Any recommendations for ordinary 48" overhead shop lights? I've had bad luck with the cheap ones. Thanks.

On 10/30/2014 11:27 PM, Davej wrote:
Any recommendations for ordinary 48" overhead
shop lights? I've had bad luck with the cheap
ones. Thanks.


I'd open the phone book yellow pages under
"electrical supply" and start calling around.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 10/30/14, 11:27 PM, Davej wrote:
Any recommendations for ordinary 48" overhead shop lights? I've had
bad luck with the cheap ones. Thanks.

Decades ago, I changed from incandescent to F40 T12 lights in my shop.
It wasn't heated, and they were dim in winter. I put them in
transparent plastic tubes that were required in kitchens. By keeping the
bulbs a little warmer, the tubes made them brighter in cold weather. The
tubes also provided some protection against breakage.

If I were getting lights for a shop that wasn't kept at room
temperature, I'd look into their performance over my expected
temperature range.

As the CW tubes aged, I replaced them with CWX. There weren't as many
lumens, but I could see colors better. Depending on what you do in a
shop, good color rendition can be an advantage.

I don't know the strengths and weaknesses of T12s, T8s, T5s,various
CFLs, and LEDs.

Hi Dave,

Any recommendations for ordinary 48" overhead shop lights?
I've had bad luck with the cheap ones.

I installed four fixtures in my garage/shop back in 2001. Each fixture
holds two T8 bulbs and has electronic ballast.

T8 bulbs are thinner and work better in cold temperatures.

The electronic ballast eliminates flickering and lets the light turn on
immediately.

I chose lights with covers in case I hit the fixture with a board or
something. I've only done it once or twice, but I'm glad the bulbs weren't
exposed.

Thirteen years later and I'm still on the original bulbs.

I bought mine from Home Depot back in 2001. I'm pretty sure they were GE
brand, but I don't see them listed on their web site anymore. I'm sure they
would sell something similar today. The good fixtures will cost about $50
each.

Good luck,

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

On 10/30/2014 11:27 PM, Davej wrote:
Any recommendations for ordinary 48" overhead shop lights? I've had bad luck with the cheap ones. Thanks.


As you read, the gist of the fixture is the ballast. You can purchase a
fairly cheap fixture from the big home stores but swapping with a good
Advance, GE, Philips electronic ballast will do wonders and last for
many years.

The difference between T8 and T12 is wattage, mercury, efficiency,
longer lasting and light output all favoring the T8, though, light
output isn't extremely noticeable.

The first thing I did with the HD fixture was replaced the ballast. That
was many years ago and the lamps are still doing well.

On Sat, 01 Nov 2014 18:06:24 -0400, Meanie
wrote:

On 10/30/2014 11:27 PM, Davej wrote:
Any recommendations for ordinary 48" overhead shop lights? I've had bad luck with the cheap ones. Thanks.


As you read, the gist of the fixture is the ballast. You can purchase a
fairly cheap fixture from the big home stores but swapping with a good
Advance, GE, Philips electronic ballast will do wonders and last for
many years.

The difference between T8 and T12 is wattage, mercury, efficiency,
longer lasting and light output all favoring the T8, though, light
output isn't extremely noticeable.

The first thing I did with the HD fixture was replaced the ballast. That
was many years ago and the lamps are still doing well.
And make REAL SURE yiu ground the darn things. Ungrounded they don't
start worth a hoot - particularly in cold and damp/

On Saturday, November 1, 2014 5:06:31 PM UTC-5, SBH wrote:
On 10/30/2014 11:27 PM, Davej wrote:
Any recommendations for ordinary 48" overhead shop lights? I've had bad luck with the cheap ones. Thanks.


As you read, the gist of the fixture is the ballast. You can purchase a
fairly cheap fixture from the big home stores but swapping with a good
Advance, GE, Philips electronic ballast will do wonders and last for
many years.

The difference between T8 and T12 is wattage, mercury, efficiency,
longer lasting and light output all favoring the T8, though, light
output isn't extremely noticeable.

The first thing I did with the HD fixture was replaced the ballast. That
was many years ago and the lamps are still doing well.


This makes me wonder if I should just replace the ballast in all the units that I now consider unreliable?

