Hi there

The mortice lock in my wooden door is a 2 lever with a handle attached. I want to put in a 5 lever one. No problem with the actual fitting, however the screw holes are in different places meaning I can't screw in the new one because there is nothing to screw into.

How can I resolve this?

thanks

Denise

On 4/27/2014 9:56 AM, wrote:
Hi there

The mortice lock in my wooden door is a 2 lever with a handle
attached. I want to put in a 5 lever one. No problem with the actual
fitting, however the screw holes are in different places meaning I
can'tscrew in the new one because there is nothing to screw into.

How can I resolve this?

Fill in the old locations with cutouts from the new. Since the holesaw
will leave them a little small owing to its kerf you'll need to make
some shims to fit them. Wide masking tape around the outer edge and
then setting w/ epoxy will leave a solid-enough patch to hold.

--

On Sunday, 27 April 2014 16:25:45 UTC+1, dpb wrote:
On 4/27/2014 9:56 AM,

Hi there



The mortice lock in my wooden door is a 2 lever with a handle

attached. I want to put in a 5 lever one. No problem with the actual

fitting, however the screw holes are in different places meaning I

can'tscrew in the new one because there is nothing to screw into.



How can I resolve this?



Fill in the old locations with cutouts from the new. Since the holesaw

will leave them a little small owing to its kerf you'll need to make

some shims to fit them. Wide masking tape around the outer edge and

then setting w/ epoxy will leave a solid-enough patch to hold.



--

Thanks - but I'm fitting new lock into existing hole. That bit fits just fine, it's the screw holes.

On Sunday, April 27, 2014 9:56:34 AM UTC-5, wrote:
Hi there The mortice lock in my wooden door is a 2 lever with a handle attached. I want to put in a 5 lever one. No problem with the actual fitting, however the screw holes are in different places meaning I can't screw in the new one because there is nothing to screw into. How can I resolve this? thanks Denise

Sawdust mixed with epoxy will set up in a couple of hours using quick-setting epoxy. You can also use sawdust mixed with "Elmers Glue, or a similatr white glue. That will take 24 houres to set up. The sawdust/epoxy is the best. Even using quick-setting epoxy, wait 4x their recommended times just to ensure it is really set up. The sawdust makes it easier to cut later on, and also helps the mixture to hold its shape while setting up. This is a good wood-filling idea where you don't care aboutr the appearance too much. Of course, aftrer setting up, you sand and paint the final product.

| Fill in the old locations with cutouts from the new. Since the holesaw
|
| will leave them a little small owing to its kerf you'll need to make
|
| some shims to fit them. Wide masking tape around the outer edge and
|
| then setting w/ epoxy will leave a solid-enough patch to hold.
|

| Thanks - but I'm fitting new lock into existing hole. That bit fits just
fine, it's the screw holes.

I think dpb was assuming locks the same size, but the
idea still holds. If the hole for the old lock extends to where
the new lock's faceplate screws go, you need to fill. The
only really good way to do that is to glue in a plug, as
close as poosible to the size of the existing hole. Then
fill around that with Bondo, so that you have a full
strength patch. Then re-drill for the new lock or passage
set. You might be able to just glue in a small plug for
the screws, but there's a good chance that won't work.

On Sunday, 27 April 2014 16:45:19 UTC+1, wrote:
On Sunday, April 27, 2014 9:56:34 AM UTC-5, wrote:

Hi there The mortice lock in my wooden door is a 2 lever with a handle attached. I want to put in a 5 lever one. No problem with the actual fitting, however the screw holes are in different places meaning I can't screw in the new one because there is nothing to screw into. How can I resolve this? thanks Denise



Sawdust mixed with epoxy will set up in a couple of hours using quick-setting epoxy. You can also use sawdust mixed with "Elmers Glue, or a similatr white glue. That will take 24 houres to set up. The sawdust/epoxy is the best. Even using quick-setting epoxy, wait 4x their recommended times just to ensure it is really set up. The sawdust makes it easier to cut later on, and also helps the mixture to hold its shape while setting up. This is a good wood-filling idea where you don't care aboutr the appearance too much. Of course, aftrer setting up, you sand and paint the final product.


Many thanks for your reply I will try this. I'm not fussed what it looks like, just so long as it is secure.

On 4/27/2014 10:44 AM, pendle666 wrote:
....
Fill in the old locations with cutouts from the new. ...

