I am working with a pair of steel entry doors that are in need of a
facelift. There are chips and strips of paint missing (from ripping
tape off) and old screw holes from old weatherstripping.

I am planning to bondo and sand the hold, but for the paint chips and
strips should I use bondo to "skim coat" or sand down the entire door to
remove the paint and start again?

I can't remove the doors as they are exterior entrance doors

Any suggestions would be appreciated

--
PV

PV wrote:
I am working with a pair of steel entry doors that are in need of a
facelift. There are chips and strips of paint missing (from ripping tape
off) and old screw holes from old weatherstripping.

I am planning to bondo and sand the hold, but for the paint chips and
strips should I use bondo to "skim coat" or sand down the entire door to
remove the paint and start again?

I can't remove the doors as they are exterior entrance doors

Any suggestions would be appreciated


Well, you _could_ remove the doors and temporarily install anything from a
used door to a sheet of plywood cut to fit. I guess it all matters on
whether you care how it looks for the time you'd need to strip the doors
properly and repaint.

Security might be an issue, but I hope that you don't live someplace where
the substitution of door for a day or two would guarantee a home invasion.

Have you considered using stripper instead of sanding? Skim coating a door
with Bondo and then sanding it smooth is going to make a hell of a mess,
especially with the door still installed in the entrance way.

On Mon, 28 Apr 2014 13:31:34 -0600, PV
wrote:

I am working with a pair of steel entry doors that are in need of a
facelift. There are chips and strips of paint missing (from ripping
tape off) and old screw holes from old weatherstripping.

How many holes. Will the fix again be covered with new weather
stripping?

I am planning to bondo and sand the hold, but for the paint chips and
strips should I use bondo to "skim coat" or sand down the entire door to
remove the paint and start again?


Using Bondo is an art, so to speak. Unless you've done it and learned
from mistakes, it may not be a good idea in an obvious eye level view.
Look down the side of a used car and you can see when Bondo was used
improperly. The body has waves in it, not finished correctly.

I can't remove the doors as they are exterior entrance doors


Sure you can. Have some saw horses available?

Any suggestions would be appreciated

Take the door off, sand it with various grits of paper using an
orbital sander. Mostly paint the door in the proper climate
conditions after it is prepared for new paint that is well primed,
cleaned, etc.

- take the door to an auto body paint shop

"PV" wrote in message

I am working with a pair of steel entry doors that are in
need of a facelift. There are chips and strips of paint
missing (from ripping tape off) and old screw holes from
old weatherstripping.
I am planning to bondo and sand the holes, but for the
paint chips and strips should I use bondo to "skim coat"
or sand down the entire door to remove the paint and
start again?

Depends. Are the chips/strips shallow enough that a coat or two of primer
would fill them? If so, I'd spot fill them, sand smooth and then (probably)
prime all, sand as needed, paint. I'm suggesting the primer to fill because
it is easier to sand than Bondo. Another option - better than either - is
glazing putty; not the stuff for glass, that for boats. It is used for the
precise purpose of filling shallow imperfections.

Come to think of it, there is auto glazing putty too, available at any NAPA
store. It is essentially the same solids as Bondo but in a lacquer base
rather than polyester resin, comes in tubes, around $10-$15 for a largish
tube. Sands like butter.

If too deep, use Bondo, sand, then prime sand and paint

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Mon, 28 Apr 2014 18:35:39 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:


Depends. Are the chips/strips shallow enough that a coat or two of primer
would fill them? If so, I'd spot fill them, sand smooth and then (probably)
prime all, sand as needed, paint. I'm suggesting the primer to fill because
it is easier to sand than Bondo. Another option - better than either - is
glazing putty; not the stuff for glass, that for boats. It is used for the
precise purpose of filling shallow imperfections.

Come to think of it, there is auto glazing putty too, available at any NAPA
store. It is essentially the same solids as Bondo but in a lacquer base
rather than polyester resin, comes in tubes, around $10-$15 for a largish
tube. Sands like butter.

If too deep, use Bondo, sand, then prime sand and paint

Glazing putty is the best way to eliminate imperfections, if Bondo is
used. "Sands like butter."

