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Default Humidifier and vapor question

In my three bedroom trailer, I've got a floor model
humidifier. I have to feed it at least two gal of
water d ay, to keep the indoor air comfortable.
Maybe even more than that.

From my old fire science days, I remember that water
vaporizes, and increases 1800 times volume.

That means I'm putting 3600 gal a day of vapor into
my trailer. Some condenses on the inside of windows,
but not two gal per day worth. I wonder where the
rest of that vapor goes? I don't have any windows
cranked open, and I'm not holding the door open all
day.

Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and
heat loss?

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On Wednesday, January 22, 2014 9:11:55 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
In my three bedroom trailer, I've got a floor model

humidifier. I have to feed it at least two gal of

water d ay, to keep the indoor air comfortable.

Maybe even more than that.



From my old fire science days, I remember that water

vaporizes, and increases 1800 times volume.



That means I'm putting 3600 gal a day of vapor into

my trailer. Some condenses on the inside of windows,

but not two gal per day worth. I wonder where the

rest of that vapor goes? I don't have any windows

cranked open, and I'm not holding the door open all

day.



Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and

heat loss?



--

.

Christopher A. Young

Learn about Jesus

www.lds.org

.


I would think a lot of it is lost via air leakage. Cold, dry outside
air makes it's way inside, replacing warm moist air. Where does
combustion air for furnace, WH, etc come from? New furnaces typically
use a vent pipe going outside, while old furnaces use the building
air around the furnace. If it's condensing
on the windows, the humidity is too high. The indoor humidity should
be adjusted down as the outside temps drop. My furnace humidifier has
an outside temp sensor to do that automatically.
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On 1/22/2014 6:11 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
In my three bedroom trailer, I've got a floor model
humidifier. I have to feed it at least two gal of
water d ay, to keep the indoor air comfortable.
Maybe even more than that.

From my old fire science days, I remember that water
vaporizes, and increases 1800 times volume.

That means I'm putting 3600 gal a day of vapor into
my trailer. Some condenses on the inside of windows,
but not two gal per day worth. I wonder where the
rest of that vapor goes? I don't have any windows
cranked open, and I'm not holding the door open all
day.

Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and
heat loss?

Think about all the air vents you have. Our triple-wide mfg. home, built
1981, has quite a few vents. Kitchen hood vent, two bathroom vents,
cloths dryer vent. All the sinks have vents that suck air from behind
the wall when the water is drained.

Then there are all the openings when plumbing is through the floor. I am
sure there are others. Just look and think.

Paul
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On 1/22/2014 10:20 AM, Paul Drahn wrote:

Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and
heat loss?

Think about all the air vents you have. Our triple-wide mfg. home, built
1981, has quite a few vents. Kitchen hood vent, two bathroom vents,
cloths dryer vent. All the sinks have vents that suck air from behind
the wall when the water is drained.

Then there are all the openings when plumbing is through the floor. I am
sure there are others. Just look and think.

Paul


Thank you, that gave me a bunch of ideas. I do have a clothes dryer hole
in the floor, wonder if it's still there. The vent over the range, has
cardboard stapled over it. Though, it could use some sheet plastic in
addition, I'm sure. Plumbing poke throughs, I'd not even thought of
that. There is still a "stack" flue pipe for the old furnace, I've got
that blocked since I put in a 90 percenter. And the 90 percenter draws
combustion air from under the trailer.

Plenty to think on.

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On Wed, 22 Jan 2014 07:11:55 -0700, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

In my three bedroom trailer, I've got a floor model
humidifier. I have to feed it at least two gal of
water d ay, to keep the indoor air comfortable.
Maybe even more than that.

From my old fire science days, I remember that water
vaporizes, and increases 1800 times volume.

That means I'm putting 3600 gal a day of vapor into
my trailer. Some condenses on the inside of windows,
but not two gal per day worth. I wonder where the
rest of that vapor goes? I don't have any windows
cranked open, and I'm not holding the door open all
day.

Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and
heat loss?


On a calm day, no wind. Fill your trailer with helium. Walk around the
outside with a helium detector. You'll be surprised at all the 'vents'.


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On 1/22/2014 11:40 AM, RobertMacy wrote:

Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and
heat loss?


On a calm day, no wind. Fill your trailer with helium. Walk around the
outside with a helium detector. You'll be surprised at all the 'vents'.


