My pool pump stopped working. Power to the subpanel but not to the pump.
Pulled the breakers, Tested good. Noticed carbon deposit near block where
one of the hot lines connects. Removed the bakelite plate and the 2 hot
blocks. One was very clean after 30 years of use; the other had carbon
around and behind. The block is 2 pieces: literally a block and set screw
that attaches to the hot line and a "L" shaped bracket [where the breaker
fits] that sits under the block, held tight by a screw through the bakelite
plate. The prongs on the "L" shaped bracket looked fine. I separated the
block from the bracket and there was lots of carbon. I scraped off, cleaned
up [but nothing special], reassembeld tightly. Put everything back together
and all is working now.
My question is: should I have doen anything special to make sure I have an
optimal connection so this does not recur? Would an electrican have tried
to "mate" these surfaces or used a special cleaner?
Thank you for any comment.

sub panels are cheap I would just replace it with everything new

My pool pump stopped working. Power to the subpanel but not to the pump.
Pulled the breakers, Tested good. Noticed carbon deposit near block
where one of the hot lines connects. Removed the bakelite plate and the 2
hot blocks. One was very clean after 30 years of use; the other had
carbon around and behind. The block is 2 pieces: literally a block and
set screw that attaches to the hot line and a "L" shaped bracket [where
the breaker fits] that sits under the block, held tight by a screw through
the bakelite plate. The prongs on the "L" shaped bracket looked fine. I
separated the block from the bracket and there was lots of carbon. I
scraped off, cleaned up [but nothing special], reassembeld tightly. Put
everything back together and all is working now.
My question is: should I have doen anything special to make sure I have an
optimal connection so this does not recur? Would an electrican have
tried to "mate" these surfaces or used a special cleaner?
Thank you for any comment.


*Sometimes a little sandpaper is all that is needed to get everything clean.
I am wondering what caused the problem. Was the screw terminal loose? That
would cause arcing which would explain the carbon.

On Mon, 11 Nov 2013 19:59:37 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

sub panels are cheap I would just replace it with everything new
As would MOST electricians.

On Tuesday, November 12, 2013 8:10:22 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 11 Nov 2013 19:59:37 -0800 (PST), bob haller

wrote:



sub panels are cheap I would just replace it with everything new

As would MOST electricians.

Without actually seeing it, replacing it would be my advice
too. Pool pump subpanels are often outside and after 30 years,
you can expect problems.

On 11/11/2013 6:16 PM, John Keiser wrote:
My pool pump stopped working. Power to the subpanel but not to the pump.
Pulled the breakers, Tested good. Noticed carbon deposit near block where
one of the hot lines connects. Removed the bakelite plate and the 2 hot
blocks. One was very clean after 30 years of use; the other had carbon
around and behind. The block is 2 pieces: literally a block and set screw
that attaches to the hot line and a "L" shaped bracket [where the breaker
fits] that sits under the block, held tight by a screw through the bakelite
plate. The prongs on the "L" shaped bracket looked fine. I separated the
block from the bracket and there was lots of carbon. I scraped off, cleaned
up [but nothing special], reassembeld tightly. Put everything back together
and all is working now.
My question is: should I have doen anything special to make sure I have an
optimal connection so this does not recur? Would an electrican have tried
to "mate" these surfaces or used a special cleaner?
Thank you for any comment.

One thought just in case...is the feeder Cu or Al? If Al, need to use
anti-oxidant on the connections. Wouldn't hurt to redo the other even
if still clean.

If there was any signs of pitting or other corrosion other than a
surface coating, it's possible there may be service parts available.
Then again, depending on the rating and the manufacturer, they may be as
much or nearly so as a new box.

I see no need to replace a good box for just a cleanup of a contact,
however. There are outside boxes on the farm here that are 50-60 yo
that are still just fine...of course it's moderately dry here as opposed
to areas farther east.

A relatively fine grit emery paper is the ideal tool for that; be sure
to remove all debris after.

--

On 11/12/2013 10:22 AM, dpb wrote:

One thought just in case...is the feeder Cu or Al? If Al, need to use
anti-oxidant on the connections. Wouldn't hurt to redo the other even
if still clean.

If there was any signs of pitting or other corrosion other than a
surface coating, it's possible there may be service parts available.
Then again, depending on the rating and the manufacturer, they may be as
much or nearly so as a new box.

