So today, I decided it was time to take the trusty Heep over to my
storage locker and retrieve my winter wheel and tire set for my car.
Should take about an hour working slow to swap 'em out, right?

I should explain that this car is a 2009 model year; old for some, shiny
and new for me. Was produced in 09/2008, apparently maintained at
dealership by previous owner; mostly by me since. The last time to my
knowledge the wheels were off were when I replaced the brake pads and
rotors earlier this year; they were cleaned while off and reinstalled
with some copper paste around the hub protrusions, lug bolts installed
dry (threads still look excellent) and torqued by me with my Precision
Instruments beam-type torque wrench to appx. 88 ft-lbs. However, I did
have to have my annual safety inspection done earlier this month and I
took it to a shop whose owner I trust.

I started on the right rear wheel and everything pretty much went just
like I anticipated. All I had to do was wipe the hub flange with a
paper towel, put a little more copper paste on the protrusion, install,
done.

Then I did the RF. I thought the bolts were oddly tight but thought no
more of it.

Then I did the RR. Took a lot of force to break the bolts loose, heard
a "crack" on several of them. Got to the fourth of five and my socket
cocked to one side - MY @#$%#@ SOCKET SPLIT about 4/5 of the way up.

So now I have two winter wheels/tires and two summer only 19s on my car,
one corner is jacked up in the air, and now I have to run to exchange my
@#$%^ socket because a) apparently even the shop that I trust
overtorques lug bolts with an air impact and b) "Husky" brand sockets
are ****; I'm not a small guy, but I still should not be able to split
one open using it correctly and only applying arm strength on a normal
length breaker bar. This is the second Husky brand socket I've broken;
the first I thought was a fluke, but two is a pattern. I'll exchange it
on principle, but the one that will live in my socket holder will come
from Sears or Lowe's (or will be a better brand such as S-K or Snap-On.)

I'm not sure why that one is Husky to begin with; most of my stuff is
Crapsman that I bought ages ago while I was in college...

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 2013-10-28, Nate Nagel wrote:


from Sears or Lowe's (or will be a better brand such as S-K or Snap-On.)

Almost everyone's tools are now import junk. Car-Quest is Chinese, as
is True-Value. Napa is from India. S-K and Proto are still Made in
USA, but they cost like it, basic combo wrench sets starting at $100+.

nb

On 10/28/2013 02:24 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
So today, I decided it was time to take the trusty Heep over to my
storage locker and retrieve my winter wheel and tire set for my car.
Should take about an hour working slow to swap 'em out, right?

I should explain that this car is a 2009 model year; old for some, shiny
and new for me. Was produced in 09/2008, apparently maintained at
dealership by previous owner; mostly by me since. The last time to my
knowledge the wheels were off were when I replaced the brake pads and
rotors earlier this year; they were cleaned while off and reinstalled
with some copper paste around the hub protrusions, lug bolts installed
dry (threads still look excellent) and torqued by me with my Precision
Instruments beam-type torque wrench to appx. 88 ft-lbs. However, I did
have to have my annual safety inspection done earlier this month and I
took it to a shop whose owner I trust.

I started on the right rear wheel and everything pretty much went just
like I anticipated. All I had to do was wipe the hub flange with a
paper towel, put a little more copper paste on the protrusion, install,
done.

Then I did the RF. I thought the bolts were oddly tight but thought no
more of it.

Then I did the RR. Took a lot of force to break the bolts loose, heard
a "crack" on several of them. Got to the fourth of five and my socket
cocked to one side - MY @#$%#@ SOCKET SPLIT about 4/5 of the way up.

So now I have two winter wheels/tires and two summer only 19s on my car,
one corner is jacked up in the air, and now I have to run to exchange my
@#$%^ socket because a) apparently even the shop that I trust
overtorques lug bolts with an air impact and b) "Husky" brand sockets
are ****; I'm not a small guy, but I still should not be able to split
one open using it correctly and only applying arm strength on a normal
length breaker bar. This is the second Husky brand socket I've broken;
the first I thought was a fluke, but two is a pattern. I'll exchange it
on principle, but the one that will live in my socket holder will come
from Sears or Lowe's (or will be a better brand such as S-K or Snap-On.)

I'm not sure why that one is Husky to begin with; most of my stuff is
Crapsman that I bought ages ago while I was in college...

nate




I recently retired after a 38 year career as a field service engineer.

The *only* original tools I had left were my Sears Craftsman socket set.

I kept them and turned in a set I had in my basement.


All were in perfect condition other than the one I dropped across a
1000amp live bus bar. I kept what was left of it as a safety reminder.

--
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MS85K...ature=youtu.be

On 10/28/2013 04:34 PM, philo wrote:
On 10/28/2013 02:24 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
So today, I decided it was time to take the trusty Heep over to my
storage locker and retrieve my winter wheel and tire set for my car.
Should take about an hour working slow to swap 'em out, right?

I should explain that this car is a 2009 model year; old for some, shiny
and new for me. Was produced in 09/2008, apparently maintained at
dealership by previous owner; mostly by me since. The last time to my
knowledge the wheels were off were when I replaced the brake pads and
rotors earlier this year; they were cleaned while off and reinstalled
with some copper paste around the hub protrusions, lug bolts installed
dry (threads still look excellent) and torqued by me with my Precision
Instruments beam-type torque wrench to appx. 88 ft-lbs. However, I did
have to have my annual safety inspection done earlier this month and I
took it to a shop whose owner I trust.

I started on the right rear wheel and everything pretty much went just
like I anticipated. All I had to do was wipe the hub flange with a
paper towel, put a little more copper paste on the protrusion, install,
done.

Then I did the RF. I thought the bolts were oddly tight but thought no
more of it.

Then I did the RR. Took a lot of force to break the bolts loose, heard
a "crack" on several of them. Got to the fourth of five and my socket
cocked to one side - MY @#$%#@ SOCKET SPLIT about 4/5 of the way up.

So now I have two winter wheels/tires and two summer only 19s on my car,
one corner is jacked up in the air, and now I have to run to exchange my
@#$%^ socket because a) apparently even the shop that I trust
overtorques lug bolts with an air impact and b) "Husky" brand sockets
are ****; I'm not a small guy, but I still should not be able to split
one open using it correctly and only applying arm strength on a normal
length breaker bar. This is the second Husky brand socket I've broken;
the first I thought was a fluke, but two is a pattern. I'll exchange it
on principle, but the one that will live in my socket holder will come
from Sears or Lowe's (or will be a better brand such as S-K or Snap-On.)

I'm not sure why that one is Husky to begin with; most of my stuff is
Crapsman that I bought ages ago while I was in college...

nate




I recently retired after a 38 year career as a field service engineer.

