One side of my house is overlook an Alleway (cars can drive). I want to build a fence similar to this one (click on the link below please)

http://tinypic.com/r/24n2yja/8

My house is in similar situation of the picture above (instead of the green, my house is there).

Of course the fence is going to be build on my property side. I want a protection fence like the one in the picture because I am afraid in the Winter cars might slip and hit my house.

I started working and dig to install the Posts. There will be 6-8 post and the distance between them is 6' feet. My question, should I install the first post (put the gravel first and then concorete) and then wait to dry and then try to install pther post so I can use the first one as a bench mark when I try to make sure they all post are layed on the same level and the hight are the same. I thought it is good idea to do that. What do you think

Thanks a lot.

leza wang wrote:
One side of my house is overlook an Alleway (cars can drive). I want
to build a fence similar to this one (click on the link below please)

http://tinypic.com/r/24n2yja/8

My house is in similar situation of the picture above (instead of the
green, my house is there).

Of course the fence is going to be build on my property side. I want
a protection fence like the one in the picture because I am afraid in
the Winter cars might slip and hit my house.

I started working and dig to install the Posts. There will be 6-8
post and the distance between them is 6' feet. My question, should I
install the first post (put the gravel first and then concorete) and
then wait to dry and then try to install pther post so I can use the
first one as a bench mark when I try to make sure they all post are
layed on the same level and the hight are the same. I thought it is
good idea to do that. What do you think

Thanks a lot.

I think you should drive a pair of pegs and stretch a string to establish
your line . Use a level to plumb your posts , set 'em a bit high and cut to
height after mounting the top stringer . Cut the tops at an angle to shed
water or they'll rot . And your concrete needs to be finished slightly above
ground and sloped away from the post for the same reason .

--
Snag

leza wang wrote:
One side of my house is overlook an Alleway (cars can drive). I want to build a fence similar to this one (click on the link below please)

http://tinypic.com/r/24n2yja/8

My house is in similar situation of the picture above (instead of the green, my house is there).

Of course the fence is going to be build on my property side. I want a protection fence like the one in the picture because I am afraid in the Winter cars might slip and hit my house.

I started working and dig to install the Posts. There will be 6-8 post and the distance between them is 6' feet. My question, should I install the first post (put the gravel first and then concorete) and then wait to dry and then try to install pther post so I can use the first one as a bench mark when I try to make sure they all post are layed on the same level and the hight are the same. I thought it is good idea to do that. What do you think

Thanks a lot.

Hi,
Try You tube B4 starting.

Tony Hwang wrote:
leza wang wrote:
One side of my house is overlook an Alleway (cars can drive). I want
to build a fence similar to this one (click on the link below please)

http://tinypic.com/r/24n2yja/8

My house is in similar situation of the picture above (instead of the
green, my house is there).

Of course the fence is going to be build on my property side. I want a
protection fence like the one in the picture because I am afraid in
the Winter cars might slip and hit my house.

I started working and dig to install the Posts. There will be 6-8 post
and the distance between them is 6' feet. My question, should I
install the first post (put the gravel first and then concorete) and
then wait to dry and then try to install pther post so I can use the
first one as a bench mark when I try to make sure they all post are
layed on the same level and the hight are the same. I thought it is
good idea to do that. What do you think

Thanks a lot.

Hi,
Try You tube B4 starting.
Hi,
Another idea might be planting few Norwegian poplar trees.
They grow so fast and they will act like traffic noise barrier
as well.

On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 1:28:25 PM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:
leza wang wrote: One side of my house is overlook an Alleway (cars can drive). I want to build a fence similar to this one (click on the link below please) http://tinypic.com/r/24n2yja/8 My house is in similar situation of the picture above (instead of the green, my house is there). Of course the fence is going to be build on my property side. I want a protection fence like the one in the picture because I am afraid in the Winter cars might slip and hit my house. I started working and dig to install the Posts. There will be 6-8 post and the distance between them is 6' feet. My question, should I install the first post (put the gravel first and then concorete) and then wait to dry and then try to install pther post so I can use the first one as a bench mark when I try to make sure they all post are layed on the same level and the hight are the same. I thought it is good idea to do that. What do you think Thanks a lot.

I think you should drive a pair of pegs and stretch a string to establish your line . Use a level to plumb your posts , set 'em a bit high and cut to height after mounting the top stringer . Cut the tops at an angle to shed water or they'll rot . And your concrete needs to be finished slightly above ground and sloped away from the post for the same reason . -- Snag

Thanks for your reply. Can you please tell me what do you mean by ".. should drive a pair of peges"?

