I'm putting up , 1/2x6" finger-jointed cedar clapboards. (actual board
width is 5 1/4") Nominal exposure seems to be 4". My spacing around a
window would work better if i went to 4 1/4".

I'd appreciate opinions on whether this is too wide. I can 'go narrow',
but that would create some other problems.

Thanks.

On 9/1/2013 10:33 AM, George wrote:
I'm putting up , 1/2x6" finger-jointed cedar clapboards. (actual board
width is 5 1/4") Nominal exposure seems to be 4". My spacing around a
window would work better if i went to 4 1/4".

I'd appreciate opinions on whether this is too wide. I can 'go narrow',
but that would create some other problems.

Thanks.



The 41/4 will be fine. It would be better to story out all situations
and adjust the exposure well in advance. Check bottom of windows, top
of windows, and any other intrusions. Check where you will course out
at the top - you don't want to end up with some small rip.

--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven

On Sun, 01 Sep 2013 11:33:04 -0400, George
wrote:

I'm putting up , 1/2x6" finger-jointed cedar clapboards. (actual board
width is 5 1/4") Nominal exposure seems to be 4". My spacing around a
window would work better if i went to 4 1/4".

What is a "finger-joint" clapboard? All the clapboards I've put up
are "lapped".

I'd appreciate opinions on whether this is too wide. I can 'go narrow',
but that would create some other problems.

It's pushing it. The boards are going to get kinda thin. You might
get some splitting. If it does, you have to remove both layers. If
you're hand nailing this, I'd drill (1/16") pilot holes for the end
holes.

wrote in :

On Sun, 01 Sep 2013 11:33:04 -0400, George
wrote:

I'm putting up , 1/2x6" finger-jointed cedar clapboards. (actual board
width is 5 1/4") Nominal exposure seems to be 4". My spacing around a
window would work better if i went to 4 1/4".

What is a "finger-joint" clapboard? All the clapboards I've put up
are "lapped".

I'd appreciate opinions on whether this is too wide. I can 'go narrow',
but that would create some other problems.

It's pushing it. The boards are going to get kinda thin. You might
get some splitting. If it does, you have to remove both layers. If
you're hand nailing this, I'd drill (1/16") pilot holes for the end
holes.


Finger jointed to make length. Just like FJ trimboards, brickmold, etc.

On Mon, 2 Sep 2013 17:18:14 +0000 (UTC), Red Green
wrote:

wrote in :

On Sun, 01 Sep 2013 11:33:04 -0400, George
wrote:

I'm putting up , 1/2x6" finger-jointed cedar clapboards. (actual board
width is 5 1/4") Nominal exposure seems to be 4". My spacing around a
window would work better if i went to 4 1/4".

What is a "finger-joint" clapboard? All the clapboards I've put up
are "lapped".

I'd appreciate opinions on whether this is too wide. I can 'go narrow',
but that would create some other problems.

It's pushing it. The boards are going to get kinda thin. You might
get some splitting. If it does, you have to remove both layers. If
you're hand nailing this, I'd drill (1/16") pilot holes for the end
holes.


Finger jointed to make length. Just like FJ trimboards, brickmold, etc.

I thought about that after I posted. IOW, they're intended to be
painted. I'd just make sure the fingers aren't close to the end (at
least two studs on each piece.

On Sun, 01 Sep 2013 20:00:14 -0500, DanG wrote:

On 9/1/2013 10:33 AM, George wrote:
I'm putting up , 1/2x6" finger-jointed cedar clapboards. (actual board
width is 5 1/4") Nominal exposure seems to be 4". My spacing around a
window would work better if i went to 4 1/4".

I'd appreciate opinions on whether this is too wide. I can 'go narrow',
but that would create some other problems.

Thanks.



The 41/4 will be fine. It would be better to story out all situations
and adjust the exposure well in advance. Check bottom of windows, top
of windows, and any other intrusions. Check where you will course out
at the top - you don't want to end up with some small rip.

When I laid mine out, I designed it so there would be a 1-1/4" (5-1/4"
board minus 1-1/4" = 4" reveal) strip against the soffits. That
leaves a full board at the top. You're going to have to rip one board
in any case.

wrote in :

On Mon, 2 Sep 2013 17:18:14 +0000 (UTC), Red Green
wrote:

wrote in
m:

On Sun, 01 Sep 2013 11:33:04 -0400, George
wrote:

I'm putting up , 1/2x6" finger-jointed cedar clapboards. (actual
board width is 5 1/4") Nominal exposure seems to be 4". My spacing
around a window would work better if i went to 4 1/4".