Not sure about the helium detector. But, I do have
a combustible gas detector, for my HVAC work. would
natural gas be better, or propane?
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RobertMacy wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jan 2014 07:11:55 -0700, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

In my three bedroom trailer, I've got a floor model
humidifier. I have to feed it at least two gal of
water d ay, to keep the indoor air comfortable.
Maybe even more than that.

From my old fire science days, I remember that water
vaporizes, and increases 1800 times volume.

That means I'm putting 3600 gal a day of vapor into
my trailer. Some condenses on the inside of windows,
but not two gal per day worth. I wonder where the
rest of that vapor goes? I don't have any windows
cranked open, and I'm not holding the door open all
day.

Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and
heat loss?


On a calm day, no wind. Fill your trailer with helium. Walk around the
outside with a helium detector. You'll be surprised at all the
'vents'.


Maybe just look for "steam" at leaks on a cold day.


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Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 1/22/2014 11:40 AM, RobertMacy wrote:

Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and
heat loss?


On a calm day, no wind. Fill your trailer with helium. Walk around
the outside with a helium detector. You'll be surprised at all the
'vents'.


Not sure about the helium detector. But, I do have
a combustible gas detector, for my HVAC work. would
natural gas be better, or propane?


Ummmm. NO?


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Bob F wrote:
RobertMacy wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jan 2014 07:11:55 -0700, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

In my three bedroom trailer, I've got a floor model
humidifier. I have to feed it at least two gal of
water d ay, to keep the indoor air comfortable.
Maybe even more than that.

From my old fire science days, I remember that water
vaporizes, and increases 1800 times volume.

That means I'm putting 3600 gal a day of vapor into
my trailer. Some condenses on the inside of windows,
but not two gal per day worth. I wonder where the
rest of that vapor goes? I don't have any windows
cranked open, and I'm not holding the door open all
day.

Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and
heat loss?


On a calm day, no wind. Fill your trailer with helium. Walk around
the outside with a helium detector. You'll be surprised at all the
'vents'.


Maybe just look for "steam" at leaks on a cold day.


You could set up a blower to "pressurize" the home. Get the humidity up on the
inside, turn on the blower, then quickly inspect outside for "steam" leaks.
A few pots of water boiling hard might help.


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On Wed, 22 Jan 2014 09:56:44 -0700, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/22/2014 11:40 AM, RobertMacy wrote:

Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and
heat loss?


On a calm day, no wind. Fill your trailer with helium. Walk around the
outside with a helium detector. You'll be surprised at all the 'vents'.


Not sure about the helium detector. But, I do have
a combustible gas detector, for my HVAC work. would
natural gas be better, or propane?



Great idea! That way you can launch pieces out for everyone to examine.
The 'physical' corrolary to posting.


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On Wed, 22 Jan 2014 09:11:55 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

In my three bedroom trailer, I've got a floor model
humidifier. I have to feed it at least two gal of
water d ay, to keep the indoor air comfortable.
Maybe even more than that.

From my old fire science days, I remember that water
vaporizes, and increases 1800 times volume.

That means I'm putting 3600 gal a day of vapor into
my trailer. Some condenses on the inside of windows,
but not two gal per day worth. I wonder where the
rest of that vapor goes? I don't have any windows
cranked open, and I'm not holding the door open all
day.

Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and
heat loss?


It's your drafty redneck bungalow - the vapour and the heat both
escape the same way. The cold extremely dry air that blows in through
the cracks pushes the warm moist air out the other side.

You gotta get a couple of those "quebec garages" I mentioned the other
day to seal the trailer into.
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On Wed, 22 Jan 2014 11:56:44 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/22/2014 11:40 AM, RobertMacy wrote:

Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and
heat loss?


On a calm day, no wind. Fill your trailer with helium. Walk around the
outside with a helium detector. You'll be surprised at all the 'vents'.


Not sure about the helium detector. But, I do have
a combustible gas detector, for my HVAC work. would
natural gas be better, or propane?

Either one, if lit, will solve your humidity problems and your frozen
pipe worries - guaranteed!!

What you want is a smoke generator - then stand out side and watch
where the smoke comes out. Coloured smoke would be more visible - red
or yellow.
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Get one of those infrared thermometers.

I'll bet you'll see a lot of leakage without adding gases to your environment.