On 4/28/2014 3:31 PM, PV wrote:
I am working with a pair of steel entry doors that are in need of a
facelift. There are chips and strips of paint missing (from ripping
tape off) and old screw holes from old weatherstripping.

I am planning to bondo and sand the hold, but for the paint chips and
strips should I use bondo to "skim coat" or sand down the entire door to
remove the paint and start again?

I can't remove the doors as they are exterior entrance doors

Any suggestions would be appreciated

I had double steel doors in my last house. They had a window in the
upper half. When I came into some really nice antique leaded stained
glass bookshelf doors, I wanted to install them. The were a little
longer than the original windows. In the lower half of the door there
were plastic do-dads where the plastic was pinned into holes in the
steel. The new window were bigger, but didn't cover all the holes and
other imperfections. I used bondo (for the 1st time ever in my life) to
fill the holes and some imperfects. I remember it going pretty easy.
And I remember the sanding going easy too. It looked great; we really
loved it. I don't thing the new owners really appreciated it that much
as they put curtains over the inside. Yuck! Of course, because leaded
stained glass is not that great against weather, I put another clear
glass window on the outside, so it still looked great from the inside.

On 4/28/2014 1:46 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
PV wrote:
I am working with a pair of steel entry doors that are in need of a
facelift. There are chips and strips of paint missing (from ripping tape
off) and old screw holes from old weatherstripping.

I am planning to bondo and sand the hold, but for the paint chips and
strips should I use bondo to "skim coat" or sand down the entire door to
remove the paint and start again?

I can't remove the doors as they are exterior entrance doors

Any suggestions would be appreciated


Well, you _could_ remove the doors and temporarily install anything from a
used door to a sheet of plywood cut to fit. I guess it all matters on
whether you care how it looks for the time you'd need to strip the doors
properly and repaint.

Security might be an issue, but I hope that you don't live someplace where
the substitution of door for a day or two would guarantee a home invasion.

Have you considered using stripper instead of sanding? Skim coating a door
with Bondo and then sanding it smooth is going to make a hell of a mess,
especially with the door still installed in the entrance way.


I won't respond to every reply but thank you all for your input.

This is a Church and theses are the main entry doors so it's a weekend,
after hours project so door removal is not an option.

The stripper idea is one I hadn't thought of, so perhaps a day per door
to strip and prep? The holes from the old weatherstripping are there
because the new stripping didn't line up. So either glazing putty or
bondo for those parts.

I will let you know how the project progresses

--
PV

PV wrote:

....snip...

I won't respond to every reply but thank you all for your input.

This is a Church and theses are the main entry doors so it's a weekend,
after hours project so door removal is not an option.

I still don't see why removing the doors isn't an option. House, church,
school, whatever. Temporary doors can be fashioned fairly quickly and
secured in a variety of ways.

This might be overkill, but it gets the point across...

http://www.catholicnewworld.com/cnwo.../images/f1.jpg

On 4/28/2014 3:31 PM, PV wrote:
I am working with a pair of steel entry doors that are in need of a
facelift. There are chips and strips of paint missing (from ripping
tape off) and old screw holes from old weatherstripping.

I am planning to bondo and sand the hold, but for the paint chips and
strips should I use bondo to "skim coat" or sand down the entire door to
remove the paint and start again?

I can't remove the doors as they are exterior entrance doors

Any suggestions would be appreciated

Can't get someone to watch the house, while
each step is performed?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Tue, 29 Apr 2014 21:44:01 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

PV wrote:

...snip...

I won't respond to every reply but thank you all for your input.

This is a Church and theses are the main entry doors so it's a weekend,
after hours project so door removal is not an option.

I still don't see why removing the doors isn't an option. House, church,
school, whatever. Temporary doors can be fashioned fairly quickly and
secured in a variety of ways.

This might be overkill, but it gets the point across...

http://www.catholicnewworld.com/cnwo.../images/f1.jpg

I agree. It seems to me the OP is trying to repair the doors all by
himself. I'm certain members of the congregation could come together
and do the job in short order.

