plugs will snap into the holes and stay until you pry them out. Come in lots of sizes. Dave M. |
#19
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 3/30/2015 10:25 PM, sid wrote:
The previous owner of my home mounted curtains on the front entry door. I took them down because they looked so bad, but now I have empty screw holes where the screws were for the brackets. What would be the best product to use to patch those holes ? and that won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ? It's a heavy steal entry door. Any help is appreciated Thanks Bondo would work, but you'd have to buy too much to just fill a couple of holes. I'd get the type of epoxy that is on a ribbon. You cut off what you need, mix by kneading it, then fill the holes. http://www.mcmaster.com/#repair-epoxies/=wjrqza |
#20
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 3/30/2015 10:25 PM, sid wrote: The previous owner of my home mounted curtains on the front entry door. I took them down because they looked so bad, but now I have empty screw holes where the screws were for the brackets. What would be the best product to use to patch those holes ? and that won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ? It's a heavy steal entry door. Any help is appreciated Thanks Bondo would work, but you'd have to buy too much to just fill a couple of holes. I'd get the type of epoxy that is on a ribbon. You cut off what you need, mix by kneading it, then fill the holes. Best idea yet. dadiOH |
#21
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 11:01:50 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote: I'd get the type of epoxy that is on a ribbon. You cut off what you need, mix by kneading it, then fill the holes. Best idea yet. Good. How do you make the repair not look obvious? |
#22
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 12:35:09 -0700, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 11:01:50 -0400, "dadiOH" wrote: I'd get the type of epoxy that is on a ribbon. You cut off what you need, mix by kneading it, then fill the holes. Best idea yet. Good. How do you make the repair not look obvious? Sand and paint. Just like doing body work on a car, or patching drywall. Fill the hole with the epoxy, Knock off the high spots with sand paper. then add a bit of autobody glazing putty and feather it, then paint. |
#23
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 10:35:43 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
Bondo would work, but you'd have to buy too much to just fill a couple of holes. ....might look a Bondo glazing / spot putty. Sandable in 30 minutes. http://bondo.com/bondo-glazing-spot-putty-907.html |
#24
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 08:31:19 -0700, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 10:35:43 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote: Bondo would work, but you'd have to buy too much to just fill a couple of holes. ...might look a Bondo glazing / spot putty. Sandable in 30 minutes. http://bondo.com/bondo-glazing-spot-putty-907.html The new UV cure adhesives would be the "cat's meow" for that application (like the stuff the dentists use now instead of amalgam fillings) - like MasterBond or Loctite UV Cure adhesive |
#25
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]() |
#26
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 11:03:18 -0700, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 12:49:03 -0400, wrote: On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 08:31:19 -0700, Oren wrote: On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 10:35:43 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote: Bondo would work, but you'd have to buy too much to just fill a couple of holes. ...might look a Bondo glazing / spot putty. Sandable in 30 minutes. http://bondo.com/bondo-glazing-spot-putty-907.html The new UV cure adhesives would be the "cat's meow" for that application (like the stuff the dentists use now instead of amalgam fillings) - like MasterBond or Loctite UV Cure adhesive For giggles I'd try a hardening Permatex gasket sealer. Four dabs, cure, and paint. G Bondo works good on residential metal door dent & dimples. Metal work and Bondo is an art. The only problem with bondo is it is NOT waterproof. If moisture can get to the back it will eventually pop. That's why you fill the hole with brazing or fiberglass or filled epoxy first. On a door moisture should not be a serious problem, but by principal I only use "bondo" over a sealed surface. Fixes dents, but not holes. Rusty car body? Braze in patch or fill hole with fiber-glass/epoxy, then smooth it out with "bondo". I like the "lightweight" filler that uses "microballoons" instead of talc for filler. It is also more water resistant. If it is just a nice smooth small (like a #6) screw hole, the suggestion of a bit of gasket sealer might not be too far off. I'd try a paintable urethane or thermoplastic caulk dobbed in and smoothed with a wet finger. |
#27
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 3/30/2015 10:25 PM, sid wrote: The previous owner of my home mounted curtains on the front entry door. I took them down because they looked so bad, but now I have empty screw holes where the screws were for the brackets. What would be the best product to use to patch those holes ? and that won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ? It's a heavy steal entry door. Any help is appreciated Thanks Bondo would work, but you'd have to buy too much to just fill a couple of holes. I'd get the type of epoxy that is on a ribbon. You cut off what you need, mix by kneading it, then fill the holes. http://www.mcmaster.com/#repair-epoxies/=wjrqza Yabbut, he could do the same with JB weld, too |
#28
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "sid" wrote in message ... The previous owner of my home mounted curtains on the front entry door. I took them down because they looked so bad, but now I have empty screw holes where the screws were for the brackets. What would be the best product to use to patch those holes ? and that won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ? It's a heavy steal entry door. Any help is appreciated Thanks The holes may have a ridge from the previously installed screws. Sand the paint surface to rough it up and then just dimple the surface around the hole so that the hole is depressed below the surface of the door. You can use a ball peen hammer or a hammer with a punch to depress the surface around the hole. Then you can use Bondo or use an epoxy filler that you cut off a roll or ribbon and knead together then fill the hole to the surface. Any that oozes into the hole will help keep it in place just as plaster oozing between lath strips keeps it on the wall. I have used this method when we removed some venetian blinds from a metal door. The patches have lasted 10 years without any problems. |
#29
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Monday, March 30, 2015 at 10:25:21 PM UTC-4, sid wrote:
The previous owner of my home mounted curtains on the front entry door. I took them down because they looked so bad, Not suggeted yet is to put up curtains that do not look bad. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
How to drill a 1" hole in a steel-clad entry door | Home Repair | |||
Does anyone care to recommend a steel entry door? | Home Repair | |||
Steel entry door -- problem/questions | Home Repair | |||
Steel entry door | Home Repair | |||
Alternate method of drilling lockset holes in exterior insulated steel door | Home Repair |