The *only* original tools I had left were my Sears Craftsman socket set.

I kept them and turned in a set I had in my basement.


All were in perfect condition other than the one I dropped across a
1000amp live bus bar. I kept what was left of it as a safety reminder.


Well, I'm back...

have to say that the OLDEST tools that I have are an S-K socket set that
I inherited from my grandfather; they're so old that they're marked
"Sherman-Klove." Unfortunately it is marginally useful as it's a 12
point 3/8" drive SAE set, which I almost never need. My FAVORITE tools
are a set of polished S-K metric combination wrenches that a friend
picked up at a pawn shop for cheap; he only works on old American cars
though so I traded him size for size with the Craftsman combo wrenches
that came with my basic "mechanic's tool set" and walked away whistling
happily. Unfortunately he didn't have the 13mm... The NEWEST tools I
have are also a S-K Torx driver set that I got for a good price from
ToolTopia; I purchased those when I bought my Jeep because MoPar seems
to love using Torx everywhere and in many different sizes. And as far
as I know, S-K tools are still Made In USA - so I like S-K... I just
don't know where to buy 'em.

I did use the "find a dealer" function on S-K's web site and discovered
a new (to me) independent auto parts store about 3 miles from my house,
unfortunately when I got there the tools they actually had for sale are
"K-Tool" brand stuff made in Taiwan. Lifetime warranty though, and I
know where I got it... I also stopped by the Orange-Colored Store and
exchanged the busted socket (3/8" drive, 6 point 17mm deep socket) the
new one I'm not really sure why I even bothered to leave the store with
it. It's proudly Made In China, and the bevel at the end that guides
the socket on the nut is very deep, probably a good 3/16". The hex area
of the socket is very shallow; this one looks less likely to split than
the old one anyway simply because of the massive amount of metal they
threw at it, but deep nuts like you'd find on leaf spring U-bolts won't
be able to be fully engaged by the socket. The K-tool one looks way
better actually. But at this point I would buy nothing but S-K if I
could find a local dealer just because I trust them. Or maybe I'll just
have to suck it up and start buying Snap-On off the truck at
extortionate prices (my friend owns a shop, so I could just tell him to
pick stuff up for me whenever the Snap-On man stops by - I've already
had him get my Snap-On torque wrench calibrated for me.)

I will say that I've had reasonably good luck with all my Craftsman
sockets, but I really don't like the ratchets (basic models.) I have
1/4" and 1/2" Kobalt ratchets and I'm considering buying a 3/8" just
because they feel almost as good as Snappy and I have yet to have to
take one apart and clean and oil it like I have to do every couple years
with the Craftsman ones.

OK, back to changing wheels, which I should have been done with hours ago...

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 10/28/2013 03:55 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:




snipped for brevity

I did use the "find a dealer" function on S-K's web site and discovered
a new (to me) independent auto parts store about 3 miles from my house,
unfortunately when I got there the tools they actually had for sale are
"K-Tool" brand stuff made in Taiwan. Lifetime warranty though, and I
know where I got it... I also stopped by the Orange-Colored Store and
exchanged the busted socket (3/8" drive, 6 point 17mm deep socket) the
new one I'm not really sure why I even bothered to leave the store with
it. It's proudly Made In China, and the bevel at the end that guides
the socket on the nut is very deep, probably a good 3/16". The hex area
of the socket is very shallow; this one looks less likely to split than
the old one anyway simply because of the massive amount of metal they
threw at it, but deep nuts like you'd find on leaf spring U-bolts won't
be able to be fully engaged by the socket. The K-tool one looks way
better actually. But at this point I would buy nothing but S-K if I
could find a local dealer just because I trust them. Or maybe I'll just
have to suck it up and start buying Snap-On off the truck at
extortionate prices (my friend owns a shop, so I could just tell him to
pick stuff up for me whenever the Snap-On man stops by - I've already
had him get my Snap-On torque wrench calibrated for me.)

I will say that I've had reasonably good luck with all my Craftsman
sockets, but I really don't like the ratchets (basic models.) I have
1/4" and 1/2" Kobalt ratchets and I'm considering buying a 3/8" just
because they feel almost as good as Snappy and I have yet to have to
take one apart and clean and oil it like I have to do every couple years
with the Craftsman ones.

OK, back to changing wheels, which I should have been done with hours
ago...

nate


Yep SK tools are great.

As far as my oldest tools ... I still have a few of my grandfather's
wooden handle hammers that must be 80 years old.
As a matter of fact I still use his "hand powered" grinder...I don't
know how old it is but I've been using it for close to 50 years.

Plus I still use my dad's Black and Decker drill. Even though it was not
expensive the darn thing keeps on working...it's about 50 years old.
I was really surprised when he bought it and I retired my "hand crank"
drill.


--
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MS85K...ature=youtu.be

On 10/28/2013 05:16 PM, philo wrote:
On 10/28/2013 03:55 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:




snipped for brevity

I did use the "find a dealer" function on S-K's web site and discovered
a new (to me) independent auto parts store about 3 miles from my house,
unfortunately when I got there the tools they actually had for sale are
"K-Tool" brand stuff made in Taiwan. Lifetime warranty though, and I
know where I got it... I also stopped by the Orange-Colored Store and
exchanged the busted socket (3/8" drive, 6 point 17mm deep socket) the
new one I'm not really sure why I even bothered to leave the store with
it. It's proudly Made In China, and the bevel at the end that guides
the socket on the nut is very deep, probably a good 3/16". The hex area
of the socket is very shallow; this one looks less likely to split than
the old one anyway simply because of the massive amount of metal they
threw at it, but deep nuts like you'd find on leaf spring U-bolts won't
be able to be fully engaged by the socket. The K-tool one looks way
better actually. But at this point I would buy nothing but S-K if I
could find a local dealer just because I trust them. Or maybe I'll just
have to suck it up and start buying Snap-On off the truck at
extortionate prices (my friend owns a shop, so I could just tell him to
pick stuff up for me whenever the Snap-On man stops by - I've already
had him get my Snap-On torque wrench calibrated for me.)

I will say that I've had reasonably good luck with all my Craftsman
sockets, but I really don't like the ratchets (basic models.) I have
1/4" and 1/2" Kobalt ratchets and I'm considering buying a 3/8" just
because they feel almost as good as Snappy and I have yet to have to
take one apart and clean and oil it like I have to do every couple years
with the Craftsman ones.

OK, back to changing wheels, which I should have been done with hours
ago...

nate


Yep SK tools are great.

