The CT area is forecasted to have a blizzrd, with the possible loss of
prime power.

My question: I have bought a gas powered generator, as a Back Up. I
will, later, install a secondary breaker panel - for use under
generator power. That seconadry panel would provide power to our key
circuiots, including the furnace.

In the interim, is there a way I can power our nat gas furnace
electronics, from our BU generator.

Hopefully we will not lose power???

On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 10:03:57 AM UTC-6, Dave C wrote:
The CT area is forecasted to have a blizzrd, with the possible loss of
prime power.

My question: I have bought a gas powered generator, as a Back Up. I
will, later, install a secondary breaker panel - for use under
generator power. That seconadry panel would provide power to our key
circuiots, including the furnace.

In the interim, is there a way I can power our nat gas furnace
electronics, from our BU generator.

Hopefully we will not lose power???

http://ricksdiy.com/general/wirefurnacetoagenerator/

On 01/26/2015 10:03 AM, Dave C wrote:
The CT area is forecasted to have a blizzrd, with the possible loss of
prime power.

My question: I have bought a gas powered generator, as a Back Up. I
will, later, install a secondary breaker panel - for use under
generator power. That seconadry panel would provide power to our key
circuiots, including the furnace.

In the interim, is there a way I can power our nat gas furnace
electronics, from our BU generator.

Hopefully we will not lose power???



Sure, just disconnect the AC power wires and with a cord plug it into
the generator output

On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 11:03:57 AM UTC-5, Dave C wrote:
The CT area is forecasted to have a blizzrd, with the possible loss of
prime power.

My question: I have bought a gas powered generator, as a Back Up. I
will, later, install a secondary breaker panel - for use under
generator power. That seconadry panel would provide power to our key
circuiots, including the furnace.

In the interim, is there a way I can power our nat gas furnace
electronics, from our BU generator.

Hopefully we will not lose power???

There are several ways. Ranging from code compliant to a suicide
cord. Given that it's already snowing, the code compliant method
window has likely closed. I've used the latter method for an
emergency. But then I know what I'm doing.

After this event, instead of a secondary panel, I'd look into
a lockout kit for your existing panel. Basically, you put an
new breaker into the first slot of your panel, move whatever was
there somewhere else. That breaker goes to an inlet. You can put
the inlet outside, where the generator would be used or put it
at the panel and use an extension cord. There is
a lockout slide that prevents that breaker and the main breaker
from being closed at the same time. Check for your panel to see
if one is available from the manufacturer. If so, get it. If
not, there is an aftermarket supplier:

http://www.interlockkit.com/

The manufacturer supplied one is 100% code compliant. The latter
is likely acceptable, but some AHJs might have a beef.

Why anyone would put in another panel, move circuits over, etc,
when using a manual type generator is beyond me. The above
approach is low cost and allows you to run anything in the
house, manage the load at the panel, etc.

On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 11:17:26 AM UTC-5, bob_villa wrote:
On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 10:03:57 AM UTC-6, Dave C wrote:
The CT area is forecasted to have a blizzrd, with the possible loss of
prime power.

My question: I have bought a gas powered generator, as a Back Up. I
will, later, install a secondary breaker panel - for use under
generator power. That seconadry panel would provide power to our key
circuiots, including the furnace.

In the interim, is there a way I can power our nat gas furnace
electronics, from our BU generator.

Hopefully we will not lose power???

http://ricksdiy.com/general/wirefurnacetoagenerator/

What Rick outlines there is not code compliant. We've been through
this many times here. Code says that the only appliances that can
be used on a cord and plug are ones that are designed to be used that
way to allow servicing. Furnaces don't meet that test. There isn't
an install manual for a furnace I've ever seen that says you can put
it on a plug and cord of your choosing.

It's certainly not the worst thing I've ever seen and if he wants to
do that for the storm, I don't see a problem with that. There are other
people who have done it. Just that if he wants a long term solution,
expects to pull a permit, which is probably required in CT,
have it inspected, it may not pass. He could go ask the inspector.
It's also likely to get flagged on a future home inspection for sale,
etc. The correct way of doing it at the furnace is with a transfer
switch and inlet.

