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First fence post as a bench marker
One side of my house is overlook an Alleway (cars can drive). I want to build a fence similar to this one (click on the link below please)
http://tinypic.com/r/24n2yja/8 My house is in similar situation of the picture above (instead of the green, my house is there). Of course the fence is going to be build on my property side. I want a protection fence like the one in the picture because I am afraid in the Winter cars might slip and hit my house. I started working and dig to install the Posts. There will be 6-8 post and the distance between them is 6' feet. My question, should I install the first post (put the gravel first and then concorete) and then wait to dry and then try to install pther post so I can use the first one as a bench mark when I try to make sure they all post are layed on the same level and the hight are the same. I thought it is good idea to do that. What do you think Thanks a lot. |
First fence post as a bench marker
leza wang wrote:
One side of my house is overlook an Alleway (cars can drive). I want to build a fence similar to this one (click on the link below please) http://tinypic.com/r/24n2yja/8 My house is in similar situation of the picture above (instead of the green, my house is there). Of course the fence is going to be build on my property side. I want a protection fence like the one in the picture because I am afraid in the Winter cars might slip and hit my house. I started working and dig to install the Posts. There will be 6-8 post and the distance between them is 6' feet. My question, should I install the first post (put the gravel first and then concorete) and then wait to dry and then try to install pther post so I can use the first one as a bench mark when I try to make sure they all post are layed on the same level and the hight are the same. I thought it is good idea to do that. What do you think Thanks a lot. I think you should drive a pair of pegs and stretch a string to establish your line . Use a level to plumb your posts , set 'em a bit high and cut to height after mounting the top stringer . Cut the tops at an angle to shed water or they'll rot . And your concrete needs to be finished slightly above ground and sloped away from the post for the same reason . -- Snag |
First fence post as a bench marker
leza wang wrote:
One side of my house is overlook an Alleway (cars can drive). I want to build a fence similar to this one (click on the link below please) http://tinypic.com/r/24n2yja/8 My house is in similar situation of the picture above (instead of the green, my house is there). Of course the fence is going to be build on my property side. I want a protection fence like the one in the picture because I am afraid in the Winter cars might slip and hit my house. I started working and dig to install the Posts. There will be 6-8 post and the distance between them is 6' feet. My question, should I install the first post (put the gravel first and then concorete) and then wait to dry and then try to install pther post so I can use the first one as a bench mark when I try to make sure they all post are layed on the same level and the hight are the same. I thought it is good idea to do that. What do you think Thanks a lot. Hi, Try You tube B4 starting. |
First fence post as a bench marker
Tony Hwang wrote:
leza wang wrote: One side of my house is overlook an Alleway (cars can drive). I want to build a fence similar to this one (click on the link below please) http://tinypic.com/r/24n2yja/8 My house is in similar situation of the picture above (instead of the green, my house is there). Of course the fence is going to be build on my property side. I want a protection fence like the one in the picture because I am afraid in the Winter cars might slip and hit my house. I started working and dig to install the Posts. There will be 6-8 post and the distance between them is 6' feet. My question, should I install the first post (put the gravel first and then concorete) and then wait to dry and then try to install pther post so I can use the first one as a bench mark when I try to make sure they all post are layed on the same level and the hight are the same. I thought it is good idea to do that. What do you think Thanks a lot. Hi, Try You tube B4 starting. Hi, Another idea might be planting few Norwegian poplar trees. They grow so fast and they will act like traffic noise barrier as well. |
First fence post as a bench marker
On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 1:28:25 PM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:
leza wang wrote: One side of my house is overlook an Alleway (cars can drive). I want to build a fence similar to this one (click on the link below please) http://tinypic.com/r/24n2yja/8 My house is in similar situation of the picture above (instead of the green, my house is there). Of course the fence is going to be build on my property side. I want a protection fence like the one in the picture because I am afraid in the Winter cars might slip and hit my house. I started working and dig to install the Posts. There will be 6-8 post and the distance between them is 6' feet. My question, should I install the first post (put the gravel first and then concorete) and then wait to dry and then try to install pther post so I can use the first one as a bench mark when I try to make sure they all post are layed on the same level and the hight are the same. I thought it is good idea to do that. What do you think Thanks a lot. I think you should drive a pair of pegs and stretch a string to establish your line . Use a level to plumb your posts , set 'em a bit high and cut to height after mounting the top stringer . Cut the tops at an angle to shed water or they'll rot . And your concrete needs to be finished slightly above ground and sloped away from the post for the same reason . -- Snag Thanks for your reply. Can you please tell me what do you mean by ".. should drive a pair of peges"? I also want to ask, my post will be 4f high, is it ok to burry 1f of the post or more (like 1.5 f or 2 f)? Thanks a lot. |