As far as my oldest tools ... I still have a few of my grandfather's
wooden handle hammers that must be 80 years old.
As a matter of fact I still use his "hand powered" grinder...I don't
know how old it is but I've been using it for close to 50 years.

Plus I still use my dad's Black and Decker drill. Even though it was not
expensive the darn thing keeps on working...it's about 50 years old.
I was really surprised when he bought it and I retired my "hand crank"
drill.


yeah, I was neglecting power tools. I have an old Craftsman scroll saw
that I suspect was my great-grandfather's. I got it out of my
grandfather's garage after he passed away. I had to put a new power
cord on it very recently, I think I posted that I was disappointed that
I think this may be the last time I can service it as I actually had to
disassemble the power switch and bend the spring contacts for the
connections for the new power cord (or I suppose I could just solder
them next time, if there is one) but it's so old that literally no parts
are available for it

It's still nicer than the new scroll saw that my parents bought me for a
gift when I mentioned that I was going to need one for something that I
wanted to do around the house. When I visited Grandma she gave me the
old one so I ended up with two... I sold the new one and kept the old one.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
On 10/28/2013 05:16 PM, philo wrote:
On 10/28/2013 03:55 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:




snipped for brevity

I did use the "find a dealer" function on S-K's web site and discovered
a new (to me) independent auto parts store about 3 miles from my house,
unfortunately when I got there the tools they actually had for sale are
"K-Tool" brand stuff made in Taiwan. Lifetime warranty though, and I
know where I got it... I also stopped by the Orange-Colored Store and
exchanged the busted socket (3/8" drive, 6 point 17mm deep socket) the
new one I'm not really sure why I even bothered to leave the store with
it. It's proudly Made In China, and the bevel at the end that guides
the socket on the nut is very deep, probably a good 3/16". The hex area
of the socket is very shallow; this one looks less likely to split than
the old one anyway simply because of the massive amount of metal they
threw at it, but deep nuts like you'd find on leaf spring U-bolts won't
be able to be fully engaged by the socket. The K-tool one looks way
better actually. But at this point I would buy nothing but S-K if I
could find a local dealer just because I trust them. Or maybe I'll just
have to suck it up and start buying Snap-On off the truck at
extortionate prices (my friend owns a shop, so I could just tell him to
pick stuff up for me whenever the Snap-On man stops by - I've already
had him get my Snap-On torque wrench calibrated for me.)

I will say that I've had reasonably good luck with all my Craftsman
sockets, but I really don't like the ratchets (basic models.) I have
1/4" and 1/2" Kobalt ratchets and I'm considering buying a 3/8" just
because they feel almost as good as Snappy and I have yet to have to
take one apart and clean and oil it like I have to do every couple years
with the Craftsman ones.

OK, back to changing wheels, which I should have been done with hours
ago...

nate


Yep SK tools are great.

As far as my oldest tools ... I still have a few of my grandfather's
wooden handle hammers that must be 80 years old.
As a matter of fact I still use his "hand powered" grinder...I don't
know how old it is but I've been using it for close to 50 years.

Plus I still use my dad's Black and Decker drill. Even though it was not
expensive the darn thing keeps on working...it's about 50 years old.
I was really surprised when he bought it and I retired my "hand crank"
drill.


yeah, I was neglecting power tools. I have an old Craftsman scroll saw
that I suspect was my great-grandfather's. I got it out of my
grandfather's garage after he passed away. I had to put a new power cord
on it very recently, I think I posted that I was disappointed that I think
this may be the last time I can service it as I actually had to
disassemble the power switch and bend the spring contacts for the
connections for the new power cord (or I suppose I could just solder them
next time, if there is one) but it's so old that literally no parts are
available for it

It's still nicer than the new scroll saw that my parents bought me for a
gift when I mentioned that I was going to need one for something that I
wanted to do around the house. When I visited Grandma she gave me the old
one so I ended up with two... I sold the new one and kept the old one.

Yeah, I can relate to that. I have some tools that go back to the mid
1950's, many power tools were purchased when I built my house in 1970 and a
number were added when I built an addition in 1986 and I have been adding
since then. I still have a radial arm saw that I bought in 1970. It was sold
as a Teco brand by the large Canadian department store T. Eaton and Company,
(now closed) hence the Teco name. The same saw was sold in the US as a
Montgomery-Ward brand. The manufacturer is long out of business but the saw
still cuts a well as it ever did.

"philo " wrote in message ...

On 10/28/2013 02:24 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
So today, I decided it was time to take the trusty Heep over to my
storage locker and retrieve my winter wheel and tire set for my car.
Should take about an hour working slow to swap 'em out, right?

I should explain that this car is a 2009 model year; old for some, shiny
and new for me. Was produced in 09/2008, apparently maintained at
dealership by previous owner; mostly by me since. The last time to my
knowledge the wheels were off were when I replaced the brake pads and
rotors earlier this year; they were cleaned while off and reinstalled
with some copper paste around the hub protrusions, lug bolts installed
dry (threads still look excellent) and torqued by me with my Precision
Instruments beam-type torque wrench to appx. 88 ft-lbs. However, I did
have to have my annual safety inspection done earlier this month and I
took it to a shop whose owner I trust.

I started on the right rear wheel and everything pretty much went just
like I anticipated. All I had to do was wipe the hub flange with a
paper towel, put a little more copper paste on the protrusion, install,
done.

Then I did the RF. I thought the bolts were oddly tight but thought no
more of it.

Then I did the RR. Took a lot of force to break the bolts loose, heard
a "crack" on several of them. Got to the fourth of five and my socket
cocked to one side - MY @#$%#@ SOCKET SPLIT about 4/5 of the way up.

So now I have two winter wheels/tires and two summer only 19s on my car,
one corner is jacked up in the air, and now I have to run to exchange my
@#$%^ socket because a) apparently even the shop that I trust
overtorques lug bolts with an air impact and b) "Husky" brand sockets
are ****; I'm not a small guy, but I still should not be able to split
one open using it correctly and only applying arm strength on a normal
length breaker bar. This is the second Husky brand socket I've broken;
the first I thought was a fluke, but two is a pattern. I'll exchange it
on principle, but the one that will live in my socket holder will come
from Sears or Lowe's (or will be a better brand such as S-K or Snap-On.)

I'm not sure why that one is Husky to begin with; most of my stuff is
Crapsman that I bought ages ago while I was in college...

nate




I recently retired after a 38 year career as a field service engineer.

The *only* original tools I had left were my Sears Craftsman socket set.

I kept them and turned in a set I had in my basement.


All were in perfect condition other than the one I dropped across a
1000amp live bus bar. I kept what was left of it as a safety reminder.

