I have a friend who just called me asking for help with her
garbage disposal leaking out the bottom.

I have never dealt with them, but, I asked her to read the label
and she said it was an "Emerson Evergrind E202 1/2 HP" unit.

She said it's leaking out the bottom, even when not in use
(but when water is in the sink).

I'll see if I can stop by her house tomorrow - but - so that I'm
armed with some knowledge, have you any idea what to look for?

PS: This is the same sink that I had put the Fernco on a year
or so ago, but that's the *other* sink in her side-by-side sinks
(the left sink main drain has the fernco, and, it's apparently water
tight - while the right one has the garbage disposal which is
apparently now leaking).

Any idea how to troubleshoot what would make a garbage disposal
leak out the bottom?

"Danny D." wrote in message ...

I have a friend who just called me asking for help with her
garbage disposal leaking out the bottom.

I have never dealt with them, but, I asked her to read the label
and she said it was an "Emerson Evergrind E202 1/2 HP" unit.

She said it's leaking out the bottom, even when not in use
(but when water is in the sink).

I'll see if I can stop by her house tomorrow - but - so that I'm
armed with some knowledge, have you any idea what to look for?

PS: This is the same sink that I had put the Fernco on a year
or so ago, but that's the *other* sink in her side-by-side sinks
(the left sink main drain has the fernco, and, it's apparently water
tight - while the right one has the garbage disposal which is
apparently now leaking).

Any idea how to troubleshoot what would make a garbage disposal
leak out the bottom?

The seal under the disk with the (grinder) ears is bad. Therefore the water
has also gone through the upper and lower motor bearings. Time to toss it.
WW

On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 03:55:06 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

I have a friend who just called me asking for help with her
garbage disposal leaking out the bottom.

I have never dealt with them, but, I asked her to read the label
and she said it was an "Emerson Evergrind E202 1/2 HP" unit.

She said it's leaking out the bottom, even when not in use
(but when water is in the sink).

I'll see if I can stop by her house tomorrow - but - so that I'm
armed with some knowledge, have you any idea what to look for?

PS: This is the same sink that I had put the Fernco on a year
or so ago, but that's the *other* sink in her side-by-side sinks
(the left sink main drain has the fernco, and, it's apparently water
tight - while the right one has the garbage disposal which is
apparently now leaking).

Any idea how to troubleshoot what would make a garbage disposal
leak out the bottom?

Make sure it's leaking out the bottom, and not from the outlet for the
water that goes to the drain. That water might run down the side of
the disposal and make it look like it's leaking out the bottom.

WW wrote:


"Danny D." wrote in message ...

I have a friend who just called me asking for help with her
garbage disposal leaking out the bottom.

I have never dealt with them, but, I asked her to read the label
and she said it was an "Emerson Evergrind E202 1/2 HP" unit.

She said it's leaking out the bottom, even when not in use
(but when water is in the sink).

I'll see if I can stop by her house tomorrow - but - so that I'm
armed with some knowledge, have you any idea what to look for? How old is it?

PS: This is the same sink that I had put the Fernco on a year
or so ago, but that's the *other* sink in her side-by-side sinks
(the left sink main drain has the fernco, and, it's apparently water
tight - while the right one has the garbage disposal which is
apparently now leaking).

Any idea how to troubleshoot what would make a garbage disposal
leak out the bottom?

The seal under the disk with the (grinder) ears is bad. Therefore the
water has also gone through the upper and lower motor bearings. Time to
toss it. WW
Hi,
Concur. How old is it?

On Mon, 15 Jul 2013 23:27:59 -0600, Tony Hwang wrote:

Concur. How old is it?

I didn't think to ask - but the kitchen was remodeled in 2000 or 2001
or 2002 from what I remember (from the last time I worked on it).

So, I'd say 10 years.

BTW, I'm watching these "Girl with Wrench" plumbing videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2uztuEg9LSk

They're kinda long (7 five-minute vids for a garbage disposal; but
the videos have a couple added attractions to keep you interested).

