Hi All,

I am remodeling my garage and noticed that the drywall is not attached
(screwed) to the sill plate and somewhat bowed outwards at the bottom because
of this. I plan on attaching 1X4s for baseboard with finishing nails but I
am concerned that hammering might break the drywall due to the age of it.

Should I firm it up with drywall screws in a few places into the sill plate
or not? Don't want to waste my time if not needed. Any advice appreciated


James

On Wednesday, July 31, 2013 7:43:12 PM UTC-5, James Harvey wrote:
Hi All, I am remodeling my garage and noticed that the drywall is not attached (screwed) to the sill plate and somewhat bowed outwards at the bottom because of this. I plan on attaching 1X4s for baseboard with finishing nails but I am concerned that hammering might break the drywall due to the age of it. Should I firm it up with drywall screws in a few places into the sill plate or not? Don't want to waste my time if not needed. Any advice appreciated James

A couple or three photos, a close-up, a med and a distant shot would sure be helpful since you don't say how bowed out the sheetrock is.

James Harvey wrote:
Hi All,

I am remodeling my garage and noticed that the drywall is not attached
(screwed) to the sill plate and somewhat bowed outwards at the bottom because
of this. I plan on attaching 1X4s for baseboard with finishing nails but I
am concerned that hammering might break the drywall due to the age of it.

Should I firm it up with drywall screws in a few places into the sill plate
or not? Don't want to waste my time if not needed. Any advice appreciated


James

Hi,
Bowing drywall? Rather frame behind drywall is bowing.

On Wednesday, July 31, 2013 8:43:12 PM UTC-4, James Harvey wrote:
Hi All,



I am remodeling my garage and noticed that the drywall is not attached

(screwed) to the sill plate and somewhat bowed outwards at the bottom because

of this. I plan on attaching 1X4s for baseboard with finishing nails but I

am concerned that hammering might break the drywall due to the age of it.



I would share that concern.





Should I firm it up with drywall screws in a few places into the sill plate

or not? Don't want to waste my time if not needed. Any advice appreciated





James

If it's bowed out more than just a little, those drywall screws are
also likely to break it. Why do you need or want the trim molding?

"James Harvey" wrote in message
thlink.net...
Hi All,

I am remodeling my garage and noticed that the drywall is not attached
(screwed) to the sill plate and somewhat bowed outwards at the bottom
because
of this. I plan on attaching 1X4s for baseboard with finishing nails but
I
am concerned that hammering might break the drywall due to the age of it.

Should I firm it up with drywall screws in a few places into the sill
plate
or not? Don't want to waste my time if not needed. Any advice
appreciated


Use screws, not nails.

On Wednesday, July 31, 2013 8:43:12 PM UTC-4, James Harvey wrote:
Hi All,



I am remodeling my garage and noticed that the drywall is not attached

(screwed) to the sill plate and somewhat bowed outwards at the bottom because

of this. I plan on attaching 1X4s for baseboard with finishing nails but I

am concerned that hammering might break the drywall due to the age of it.



Should I firm it up with drywall screws in a few places into the sill plate

or not? Don't want to waste my time if not needed. Any advice appreciated





James

I'm guessing this is sitting on top of a block or concrete foundation? I'd add screws. You might check and see if there is both a sill plate as well as a wall bottom board? Like this. http://cteg.com/IMG_2337.JPG In that case I would screw to the non-pt board and trim the bottom of the wall board so it ends at the top of the pt sill plate. The pt on a foundation sill deals with the damp block/concrete and sort of protects the construction above there. Wall board doesn't handle damp well and that's probably why it has bowed out. It's damp on the backside from the contact with the sill plate. Long term the wallboard will deteriorate further if it stays damp. I would also look at a non-wood solution for adding trim to it. There are composite trim boards you could use. Personally I install wallboard in garages so the bottom edge is several inches above the foundation and then I trim to cover the gap using 8" hardiplank beaded siding as a trim board. The hardiplank won't care about a little moisture.

On Wed, 31 Jul 2013 20:12:56 -0500, wrote
(in article ):

On Wednesday, July 31, 2013 7:43:12 PM UTC-5, James Harvey wrote:
Hi All, I am remodeling my garage and noticed that the drywall is not
attached (screwed) to the sill plate and somewhat bowed outwards at the
bottom because of this. I plan on attaching 1X4s for baseboard with
finishing nails but I am concerned that hammering might break the drywall
due to the age of it. Should I firm it up with drywall screws in a few
places into the sill plate or not? Don't want to waste my time if not
needed. Any advice appreciated James

A couple or three photos, a close-up, a med and a distant shot would sure be
helpful since you don't say how bowed out the sheetrock is.

