What would you use to seal this crack in a manzanita walking stick?
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8736/1...0ee6cc2d_c.jpg

Would you just cover the crack with a wrap of leather string instead?

BTW, I tried Elmers white glue (with sawdust) which just shrank.

I tried Durham's Water Putty, but, putty is not a glue, and it just fell
out as the stick flexed over time (it's what my wife uses on hikes).

Note: The business end of the home-made manzanita walking stick worked
out much better than the hand-holding end.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8752/1...46f72bc2_c.jpg

For that tip, I bought a steel sleeve, & a rubber chair leg protector:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8689/1...97bb2f0e_c.jpg

The rubber doesn't last long; but the wife likes it (so I keep replacing
it). If there's a better idea than rubber chair leg protectors, let me
know.

Danny D. wrote:
What would you use to seal this crack in a manzanita walking stick?
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8736/1...0ee6cc2d_c.jpg

Would you just cover the crack with a wrap of leather string instead?

BTW, I tried Elmers white glue (with sawdust) which just shrank.

I tried Durham's Water Putty, but, putty is not a glue, and it just fell
out as the stick flexed over time (it's what my wife uses on hikes).

Note: The business end of the home-made manzanita walking stick worked
out much better than the hand-holding end.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8752/1...46f72bc2_c.jpg

For that tip, I bought a steel sleeve, & a rubber chair leg protector:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8689/1...97bb2f0e_c.jpg

The rubber doesn't last long; but the wife likes it (so I keep replacing
it). If there's a better idea than rubber chair leg protectors, let me
know.


I would use Epoxy with a half-drop of black dye mixed in. They make
crutch tips and walking cane tips. Take it to a drug store and see
which fits.

--
 GW Ross 

 Friends come and go. Enemies are 
 forever. 

Danny D. wrote:
What would you use to seal this crack in a manzanita walking stick?
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8736/1...0ee6cc2d_c.jpg

Would you just cover the crack with a wrap of leather string instead?

BTW, I tried Elmers white glue (with sawdust) which just shrank.

I tried Durham's Water Putty, but, putty is not a glue, and it just
fell out as the stick flexed over time (it's what my wife uses on
hikes).

Note: The business end of the home-made manzanita walking stick worked
out much better than the hand-holding end.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8752/1...46f72bc2_c.jpg

For that tip, I bought a steel sleeve, & a rubber chair leg protector:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8689/1...97bb2f0e_c.jpg

The rubber doesn't last long; but the wife likes it (so I keep
replacing it). If there's a better idea than rubber chair leg
protectors, let me know.

I'd go with the leather wrap , that end of the stick is not stable due to
the open end grain . It moves with temp/humidity changes . Wet the leather
before you wrap , as it dries it'll shrink .

--
Snag

G. Ross wrote, on Mon, 30 Mar 2015 17:04:03 -0400:

They make crutch tips and walking cane tips.

Are they a different rubber?

Danny D. wrote:
What would you use to seal this crack in a manzanita walking stick?
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8736/1...0ee6cc2d_c.jpg

Would you just cover the crack with a wrap of leather string instead?

BTW, I tried Elmers white glue (with sawdust) which just shrank.

I tried Durham's Water Putty, but, putty is not a glue, and it just
fell out as the stick flexed over time (it's what my wife uses on
hikes).

Note: The business end of the home-made manzanita walking stick worked
out much better than the hand-holding end.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8752/1...46f72bc2_c.jpg

For that tip, I bought a steel sleeve, & a rubber chair leg protector:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8689/1...97bb2f0e_c.jpg

The rubber doesn't last long; but the wife likes it (so I keep
replacing it). If there's a better idea than rubber chair leg
protectors, let me know

The first place I would look would be at the guys that sell walkers, canes,
etc. The medical supply guys. I'm sure they supply these ends, and I'd
hope they have at least a bit higher survivability rate. At the very least,
you'd know you're doing the best you can do.

I'm a bit confused by what the phrase "doesn't last long" means. That can
mean a lot of things. How long do we each consider long? I would
personally expect a walker or a cane end to last for at least a couple of
years, but I'm not as old as Swingman, so what the hell do I really know?

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote, on Mon, 30 Mar 2015 18:19:22 -0400:

I'm a bit confused by what the phrase "doesn't last long" means. That
can mean a lot of things. How long do we each consider long? I would
personally expect a walker or a cane end to last for at least a couple
of years, but I'm not as old as Swingman, so what the hell do I really
know?

The cane will last forever; but the rubber tips last, oh, about a month
each.