On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 06:05:55 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Mon, 15 Jul 2013 23:27:59 -0600, Tony Hwang wrote:

Concur. How old is it?

I didn't think to ask - but the kitchen was remodeled in 2000 or 2001
or 2002 from what I remember (from the last time I worked on it).

So, I'd say 10 years.

Time for a new one.

I got mine on line at www.abt.com and saved a lot of money over local
stores. Saved about $100 on my Kitchen Aid.

On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 05:50:59 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Saved about $100 on my Kitchen Aid.

The current is Emerson, 1/2 HP.
I would tend to get her a good brand and high horsepower?
Would 3/4 HP be a good idea?
And, is Kitchen Aid a good brand?

EDIT: Googling for the same questions, I found this:
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/g...-disposers.htm

On Monday, July 15, 2013 11:55:06 PM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:
I have a friend who just called me asking for help with her

garbage disposal leaking out the bottom.



I have never dealt with them, but, I asked her to read the label

and she said it was an "Emerson Evergrind E202 1/2 HP" unit.



She said it's leaking out the bottom, even when not in use

(but when water is in the sink).



I'll see if I can stop by her house tomorrow - but - so that I'm

armed with some knowledge, have you any idea what to look for?



PS: This is the same sink that I had put the Fernco on a year

or so ago, but that's the *other* sink in her side-by-side sinks

(the left sink main drain has the fernco, and, it's apparently water

tight - while the right one has the garbage disposal which is

apparently now leaking).



Any idea how to troubleshoot what would make a garbage disposal

leak out the bottom?

Get under there with a flashlight and look?

On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 11:03:26 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

EDIT: Googling for the same questions, I found this:
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/g...-disposers.htm

Wow. CR is getting worse and worse. It used to be great; but,
that "buying guide" was nearly worthless.
http://consumerreports.org/cro/garba...ying-guide.htm

On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 00:11:58 -0400, micky wrote:

That water might run down the side of
the disposal and make it look like it's leaking out the bottom.

I understand. She said it was leaking out the bottom, but,
I'll bring a flashlight and look for myself.

I started listing what I'll need to bring ...
Basic wrenches & pliers
(large) allen wrenches
Camera, flashlight
Garbage disposal
towels & gloves
coat hanger & wire cutter
wire nuts & romex connector & wire pliers
screwdrivers & hose clamps
plumbers putty for flange
socket wrenches
hacksaw & sandpaper and angle grinder
channellocks & pipe wrench
level
voltmeter electrical tape stripper
pipe dope
knee pads
long backed shirt
pot and pans from garage & bbq
hammer & prybar and straight rod (for pounding)
strap wrench
tape measure & marker
electrical dialectric grease

On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 04:57:29 -0700, wrote:

Get under there with a flashlight and look?

I was just asking proactively, before I got there, as I
have never worked on a garbage disposal before.

If it's bad, I'm leaning toward adding horsepower, but I'd
have to check for fit.

But, I do agree: The absolute most powerful diagnostic
procedure is five minutes with a flashlight.

On Tuesday, July 16, 2013 6:03:26 AM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:
On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 05:50:59 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:



Saved about $100 on my Kitchen Aid.



The current is Emerson, 1/2 HP.

I would tend to get her a good brand and high horsepower?

Would 3/4 HP be a good idea?

And, is Kitchen Aid a good brand?



EDIT: Googling for the same questions, I found this:

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/g...-disposers.htm

At this point KitchenAid is only a name owned by Whirlpool...there is still a Hobart though (the original makers)!

Probably the most important tool in my box
is my mini mag with the one watt Teralux
module. And it's not even in my tool box,
carry it in my trouser pocket.
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..
..
"Danny D." wrote in message ...

But, I do agree: The absolute most powerful diagnostic
procedure is five minutes with a flashlight.

As you can see, the job involves several trades.

Plumber
Carpenter
Electrician
Wrench mechanic

Tools to include should also be dish pan, and turkey baster for moving water. Couple big towels to mop up the water, and a fan to dry it out. On this job, I'd bring along something to lay on. Carpet sample, or camping closed cell foam pad.
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..
..
"Danny D." wrote in message ...

