replying to anoldfart2, Kay wrote:
anoldfart2 wrote:

What do i use to drill a hole in steel door for the knob?
I got a hole saw, but the steel (tin) will destroy the teeth on it.
I know the inside of the door is wood, but the outer covering is
metal. The only way I can see is to drill about 50 small holes around
the needed circle size, but that seems like a pain.
Any suggestions?



I went through my mastercraft bimetal hole saw on my steel door
Then a 15$ one from princess auto then the most expensive one I could find
21$ and still all I get it a but of sparks, some smoke, and my paint
around the hole is
turning brown. I thought I got a good quality hole saw but they aren't
working. The center
Drill went through like butter but the hole saw seems to be just buffing
up the door(lol, jk). I spent
about 15 min trying, any other suggestions?

--

Kay wrote:
replying to anoldfart2, Kay wrote:
anoldfart2 wrote:

What do i use to drill a hole in steel door for the knob?
I got a hole saw, but the steel (tin) will destroy the teeth on it.
I know the inside of the door is wood, but the outer covering is
metal. The only way I can see is to drill about 50 small holes around
the needed circle size, but that seems like a pain.
Any suggestions?



I went through my mastercraft bimetal hole saw on my steel door
Then a 15$ one from princess auto then the most expensive one I could find
21$ and still all I get it a but of sparks, some smoke, and my paint
around the hole is
turning brown. I thought I got a good quality hole saw but they aren't
working. The center Drill went through like butter but the hole saw
seems to be just buffing
up the door(lol, jk). I spent
about 15 min trying, any other suggestions?

Hi,
HD or Lowes will have little more expensive better hole saw for like
~30.00 which will do the job. Also use some oil when you drill.

On Sat, 11 Jan 2014 13:07:11 -0700, Tony Hwang
wrote:

Kay wrote:
replying to anoldfart2, Kay wrote:
anoldfart2 wrote:

What do i use to drill a hole in steel door for the knob?
I got a hole saw, but the steel (tin) will destroy the teeth on it.
I know the inside of the door is wood, but the outer covering is
metal. The only way I can see is to drill about 50 small holes around
the needed circle size, but that seems like a pain.
Any suggestions?



I went through my mastercraft bimetal hole saw on my steel door
Then a 15$ one from princess auto then the most expensive one I could find
21$ and still all I get it a but of sparks, some smoke, and my paint
around the hole is
turning brown. I thought I got a good quality hole saw but they aren't
working. The center Drill went through like butter but the hole saw
seems to be just buffing
up the door(lol, jk). I spent
about 15 min trying, any other suggestions?

Hi,
HD or Lowes will have little more expensive better hole saw for like
~30.00 which will do the job. Also use some oil when you drill.
And you MUST use a low speed drill. Variable speed half inch as slow
as you can turn it, under high pressure so you cut instead of skate.
Lubricant won't hurt. I like TapMatic cutting fluid. Helps to have the
door laying flat so the lube doesnt run away, and so you can really
lean into it.

On 01/11/2014 11:44 AM, Kay wrote:

I went through my mastercraft bimetal hole saw on my steel door
Then a 15$ one from princess auto then the most expensive one I could find
21$ and still all I get it a but of sparks, some smoke, and my paint
around the hole is turning brown.

You're probably not applying enough pressure to actually cut the metal,
but instead running the saw on the metal creating friction, as evidenced
by your paint burning up. You need to put your weight into the drill so
that the teeth can do their job, and not spin the drill too fast when
you do this.

For jobs like this I use a 1/2" chuck drill, because it turns slower
than my regular 3/8" chuck drill.

I can't speak to the quality of mastercraft bimetal hole saws, but I do
know that Lennox makes a reliable one.

Jon

Jon Danniken wrote:
On 01/11/2014 11:44 AM, Kay wrote:

I went through my mastercraft bimetal hole saw on my steel door
Then a 15$ one from princess auto then the most expensive one I could find
21$ and still all I get it a but of sparks, some smoke, and my paint
around the hole is turning brown.

You're probably not applying enough pressure to actually cut the metal,
but instead running the saw on the metal creating friction, as evidenced
by your paint burning up. You need to put your weight into the drill so
that the teeth can do their job, and not spin the drill too fast when
you do this.