They are bowed less than 3/8" I'd say. Can probably live with that.

On Thu, 1 Aug 2013 01:53:02 -0500, Tony Hwang wrote
(in article ):

James Harvey wrote:
Hi All,

I am remodeling my garage and noticed that the drywall is not attached
(screwed) to the sill plate and somewhat bowed outwards at the bottom
because
of this. I plan on attaching 1X4s for baseboard with finishing nails but I
am concerned that hammering might break the drywall due to the age of it.

Should I firm it up with drywall screws in a few places into the sill plate
or not? Don't want to waste my time if not needed. Any advice appreciated


James

Hi,
Bowing drywall? Rather frame behind drywall is bowing.

Could be. Hadn't thought of that.

On Thu, 1 Aug 2013 07:59:20 -0500, wrote
(in article ):

On Wednesday, July 31, 2013 8:43:12 PM UTC-4, James Harvey wrote:
Hi All,



I am remodeling my garage and noticed that the drywall is not attached

(screwed) to the sill plate and somewhat bowed outwards at the bottom
because

of this. I plan on attaching 1X4s for baseboard with finishing nails but I

am concerned that hammering might break the drywall due to the age of it.



I would share that concern.





Should I firm it up with drywall screws in a few places into the sill plate

or not? Don't want to waste my time if not needed. Any advice
appreciated





James

If it's bowed out more than just a little, those drywall screws are
also likely to break it. Why do you need or want the trim molding?

It's just a little. Want to protect the bottom edge of drywall from being
easily damaged.

On Thu, 1 Aug 2013 13:13:28 -0500, jamesgang wrote
(in article ):

On Wednesday, July 31, 2013 8:43:12 PM UTC-4, James Harvey wrote:
Hi All,



I am remodeling my garage and noticed that the drywall is not attached

(screwed) to the sill plate and somewhat bowed outwards at the bottom
because

of this. I plan on attaching 1X4s for baseboard with finishing nails but I

am concerned that hammering might break the drywall due to the age of it.



Should I firm it up with drywall screws in a few places into the sill plate

or not? Don't want to waste my time if not needed. Any advice
appreciated





James

I'm guessing this is sitting on top of a block or concrete foundation? I'd
add screws. You might check and see if there is both a sill plate as well as

a wall bottom board? Like this. http://cteg.com/IMG_2337.JPG In that case
I would screw to the non-pt board and trim the bottom of the wall board so it

ends at the top of the pt sill plate. The pt on a foundation sill deals with

the damp block/concrete and sort of protects the construction above there.
Wall board doesn't handle damp well and that's probably why it has bowed out.

It's damp on the backside from the contact with the sill plate. Long term
the wallboard will deteriorate further if it stays damp. I would also look
at a non-wood solution for adding trim to it. There are composite trim
boards you could use. Personally I install wallboard in garages so the
bottom edge is several inches above the foundation and then I trim to cover
the gap using 8" hardiplank beaded siding as a trim board. The hardiplank
won't care about a little moisture.

Yeah that's pretty much what it looks like but the bottom plate is just a
single board, not doubled up as far as I can tell. Thanks for the
suggestions!

On Wed, 31 Jul 2013 19:43:12 -0500, James Harvey
wrote:

Hi All,

I am remodeling my garage and noticed that the drywall is not attached
(screwed) to the sill plate and somewhat bowed outwards at the bottom because
of this. I plan on attaching 1X4s for baseboard with finishing nails but I
am concerned that hammering might break the drywall due to the age of it.

Should I firm it up with drywall screws in a few places into the sill plate
or not? Don't want to waste my time if not needed. Any advice appreciated


James

Concerned about wasting time, huh? If you would have just screwed in
an appropriate amount of screws to solve the problem it would have
probably taken a lot less time than it took to post your question.

That's my advice.

Tony Hwang wrote:
James Harvey wrote:
Hi All,

I am remodeling my garage and noticed that the drywall is not attached
(screwed) to the sill plate and somewhat bowed outwards at the bottom
because
of this. I plan on attaching 1X4s for baseboard with finishing nails
but I
am concerned that hammering might break the drywall due to the age of it.

Should I firm it up with drywall screws in a few places into the sill
plate
or not? Don't want to waste my time if not needed. Any advice
appreciated


James

Hi,
Bowing drywall? Rather frame behind drywall is bowing.

Don't know about OTs construction, but most sill plates are bolted to
the concrete foundation. I know mine are because I was there when it was
done.

--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
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