Danny D. wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote, on Mon, 30 Mar 2015 18:19:22 -0400:

I'm a bit confused by what the phrase "doesn't last long" means.
That can mean a lot of things. How long do we each consider long?
I would personally expect a walker or a cane end to last for at
least a couple of years, but I'm not as old as Swingman, so what the
hell do I really know?

The cane will last forever; but the rubber tips last, oh, about a
month each.

Good input. I had no idea how long the tip would last. The only tip I
really have any experience with... didn't last long enough!

--

-Mike-

"G. Ross" wrote in news:aOednakNkvemJ4TInZ2dnUU7-
:

Danny D. wrote:
What would you use to seal this crack in a manzanita walking stick?
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8736/1...0ee6cc2d_c.jpg

I would use Epoxy with a half-drop of black dye mixed in.

Likewise I'd use epoxy, but I'd mix sawdust in it to make
a putty (and I'd skip the dye, the sawdust will darken
the mixture).

John

"Danny D." wrote:

What would you use to seal this crack in a manzanita walking stick?

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8736/1...0ee6cc2d_c.jpg
----------------------------------------------
Epoxy and micro-balloons.

1) Open up the crack by removing ALL the failed items you have tried.
You need a clean rough surface.

2) Mix up some slow epoxy and wet out all the cleaned surfaces
with epoxy.

3) Take the remaining mixed epoxy and add micro-balloons mixing as
you go until you have a mixture the consistency of mayonnaise.
Using a paint mixing stick or equal, apply thickened epoxy as req'd to
fill crack completely allowing 10% overfill.

4) Allow to cure 2-3 days, then sand smooth.

5) Wet out a piece of leather and wrap the repair.

No suggestions for tip.

Have fun.

Lew

"John McCoy" wrote:

Likewise I'd use epoxy, but I'd mix sawdust in it to make
a putty (and I'd skip the dye, the sawdust will darken
the mixture).
--------------------------------------------------------
Why waste quality epoxy with garbage filler?

Micro-balloons, even in small quantity, are inexpensive.


Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote, on Mon, 30 Mar 2015 18:28:08 -0700:

4) Allow to cure 2-3 days, then sand smooth.

One problem I failed to mention is that sanding is out of the question
simply because the allure of the manzanita is the thin dark bark
(which the wife loves as it's one of her favorite woods).

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8747/1...e9574fa2_c.jpg

Googling what a "micro-balloon" is ... I see they're a fine glass powder.
http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazin...roballoons.htm

Can you buy them at the big box stores?

"Danny D." wrote:

Lew Hodgett wrote:

4) Allow to cure 2-3 days, then sand smooth.
---------------------------------------------------------
"Danny D." wrote:

One problem I failed to mention is that sanding is out of the
question
simply because the allure of the manzanita is the thin dark bark
(which the wife loves as it's one of her favorite woods).

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8747/1...e9574fa2_c.jpg
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sand off the excess epoxy putty, not the wood.

BTW, if you cover the repair with leather, you don't have tom be so
careful how you sand.
----------------------------------------------------
"Danny D." wrote:

Googling what a "micro-balloon" is ... I see they're a fine glass
powder.
http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazin...roballoons.htm

Can you buy them at the big box stores?
----------------------------------------------------------
Definitely NOT, you need to find a fiberglass supplier.

Got a boat builder in your area?

There used to be a couple of major yacht builders in Sweden.




Lew

Danny D. wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote, on Mon, 30 Mar 2015 18:19:22 -0400:

I'm a bit confused by what the phrase "doesn't last long" means.
That can mean a lot of things. How long do we each consider long?
I would personally expect a walker or a cane end to last for at
least a couple of years, but I'm not as old as Swingman, so what the
hell do I really know?

The cane will last forever; but the rubber tips last, oh, about a
month each.

When I made my cane, I used a brass ferrule and stuck in a rubber cork.
They last for 3-5 years but I don't go hiking

If you relace the steel tip with one that is, say, 1/2 to 3/4 longer you can
partially insert a rubber cork. It will last much longer, more rubber to
wear. You will probably have to whittle it slightly to skinny part of the
taper down.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

..

Goodwill, Salvation Army sometimes take in
perambulatory aids(including canes) that might
have parts you're looking for.

dadiOH wrote, on Tue, 31 Mar 2015 05:30:47 -0400:

When I made my cane, I used a brass ferrule and stuck in a rubber cork.

What I like about a rubber cork is, if I choose the size wisely, that I
can replace it with wine corks, which I have in abundance.

In article ,
"Danny D." wrote:

Mike Marlow wrote, on Mon, 30 Mar 2015 18:19:22 -0400:

I'm a bit confused by what the phrase "doesn't last long" means. That
can mean a lot of things. How long do we each consider long? I would
personally expect a walker or a cane end to last for at least a couple
of years, but I'm not as old as Swingman, so what the hell do I really
know?