For jobs like this I use a 1/2" chuck drill, because it turns slower
than my regular 3/8" chuck drill.

I can't speak to the quality of mastercraft bimetal hole saws, but I do
know that Lennox makes a reliable one.

Jon

Hi,
Ideally drill press is perfect for the job. I am in luck if I need to do
something like that I'd take whole door to my SIL's plant. He
owns/operates precision CAD/CAM machine shop. They have all the heavy
tools operated by machinists or computer. few mins. job.

On Sat, 11 Jan 2014 15:39:42 -0500, wrote:

And you MUST use a low speed drill. Variable speed half inch as slow
as you can turn it, under high pressure so you cut instead of skate.
Lubricant won't hurt. I like TapMatic cutting fluid. Helps to have the
door laying flat so the lube doesnt run away, and so you can really
lean into it.

When I was in the 7th grade, my uncle came over to install a peephole in
the front door, the kind that needs a 2" hole.

He took the door off and put it on the ground. But it was a wooden
door. Wouldn't it have been a lot easier to stand on a box or chair if
needed and just hold the drill horizontal. My mother or I could have
watched to make sure it stayed horizontal

It seemed to me at the time like a lot of exrra work

micky wrote:
On Sat, 11 Jan 2014 15:39:42 -0500, wrote:

And you MUST use a low speed drill. Variable speed half inch as slow
as you can turn it, under high pressure so you cut instead of skate.
Lubricant won't hurt. I like TapMatic cutting fluid. Helps to have the
door laying flat so the lube doesnt run away, and so you can really
lean into it.
When I was in the 7th grade, my uncle came over to install a peephole in
the front door, the kind that needs a 2" hole.

He took the door off and put it on the ground. But it was a wooden
door. Wouldn't it have been a lot easier to stand on a box or chair if
needed and just hold the drill horizontal. My mother or I could have
watched to make sure it stayed horizontal

It seemed to me at the time like a lot of exrra work


From the sound of it, he probably had a hunch that the bottom of the
door hadn't been dusted in a while. So he was able to "kill 2 birds with
one stone'.

In article s.com,
Kay wrote:

replying to anoldfart2, Kay wrote:
anoldfart2 wrote:

What do i use to drill a hole in steel door for the knob?
I got a hole saw, but the steel (tin) will destroy the teeth on it.
I know the inside of the door is wood, but the outer covering is
metal. The only way I can see is to drill about 50 small holes around
the needed circle size, but that seems like a pain.
Any suggestions?



I went through my mastercraft bimetal hole saw on my steel door
Then a 15$ one from princess auto then the most expensive one I could find
21$ and still all I get it a but of sparks, some smoke, and my paint
around the hole is
turning brown. I thought I got a good quality hole saw but they aren't
working. The center
Drill went through like butter but the hole saw seems to be just buffing
up the door(lol, jk). I spent
about 15 min trying, any other suggestions?

You want to keep the speed of the saw to around 50SFM. for a 1" hole saw
that would be around 200RPM. Too fast and you'll see sparks, smoke, and
burning paint.

On 1/11/2014 7:21 PM, Jon Danniken wrote:
On 01/11/2014 11:44 AM, Kay wrote:

I went through my mastercraft bimetal hole saw on my steel door
Then a 15$ one from princess auto then the most expensive one I could find
21$ and still all I get it a but of sparks, some smoke, and my paint
around the hole is turning brown.

You're probably not applying enough pressure to actually cut the metal,
but instead running the saw on the metal creating friction, as evidenced
by your paint burning up. You need to put your weight into the drill so
that the teeth can do their job, and not spin the drill too fast when
you do this.

For jobs like this I use a 1/2" chuck drill, because it turns slower
than my regular 3/8" chuck drill.

I can't speak to the quality of mastercraft bimetal hole saws, but I do
know that Lennox makes a reliable one.

Jon


Is the rotation of the drill motor correct?

On Sun, 12 Jan 2014 07:17:29 -0600, Mark Storkamp
wrote:

In article s.com,
Kay wrote:

replying to anoldfart2, Kay wrote:
anoldfart2 wrote:

What do i use to drill a hole in steel door for the knob?
I got a hole saw, but the steel (tin) will destroy the teeth on it.
I know the inside of the door is wood, but the outer covering is
metal. The only way I can see is to drill about 50 small holes around
the needed circle size, but that seems like a pain.
Any suggestions?



