Small -- 4x6 +- wooden "eyebrow" or overhang on back porch (S. exposure).

Have to replace old worn cover (what we used to call "tar paper".

Any difference between individual shingles and sheet, in terms of wear?

I assume ease of replacement better with indiv. shingles, but cost of installation higher?

Your wisdom appreciated.

HB

On Tue, 2 Jul 2013 10:17:12 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson
wrote:

Your wisdom appreciated.

Tar paper is the same as 15# and 30# felt (tar paper) paper.

On Tuesday, July 2, 2013 1:17:12 PM UTC-4, Higgs Boson wrote:
Small -- 4x6 +- wooden "eyebrow" or overhang on back porch (S. exposure).
Have to replace old worn cover (what we used to call "tar paper".

Probably what they call "rolled roofing" around here. It is a cheap roofing material, basically a giant rolled-up shingle, a heavy asphalt backer with fine aggregate embedded. Not as durable as shingles, but certainly more durable than 30lb felt.

Any difference between individual shingles and sheet, in terms of wear?

If you're talking rolled roofing, individual shingles are much more durable.

I assume ease of replacement better with indiv. shingles, but cost of installation higher?

Probably.

I would want this eyebrow or whatever the hell it is to have a roof that matches the rest of the house.

On 7/2/13 1:17 PM, Higgs Boson wrote:
Small -- 4x6 +- wooden "eyebrow" or overhang on back porch (S. exposure).

Have to replace old worn cover (what we used to call "tar paper".

Any difference between individual shingles and sheet, in terms of wear?

I assume ease of replacement better with indiv. shingles, but cost of installation higher?

Your wisdom appreciated.

HB


What is the pitch (or slope) of this overhang ??
Shingles are not recommended on flat or nearly flat roofs. (IIRC
minimum of 1:4 pitch). Rainwater can wick up under flat-lying shingles
and cause water damage. Use "roll roofing" instead, not "tar paper or
felt", in a color to go with rest of roof.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GAF-Miner...1#.UdMykevrkfo

On Tuesday, July 2, 2013 1:17:12 PM UTC-4, Higgs Boson wrote:
Small -- 4x6 +- wooden "eyebrow" or overhang on back porch (S. exposure).



Have to replace old worn cover (what we used to call "tar paper".



Any difference between individual shingles and sheet, in terms of wear?



Shingles and sheet of what? Hard to believe that the roof just
has tar paper on it now. What's on the rest of the house? You
would think the porch would have the same roofing, unless the
porch roof is too low pitch and has rolled roofing, ie hot tar
type which is usually used on flat roofs. What is the pitch?



I assume ease of replacement better with indiv. shingles, but cost of installation higher?



I doubt there is much difference in the cost of doing a porch
roof either way. But if it has enough pitch for shingles to be
used, then rolled roofing is going to look like hell.






Your wisdom appreciated.



HB

On Tuesday, July 2, 2013 12:17:12 PM UTC-5, Higgs Boson wrote:
Small -- 4x6 +- wooden "eyebrow" or overhang on back porch (S. exposure). Have to replace old worn cover (what we used to call "tar paper". Any difference between individual shingles and sheet, in terms of wear? I assume ease of replacement better with indiv. shingles, but cost of installation higher? Your wisdom appreciated. HB

Roll roofing over an adhesive vapor barrier like used along drip edges.

Higgs Boson wrote:
Small -- 4x6 +- wooden "eyebrow" or overhang on back porch (S.
exposure).

Have to replace old worn cover (what we used to call "tar paper".

Any difference between individual shingles and sheet, in terms of
wear?

I assume ease of replacement better with indiv. shingles, but cost of
installation higher?

Your wisdom appreciated.

Any chance that you could upload a photo (through http://tinypic.com or
another similar site)?

I think that would make it a lot easier for people to see what you need and
what would work best.

On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 7:23:15 AM UTC-7, TomR wrote:
Higgs Boson wrote:

Small -- 4x6 +- wooden "eyebrow" or overhang on back porch (S.

exposure).



Have to replace old worn cover (what we used to call "tar paper".