First fence post as a bench marker
leza wang wrote:
On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 1:28:25 PM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote: leza wang wrote: One side of my house is overlook an Alleway (cars can drive). I want to build a fence similar to this one (click on the link below please) http://tinypic.com/r/24n2yja/8 My house is in similar situation of the picture above (instead of the green, my house is there). Of course the fence is going to be build on my property side. I want a protection fence like the one in the picture because I am afraid in the Winter cars might slip and hit my house. I started working and dig to install the Posts. There will be 6-8 post and the distance between them is 6' feet. My question, should I install the first post (put the gravel first and then concorete) and then wait to dry and then try to install pther post so I can use the first one as a bench mark when I try to make sure they all post are layed on the same level and the hight are the same. I thought it is good idea to do that. What do you think Thanks a lot. I think you should drive a pair of pegs and stretch a string to establish your line . Use a level to plumb your posts , set 'em a bit high and cut to height after mounting the top stringer . Cut the tops at an angle to shed water or they'll rot . And your concrete needs to be finished slightly above ground and sloped away from the post for the same reason . -- Snag Thanks for your reply. Can you please tell me what do you mean by ".. should drive a pair of peges"? I also want to ask, my post will be 4f high, is it ok to burry 1f of the post or more (like 1.5 f or 2 f)? Thanks a lot. Put a peg in the ground at each end of where you want your fence , and tie a string tightly between them . THis will establish a straight line to guide your pole placement . I use 8 foot treated 4x4 posts they're dead cheap - bury them a *minimum* of 24" deep , depending on the frost line in your area .. -- Snag If what I posted is really that hard to understand , you should probably hire somebody to build your fence . |
First fence post as a bench marker
On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 12:32:06 PM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:
leza wang wrote: On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 1:28:25 PM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote: leza wang wrote: One side of my house is overlook an Alleway (cars can drive). I want to build a fence similar to this one (click on the link below please) http://tinypic.com/r/24n2yja/8 My house is in similar situation of the picture above (instead of the green, my house is there). Of course the fence is going to be build on my property side. I want a protection fence like the one in the picture because I am afraid in the Winter cars might slip and hit my house. I started working and dig to install the Posts. There will be 6-8 post and the distance between them is 6' feet. My question, should I install the first post (put the gravel first and then concorete) and then wait to dry and then try to install pther post so I can use the first one as a bench mark when I try to make sure they all post are layed on the same level and the hight are the same. I thought it is good idea to do that. What do you think Thanks a lot. I think you should drive a pair of pegs and stretch a string to establish your line . Use a level to plumb your posts , set 'em a bit high and cut to height after mounting the top stringer . Cut the tops at an angle to shed water or they'll rot . And your concrete needs to be finished slightly above ground and sloped away from the post for the same reason . -- Snag Thanks for your reply. Can you please tell me what do you mean by ".. should drive a pair of peges"? I also want to ask, my post will be 4f high, is it ok to burry 1f of the post or more (like 1.5 f or 2 f)? Thanks a lot. Put a peg in the ground at each end of where you want your fence , and tie a string tightly between them . THis will establish a straight line to guide your pole placement . I use 8 foot treated 4x4 posts they're dead cheap - bury them a *minimum* of 24" deep , depending on the frost line in your area . -- Snag If what I posted is really that hard to understand , you should probably hire somebody to build your fence . Better practice is to set the two end post and then stretch a string. You're gonna have to restretch the string using those two end posts anyhow. Harry K |
First fence post as a bench marker
On Tue, 15 Jul 2014 12:16:39 -0700 (PDT), leza wang