Maybe have a meal made by some members. Ever see the Amish have a
'barn rasping"? Barn structures built in a day. And the kids get to
play...

On Tue, 29 Apr 2014 17:47:43 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

I can't remove the doors as they are exterior entrance doors

Any suggestions would be appreciated

Can't get someone to watch the house, while
each step is performed?

Praise Jesus!

On Tue, 29 Apr 2014 07:59:21 -0600, PV
wrote:

On 4/28/2014 1:46 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
PV wrote:
I am working with a pair of steel entry doors that are in need of a
facelift. There are chips and strips of paint missing (from ripping tape
off) and old screw holes from old weatherstripping.

I am planning to bondo and sand the hold, but for the paint chips and
strips should I use bondo to "skim coat" or sand down the entire door to
remove the paint and start again?

I can't remove the doors as they are exterior entrance doors

Any suggestions would be appreciated


Well, you _could_ remove the doors and temporarily install anything from a
used door to a sheet of plywood cut to fit. I guess it all matters on
whether you care how it looks for the time you'd need to strip the doors
properly and repaint.

Security might be an issue, but I hope that you don't live someplace where
the substitution of door for a day or two would guarantee a home invasion.

Have you considered using stripper instead of sanding? Skim coating a door
with Bondo and then sanding it smooth is going to make a hell of a mess,
especially with the door still installed in the entrance way.


I won't respond to every reply but thank you all for your input.

This is a Church and theses are the main entry doors so it's a weekend,
after hours project so door removal is not an option.

The stripper idea is one I hadn't thought of, so perhaps a day per door
to strip and prep? The holes from the old weatherstripping are there
because the new stripping didn't line up. So either glazing putty or
bondo for those parts.

I will let you know how the project progresses
I would JB weld the holes. Or possibly epoxy - not polyester resin
body filler. It is not waterproof. Titto for glazing putty.

Oren wrote:
On Tue, 29 Apr 2014 21:44:01 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

PV wrote:

...snip...

I won't respond to every reply but thank you all for your input.

This is a Church and theses are the main entry doors so it's a weekend,
after hours project so door removal is not an option.

I still don't see why removing the doors isn't an option. House, church,
school, whatever. Temporary doors can be fashioned fairly quickly and
secured in a variety of ways.

This might be overkill, but it gets the point across...

http://www.catholicnewworld.com/cnwo.../images/f1.jpg

I agree. It seems to me the OP is trying to repair the doors all by
himself. I'm certain members of the congregation could come together
and do the job in short order.

Maybe have a meal made by some members. Ever see the Amish have a
'barn rasping"? Barn structures built in a day. And the kids get to
play...

I had some friends who bought land near Cooperstown, NY (home of the
Baseball Hall Of Fame). About 20 years ago they wanted a cabin built on the
land. They sent out letters to friends and family across the country saying
that they would be camping on the land during the upcoming summer and
inviting everyone to come down and help build.

A year earlier he had a forester come in with a portable saw mill who cut
all the wood he needed for the 2 story cabin.

My family went down for a couple of weeks and we had the best vacation
we've ever had. When we got there the raised platform had been built. When
we left they were shingling the roof. The exterior and roof sheathing was
all done with 1x6 material. Lots of cutting and nailing.

Every morning the women made us a huge breakfast and afterwards the men
would walk the 1/4 mile to the build site. The kids swam in mud ponds,
nights were spent with guitars and other various instruments around the
camp fire. Naturally we burnt all the cutoffs from the build.

Did I mention that it was the best vacation I ever took?

On Tue, 29 Apr 2014 21:35:00 -0400, wrote:


I will let you know how the project progresses

I would JB weld the holes. Or possibly epoxy - not polyester resin
body filler. It is not waterproof. Titto for glazing putty.

Correct. The OP plans to paint the door (s). Primer and paint will
seal the bondo or glazing putty. I see no concern with moisture,
unless done improperly.

On Wed, 30 Apr 2014 01:48:59 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Oren wrote:
On Tue, 29 Apr 2014 21:44:01 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

PV wrote:

...snip...