On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 10:28:46 AM UTC-6, trader_4 wrote:

What Rick outlines there is not code compliant.

Safe, fast, easy...it may not be code but I have heard (yes, anecdotal) it has passed inspections.

On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 11:03:57 AM UTC-5, Dave C wrote:
The CT area is forecasted to have a blizzrd, with the possible loss of
prime power.

My question: I have bought a gas powered generator, as a Back Up. I
will, later, install a secondary breaker panel - for use under
generator power. That seconadry panel would provide power to our key
circuiots, including the furnace.

In the interim, is there a way I can power our nat gas furnace
electronics, from our BU generator.

Hopefully we will not lose power???

Before I had my generator wired into the breaker box (with a shut-out of course) I had the furnace on a plug system. I put an outlet into the circuit box above the furnace and put a plug on the cord coming up from the furnace.. When the power went out, I switched from the house current plug to the generator plug right next to it. Not up to code or high tech, but it kept us warm through several power outages.

Paul

On 1/26/2015 11:03 AM, Dave C wrote:
The CT area is forecasted to have a blizzrd, with the possible loss of
prime power.

My question: I have bought a gas powered generator, as a Back Up. I
will, later, install a secondary breaker panel - for use under
generator power. That seconadry panel would provide power to our key
circuiots, including the furnace.

In the interim, is there a way I can power our nat gas furnace
electronics, from our BU generator.

Hopefully we will not lose power???

Yes, there is.

I agree, best wishes not losing power.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

trader_4 wrote in news:1079ab5c-256f-4167-8200-
:

What Rick outlines there is not code compliant.


Stick the code up your ass.

Per Dave C:
I
will, later, install a secondary breaker panel - for use under
generator power. That seconadry panel would provide power to our key
circuiots, including the furnace.

How big is the gennie and how much current does your house "Cruise" on?
Peak demands?

If the gennie is small enough, consider a "Smart" transfer
switch/secondary panel that can shut down circuit "A" temporarily while
circuit "B" needs enough to otherwise overload the gennie.

Our house cruises on 800-1200 watts and runs comfortably on a 2KW
generator with a smart switch in control - as long as we delegate making
coffee, running the toaster and such to little propane stoves on the
patio.

The smart switch kicks in when older refrigerators with very high
starting surges need to start up. When that happens, lights go out in
the rec room and the computer equipment runs on UPS backup for about
five minutes.

We recently got a second 2KW generator that can run in parallel with the
first - more for redundancy than the added capacity - but when both are
online we can make toast, make coffee, and run the big microwave oven.
--
Pete Cresswell

On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 1:03:58 PM UTC-5, Zak W wrote:
trader_4 wrote in news:1079ab5c-256f-4167-8200-
:

What Rick outlines there is not code compliant.


Stick the code up your ass.

What exactly is your problem? I didn't tell him what he should
or shouldn't do. But whatever he decides, I don't see the issue
with him knowing what code is, what the implications are, etc.
He can use a suicide cord. He can wire up something permanent.
But if he's going to do the latter at the furnace, it's better
he know the code and then make a rational decision, rather than
just go buy stuff and wing it.

On 1/26/2015 11:03 AM, Dave C wrote:
The CT area is forecasted to have a blizzrd, with the possible loss of
prime power.

My question: I have bought a gas powered generator, as a Back Up. I
will, later, install a secondary breaker panel - for use under
generator power. That seconadry panel would provide power to our key
circuiots, including the furnace.

In the interim, is there a way I can power our nat gas furnace
electronics, from our BU generator.

Hopefully we will not lose power???


I've done it with a hot-water boiler while I lived in Alaska. My little
Honda 350W generator of the time was sufficient to run the circulator pump
and the control stuff on the boiler. I just disconnected the power feed to
the boiler, took an old extension cord and cut off the receptacle end and
wired that to the wires to the boiler using wire nuts. Ran the extension
cord outside the garage and plugged it into the generator and I was good to
go. The house was pretty well insulated so I just ran the generator long
enough to heat the house to 75-degrees and shut it down until it got down
to 65-degrees and repeated the process until the power poles got put back
up. I didn't even lose any of my tropical fish since I threw a heavy
comforter over the aquarium to keep some of the heat in.