The cane will last forever; but the rubber tips last, oh, about a month
each.

Danny D.-

You may find a tip that lasts longer, but it may have a problem slipping.

How does the tip fail? Does the metal sleeve cut through? If so, look
at smoothing the bottom of the sleeve and putting a fiber washer under
it as a buffer.

At the handle end, would something like a bicycle handlebar grip work?
What about another rubber tip without the metal sleeve?

Fred

Fred McKenzie wrote, on Tue, 31 Mar 2015 11:50:27 -0400:

You may find a tip that lasts longer, but it may have a problem
slipping.

I think a wine cork tip will fail within a week, but, the rubber cork
stoppers that we used in chemistry class may last longer, if I can find
them in cheap bulk quantities.

How does the tip fail? Does the metal sleeve cut through?

The metal sleeve is brand new (just put on Monday, only yesterday.)
What happened before was that the rubber tips wore thin from being used
on hikes by the wife. They holed in about a month (often less time than
that). I usually left them on for another few weeks, as they still
afforded some protection to the wood tip end for a while longer, even
when holed.

The metal tip was to prevent wear to the wood, as the stick still works
even as a wooden stick. The problem is that it will crack and break over
time, so, the point was to put the metal to protect the end, and to make
a uniform size for the rubber tip.

At the handle end, would something like a bicycle handlebar grip work?
What about another rubber tip without the metal sleeve?

A bicycle grip might work. The wife changes hand position, so, it's
probably best not to put any grip. The whole point was to enjoy the wood,
but, unfortunately, it cracked from being stored in the house, I guess
(very dry here in California these past few years).

"Danny D." writes:
dadiOH wrote, on Tue, 31 Mar 2015 05:30:47 -0400:

When I made my cane, I used a brass ferrule and stuck in a rubber cork.

What I like about a rubber cork is, if I choose the size wisely, that I
can replace it with wine corks, which I have in abundance.

Lee Valley part # 45K42.18 has been quite robust for me; over four
years of rough trails and concrete sidewalks and the rubber tip is
still ok.

Scott Lurndal wrote, on Tue, 31 Mar 2015 19:34:03 +0000:

Lee Valley part # 45K42.18 has been quite robust for me; over four years
of rough trails and concrete sidewalks and the rubber tip is still ok.

Is this the rubber tip?
http://www.leevalley.com/en/images/i.../45k4217s2.jpg

It is a bit big for the walking stick I made for the wife; but maybe I
can fit a steel tip on the end, which then would fit the rubber insert.

Danny D. wrote:
Scott Lurndal wrote, on Tue, 31 Mar 2015 19:34:03 +0000:

Lee Valley part # 45K42.18 has been quite robust for me; over four
years of rough trails and concrete sidewalks and the rubber tip is
still ok.

Is this the rubber tip?
http://www.leevalley.com/en/images/i.../45k4217s2.jpg

It is a bit big for the walking stick I made for the wife; but maybe I
can fit a steel tip on the end, which then would fit the rubber
insert.

Call me dense, but I don't get this. People use canes, crutches and all
sorts of things, everyday - that have rubber tips on them and they don't
wear out even after years of use. What's different about this particular
walking stick?

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote, on Tue, 31 Mar 2015 23:27:26 -0400:

Call me dense, but I don't get this. People use canes, crutches and all
sorts of things, everyday - that have rubber tips on them and they don't
wear out even after years of use. What's different about this
particular walking stick?

Good question. This walking stick is mostly used on the roadway, but, I
would think people who use canes use 'em on the roadway as well.

It gets maybe, oh, about three miles a day, which is only about 15 miles
a week (roughly, given she only walks weekdays with her friends), so it
lasts roughly 50 to 75 miles.

How long do canes last typically? Do they go a month at 50 to 75 miles?

Danny D. wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote, on Tue, 31 Mar 2015 23:27:26 -0400:

Call me dense, but I don't get this. People use canes, crutches and
all sorts of things, everyday - that have rubber tips on them and
they don't wear out even after years of use. What's different about
this particular walking stick?

Good question. This walking stick is mostly used on the roadway, but,
I would think people who use canes use 'em on the roadway as well.

It gets maybe, oh, about three miles a day, which is only about 15
miles a week (roughly, given she only walks weekdays with her
friends), so it lasts roughly 50 to 75 miles.

How long do canes last typically? Do they go a month at 50 to 75
miles?

I don't walk that much but it has been YEARS since I changed my cane tip.
But a factor as important as distance is the surface upon which it is being
used...carpet/wood is one thing, a road is another.