I'll bring a flashlight and look for myself.

I started listing what I'll need to bring ...
Basic wrenches & pliers
(large) allen wrenches
Camera, flashlight
Garbage disposal
towels & gloves
coat hanger & wire cutter
wire nuts & romex connector & wire pliers
screwdrivers & hose clamps
plumbers putty for flange
socket wrenches
hacksaw & sandpaper and angle grinder
channellocks & pipe wrench
level
voltmeter electrical tape stripper
pipe dope
knee pads
long backed shirt
pot and pans from garage & bbq
hammer & prybar and straight rod (for pounding)
strap wrench
tape measure & marker
electrical dialectric grease

On Tuesday, July 16, 2013 7:32:54 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Probably the most important tool in my box

is my mini mag with the one watt Teralux

module. And it's not even in my tool box,

carry it in my trouser pocket.

Here's where you keep yours'

https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/i...WXxtmLHhMAs8g8

On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 08:32:54 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Probably the most important tool in my box
is my mini mag

On a.h.r, once, long ago, someone posted a link to an airline
report (FAA?) that concluded the absolute finest mechanical
diagnostic procedures on airplanes was a long hard visual look.

So, I don't disagree. The most important tool in the toolbox
is a good pair of reading glasses (these days) and a bright light!

My camera broke, so, I may only have fuzzy cellphone pictures
when I get there.

On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 12:04:15 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 00:11:58 -0400, micky wrote:

That water might run down the side of
the disposal and make it look like it's leaking out the bottom.

I understand. She said it was leaking out the bottom, but,
I'll bring a flashlight and look for myself.

I started listing what I'll need to bring ...
Basic wrenches & pliers
(large) allen wrenches
Camera, flashlight
Garbage disposal
towels & gloves
coat hanger & wire cutter
wire nuts & romex connector & wire pliers
screwdrivers & hose clamps
plumbers putty for flange
socket wrenches
hacksaw & sandpaper and angle grinder
channellocks & pipe wrench
level
voltmeter electrical tape stripper
pipe dope
knee pads
long backed shirt
pot and pans from garage & bbq
hammer & prybar and straight rod (for pounding)
strap wrench
tape measure & marker
electrical dialectric grease

Don't get bothered if you don't need all these things. The disposal
is likely made by In-Sink-Erator, since about 90% of disposals in
Amerca are, under one name or another, Everything that follows
applies only if it's made by insinkerator.

Removing and replacing it should only require a medium phillips, and
something to separate the right angle drain pipe (that you'll unscrew
from the disposal) from the rest of the drain.

After the wires and the drain are disconnected, a short
counter-clockwise turn (from the pov of the floor) will release the
disposal and let it fall down. If this is hard to do, you can put
medium or large phillips screwdrivers in one or two of horizontal
steel tubes at the top of the disposal, just below the sink. That
will give you some leverage. I suppose if you use cheap screwdrivers
they'll break. Or use that rod you said you would bring.

The ring on the sink can be used over and over again, even though each
new disposal comes with another ring.

The older I get the harder up the new one and hold it in place while I
turn it clockwise. That's become the hardest part. I actually use a
small floor jack (the one that look a bit like an alligator, with a
handle that sticks back, like a tail. ) to hold the disposal in place.

If there is enough room, (almost?) all models and all brand names of
insinkerator will fit in the same sink bracket.

On 07/15/2013 11:55 PM, Danny D. wrote:
I have a friend who just called me asking for help with her
garbage disposal leaking out the bottom.

I have never dealt with them, but, I asked her to read the label
and she said it was an "Emerson Evergrind E202 1/2 HP" unit.

She said it's leaking out the bottom, even when not in use
(but when water is in the sink).

I'll see if I can stop by her house tomorrow - but - so that I'm
armed with some knowledge, have you any idea what to look for?

PS: This is the same sink that I had put the Fernco on a year
or so ago, but that's the *other* sink in her side-by-side sinks
(the left sink main drain has the fernco, and, it's apparently water
tight - while the right one has the garbage disposal which is
apparently now leaking).

