Lesson learned slow. Do not buy Great Stuff foam in
advance. Goes bad, and throw it out when it doesn't
work.

Just put about five cans int he trash.

Also, great stuff foamed into air spaces around the
vehicle, slows down rust. Fenders, under doors, etc.

The foam is impossible to get off clothes or skin
when wet. Treat it like toxic waste.

Carry empty shopping bags. When the can is exhausted,
stuff it tube first into the bag.

I'm heading for the store, to buy another can of foam.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Lesson learned slow. Do not buy Great Stuff foam in
advance. Goes bad, and throw it out when it doesn't
work.

Just put about five cans int he trash.

Also, great stuff foamed into air spaces around the
vehicle, slows down rust. Fenders, under doors, etc.

The foam is impossible to get off clothes or skin
when wet. Treat it like toxic waste.

Carry empty shopping bags. When the can is exhausted,
stuff it tube first into the bag.

I'm heading for the store, to buy another can of foam.



I agree with everything except for your first comment. I've used unopened
cans of Great Stuff at least a year after they were bought with no
problems. Perhaps we need to know your definition of "in advance".

I don't know about the rust prevention, so I'll take your word for it.

2 other tips:

1 - You'll need less than you think to fill a gap, it will expand beyond
the opening. Expect it, embrace it.
2 - Don't put your window or door trim back on for at least 24 hours. When
#1 happens, it'll ooze out from behind the trim and be a real pain to clean
up. BTDT

On 09/18/2013 02:13 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Lesson learned slow. Do not buy Great Stuff foam in
advance. Goes bad, and throw it out when it doesn't
work.

Just put about five cans int he trash.

Also, great stuff foamed into air spaces around the
vehicle, slows down rust. Fenders, under doors, etc.

The foam is impossible to get off clothes or skin
when wet. Treat it like toxic waste.

Carry empty shopping bags. When the can is exhausted,
stuff it tube first into the bag.

I'm heading for the store, to buy another can of foam.



I'd be careful using the foam in closed areas of a car body - it's been
done in the past, e.g. the "roll bar" of the Porsche 914, it seemed to
actually accelerate the rust. If you do foam closed areas make sure
they are well and truly closed and that no water is going to get in
there. It can make a real difference in stiffness and noise reduction
though.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Wed, 18 Sep 2013 14:55:49 -0400, Nate Nagel
wrote:

I'd be careful using the foam in closed areas of a car body - it's been
done in the past, e.g. the "roll bar" of the Porsche 914, it seemed to
actually accelerate the rust. If you do foam closed areas make sure
they are well and truly closed and that no water is going to get in
there. It can make a real difference in stiffness and noise reduction
though.

It makes no sense to me to use GS foam in a car body. It will retain
moisture if exposed and likely rust the body.

There are products intended to dampen sound and seal car bodies.

I wish I had a photo of a shingle roof I saw. Apparently the guy
intended to seal the shingles along the edges -- it lifted the shingle
edges everywhere he used it.

--
"Dumb is local...As soon as you go 15 miles away from your dumbness, you see how dumb you are." -- Sherrod Small

On 9/18/2013 3:22 PM, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 18 Sep 2013 14:55:49 -0400, Nate Nagel
wrote:

I'd be careful using the foam in closed areas of a car body - it's been
done in the past, e.g. the "roll bar" of the Porsche 914, it seemed to
actually accelerate the rust. If you do foam closed areas make sure
they are well and truly closed and that no water is going to get in
there. It can make a real difference in stiffness and noise reduction
though.

It makes no sense to me to use GS foam in a car body. It will retain
moisture if exposed and likely rust the body.

There are products intended to dampen sound and seal car bodies.

I wish I had a photo of a shingle roof I saw. Apparently the guy
intended to seal the shingles along the edges -- it lifted the shingle
edges everywhere he used it.


Gorilla glue will expand too if left unclamped. It's also a
polyurethane and cured by moisture. Putting these glues in polyethylene
bottles insures intrusion of moisture and eventually they will harden in
the bottle. Sealed cans of polyurethane should be OK but I see use by
date on one I've got.

Several years, and several vehicles ago, I
noticed the one edge of my van that was NOT
rusting was full of great stuff foam. Since
then, I've used it to advantage.

No sense? Hey, I'm not seeking understanding.
Just results.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/18/2013 3:22 PM, Oren wrote:

It makes no sense to me to use GS foam in a car body. It will retain
moisture if exposed and likely rust the body.

On 9/18/2013 2:22 PM, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 18 Sep 2013 14:55:49 -0400, Nate Nagel
wrote:

I'd be careful using the foam in closed areas of a car body - it's been
done in the past, e.g. the "roll bar" of the Porsche 914, it seemed to
actually accelerate the rust. If you do foam closed areas make sure
they are well and truly closed and that no water is going to get in
there. It can make a real difference in stiffness and noise reduction
though.

It makes no sense to me to use GS foam in a car body. It will retain
moisture if exposed and likely rust the body.

There are products intended to dampen sound and seal car bodies.

I wish I had a photo of a shingle roof I saw. Apparently the guy
intended to seal the shingles along the edges -- it lifted the shingle
edges everywhere he used it.