On 11/1/14, 11:37 PM, Davej wrote:
On Saturday, November 1, 2014 5:06:31 PM UTC-5, SBH wrote:
On 10/30/2014 11:27 PM, Davej wrote:
Any recommendations for ordinary 48" overhead shop lights? I've had bad luck with the cheap ones. Thanks.


As you read, the gist of the fixture is the ballast. You can purchase a
fairly cheap fixture from the big home stores but swapping with a good
Advance, GE, Philips electronic ballast will do wonders and last for
many years.

The difference between T8 and T12 is wattage, mercury, efficiency,
longer lasting and light output all favoring the T8, though, light
output isn't extremely noticeable.

The first thing I did with the HD fixture was replaced the ballast. That
was many years ago and the lamps are still doing well.


This makes me wonder if I should just replace the ballast in all the units that I now consider unreliable?

It worked for me. IIRC, a good ballast could cost more than a whole
cheap fixture, but I was pleased. Maybe good ballasts are cheaper than
they used to be.

On 11/1/2014 11:37 PM, Davej wrote:
As you read, the gist of the fixture is the ballast. You can purchase a
fairly cheap fixture from the big home stores but swapping with a good
Advance, GE, Philips electronic ballast will do wonders and last for
many years.


This makes me wonder if I should just replace the
ballast in all the units that I now consider
unreliable?


That's based on price, warranty, convenience,
skill set. And the condition of the old fixtures.

If you're a skilled electrician, and if the
ballasts are 2/3 the price of a whole fixture,
and if there is a warranty on the ballasts, and
if, if, if....

-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 11/2/2014 1:15 AM, J Burns wrote:


It worked for me. IIRC, a good ballast could cost more than a whole
cheap fixture, but I was pleased. Maybe good ballasts are cheaper than
they used to be.

Ballasts costs were higher years ago prior to the universal ballasts of
today. Retailers and distributors had to maintain more shelf space for
voltage specific magnetic ballasts. Since universal ballasts offer the
voltage range 110 to 277, also enabling them to handle several
configurations, it's more efficient for retailer's shelf space. Though,
you can still find voltage specific ballast, they will disappear soon
enough.

On Saturday, November 1, 2014 11:37:18 PM UTC-4, Davej wrote:
On Saturday, November 1, 2014 5:06:31 PM UTC-5, SBH wrote:
On 10/30/2014 11:27 PM, Davej wrote:
Any recommendations for ordinary 48" overhead shop lights? I've had bad luck with the cheap ones. Thanks.


As you read, the gist of the fixture is the ballast. You can purchase a
fairly cheap fixture from the big home stores but swapping with a good
Advance, GE, Philips electronic ballast will do wonders and last for
many years.

The difference between T8 and T12 is wattage, mercury, efficiency,
longer lasting and light output all favoring the T8, though, light
output isn't extremely noticeable.

The first thing I did with the HD fixture was replaced the ballast. That
was many years ago and the lamps are still doing well.


This makes me wonder if I should just replace the ballast in all the units that I now consider unreliable?

Why not, if the structure of them is sturdy and unrusted?

Really, all there is to the things functionally is the ballast, some wiring, and the keystones. If everything else is good a new ballast and possibly new tubes should fix you up for a while. Replacement keystones are also available.

nate

"N8N" wrote in message
...

This makes me wonder if I should just replace the ballast in all the
units that I now consider unreliable?

Why not, if the structure of them is sturdy and unrusted?

Really, all there is to the things functionally is the ballast, some
wiring, and the keystones. If everything else is good a new ballast and
possibly new tubes should fix you up for a while. Replacement keystones
are also available.


That is what I do, just replace the ballast in my $ 10 shop lights with
some $ 10 or $ 12 ballasts. Beats hanging new ones. I have also bought
some inexpensive shop lights , taken the ballasts out and put them in the
old ones that are already in place in places that I don't use the lights
very much.

About all that can go wrong is the ballast and maybe the keystones unless
you pench the wiring while puting the covers back on.
..




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My education must be very meager, what is a "keystone" in a shoplight?

On Sun, 2 Nov 2014 19:47:01 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

My education must be very meager, what is a "keystone" in a shoplight?
It is the little end of the fixture where the bi-pin connectors on
the tube fit.

wrote in message
...
My education must be very meager, what is a "keystone" in a shoplight?

Most often called called tombstones. They are the connectors (sockets) at
the end of the light that the pins of the tubes go in.