On 1/26/2015 11:39 AM, bob_villa wrote:
On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 10:28:46 AM UTC-6, trader_4 wrote:

What Rick outlines there is not code compliant.

Safe, fast, easy...it may not be code but I have heard (yes, anecdotal) it has passed inspections.


Think neighbor did it the dumb way:

http://diy.stackexchange.com/questio...ctrical-system

He later got a transfer panel which is the way I did it.

On 1/26/2015 8:28 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 11:17:26 AM UTC-5, bob_villa wrote:
On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 10:03:57 AM UTC-6, Dave C wrote:
The CT area is forecasted to have a blizzrd, with the possible loss of
prime power.

My question: I have bought a gas powered generator, as a Back Up. I
will, later, install a secondary breaker panel - for use under
generator power. That seconadry panel would provide power to our key
circuiots, including the furnace.

In the interim, is there a way I can power our nat gas furnace
electronics, from our BU generator.

Hopefully we will not lose power???

http://ricksdiy.com/general/wirefurnacetoagenerator/

What Rick outlines there is not code compliant. We've been through
this many times here. Code says that the only appliances that can
be used on a cord and plug are ones that are designed to be used that
way to allow servicing. Furnaces don't meet that test. There isn't
an install manual for a furnace I've ever seen that says you can put
it on a plug and cord of your choosing.

That was my interpretation of the code.
So, I went down to the permit office and asked the inspector.
His response was that he'd never heard of such restriction and it
would be no problem. I would feel better if he'd acknowledged the
code statements before telling me it was no problem.

It's certainly not the worst thing I've ever seen and if he wants to
do that for the storm, I don't see a problem with that. There are other
people who have done it. Just that if he wants a long term solution,
expects to pull a permit, which is probably required in CT,
have it inspected, it may not pass. He could go ask the inspector.
It's also likely to get flagged on a future home inspection for sale,
etc. The correct way of doing it at the furnace is with a transfer
switch and inlet.

On Mon, 26 Jan 2015 15:05:33 -0500, Frank
wrote:

On 1/26/2015 11:39 AM, bob_villa wrote:
On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 10:28:46 AM UTC-6, trader_4 wrote:

What Rick outlines there is not code compliant.

Safe, fast, easy...it may not be code but I have heard (yes, anecdotal) it has passed inspections.


Think neighbor did it the dumb way:

http://diy.stackexchange.com/questio...ctrical-system

He later got a transfer panel which is the way I did it.
Well, when I had my 2500 watt generator I added a receptacle to both
the furnace and the freezer/refrigerator circuits and put the two
circuits on one 220 volt pull-out (fuse panel). In case of a power
failure I could pull the fuse block and plug the generator into one or
the other with the suicide cord.

On Mon, 26 Jan 2015 15:38:00 -0800, mike wrote:

On 1/26/2015 8:28 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 11:17:26 AM UTC-5, bob_villa wrote:
On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 10:03:57 AM UTC-6, Dave C wrote:
The CT area is forecasted to have a blizzrd, with the possible loss of
prime power.

My question: I have bought a gas powered generator, as a Back Up. I
will, later, install a secondary breaker panel - for use under
generator power. That seconadry panel would provide power to our key
circuiots, including the furnace.

In the interim, is there a way I can power our nat gas furnace
electronics, from our BU generator.

Hopefully we will not lose power???

http://ricksdiy.com/general/wirefurnacetoagenerator/

What Rick outlines there is not code compliant. We've been through
this many times here. Code says that the only appliances that can
be used on a cord and plug are ones that are designed to be used that
way to allow servicing. Furnaces don't meet that test. There isn't
an install manual for a furnace I've ever seen that says you can put
it on a plug and cord of your choosing.

There is a way around it. Hardwire the furnace to a "disconnect
device" - which is just a junction box with a cord mounted with a
strain relief, which plugs into a SINGLE outlet, not a duplex - and
you are code compliant. A twist lock lug is recommended. The single
outlet is crucial to making it compliant as the furnace MUST be on a
dedicated circuit.