I went through my mastercraft bimetal hole saw on my steel door
Then a 15$ one from princess auto then the most expensive one I could find
21$ and still all I get it a but of sparks, some smoke, and my paint
around the hole is
turning brown. I thought I got a good quality hole saw but they aren't
working. The center
Drill went through like butter but the hole saw seems to be just buffing
up the door(lol, jk). I spent
about 15 min trying, any other suggestions?

You want to keep the speed of the saw to around 50SFM. for a 1" hole saw
that would be around 200RPM. Too fast and you'll see sparks, smoke, and
burning paint.
And for a 2" diameter hole, that translates to closer to 60RPM -
meaning a half inch VARIABLE SPEED drill, running close to the low end
of it's range.

On Sun, 12 Jan 2014 03:26:11 -0500, Bill
wrote:

micky wrote:
On Sat, 11 Jan 2014 15:39:42 -0500, wrote:

And you MUST use a low speed drill. Variable speed half inch as slow
as you can turn it, under high pressure so you cut instead of skate.
Lubricant won't hurt. I like TapMatic cutting fluid. Helps to have the
door laying flat so the lube doesnt run away, and so you can really
lean into it.
When I was in the 7th grade, my uncle came over to install a peephole in
the front door, the kind that needs a 2" hole.

He took the door off and put it on the ground. But it was a wooden
door. Wouldn't it have been a lot easier to stand on a box or chair if
needed and just hold the drill horizontal. My mother or I could have
watched to make sure it stayed horizontal

It seemed to me at the time like a lot of exrra work

Especially strange since my father had died and I was a little boy, 10
when we moved there, and yet my uncle never did anything for my mother
or me except have us to dinner 2 or 3 times a year. And that was
mostly the effort of his wife and his maid.

From the sound of it, he probably had a hunch that the bottom of the
door hadn't been dusted in a while. So he was able to "kill 2 birds with
one stone'.

Dusted?? Who dusts the bottom of the door? And why take the door off
its hinges to do so?

replying to Jon Danniken , KayFree wrote:
jonSPAMdanniken wrote:

You're probably not applying enough pressure to actually cut the metal,
but instead running the saw on the metal creating friction, as evidenced
by your paint burning up. You need to put your weight into the drill so
that the teeth can do their job, and not spin the drill too fast when
you do this.
For jobs like this I use a 1/2" chuck drill, because it turns slower
than my regular 3/8" chuck drill.
I can't speak to the quality of mastercraft bimetal hole saws, but I do
know that Lennox makes a reliable one.
Jon



Thanks for all your advice, I did end up drilling through the door, with
some difficulty. I was putting a lot of pressure on the door, the metal
actually bent a bit by the time I was done. I would definetly try a lower
speed next time with some oil and take the door off the hinges and put it
on the ground. The way I got it to work was a lot of pressure and rotating
the pressure around the edges of the hole saw as it cut, I also used a
punch and put multiple dents around the cut to help, still took me a
longer time(15-20 min) than I thought it would take to do it. I wish I
would have known what I know now.

--

On 01/14/2014 05:44 AM, KayFree wrote:

I wish I would have known what I know now.

That's how it usually works.

Glad you got your hole drilled.

Jon

On Tue, 14 Jan 2014 09:38:46 -0800, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 01/14/2014 05:44 AM, KayFree wrote:

I wish I would have known what I know now.

That's how it usually works.

Glad you got your hole drilled.

Jon

"If I knew then what I know now, I wouldn't know what I know now"

On 1/14/2014 7:44 AM, KayFree wrote:


Thanks for all your advice, I did end up drilling through the door, with
some difficulty. I was putting a lot of pressure on the door, the metal
actually bent a bit by the time I was done. I would definetly try a lower
speed next time with some oil and take the door off the hinges and put it
on the ground. The way I got it to work was a lot of pressure and rotating
the pressure around the edges of the hole saw as it cut, I also used a
punch and put multiple dents around the cut to help, still took me a
longer time(15-20 min) than I thought it would take to do it. I wish I
would have known what I know now.


Next time get a carbide tipped saw.