I have a load bearing cmu block wall (roof ties into it) that a plumber
had to access inside to get to a water line to abandon. To do this he
knocked out approximately a 12" tall by 8" wide hole in the wall near the
bottom with a hammer (wall is a 10' tall and 8x4x16 open cell block not
filled or rebar). See image.


Should I be concerned about the structural integrity of the wall being
compromised from a hole this size, or should I add any kind of support to
it?

Also, what can be done to cover back up the hole?

--
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On Thu, 08 Aug 2013 14:44:01 +0000, phxmod
wrote:

I have a load bearing cmu block wall (roof ties into it) that a plumber
had to access inside to get to a water line to abandon. To do this he
knocked out approximately a 12" tall by 8" wide hole in the wall near the
bottom with a hammer (wall is a 10' tall and 8x4x16 open cell block not
filled or rebar). See image.

http://www.homeownershub.com/img/10

Broken link fixed.


Should I be concerned about the structural integrity of the wall being
compromised from a hole this size, or should I add any kind of support to
it?

Also, what can be done to cover back up the hole?

Replace some blocks?

Oren wrote:

On Thu, 08 Aug 2013 14:44:01 +0000, phxmod
wrote:

I have a load bearing cmu block wall (roof ties into it) that a plumber
had to access inside to get to a water line to abandon. To do this he
knocked out approximately a 12" tall by 8" wide hole in the wall near the
bottom with a hammer (wall is a 10' tall and 8x4x16 open cell block not
filled or rebar). See image.

http://www.homeownershub.com/img/10

Broken link fixed.


Should I be concerned about the structural integrity of the wall being
compromised from a hole this size, or should I add any kind of support to
it?

Also, what can be done to cover back up the hole?

Replace some blocks?

Mix up some cement to a good "plastic" consistency, pack it into the
compromised cells and brace a piece of plywood against the wall so the
cement doesn't slump as it cures. Will be at least as strong as the
unfilled block was originally.

On Thu, 08 Aug 2013 14:44:01 +0000, phxmod
wrote:

I have a load bearing cmu block wall (roof ties into it) that a plumber
had to access inside to get to a water line to abandon. To do this he
knocked out approximately a 12" tall by 8" wide hole in the wall near the
bottom with a hammer (wall is a 10' tall and 8x4x16 open cell block not
filled or rebar). See image.


Should I be concerned about the structural integrity of the wall being
compromised from a hole this size, or should I add any kind of support to
it?

Also, what can be done to cover back up the hole?

The advice that has already been given is good.

However, the plumber that ran his line directly over an electrical
outlet should have known better! If you are going to patch the hole
the plumber made it would be prudent to move the electrical box to a
safer location that is at least above, and further away if possible,
from the plumbing before that is done.

On Thu, 08 Aug 2013 11:33:04 -0500, Gordon Shumway
wrote:

However, the plumber that ran his line directly over an electrical
outlet should have known better! If you are going to patch the hole
the plumber made it would be prudent to move the electrical box to a
safer location that is at least above, and further away if possible,
from the plumbing before that is done.

Excellent point. I missed the obvious electrical box being a problem.

(It looks like a 220 V to me?)

Why so many solder connections - seems it could be simplified.

On 8/8/2013 11:38 AM, Pete C. wrote:

Oren wrote:

On Thu, 08 Aug 2013 14:44:01 +0000, phxmod
wrote:

I have a load bearing cmu block wall (roof ties into it) that a plumber
had to access inside to get to a water line to abandon. To do this he
knocked out approximately a 12" tall by 8" wide hole in the wall near the
bottom with a hammer (wall is a 10' tall and 8x4x16 open cell block not
filled or rebar). See image.

http://www.homeownershub.com/img/10

Broken link fixed.


Should I be concerned about the structural integrity of the wall being
compromised from a hole this size, or should I add any kind of support to
it?

Also, what can be done to cover back up the hole?

Replace some blocks?

Mix up some cement to a good "plastic" consistency, pack it into the
compromised cells and brace a piece of plywood against the wall so the
cement doesn't slump as it cures. Will be at least as strong as the
unfilled block was originally.


http://www.copper.org/applications/p..._concrete.html

read this before you do it. might want to wrap the pipes first

nate

"phxmod" wrote in
message roups.com...
I have a load bearing cmu block wall (roof ties into it) that a plumber
had to access inside to get to a water line to abandon. To do this he
knocked out approximately a 12" tall by 8" wide hole in the wall near the
bottom with a hammer (wall is a 10' tall and 8x4x16 open cell block not
filled or rebar). See image.


Should I be concerned about the structural integrity of the wall being
compromised from a hole this size, or should I add any kind of support to
it?
Also, what can be done to cover back up the hole?

--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...rn-758647-.htm
using HomeOwnersHub's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface
to home and garden related groups


4" block walls should NEVER be load bearing, check to see as it may be a
masonry veneer on a wood stud load bearing wall.

Nate Nagel wrote:

On 8/8/2013 11:38 AM, Pete C. wrote:

Oren wrote:

On Thu, 08 Aug 2013 14:44:01 +0000, phxmod
wrote:

I have a load bearing cmu block wall (roof ties into it) that a plumber
had to access inside to get to a water line to abandon. To do this he
knocked out approximately a 12" tall by 8" wide hole in the wall near the
bottom with a hammer (wall is a 10' tall and 8x4x16 open cell block not
filled or rebar). See image.

http://www.homeownershub.com/img/10

Broken link fixed.


Should I be concerned about the structural integrity of the wall being
compromised from a hole this size, or should I add any kind of support to
it?

Also, what can be done to cover back up the hole?

Replace some blocks?