Any idea how to troubleshoot what would make a garbage disposal
leak out the bottom?


It's toast... I'm surprised it's still working. If it's leaking out
the bottom (and not running down the side which is less important) then
the seal at the bottom of the actual disposal area has failed and that
water is flowing through the electric motor. Just replaced one a few
weeks ago that had those exact symptoms...

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 7/15/2013 11:55 PM, Danny D. wrote:
I have a friend who just called me asking for help with her garbage
disposal leaking out the bottom.

I have never dealt with them, but, I asked her to read the label and
she said it was an "Emerson Evergrind E202 1/2 HP" unit.

She said it's leaking out the bottom, even when not in use (but when
water is in the sink).

I'll see if I can stop by her house tomorrow - but - so that I'm
armed with some knowledge, have you any idea what to look for?

PS: This is the same sink that I had put the Fernco on a year or so
ago, but that's the *other* sink in her side-by-side sinks (the left
sink main drain has the fernco, and, it's apparently water tight -
while the right one has the garbage disposal which is apparently now
leaking).

Any idea how to troubleshoot what would make a garbage disposal leak
out the bottom?


When my 20+ year-old disposal started leaking out of the bottom, it was
due to a corrosion hole in the bottom of the case. Otherwise, it still
was working perfectly. Got 3 more years of use from it by patching the
hole with waterproof glue.

On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 03:55:06 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

I'll see if I can stop by her house tomorrow - but - so that I'm
armed with some knowledge, have you any idea what to look for?

You have good advice already. A leak at the bottom is cause for
replacement. The leak can trip the reset button if it has one (?).

Does she have a dishwasher?

The install instructions have directions that address this. With a
dishwasher there is a "plug" you have to knock out before install,
otherwise water will backup into the opposite sink.

Make sure the air gap vent hose is mounted high on the back wall, too,

Samples:

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/attachments/plumbing/29993d1269632734-dishwasher-overflow-vent-sink-required-high-loop.jpg

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/attachments/plumbing/16988d1235612177-newly-chronic-overflow-dishwasher-dishwasher-air-gap-installation.gif

Bob_Villa wrote:
On Tuesday, July 16, 2013 6:03:26 AM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:
On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 05:50:59 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:



Saved about $100 on my Kitchen Aid.



The current is Emerson, 1/2 HP.

I would tend to get her a good brand and high horsepower?

Would 3/4 HP be a good idea?

And, is Kitchen Aid a good brand?



EDIT: Googling for the same questions, I found this:

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/g...-disposers.htm

At this point KitchenAid is only a name owned by Whirlpool...there is still a Hobart though (the original makers)!

Hi,
Any how when ours was getting old(dull blades, getting noisier) I found
a SS version direct replacement. Drop old one mount new one, done in
less than 1 hour) ISE model. Upgraded from 1/2 to 3/4 Hp one.

On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 03:55:06 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

any idea what to look for

BTW. Remove an save the power cord from the old disposal.

The new disposal will not have a power, iirc.

I said one watt, not one megawatt.

Miniature isn't just for Japanese.
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..
..
"Bob_Villa" wrote in message ...
On Tuesday, July 16, 2013 7:32:54 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Probably the most important tool in my box

is my mini mag with the one watt Teralux

module. And it's not even in my tool box,

carry it in my trouser pocket.

Here's where you keep yours'

https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/i...WXxtmLHhMAs8g8

Sorry about the camera. Below your text is a comical list that went around the net some years ago. Gives you a few things to check.
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..
..
"Danny D." wrote in message ...
On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 08:32:54 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Probably the most important tool in my box
is my mini mag

On a.h.r, once, long ago, someone posted a link to an airline
report (FAA?) that concluded the absolute finest mechanical
diagnostic procedures on airplanes was a long hard visual look.

So, I don't disagree. The most important tool in the toolbox
is a good pair of reading glasses (these days) and a bright light!

My camera broke, so, I may only have fuzzy cellphone pictures
when I get there.

==================================

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Problem - Left inside main tyre almost needs replacement.
Solution - Almost replaced left inside main tyre.