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On 1/22/2014 9:01 PM, mike wrote:

That may be the least of your problems.
I'm most comfortable with a dewpoint around 45F inside.
If it's colder than 45F outside, that means that somewhere
inside your walls, it's 45F. And a bunch of that 2 gallons
a day is condensing there.
I'd worry a lot about mold.
Perhaps run an exhaust fan so that the leakage is coming in.
Water won't condense out of air that's warming up.


That's a spooky thought. Might keep me up
at nights. What is that stuff hanging
off the walls, coming to get me?

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On 1/22/2014 10:42 PM, TimR wrote:
Get one of those infrared thermometers.

I'll bet you'll see a lot of leakage without adding gases to your environment.

The fact that you are adding moisture constantly proves you have a huge amount of infiltration (outside air coming in through gaps).

You'd be better off finding and sealing them, then you can add much less water, maybe none.

When we lived in Germany, our house was so tight that with just normal water from breathing, cooking, and the occasional shower, the house would fill with mold if we didn't open windows twice a day. There is plenty of internal humidity generation if you don't lose it all to a leaky house.

I tried walking around with IR thermometer, and check
various points. I probably don't have the technique
right. What I found was that the outside skin of the
trailer was all the same temp, and I couldn't find
much variation indoors. Some power companies offer
infrared thermographs, but I've not gone that far
to call em out.

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On Wednesday, January 22, 2014 9:11:55 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
In my three bedroom trailer, I've got a floor model

humidifier. I have to feed it at least two gal of

water d ay, to keep the indoor air comfortable.

Maybe even more than that.



From my old fire science days, I remember that water

vaporizes, and increases 1800 times volume.



That means I'm putting 3600 gal a day of vapor into

my trailer. Some condenses on the inside of windows,

but not two gal per day worth. I wonder where the

rest of that vapor goes? I don't have any windows

cranked open, and I'm not holding the door open all

day.



Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and

heat loss?



--

.

Christopher A. Young

Learn about Jesus

www.lds.org

.


You are putting two gallons a day in the air. You measure the amount of water in the air as relative humidity, not gallons. If you know the total air volume of you trailer and it's relative humidty before you added the two gallons you could compute the new relative humidty. But it would be easier to just measure it.
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On Thursday, January 23, 2014 7:37:08 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 1/22/2014 10:42 PM, TimR wrote:

Get one of those infrared thermometers.




I'll bet you'll see a lot of leakage without adding gases to your environment.




The fact that you are adding moisture constantly proves you have a huge amount of infiltration (outside air coming in through gaps).




You'd be better off finding and sealing them, then you can add much less water, maybe none.




When we lived in Germany, our house was so tight that with just normal water from breathing, cooking, and the occasional shower, the house would fill with mold if we didn't open windows twice a day. There is plenty of internal humidity generation if you don't lose it all to a leaky house.




I tried walking around with IR thermometer, and check

various points. I probably don't have the technique

right. What I found was that the outside skin of the

trailer was all the same temp, and I couldn't find

much variation indoors. Some power companies offer

infrared thermographs, but I've not gone that far

to call em out.



--

.

Christopher A. Young

Learn about Jesus

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.


In the old days you would get a roll of 35mm infrared film and shoot some pics of the outside of your house on a cold day. I suppose there are infrared digital cameras these days.
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From my old fire science days, I remember that water
vaporizes, and increases 1800 times volume.

That means I'm putting 3600 gal a day of vapor into
my trailer.


No, that's not what it means. Gas volume is very temperature dependent.
This is a complete red herring.
Gas volume isn's additive. If you add 10 gal. of N2,STP and 10 gal. of
o2 you don't get 20 gal. of gas, STP.

Some condenses on the inside of windows,
but not two gal per day worth. I wonder where the
rest of that vapor goes? I don't have any windows
cranked open, and I'm not holding the door open all
day.


All olf the vapor dissolves into the room air.From there it travels
throughout your trailer finding places to hide. Your furniture probably
absorbs a lot of the water.
The air in your home does replenish from outdoors, so water goes there,
as well.


Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and
heat loss?


If you make your house gas tight you will eventually asphysiate due to
lack of Oxygen.

Dave M.