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On 10/30/2014 11:27 PM, Davej wrote:
Any recommendations for ordinary 48" overhead shop lights? I've had bad luck with the cheap ones. Thanks.


Jay leno is switching to LED:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SeROsV_yePs

Thanks, one more piece of info to try to remember.

" writes:
My education must be very meager, what is a "keystone" in a shoplight?

More commonly called a tombstone, due to the shape. It's the holders
on either end of the bulb.

Davej posted for all of us...



Any recommendations for ordinary 48" overhead shop lights? I've had bad luck with the cheap ones. Thanks.

I read the threads about the ballasts. Does anyone install the quick
disconnects while doing it?

--
Tekkie

"Tekkie®" wrote in message
...
Davej posted for all of us...



Any recommendations for ordinary 48" overhead shop lights? I've had bad
luck with the cheap ones. Thanks.

I read the threads about the ballasts. Does anyone install the quick
disconnects while doing it?


I doubt quick disconnects. Most just use wire nuts on the replacement
ballasts. When working I bet I installed hudreds of ballasts and always
used wire nuts. Most of the ballasts were on 277 volt circuits.
They are not normally changed often enough for quick disconnects.



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wrote in message
...
On Wed, 5 Nov 2014 18:37:23 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


"Tekkie®" wrote in message
...
I read the threads about the ballasts. Does anyone install the quick
disconnects while doing it?


I doubt quick disconnects. Most just use wire nuts on the replacement
ballasts. When working I bet I installed hudreds of ballasts and always
used wire nuts. Most of the ballasts were on 277 volt circuits.
They are not normally changed often enough for quick disconnects.

It is the code now in commercial and has been for the last few cycles

410.130(G)
(G) Disconnecting Means.
(1) General. In indoor locations other than dwellings and associated
accessory structures, fluorescent luminaires that utilize double-ended
lamps and contain ballast(s) that can be serviced in place shall have
a disconnecting means either internal or external to each luminaire.
The line side terminals of the disconnecting means shall be guarded.

I think we are talking about two differant things. YOur disconnect is
manily a switch to cut off the power to the light to make it safe and my
thinking is a multiconnection plug where the ballast can be changed out just
by disconnecting that plug instead of the 6 or 8 wires of the ballast.
I wish that local disconnect had been in effect at the place I worked at.
The building was very large and some if it was 6 floors tall. We often had
to hunt for the breakers to turn off the lights to change out the ballast.
We did put inline fuse holders in the ones we changed out so the next time
we could kill the power. Also most of the lights were on a 277 volt circuit
that ment you had to cut off 3 breakers to totally kill the power as often
only one neutral was used. Break the neutral and youcould have power fed
through on the other two legs.



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posted for all of us...



On Wed, 5 Nov 2014 18:37:23 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


"Tekkie®" wrote in message
...
Davej posted for all of us...



Any recommendations for ordinary 48" overhead shop lights? I've had bad
luck with the cheap ones. Thanks.

I read the threads about the ballasts. Does anyone install the quick
disconnects while doing it?


I doubt quick disconnects. Most just use wire nuts on the replacement
ballasts. When working I bet I installed hudreds of ballasts and always
used wire nuts. Most of the ballasts were on 277 volt circuits.
They are not normally changed often enough for quick disconnects.

It is the code now in commercial and has been for the last few cycles

410.130(G)
(G) Disconnecting Means.
(1) General. In indoor locations other than dwellings and associated
accessory structures, fluorescent luminaires that utilize double-ended
lamps and contain ballast(s) that can be serviced in place shall have
a disconnecting means either internal or external to each luminaire.
The line side terminals of the disconnecting means shall be guarded.

So Greg, my takeaway (new lingo) is that in dwellings they are not required..
Would you do it in your own home?

--
Tekkie

On Monday, November 3, 2014 4:20:17 AM UTC-6, Qwerty Uiop wrote:
On 10/30/2014 11:27 PM, Davej wrote:
Any recommendations for ordinary 48" overhead shop lights? I've had bad luck with the cheap ones. Thanks.


Jay leno is switching to LED:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SeROsV_yePs

With 60 Watt LEDS at $20 +, it is not worth it.

You can get 10 CFLs for that price.

Most are rated for 5 + years.

One problem with CFL's is that they don't last in humid environments or in enclosed spaces where heat is not disappated.