Problem - Test flight OK, except autoland very rough.
Solution - Autoland not installed on this aircraft.

Problem - No. 2 propeller seeping prop fluid.
Solution - No. 2 propeller seepage normal. Nos. 1, 3 and 4 propellers
lack normal seepage.

Problem - Something loose in cockpit.
Solution - Something tightened in cockpit.

Problem - Dead bugs on windshield.
Solution - Live bugs on backorder.

Problem - Autopilot in altitude-hold mode produces a 200-fpm descent.
Solution - Cannot reproduce problem on ground.

Problem - Evidence of leak on right main landing gear.
Solution - Evidence removed.

Problem - DME volume unbelievably loud.
Solution - Volume set to more believable level.

Problem - Friction locks cause throttle levers to stick.
Solution - That's what they are there for!

Problem - IFF inoperative.
Solution - IFF always inoperative in OFF mode.

Problem - Suspected crack in windscreen.
Solution - Suspect you're right.

Problem - Number 3 engine missing.
Solution - Engine found on right wing after brief search.

Problem - Aircraft handles funny.
Solution - Aircraft warned to "Straighten up, Fly Right, and Be Serious."

Problem - Target radar hums.
Solution - Reprogrammed target radar with words.

Problem - Mouse in cockpit.
Solution - Cat installed.

An earlier version of this list included the
following items not appearing in the example quoted above:
Defect: The autopilot doesn't.
Action: IT DOES NOW.

Defect: Seat cushion in 13F smells rotten.
Action: Fresh seat cushion on order.

Defect: Turn & slip indicator ball stuck in center during turns.
Action: Congratulations. You just made your first coordinated turn!

Defect: Whining sound heard on engine shutdown.
Action: Pilot removed from aircraft.

Defect: Pilot's clock inoperative.
Action: Wound clock.

Defect: Autopilot tends to drop a wing when fuel imbalance reaches 500
pounds.
Action: Flight manual limits maximum fuel imbalance to 300 pounds.

Defect: #2 ADF needle runs wild.
Action: Caught and tamed #2 ADF needle.

Defect: Unfamiliar noise coming from #2 engine.
Action: Engine run for four hours. Noise now familiar.

Defect: Noise coming from #2 engine. Sounds like man with little hammer.
Action: Took little hammer away from man in #2 engine.

Defect: Whining noise coming from #2 engine compartment.
Action: Returned little hammer to man in #2 engine.

Defect: Flight attendant cold at altitude.
Action: Ground checks OK.

Defect: 3 roaches in cabin.
Action: 1 roach killed, 1 wounded, 1 got away.

Defect: Weather radar went ape!
Action: Opened radar, let out ape, cleaned up mess!

tOn Tue, 16 Jul 2013 11:03:26 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 05:50:59 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Saved about $100 on my Kitchen Aid.

The current is Emerson, 1/2 HP.
I would tend to get her a good brand and high horsepower?
Would 3/4 HP be a good idea?
And, is Kitchen Aid a good brand?

EDIT: Googling for the same questions, I found this:
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/g...-disposers.htm


KA, InSinkErator and Whilrpool are all part of the same company now.
Good brands. My last KA was about 25 years old when I replaced it. I
have a batch feed and that has been my preference for many years.

On 07-15-2013 23:55, Danny D. wrote:
She said it's leaking out the bottom, even when not in use
(but when water is in the sink).

When you say water is in the sink, that makes me think the
stopper is in the sink, preventing water from getting into
the unit. That in turn suggests that the ring inside the sink
that the disposer mounts to is no longer completely sealed
to the sink. This allows water to run down the outside of
the unit and drip off the bottom, SEEMING to be coming out
of the bottom.

--
Wes Groleau

There are more Baroque musicians than any other kind.

On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 19:35:58 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

KA, InSinkErator and Whilrpool are all part of the same company now.
Good brands. My last KA was about 25 years old when I replaced it. I
have a batch feed and that has been my preference for many years.

I bought the $100 1/2 HP and the $180 3/4 HP ACE Hardware Model 5000
garbage disposal.

