On Sat, 13 Jul 2013 15:01:11 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson
wrote:

On Saturday, July 13, 2013 8:11:01 AM UTC-7, woodchucker wrote:
On 7/12/2013 2:55 PM, wrote:

On Friday, July 12, 2013 12:57:30 PM UTC-4, TomR wrote:

Higgs Boson wrote:



On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 7:23:15 AM UTC-7, TomR wrote:



Higgs Boson wrote:







Small -- 4x6 +- wooden . . . overhang on back porch. . . ,



Have to replace old worn cover (what we used to call "tar paper").







Any difference between individual shingles and sheet, in terms of



wear?







Any chance that you could upload a photo . . ?



(through http://tinypic.com







OK, here is pic to show angle of "eyebrow" roof on back porch.







http://tinypic.com/r/35ko77d/5







Hope this will help recommend shingles vs ??







Also: must shingles be underlaid with ? specific name of product?







The photo definitely helps, along with the part that you later wrote about



not being too concerned about aesthetics since there is no other visible



roof to match etc.







To me, it looks like a very simple job for any roofer or any handyman with a



little knowledge of roofing.







If it were me, I would probably skip the idea of using shingles and just use



roll roofing. Roll roofing is cheap and you don't need much.









You use the term "tar paper", but it's definitely not "tar paper". If you



go to Home Depot or Lowes etc. and look at "roll roofing", you'll see what



roll roofing is. In the same section, they will have "tar paper" -- but it



will be called roof underlayment or roof felt -- and that is not what you



now have for a roof.







One reason why I would skip the shingles is that they need to be nailed in



place. But, it looks like you have a plywood roof deck and I think the



nails would come through the plywood and would show underneath.





Good point. I didn't realize it's just exposed plywood underneath.

The nails would come through, so I agree shingles are out.













Instead, I would get roll roofing such as this (which comes in white or



"summer sage" color):



http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cata...rolled+roofing .







And, after removing the old roofing material, I would basically just "glue



down" the new roll roofing using something like this:



http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-4...5-GA/100317802 .











You will also need a piece of drip edge to replace the drip edge that you



already have. And, I guess roof cement where the roof meets the building.





That needs to be flashed.











You want tar paper not underlayment which is felt. Tar paper for unaided

roofing is much sturdier and resists water, the underlayment is a for

breathing (vapor barrier and allows it to dry out and breathe).



I would just nail shingles, you said it's not aesthetic... just go for it.

--

Jeff\

I am getting more confused by the minute.

Somebody else said avoid shingles because it looked like roof was plywood and nails might go through. So I was all set to use roll roofing -- which I was told didn't need underlayment.

???!!!!

HB
If you are doing it yourself and buying the material, 3 tab asphault
shngles come about 33 sq ft to a bundle. One bundle will likely do
your job. Roll roofing comes by the roll - usually 99 sq ft to a roll
(1 square) - 36 inches by 33 feet. This means buying a LOT of extra -
which is just wastefull.

If your contractor has some roll ends around it might make sense.

For shingles, yes the nails will come through the plywood - but it is
done every day. If you absolutely cannot stand the nails showing, add
another layer of plywood, nailed only at the rafters, and nail the
shingles with short roofing nails - 1 inch - not 1 1/4"