Another way to do it is with a 3 way switch, hooking the furnace Live
connection to the center terminal, and line to one of the switched
terminals, and a line to the generator "port" on the other switched
terminal, with the neutral and the ground "T"d (joined with wire nuts)
in the box. (not neutral to ground, but furnace to panel to gen port
for both neutral and ground)

That was my interpretation of the code.
So, I went down to the permit office and asked the inspector.
His response was that he'd never heard of such restriction and it
would be no problem. I would feel better if he'd acknowledged the
code statements before telling me it was no problem.

It's certainly not the worst thing I've ever seen and if he wants to
do that for the storm, I don't see a problem with that. There are other
people who have done it. Just that if he wants a long term solution,
expects to pull a permit, which is probably required in CT,
have it inspected, it may not pass. He could go ask the inspector.
It's also likely to get flagged on a future home inspection for sale,
etc. The correct way of doing it at the furnace is with a transfer
switch and inlet.

On 1/26/2015 6:38 PM, mike wrote:
That was my interpretation of the code.
So, I went down to the permit office and asked the inspector.
His response was that he'd never heard of such restriction and it
would be no problem. I would feel better if he'd acknowledged the
code statements before telling me it was no problem.

Inspector told me same thing.

His only recommendation was to use quality materials meaning don't buy the 19 cent plugs and receptacles at McHarbor Freight.

"mike" wrote in message
...
On 1/26/2015 8:28 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 11:17:26 AM UTC-5, bob_villa wrote:
On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 10:03:57 AM UTC-6, Dave C wrote:
The CT area is forecasted to have a blizzrd, with the possible loss of
prime power.

My question: I have bought a gas powered generator, as a Back Up. I
will, later, install a secondary breaker panel - for use under
generator power. That seconadry panel would provide power to our key
circuiots, including the furnace.

In the interim, is there a way I can power our nat gas furnace
electronics, from our BU generator.

Hopefully we will not lose power???

http://ricksdiy.com/general/wirefurnacetoagenerator/

What Rick outlines there is not code compliant. We've been through
this many times here. Code says that the only appliances that can
be used on a cord and plug are ones that are designed to be used that
way to allow servicing. Furnaces don't meet that test. There isn't
an install manual for a furnace I've ever seen that says you can put
it on a plug and cord of your choosing.

That was my interpretation of the code.
So, I went down to the permit office and asked the inspector.
His response was that he'd never heard of such restriction and it
would be no problem. I would feel better if he'd acknowledged the
code statements before telling me it was no problem.


I'd feel better if people in this thread would quote the actual code
language they say allows or prohibits.

On 01/26/2015 07:54 PM, wrote:

Well, when I had my 2500 watt generator I added a receptacle to both
the furnace and the freezer/refrigerator circuits and put the two
circuits on one 220 volt pull-out (fuse panel). In case of a power
failure I could pull the fuse block and plug the generator into one or
the other with the suicide cord.


Suicide cord? Really?

It's often easier to do it right.
Installed a Siemens interlock and 40A breaker for less than $60.

On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 8:02:07 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 26 Jan 2015 15:38:00 -0800, mike wrote:

On 1/26/2015 8:28 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 11:17:26 AM UTC-5, bob_villa wrote:
On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 10:03:57 AM UTC-6, Dave C wrote:
The CT area is forecasted to have a blizzrd, with the possible loss of
prime power.

My question: I have bought a gas powered generator, as a Back Up. I
will, later, install a secondary breaker panel - for use under
generator power. That seconadry panel would provide power to our key
circuiots, including the furnace.

In the interim, is there a way I can power our nat gas furnace
electronics, from our BU generator.

Hopefully we will not lose power???

http://ricksdiy.com/general/wirefurnacetoagenerator/

What Rick outlines there is not code compliant. We've been through
this many times here. Code says that the only appliances that can
be used on a cord and plug are ones that are designed to be used that
way to allow servicing. Furnaces don't meet that test. There isn't
an install manual for a furnace I've ever seen that says you can put
it on a plug and cord of your choosing.