Thanks - but I'm fitting new lock into existing hole. That bit fits
just fine, it's the screw holes.

Oh, wrong holes...

OK, again you need to fill them.

What works well for the purpose actually that is pretty simple is wooden
match sticks w/ an epoxy (actually, even just carpenters yellow glue
will work but the epoxy will leave a somewhat harder end result).

Take two or three, whatever you can get into the hole and just drive
them in solidly using a small hammer. Fill the hole w/ some epoxy
first, of course. Leave a little protrusion for trimming after dries
and voila! new screws can be started. It's handy at this point if one
has one of the Vix or similar self-centering bits to aid in the
alignment to get the holes centered but care w/ an ice pick or similar
sharp punch will work well enough if don't have one or want to invest.

--

Denise:

What you're running up against is common when it comes to locks. Often the screwholes for mounting locks and latches in wooden doors are stripped, and you've got nothing to drive the new screws into.

One option is to simply use longer screws.

What I've found also works very well to solve these problems is Loctite E-20HP:

Loctite 29314 - Loctite E-20HP

Loctite E-20HP is an epoxy that comes in a two barrel tube. It takes a special gun to push the epoxy out of that tube, and it flows through a mixing nozzle so that the epoxy coming out of the end of the mixing nozzle is fully mixed. The special applicator gun is Loctite product #98472 and costs about $40 and whomever sells the gun will sell the mixing nozzles for about $2 each.

Quick Supply of Specialty Adhesives, Chemicals, Coatings, and Lubricants, MALAYSIA: High Performance Adhesive for OEM : Loctite Hysol E - 20HP

E-20HP is a "toughened" epoxy, which means that it sticks just as well as any other epoxy, but it cures to form a product that's identical to wood in many respects. The cured epoxy can be drilled and will hold a screw just as well as wood will. So, you simply fill the holes you have with E-20HP, allow a day or two for the epoxy to cure, and then drill into the epoxy and drive your screws just like you were drilling and driving screws into wood.

Loctite E-20HP is a DIY'ers Godsend because it allows the DIY'er to repair stripped screw holes in wood and PVC. The cured E-20HP is similar to wood in most respects in that it's about the same hardness and toughness as wood. It can't be stained tho.

"Mayayana" wrote:
| Fill in the old locations with cutouts from the new. Since the holesaw
|
| will leave them a little small owing to its kerf you'll need to make
|
| some shims to fit them. Wide masking tape around the outer edge and
|
| then setting w/ epoxy will leave a solid-enough patch to hold.
|

| Thanks - but I'm fitting new lock into existing hole. That bit fits just
fine, it's the screw holes.

I think dpb was assuming locks the same size, but the
idea still holds. If the hole for the old lock extends to where
the new lock's faceplate screws go, you need to fill. The
only really good way to do that is to glue in a plug, as
close as poosible to the size of the existing hole. Then
fill around that with Bondo, so that you have a full
strength patch.

It's sometimes better to make the hole fit the patch instead of trying to
make the patch fit the hole.

When possible, I'll drill out a stripped or oversized screw hole with the
correct bit for whatever size dowel I think is required. Drill a clean
hole, apply glue to the dowel and pound it in. Now you a solid piece of
wood to screw into.


Then re-drill for the new lock or passage
set. You might be able to just glue in a small plug for
the screws, but there's a good chance that won't work.

On 4/27/2014 10:56 AM, wrote:
Hi there

The mortice lock in my wooden door is a 2 lever
with a handle attached. I want to put in a 5 lever
one. No problem with the actual fitting, however
the screw holes are in different places meaning I
can't screw in the new one because there is nothing
to screw into.

How can I resolve this?

thanks

Denise

I'd like to see some pictures, or URL to what
we are talking about. What is a 2 lever, and
what is a 5 lever? I've been installing locks
for 25+ years, and not familiar with these
terms. What brands are the new and old locks?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Sun, 27 Apr 2014 21:16:11 +0200, nestork
wrote:


Denise:

What you're running up against is common when it comes to locks. Often
the screwholes for mounting locks and latches in wooden doors are
stripped, and you've got nothing to drive the new screws into.

What I've found works very well to solve these problems is Loctite
E-20HP:

'Loctite 29314 - Loctite E-20HP'
(http://www.strobelssupply.com/Loctite?product_id=200723)

Loctite E-20HP is an epoxy that comes in a two barrel tube. It takes a
special gun to push the epoxy out of that tube, and it flows through a

Does it really requre the special gun? I think that is a productivity
tool that would make it easy or at least tolerable to be squeezing glue
out all day, because it works like a caulking gun and doesn't take too
much effort from one's thumbs all day long.