I also want to ask, my post will be 4f high, is it ok to burry 1f of the post or more (like 1.5 f or 2 f)?

Thanks a lot.

leza wang wrote:
On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 1:28:25 PM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:
leza wang wrote: One side of my house is overlook an Alleway (cars
can drive). I want to build a fence similar to this one (click on
the link below please) http://tinypic.com/r/24n2yja/8 My
house is in similar situation of the picture above (instead of the
green, my house is there). Of course the fence is going to be
build on my property side. I want a protection fence like the one
in the picture because I am afraid in the Winter cars might slip
and hit my house. I started working and dig to install the
Posts. There will be 6-8 post and the distance between them is 6'
feet. My question, should I install the first post (put the gravel
first and then concorete) and then wait to dry and then try to
install pther post so I can use the first one as a bench mark when
I try to make sure they all post are layed on the same level and
the hight are the same. I thought it is good idea to do that. What
do you think Thanks a lot.

I think you should drive a pair of pegs and stretch a string to
establish your line . Use a level to plumb your posts , set 'em a bit
high and cut to height after mounting the top stringer . Cut the tops
at an angle to shed water or they'll rot . And your concrete needs to
be finished slightly above ground and sloped away from the post for
the same reason . -- Snag

Thanks for your reply. Can you please tell me what do you mean by
".. should drive a pair of peges"?

I also want to ask, my post will be 4f high, is it ok to burry 1f
of the post or more (like 1.5 f or 2 f)?

Thanks a lot.

Put a peg in the ground at each end of where you want your fence , and tie a
string tightly between them . THis will establish a straight line to guide
your pole placement . I use 8 foot treated 4x4 posts they're dead cheap -
bury them a *minimum* of 24" deep , depending on the frost line in your area
..
--
Snag
If what I posted is really that hard to understand , you should probably
hire somebody to build your fence .

On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 12:32:06 PM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:
leza wang wrote:

On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 1:28:25 PM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:

leza wang wrote: One side of my house is overlook an Alleway (cars

can drive). I want to build a fence similar to this one (click on

the link below please) http://tinypic.com/r/24n2yja/8 My

house is in similar situation of the picture above (instead of the

green, my house is there). Of course the fence is going to be

build on my property side. I want a protection fence like the one

in the picture because I am afraid in the Winter cars might slip

and hit my house. I started working and dig to install the

Posts. There will be 6-8 post and the distance between them is 6'

feet. My question, should I install the first post (put the gravel

first and then concorete) and then wait to dry and then try to

install pther post so I can use the first one as a bench mark when

I try to make sure they all post are layed on the same level and

the hight are the same. I thought it is good idea to do that. What

do you think Thanks a lot.



I think you should drive a pair of pegs and stretch a string to

establish your line . Use a level to plumb your posts , set 'em a bit

high and cut to height after mounting the top stringer . Cut the tops

at an angle to shed water or they'll rot . And your concrete needs to

be finished slightly above ground and sloped away from the post for

the same reason . -- Snag



Thanks for your reply. Can you please tell me what do you mean by

".. should drive a pair of peges"?



I also want to ask, my post will be 4f high, is it ok to burry 1f

of the post or more (like 1.5 f or 2 f)?



Thanks a lot.



Put a peg in the ground at each end of where you want your fence , and tie a

string tightly between them . THis will establish a straight line to guide

your pole placement . I use 8 foot treated 4x4 posts they're dead cheap -

bury them a *minimum* of 24" deep , depending on the frost line in your area

.

--

Snag

If what I posted is really that hard to understand , you should probably

hire somebody to build your fence .

Better practice is to set the two end post and then stretch a string. You're gonna have to restretch the string using those two end posts anyhow.

Harry K

On Tue, 15 Jul 2014 12:16:39 -0700 (PDT), leza wang
wrote:

On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 1:28:25 PM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:
leza wang wrote: One side of my house is overlook an Alleway (cars can drive). I want to build a fence similar to this one (click on the link below please) http://tinypic.com/r/24n2yja/8 My house is in similar situation of the picture above (instead of the green, my house is there). Of course the fence is going to be build on my property side. I want a protection fence like the one in the picture because I am afraid in the Winter cars might slip and hit my house. I started working and dig to install the Posts. There will be 6-8 post and the distance between them is 6' feet. My question, should I install the first post (put the gravel first and then concorete) and then wait to dry and then try to install pther post so I can use the first one as a bench mark when I try to make sure they all post are layed on the same level and the hight are the same. I thought it is good idea to do that. What do you think Thanks a lot.