Automotive undercoating is available in aerosol cans at most auto parts
stores and it does a fairly good job in damping vibrations and
mitigating noise. ^_^

TDD

I didn't date the cans, but off hand they were more than a year old.

Yes, the foam expands over the next 24 hours or so. Plan on it oozing
out all over. After it's hardened, I trim it with a steak knife, or
utility knife. Paint it, if exposed to sunlight.

One friend foamed around his storm door jamb. The expansion was such,
that the storm door didn't close after that. The jamb pushed in.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/18/2013 2:48 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I agree with everything except for your first comment. I've used unopened
cans of Great Stuff at least a year after they were bought with no
problems. Perhaps we need to know your definition of "in advance".

I don't know about the rust prevention, so I'll take your word for it.

2 other tips:

1 - You'll need less than you think to fill a gap, it will expand beyond
the opening. Expect it, embrace it.
2 - Don't put your window or door trim back on for at least 24 hours. When
#1 happens, it'll ooze out from behind the trim and be a real pain to clean
up. BTDT

I learned of this, by accident. One corner near the
right front wheel on a work van, was rusting less
than the rest of the the other sheet metal. I noticed
someone before me had foamed it in. I've done this
several times since then, and the foam seems to
slow down the rusting.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/18/2013 2:55 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:


I'd be careful using the foam in closed areas of a car body - it's been
done in the past, e.g. the "roll bar" of the Porsche 914, it seemed to
actually accelerate the rust. If you do foam closed areas make sure
they are well and truly closed and that no water is going to get in
there. It can make a real difference in stiffness and noise reduction
though.

nate

Stormin Mormon wrote:
I didn't date the cans, but off hand they were more than a year old.

Yes, the foam expands over the next 24 hours or so. Plan on it oozing out
all over. After it's hardened, I trim it with a steak knife, or utility
knife. Paint it, if exposed to sunlight.

One friend foamed around his storm door jamb. The expansion was such,
that the storm door didn't close after that. The jamb pushed in.

.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

On 9/18/2013 2:48 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I agree with everything except for your first comment. I've used unopened
cans of Great Stuff at least a year after they were bought with no
problems. Perhaps we need to know your definition of "in advance".

I don't know about the rust prevention, so I'll take your word for it.

2 other tips:

1 - You'll need less than you think to fill a gap, it will expand beyond
the opening. Expect it, embrace it.
2 - Don't put your window or door trim back on for at least 24 hours. When
#1 happens, it'll ooze out from behind the trim and be a real pain to clean
up. BTDT


"One friend foamed around his storm door jamb. The expansion was such,
that the storm door didn't close after that. The jamb pushed in."

Throughout this thread we have been speaking of Great Stuff as if it's a
single product. As I'm sure you know, Great Stuff is actually the name of a
product line consisting of at least 6 different types of foams, each
designed for a specific application.

One such product is Great Stuff Window & Door. The description on their
website says that it uses a "Proprietary low-pressure formula designed not
to bow bend (sic) window and door frames".

I have used GS W&D on multiple windows and doors and never had a problem
with bowing of the frame or jamb. When the foam expanded, it expanded
outward, not sideways.

Perhaps your friend used the wrong product.

I've just pitched out a couple old cans of GS "waterfall
filler, pond and stone". Green can, got them cheap at
Real Deals Dollar Store, a couple years ago. Cost me a
dollar to... throw them away.

Thanks for the reminder, the other stuff. You're likely
right, wrong type of GS for the job.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/19/2013 9:13 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

"One friend foamed around his storm door jamb. The expansion was such,
that the storm door didn't close after that. The jamb pushed in."

Throughout this thread we have been speaking of Great Stuff as if it's a
single product. As I'm sure you know, Great Stuff is actually the name of a
product line consisting of at least 6 different types of foams, each
designed for a specific application.

One such product is Great Stuff Window & Door. The description on their
website says that it uses a "Proprietary low-pressure formula designed not
to bow bend (sic) window and door frames".

I have used GS W&D on multiple windows and doors and never had a problem
with bowing of the frame or jamb. When the foam expanded, it expanded
outward, not sideways.

Perhaps your friend used the wrong product.

On Wed, 18 Sep 2013 23:53:38 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

Automotive undercoating is available in aerosol cans at most auto parts
stores and it does a fairly good job in damping vibrations and
mitigating noise. ^_^

ISTR, in early days, folks used roofing tar and thinned it with
kerosene in order to paint in on with a brush. I forget _exactly_
what it was used for. Undercoating would seem to apply. I think it was
before you could buy in an automotive store.

On 9/19/2013 12:26 PM, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 18 Sep 2013 23:53:38 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

Automotive undercoating is available in aerosol cans at most auto parts
stores and it does a fairly good job in damping vibrations and
mitigating noise. ^_^

ISTR, in early days, folks used roofing tar and thinned it with
kerosene in order to paint in on with a brush. I forget _exactly_
what it was used for. Undercoating would seem to apply. I think it was
before you could buy in an automotive store.


When I was building stereo speakers, one of the techniques for damping
vibration in the wooden speaker box was to pour roofing tar into the
corners of the enclosure along with a layer overall and it worked very
well at cleaning up the sound. ^_^

TDD