--
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MS85K...ature=youtu.be

Why are you putting that you tube on all your answers Nothing to do with
home repairs. WW

Nate Nagel wrote:
So today, I decided it was time to take the trusty Heep over to my
storage locker and retrieve my winter wheel and tire set for my car.
Should take about an hour working slow to swap 'em out, right?

I should explain that this car is a 2009 model year; old for some,
shiny and new for me. Was produced in 09/2008, apparently maintained
at dealership by previous owner; mostly by me since. The last time
to my knowledge the wheels were off were when I replaced the brake
pads and rotors earlier this year; they were cleaned while off and
reinstalled with some copper paste around the hub protrusions, lug
bolts installed dry (threads still look excellent) and torqued by me
with my Precision Instruments beam-type torque wrench to appx. 88
ft-lbs. However, I did have to have my annual safety inspection done
earlier this month and I took it to a shop whose owner I trust.

I started on the right rear wheel and everything pretty much went just
like I anticipated. All I had to do was wipe the hub flange with a
paper towel, put a little more copper paste on the protrusion,
install, done.

Then I did the RF. I thought the bolts were oddly tight but thought
no more of it.

Then I did the RR. Took a lot of force to break the bolts loose,
heard a "crack" on several of them. Got to the fourth of five and my
socket cocked to one side - MY @#$%#@ SOCKET SPLIT about 4/5 of the
way up.
So now I have two winter wheels/tires and two summer only 19s on my
car, one corner is jacked up in the air, and now I have to run to
exchange my @#$%^ socket because a) apparently even the shop that I
trust overtorques lug bolts with an air impact and b) "Husky" brand
sockets are ****; I'm not a small guy, but I still should not be able
to split one open using it correctly and only applying arm strength
on a normal length breaker bar. This is the second Husky brand
socket I've broken; the first I thought was a fluke, but two is a
pattern. I'll exchange it on principle, but the one that will live
in my socket holder will come from Sears or Lowe's (or will be a
better brand such as S-K or Snap-On.)
I'm not sure why that one is Husky to begin with; most of my stuff is
Crapsman that I bought ages ago while I was in college...

Buy a set of IMPACT sockets.

Bob F wrote:
Nate Nagel wrote:
So today, I decided it was time to take the trusty Heep over to my
storage locker and retrieve my winter wheel and tire set for my car.
Should take about an hour working slow to swap 'em out, right?

I should explain that this car is a 2009 model year; old for some,
shiny and new for me. Was produced in 09/2008, apparently maintained
at dealership by previous owner; mostly by me since. The last time
to my knowledge the wheels were off were when I replaced the brake
pads and rotors earlier this year; they were cleaned while off and
reinstalled with some copper paste around the hub protrusions, lug
bolts installed dry (threads still look excellent) and torqued by me
with my Precision Instruments beam-type torque wrench to appx. 88
ft-lbs. However, I did have to have my annual safety inspection done
earlier this month and I took it to a shop whose owner I trust.

I started on the right rear wheel and everything pretty much went just
like I anticipated. All I had to do was wipe the hub flange with a
paper towel, put a little more copper paste on the protrusion,
install, done.

Then I did the RF. I thought the bolts were oddly tight but thought
no more of it.

Then I did the RR. Took a lot of force to break the bolts loose,
heard a "crack" on several of them. Got to the fourth of five and my
socket cocked to one side - MY @#$%#@ SOCKET SPLIT about 4/5 of the
way up.
So now I have two winter wheels/tires and two summer only 19s on my
car, one corner is jacked up in the air, and now I have to run to
exchange my @#$%^ socket because a) apparently even the shop that I
trust overtorques lug bolts with an air impact and b) "Husky" brand
sockets are ****; I'm not a small guy, but I still should not be able
to split one open using it correctly and only applying arm strength
on a normal length breaker bar. This is the second Husky brand
socket I've broken; the first I thought was a fluke, but two is a
pattern. I'll exchange it on principle, but the one that will live
in my socket holder will come from Sears or Lowe's (or will be a
better brand such as S-K or Snap-On.)
I'm not sure why that one is Husky to begin with; most of my stuff is
Crapsman that I bought ages ago while I was in college...

Buy a set of IMPACT sockets.


Yes,
I do mount seasonal tires on our cars. I have mid-size compressor as
well as two different size deep socket from Snap-on(dark steel ones)
I never use impact wrench to torque the lug nuts. I use manual torque
wrench. You break loose lug bolt, not the lug nut? Sound odd.
Most of my hand tools are Sears Craftsman when they were made by Singer.
I had one ratchet wrench go bad and received rebuild kit free
from Sears.

On 10/28/2013 12:24 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
So today, I decided it was time to take the trusty Heep over to my
storage locker and retrieve my winter wheel and tire set for my car.
Should take about an hour working slow to swap 'em out, right?

I actually look for old good tools at yard sales. There are lots out
there for next to nothing, and many are lots better than what you get
today. MUCH thicker walled sockets, heavier wrenches. If you need to
have all matching stuff, all shiny, for show, that's difference. If you
want something you can yank on, look for the older strong stuff. A lot
of it is in nearly unused condition.

And as suggested, a set of impact sockets come in handy when something
is stuck good.

Steve

On 10/28/2013 3:24 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
So today, I decided it was time to take the trusty Heep over to my
storage locker and retrieve my winter wheel and tire set for my car.
Should take about an hour working slow to swap 'em out, right?

I should explain that this car is a 2009 model year; old for some, shiny
and new for me. Was produced in 09/2008, apparently maintained at
dealership by previous owner; mostly by me since. The last time to my
knowledge the wheels were off were when I replaced the brake pads and
rotors earlier this year; they were cleaned while off and reinstalled
with some copper paste around the hub protrusions, lug bolts installed
dry (threads still look excellent) and torqued by me with my Precision
Instruments beam-type torque wrench to appx. 88 ft-lbs. However, I did
have to have my annual safety inspection done earlier this month and I
took it to a shop whose owner I trust.

I started on the right rear wheel and everything pretty much went just
like I anticipated. All I had to do was wipe the hub flange with a
paper towel, put a little more copper paste on the protrusion, install,
done.

Then I did the RF. I thought the bolts were oddly tight but thought no
more of it.

Then I did the RR. Took a lot of force to break the bolts loose, heard
a "crack" on several of them. Got to the fourth of five and my socket
cocked to one side - MY @#$%#@ SOCKET SPLIT about 4/5 of the way up.