I think you should drive a pair of pegs and stretch a string to establish your line . Use a level to plumb your posts , set 'em a bit high and cut to height after mounting the top stringer . Cut the tops at an angle to shed water or they'll rot . And your concrete needs to be finished slightly above ground and sloped away from the post for the same reason . -- Snag

Thanks for your reply. Can you please tell me what do you mean by ".. should drive a pair of peges"?

I also want to ask, my post will be 4f high, is it ok to burry 1f of the post or more (like 1.5 f or 2 f)?

Thanks a lot.

If you have snow and freezing temps, you want as much down as up. You
need to get down below the frost line (which around hear, on a
roadway, can be over 8 feet - no traffic areas 4 ft is generally safe)

Harry K wrote:
On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 12:32:06 PM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:
leza wang wrote:

On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 1:28:25 PM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:

leza wang wrote: One side of my house is overlook an Alleway
(cars

can drive). I want to build a fence similar to this one (click on

the link below please) http://tinypic.com/r/24n2yja/8 My

house is in similar situation of the picture above (instead of the


green, my house is there). Of course the fence is going to be

build on my property side. I want a protection fence like the one

in the picture because I am afraid in the Winter cars might slip

and hit my house. I started working and dig to install the

Posts. There will be 6-8 post and the distance between them is 6'

feet. My question, should I install the first post (put the
gravel

first and then concorete) and then wait to dry and then try to

install pther post so I can use the first one as a bench mark
when

I try to make sure they all post are layed on the same level and

the hight are the same. I thought it is good idea to do that.
What

do you think Thanks a lot.



I think you should drive a pair of pegs and stretch a string to

establish your line . Use a level to plumb your posts , set 'em a
bit

high and cut to height after mounting the top stringer . Cut the
tops

at an angle to shed water or they'll rot . And your concrete needs
to

be finished slightly above ground and sloped away from the post for

the same reason . -- Snag



Thanks for your reply. Can you please tell me what do you mean by

".. should drive a pair of peges"?



I also want to ask, my post will be 4f high, is it ok to burry 1f

of the post or more (like 1.5 f or 2 f)?



Thanks a lot.



Put a peg in the ground at each end of where you want your fence ,
and tie a

string tightly between them . THis will establish a straight line to
guide

your pole placement . I use 8 foot treated 4x4 posts they're dead
cheap -

bury them a *minimum* of 24" deep , depending on the frost line in
your area

.

--

Snag

If what I posted is really that hard to understand , you should
probably

hire somebody to build your fence .

Better practice is to set the two end post and then stretch a string.
You're gonna have to restretch the string using those two end posts
anyhow.

Harry K

Why ? If the posts are in a line and plumb , you set the top stringer with
a level and use it as a guide to cut the posts to height . Don't make more
work than necessary ! I do set the first board , then temp an end board to
pull a string to line up my pickets . Harry , I did this kind of work
carpentry/home repair for a living , and managed to learn a few tricks
over the years .

--
Snag

Harry K wrote:
On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 12:32:06 PM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:
leza wang wrote:

On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 1:28:25 PM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:

leza wang wrote: One side of my house is overlook an Alleway (cars

can drive). I want to build a fence similar to this one (click on

the link below please) http://tinypic.com/r/24n2yja/8 My

house is in similar situation of the picture above (instead of the

green, my house is there). Of course the fence is going to be

build on my property side. I want a protection fence like the one

in the picture because I am afraid in the Winter cars might slip

and hit my house. I started working and dig to install the

Posts. There will be 6-8 post and the distance between them is 6'

feet. My question, should I install the first post (put the gravel

first and then concorete) and then wait to dry and then try to

install pther post so I can use the first one as a bench mark when

I try to make sure they all post are layed on the same level and

the hight are the same. I thought it is good idea to do that. What

do you think Thanks a lot.



I think you should drive a pair of pegs and stretch a string to

establish your line . Use a level to plumb your posts , set 'em a bit

high and cut to height after mounting the top stringer . Cut the tops

at an angle to shed water or they'll rot . And your concrete needs to

be finished slightly above ground and sloped away from the post for

the same reason . -- Snag



Thanks for your reply. Can you please tell me what do you mean by

".. should drive a pair of peges"?