Once there, I asked her a few questions, and, since she uses it a lot,
I installed the much bigger 3/4 HP one, with all new mounting hardware.

I don't know what "brand" it really is though.

I didn't have a camera with me (mine broke), so, here's a picture
of what I bought next to what I replaced, for reference:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7296/9...61754e0a_z.jpg

On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 07:03:02 -0700, Oren wrote:

A leak at the bottom is cause for replacement.

Hi Oren,

I had verified the old Emerson garbage disposal leaked
from the bottom while it was in place.

However, only after I removed it, did I realize it also
leaked from a crack on the side!

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7426/9...08089d74_c.jpg

So, I think the leak *might* have been from this crack,
and not from a seal inside the motor.

PS: I wonder if I can use this unit to turn it into a
bench grinder?

On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 07:03:02 -0700, Oren wrote:

Does she have a dishwasher?

Yes.

there is a "plug" you have to knock out before install

Thanks. I saw that plug, and knocked it out with a screwdriver
and rubber mallet.

Thanks for letting me know, because I had never done this
before - and - that's when I make the dumb mistakes.

One problem I had was the newer 3/4 HP garbage disposal motor
was larger than the older 1/2 HP garbage disposal motor so
the tube to that dishwasher connection needed to be longer.

But I didn't have one with me, and the stores were closed
by the time I realized that it wasn't going to make it with
the hose pushed fully onto the nipples.

So ... I'm embarrassed to say ... I cheated a bit, by moving
the hose halfway on the nipples at each end, because I needed
an extra inch of length.

Lesson learned:
- Buy everything even if all you replace is the motor!

On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 10:28:18 -0700, Oren wrote:

The new disposal will not have a power, iirc.

Thanks Oren,

I *did* buy an extra $14.50 power cord, and, you are
wholly correct (as always when it comes to huckleberries)
that the new garbage disposal comes with almost everything
*but* the cord.

Since there was nothing wrong with the old cord, and, since
I was paying (as a favor to my friend), I saved $15 by
bringing wire nuts with me, which is the only "extra* I
needed for the wires.

In addition, these things come with a three pronged plug
but you can't tell which is the neutral. So, luckily, I had
brought with me a DMM so I could easily tell which was the
neutral. Dunno if it mattered.

One miserable thing was that I couldn't figure out HOW to
remove the old snap ring! In the end, I banged and pulled
and twisted and banged some more - which destroyed the old
caulked water-tight connection.

Luckily, the new garbage disposal unit came with a new
twist-on connector for the sink, so I used the putty I bought
and made it all new again.

Snap quiz:
Q: Can you see the snap ring opening in this picture?
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7442/9...366b4a45_o.gif

Hint: I looked at it, while it was still in place, with a
flashlight, spending fifteen minutes, before banging it
off in sheer frustration. (This was the hardest part of
the entire job - just finding where the snap ring ends
were! And, of course, I ruined the whole setup.)

On Wed, 17 Jul 2013 00:24:50 -0400, Wes Groleau wrote:

This allows water to run down the outside of the unit and
drip off the bottom, SEEMING to be coming out of the bottom.

That might be the case here, as there was this rusty crack
in the side of the old Emerson garbage disposal unit:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3743/9...16632fa4_o.gif

Who knows how or why this crack is there?

However, the fact the washing machine was backing up into the
kitchen sink, tells me that the sink was filling with water
because the drain pipes were clogged solid somewhere deep
under the house.

I suspect the kitchen sink backing up filled the disposal unit
with standing water - which - leaked profusely out this crack?

But I have no proof.

Ok - The dishwasher is fixed, now what about the clogged drain under the house that was causing the backup, are you still there to look for it???

On Thu, 18 Jul 2013 17:31:30 -0700, wrote:

now what about the clogged drain under the house
that was causing the backup

When I replaced the garbage disposal on Tuesday, the water
leaking from that garbage disposal under the cabinet stopped;
but the sink was still backing up with water when the washing
machine ran.