There is a way around it. Hardwire the furnace to a "disconnect
device" - which is just a junction box with a cord mounted with a
strain relief, which plugs into a SINGLE outlet, not a duplex - and
you are code compliant.

A twist lock lug is recommended. The single
outlet is crucial to making it compliant as the furnace MUST be on a
dedicated circuit.

Another way to do it is with a 3 way switch, hooking the furnace Live
connection to the center terminal, and line to one of the switched
terminals, and a line to the generator "port" on the other switched
terminal, with the neutral and the ground "T"d (joined with wire nuts)
in the box. (not neutral to ground, but furnace to panel to gen port
for both neutral and ground)

If by port you mean an inlet, then I agree, that is code compliant.
Of course with less work you could install an interlock, breaker and
the same inlet on the main panel and power not only the furnace, but
anything else in the house too.

On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 8:57:38 PM UTC-5, Pico Rico wrote:
"mike" wrote in message
...
On 1/26/2015 8:28 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 11:17:26 AM UTC-5, bob_villa wrote:
On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 10:03:57 AM UTC-6, Dave C wrote:
The CT area is forecasted to have a blizzrd, with the possible loss of
prime power.

My question: I have bought a gas powered generator, as a Back Up. I
will, later, install a secondary breaker panel - for use under
generator power. That seconadry panel would provide power to our key
circuiots, including the furnace.

In the interim, is there a way I can power our nat gas furnace
electronics, from our BU generator.

Hopefully we will not lose power???

http://ricksdiy.com/general/wirefurnacetoagenerator/

What Rick outlines there is not code compliant. We've been through
this many times here. Code says that the only appliances that can
be used on a cord and plug are ones that are designed to be used that
way to allow servicing. Furnaces don't meet that test. There isn't
an install manual for a furnace I've ever seen that says you can put
it on a plug and cord of your choosing.

That was my interpretation of the code.
So, I went down to the permit office and asked the inspector.
His response was that he'd never heard of such restriction and it
would be no problem. I would feel better if he'd acknowledged the
code statements before telling me it was no problem.


I'd feel better if people in this thread would quote the actual code
language they say allows or prohibits.

Here's a good discussion of the subject:

http://ecmweb.com/code-basics/flexib...d-fixture-wire

This is the most pertinent part:

*Appliances where the fastening means and mechanical connections are specifically designed to permit ready removal for maintenance and repair, and the appliance is intended or identified for flexible cord connections [422.16], but only when used with attachment plugs [400.7(B)].

It's hard to argue that a furnace is designed to be readily removable for
maintenance. Even worse, it's clearly not intended or identified for use
with a cord and plug.

But, as has been reported here and in the past, some AHJs are OK with it.

On Tue, 27 Jan 2015 04:57:31 -0500, Mik Dundee wrote:

On 01/26/2015 07:54 PM, wrote:

Well, when I had my 2500 watt generator I added a receptacle to both
the furnace and the freezer/refrigerator circuits and put the two
circuits on one 220 volt pull-out (fuse panel). In case of a power
failure I could pull the fuse block and plug the generator into one or
the other with the suicide cord.


Suicide cord? Really?

It's often easier to do it right.
Installed a Siemens interlock and 40A breaker for less than $60.
Fr a 2500 watt generator? To operate only the furnace or the 'fridge?

Se my other (safer) solution - 3 way switsh

On Tuesday, January 27, 2015 at 12:58:40 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tue, 27 Jan 2015 04:57:31 -0500, Mik Dundee wrote:

On 01/26/2015 07:54 PM, wrote:

Well, when I had my 2500 watt generator I added a receptacle to both
the furnace and the freezer/refrigerator circuits and put the two
circuits on one 220 volt pull-out (fuse panel). In case of a power
failure I could pull the fuse block and plug the generator into one or
the other with the suicide cord.


Suicide cord? Really?

It's often easier to do it right.
Installed a Siemens interlock and 40A breaker for less than $60.
Fr a 2500 watt generator? To operate only the furnace or the 'fridge?

