A couple years ago we had a brand new fiberglass entry door system
installed - along with a Weiser latchset and deadbolt with a disk lock
- one of those you can rekey any time without pulling the cyl. My
daughter pulled the key out when it was not in the "remove key"
position and the lock would not work or reset. Found that you do NOT
want a key that is basically wedge shaped - you want the end to have
bigger "teeth" than the base.

Anyway, after we replaced it with a new one, it has worked well - but
it has always been a bit "notchy" - sometimes difficult to get the
bolt to extend.
I took it apart yesterdsay, and when out of the door, everything
worked smoothly. Ends up there is a little "toggle" on the bolt
assembly that was hitting the wood in the door - I grabbed a bg round
file and opened up some space above so the toggle didn't hit any
more, and now it is smooth as silk.

Just thought I'd pass it on in case someone else has the same problem.

On Fri, 15 Aug 2014 20:57:23 -0400, wrote:

A couple years ago we had a brand new fiberglass entry door system
installed - along with a Weiser latchset and deadbolt with a disk lock
- one of those you can rekey any time without pulling the cyl. My
daughter pulled the key out when it was not in the "remove key"
position and the lock would not work or reset. Found that you do NOT
want a key that is basically wedge shaped - you want the end to have
bigger "teeth" than the base.

Anyway, after we replaced it with a new one, it has worked well - but
it has always been a bit "notchy" - sometimes difficult to get the
bolt to extend.
I took it apart yesterdsay, and when out of the door, everything
worked smoothly. Ends up there is a little "toggle" on the bolt
assembly that was hitting the wood in the door - I grabbed a bg round
file and opened up some space above so the toggle didn't hit any
more, and now it is smooth as silk.

Just thought I'd pass it on in case someone else has the same problem.

Nice you fixed it. Some of these lockset's work best with the
original key being used from the beginning, the original, not a
secondary that has been cut from an old previously cut key. Each one
gets worse for accuracy.

I mean use an original key - not one that is old or has a poor cut
over time. Save at least one original key for better accuracy. Don't
work off an original generation cut key, cut two or three time - but
an original one.

On Fri, 15 Aug 2014 18:34:11 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Fri, 15 Aug 2014 20:57:23 -0400, wrote:

A couple years ago we had a brand new fiberglass entry door system
installed - along with a Weiser latchset and deadbolt with a disk lock
- one of those you can rekey any time without pulling the cyl. My
daughter pulled the key out when it was not in the "remove key"
position and the lock would not work or reset. Found that you do NOT
want a key that is basically wedge shaped - you want the end to have
bigger "teeth" than the base.

Anyway, after we replaced it with a new one, it has worked well - but
it has always been a bit "notchy" - sometimes difficult to get the
bolt to extend.
I took it apart yesterdsay, and when out of the door, everything
worked smoothly. Ends up there is a little "toggle" on the bolt
assembly that was hitting the wood in the door - I grabbed a bg round
file and opened up some space above so the toggle didn't hit any
more, and now it is smooth as silk.

Just thought I'd pass it on in case someone else has the same problem.

Nice you fixed it. Some of these lockset's work best with the
original key being used from the beginning, the original, not a
secondary that has been cut from an old previously cut key. Each one
gets worse for accuracy.

I mean use an original key - not one that is old or has a poor cut
over time. Save at least one original key for better accuracy. Don't
work off an original generation cut key, cut two or three time - but
an original one.
The beauty of these "resettable" cyls is if the key wears, as long as
it still operates the cyl, you can "reset" the cyl to match the worn
key, just like you can reset it to a totally different key. You insrt
the "original" key, turn it 1/4 turn to the right, insert the seset
pin, pull out the key, insert the new key, and turn 1/ turn left then
back to center- and it is reset to the new key - or the worn one..

For my car and truck keys, i ALWAYS keep one virtually un-used
original and use keys cut from it. Back when I was Service Manager at
the Toyota Dealer we cut keys from code - every key cut WAS a new
key.- not a Dupe.