Any difference between individual shingles and sheet, in terms of

wear?



I assume ease of replacement better with indiv. shingles, but cost of

installation higher?



Your wisdom appreciated.



Any chance that you could upload a photo (through http://tinypic.com or

another similar site)?



I think that would make it a lot easier for people to see what you need and

what would work best.

OK, here is pic to show angle of "eyebrow" roof on back porch.

http://tinypic.com/r/35ko77d/5

Hope this will help recommend shingles vs ??

Also: must shingles be underlaid with ? specific name of product?

Much TIA

HB

On Tuesday, July 2, 2013 10:17:12 AM UTC-7, Higgs Boson wrote:
Small -- 4x6 +- wooden "eyebrow" or overhang on back porch (S. exposure).



Have to replace old worn cover (what we used to call "tar paper".



Any difference between individual shingles and sheet, in terms of wear?



I assume ease of replacement better with indiv. shingles, but cost of installation higher?



Your wisdom appreciated.



HB

OK, here is pic showing angle of "eyebrow" overhang on back porch.

http://tinypic.com/r/35ko77d/5

This was about whether to use shingles or sheet. Recommendation so far was for shingles. Need to put something underneath? Name of product?

Big TIA

HB

On Thursday, July 11, 2013 4:43:04 AM UTC-4, Higgs Boson wrote:
On Tuesday, July 2, 2013 10:17:12 AM UTC-7, Higgs Boson wrote:

Small -- 4x6 +- wooden "eyebrow" or overhang on back porch (S. exposure).







Have to replace old worn cover (what we used to call "tar paper".







Any difference between individual shingles and sheet, in terms of wear?







I assume ease of replacement better with indiv. shingles, but cost of installation higher?







Your wisdom appreciated.







HB



OK, here is pic showing angle of "eyebrow" overhang on back porch.



http://tinypic.com/r/35ko77d/5



This was about whether to use shingles or sheet. Recommendation so far was for shingles. Need to put something underneath? Name of product?



Big TIA



HB

Pitch is OK for shingles. What the pic doesn't show is what's on
the rest of the roof? Why doesn't that section have the same shingles
or roof as the rest of the house? That would be normal.

As far as shingles, the application is as follows:

15# or 30# felt

if you're in an area subject to snow, freezing weather, code
usually requires water barrier material from the eaves up to
2ft past the heated wall for that section instead of felt

drip edge along eaves and rakes

flashing where the roof meets the house

shingles

Higgs Boson wrote:
On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 7:23:15 AM UTC-7, TomR wrote:
Higgs Boson wrote:
Small -- 4x6 +- wooden "eyebrow" or overhang on back porch (S.
exposure).
Have to replace old worn cover (what we used to call "tar paper".
Any difference between individual shingles and sheet, in terms of
wear?

Any chance that you could upload a photo . . .? . . ,
I think that would make it a lot easier for people to see what you
need and what would work best.

OK, here is pic to show angle of "eyebrow" roof on back porch.

http://tinypic.com/r/35ko77d/5

Thanks for the photo. I was surprised because when I read "eyebrow" in your
original post I was thinking of the curved type of eyebrow roof structure.
If you go to Google Images at http://www.images.google.com and do a search
for --- eyebrow roof --- you'll see what I mean.

So, what you have is an overhang over a porch with a flat pitched roof. And
the pitch is enough that you have a choice of using individual shingles or
roll roofing or other options.

It would probably help if you posted a photo of the existing roof so people
could see what is there now, how it connects to the house, etc. And, if the
photo (or another photo) could show another part of the roof for the rest of
the house, people could get an idea of whether to try to match that style
etc. With a better photo or two of the actual roof, people here could also
let you know if you need drip edge etc. I know a little about that, but not
as much as others here.

Are you thinking of doing this yourself or having someone else do it? That
could make a difference also in terms or which roofing materials you may
want to use.

On Thu, 11 Jul 2013 01:43:04 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson
wrote:

On Tuesday, July 2, 2013 10:17:12 AM UTC-7, Higgs Boson wrote:
Small -- 4x6 +- wooden "eyebrow" or overhang on back porch (S. exposure).