So, I returned yesterday with the 50' and 75' snakes:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7430/9...8f9b9302_o.gif

I am not sure if I solved anything, but I went into the outside
drain about 60 feet (the house is only about 40 feet long) until
I could go no longer (even though the snake is 75 feet long).

Two problems I had we
a) The snake kept kinking up (and it's a brand new 75' cable!)
b) It stopped dead at 60 feet (which must be halfway under the lawn)

So, I gave up (I had hoped to go the entire 75 feet, which might
even make it to the road). I know of no other cleanout but there
must be one under the lawn somewhere (right?).

Anyway, I poured water down the washing machine drain with a
garden hose for twenty minutes, and, nothing backed up.

So, while I have no idea why the snake just stopped dead at
60 feet (it had stopped twice prior, but I was able to get
past whatever stopped it), I "think" whatever was clogged is
no longer clogged (this black ooze like black paint came out).

On Thursday, July 18, 2013 8:30:21 PM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:


no longer clogged (this black ooze like black paint came out).

Doesn't sound like you've done this much. Common sewer muck...

On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 03:55:06 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

I have a friend who just called me asking for help with her
garbage disposal leaking out the bottom.

Lessons learned:
- The snap ring was almost impossible to get out and was,
by far, the hardest part of the entire job. The next hardest
part was putting the new snap ring on without pushing the
chrome drain out of the sink.
- However, removing the old plastic strain relieve took
knowledge of how it worked - but - I didn't have that -
so I ended up destroying that plastic strain relief before
I finally figured out how it comes apart.
- As everyone had said, I "could" have re-used the mounting
apparatus, but, my problems with the snap ring negated that
as I destroyed the caulking unscrewing the 3 set bolts
- The old clamp apparatus had one extra part that the new
clamp didn't have - so I added it (a round steel plate
under the sink with the cardboard gasket in between it
and the underside of the sink). This made putting the
new clamp on harder, because it wasn't designed for this
additional thick steel plate (I guess).
- The new garbage disposal unit was $180 at ACE for 3/4 HP
(a 1/2 HP unit was only $100) and it came with a drain
pipe elbow & mounting hardware (which had 1 fewer part
than the old mounting hardware).
- I bought a pound of plumbers putty for the sink (the smallest
they had); but only used about an ounce.
- I brought wire nuts for the wire replacement and I was glad
I did because I had to cut off the old crimped wire nuts
in order to remove the old power cord from the old motor.
- The new garbage disposal did come *not* come with electrical
cord (and a new cord cost $14.50 plus about a buck fifty in
tax, which is $16, which is about 20% of the cost of the
repair if I used the 1/2 HP motor and about 10% of the cost
of the repair with the 3/4 HP motor.
- I had screwed on a Romex strain relief, but, I spun it
on too tightly (in an attempt to aim the set screws),
and it collapsed. Removing the busted strain relief was
the third hardest part of the job (after taking off and
putting on the snap ring).
- Screwing on a second new Romex strain relief, I made no
attempt to align the set screws, and it worked just fine
with a long-handled thin 1/8" screwdriver.
- You need an ohmmeter because the wires on the electrical
cord aren't marked as to which one is the neutral and
the blades in the male plug are the same size. Either that,
or mark the neutral before you cut it off the old unit.
- Holding up the garbage disposal wasn't as bad as I thought
it would be; but the larger unit pushed against the
horizontal drain pipe - causing a slight bit of strain
on the pipes.
- The new drain elbow was the same size and shape as the
old except the old had a round female threaded end which
screwed directly onto the old garbage disposal unit while
the new elbow fit into an indentation on the new garbage
disposal unit with two bolts. This turned out OK - but at
first confused me since the ends were so different. But,
the long end (unthreaded pipe) fit into the existing drain
pipe just like the old one did, albeit with a bit of
shoving and pushing.
- The larger garbage disposal unit necessitated a longer
hose from the dishwasher and aerator Y connector. Since
I didn't have a longer hose, I was forced to cheat and
put the hose on the nipples only half way. This is my
main regret (that I didn't have a longer hose handy).
- Next time I'm bringing a set of nut drivers because it
was hard to tighten all the hose clamps (there were two
of them on that Y connector and one on the garbage disposal
unit) with a screwdriver in the enclosed space.
- Twisting the disposal unit on with the tool provided
turned out to be surprisingly easy; but securing the
wire ring was the second hardest part of the entire job.
- Without a helper, it's almost impossible to put the wire
ring on without accidentally pushing the drain up out of
the sink. The helper pushes down from above while you push
up from below to secure that dastardly wire ring.
- Cleaning up the putty afterward is surprisingly easy.
(I'm not sure what to do with the 15 ounces I still have,
but, I guess it can come in handy somehow around the house).
- The wood is destroyed on the floor of the cabinet from
how long the water must have been leaking on it; so I
need to figure out what to put there on top to prevent
the floor of the cabinet from collapsing (it's about 2
inches above the kitchen floor and it's just particle
board. Yuck. Crappy stuff if you ask me; but I'm not sure
how to fix it now that it's already ruined.
- It probably didn't help that I was on my back, butt on
the tile floor but my shoulders squished inside the
cabinet, making the entire wet particle board floor of
the cabinet sag from my weight.
- I was glad I wore overalls (all this bending down lifts
the back of my shirt otherwise) and I was very glad I had
kneepads; but, I really need to go on a diet (I swore
many times about that cabinet opening having a post right
in the middle where the two doors open up under the sink).

