see also
https://customer.honeywell.com/resou...0s/70-3709.pdf

Mark

On Tue, 25 Nov 2014 07:44:57 -0800 (PST), wrote:

see also
https://customer.honeywell.com/resou...0s/70-3709.pdf

Mark

Thanks for the two urls. I'll reply after I see them. This is what it
says now.

"Our site is currently undergoing planned maintenance.

Starting Thursday 9PM EST through Sunday (Sept. 12th - 15th), due to the
Annual US and Canada Trade price adjustment.

Any orders may be placed by email or fax. Emergency orders can be called
into Customer Care during regular business hours.

The site will be available again on Monday, September 16th. "


I wonder what year that means.

And what is the Annual US and Canada Trade price adjustment, and why
does it take 3 days?

Grin.

On Tuesday, November 25, 2014 10:00:43 AM UTC-5, wrote:
here is a diagram of the control unit wiring
https://customer.honeywell.com/resou.../GIF/m1559.gif

if you are manually pressing down the relay to start the burner THEN YOU ARE DEFEATING ONE OF THE SAFTEY FEATURES.

I would do this only in an emergency and only if you were there to monitor the burner the entire time it is running and turn it OFF if the flame goes out. One purpose of the saftey is to prevent a situation where the burner continuous to run when the flame is out. This pumps oil that is not burned into the box. The oil is not burned and accumulates in the box. If an exceesive amount of oil accumulates in the box, the next time the burner is started the ignition can set off ALL THE ACCUMULATED OIL AT ONCE. You can understand why this is bad. Do not defeat the saftey.


That was what I said a few days ago. IDK what exact control he has,
what he's doing, etc, but it sounded like he was probably bypassing at
least some of the safeties. Without carefully analyzing what energizes
the relay, you don't know that some of the safeties rely on opening that
rely to stop the furnace.

Like you say, I would do it for testing, emergency while monitoring it.
But not for an extended period, unmonitored, etc. An oil deliver is
$750+ isn't it? I thought he said he had a spare control, that he
could buy one for $75, etc. I don't understand all the fiddling.




The controller uses the CAD cell (electric eye) on the left to verify the flame. If the flame is out, the saftey switch heater get energized and after a time delay the saftey switch turns off and this turns off the current to your realy which is K1 on the diagram.

If yoru realy won't pull in at the start, something is wrong with the saftey switch. The current to initially pull in K1 flows thgh the saftey switch heater. Thus something may be wrong with the saftey, and it prevents the controller from starting. It is a fail safe desgn and if you press in the relay by hand, you are defeating the fail safe.

Mark





Mark