Have to replace old worn cover (what we used to call "tar paper".



Any difference between individual shingles and sheet, in terms of wear?



I assume ease of replacement better with indiv. shingles, but cost of installation higher?



Your wisdom appreciated.



HB

OK, here is pic showing angle of "eyebrow" overhang on back porch.

http://tinypic.com/r/35ko77d/5

This was about whether to use shingles or sheet. Recommendation so far was for shingles. Need to put something underneath? Name of product?

Big TIA

HB
I'd shingle it, and I'd put roofing felt under the shingles. Roofing
felt is what is usually called "tar paper"
Heavy "tar paper" with a stone finish is called "roll roofing" which
would be your other option. With the pitch and size you have there, a
bundle of shingles should just about do the job Roll roofing doesn't
make as good a job without a lot of extra work/care.

On Thursday, July 11, 2013 4:11:03 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Thursday, July 11, 2013 4:43:04 AM UTC-4, Higgs Boson wrote:

On Tuesday, July 2, 2013 10:17:12 AM UTC-7, Higgs Boson wrote:



Small -- 4x6 +- wooden "eyebrow" or overhang on back porch (S. exposure).















Have to replace old worn cover (what we used to call "tar paper".















Any difference between individual shingles and sheet, in terms of wear?















I assume ease of replacement better with indiv. shingles, but cost of installation higher?















Your wisdom appreciated.















HB







OK, here is pic showing angle of "eyebrow" overhang on back porch.







http://tinypic.com/r/35ko77d/5







This was about whether to use shingles or sheet. Recommendation so far was for shingles. Need to put something underneath? Name of product?







Big TIA







HB



Pitch is OK for shingles. What the pic doesn't show is what's on

the rest of the roof? Why doesn't that section have the same shingles

or roof as the rest of the house? That would be normal.



As far as shingles, the application is as follows:



15# or 30# felt



if you're in an area subject to snow, freezing weather, code

usually requires water barrier material from the eaves up to

2ft past the heated wall for that section instead of felt



drip edge along eaves and rakes



flashing where the roof meets the house



shingles

Here's pic showing how overhang attaches to back of house. No prob. with (what little) rain we get; it just runs off. Note that rain vent from (flat) roof does not discharge onto overhang.

http://tinypic.com/r/xde9mp/5

Thanks for cold weather info, but not applicable here; this is So.Calif coastal.

Also, there's not a question of aesthetics -- matching the overhang to roof. Roof is flat tar paper (except in front; peak w/Spanish tiles).

Is this enough info to decide whether felt and shingles or felt and roll?
ISTR that shingles was preferred, though more expensive (?)

I'm not doing the work myself. Looking for skilled handyman. If not found, will have to bite the bullet and hope to catch a roofer between big jobs.

Thanks to all for input.

HB

On Friday, July 12, 2013 12:01:13 AM UTC-4, Higgs Boson wrote:
On Thursday, July 11, 2013 4:11:03 AM UTC-7, wrote:

On Thursday, July 11, 2013 4:43:04 AM UTC-4, Higgs Boson wrote:



On Tuesday, July 2, 2013 10:17:12 AM UTC-7, Higgs Boson wrote:







Small -- 4x6 +- wooden "eyebrow" or overhang on back porch (S. exposure).































Have to replace old worn cover (what we used to call "tar paper".































Any difference between individual shingles and sheet, in terms of wear?































I assume ease of replacement better with indiv. shingles, but cost of installation higher?































Your wisdom appreciated.































HB















OK, here is pic showing angle of "eyebrow" overhang on back porch.















http://tinypic.com/r/35ko77d/5















This was about whether to use shingles or sheet. Recommendation so far was for shingles. Need to put something underneath? Name of product?















Big TIA















HB







Pitch is OK for shingles. What the pic doesn't show is what's on



the rest of the roof? Why doesn't that section have the same shingles



or roof as the rest of the house? That would be normal.