So now I have two winter wheels/tires and two summer only 19s on my car,
one corner is jacked up in the air, and now I have to run to exchange my
@#$%^ socket because a) apparently even the shop that I trust
overtorques lug bolts with an air impact and b) "Husky" brand sockets
are ****; I'm not a small guy, but I still should not be able to split
one open using it correctly and only applying arm strength on a normal
length breaker bar. This is the second Husky brand socket I've broken;
the first I thought was a fluke, but two is a pattern. I'll exchange it
on principle, but the one that will live in my socket holder will come
from Sears or Lowe's (or will be a better brand such as S-K or Snap-On.)

I'm not sure why that one is Husky to begin with; most of my stuff is
Crapsman that I bought ages ago while I was in college...

nate

I've had that happen, when the mechanic airs them on
too tight. I've taken to asking them to put the lugs
on finger tight, and I'll set the torque in the parking
lot before I leave. With aluminum rims have to check
torque the next day, and the second day also. They tend
to loosen up. I'm not fond of aluminum rims.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 10/28/2013 4:55 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:


Well, I'm back...


OK, back to changing wheels, which I should have been done with hours
ago...

nate

My parent have expression for this "ten minute job".
Which ends up needing several trips to the store,
and repeated parts runs.

A couple months ago, I finally pitched out a
winter coat which had been eaten by battery acid.
A reminder to heed the promptings of the Spirit,
which told me to wash it that night in hot water
and baking soda. A friend blew up a starting
battery. I took hold of him to help him into the
house (acid in his eyes) and got acid on my coat.



--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 10/28/2013 8:42 PM, EXT wrote:

Yeah, I can relate to that. I have some tools that go back to the mid
1950's, many power tools were purchased when I built my house in 1970
and a number were added when I built an addition in 1986 and I have been
adding since then. I still have a radial arm saw that I bought in 1970.
It was sold as a Teco brand by the large Canadian department store T.
Eaton and Company, (now closed) hence the Teco name. The same saw was
sold in the US as a Montgomery-Ward brand. The manufacturer is long out
of business but the saw still cuts a well as it ever did.

My box of locksmith tools, is my grand father's
old fishing tackle box. Don't remember when I got
that, but he died in the eighties. I still think
of him, when I'm on service calls.

On to the original subject. I do carry a 25 inch
breaker bar in both vehicles, and a couple black
sockets. I'm the kind of guy who stops to help
others along the road, and it's come in handy.

One time, on a brake job. Broke a black 17 mm
socket on back of a brake caliper. I had a silver
one in English, which did the job.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 10/28/2013 10:34 PM, Bob F wrote:
pattern. I'll exchange it on principle, but the one that will live
in my socket holder will come from Sears or Lowe's (or will be a
better brand such as S-K or Snap-On.)
I'm not sure why that one is Husky to begin with; most of my stuff is
Crapsman that I bought ages ago while I was in college...

Buy a set of IMPACT sockets.

The brake job where I split a socket. The IMPACT socket
broke, but the silver REGULAR socket did the job. The
IMPACT was Harbor Freight, the silver was Stanley.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/28/2013 3:24 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
So today, I decided it was time to take the trusty Heep over to my
storage locker and retrieve my winter wheel and tire set for my car.
Should take about an hour working slow to swap 'em out, right?

I should explain that this car is a 2009 model year; old for some, shiny
and new for me. Was produced in 09/2008, apparently maintained at
dealership by previous owner; mostly by me since. The last time to my
knowledge the wheels were off were when I replaced the brake pads and
rotors earlier this year; they were cleaned while off and reinstalled
with some copper paste around the hub protrusions, lug bolts installed
dry (threads still look excellent) and torqued by me with my Precision
Instruments beam-type torque wrench to appx. 88 ft-lbs. However, I did
have to have my annual safety inspection done earlier this month and I
took it to a shop whose owner I trust.

I started on the right rear wheel and everything pretty much went just
like I anticipated. All I had to do was wipe the hub flange with a
paper towel, put a little more copper paste on the protrusion, install,
done.

Then I did the RF. I thought the bolts were oddly tight but thought no
more of it.

Then I did the RR. Took a lot of force to break the bolts loose, heard
a "crack" on several of them. Got to the fourth of five and my socket
cocked to one side - MY @#$%#@ SOCKET SPLIT about 4/5 of the way up.

So now I have two winter wheels/tires and two summer only 19s on my car,
one corner is jacked up in the air, and now I have to run to exchange my
@#$%^ socket because a) apparently even the shop that I trust
overtorques lug bolts with an air impact and b) "Husky" brand sockets
are ****; I'm not a small guy, but I still should not be able to split
one open using it correctly and only applying arm strength on a normal
length breaker bar. This is the second Husky brand socket I've broken;
the first I thought was a fluke, but two is a pattern. I'll exchange it
on principle, but the one that will live in my socket holder will come
from Sears or Lowe's (or will be a better brand such as S-K or Snap-On.)

I'm not sure why that one is Husky to begin with; most of my stuff is
Crapsman that I bought ages ago while I was in college...

nate

I've had that happen, when the mechanic airs them on
too tight. I've taken to asking them to put the lugs
on finger tight, and I'll set the torque in the parking
lot before I leave. With aluminum rims have to check
torque the next day, and the second day also. They tend
to loosen up. I'm not fond of aluminum rims.

Hi,
You are darn right. Over torquing can warp rotors as well.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/28/2013 10:34 PM, Bob F wrote:
pattern. I'll exchange it on principle, but the one that will live
in my socket holder will come from Sears or Lowe's (or will be a
better brand such as S-K or Snap-On.)
I'm not sure why that one is Husky to begin with; most of my stuff is
Crapsman that I bought ages ago while I was in college...

Buy a set of IMPACT sockets.

The brake job where I split a socket. The IMPACT socket
broke, but the silver REGULAR socket did the job. The
IMPACT was Harbor Freight, the silver was Stanley.

Hi,
MY SIL who owns fair size CAD/CAM moulding machine shop once
said HB tools are like Timex watch.

On 10/29/2013 12:47 AM, SteveB wrote:
On 10/28/2013 12:24 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
So today, I decided it was time to take the trusty Heep over to my
storage locker and retrieve my winter wheel and tire set for my car.
Should take about an hour working slow to swap 'em out, right?

I actually look for old good tools at yard sales. There are lots out
there for next to nothing, and many are lots better than what you get
today. MUCH thicker walled sockets, heavier wrenches. If you need to
have all matching stuff, all shiny, for show, that's difference. If you
want something you can yank on, look for the older strong stuff. A lot
of it is in nearly unused condition.

And as suggested, a set of impact sockets come in handy when something
is stuck good.

Steve



yeah, I've done that, I really would like to find a local dealer for
good quality new tools however for when I need something that I haven't
found used 'n' cheap.