Se my other (safer) solution - 3 way switsh

Who says you have to be limited to a 2500 watt generator?
And even if you are, the work to install the breaker and interlock is
the same, or less than installing a transfer switch at the furnace.
And with the interlock at the panel, you can power anything you want
in the house, within the 2500 watt limit, or whatever the generator
capability is.

You can power up the commonly used outlets, so you can plug in your
phone, watch TV. You can power up the bathrooms, so you can see to pee.
You can power up all the light circuits in the whole house, and just
turn the lights on that you need, when you're in that area. Power
up the fridge, so your beer stays cold. Power up the garage doors, so
you can open them. I'd say that beats just powering the furnace and
screwing around with extension cords. One extension cord to an inlet
at the panel, power anything you choose.

On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 10:03:57 AM UTC-6, Dave C wrote:
The CT area is forecasted to have a blizzrd, with the possible loss of
prime power.

My question: I have bought a gas powered generator, as a Back Up. I
will, later, install a secondary breaker panel - for use under
generator power. That seconadry panel would provide power to our key
circuiots, including the furnace.

In the interim, is there a way I can power our nat gas furnace
electronics, from our BU generator.

Hopefully we will not lose power???

Let's keep it simple and not a bitch match...we want to keep the kids warm and the pipes from freezing, K? Put a salvaged power cord on your furnace...this is an emergency and you don't have time to wire the entire house!

Zak W wrote:
trader_4 wrote in
news:1079ab5c-256f-4167-8200- :

What Rick outlines there is not code compliant.


Stick the code up your ass.

And when his insurance refuses to cover his house burning down?

Dave C posted for all of us...



The CT area is forecasted to have a blizzrd, with the possible loss of
prime power.

My question: I have bought a gas powered generator, as a Back Up. I
will, later, install a secondary breaker panel - for use under
generator power. That seconadry panel would provide power to our key
circuiots, including the furnace.

In the interim, is there a way I can power our nat gas furnace
electronics, from our BU generator.

Hopefully we will not lose power???

This is what; the fifth time this has been asked this month? DAGS

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*

Per Tekkie®:
Hopefully we will not lose power???

This is what; the fifth time this has been asked this month? DAGS

The thread-starter was on 1/26.... They could have that cutover switch
installed by now.
--
Pete Cresswell

On 1/29/2015 8:05 PM, Bob F wrote:
Zak W wrote:
trader_4 wrote in
news:1079ab5c-256f-4167-8200- :

What Rick outlines there is not code compliant.


Stick the code up your ass.

And when his insurance refuses to cover his house burning down?



Yah, that's when the insurance company sticks their dick in the policy holder's ass.

On 01/27/2015 01:14 PM, trader_4 wrote:
Power
up the fridge, so your beer stays cold.

#1 reason to install a power inlet and interlock breaker.

On 1/30/2015 4:01 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per Tekkie®:
Hopefully we will not lose power???

This is what; the fifth time this has been asked this month? DAGS

The thread-starter was on 1/26.... They could have that cutover switch
installed by now.

If it has not been done, try this: http://www.interlockkit.com/ It is a
mechanical interlock for your existing panel. It allows you to choose
which circuits to power or not power. And, if you google "breaker panel
transfer interlock" there seems to be others. Nice thing is that you
don't have to rewire everything.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
http://www.avast.com

On Saturday, January 31, 2015 at 1:32:42 PM UTC-5, Art Todesco wrote:
On 1/30/2015 4:01 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per Tekkie®:
Hopefully we will not lose power???

This is what; the fifth time this has been asked this month? DAGS

The thread-starter was on 1/26.... They could have that cutover switch
installed by now.

If it has not been done, try this: http://www.interlockkit.com/ It is a
mechanical interlock for your existing panel. It allows you to choose
which circuits to power or not power. And, if you google "breaker panel
transfer interlock" there seems to be others. Nice thing is that you
don't have to rewire everything.



I suggested that from day one, but we never heard back from the OP.
My first choice would be one from the panel manufacturer though, because
there are no issues about it being listed, code compliant when used
with that main panel, etc. If not available, then the Interlockit would
be my second choice.

The key to the approach is exactly what you said, which is with the slide,
an additional breaker and an inlet, you can power anything
in the house, manage the loads from the main panel. It's not much
different work than putting in a double throw switch arrangement at the
furnace, but the resulting benefits sure are.