As far as shingles, the application is as follows:







15# or 30# felt







if you're in an area subject to snow, freezing weather, code



usually requires water barrier material from the eaves up to



2ft past the heated wall for that section instead of felt







drip edge along eaves and rakes







flashing where the roof meets the house







shingles



Here's pic showing how overhang attaches to back of house. No prob. with (what little) rain we get; it just runs off. Note that rain vent from (flat) roof does not discharge onto overhang.



http://tinypic.com/r/xde9mp/5



Thanks for cold weather info, but not applicable here; this is So.Calif coastal.



Also, there's not a question of aesthetics -- matching the overhang to roof. Roof is flat tar paper (except in front; peak w/Spanish tiles).



Is this enough info to decide whether felt and shingles or felt and roll?

ISTR that shingles was preferred, though more expensive (?)



I'm not doing the work myself. Looking for skilled handyman. If not found, will have to bite the bullet and hope to catch a roofer between big jobs.



Thanks to all for input.



HB

From the pic, I still can't see how it matches the rest of the
roofing, building, etc. And what you keep calling "tar paper"
is most likely rolled roofing, which is what is used on many flat
or very low pitch roofs.

So, up to you what to use. Normally, I wouldn't use a handyman
for any roofing project. One mistake and you have leaks. But if
you do, the critical area is where the roof meets the building,
which needs to be flashed correctly. And if you go with a handyman,
shingles are going to be the likely choice, I don't think many
handymen are going to do rolled roofing.

Either will work. It's up to you to decide if shingles will look
better and then there are the color choices, 3 tab or architectural,
etc. You can see what they look like at HD, Lowes, building supply
houses, neighbors houses, etc.

Higgs Boson wrote:
On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 7:23:15 AM UTC-7, TomR wrote:
Higgs Boson wrote:

Small -- 4x6 +- wooden . . . overhang on back porch. . . ,
Have to replace old worn cover (what we used to call "tar paper").

Any difference between individual shingles and sheet, in terms of
wear?

Any chance that you could upload a photo . . ?
(through http://tinypic.com

OK, here is pic to show angle of "eyebrow" roof on back porch.

http://tinypic.com/r/35ko77d/5

Hope this will help recommend shingles vs ??

Also: must shingles be underlaid with ? specific name of product?

The photo definitely helps, along with the part that you later wrote about
not being too concerned about aesthetics since there is no other visible
roof to match etc.

To me, it looks like a very simple job for any roofer or any handyman with a
little knowledge of roofing.

If it were me, I would probably skip the idea of using shingles and just use
roll roofing. Roll roofing is cheap and you don't need much.

You use the term "tar paper", but it's definitely not "tar paper". If you
go to Home Depot or Lowes etc. and look at "roll roofing", you'll see what
roll roofing is. In the same section, they will have "tar paper" -- but it
will be called roof underlayment or roof felt -- and that is not what you
now have for a roof.

One reason why I would skip the shingles is that they need to be nailed in
place. But, it looks like you have a plywood roof deck and I think the
nails would come through the plywood and would show underneath.

Instead, I would get roll roofing such as this (which comes in white or
"summer sage" color):
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cata...rolled+roofing .

And, after removing the old roofing material, I would basically just "glue
down" the new roll roofing using something like this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-4...5-GA/100317802 .


You will also need a piece of drip edge to replace the drip edge that you
already have. And, I guess roof cement where the roof meets the building.

If you do this approach, you do not need any underlayment -- just attach the
roll roofing to the plywood deck with the roof adhesive.

One trick that I like to do sometimes when I have a small job like this is
to keep an eye out in my neighborhood to see if I see a contractor doing a
similar type of job near me. Then I ask them about doing mine -- "since
they are already there". Sometimes they just send their worker(s) over to
do my job since they are already in the area. I just did this a few days
ago where I needed two trees cut down -- I just snagged a tree company that
had all their equipment and manpower nearby on a big job and they came over
and did my 2-tree cutdown and removal in literally 35 minutes.

On Friday, July 12, 2013 12:57:30 PM UTC-4, TomR wrote:
Higgs Boson wrote:

On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 7:23:15 AM UTC-7, TomR wrote:

Higgs Boson wrote:



Small -- 4x6 +- wooden . . . overhang on back porch. . . ,

Have to replace old worn cover (what we used to call "tar paper").