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On Thursday, January 23, 2014 10:22:49 AM UTC-5, David L. Martel wrote:
All olf the vapor dissolves into the room air.From there it travels

throughout your trailer finding places to hide. Your furniture probably

absorbs a lot of the water.


Possible, but I doubt it.

The furniture will come to an equilibrium with the air. Since the air is continually dry despite his humidification efforts, water will likely move from the furniture into the air.

The water he puts into the air is being driven outside almost immediately. There are too many air changes happening. Find and plug the leaks.
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On 1/23/2014 10:19 AM, jamesgang wrote:
On Wednesday, January 22, 2014 9:11:55 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and

heat loss?
Christopher A. Young
.


You are putting two gallons a day in the air. You measure the amount of water in the air as relative humidity, not gallons. If you know the total air volume of you trailer and it's relative humidty before you added the two gallons you could compute the new relative humidty. But it would be easier to just measure it.

The humidity is more comfortable with the water.

So, how does your comment begin to answer what
I asked?

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On 1/23/2014 10:21 AM, jamesgang wrote:

In the old days you would get a roll of 35mm infrared film and shoot some pics of the outside of your house on a cold day. I suppose there are infrared digital cameras these days.


I didn't know that about the film. Neat idea.
Yes, IR cameras exist, but serious expensive.
I've heard some fire departments have them for
finding hot spots in walls, and victims in
situations. I doubt they would loan it to me.

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On 1/23/2014 10:22 AM, David L. Martel wrote:

Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and
heat loss?


If you make your house gas tight you will eventually asphysiate due to
lack of Oxygen.

Dave M.


I think I better think it out, again.


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On 1/23/2014 11:11 AM, TimR wrote:

Possible, but I doubt it.

The furniture will come to an equilibrium with the air. Since the air is continually dry despite his humidification efforts, water will likely move from the furniture into the air.

The water he puts into the air is being driven outside almost immediately. There are too many air changes happening. Find and plug the leaks.


I've been given some interesting ideas, about air
changes. Got to follow up on the information I've
been getting.

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On Thu, 23 Jan 2014 16:26:03 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/23/2014 10:21 AM, jamesgang wrote:

In the old days you would get a roll of 35mm infrared film and shoot some pics of the outside of your house on a cold day. I suppose there are infrared digital cameras these days.


I didn't know that about the film. Neat idea.
Yes, IR cameras exist, but serious expensive.
I've heard some fire departments have them for
finding hot spots in walls, and victims in
situations. I doubt they would loan it to me.

Any home inspector worth his spit has one.

If a home ispector does not have one he's a fraud.
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On 1/22/2014 9:11 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
In my three bedroom trailer, I've got a floor model
humidifier. I have to feed it at least two gal of
water d ay, to keep the indoor air comfortable.
Maybe even more than that.

From my old fire science days, I remember that water
vaporizes, and increases 1800 times volume.

That means I'm putting 3600 gal a day of vapor into
my trailer. Some condenses on the inside of windows,
but not two gal per day worth. I wonder where the
rest of that vapor goes? I don't have any windows
cranked open, and I'm not holding the door open all
day.

Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and
heat loss?


Some of the water vapor may be absorbed by any fabrics you have in your
home. Your carpets, rugs, bedding, clothing in closets, etc., are
getting slightly damper from the humidifier.

I notice it takes a long time for my humidifier to humidify my home.
That's because it first has to "humidify" my wall-to-wall carpets, which
soak up humidity like a sponge. (That's why a great way to humidify a
home is to just shampoo the carpet.)


--
Steven L.
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Stormin Mormon wrote:
In my three bedroom trailer, I've got a floor model
humidifier. I have to feed it at least two gal of
water d ay, to keep the indoor air comfortable.
Maybe even more than that.

From my old fire science days, I remember that water
vaporizes, and increases 1800 times volume.

That means I'm putting 3600 gal a day of vapor into
my trailer. Some condenses on the inside of windows,
but not two gal per day worth. I wonder where the
rest of that vapor goes? I don't have any windows
cranked open, and I'm not holding the door open all
day.

Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and
heat loss?


All that water could be freezing into solid ice in the walls.




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On Thu, 23 Jan 2014 17:15:11 -0800, "Bob F"
wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
In my three bedroom trailer, I've got a floor model
humidifier. I have to feed it at least two gal of
water d ay, to keep the indoor air comfortable.
Maybe even more than that.