Feeding the house is nice, with a safe interlock of course.
The only down side i have seen is that it is hard to
Know when the grid power comes back on.
You have to keep an eye on the neighbors house.
Anybody have a solution to that one?

Mark

On 2/1/2015 8:16 AM, wrote:
Feeding the house is nice, with a safe interlock of course.
The only down side i have seen is that it is hard to
Know when the grid power comes back on.
You have to keep an eye on the neighbors house.
Anybody have a solution to that one?

Mark


I have a transfer box which isolates my generator from grid power feed
line and just feeds circuits on it. When grid power comes back on,
lights or other stuff on lines not covered by the generator will come
back on.

On Sunday, February 1, 2015 at 8:16:38 AM UTC-5, wrote:
Feeding the house is nice, with a safe interlock of course.
The only down side i have seen is that it is hard to
Know when the grid power comes back on.
You have to keep an eye on the neighbors house.
Anybody have a solution to that one?

Mark

The power company here, when you call to report an outage, let's
you put in a phone # or text where they will notify you when
it's back on. Couple times I used it, it worked, and it's great
because you can be anywhere, but I'm sure it's far from perfect.
They also give
estimates of how long until it's restored, and that's been in the
ballpark too. I can also see a street light, have used that too,
but you have to actively check.

wrote in message
...
Feeding the house is nice, with a safe interlock of course.
The only down side i have seen is that it is hard to
Know when the grid power comes back on.
You have to keep an eye on the neighbors house.
Anybody have a solution to that one?

Mark

I had an electrician add a fused switch directly to the utility lines,
before the transfer switch. When power goes out and we work the transfer
switch, we turn on the "utility power indicator light" and keep an eye on it
for when it comes on with utility power.

We used a "plug fuse box cover":
http://www.grainger.com/product/BUSSMANN-Box-Cover-1DH49?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/1DH49_AS01?$smthumb$

On Sun, 1 Feb 2015 05:16:34 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Feeding the house is nice, with a safe interlock of course.
The only down side i have seen is that it is hard to
Know when the grid power comes back on.
You have to keep an eye on the neighbors house.
Anybody have a solution to that one?

Mark
There are powerline monitors made for exactly that purpose. Reliance
electric "powerback" THP108. About $40 at Home Despot.

On Sunday, February 1, 2015 at 3:32:16 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 1 Feb 2015 05:16:34 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Feeding the house is nice, with a safe interlock of course.
The only down side i have seen is that it is hard to
Know when the grid power comes back on.
You have to keep an eye on the neighbors house.
Anybody have a solution to that one?

Mark
There are powerline monitors made for exactly that purpose. Reliance
electric "powerback" THP108. About $40 at Home Despot.

That looks like a great find. The only drawback I see is that to
install it, you have to wrap the sensing wire around one of the hot
legs which is right before the main breaker and always hot, unless
you call the utility to cut off power at the meter.

One thing I don't understand. In the install instructions,
after it's installed, it says to:


1 - Turn the PowerBack on/off switch to on, the alarm will sound

2 - Turn the main breaker to the off position, the alarm will cease.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdf...b1bda64a15.pdf



How is #2 possible? With the main breaker on or off, there is still
voltage present on the service before the main breaker. I don't
see why the main breaker would have an effect. And even more bizarre,
the whole purpose of the alarm is to sound when power is present and
the main breaker is off. Am I missing something or do they have
something screwed up here?

"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Sunday, February 1, 2015 at 3:32:16 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 1 Feb 2015 05:16:34 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Feeding the house is nice, with a safe interlock of course.
The only down side i have seen is that it is hard to
Know when the grid power comes back on.
You have to keep an eye on the neighbors house.
Anybody have a solution to that one?

Mark
There are powerline monitors made for exactly that purpose. Reliance
electric "powerback" THP108. About $40 at Home Despot.

That looks like a great find. The only drawback I see is that to
install it, you have to wrap the sensing wire around one of the hot
legs which is right before the main breaker and always hot, unless
you call the utility to cut off power at the meter.