I once spent six weeks mapping the geological structure of a mountain in
Montana, lots of walking on both solid and loose stone surfaces. I shredded
my first pair of heavy sole work shoes and the second pair was half way
shot.

A road is not the same as a mountain but it is also not the same as "round
the house".

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:5519fa0f$0$44107
:


"John McCoy" wrote:

Likewise I'd use epoxy, but I'd mix sawdust in it to make
a putty (and I'd skip the dye, the sawdust will darken
the mixture).
--------------------------------------------------------
Why waste quality epoxy with garbage filler?

Micro-balloons, even in small quantity, are inexpensive.

True, but then you end up with epoxy-colored epoxy.
Using sawdust or sanding dust gives you a dark color
that generally looks better. And in this application
the strength of the result (which is probably better
with micro-balloons) isn't a concern.

John

My first choice would be a new cane. Maybe you could
use a heavy-duty band clamp. Maybe 5-minute epoxy.
Another possibility might be to epoxy in a steel shaft
coming up from the bottom.

But I'm not sure any repair is realistic. A cane is
something you need to depend on. One collapse could
be very dangerous. If it were me I'd sacrifice the
aesthetic appeal of the home made cane and just make
sure I had a strong one.

Danny D. wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote, on Tue, 31 Mar 2015 23:27:26 -0400:

Call me dense, but I don't get this. People use canes, crutches and
all sorts of things, everyday - that have rubber tips on them and
they don't wear out even after years of use. What's different about
this particular walking stick?

Good question. This walking stick is mostly used on the roadway, but,
I would think people who use canes use 'em on the roadway as well.

It gets maybe, oh, about three miles a day, which is only about 15
miles a week (roughly, given she only walks weekdays with her
friends), so it lasts roughly 50 to 75 miles.

How long do canes last typically? Do they go a month at 50 to 75
miles?

Hmmmmm... don't really know, but I would intuitively think so. I would
think that as long as it's not being dragged along the roadway as she walks,
that it should easily go that long and longer, but I could be wrong.
--

-Mike-

dadiOH wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 08:20:36 -0400:

I don't walk that much but it has been YEARS since I changed my cane
tip. But a factor as important as distance is the surface upon which it
is being used...carpet/wood is one thing, a road is another.

This road isn't paved, per se. It's small rocks pressed into tar. They
have a name for it, but it escapes me at the moment. When they retop it,
there are bits of tar gravel for months, all over the cars. So it's a
rough surface.

Mayayana wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 08:50:15 -0400:

If it were me I'd sacrifice the aesthetic appeal of the home made cane

But that's the whole point!

"Danny D." writes:
dadiOH wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 08:20:36 -0400:

I don't walk that much but it has been YEARS since I changed my cane
tip. But a factor as important as distance is the surface upon which it
is being used...carpet/wood is one thing, a road is another.

This road isn't paved, per se. It's small rocks pressed into tar. They
have a name for it, but it escapes me at the moment. When they retop it,
there are bits of tar gravel for months, all over the cars. So it's a
rough surface.


chipseal

It may be rough immediately after application, but within a few
days, it's as smooth as any other asphalt. I've generally not
had problems with tar on the car, either; at least in San Jose.

"Danny D." wrote in news:mfgs70$h2m$1@dont-
email.me:

Mayayana wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 08:50:15 -0400:

If it were me I'd sacrifice the aesthetic appeal of the home made cane

But that's the whole point!

Maybe put a tennis ball over the end when going for a long
walk on rough surfaces? Then it can be removed for indoor
use, or other situations where appearance is important.

John

Scott Lurndal wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 14:13:15 +0000:

chipseal

It may be rough immediately after application, but within a few days,
it's as smooth as any other asphalt. I've generally not had problems
with tar on the car, either; at least in San Jose

Yeah, I'm in the Santa Cruz mountains. Chip-and-seal is what they call
it, you're right. The airport & roads crew comes out every few years to
chip-and-seal it.

It is a bit rougher I'd say, than the asphalt on the main roads.

In article ,
"Danny D." wrote:

I think a wine cork tip will fail within a week, but, the rubber cork
stoppers that we used in chemistry class may last longer, if I can find
them in cheap bulk quantities.

Danny D.-

I found rubber stoppers at Ace Hardware next to their O-Rings.

Fred

On Wed, 1 Apr 2015 20:22:59 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

Scott Lurndal wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 14:13:15 +0000:

chipseal

It may be rough immediately after application, but within a few days,
it's as smooth as any other asphalt. I've generally not had problems
with tar on the car, either; at least in San Jose

Yeah, I'm in the Santa Cruz mountains. Chip-and-seal is what they call
it, you're right. The airport & roads crew comes out every few years to
chip-and-seal it.