Any difference between individual shingles and sheet, in terms of

wear?



Any chance that you could upload a photo . . ?

(through http://tinypic.com



OK, here is pic to show angle of "eyebrow" roof on back porch.



http://tinypic.com/r/35ko77d/5



Hope this will help recommend shingles vs ??



Also: must shingles be underlaid with ? specific name of product?



The photo definitely helps, along with the part that you later wrote about

not being too concerned about aesthetics since there is no other visible

roof to match etc.



To me, it looks like a very simple job for any roofer or any handyman with a

little knowledge of roofing.



If it were me, I would probably skip the idea of using shingles and just use

roll roofing. Roll roofing is cheap and you don't need much.




You use the term "tar paper", but it's definitely not "tar paper". If you

go to Home Depot or Lowes etc. and look at "roll roofing", you'll see what

roll roofing is. In the same section, they will have "tar paper" -- but it

will be called roof underlayment or roof felt -- and that is not what you

now have for a roof.



One reason why I would skip the shingles is that they need to be nailed in

place. But, it looks like you have a plywood roof deck and I think the

nails would come through the plywood and would show underneath.


Good point. I didn't realize it's just exposed plywood underneath.
The nails would come through, so I agree shingles are out.






Instead, I would get roll roofing such as this (which comes in white or

"summer sage" color):

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cata...rolled+roofing .



And, after removing the old roofing material, I would basically just "glue

down" the new roll roofing using something like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-4...5-GA/100317802 .





You will also need a piece of drip edge to replace the drip edge that you

already have. And, I guess roof cement where the roof meets the building.


That needs to be flashed.

wrote:
On Friday, July 12, 2013 12:57:30 PM UTC-4, TomR wrote:
. . . ,
You will also need a piece of drip edge to replace the drip edge
that you
already have. And, I guess roof cement where the roof meets the
building.

That needs to be flashed.

Yes, you're right. I'm not exactly sure how they do that.

It looks like he may have a stucco finish on the back wall. If so, and if
good flashing is already there going under the stucco, then maybe the new
roof can go under the existing flashing (by lifting it a little?) and then
use roof cement -- I don't know; I'm just guessing.

Or, maybe channel out some of the existing stucco along the roof line (with
an angle grinder), try to run the new flashing under that and over the new
roof, and then roof cement? -- again, just guessing.

On Friday, July 12, 2013 3:38:19 PM UTC-4, TomR wrote:
wrote:

On Friday, July 12, 2013 12:57:30 PM UTC-4, TomR wrote:

. . . ,

You will also need a piece of drip edge to replace the drip edge

that you

already have. And, I guess roof cement where the roof meets the

building.



That needs to be flashed.



Yes, you're right. I'm not exactly sure how they do that.



It looks like he may have a stucco finish on the back wall. If so, and if

good flashing is already there going under the stucco, then maybe the new

roof can go under the existing flashing (by lifting it a little?) and then

use roof cement -- I don't know; I'm just guessing.



Or, maybe channel out some of the existing stucco along the roof line (with

an angle grinder), try to run the new flashing under that and over the new

roof, and then roof cement? -- again, just guessing.

That's the general idea. I haven't done flashing with stucco or roll
roofing, so can't help there. But it's a prime candidate for a screw up
if you have a "handyman" doing a roofing job. On the other hand, might be
hard to find a roofer that wants to do a small job like that.

On Friday, July 12, 2013 12:42:37 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Friday, July 12, 2013 3:38:19 PM UTC-4, TomR wrote:

wrote:



On Friday, July 12, 2013 12:57:30 PM UTC-4, TomR wrote:



. . . ,



You will also need a piece of drip edge to replace the drip edge



that you



already have. And, I guess roof cement where the roof meets the



building.







That needs to be flashed.







Yes, you're right. I'm not exactly sure how they do that.







It looks like he may have a stucco finish on the back wall. If so, and if



good flashing is already there going under the stucco, then maybe the new



roof can go under the existing flashing (by lifting it a little?) and then



use roof cement -- I don't know; I'm just guessing.