What is a "finger-joint" clapboard? All the clapboards I've put up
are "lapped".

I'd appreciate opinions on whether this is too wide. I can 'go
narrow', but that would create some other problems.

It's pushing it. The boards are going to get kinda thin. You might
get some splitting. If it does, you have to remove both layers. If
you're hand nailing this, I'd drill (1/16") pilot holes for the end
holes.


Finger jointed to make length. Just like FJ trimboards, brickmold,
etc.

I thought about that after I posted. IOW, they're intended to be
painted. I'd just make sure the fingers aren't close to the end (at
least two studs on each piece.


If they are FJ they will most likely be primed anyway. Usually an oil
prime on all surfaces.

On Mon, 2 Sep 2013 22:05:30 +0000 (UTC), Red Green
wrote:

wrote in :

On Mon, 2 Sep 2013 17:18:14 +0000 (UTC), Red Green
wrote:

wrote in
:

On Sun, 01 Sep 2013 11:33:04 -0400, George
wrote:

I'm putting up , 1/2x6" finger-jointed cedar clapboards. (actual
board width is 5 1/4") Nominal exposure seems to be 4". My spacing
around a window would work better if i went to 4 1/4".

What is a "finger-joint" clapboard? All the clapboards I've put up
are "lapped".

I'd appreciate opinions on whether this is too wide. I can 'go
narrow', but that would create some other problems.

It's pushing it. The boards are going to get kinda thin. You might
get some splitting. If it does, you have to remove both layers. If
you're hand nailing this, I'd drill (1/16") pilot holes for the end
holes.


Finger jointed to make length. Just like FJ trimboards, brickmold,
etc.

I thought about that after I posted. IOW, they're intended to be
painted. I'd just make sure the fingers aren't close to the end (at
least two studs on each piece.


If they are FJ they will most likely be primed anyway. Usually an oil
prime on all surfaces.

Not sure what you're getting at here, the paint or where to cut? That
wouldn't change my caution to avoid splices at the end of boards.

On 9/2/2013 2:41 PM, wrote:


When I laid mine out, I designed it so there would be a 1-1/4" (5-1/4"
board minus 1-1/4" = 4" reveal) strip against the soffits. That
leaves a full board at the top. You're going to have to rip one board
in any case.

If you get to the top of the windows and remeasure, you can often change
the reveal to get a full board. Go from the 4 1/4 to 4 1/8 for a couple
of boards, then 4" for the rest. Done in small increments it will not be
noticed by eye.

On Mon, 02 Sep 2013 19:33:01 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 9/2/2013 2:41 PM, wrote:


When I laid mine out, I designed it so there would be a 1-1/4" (5-1/4"
board minus 1-1/4" = 4" reveal) strip against the soffits. That
leaves a full board at the top. You're going to have to rip one board
in any case.

If you get to the top of the windows and remeasure, you can often change
the reveal to get a full board. Go from the 4 1/4 to 4 1/8 for a couple
of boards, then 4" for the rest. Done in small increments it will not be
noticed by eye.

I certainly don't want a full board at the top. That would be a
5-1/4" reveal when the rest of the wall is a 4" reveal. I don't want
the thin edge of the board exposed, either. I'd rather have the
narrow stip, so the full thickness (full board + 1-1/4" finishing
strip) is against the sofit, allowing normal nailing of the top edge.

I agree that you can change the reveal, in small increments, to make
it lay out right (and make up for any errors).

Ed Pawlowski wrote in
:

On 9/2/2013 2:41 PM, wrote:


When I laid mine out, I designed it so there would be a 1-1/4" (5-1/4"
board minus 1-1/4" = 4" reveal) strip against the soffits. That
leaves a full board at the top. You're going to have to rip one board
in any case.

If you get to the top of the windows and remeasure, you can often change
the reveal to get a full board. Go from the 4 1/4 to 4 1/8 for a couple
of boards, then 4" for the rest. Done in small increments it will not be
noticed by eye.

Just like for roofing. It's just math... Ouch, the M word!