I also want to ask, my post will be 4f high, is it ok to burry 1f

of the post or more (like 1.5 f or 2 f)?



Thanks a lot.



Put a peg in the ground at each end of where you want your fence , and tie a

string tightly between them . THis will establish a straight line to guide

your pole placement . I use 8 foot treated 4x4 posts they're dead cheap -

bury them a *minimum* of 24" deep , depending on the frost line in your area

.

--

Snag

If what I posted is really that hard to understand , you should probably

hire somebody to build your fence .

Better practice is to set the two end post and then stretch a string. You're gonna have to restretch the string using those two end posts anyhow.

HarryYup,
String at near the bottom, not top.

Tony Hwang wrote:
Tony Hwang wrote:
leza wang wrote:
One side of my house is overlook an Alleway (cars can drive). I want
to build a fence similar to this one (click on the link below please)

http://tinypic.com/r/24n2yja/8

My house is in similar situation of the picture above (instead of the
green, my house is there).

Of course the fence is going to be build on my property side. I want a
protection fence like the one in the picture because I am afraid in
the Winter cars might slip and hit my house.

I started working and dig to install the Posts. There will be 6-8 post
and the distance between them is 6' feet. My question, should I
install the first post (put the gravel first and then concorete) and
then wait to dry and then try to install pther post so I can use the
first one as a bench mark when I try to make sure they all post are
layed on the same level and the hight are the same. I thought it is
good idea to do that. What do you think

Thanks a lot.

Hi,
Try You tube B4 starting.
Hi,
Another idea might be planting few Norwegian poplar trees.
They grow so fast and they will act like traffic noise barrier
as well.
Hi, Leza
It's OT, excuse me but how do you spell your name in Chinese?
My Korean name is 黃登一, Where are you from in China
or Taiwan?

On Tue, 15 Jul 2014 16:58:56 -0400, wrote:


If you have snow and freezing temps, you want as much down as up. You
need to get down below the frost line (which around hear, on a

Here is Canada, but where in Canada?

roadway, can be over 8 feet - no traffic areas 4 ft is generally safe)

On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 2:03:16 PM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:
Harry K wrote:

On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 12:32:06 PM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:


Better practice is to set the two end post and then stretch a string.
You're gonna have to restretch the string using those two end posts
anyhow.

Harry K

Why ? If the posts are in a line and plumb , you set the top stringer with

Why? So you can GET THE POSTS IN A STRAIGHT LINE to begin with. End posts, string line, dig holes, set posts USING THE STRING to get them straight in a line.

a level and use it as a guide to cut the posts to height . Don't make more

work than necessary !

Well, duh. Of course but since I never mentioned it...

I do set the first board , then temp an end board to

pull a string to line up my pickets . Harry , I did this kind of work

carpentry/home repair for a living , and managed to learn a few tricks

over the years .

Thanks for the warning, If you don't know how to set posts in a line, I for sure won't be hiring you.

I'm 79 and set my first posts when I was about 8 and been doing it off and one ever since.

Harry K

Harry K wrote:


Thanks for the warning, If you don't know how to set posts in a line,
I for sure won't be hiring you.

I'm 79 and set my first posts when I was about 8 and been doing it
off and one ever since.

Harry K


Sweet Jesus Harry , READ WHAT I WROTE !

I use a peg at either end of the run to pull the string to establish my
line . DID YOU GET IT THIS TIME ?
--
Snag
Go back and re-read my posts , I said that at least TWICE in my responses .
You owe me an apology .

On Wednesday, July 16, 2014 10:38:38 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:
Harry K wrote:





Thanks for the warning, If you don't know how to set posts in a line,

I for sure won't be hiring you.



I'm 79 and set my first posts when I was about 8 and been doing it

off and one ever since.



Harry K





Sweet Jesus Harry , READ WHAT I WROTE !



I use a peg at either end of the run to pull the string to establish my

line . DID YOU GET IT THIS TIME ?

--

Snag

Go back and re-read my posts , I said that at least TWICE in my responses

Harry K wrote:
On Wednesday, July 16, 2014 10:38:38 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:
Harry K wrote:





Thanks for the warning, If you don't know how to set posts in a
line,

I for sure won't be hiring you.



I'm 79 and set my first posts when I was about 8 and been doing it

off and one ever since.