I have the holder/gun. It was in a tool box I found in the trash in an
industrial park, wrapped around a container of epoxy, which looks just
like the epoxy that is sold to consumers, except that the top of the
tube is cut off flat so that it fits in the gun.

Looking at the items in https://www.google.com/#q=loctite+e-20hp it is
hard to tell by looking, but it seems maybe like these cotainers don't
have caps, in case one uses part but not all of the product in a given
session. This is why I save all of my caps (and my aerosol nozzles,
too), in case I loose one and need a spare. I'll bet I have caps that
fit, but I can't be sure. Do they really come without caps?

mixing nozzle so that the epoxy coming out of the end of the mixing

They also include mixing nozzles with consumer-grade epoxy, but I never
use them. It seems to me that a lot of the product will get left
behind in the nozzle, with no way to use it, so I sqeeze out the stuff
onto a scrap piece of metal, or more likely glossy cardboard, and mix it
up with a wooden kitchen-size match** or when I don't have that, a
screwdriver.

It seems to me the mixing nozzle is of even less use unless one is going
to use the entire container's worth in one shot, because after it mixes
in the nozzle and hardens there, it can't even be removed from the
nozzle, so for the rest of the tube, there will be no mixing nozzle to
use.

nozzle is fully mixed. The special applicator gun is Loctite product
#98472 and costs about $40 and whomever sells the gun will sell the
mixing nozzles for about $2 each.

I didn't know they were sold separately, but nevertheless, they just
waste epoxy afaic, and certainly are not required.

If I had men who were paid 20 dollars an hour or more doing this, I'd
want the most efficient methods used and I wouldn't want to be quibbling
about a little glue one way or the other, but when people do this at
home, they're usually plenty slow anyhow, and rarely use a whole tube at
once.

It IS IMPORTANT to mix the two parts throoughly or it won't set in the
parts that aren't well mixed, ever, and it's important to use the same
amount of A and B, or it may well never set. If the plunger for the A
tube goes in farther than the other, one should push in plunger B some
more and even out the plungers, before ending one's dispensing.

Before that, one should let the dispenser sit nose up for a while until
all the air in the tubes is at the top, so one won't be squeezing out
product in one tube and air in the other. I think that would be a good
idea even with the mixing nozzle.

'Quick Supply of Specialty Adhesives, Chemicals, Coatings, and
Lubricants, MALAYSIA: High Performance Adhesive for OEM : Loctite Hysol
E - 20HP' (http://tinyurl.com/ledpb68)

E-20HP is a "toughened" epoxy, which means that it sticks just as well
as any other epoxy, but it cures to form a product that's identical to
wood in many respects. The cured epoxy can be drilled and will hold a
screw just as well as wood will. So, you simply fill the holes you have
with E-20HP, allow a day or two for the epoxy to cure, and then drill
into the epoxy and drive your screws just like you were drilling and
driving screws into wood.

Loctite E-20HP is a DIY'ers Godsend because it allows the DIY'er to
repair stripped screw holes in wood and PVC.

For stripped holes in wood, I usually use wooden kitchen matches, or
oxcasionally wooden toopicks, flat or even round ones. (round ones are
made from harder wood, but the ends are so thin, they usually need to be
broken off.) These wood fillers are always enough to hold the screw in
with at least moderate strength and with a mortice lock, I think the
force applied by someone trying to break in will be perpendicular to the
screw, plus tthere will be no room for the screw to pop out, since that
space above the screw will be between the screwhole and either the door
or the door frame.*** I've never had an occasion with PVC, but I can
imagine when one wants the hole entirely filled and this product sounds
very good. But if I'm not going to work with it for several hours at
a stretch, I'd need a very good other reason to buy the gun.

***One time someone did kick in my front door, and he did that by a
combination of breaking the door itself, and breaking the door frame.

They sell a brass plate, bent like a U with a flat bottom, with holes
for the doorknob to reinforce the door at the door knob, and another one
to reinforce the door at the deadbolt keyhole. I recommend them.

I also used the longest screws I could find in the door frame to reach
the stud beyond the each of the frame. Details of that depend on how
that wall was framed.

For all this, I think the door could be kicked open again. I also
installed a burglar alarm.