It is a bit rougher I'd say, than the asphalt on the main roads.

Macadam is an east coast name.

On Mon, 30 Mar 2015 20:37:15 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

What would you use to seal this crack in a manzanita walking stick?

Do the same thing you do to seal your wife's crack

Sorry, I could not resist the urge to reply to this....

Baxter wrote:
Markem wrote in


Macadam is an east coast name.

And it's a street name in Portland, OR


Ha! Imagine a town like that... You ask "how do I get to XYZ", and you're
told to keep going until you get to the blacktop road...

--

-Mike-

We did the same in Santa Cruz mountains - we tried it ONCE with
the oil on top and went back to oil on the bottom! Our area
was all private roads as was Hwy 9 in the 50's.

Martin

On 4/1/2015 3:22 PM, Danny D. wrote:
Scott Lurndal wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 14:13:15 +0000:

chipseal

It may be rough immediately after application, but within a few days,
it's as smooth as any other asphalt. I've generally not had problems
with tar on the car, either; at least in San Jose

Yeah, I'm in the Santa Cruz mountains. Chip-and-seal is what they call
it, you're right. The airport & roads crew comes out every few years to
chip-and-seal it.

It is a bit rougher I'd say, than the asphalt on the main roads.

Macadam is a premix and is hot spread and rolled. Chip #1 and #2
is oil and spread of chip rock. Dry rock is spread on top or onto
the old surface with hot oil tar sprayed on top or on the pavement.
Martin

On 4/1/2015 4:44 PM, Markem wrote:
On Wed, 1 Apr 2015 20:22:59 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

Scott Lurndal wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 14:13:15 +0000:

chipseal

It may be rough immediately after application, but within a few days,
it's as smooth as any other asphalt. I've generally not had problems
with tar on the car, either; at least in San Jose

Yeah, I'm in the Santa Cruz mountains. Chip-and-seal is what they call
it, you're right. The airport & roads crew comes out every few years to
chip-and-seal it.

It is a bit rougher I'd say, than the asphalt on the main roads.

Macadam is an east coast name.

Martin Eastburn wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 22:51:54 -0500:

We did the same in Santa Cruz mountains - we tried it ONCE with the oil
on top and went back to oil on the bottom! Our area was all private
roads as was Hwy 9 in the 50's

What they seem to do here, in the Santa Cruz mountains, today, anyway, is
spread the gloop first, and then put the rocks on top, and then sweep the
loose rocks away.

The rocks ping against the cars for weeks thereafter, sometimes months,
depending on the road use.

Martin Eastburn wrote in news:s43Tw.145571
:

Macadam is a premix and is hot spread and rolled. Chip #1 and #2
is oil and spread of chip rock. Dry rock is spread on top or onto
the old surface with hot oil tar sprayed on top or on the pavement.

Technically, "macadam" is just a crushed rock surface. If
tar is added then it's "tarmac".

In modern usage, tho, "macadam" and "tarmac" have become
synonomous, since no-one uses plain crushed rock any more
(pneumatic tires tend to pull crushed rock apart, whereas
steel wheels and horseshoes compacted it further; hence the
replacement of macadam with tarmac following the advent of
the automobile).

John

I have crushed rock in my long driveway. All limestone. It flattens
out as the weight of tires crush it into place. The small chunks and
dust glue the mass together.

I can eat it up with my tractor tires, to much weight on thin ridges
that are designed to fit into the ground/mud.

I had granite in the front 600' - it was never put in correctly and
is just sinking into the mud. If a pre-mix of fine dust and crushed
granite is laid down first - sinks in and forms a solid base, then the
rock is added to that stable base.

My driveway is 1400' to the house. Another 12-14 around two buildings
and back out the the main driveway. That second section is slowly
taking place.

Martin

On 4/2/2015 9:44 AM, John McCoy wrote:
Martin Eastburn wrote in news:s43Tw.145571
:

Macadam is a premix and is hot spread and rolled. Chip #1 and #2
is oil and spread of chip rock. Dry rock is spread on top or onto
the old surface with hot oil tar sprayed on top or on the pavement.

Technically, "macadam" is just a crushed rock surface. If
tar is added then it's "tarmac".

In modern usage, tho, "macadam" and "tarmac" have become
synonomous, since no-one uses plain crushed rock any more
(pneumatic tires tend to pull crushed rock apart, whereas
steel wheels and horseshoes compacted it further; hence the
replacement of macadam with tarmac following the advent of
the automobile).

John