I don't have any impacts although I've thought about it - but in this
instance the extra thickness of the impacts would have made it tricky to
get on the lugs without marring the recesses in the wheels.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 10/29/2013 12:16 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:

Yes,
I do mount seasonal tires on our cars. I have mid-size compressor as
well as two different size deep socket from Snap-on(dark steel ones)
I never use impact wrench to torque the lug nuts. I use manual torque
wrench. You break loose lug bolt, not the lug nut? Sound odd.

Typical of German cars... VW, Audi and BMW at least use lug bolts not
lug nuts. Porsche tends to use studs and nuts, not sure what
Mercedes-Benz uses (I'm not old enough to drive one G)

Most of my hand tools are Sears Craftsman when they were made by Singer.
I had one ratchet wrench go bad and received rebuild kit free
from Sears.

yeah that is nice but on the flip side the Craftsman ratchets I have are
pretty course and also need to be cleaned and oiled every couple years.
But I have only had a handful fail to the point that cleaning wouldn't
fix them...

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 10/29/2013 09:38 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/28/2013 10:34 PM, Bob F wrote:
pattern. I'll exchange it on principle, but the one that will live
in my socket holder will come from Sears or Lowe's (or will be a
better brand such as S-K or Snap-On.)
I'm not sure why that one is Husky to begin with; most of my stuff is
Crapsman that I bought ages ago while I was in college...

Buy a set of IMPACT sockets.

The brake job where I split a socket. The IMPACT socket
broke, but the silver REGULAR socket did the job. The
IMPACT was Harbor Freight, the silver was Stanley.


Well that answers the question I was going to ask but didn't, whether
the cheap HF impacts were stronger than a good hand socket.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 10/29/2013 9:52 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
The brake job where I split a socket. The IMPACT socket
broke, but the silver REGULAR socket did the job. The
IMPACT was Harbor Freight, the silver was Stanley.

Hi,
MY SIL who owns fair size CAD/CAM moulding machine shop once
said HB tools are like Timex watch.

Neat! Glad to hear. But, what is HB?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 10/29/2013 10:14 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
The brake job where I split a socket. The IMPACT socket
broke, but the silver REGULAR socket did the job. The
IMPACT was Harbor Freight, the silver was Stanley.


Well that answers the question I was going to ask but didn't, whether
the cheap HF impacts were stronger than a good hand socket.

nate

In this case, not. The Stanley socket came from Walmart.
I bought it one night, far from home, helping a friend
change wheel studs on his wife's car. It was quite an
experience. Cold fall weather, and it took a bit of
work to repair.

My recent stud and lug wisdom. When it feels like a wheel
is shaking, pop all four snap covers, and check all the
lugs on all the wheels. This from sad experience.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...

My recent stud and lug wisdom. When it feels like a wheel
is shaking, pop all four snap covers, and check all the
lugs on all the wheels. This from sad experience.


While in college I took a part time job at a Sears Automotive store changing
tires and batteries. I was not the one that did this, but I did find the
results.

A person only wanted one radial tire (this was around 1970 when radials were
new). Salesman told him he needed atleast two to go on the front of the car
or it would shake very bad.
He only got one and in about half an hour he was back. Said the salesman
was right and wanted another and for me to put them both on the back. When
I took off the hubcap, the lug nuts were very loose, a thread or two loose.
What hapened is we had several impact wrenches and one of them was worn out
and would not tighten the lugs tight enough and they had backed off.

On 10/28/2013 12:24 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
...apparently even the shop that I trust overtorques lug bolts with an air impact....

I've learned to always specify the lug torque whenever I go to the tire
place. I spec it to the minimum torque recommended in my FSM, then I go
home and take my torque wrench and finish the job myself.

Jon

On 10/29/2013 11:47 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:

While in college I took a part time job at a Sears Automotive store changing
tires and batteries. I was not the one that did this, but I did find the
results.

A person only wanted one radial tire (this was around 1970 when radials were
new). Salesman told him he needed atleast two to go on the front of the car
or it would shake very bad.
He only got one and in about half an hour he was back. Said the salesman
was right and wanted another and for me to put them both on the back. When
I took off the hubcap, the lug nuts were very loose, a thread or two loose.
What hapened is we had several impact wrenches and one of them was worn out
and would not tighten the lugs tight enough and they had backed off.

Good that he brought it back, and that your
people found the loose thread.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Nate Nagel wrote:
cheap.

I don't have any impacts although I've thought about it - but in this
instance the extra thickness of the impacts would have made it tricky
to get on the lugs without marring the recesses in the wheels.

The tire shop manages with theirs.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/29/2013 9:52 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
The brake job where I split a socket. The IMPACT socket
broke, but the silver REGULAR socket did the job. The
IMPACT was Harbor Freight, the silver was Stanley.

Hi,
MY SIL who owns fair size CAD/CAM moulding machine shop once
said HB tools are like Timex watch.

Neat! Glad to hear. But, what is HB?

Hi,
Sorry, typo. HF for Harbor Freight.

On 10/29/2013 12:24 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
MY SIL who owns fair size CAD/CAM moulding machine shop once
said HB tools are like Timex watch.

Neat! Glad to hear. But, what is HB?

Hi,
Sorry, typo. HF for Harbor Freight.

No worries. But you got to stop apologizing on
Usenet. Now, flame me and get on with life.

I've had some HF tools were good. Some, not as
good.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Nate Nagel wrote:
On 10/29/2013 12:16 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:

Yes,
I do mount seasonal tires on our cars. I have mid-size compressor as
well as two different size deep socket from Snap-on(dark steel ones)
I never use impact wrench to torque the lug nuts. I use manual torque
wrench. You break loose lug bolt, not the lug nut? Sound odd.

Typical of German cars... VW, Audi and BMW at least use lug bolts not
lug nuts. Porsche tends to use studs and nuts, not sure what
Mercedes-Benz uses (I'm not old enough to drive one G)

Most of my hand tools are Sears Craftsman when they were made by Singer.
I had one ratchet wrench go bad and received rebuild kit free
from Sears.

yeah that is nice but on the flip side the Craftsman ratchets I have are
pretty course and also need to be cleaned and oiled every couple years.
But I have only had a handful fail to the point that cleaning wouldn't
fix them...

nate

Hi,
Exactly. Sears salesman tried to give me a replacement wrench but it
didn't feel good in my hand. Sort of rough and coarse feeling.
Instead I got the rebuild kit in a bag.

On Tue, 29 Oct 2013 09:23:07 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

Nate Nagel wrote:
cheap.

I don't have any impacts although I've thought about it - but in this
instance the extra thickness of the impacts would have made it tricky
to get on the lugs without marring the recesses in the wheels.