I see no need to replace a good box for just a cleanup of a contact,
however. There are outside boxes on the farm here that are 50-60 yo
that are still just fine...of course it's moderately dry here as opposed
to areas farther east.

A relatively fine grit emery paper is the ideal tool for that; be sure
to remove all debris after.

The stores have grey paste, for aluminum contacts.
I'm not sure if I advise it, one time I used it
on .250 push in terminals, and it ate the teminals
away. Not good.

There has to be an approved coating, but I'm not sure
what it is.

Years ago, a friend had strange electrical flickers
in his house. I had a look, and find that the power
feed (through a 100 amp double pole breaker) was not
right. Had to pry the breaker out, and sand the bus
bars where the breaker clipped on. I may have used
some kind of protectant, but can't remember.

For automotive use, heavy water proof grease works
nicely to protect the wires.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

The subpanel is in a shed and not directly exposed to the elements.
Exterior and interior are clean, no corrosion. A replacement subpanel is
cheap enough but would take me longer to rewire so I chose to try the
repair. If it fails again, I'll source a new subpanel.
Thanks to all responders.


wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, November 12, 2013 8:10:22 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 11 Nov 2013 19:59:37 -0800 (PST), bob haller

wrote:



sub panels are cheap I would just replace it with everything new

As would MOST electricians.

Without actually seeing it, replacing it would be my advice
too. Pool pump subpanels are often outside and after 30 years,
you can expect problems.

On Tue, 12 Nov 2013 08:09:29 -1000, "John Keiser"
wrote:

The subpanel is in a shed and not directly exposed to the elements.
Exterior and interior are clean, no corrosion. A replacement subpanel is
cheap enough but would take me longer to rewire so I chose to try the
repair. If it fails again, I'll source a new subpanel.
Thanks to all responders.


wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, November 12, 2013 8:10:22 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 11 Nov 2013 19:59:37 -0800 (PST), bob haller

wrote:



sub panels are cheap I would just replace it with everything new

As would MOST electricians.

Without actually seeing it, replacing it would be my advice
too. Pool pump subpanels are often outside and after 30 years,
you can expect problems.


John,

Are you keeping pool chemicals in the same shed?

Not a good thing for metals in the shed...corrosion, oxidizer...

No chemicals.
Just 30+ years in Hawaiian humidity

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 12 Nov 2013 08:09:29 -1000, "John Keiser"
wrote:

The subpanel is in a shed and not directly exposed to the elements.
Exterior and interior are clean, no corrosion. A replacement subpanel is
cheap enough but would take me longer to rewire so I chose to try the
repair. If it fails again, I'll source a new subpanel.
Thanks to all responders.


wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, November 12, 2013 8:10:22 AM UTC-5,
wrote:
On Mon, 11 Nov 2013 19:59:37 -0800 (PST), bob haller

wrote:



sub panels are cheap I would just replace it with everything new

As would MOST electricians.

Without actually seeing it, replacing it would be my advice
too. Pool pump subpanels are often outside and after 30 years,
you can expect problems.


John,

Are you keeping pool chemicals in the same shed?

Not a good thing for metals in the shed...corrosion, oxidizer...

On Tue, 12 Nov 2013 09:29:46 -1000, "John Keiser"
wrote:

No chemicals.

Good.

Just 30+ years in Hawaiian humidity

Salt water mist from the ocean?

A good idea and a good use for the IR thermometer gather dust in the tool
box.
The bus checked out the temp same as all the other connections under load.
Probably fixed for a few years.
Thanks.




wrote in message
...
On Tue, 12 Nov 2013 09:29:46 -1000, "John Keiser"
wrote:

No chemicals.
Just 30+ years in Hawaiian humidity

Don't go nuts about this, just keep an eye on it.

One of those $30 IR non contact thermometers is cool for stuff like
those. If the bus is cool, it is cool.

On 11/12/2013 3:18 PM, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 12 Nov 2013 09:29:46 -1000, "John Keiser"
wrote:

No chemicals.

Good.

Just 30+ years in Hawaiian humidity

Salt water mist from the ocean?


Blame the Chinese troops.

http://thepatriotnation.net/2013/11/...awaii-tuesday/

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..