Or, maybe channel out some of the existing stucco along the roof line (with



an angle grinder), try to run the new flashing under that and over the new



roof, and then roof cement? -- again, just guessing.



That's the general idea. I haven't done flashing with stucco or roll

roofing, so can't help there. But it's a prime candidate for a screw up

if you have a "handyman" doing a roofing job. On the other hand, might be

hard to find a roofer that wants to do a small job like that.
Don't need felt; don't use nails; make sure new flashing is waterproof;

Guys, you're in my Will (all $4.50 worth g) for catching angles that wouldn't have occurred to me! Let's hear it for AHR!

So I'll get rolled roofing (no more outmoded terms like "tar paper") and find a roofer that can squeeze me in.

Huge thanks.

HB

On Fri, 12 Jul 2013 12:42:37 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

Or, maybe channel out some of the existing stucco along the roof line (with

an angle grinder), try to run the new flashing under that and over the new

roof, and then roof cement? -- again, just guessing.

That's the general idea. I haven't done flashing with stucco or roll
roofing, so can't help there. But it's a prime candidate for a screw up
if you have a "handyman" doing a roofing job. On the other hand, might be
hard to find a roofer that wants to do a small job like that.

I would avoid cutting stucco in this case. IIRC the flashing on my
patio roof was attached to the ledger board (stucco cut out for the
ledger) for the patio roof and sealed. The roof line overhangs this
flashing. I cannot see what the OP had or how it was flashed.

If the stucco WAS to be cut, the top of the flashing could be tucked
under the stucco and sealed.

Two cents.

On Saturday, July 13, 2013 8:11:01 AM UTC-7, woodchucker wrote:
On 7/12/2013 2:55 PM, wrote:

On Friday, July 12, 2013 12:57:30 PM UTC-4, TomR wrote:

Higgs Boson wrote:



On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 7:23:15 AM UTC-7, TomR wrote:



Higgs Boson wrote:







Small -- 4x6 +- wooden . . . overhang on back porch. . . ,



Have to replace old worn cover (what we used to call "tar paper").







Any difference between individual shingles and sheet, in terms of



wear?







Any chance that you could upload a photo . . ?



(through http://tinypic.com







OK, here is pic to show angle of "eyebrow" roof on back porch.







http://tinypic.com/r/35ko77d/5







Hope this will help recommend shingles vs ??







Also: must shingles be underlaid with ? specific name of product?







The photo definitely helps, along with the part that you later wrote about



not being too concerned about aesthetics since there is no other visible



roof to match etc.







To me, it looks like a very simple job for any roofer or any handyman with a



little knowledge of roofing.







If it were me, I would probably skip the idea of using shingles and just use



roll roofing. Roll roofing is cheap and you don't need much.









You use the term "tar paper", but it's definitely not "tar paper". If you



go to Home Depot or Lowes etc. and look at "roll roofing", you'll see what



roll roofing is. In the same section, they will have "tar paper" -- but it



will be called roof underlayment or roof felt -- and that is not what you



now have for a roof.







One reason why I would skip the shingles is that they need to be nailed in



place. But, it looks like you have a plywood roof deck and I think the



nails would come through the plywood and would show underneath.





Good point. I didn't realize it's just exposed plywood underneath.

The nails would come through, so I agree shingles are out.













Instead, I would get roll roofing such as this (which comes in white or



"summer sage" color):



http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cata...rolled+roofing .







And, after removing the old roofing material, I would basically just "glue



down" the new roll roofing using something like this:



http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-4...5-GA/100317802 .











You will also need a piece of drip edge to replace the drip edge that you



already have. And, I guess roof cement where the roof meets the building.





That needs to be flashed.











You want tar paper not underlayment which is felt. Tar paper for unaided

roofing is much sturdier and resists water, the underlayment is a for

breathing (vapor barrier and allows it to dry out and breathe).



I would just nail shingles, you said it's not aesthetic... just go for it.

--

Jeff\

I am getting more confused by the minute.

Somebody else said avoid shingles because it looked like roof was plywood and nails might go through. So I was all set to use roll roofing -- which I was told didn't need underlayment.

???!!!!