Overall, except for removing and replacing that snap ring,
and the mistake with the Romex strain relief, it was a
relatively easy job.

On Thu, 18 Jul 2013 18:52:45 -0700, Bob_Villa wrote:

no longer clogged (this black ooze like black paint came out).

Doesn't sound like you've done this much. Common sewer muck...

I haven't done it all that much.

I was surprised I didn't pull out much by way of hair or paper
stuff. Pretty much the snake went in about 20 feet, and hung up;
then another 30 or so feet, and then hung up; and then another
10 or so feet (total was about 60' measured on the ground with
step strides) of my 75 foot snake available.

Pulling out the snake created this black as night puddle, which,
surprisingly, didn't stink all that much (certainly not like
poop would have) - but it stained everything it touched that was
allowed to dry. It was like black paint.

At one point, the snake was stuck solid, and I had to tug and
tug and tug just to get it out. It stretched, and then popped
out, all of a sudden. I guess I had twisted it into a ball
somewhere deep inside.

Anyway, the weird thing is that I never did get all 75 feet
inside the drain pipes. I'm surprised because they are at least
two inches wide - and the snake is only 3/8".

I don't know how to find the cleanout that might be closer to the
street.

On Fri, 19 Jul 2013 02:42:09 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:




I was surprised I didn't pull out much by way of hair or paper
stuff. Pretty much the snake went in about 20 feet, and hung up;
then another 30 or so feet, and then hung up; and then another
10 or so feet (total was about 60' measured on the ground with
step strides) of my 75 foot snake available.

What is the pipe made from? My guess is you hung up at the joints or
at turns.


Pulling out the snake created this black as night puddle, which,
surprisingly, didn't stink all that much (certainly not like
poop would have) - but it stained everything it touched that was
allowed to dry. It was like black paint.

Decomposed sewage.





I don't know how to find the cleanout that might be closer to the
street.

Probably is none. I have a pipe just outside of my house and then
nothing as it goes to the street and to the main sewer line, about
100'

On Thursday, July 18, 2013 9:33:05 PM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:
snip

Do disrespect Danny...but are you a Danielle?

On Friday, July 19, 2013 4:59:36 AM UTC-5, Bob_Villa wrote:
On Thursday, July 18, 2013 9:33:05 PM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:

snip



Do disrespect Danny...but are you a Danielle?

Sorry (if necessary) I did find a reference to a wife!

Oh, that needs the power drain snake from
Harbor Freight. on sale for $249.99 and you
need the cutting end atachments for $18.99.
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..
..
wrote in message ...
Ok - The dishwasher is fixed, now what about
the clogged drain under the house that was
causing the backup, are you still there to look
for it???