On Sunday, June 29, 2014 8:27:20 AM UTC-4, Mayayana wrote:
|

http://www.dupont.com/products-and-s...m-product.html

|

| "DuPont(tm) Tyvek(R) HomeWrap(R) is the original house wrap. It holds out

air and bulk water, while allowing interior moisture vapor to escape,

promoting drying within the wall systems, and helping prevent water damage

and mold. "

|

| I didn't say it was essential. But it doesn't cost much and it's

| added protection. And at least I understand what Tyvek does.

| Feel free to admit you're wrong, or keep digging your hole, your

| choice.



So you advocate taking all of the T-111 off of the shed to

put Tyvek underneath,

I see you've chosen to dig your hole deeper. Now you're lying. I never
said anything of the sort. Try to pay attention. You said that Tyvek
is just a wind barrier. That's not true. It's also there to prevent water infiltration if any water gets past the siding. Is it essential for a shed?
No, but that doesn't change what Tyvek is, what it does.



despite that the shed is not normally

heated (and doesn't even have an interior wall) in hopes that

any water actually running under the T-111 will be prevented

from getting through?



I simply can't see the sense in that. I also wouldn't depend on

Tyvek to prevent water soaking through. (The term "bulk water"

is ambiguous. I know that Tyvek will stop water flow, like a bucket

of liquid water thrown at it. I'm not confident it would stop water

soaking through to a stud in a scenario where the siding is staying

wet. That sounds like creative marketing on the part of DuPont to

me.

Sure, we should believe you rather than the company that makes and
specs the product. But you're OK with them saying that it helps
block wind, that's not marketing hype and lies. Go figure.



They're exploiting peoples' fear of water damage with a vague

and largely irrelevant claim.


You're an idiot.


Water *flowing* around or under siding

is a rare situation, and would be somewhat of an emergency. Tyvek

underneath is not a cure for that. Tyvek's to stop wind. Siding is to

stop water.)

Sure, we should believe you rather than the company that makes it.
How about This Old House video, are they lying too? They show Tyvek being
installed and how it shields against water getting in:


http://www.bobvila.com/sections/tv-s...n#.U7AK8nlOV9A


United State Gypsum lying too?:

"Water repellent barrier protection for exterior drywall systems DuPont(tm) Tyvek(R) StuccoWrap(R) has an engineered grooved surface that can help better manage water when installed as a drainage plane. "


It would seem USG that makes exterior building products surely knows
about what Tyvek is to be used for, how it works to protect their siding
products.

How about the International Building Code:

"SECTION R703 EXTERIOR COVERING

R703.1 General.
Exterior walls shall provide the building with a weather-resistant exterior wall envelope. The exterior wall envelope shall include flashing as described in Section R703.8.

"R703.1.1 Water resistance.
The exterior wall envelope shall be designed and constructed in a manner that prevents the accumulation of water within the wall assembly by providing a water-resistant barrier behind the exterior veneer as required by Section R703.2 and a means of draining to the exterior water that enters the assembly. "





What about just dealing with the siding? Water shouldn't be

getting through in the first place.



No siding system is perfect. I guess the concept of not relying
on just one thing is foreign to you. See the IRC code above.





Hopefully Julie Bove, and anyone else dealing with a similar

situation, can filter through all the responses here and come

up with a good solution. All I can say is that I hope she doesn't

take down her siding to put up Tyvek because I think that would

be an expensive waste of time and money for absolutely no

gain.



And again, I never sais she should, idiot.




I guess that's a shortcoming of advice forums. When one

doesn't have confidence in any one person to know the

answer, one can end up with far too many answers and not

enough solutions.

She can read up on Tyvek, read the building code I cited
and what you just said about relying only on siding to keep out water
and then she'll know for sure that you don't know what you're talking
about.

But feel free to dig deeper.

"David Martel" writes:
Julie.

It's common to frame a house with 2x4s.

Or more commonly, 2x6s providing additional cavity space for insulation.

After the framing is up the
framing is covered with plywood sheets on the outside and perhaps drywall on
the inside.

Or more commonly, OSB (oriented strand board) on the outside.

House wrap (or tar paper) is stapled to the sheathing to prevent
drafts.

Or more commonly to prevent moisture damage due to condensation
within the wall cavity.

On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 15:29:36 GMT, (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:

"David Martel" writes:
Julie.

It's common to frame a house with 2x4s.

Or more commonly, 2x6s providing additional cavity space for insulation.

After the framing is up the
framing is covered with plywood sheets on the outside and perhaps drywall on
the inside.

Or more commonly, OSB (oriented strand board) on the outside.

House wrap (or tar paper) is stapled to the sheathing to prevent
drafts.

Or more commonly to prevent moisture damage due to condensation
within the wall cavity.
Typar breathes (allows vapour out) but is almost totally impervious
to liquid penetration, so it helps keep walls and insulation dry.

Scott Lurndal wrote:
"David Martel" writes:
Julie.

It's common to frame a house with 2x4s.

Or more commonly, 2x6s providing additional cavity space for insulation.

After the framing is up the
framing is covered with plywood sheets on the outside and perhaps drywall on
the inside.

Or more commonly, OSB (oriented strand board) on the outside.

It's not common, but...

The exterior of my 1956 2 story colonial is sheathed with 1x8 T&G boards,
both the walls and the roof.

The interior has 3/8€� x 12 T&G gypsum drywall board covered with 3/8" of
plaster, as shown in images 3 & 4 at this site:

http://www.fireengineering.com/artic...s-plaster.html

Yep, the interior walls are 3/4" thick.



House wrap (or tar paper) is stapled to the sheathing to prevent
drafts.

Or more commonly to prevent moisture damage due to condensation
within the wall cavity.

It's not common, but...
The exterior of my 1956 2 story colonial is sheathed with 1x8 T&G
boards, both the walls and the roof.
The interior has 3/8€� x 12 T&G gypsum drywall board covered with
3/8" of plaster, as shown in images 3 & 4 at this site:
Yep, the interior walls are 3/4" thick.

I think "common" varies over the years. My in-laws 100 year old house is
similar to yours.

The walls are balloon framed with 2x4's (really 2" x 4").

The interior has wood lath and plaster that is almost 3/4" thick.

The exterior has 1x6 wood siding nailed directly to the studs, something
like this:

http://www.coxhardware.com/p-9605-1-...ne-siding-117-
lengths.aspx

There is no exterior sheathing, and certainly no tar paper or house wrap.
There's very little in the way of diagonal bracing to prevent racking. It
still amazes me the house has lasted 100 years and still going strong.

Of course, there was no insulation either, so everything breathed fairly
well. Todays houses are built much tighter, so moisture control is critical
to prevent mold growth.

On the other hand, a simple unfinished structure with no heat or insulation
(like a shed) doesn't need housewraps or moisture barriers.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com