Oren wrote:
On Fri, 15 Aug 2014 20:57:23 -0400, wrote:

A couple years ago we had a brand new fiberglass entry door system
installed - along with a Weiser latchset and deadbolt with a disk lock
- one of those you can rekey any time without pulling the cyl. My
daughter pulled the key out when it was not in the "remove key"
position and the lock would not work or reset. Found that you do NOT
want a key that is basically wedge shaped - you want the end to have
bigger "teeth" than the base.

Anyway, after we replaced it with a new one, it has worked well - but
it has always been a bit "notchy" - sometimes difficult to get the
bolt to extend.
I took it apart yesterdsay, and when out of the door, everything
worked smoothly. Ends up there is a little "toggle" on the bolt
assembly that was hitting the wood in the door - I grabbed a bg round
file and opened up some space above so the toggle didn't hit any
more, and now it is smooth as silk.

Just thought I'd pass it on in case someone else has the same problem.

Nice you fixed it. Some of these lockset's work best with the
original key being used from the beginning, the original, not a
secondary that has been cut from an old previously cut key. Each one
gets worse for accuracy.

I mean use an original key - not one that is old or has a poor cut
over time. Save at least one original key for better accuracy. Don't
work off an original generation cut key, cut two or three time - but
an original one.

Hi,
Key cutting is computerized now. The fancy new ones duplicate original
very accurately nowadays.

On 8/15/2014 8:57 PM, wrote:
A couple years ago we had a brand new fiberglass entry door system
installed - along with a Weiser latchset and deadbolt with a disk lock
- one of those you can rekey any time without pulling the cyl. My
daughter pulled the key out when it was not in the "remove key"
position and the lock would not work or reset. Found that you do NOT
want a key that is basically wedge shaped - you want the end to have
bigger "teeth" than the base.

Anyway, after we replaced it with a new one, it has worked well - but
it has always been a bit "notchy" - sometimes difficult to get the
bolt to extend.
I took it apart yesterdsay, and when out of the door, everything
worked smoothly. Ends up there is a little "toggle" on the bolt
assembly that was hitting the wood in the door - I grabbed a bg round
file and opened up some space above so the toggle didn't hit any
more, and now it is smooth as silk.

Just thought I'd pass it on in case someone else has the same problem.

Thanks for the update. I've worked on a lot of Weiser
products. I think the manufacture tolerances are
terrible, and the over all quality is very poor.

Now they have user change locks... I trust those even
less. Kwikset was tolerable quality (my trailer home
is protected by Kwikset locks). The user change Kwikset,
I've changed a couple but I don't like them nor trust
them.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

People should be aware that when they buy a new Weiser or Schlage lock for their house, the keys that come with it will be stamped with a 5 digit code. Those 5 digits represent the depth of the key cuts in the order they occur on the key profile. Any locksmith can reproduce that key knowing that 5 digit code; he doesn't have to have the key itself to make a new original key for the lock. I expect the same is probably true for other locks, like Kwikset, but I don't have experience with Kwikset or other lock manufacturers to know for sure.

So, if you buy a new lock, take the time to document the key code so that if you ever lose the keys to that lock, you can have new keys made without having the keys themselves for the locksmith to duplicate.

Also, the keys that come with new cars will often have what's called a "blind" code stamped into them. This is a key code that requires a special chart or computer program to translate the blind code into the correct key profile. The charts and programs to decipher a blind code are only available to the car manufacturer's dealerships and professional locksmiths, and they will ask for proof of ownership from anyone that wants them to decipher a blind code.

When that happens I just use a 1/4 inch wide wood chisel to cut a slot for the deadbolt toggle to move in.

On 8/16/2014 9:01 AM, nestork wrote:

People should be aware that when they buy a new Weiser or Schlage lock
for their house, the keys that come with it will be stamped with a 5
digit code. Those 5 digits represent the depth of the key cuts in the
order they occur on the key profile. Any locksmith can reproduce that
key knowing that 5 digit code; he doesn't have to have the key itself to
make a new original key for the lock. I expect the same is probably
true for other locks, like Kwikset, but I don't have experience with
Kwikset or other lock manufacturers to know for sure.

So, if you buy a new lock, take the time to document the key code so
that if you ever lose the keys to that lock, you can have new keys made
without having the keys themselves for the locksmith to duplicate.