Mix up some cement to a good "plastic" consistency, pack it into the
compromised cells and brace a piece of plywood against the wall so the
cement doesn't slump as it cures. Will be at least as strong as the
unfilled block was originally.


http://www.copper.org/applications/p..._concrete.html

read this before you do it. might want to wrap the pipes first

nate

Didn't look at pics, this is USENET and a text group. Didn't the OP
mention something about "abandon", implying the plumbing is no longer in
use?

You do realize this is Usenet, not web forum?

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 8/8/2013 10:44 AM, phxmod wrote:
I have a load bearing cmu block wall (roof ties into it) that a plumber

--
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On Thu, 08 Aug 2013 16:28:37 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Nate Nagel wrote:

On 8/8/2013 11:38 AM, Pete C. wrote:

Oren wrote:

On Thu, 08 Aug 2013 14:44:01 +0000, phxmod
wrote:

I have a load bearing cmu block wall (roof ties into it) that a plumber
had to access inside to get to a water line to abandon. To do this he
knocked out approximately a 12" tall by 8" wide hole in the wall near the
bottom with a hammer (wall is a 10' tall and 8x4x16 open cell block not
filled or rebar). See image.

http://www.homeownershub.com/img/10

Broken link fixed.


Should I be concerned about the structural integrity of the wall being
compromised from a hole this size, or should I add any kind of support to
it?

Also, what can be done to cover back up the hole?

Replace some blocks?

Mix up some cement to a good "plastic" consistency, pack it into the
compromised cells and brace a piece of plywood against the wall so the
cement doesn't slump as it cures. Will be at least as strong as the
unfilled block was originally.


http://www.copper.org/applications/p..._concrete.html

read this before you do it. might want to wrap the pipes first

nate

Didn't look at pics, this is USENET and a text group. Didn't the OP
mention something about "abandon", implying the plumbing is no longer in
use?

Oops. I missed that :-(

Maybe the abandoned portion is on the other side of the wall. Maybe?

If so, then I didn't miss it. g

In article ,
Oren wrote:

Excellent point. I missed the obvious electrical box being a problem.

(It looks like a 220 V to me?)

Why so many solder connections - seems it could be simplified.

Looks like a 20amp receptacle to me.

---john.

replying to EXT , phxmod wrote:
noemail wrote:

"phxmod" wrote in
message roups.com...
4" block walls should NEVER be load bearing, check to see as it may be a
masonry veneer on a wood stud load bearing wall.




EXT - The block is 4" tall, not 4" deep. It's 8" deep/thick wall, and 16"
long.
--


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replying to Gordon Shumway , phxmod wrote:
Rhonda wrote:

On Thu, 08 Aug 2013 14:44:01 +0000, phxmod
The advice that has already been given is good.
However, the plumber that ran his line directly over an electrical
outlet should have known better! If you are going to patch the hole
the plumber made it would be prudent to move the electrical box to a
safer location that is at least above, and further away if possible,
from the plumbing before that is done.




--
To clarify, not all the lines were abandoned. This is a kitchen wall with
a manifold coming up with supply lines going to a sink to the left and to
a refrigerator hookup on right. I had one of the lines was abandoned that
went under the slab to an old refrigerator location.

The wall is 16' long and 10' tall, it is bearing.

--
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A hole that size near the bottom would not compromise the load bearing strength of the all at all.

4" tall open cell block? I can't say I have ever seen such. Solid 4x8x16 yes, not open cell....oops, yes I have but the open cell is very small, I have used a few myself.

Harry K

"phxmod" wrote in
message roups.com...
replying to EXT , phxmod wrote:
noemail wrote:

"phxmod" wrote in
message roups.com... 4"
block walls should NEVER be load bearing, check to see as it may be a
masonry veneer on a wood stud load bearing wall.



EXT - The block is 4" tall, not 4" deep. It's 8" deep/thick wall, and 16"
long.

Personally, I would use a chisel and a angle grinder with a diamond blade to
clean up the edges and then cut some new blocks to size to fit but using
only the face of the block not the full depth. This way the block patches
would be only 1 1/2 to 2 inches deep. Mortar them into place carefully, it
may take a couple of days because the lower levels may have to firm up
before they are stable enough to go higher. If you don't care how the patch
looks you may be able to get some concrete bricks to use on their side to
fill the hole. Structurally, the wall is fine, window openings are much
larger, something this small won't need a lintel.

On Thursday, August 8, 2013 12:49:16 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 08 Aug 2013 11:33:04 -0500, Gordon Shumway

wrote:



However, the plumber that ran his line directly over an electrical

outlet should have known better! If you are going to patch the hole

the plumber made it would be prudent to move the electrical box to a

safer location that is at least above, and further away if possible,

from the plumbing before that is done.



Excellent point. I missed the obvious electrical box being a problem.



I don't know of any US electrical code that is violated
by what is in the picture. A water pipe few inches away
from an outlet or one that is 6 feet above it, if the pipe
leaks or breaks, water will still get to the outlet.





(It looks like a 220 V to me?)



Why so many solder connections - seems it could be simplified.

On Fri, 9 Aug 2013 08:30:09 -0400, "EXT"
wrote:

Personally, I would use a chisel and a angle grinder with a diamond blade to
clean up the edges and then cut some new blocks to size to fit but using
only the face of the block not the full depth. This way the block patches
would be only 1 1/2 to 2 inches deep. Mortar them into place carefully, it
may take a couple of days because the lower levels may have to firm up
before they are stable enough to go higher. If you don't care how the patch
looks you may be able to get some concrete bricks to use on their side to
fill the hole. Structurally, the wall is fine, window openings are much
larger, something this small won't need a lintel.

+1

A local needed block fence repaired. The wall had "split face" block.

What you said. Replaced just the face.

http://rcpblock.com/images/products/block/splitface-product-natural.jpg

Looks like new.