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Default Capillary thermmostat vs. Bi-metal ones

Hi,
While fixing our PTAC wall mount Carrier unit in sun room, I wondered I
can replace
SPDT capillary thermostat for heat/cool running on 220V AC. Unit contains
6KW rated heating element/heat pump. Is it possible to replace original
capillary thermostat with line voltage SPDT thermostat? Tired of replacing
original capillary thermostat at 70.00 a pop. Heating switch contact
keeps burning
up, p/n HH22UC075. Or I wonder if there is heavier Carrier substitute
part no.?
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Default Capillary thermmostat vs. Bi-metal ones

On Sunday, October 12, 2014 12:17:26 AM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:
Hi,

While fixing our PTAC wall mount Carrier unit in sun room, I wondered I

can replace

SPDT capillary thermostat for heat/cool running on 220V AC. Unit contains

6KW rated heating element/heat pump. Is it possible to replace original

capillary thermostat with line voltage SPDT thermostat? Tired of replacing

original capillary thermostat at 70.00 a pop. Heating switch contact

keeps burning

up, p/n HH22UC075. Or I wonder if there is heavier Carrier substitute

part no.?


Not sure what the question really is. If the replacement thermostat has
at least the rating of the original, it will work electrically. The rest
is if it's a different type, where does it sense the air? If the old one
has a capillary probe that sits in the air and the new one doesn't then
it may behave differently. There is also the issue of will it fit physically.
And finally, I guess the issue of modifying a UL listed AC, if you want
to get technical. I wonder if the reason they burn out is that the compressor
is starting to go and is harder to start? Maybe time for a hard start kit.
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Default Capillary thermmostat vs. Bi-metal ones

trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, October 12, 2014 12:17:26 AM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:
Hi,

While fixing our PTAC wall mount Carrier unit in sun room, I wondered I

can replace

SPDT capillary thermostat for heat/cool running on 220V AC. Unit contains

6KW rated heating element/heat pump. Is it possible to replace original

capillary thermostat with line voltage SPDT thermostat? Tired of replacing

original capillary thermostat at 70.00 a pop. Heating switch contact

keeps burning

up, p/n HH22UC075. Or I wonder if there is heavier Carrier substitute

part no.?


Not sure what the question really is. If the replacement thermostat has
at least the rating of the original, it will work electrically. The rest
is if it's a different type, where does it sense the air? If the old one
has a capillary probe that sits in the air and the new one doesn't then
it may behave differently. There is also the issue of will it fit physically.
And finally, I guess the issue of modifying a UL listed AC, if you want
to get technical. I wonder if the reason they burn out is that the compressor
is starting to go and is harder to start? Maybe time for a hard start kit.

Hi,
When weather gets cold heat pump does not come on,but heater is on.
Compressor (cool) side contact is always good. Maybe I should put in
spark suppressor across heat contact then... Was just thinking.
Capillary probe is sensing intake room air temp near the filter. . I was
thinking about extending 3 wires for the thermostat to wall mounted line
voltage type NO/NC SPDT type 'stat/ Actually another model of this unit
has this remote 'stat option kit. Maybe that is what I need, come to
think of it. Just exercising my brain for now.
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Default Capillary thermmostat vs. Bi-metal ones

Please enlighten me, what is a capillary thermostat? Do you mean a mercury bottle thermostat?
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Default Capillary thermmostat vs. Bi-metal ones

On 10/12/2014 10:43 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Hi,
When weather gets cold heat pump does not come on,but heater is on.
Compressor (cool) side contact is always good. Maybe I should put in
spark suppressor across heat contact then... Was just thinking.
Capillary probe is sensing intake room air temp near the filter. . I was
thinking about extending 3 wires for the thermostat to wall mounted line
voltage type NO/NC SPDT type 'stat/ Actually another model of this unit
has this remote 'stat option kit. Maybe that is what I need, come to
think of it. Just exercising my brain for now.


What volts and amps do you need?
And it the stat for heating?

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Default Capillary thermmostat vs. Bi-metal ones

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/12/2014 10:43 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Hi,
When weather gets cold heat pump does not come on,but heater is on.
Compressor (cool) side contact is always good. Maybe I should put in
spark suppressor across heat contact then... Was just thinking.
Capillary probe is sensing intake room air temp near the filter. . I was
thinking about extending 3 wires for the thermostat to wall mounted line
voltage type NO/NC SPDT type 'stat/ Actually another model of this unit
has this remote 'stat option kit. Maybe that is what I need, come to
think of it. Just exercising my brain for now.


What volts and amps do you need?
And it the stat for heating?

Hi,
This is Carrier PTAC wall mount they quit producing in 2009.
Heat pump and 6KW heat strip combo for heat/cool. Works well
for our sun room separate from house HVAC also Carrier.
Replacing thermostat is PITA, has to take cover off, control panel off,etc.
3 connectors. I was thing about extending those 3 wires to a higher wall
position
and use line voltage 'stat which is easier to get. Also I'm thinking
about snubber
across heat contact to protect the contatcts from burning(which is the
issue) Snubber is
easy to jury rig. A resister and capacitor in series.
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Default Capillary thermmostat vs. Bi-metal ones


Ed - Thanx - I've seen the capillary types, never thought about how they worked. Everything I have ever had to work on was the standard bimetallic type.
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