Harry K





Sweet Jesus Harry , READ WHAT I WROTE !



I use a peg at either end of the run to pull the string to
establish my

line . DID YOU GET IT THIS TIME ?

--

Snag

Go back and re-read my posts , I said that at least TWICE in my
responses .

You owe me an apology .

No I don't. You could at least attempt to show how you are setting
your line posts if you haven't set the end posts first. I do not
know of, or seen ANYONE using pegs to set line posts. They set the
end posts, wrap line around one, stretch to the other tightly and
then set the line posts against the string.

I currently have runs of over 300 ft with RR ties set every 9'.
Sigth down the line and all you see is one post.

Harry K

Well goody goody for you . What does it matter if the guide string I'm
using is tied to a peg or a post at either end ? If the string is tight ,
and the posts all touch it on one side , and you plumb them as you set ,
they're gonna be in a straight line - which is the objective isn't it ?
The last fence I built was just over 80 feet , stepped down twice to
follow the terrain , used round steel posts customer's design and is clad
with rough cut cedar on both sides . Same as you , looking down the fence
it's as straight as , well , a string . And when it was finished the
customer gave me a 100 bucks bonus because it looked so good .
Just because my way isn't your way doesn't make my way wrong ... perhaps
you'd like to teach me how to lay out and cut the framing parts for a 3
radius reception desk too , while we're at it . And don't forget the
contrasting veneer inlays ... Or maybe you'd like to school me in how to cut
a round ball on a machine lathe ? No ? I know , I know , teach me how to TIG
weld , that's pretty difficult .
And you *do* owe me an apology .
--
Snag

On Thursday, July 17, 2014 8:40:05 AM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:
Harry K wrote:

On Wednesday, July 16, 2014 10:38:38 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:

Harry K wrote:











Thanks for the warning, If you don't know how to set posts in a

line,



I for sure won't be hiring you.







I'm 79 and set my first posts when I was about 8 and been doing it



off and one ever since.







Harry K











Sweet Jesus Harry , READ WHAT I WROTE !







I use a peg at either end of the run to pull the string to

establish my



line . DID YOU GET IT THIS TIME ?



--



Snag



Go back and re-read my posts , I said that at least TWICE in my

responses .



You owe me an apology .



No I don't. You could at least attempt to show how you are setting

your line posts if you haven't set the end posts first. I do not

know of, or seen ANYONE using pegs to set line posts. They set the

end posts, wrap line around one, stretch to the other tightly and

then set the line posts against the string.



I currently have runs of over 300 ft with RR ties set every 9'.

Sigth down the line and all you see is one post.



Harry K



Well goody goody for you . What does it matter if the guide string I'm

using is tied to a peg or a post at either end ? If the string is tight ,

and the posts all touch it on one side , and you plumb them as you set ,

they're gonna be in a straight line - which is the objective isn't it ?


The only difference I see is that using the two end posts avoids the need
to drive two separate pegs, so it's a little less work. On the other hand,
the string separate from the end-posts has the advantage for situations
where you want to see how the fence will run start to finish before choosing
the exact end-point locations.

On Thursday, July 17, 2014 5:40:05 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:
Harry K wrote:

On Wednesday, July 16, 2014 10:38:38 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:


snip

You owe me an apology .

No I don't. You could at least attempt to show how you are setting
your line posts if you haven't set the end posts first. I do not
know of, or seen ANYONE using pegs to set line posts. They set the
end posts, wrap line around one, stretch to the other tightly and
then set the line posts against the string.

I currently have runs of over 300 ft with RR ties set every 9'.
Sigth down the line and all you see is one post.

Harry K

Well goody goody for you . What does it matter if the guide string I'm
using is tied to a peg or a post at either end ? If the string is tight ,
and the posts all touch it on one side , and you plumb them as you set ,
they're gonna be in a straight line - which is the objective isn't it ?
The last fence I built was just over 80 feet , stepped down twice to
follow the terrain , used round steel posts customer's design and is clad
with rough cut cedar on both sides . Same as you , looking down the fence
it's as straight as , well , a string . And when it was finished the
customer gave me a 100 bucks bonus because it looked so good .
Just because my way isn't your way doesn't make my way wrong

snip

The point you keep missing is that fooling around with pegs is unneccesary and extra work. Why anyone wouild do it is beyond me. Perhaps needed going over terrain changes but definitely not when both ends are visible.