Also, the keys that come with new cars will often have what's called a
"blind" code stamped into them. This is a key code that requires a
special chart or computer program to translate the blind code into the
correct key profile. The charts and programs to decipher a blind code
are only available to the car manufacturer's dealerships and
professional locksmiths, and they will ask for proof of ownership from
anyone that wants them to decipher a blind code.

Kwikset doesn't stamp the depths into original
keys. But some Kwikset clone companies do. I've
also seen bitting on Yale keys. Some other brands,
Sargent comes to mind. It's a good idea to make
a record of the code, as you say.

This is also useful when occupant is locked out
of the house, and the ### locks don't want to
pick. Some times I can get a relative on the
phone, and get the key number from the relative's
key.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Sat, 16 Aug 2014 08:59:01 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 8/15/2014 8:57 PM, wrote:
A couple years ago we had a brand new fiberglass entry door system
installed - along with a Weiser latchset and deadbolt with a disk lock
- one of those you can rekey any time without pulling the cyl. My
daughter pulled the key out when it was not in the "remove key"
position and the lock would not work or reset. Found that you do NOT
want a key that is basically wedge shaped - you want the end to have
bigger "teeth" than the base.

Anyway, after we replaced it with a new one, it has worked well - but
it has always been a bit "notchy" - sometimes difficult to get the
bolt to extend.
I took it apart yesterdsay, and when out of the door, everything
worked smoothly. Ends up there is a little "toggle" on the bolt
assembly that was hitting the wood in the door - I grabbed a bg round
file and opened up some space above so the toggle didn't hit any
more, and now it is smooth as silk.

Just thought I'd pass it on in case someone else has the same problem.

Thanks for the update. I've worked on a lot of Weiser
products. I think the manufacture tolerances are
terrible, and the over all quality is very poor.

Now they have user change locks... I trust those even
less. Kwikset was tolerable quality (my trailer home
is protected by Kwikset locks). The user change Kwikset,
I've changed a couple but I don't like them nor trust
them.
Nothing about what I experienced indicades poor quality or bad
manufacturing tolerances - only a design that does not work with a
simple drilled hole for the bolt and minimum size holesaw for the lock
unit.. Since releiving the wood to allow clearance above the lock the
4 year old deadbolt is as smooth as it could possibly be.

On 8/16/2014 6:17 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 16 Aug 2014 08:59:01 -0400, Stormin Mormon
Thanks for the update. I've worked on a lot of Weiser
products. I think the manufacture tolerances are
terrible, and the over all quality is very poor.

Nothing about what I experienced indicades poor quality or bad
manufacturing tolerances - only a design that does not work with a
simple drilled hole for the bolt and minimum size holesaw for the lock
unit.. Since releiving the wood to allow clearance above the lock the
4 year old deadbolt is as smooth as it could possibly be.


I worked with Weiser in the eighties and nineties. I'm
guessing they haven't improved much.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Sat, 16 Aug 2014 18:43:52 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 8/16/2014 6:17 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 16 Aug 2014 08:59:01 -0400, Stormin Mormon
Thanks for the update. I've worked on a lot of Weiser
products. I think the manufacture tolerances are
terrible, and the over all quality is very poor.

Nothing about what I experienced indicades poor quality or bad
manufacturing tolerances - only a design that does not work with a
simple drilled hole for the bolt and minimum size holesaw for the lock
unit.. Since releiving the wood to allow clearance above the lock the
4 year old deadbolt is as smooth as it could possibly be.


I worked with Weiser in the eighties and nineties. I'm
guessing they haven't improved much.
Perhaps the rest are all so much worse that the Weiser is as good as
(or better than) the rest.

On 8/16/2014 8:28 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 16 Aug 2014 18:43:52 -0400, Stormin Mormon
I worked with Weiser in the eighties and nineties. I'm
guessing they haven't improved much.
Perhaps the rest are all so much worse that the Weiser is as good as
(or better than) the rest.


I've worked on locks made by Weiser, Weiserbolt,
Kwikset, Schlage Baldwin, Corbin, Corbin Cabinet,
Chicago, Fort, Ace, Dexter, Russwin, Best, Yale,
National, Segal, Ilco, Lori, PLS, US Lock, Uscan,
and a variety of off brands from Taiwan. There
is a chance I might have some understanding of
what I say.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..