The cured E-20HP is
similar to wood in most respects in that it's about the same hardness
and toughness as wood. It can't be stained tho.

posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


Hi there

The mortice lock in my wooden door is a 2 lever with a handle attached. I want to put in a 5 lever one. No problem with the actual fitting, however the screw holes are in different places meaning I can't screw in the new one because there is nothing to screw into.

How can I resolve this?

thanks

Denise

Wooden dowels glued in place. Really hold.

--
Tekkie

Tekkie® wrote:
posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


Hi there

The mortice lock in my wooden door is a 2 lever with a handle attached.
I want to put in a 5 lever one. No problem with the actual fitting,
however the screw holes are in different places meaning I can't screw in
the new one because there is nothing to screw into.

How can I resolve this?

thanks

Denise

Wooden dowels glued in place. Really hold.


Hmm....that sounds really familiar. I wonder if I said the same thing about
45 hours ago.

DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


Tekkie® wrote:
posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


Hi there

The mortice lock in my wooden door is a 2 lever with a handle attached..
I want to put in a 5 lever one. No problem with the actual fitting,
however the screw holes are in different places meaning I can't screw in
the new one because there is nothing to screw into.

How can I resolve this?

thanks

Denise

Wooden dowels glued in place. Really hold.


Hmm....that sounds really familiar. I wonder if I said the same thing about
45 hours ago.

EXCUSE ME for disturbing sense of decorum but I don't read postings every
day. Did you go back and look at previous posts to yours and see if anyone
else posted the same thing? I am glad you are keeping watch over me
occupying your time so you can't make any more useless posts.

--
Tekkie

On 5/1/2014 7:25 PM, Tekkie® wrote:
DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...
Hmm....that sounds really familiar. I wonder if I said the same thing about
45 hours ago.

EXCUSE ME for disturbing sense of decorum but I don't read postings every
day. Did you go back and look at previous posts to yours and see if anyone
else posted the same thing? I am glad you are keeping watch over me
occupying your time so you can't make any more useless posts.

You putting up with that? What with this "about"
stuff, should insist on exact hours and minutes.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Mickey:

Yes, you really do need the special dispenser gun. If you look closely at the E-20HP cartridge, you'll notice that one of the two barrels is larger than the other. The gun comes with two different kinds of plungers; one with both plungers the same diameter and one with one plunger larger than the other. The E-20HP requires that you use the plunger with the 2:1 mixing ratio. If you simply put a stick into each plunger and push out a certain amount of resin and hardener, you have no way of knowing that the volumes are in a 2:1 ratio except by guesstimation. Using the 2:1 plunger in the dispensing gun assures that the product is dispensed in a 2:1 ratio.

The E-20HP cartridge comes with a cap that seals off the end of the resin and hardener barrels simultaneously.

The point you make about some of the product being wasted in the mixing nozzle is valid, but a the amount of resin and hardener wasted is small, and the dispensing gun and mixing nozzle make using this epoxy much easier and neater and therefore worth the 3 to 4 dollars spent on the mixing nozzle and wasted product. 3 to 4 dollars isn't much nowadays. There are restaurants in Winnipeg that charge that much for a coffee, and they expect a tip for the waitress too.

nestork posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


Mickey:

Yes, you really do need the special dispenser gun. If you look closely
at the E-20HP cartridge, you'll notice that one of the two barrels is
larger than the other. The gun comes with two different kinds of
plungers; one with both plungers the same diameter and one with one
plunger larger than the other. The E-20HP requires that you use the
plunger with the 2:1 mixing ratio. If you simply put a stick into each
plunger and push out a certain amount of resin and hardener, you have no
way of knowing that the volumes are in a 2:1 ratio except by
guesstimation. Using the 2:1 plunger in the dispensing gun assures that
the product is dispensed in a 2:1 ratio.

The E-20HP cartridge comes with a cap that seals off the end of the
resin and hardener barrels simultaneously.

The point you make about some of the product being wasted in the mixing
nozzle is valid, but a the amount of resin and hardener wasted is small,
and the dispensing gun and mixing nozzle make using this epoxy much
easier and neater and therefore worth the 3 to 4 dollars spent on the
mixing nozzle and wasted product. 3 to 4 dollars isn't much nowadays.
There are restaurants in Winnipeg that charge that much for a coffee,
and they expect a tip for the waitress too.

Do they have the 2:1 mixing chamber and can plunge in?

--
Tekkie