The tire shop manages with theirs.


Yep. And I never bought a car that didn't have a lug wrench in the
trunk. Then I toss my big 4-way in there, and use that for lug nuts.
Only time I used a socket set on tire nuts was when I wanted to make
use of the speeder in my old Craftsman set.
Pretty quickly found out that spinning a 4-way is faster than a
speeder, and never went back.
A normal socket isn't really suitable for removing lug nuts, because
the nuts can be seized up. I've had to use a 4 foot persuader on
some, so that might have been +400 ft lbs torque to break them loose.
Doubt the normal socket is designed for that torque.
I've done quite a bit of wrenching, and only remember breaking one
socket. Wasn't on a lug nut. Don't remember the brand.
Probably just a manufacturing defect in the socket, or somebody had
abused it before I broke it. Maybe had it in a vise. Who knows.
Probably not a dime's difference in socket and wrench quality except
for really low end stuff.
My kid is a pro suspension mechanic doing heavy trucks all day long,
beating on a lot of wrenches.
He has them all, Snap-On, Matco, Mac, Craftsman, blah blah.
He breaks them all. One of his favorites to beat on is Pittsburgh
from HF. He lives near a HF, and they'll replace a broken
wrench/socket just like Snap-on, Craftsman et al.
Says they last as long as any others he has, sometimes longer.
The ONLY tool he swears by is his Matco impact, a rebranded IR
Titanium. Paid more getting it from the Matco guy, but he wanted it
as soon as he tested it, and it was convenient.
So Nate, relax and just get any replacement socket.
And don't use a normal socket for breaking loose tire lugs.

On 10/29/2013 12:23 PM, Bob F wrote:
Nate Nagel wrote:
cheap.

I don't have any impacts although I've thought about it - but in this
instance the extra thickness of the impacts would have made it tricky
to get on the lugs without marring the recesses in the wheels.

The tire shop manages with theirs.

*shudder*

they get the lugs off and on, you mean.

Yeah, I'm *THAT* guy. But my car has nice looking wheels.

nate


--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 10/29/2013 12:34 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Nate Nagel wrote:
On 10/29/2013 12:16 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:

Yes,
I do mount seasonal tires on our cars. I have mid-size compressor as
well as two different size deep socket from Snap-on(dark steel ones)
I never use impact wrench to torque the lug nuts. I use manual torque
wrench. You break loose lug bolt, not the lug nut? Sound odd.

Typical of German cars... VW, Audi and BMW at least use lug bolts not
lug nuts. Porsche tends to use studs and nuts, not sure what
Mercedes-Benz uses (I'm not old enough to drive one G)

My Karmen Ghia had the lug bolts. It was not easy to get them loose and
I broke a couple of sockets. Often I'd have to put a piece of pipe on
the socket handle and jump on it. Once you got a quarter turn, they came
out smoothly.

My Mercedes had studs and nuts.

On 10/29/2013 02:29 PM, Vic Smith wrote:
On Tue, 29 Oct 2013 09:23:07 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

Nate Nagel wrote:
cheap.

I don't have any impacts although I've thought about it - but in this
instance the extra thickness of the impacts would have made it tricky
to get on the lugs without marring the recesses in the wheels.

The tire shop manages with theirs.


Yep. And I never bought a car that didn't have a lug wrench in the
trunk.

Sadly, BMW thinks its customers are too dumb to handle changing tires
themselves, so since the introduction of the E9x, no 3-series comes with
any jack, lug wrench, or even a spare. I've rectified that, but the lug
wrench is flimsier than a socket and breaker bar.

Then I toss my big 4-way in there, and use that for lug nuts.

I have one too, real nice and beefy. Problem is the OD of the sockets
are even larger than the corresponding impact sockets. No big deal with
steel wheels, but alloys with recessed lugs = no bueno. I did use it
before I had my wheels refinished last winter - in fact when I first got
the car, I needed it plus a cheater to get the wheels off to clean them.
But since I've had them refinished, I'm kinda particular about them...

Only time I used a socket set on tire nuts was when I wanted to make
use of the speeder in my old Craftsman set.
Pretty quickly found out that spinning a 4-way is faster than a
speeder, and never went back.

That much is true, been doing that for years.

A normal socket isn't really suitable for removing lug nuts, because
the nuts can be seized up. I've had to use a 4 foot persuader on
some, so that might have been +400 ft lbs torque to break them loose.
Doubt the normal socket is designed for that torque.
I've done quite a bit of wrenching, and only remember breaking one
socket. Wasn't on a lug nut. Don't remember the brand.
Probably just a manufacturing defect in the socket, or somebody had
abused it before I broke it. Maybe had it in a vise. Who knows.
Probably not a dime's difference in socket and wrench quality except
for really low end stuff.
My kid is a pro suspension mechanic doing heavy trucks all day long,
beating on a lot of wrenches.
He has them all, Snap-On, Matco, Mac, Craftsman, blah blah.
He breaks them all. One of his favorites to beat on is Pittsburgh
from HF. He lives near a HF, and they'll replace a broken
wrench/socket just like Snap-on, Craftsman et al.
Says they last as long as any others he has, sometimes longer.
The ONLY tool he swears by is his Matco impact, a rebranded IR
Titanium. Paid more getting it from the Matco guy, but he wanted it
as soon as he tested it, and it was convenient.
So Nate, relax and just get any replacement socket.
And don't use a normal socket for breaking loose tire lugs.

Unfortunately I don't really have a choice in this case, unless I get an
impact 17mm but then wrap it in electrical tape or something to keep it
from marring the wheel if it wobbles a little (or grind down the 17mm
end of my 4-way and wrap that similarly.)

I'm just frustrated that I'm sure in this instance my issues were caused
by the inspection... and that I was using a short/light breaker bar and
still managed to break a socket. I have been real hard on tools
(working on a lot of rusty old crap, not that this car is - far from it)
and have put far more torque on similar sockets without issue.

nate


--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 10/29/2013 08:32 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/28/2013 4:55 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:


Well, I'm back...


OK, back to changing wheels, which I should have been done with hours
ago...

nate

My parent have expression for this "ten minute job".
Which ends up needing several trips to the store,
and repeated parts runs.

A couple months ago, I finally pitched out a
winter coat which had been eaten by battery acid.
A reminder to heed the promptings of the Spirit,
which told me to wash it that night in hot water
and baking soda. A friend blew up a starting
battery. I took hold of him to help him into the
house (acid in his eyes) and got acid on my coat.






Assuming it was cotton, even if you immediately soaked it in a baking
soda solution it would have been too late.