wrote: On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 1:28:25 PM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote: leza wang wrote: One side of my house is overlook an Alleway (cars can drive). I want to build a fence similar to this one (click on the link below please) http://tinypic.com/r/24n2yja/8 My house is in similar situation of the picture above (instead of the green, my house is there). Of course the fence is going to be build on my property side. I want a protection fence like the one in the picture because I am afraid in the Winter cars might slip and hit my house. I started working and dig to install the Posts. There will be 6-8 post and the distance between them is 6' feet. My question, should I install the first post (put the gravel first and then concorete) and then wait to dry and then try to install pther post so I can use the first one as a bench mark when I try to make sure they all post are layed on the same level and the hight are the same. I thought it is good idea to do that. What do you think Thanks a lot. I think you should drive a pair of pegs and stretch a string to establish your line . Use a level to plumb your posts , set 'em a bit high and cut to height after mounting the top stringer . Cut the tops at an angle to shed water or they'll rot . And your concrete needs to be finished slightly above ground and sloped away from the post for the same reason . -- Snag Thanks for your reply. Can you please tell me what do you mean by ".. should drive a pair of peges"? I also want to ask, my post will be 4f high, is it ok to burry 1f of the post or more (like 1.5 f or 2 f)? Thanks a lot. If you have snow and freezing temps, you want as much down as up. You need to get down below the frost line (which around hear, on a roadway, can be over 8 feet - no traffic areas 4 ft is generally safe) |
First fence post as a bench marker
Harry K wrote:
On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 12:32:06 PM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote: leza wang wrote: On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 1:28:25 PM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote: leza wang wrote: One side of my house is overlook an Alleway (cars can drive). I want to build a fence similar to this one (click on the link below please) http://tinypic.com/r/24n2yja/8 My house is in similar situation of the picture above (instead of the green, my house is there). Of course the fence is going to be build on my property side. I want a protection fence like the one in the picture because I am afraid in the Winter cars might slip and hit my house. I started working and dig to install the Posts. There will be 6-8 post and the distance between them is 6' feet. My question, should I install the first post (put the gravel first and then concorete) and then wait to dry and then try to install pther post so I can use the first one as a bench mark when I try to make sure they all post are layed on the same level and the hight are the same. I thought it is good idea to do that. What do you think Thanks a lot. I think you should drive a pair of pegs and stretch a string to establish your line . Use a level to plumb your posts , set 'em a bit high and cut to height after mounting the top stringer . Cut the tops at an angle to shed water or they'll rot . And your concrete needs to be finished slightly above ground and sloped away from the post for the same reason . -- Snag Thanks for your reply. Can you please tell me what do you mean by ".. should drive a pair of peges"? I also want to ask, my post will be 4f high, is it ok to burry 1f of the post or more (like 1.5 f or 2 f)? Thanks a lot. Put a peg in the ground at each end of where you want your fence , and tie a string tightly between them . THis will establish a straight line to guide your pole placement . I use 8 foot treated 4x4 posts they're dead cheap - bury them a *minimum* of 24" deep , depending on the frost line in your area . -- Snag If what I posted is really that hard to understand , you should probably hire somebody to build your fence . Better practice is to set the two end post and then stretch a string. You're gonna have to restretch the string using those two end posts anyhow. Harry K Why ? If the posts are in a line and plumb , you set the top stringer with a level and use it as a guide to cut the posts to height . Don't make more work than necessary ! I do set the first board , then temp an end board to pull a string to line up my pickets . Harry , I did this kind of work carpentry/home repair for a living , and managed to learn a few tricks over the years . -- Snag |
First fence post as a bench marker
Harry K wrote:
On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 12:32:06 PM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote: leza wang wrote: On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 1:28:25 PM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote: leza wang wrote: One side of my house is overlook an Alleway (cars can drive). I want to build a fence similar to this one (click on the link below please) http://tinypic.com/r/24n2yja/8 My house is in similar situation of the picture above (instead of the green, my house is there). Of course the fence is going to be build on my property side. I want a protection fence like the one in the picture because I am afraid in the Winter cars might slip and hit my house. I started working and dig to install the Posts. There will be 6-8 post and the distance between them is 