I won't respond to every reply but thank you all for your input.

This is a Church and theses are the main entry doors so it's a weekend,
after hours project so door removal is not an option.

I still don't see why removing the doors isn't an option. House, church,
school, whatever. Temporary doors can be fashioned fairly quickly and
secured in a variety of ways.

This might be overkill, but it gets the point across...

http://www.catholicnewworld.com/cnwo.../images/f1.jpg

I agree. It seems to me the OP is trying to repair the doors all by
himself. I'm certain members of the congregation could come together
and do the job in short order.

Maybe have a meal made by some members. Ever see the Amish have a
'barn rasping"? Barn structures built in a day. And the kids get to
play...

I had some friends who bought land near Cooperstown, NY (home of the
Baseball Hall Of Fame). About 20 years ago they wanted a cabin built on the
land. They sent out letters to friends and family across the country saying
that they would be camping on the land during the upcoming summer and
inviting everyone to come down and help build.

A year earlier he had a forester come in with a portable saw mill who cut
all the wood he needed for the 2 story cabin.

My family went down for a couple of weeks and we had the best vacation
we've ever had. When we got there the raised platform had been built. When
we left they were shingling the roof. The exterior and roof sheathing was
all done with 1x6 material. Lots of cutting and nailing.

Every morning the women made us a huge breakfast and afterwards the men
would walk the 1/4 mile to the build site. The kids swam in mud ponds,
nights were spent with guitars and other various instruments around the
camp fire. Naturally we burnt all the cutoffs from the build.

Did I mention that it was the best vacation I ever took?

Yes. The only thing missing is your photo of the wide open outhouse
facing the majestic scenery from a hillside.

I know I saw it one time...

On Tue, 29 Apr 2014 19:16:26 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 29 Apr 2014 21:35:00 -0400, wrote:


I will let you know how the project progresses

I would JB weld the holes. Or possibly epoxy - not polyester resin
body filler. It is not waterproof. Titto for glazing putty.

Correct. The OP plans to paint the door (s). Primer and paint will
seal the bondo or glazing putty. I see no concern with moisture,
unless done improperly.
As long as no moisture gets INSIDE the door. If it does, it WILL pop
the bondo. Bondo is for filling dents, not holes.

wrote:
On Tue, 29 Apr 2014 19:16:26 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 29 Apr 2014 21:35:00 -0400, wrote:


I will let you know how the project progresses

I would JB weld the holes. Or possibly epoxy - not polyester resin
body filler. It is not waterproof. Titto for glazing putty.

Correct. The OP plans to paint the door (s). Primer and paint will
seal the bondo or glazing putty. I see no concern with moisture,
unless done improperly.
As long as no moisture gets INSIDE the door. If it does, it WILL pop
the bondo. Bondo is for filling dents, not holes.

Bondo can also be used to fill the gap between a piece of drywall that was
cut too short to reach the ceiling. It dries fast enough to be sanded,
primed and painted all in one afternoon. DAMHIKT

On Tue, 29 Apr 2014 22:37:59 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 29 Apr 2014 19:16:26 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 29 Apr 2014 21:35:00 -0400, wrote:


I will let you know how the project progresses

I would JB weld the holes. Or possibly epoxy - not polyester resin
body filler. It is not waterproof. Titto for glazing putty.

Correct. The OP plans to paint the door (s). Primer and paint will
seal the bondo or glazing putty. I see no concern with moisture,
unless done improperly.

As long as no moisture gets INSIDE the door. If it does, it WILL pop
the bondo. Bondo is for filling dents, not holes.

True. Weld the hole closed in the metal and seal the outside finish.

wrote:

....snip...

I would JB weld the holes. Or possibly epoxy - not polyester resin
body filler. It is not waterproof. Titto for glazing putty.

Why can't polyester resin be used for a door when it can be used for boat
hulls?

http://www.uscomposites.com/polyesters.html

Once it's painted/sealed water should not be a problem. Ditto for glazing
putty.