Just be careful. Insulated wires are insulated.


One thing I don't understand. In the install instructions,
after it's installed, it says to:


1 - Turn the PowerBack on/off switch to on, the alarm will sound

2 - Turn the main breaker to the off position, the alarm will cease.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdf...b1bda64a15.pdf



How is #2 possible? With the main breaker on or off, there is still
voltage present on the service before the main breaker. I don't
see why the main breaker would have an effect. And even more bizarre,
the whole purpose of the alarm is to sound when power is present and
the main breaker is off. Am I missing something or do they have
something screwed up here?


"When the main circuit breaker in a generator-ready load center, manual
transfer panel or other panel, must be turned OFF during a power outage, in
order for a standby generator to supply power to emergency circuits, the
PowerBACK will sound a 100dB audible alert as soon as utility power is
restored."
http://www.readbag.com/reliancecontr...ll-sheet-final


Poorly written, but they must mean turn off whatever removes utility power
from your panel. I would think that would be the transfer switch. Or it
could be a main switch/breaker that will not be fed by your generator.

I still like my solution better.

On 2/1/2015 4:43 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, February 1, 2015 at 3:32:16 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 1 Feb 2015 05:16:34 -0800 (PST), wrote:


One thing I don't understand. In the install instructions,
after it's installed, it says to:


1 - Turn the PowerBack on/off switch to on, the alarm will sound

2 - Turn the main breaker to the off position, the alarm will cease.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdf...b1bda64a15.pdf



How is #2 possible? With the main breaker on or off, there is still
voltage present on the service before the main breaker. I don't
see why the main breaker would have an effect. And even more bizarre,
the whole purpose of the alarm is to sound when power is present and
the main breaker is off. Am I missing something or do they have
something screwed up here?

I think the testing protocol works because the antenna is wrapped around
one of the hot wires and is also grounded. As the antenna detects
current FLOW when the utility power is on line, you "fool" it into
believing the line is dead by opening the main breaker. (Remember, this
is not for an interlock type setup, but rather a transfer panel)

Since with the transfer panel you will only be energizing certain
circuits, the other breakers are closed as is the Main when the power
goes out. When utility power is restored, there will be flow that is
detected by the antenna and...

Neat little device.

"Unquestionably Confused" wrote in message
...
On 2/1/2015 4:43 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, February 1, 2015 at 3:32:16 PM UTC-5,
wrote:
On Sun, 1 Feb 2015 05:16:34 -0800 (PST), wrote:


One thing I don't understand. In the install instructions,
after it's installed, it says to:


1 - Turn the PowerBack on/off switch to on, the alarm will sound

2 - Turn the main breaker to the off position, the alarm will cease.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdf...b1bda64a15.pdf



How is #2 possible? With the main breaker on or off, there is still
voltage present on the service before the main breaker. I don't
see why the main breaker would have an effect. And even more bizarre,
the whole purpose of the alarm is to sound when power is present and
the main breaker is off. Am I missing something or do they have
something screwed up here?

I think the testing protocol works because the antenna is wrapped around
one of the hot wires and is also grounded. As the antenna detects current
FLOW when the utility power is on line, you "fool" it into believing the
line is dead by opening the main breaker. (Remember, this is not for an
interlock type setup, but rather a transfer panel)

Since with the transfer panel you will only be energizing certain
circuits, the other breakers are closed as is the Main when the power goes
out. When utility power is restored, there will be flow that is detected
by the antenna and...

I don't think so. I think it detects the presence of voltage, not current,
regardless of what it says. Otherwise it would be of no use to many
transfer switches which disconnect the utility completely and put the
generator in its place.

wait: see, I was right!

"When the power indicator wire senses an electromagnetic field from a
voltage at the supply wire, the power indicator provides an appropriate
audio and/or visual alert signaling that primary power is available at the
load center."

patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO2&Sect2=HITOFF&p=1&u=%2Fnetahtml%2 FPTO%2Fsearch-bool.html&r=17&f=G&l=50&co1=AND&d=PTXT&s1="relianc e+controls".ASNM.&OS=AN/"reliance+controls"&RS=AN/"reliance+controls"