HB

On Saturday, July 13, 2013 6:01:11 PM UTC-4, Higgs Boson wrote:
On Saturday, July 13, 2013 8:11:01 AM UTC-7, woodchucker wrote:

On 7/12/2013 2:55 PM, wrote:



On Friday, July 12, 2013 12:57:30 PM UTC-4, TomR wrote:



Higgs Boson wrote:







On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 7:23:15 AM UTC-7, TomR wrote:







Higgs Boson wrote:















Small -- 4x6 +- wooden . . . overhang on back porch. . . ,







Have to replace old worn cover (what we used to call "tar paper").















Any difference between individual shingles and sheet, in terms of







wear?















Any chance that you could upload a photo . . ?







(through http://tinypic.com















OK, here is pic to show angle of "eyebrow" roof on back porch.















http://tinypic.com/r/35ko77d/5















Hope this will help recommend shingles vs ??















Also: must shingles be underlaid with ? specific name of product?















The photo definitely helps, along with the part that you later wrote about







not being too concerned about aesthetics since there is no other visible







roof to match etc.















To me, it looks like a very simple job for any roofer or any handyman with a







little knowledge of roofing.















If it were me, I would probably skip the idea of using shingles and just use







roll roofing. Roll roofing is cheap and you don't need much.



















You use the term "tar paper", but it's definitely not "tar paper". If you







go to Home Depot or Lowes etc. and look at "roll roofing", you'll see what







roll roofing is. In the same section, they will have "tar paper" -- but it







will be called roof underlayment or roof felt -- and that is not what you







now have for a roof.















One reason why I would skip the shingles is that they need to be nailed in







place. But, it looks like you have a plywood roof deck and I think the







nails would come through the plywood and would show underneath.











Good point. I didn't realize it's just exposed plywood underneath.



The nails would come through, so I agree shingles are out.



























Instead, I would get roll roofing such as this (which comes in white or







"summer sage" color):







http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cata...rolled+roofing .















And, after removing the old roofing material, I would basically just "glue







down" the new roll roofing using something like this:







http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-4...5-GA/100317802 .























You will also need a piece of drip edge to replace the drip edge that you







already have. And, I guess roof cement where the roof meets the building.











That needs to be flashed.























You want tar paper not underlayment which is felt. Tar paper for unaided



roofing is much sturdier and resists water, the underlayment is a for



breathing (vapor barrier and allows it to dry out and breathe).







I would just nail shingles, you said it's not aesthetic... just go for it.



--



Jeff\



I am getting more confused by the minute.



Somebody else said avoid shingles because it looked like roof was plywood and nails might go through. So I was all set to use roll roofing -- which I was told didn't need underlayment.



???!!!!



HB

I think it was TomR that pointed out that all you have there is
a plywood roof deck where you can see the bottom of it and if you
shingle it, the nails will show. He's right. Shingle nails need
to be long enough to go through the sheathing in order to hold.
Folks still suggesting shingles probably didn't see the pic that
shows the bottom of the roof deck is the ceiling of the overhang.
Roll roofing is what you want.

On Sat, 13 Jul 2013 15:01:11 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson
wrote:

On Saturday, July 13, 2013 8:11:01 AM UTC-7, woodchucker wrote:
On 7/12/2013 2:55 PM, wrote:

On Friday, July 12, 2013 12:57:30 PM UTC-4, TomR wrote:

Higgs Boson wrote:



On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 7:23:15 AM UTC-7, TomR wrote:



Higgs Boson wrote:







Small -- 4x6 +- wooden . . . overhang on back porch. . . ,



Have to replace old worn cover (what we used to call "tar paper").







Any difference between individual shingles and sheet, in terms of



wear?







Any chance that you could upload a photo . . ?



(through http://tinypic.com







OK, here is pic to show angle of "eyebrow" roof on back porch.







http://tinypic.com/r/35ko77d/5







Hope this will help recommend shingles vs ??







Also: must shingles be underlaid with ? specific name of product?







The photo definitely helps, along with the part that you later wrote about



not being too concerned about aesthetics since there is no other visible



roof to match etc.