Harry K

Harry K wrote:
On Thursday, July 17, 2014 5:40:05 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:
Harry K wrote:

On Wednesday, July 16, 2014 10:38:38 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:


snip

You owe me an apology .

No I don't. You could at least attempt to show how you are setting
your line posts if you haven't set the end posts first. I do not
know of, or seen ANYONE using pegs to set line posts. They set the
end posts, wrap line around one, stretch to the other tightly and
then set the line posts against the string.

I currently have runs of over 300 ft with RR ties set every 9'.
Sigth down the line and all you see is one post.

Harry K

Well goody goody for you . What does it matter if the guide string
I'm using is tied to a peg or a post at either end ? If the string
is tight , and the posts all touch it on one side , and you plumb
them as you set , they're gonna be in a straight line - which is the
objective isn't it ? The last fence I built was just over 80 feet
, stepped down twice to follow the terrain , used round steel posts
customer's design and is clad with rough cut cedar on both sides .
Same as you , looking down the fence it's as straight as , well , a
string . And when it was finished the customer gave me a 100 bucks
bonus because it looked so good . Just because my way isn't your
way doesn't make my way wrong

snip

The point you keep missing is that fooling around with pegs is
unneccesary and extra work. Why anyone wouild do it is beyond me.
Perhaps needed going over terrain changes but definitely not when
both ends are visible.

Harry K

Ahh , but it's a more efficient use of my time to drive a couple of pegs
and commence to settin' posts than to set a pair of posts , wait a day or
two for concrete to set up and return to the job to set the rest . I've also
used existing fencing to establish my end points and line , whatever works
and every job is different . Time is money , and if I can set them all in
one day instead of having to come back , I'm ahead .

--
Snag

On Thursday, July 17, 2014 8:25:01 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:
Harry K wrote:

On Thursday, July 17, 2014 5:40:05 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:

Harry K wrote:



On Wednesday, July 16, 2014 10:38:38 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:





snip



You owe me an apology .



No I don't. You could at least attempt to show how you are setting

your line posts if you haven't set the end posts first. I do not

know of, or seen ANYONE using pegs to set line posts. They set the

end posts, wrap line around one, stretch to the other tightly and

then set the line posts against the string.



I currently have runs of over 300 ft with RR ties set every 9'.

Sigth down the line and all you see is one post.



Harry K



Well goody goody for you . What does it matter if the guide string

I'm using is tied to a peg or a post at either end ? If the string

is tight , and the posts all touch it on one side , and you plumb

them as you set , they're gonna be in a straight line - which is the

objective isn't it ? The last fence I built was just over 80 feet

, stepped down twice to follow the terrain , used round steel posts

customer's design and is clad with rough cut cedar on both sides .

Same as you , looking down the fence it's as straight as , well , a

string . And when it was finished the customer gave me a 100 bucks

bonus because it looked so good . Just because my way isn't your

way doesn't make my way wrong



snip



The point you keep missing is that fooling around with pegs is

unneccesary and extra work. Why anyone wouild do it is beyond me.

Perhaps needed going over terrain changes but definitely not when

both ends are visible.



Harry K



Ahh , but it's a more efficient use of my time to drive a couple of pegs

and commence to settin' posts than to set a pair of posts , wait a day or

two for concrete to set up and return to the job to set the rest . I've also

used existing fencing to establish my end points and line , whatever works

and every job is different . Time is money , and if I can set them all in

one day instead of having to come back , I'm ahead .



--

Snag

Yep. Never one solution for everything. And yes, I do apologize.

Harry K

Harry K wrote:
On Thursday, July 17, 2014 8:25:01 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:
I've also

used existing fencing to establish my end points and line , whatever
works

and every job is different . Time is money , and if I can set them
all in

one day instead of having to come back , I'm ahead .



--

Snag

Yep. Never one solution for everything. And yes, I do apologize.

Harry K

You sir are a gentleman and a scholar .
--
Snag

On Friday, July 18, 2014 4:50:42 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:
Harry K wrote:

On Thursday, July 17, 2014 8:25:01 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:

I've also



used existing fencing to establish my end points and line , whatever

works



and every job is different . Time is money , and if I can set them

all in



one day instead of having to come back , I'm ahead .







--



Snag



Yep. Never one solution for everything. And yes, I do apologize.



Harry K



You sir are a gentleman and a scholar .

--

Snag

Perhaps on a good day when I'm not on the rag as I so obviously was in my first reply

Harry K