From my old fire science days, I remember that water
vaporizes, and increases 1800 times volume.

That means I'm putting 3600 gal a day of vapor into
my trailer. Some condenses on the inside of windows,
but not two gal per day worth. I wonder where the
rest of that vapor goes? I don't have any windows
cranked open, and I'm not holding the door open all
day.

Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and
heat loss?


All that water could be freezing into solid ice in the walls.

Get enough ice in the walls and the wind won't blow through any more.
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On Thu, 23 Jan 2014 21:34:04 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/23/2014 8:05 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jan 2014 18:24:48 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/23/2014 5:37 PM,
wrote:
Any home inspector worth his spit has one.

If a home ispector does not have one he's a fraud.

Judgemental, yet? Let he who hath not
misspelled a word cast the first flame.

A home inspector without an IR camera cannot tell you if there is
moisture problems in a wall, settled or missing insulation, and a
host of other problems that you are paying him to find - that YOU
cannot find with the naked eye. And he cannot either.

Call it judgemental if you want - a home inspector without an IR
camera can NOT do the job you are hiring him for, and calling himself
a "home inspector" is stretching the truth.
Definition of fraud.

I rest my case.


Some how, people inspected homes before IR cameras
came out. I remain skeptical about your judgement.

IR cameras have been around AT LEAST as long as the "home inspector"
"profession"

When you charge to do a job, you do the job to the standard of the
time - making use of the technology available to do the job right. A
home ispector can get a thermal imaging camera for less than $600 - or
a better one for the $1000 range.
Not having one puts you in the bottom of the stack of a somewhat shady
business - to the most part unregulated and untrained charlatons.

If I'm hiring a home inspector, he WILL have the equipment to do the
job. And he WILL have building construction experience and/or
construction technology education.
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Stormin Mormon wrote:
In my three bedroom trailer, I've got a floor model
humidifier. I have to feed it at least two gal of
water d ay, to keep the indoor air comfortable.
Maybe even more than that.

From my old fire science days, I remember that water
vaporizes, and increases 1800 times volume.

That means I'm putting 3600 gal a day of vapor into
my trailer. Some condenses on the inside of windows,
but not two gal per day worth. I wonder where the
rest of that vapor goes? I don't have any windows
cranked open, and I'm not holding the door open all
day.

Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and
heat loss?



I noticed the air is pretty cool over mine. It is a swamp cooler ! I wonder
how much negative btu it taking away ?

I just measured temp differential. It's not that much. 6-7 degrees, but
it's moving a lot of air.

Greg
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On 1/23/2014 11:15 PM, gregz wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
In my three bedroom trailer, I've got a floor model
humidifier. I have to feed it at least two gal of
water d ay, to keep the indoor air comfortable.
Maybe even more than that.

From my old fire science days, I remember that water
vaporizes, and increases 1800 times volume.

That means I'm putting 3600 gal a day of vapor into
my trailer. Some condenses on the inside of windows,
but not two gal per day worth. I wonder where the
rest of that vapor goes? I don't have any windows
cranked open, and I'm not holding the door open all
day.

Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and
heat loss?



I noticed the air is pretty cool over mine. It is a swamp cooler ! I wonder
how much negative btu it taking away ?


You know exactly how many BTU's it takes to vaporize that much water.
Google heat of vaporization.

970.4 BTU/lb ~ 8000 BTU/gallon.
I just measured temp differential. It's not that much. 6-7 degrees, but
it's moving a lot of air.

Greg


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Now that I've stapled up some cardboard,
wonder if I ought to staple up some sheet
plastic as vapor barrier?

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On Friday, January 24, 2014 7:35:23 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Now that I've stapled up some cardboard,

wonder if I ought to staple up some sheet

plastic as vapor barrier?



Nah. Just duct tape over it. You live in a trailer, right?
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On Thursday, January 23, 2014 10:12:21 PM UTC-5, wrote:
When you charge to do a job, you do the job to the standard of the

time - making use of the technology available to do the job right. A

home ispector can get a thermal imaging camera for less than $600 - or

a better one for the $1000 range.


The one we use at work cost $3500.

At times of the year when the inside and outside temperature vary greatly, like the dead of winter or dog day summer, they are very useful. But you have to inspect all year round.

If you need to know infiltration, you have to do a blower test anyway.
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