On Wed, 30 Apr 2014 02:52:50 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Bondo can also be used to fill the gap between a piece of drywall that was
cut too short to reach the ceiling. It dries fast enough to be sanded,
primed and painted all in one afternoon. DAMHIKT

Did you run out of drywall compound and tape or just need some
practice on drywall finishing?

On Tue, 29 Apr 2014 19:54:08 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 29 Apr 2014 22:37:59 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 29 Apr 2014 19:16:26 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 29 Apr 2014 21:35:00 -0400, wrote:


I will let you know how the project progresses

I would JB weld the holes. Or possibly epoxy - not polyester resin
body filler. It is not waterproof. Titto for glazing putty.

Correct. The OP plans to paint the door (s). Primer and paint will
seal the bondo or glazing putty. I see no concern with moisture,
unless done improperly.

As long as no moisture gets INSIDE the door. If it does, it WILL pop
the bondo. Bondo is for filling dents, not holes.

True. Weld the hole closed in the metal and seal the outside finish.
Difficult to weld a foam core steel door

On Wed, 30 Apr 2014 03:06:52 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

wrote:

...snip...

I would JB weld the holes. Or possibly epoxy - not polyester resin
body filler. It is not waterproof. Titto for glazing putty.

Why can't polyester resin be used for a door when it can be used for boat
hulls?

http://www.uscomposites.com/polyesters.html

Once it's painted/sealed water should not be a problem. Ditto for glazing
putty.
Polyester resin and fiberglass is different than polyester resin and
talc or whatever they use in Bondo as filler. I've used bondo on lots
of cars - if the steel is not sealed well, moisture behind causes it
to pop, eventually.

On Tue, 29 Apr 2014 21:27:08 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Wed, 30 Apr 2014 02:52:50 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Bondo can also be used to fill the gap between a piece of drywall that was
cut too short to reach the ceiling. It dries fast enough to be sanded,
primed and painted all in one afternoon. DAMHIKT

Did you run out of drywall compound and tape or just need some
practice on drywall finishing?
For filling holes you want setting type compound - which is nasty to
sand.

On 4/29/2014 7:17 PM, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 29 Apr 2014 17:47:43 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

I can't remove the doors as they are exterior entrance doors

Any suggestions would be appreciated

Can't get someone to watch the house, while
each step is performed?

Praise Jesus!

Maybe not for solid doors "HOLLOW-leiujah".

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


Oren wrote:
On Tue, 29 Apr 2014 21:44:01 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

PV wrote:

...snip...

I won't respond to every reply but thank you all for your input.

This is a Church and theses are the main entry doors so it's a weekend,
after hours project so door removal is not an option.

I still don't see why removing the doors isn't an option. House, church,
school, whatever. Temporary doors can be fashioned fairly quickly and
secured in a variety of ways.

This might be overkill, but it gets the point across...

http://www.catholicnewworld.com/cnwo.../images/f1.jpg

I agree. It seems to me the OP is trying to repair the doors all by
himself. I'm certain members of the congregation could come together
and do the job in short order.

Maybe have a meal made by some members. Ever see the Amish have a
'barn rasping"? Barn structures built in a day. And the kids get to
play...

I had some friends who bought land near Cooperstown, NY (home of the
Baseball Hall Of Fame). About 20 years ago they wanted a cabin built on the
land. They sent out letters to friends and family across the country saying
that they would be camping on the land during the upcoming summer and
inviting everyone to come down and help build.

A year earlier he had a forester come in with a portable saw mill who cut
all the wood he needed for the 2 story cabin.

My family went down for a couple of weeks and we had the best vacation
we've ever had. When we got there the raised platform had been built. When
we left they were shingling the roof. The exterior and roof sheathing was
all done with 1x6 material. Lots of cutting and nailing.

Every morning the women made us a huge breakfast and afterwards the men
would walk the 1/4 mile to the build site. The kids swam in mud ponds,
nights were spent with guitars and other various instruments around the
camp fire. Naturally we burnt all the cutoffs from the build.

Did I mention that it was the best vacation I ever took?

Hey DDzero3 who cares? Are you checking my posts?

--
Tekkie