To work around batteries wool or polyester is the way to go.


As to the eyes,,,you should always wear safety glasses when handling a
battery...otoh: if you get some acid in your eyes you will be OK if you
thoroughly wash your eyes out with 'eye wash'.

I was in the industrial battery business for nearly 40 years and the
only injury I saw due to "acid in the eyes" was when a supervisor
panicked and while leading the poor soul to the eyewash fountain ... ran
him right into an I-beam.

--
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MS85K...ature=youtu.be

On 10/29/2013 2:55 PM, philo wrote:

Assuming it was cotton, even if you immediately soaked it in a baking
soda solution it would have been too late.

To work around batteries wool or polyester is the way to go.


As to the eyes,,,you should always wear safety glasses when handling a
battery...otoh: if you get some acid in your eyes you will be OK if you
thoroughly wash your eyes out with 'eye wash'.

I was in the industrial battery business for nearly 40 years and the
only injury I saw due to "acid in the eyes" was when a supervisor
panicked and while leading the poor soul to the eyewash fountain ... ran
him right into an I-beam.

Thanks, I wondered about the coat.

Farmer Bob was trying to start a Gehl Skid Steer. he leaned over the
battery (I was on the other side of the machine) and wiggled the clamp.
The heavy duty rolling charger was on 12 volt boost. I kid him about
being on 12 volt blast. I could smell the acid from where I was. The
battery exploded, with what sounded like a pistol shot. I heard him say
"get some water for my eyes". I grabbed hold of him, and went into the
house with him. He rinsed with water at the kitchen sink. I found some
baking soda, and mixed some in a bowl for him to rinse. I called the
local pharmacy, and they suggested ambulance ride and hospital. He
declined. He didn't seem to suffer any permanent damages.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 10/28/2013 3:34 PM, philo wrote:

********************Trim Da Phat********************


I recently retired after a 38 year career as a field service engineer.
The *only* original tools I had left were my Sears Craftsman socket set.
I kept them and turned in a set I had in my basement.

All were in perfect condition other than the one I dropped across a
1000amp live bus bar. I kept what was left of it as a safety reminder.


It's a good thing you weren't injured. A wonderful, smart electrical
engineer I knew was killed when he opened an energized enclosure and the
top rod of the door mechanism came out of the holder and fell into
the connections carrying 4,160 vac. The arc and explosion killed him
instantly, he never knew what hit him. He was a great guy with a family
and a lot of people who called him friend. It was discovered that the
dumb asses who installed the enclosure when there was no power on the
system had the top rod fall out too but never told anyone because they
didn't think it was important. I've installed, made splices and many
connections on an underground 4,160 vac system using 15kv rated cable,
splices and connections because it was a high humidity environment on a
coral atoll. My electrical superintendent got a severe tingle from using
a wooden hot stick and fortunately wasn't injured. Philo you know
from experience that high current or high voltage power is nothing to
drop your guard around, glad to see you're still around. o_O

TDD

On 10/29/2013 02:16 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

snip


Thanks, I wondered about the coat.

Farmer Bob was trying to start a Gehl Skid Steer. he leaned over the
battery (I was on the other side of the machine) and wiggled the clamp.
The heavy duty rolling charger was on 12 volt boost. I kid him about
being on 12 volt blast. I could smell the acid from where I was. The
battery exploded, with what sounded like a pistol shot. I heard him say
"get some water for my eyes". I grabbed hold of him, and went into the
house with him. He rinsed with water at the kitchen sink. I found some
baking soda, and mixed some in a bowl for him to rinse. I called the
local pharmacy, and they suggested ambulance ride and hospital. He
declined. He didn't seem to suffer any permanent damages.





Batteries on-charge are extremely dangerous as they are emitting
hydrogen and oxygen.

When I'd go into a plant to work on a battery there was often a small
crowd of observers gathered round.

I never liked the idea of people standing there as I worked...so when
they asked me something like, "Do these things explode?"

I'd reply in a very reassuring way, "Hardly ever."

They always left at that point.


--
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MS85K...ature=youtu.be

On 10/30/2013 5:56 AM, philo wrote:


Batteries on-charge are extremely dangerous as they are emitting
hydrogen and oxygen.

When I'd go into a plant to work on a battery there was often a small
crowd of observers gathered round.

I never liked the idea of people standing there as I worked...so when
they asked me something like, "Do these things explode?"

I'd reply in a very reassuring way, "Hardly ever."

They always left at that point.

I'll admit, I enjoy watching workers from other
trades. Always some thing to learn. But, in the
case of big storage batteries, maybe best not to
get "too" close? I'll be leaving, now.......

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Monday, October 28, 2013 3:24:03 PM UTC-4, Nate Nagel wrote:
So today, I decided it was time to take the trusty Heep over to my

storage locker and retrieve my winter wheel and tire set for my car.

Should take about an hour working slow to swap 'em out, right?



I should explain that this car is a 2009 model year; old for some, shiny

and new for me. Was produced in 09/2008, apparently maintained at

dealership by previous owner; mostly by me since. The last time to my

knowledge the wheels were off were when I replaced the brake pads and

rotors earlier this year; they were cleaned while off and reinstalled

with some copper paste around the hub protrusions, lug bolts installed

dry (threads still look excellent) and torqued by me with my Precision

Instruments beam-type torque wrench to appx. 88 ft-lbs. However, I did

have to have my annual safety inspection done earlier this month and I

took it to a shop whose owner I trust.



I started on the right rear wheel and everything pretty much went just

like I anticipated. All I had to do was wipe the hub flange with a

paper towel, put a little more copper paste on the protrusion, install,

done.



Then I did the RF. I thought the bolts were oddly tight but thought no

more of it.



Then I did the RR. Took a lot of force to break the bolts loose, heard

a "crack" on several of them. Got to the fourth of five and my socket

cocked to one side - MY @#$%#@ SOCKET SPLIT about 4/5 of the way up.



So now I have two winter wheels/tires and two summer only 19s on my car,

one corner is jacked up in the air, and now I have to run to exchange my

@#$%^ socket because a) apparently even the shop that I trust

overtorques lug bolts with an air impact and b) "Husky" brand sockets

are ****; I'm not a small guy, but I still should not be able to split

one open using it correctly and only applying arm strength on a normal

length breaker bar. This is the second Husky brand socket I've broken;

the first I thought was a fluke, but two is a pattern. I'll exchange it

on principle, but the one that will live in my socket holder will come

from Sears or Lowe's (or will be a better brand such as S-K or Snap-On.)



I'm not sure why that one is Husky to begin with; most of my stuff is

Crapsman that I bought ages ago while I was in college...



nate



--

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