To me, it looks like a very simple job for any roofer or any handyman with a



little knowledge of roofing.







If it were me, I would probably skip the idea of using shingles and just use



roll roofing. Roll roofing is cheap and you don't need much.









You use the term "tar paper", but it's definitely not "tar paper". If you



go to Home Depot or Lowes etc. and look at "roll roofing", you'll see what



roll roofing is. In the same section, they will have "tar paper" -- but it



will be called roof underlayment or roof felt -- and that is not what you



now have for a roof.







One reason why I would skip the shingles is that they need to be nailed in



place. But, it looks like you have a plywood roof deck and I think the



nails would come through the plywood and would show underneath.





Good point. I didn't realize it's just exposed plywood underneath.

The nails would come through, so I agree shingles are out.













Instead, I would get roll roofing such as this (which comes in white or



"summer sage" color):



http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cata...rolled+roofing .







And, after removing the old roofing material, I would basically just "glue



down" the new roll roofing using something like this:



http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-4...5-GA/100317802 .











You will also need a piece of drip edge to replace the drip edge that you



already have. And, I guess roof cement where the roof meets the building.





That needs to be flashed.











You want tar paper not underlayment which is felt. Tar paper for unaided

roofing is much sturdier and resists water, the underlayment is a for

breathing (vapor barrier and allows it to dry out and breathe).



I would just nail shingles, you said it's not aesthetic... just go for it.

--

Jeff\

I am getting more confused by the minute.

Somebody else said avoid shingles because it looked like roof was plywood and nails might go through. So I was all set to use roll roofing -- which I was told didn't need underlayment.

???!!!!

HB
If you are doing it yourself and buying the material, 3 tab asphault
shngles come about 33 sq ft to a bundle. One bundle will likely do
your job. Roll roofing comes by the roll - usually 99 sq ft to a roll
(1 square) - 36 inches by 33 feet. This means buying a LOT of extra -
which is just wastefull.

If your contractor has some roll ends around it might make sense.

For shingles, yes the nails will come through the plywood - but it is
done every day. If you absolutely cannot stand the nails showing, add
another layer of plywood, nailed only at the rafters, and nail the
shingles with short roofing nails - 1 inch - not 1 1/4"

On Sat, 13 Jul 2013 20:36:37 -0400, wrote:




For shingles, yes the nails will come through the plywood - but it is
done every day. If you absolutely cannot stand the nails showing, add
another layer of plywood, nailed only at the rafters, and nail the
shingles with short roofing nails - 1 inch - not 1 1/4"


Unless the deck is thicker than 3/4", the nails are supposed to
protrude. Looks like crap on a soffit though.

On Sat, 13 Jul 2013 22:55:09 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Sat, 13 Jul 2013 20:36:37 -0400, wrote:




For shingles, yes the nails will come through the plywood - but it is
done every day. If you absolutely cannot stand the nails showing, add
another layer of plywood, nailed only at the rafters, and nail the
shingles with short roofing nails - 1 inch - not 1 1/4"


Unless the deck is thicker than 3/4", the nails are supposed to
protrude. Looks like crap on a soffit though.
Which is why I said add a second layer. Not likely to be less than
3/8" to start with. Add another 3/8 or 1/2" and 1 inch nails either
just peek through or do not protrude..

wrote:
On Sat, 13 Jul 2013 22:55:09 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Sat, 13 Jul 2013 20:36:37 -0400, wrote:




For shingles, yes the nails will come through the plywood - but it is
done every day. If you absolutely cannot stand the nails showing, add
another layer of plywood, nailed only at the rafters, and nail the
shingles with short roofing nails - 1 inch - not 1 1/4"


Unless the deck is thicker than 3/4", the nails are supposed to
protrude. Looks like crap on a soffit though.
Which is why I said add a second layer. Not likely to be less than
3/8" to start with. Add another 3/8 or 1/2" and 1 inch nails either
just peek through or do not protrude..

Of course, we don't know what adding a second layer will do the junction of
the overhang and the house. At a minimum, it will probably need to be
flashed, at worse it will not work with the the house siding. Hard to say
without a picture of the top surface and the wall.