6' feet. My question, should I install the first post (put the gravel first and then concorete) and then wait to dry and then try to install pther post so I can use the first one as a bench mark when I try to make sure they all post are layed on the same level and the hight are the same. I thought it is good idea to do that. What do you think Thanks a lot. I think you should drive a pair of pegs and stretch a string to establish your line . Use a level to plumb your posts , set 'em a bit high and cut to height after mounting the top stringer . Cut the tops at an angle to shed water or they'll rot . And your concrete needs to be finished slightly above ground and sloped away from the post for the same reason . -- Snag Thanks for your reply. Can you please tell me what do you mean by ".. should drive a pair of peges"? I also want to ask, my post will be 4f high, is it ok to burry 1f of the post or more (like 1.5 f or 2 f)? Thanks a lot. Put a peg in the ground at each end of where you want your fence , and tie a string tightly between them . THis will establish a straight line to guide your pole placement . I use 8 foot treated 4x4 posts they're dead cheap - bury them a *minimum* of 24" deep , depending on the frost line in your area . -- Snag If what I posted is really that hard to understand , you should probably hire somebody to build your fence . Better practice is to set the two end post and then stretch a string. You're gonna have to restretch the string using those two end posts anyhow. HarryYup, String at near the bottom, not top. |
First fence post as a bench marker
Tony Hwang wrote:
Tony Hwang wrote: leza wang wrote: One side of my house is overlook an Alleway (cars can drive). I want to build a fence similar to this one (click on the link below please) http://tinypic.com/r/24n2yja/8 My house is in similar situation of the picture above (instead of the green, my house is there). Of course the fence is going to be build on my property side. I want a protection fence like the one in the picture because I am afraid in the Winter cars might slip and hit my house. I started working and dig to install the Posts. There will be 6-8 post and the distance between them is 6' feet. My question, should I install the first post (put the gravel first and then concorete) and then wait to dry and then try to install pther post so I can use the first one as a bench mark when I try to make sure they all post are layed on the same level and the hight are the same. I thought it is good idea to do that. What do you think Thanks a lot. Hi, Try You tube B4 starting. Hi, Another idea might be planting few Norwegian poplar trees. They grow so fast and they will act like traffic noise barrier as well. Hi, Leza It's OT, excuse me but how do you spell your name in Chinese? My Korean name is 黃登一, Where are you from in China or Taiwan? |
First fence post as a bench marker
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First fence post as a bench marker
On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 2:03:16 PM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:
Harry K wrote: On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 12:32:06 PM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote: Better practice is to set the two end post and then stretch a string. You're gonna have to restretch the string using those two end posts anyhow. Harry K Why ? If the posts are in a line and plumb , you set the top stringer with Why? So you can GET THE POSTS IN A STRAIGHT LINE to begin with. End posts, string line, dig holes, set posts USING THE STRING to get them straight in a line. a level and use it as a guide to cut the posts to height . Don't make more work than necessary ! Well, duh. Of course but since I never mentioned it... I do set the first board , then temp an end board to pull a string to line up my pickets . Harry , I did this kind of work carpentry/home repair for a living , and managed to learn a few tricks over the years . Thanks for the warning, If you don't know how to set posts in a line, I for sure won't be hiring you. I'm 79 and set my first posts when I was about 8 and been doing it off and one ever since. Harry K |
First fence post as a bench marker
Harry K wrote:
Thanks for the warning, If you don't know how to set posts in a line, I for sure won't be hiring you. I'm 79 and set my first posts when I was about 8 and been doing it off and one ever since. Harry K Sweet Jesus Harry , READ WHAT I WROTE ! I use a peg at either end of the run to pull the string to establish my line . DID YOU GET IT THIS TIME ? -- Snag Go back and re-read my posts , I said that at least TWICE in my responses . You owe me an apology . |
First fence post as a bench marker
On Wednesday, July 16, 2014 10:38:38 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:
Harry K wrote: Thanks for the warning, If you don't know how to set posts in a line, I for sure won't be hiring you. I'm 79 and set my first posts when I was about 8 and been doing it off and one ever since. Harry K Sweet Jesus Harry , READ WHAT I WROTE ! I use a peg at either end of the run to pull the string to establish my line . DID YOU GET IT THIS TIME ? -- Snag Go back and re-read my posts , I said that at least TWICE in my responses |
First fence post as a bench marker
Harry K wrote:
On Wednesday, July 16, 2014 10:38:38 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote: Harry K wrote: Thanks for the warning, If you don't know how to set posts in a line, I for sure won't be hiring you. I'm 79 and set my first posts when I was about 8 and been doing it off and one ever since. Harry K Sweet Jesus Harry , READ WHAT I WROTE ! I use a peg at either end of the run to pull the string to establish my line . DID YOU GET IT THIS TIME ? -- Snag Go back and re-read my posts , I said that at least TWICE in my responses . You owe me an apology . No I don't. You could at least attempt to show how you are setting your line posts if you haven't set the end posts first. I do not know of, or seen ANYONE using pegs to set line posts. They set the end posts, wrap line around one, stretch to the other tightly and then set the line posts against the string. I currently have runs of over 300 ft with RR ties set every 9'. Sigth down the line and all you see is one post. Harry K Well goody goody for you . What does it matter if the guide string I'm using is tied to a peg or a post at either end ? If the string is tight , and the posts all touch it on one side , and you plumb them as you set , they're gonna be in a straight line - which is the objective isn't it ? The last fence I built was just over 80 feet , stepped down twice to follow the terrain , used round steel posts customer's design and is clad with rough cut cedar on both sides . Same as you , looking down the fence it's as straight as , well , a string . And when it was finished the customer gave me a 100 bucks bonus because it looked so good . Just because my way isn't your way doesn't make my way wrong ... perhaps you'd like to teach me how to lay out and cut the framing parts for a 3 radius reception desk too , while we're at it . And don't forget the contrasting veneer inlays ... Or maybe you'd like to school me in how to cut a round ball on a machine lathe ? No ? I know , I know , teach me how to TIG weld , that's pretty difficult . And you *do* owe me an apology . -- Snag |
First fence post as a bench marker
On Thursday, July 17, 2014 8:40:05 AM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:
Harry K wrote: On Wednesday, July 16, 2014 10:38:38 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote: Harry K wrote: Thanks for the warning, If you don't know how to set posts in a line, I for sure won't be hiring you. I'm 79 and set my first posts when I was about 8 and been doing it off and one ever since. Harry K Sweet Jesus Harry , READ WHAT I WROTE ! I use a peg at either end of the run to pull the string to establish my line . DID YOU GET IT THIS TIME ? -- Snag Go back and re-read my posts , I said that at least TWICE in my responses . You owe me an apology . No I don't. You could at least attempt to show how you are setting your line posts if you haven't set the end posts first. I do not know of, or seen ANYONE using pegs to set line posts. They set the end posts, wrap line around one, stretch to the other tightly and then set the line posts against the string. I currently have runs of over 300 ft with RR ties set every 9'. Sigth down the line and all you see is one post. Harry K Well goody goody for you . What does it matter if the guide string I'm using is tied to a peg or a post at either end ? If the string is tight , and the posts all touch it on one side , and you plumb them as you set , they're gonna be in a straight line - which is the objective isn't it ? The only difference I see is that using the two end posts avoids the need to drive two separate pegs, so it's a little less work. On the other hand, the string separate from the end-posts has the advantage for situations where you want to see how the fence will run start to finish before choosing the exact end-point locations. |
First fence post as a bench marker
On Thursday, July 17, 2014 5:40:05 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:
Harry K wrote: On Wednesday, July 16, 2014 10:38:38 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote: snip You owe me an apology . No I don't. You could at least attempt to show how you are setting your line posts if you haven't set the end posts first. I do not know of, or seen ANYONE using pegs to set line posts. They set the end posts, wrap line around one, stretch to the other tightly and then set the line posts against the string. I currently have runs of over 300 ft with RR ties set every 9'. Sigth down the line and all you see is one post. Harry K Well goody goody for you . What does it matter if the guide string I'm using is tied to a peg or a post at either end ? If the string is tight , and the posts all touch it on one side , and you plumb them as you set , they're gonna be in a straight line - which is the objective isn't it ? The last fence I built was just over 80 feet , stepped down twice to follow the terrain , used round steel posts customer's design and is clad with rough cut cedar on both sides . Same as you , looking down the fence it's as straight as , well , a string . And when it was finished the customer gave me a 100 bucks bonus because it looked so good . Just because my way isn't your way doesn't make my way wrong snip The point you keep missing is that fooling around with pegs is unneccesary and extra work. Why anyone wouild do it is beyond me. Perhaps needed going over terrain changes but definitely not when both ends are visible. Harry K |
First fence post as a bench marker
Harry K wrote:
On Thursday, July 17, 2014 5:40:05 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote: Harry K wrote: On Wednesday, July 16, 2014 10:38:38 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote: snip You owe me an apology . No I don't. You could at least attempt to show how you are setting your line posts if you haven't set the end posts first. I do not know of, or seen ANYONE using pegs to set line posts. They set the end posts, wrap line around one, stretch to the other tightly and then set the line posts against the string. I currently have runs of over 300 ft with RR ties set every 9'. Sigth down the line and all you see is one post. Harry K Well goody goody for you . What does it matter if the guide string I'm using is tied to a peg or a post at either end ? If the string is tight , and the posts all touch it on one side , and you plumb them as you set , they're gonna be in a straight line - which is the objective isn't it ? The last fence I built was just over 80 feet , stepped down twice to follow the terrain , used round steel posts customer's design and is clad with rough cut cedar on both sides . Same as you , looking down the fence it's as straight as , well , a string . And when it was finished the customer gave me a 100 bucks bonus because it looked so good . Just because my way isn't your way doesn't make my way wrong snip The point you keep missing is that fooling around with pegs is unneccesary and extra work. Why anyone wouild do it is beyond me. Perhaps needed going over terrain changes but definitely not when both ends are visible. Harry K Ahh , but it's a more efficient use of my time to drive a couple of pegs and commence to settin' posts than to set a pair of posts , wait a day or two for concrete to set up and return to the job to set the rest . I've also used existing fencing to establish my end points and line , whatever works and every job is different . Time is money , and if I can set them all in one day instead of having to come back , I'm ahead . -- Snag |
First fence post as a bench marker
On Thursday, July 17, 2014 8:25:01 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:
Harry K wrote: On Thursday, July 17, 2014 5:40:05 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote: Harry K wrote: On Wednesday, July 16, 2014 10:38:38 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote: snip You owe me an apology . No I don't. You could at least attempt to show how you are setting your line posts if you haven't set the end posts first. I do not know of, or seen ANYONE using pegs to set line posts. They set the end posts, wrap line around one, stretch to the other tightly and then set the line posts against the string. I currently have runs of over 300 ft with RR ties set every 9'. Sigth down the line and all you see is one post. Harry K Well goody goody for you . What does it matter if the guide string I'm using is tied to a peg or a post at either end ? If the string is tight , and the posts all touch it on one side , and you plumb them as you set , they're gonna be in a straight line - which is the objective isn't it ? The last fence I built was just over 80 feet , stepped down twice to follow the terrain , used round steel posts customer's design and is clad with rough cut cedar on both sides . Same as you , looking down the fence it's as straight as , well , a string . And when it was finished the customer gave me a 100 bucks bonus because it looked so good . Just because my way isn't your way doesn't make my way wrong snip The point you keep missing is that fooling around with pegs is unneccesary and extra work. Why anyone wouild do it is beyond me. Perhaps needed going over terrain changes but definitely not when both ends are visible. Harry K Ahh , but it's a more efficient use of my time to drive a couple of pegs and commence to settin' posts than to set a pair of posts , wait a day or two for concrete to set up and return to the job to set the rest . I've also used existing fencing to establish my end points and line , whatever works and every job is different . Time is money , and if I can set them all in one day instead of having to come back , I'm ahead . -- Snag Yep. Never one solution for everything. And yes, I do apologize. Harry K |
First fence post as a bench marker
Harry K wrote:
On Thursday, July 17, 2014 8:25:01 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote: I've also used existing fencing to establish my end points and line , whatever works and every job is different . Time is money , and if I can set them all in one day instead of having to come back , I'm ahead . -- Snag Yep. Never one solution for everything. And yes, I do apologize. Harry K You sir are a gentleman and a scholar . -- Snag |
First fence post as a bench marker
On Friday, July 18, 2014 4:50:42 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:
Harry K wrote: On Thursday, July 17, 2014 8:25:01 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote: I've also used existing fencing to establish my end points and line , whatever works and every job is different . Time is money , and if I can set them all in one day instead of having to come back , I'm ahead . -- Snag Yep. Never one solution for everything. And yes, I do apologize. Harry K You sir are a gentleman and a scholar . -- Snag Perhaps on a good day when I'm not on the rag as I so obviously was in my first reply :) Harry K |
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