On Wed, 28 Sep 2016 23:46:16 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Irreversible butt splice is usually a large copper butt splice that needs a special tool

I did not see the start of this thread, but if you're trying to connect
a bare copper wire that's probably a solid #6 or #8 gauge wire, just buy
an appropriate sized SPLIT BOLT from an electrical supply store or
larger hardware store. Slip the wire ends into it, and tighten the bolt
on it. Real simple. I would not suggest doing this underground though.

On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 02:51:49 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 28 Sep 2016 23:46:16 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Irreversible butt splice is usually a large copper butt splice that needs a special tool

I did not see the start of this thread, but if you're trying to connect
a bare copper wire that's probably a solid #6 or #8 gauge wire, just buy
an appropriate sized SPLIT BOLT from an electrical supply store or
larger hardware store. Slip the wire ends into it, and tighten the bolt
on it. Real simple. I would not suggest doing this underground though.


Not on a grounding electrode conductor. They must be unspliced with
the 2 exceptions the OP cited. They do sell a one shot exothermic
splice but it is not cheap. Otherwise you need the big crimper or a
set of Cadweld dies. For most people it is easier to run a new wire
the whole way

On 9/29/2016 8:16 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 02:51:49 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 28 Sep 2016 23:46:16 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Irreversible butt splice is usually a large copper butt splice that needs a special tool

I did not see the start of this thread, but if you're trying to connect
a bare copper wire that's probably a solid #6 or #8 gauge wire, just buy
an appropriate sized SPLIT BOLT from an electrical supply store or
larger hardware store. Slip the wire ends into it, and tighten the bolt
on it. Real simple. I would not suggest doing this underground though.


Not on a grounding electrode conductor. They must be unspliced with
the 2 exceptions the OP cited. They do sell a one shot exothermic
splice but it is not cheap. Otherwise you need the big crimper or a
set of Cadweld dies. For most people it is easier to run a new wire
the whole way

I replaced the water main with plastic and needed a new ground for the
electrical system.
I didn't feel comfortable trying to snake a bare wire down past
the service entrance into the box.
I went to the inspector's office and asked about the no-splice
requirement. He said, "no problem, splice onto the existing wire."
Passed inspection without a hitch.
YMMV.

On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 11:36:48 -0700, mike wrote:

On 9/29/2016 8:16 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 02:51:49 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 28 Sep 2016 23:46:16 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Irreversible butt splice is usually a large copper butt splice that needs a special tool

I did not see the start of this thread, but if you're trying to connect
a bare copper wire that's probably a solid #6 or #8 gauge wire, just buy
an appropriate sized SPLIT BOLT from an electrical supply store or
larger hardware store. Slip the wire ends into it, and tighten the bolt
on it. Real simple. I would not suggest doing this underground though.


Not on a grounding electrode conductor. They must be unspliced with
the 2 exceptions the OP cited. They do sell a one shot exothermic
splice but it is not cheap. Otherwise you need the big crimper or a
set of Cadweld dies. For most people it is easier to run a new wire
the whole way

I replaced the water main with plastic and needed a new ground for the
electrical system.
I didn't feel comfortable trying to snake a bare wire down past
the service entrance into the box.
I went to the inspector's office and asked about the no-splice
requirement. He said, "no problem, splice onto the existing wire."
Passed inspection without a hitch.
YMMV.

I suppose there are inspectors who do not care about the code.
There is a loophole (90.4) that keeps them from being liable ...
unless someone is injured. Then there will be no problem finding a
lawyer who will allege gross negligence that pierces sovereign
immunity and loopholes in the code.

On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 11:36:48 -0700, mike wrote:


Not on a grounding electrode conductor. They must be unspliced with
the 2 exceptions the OP cited. They do sell a one shot exothermic
splice but it is not cheap. Otherwise you need the big crimper or a
set of Cadweld dies. For most people it is easier to run a new wire
the whole way

I replaced the water main with plastic and needed a new ground for the
electrical system.
I didn't feel comfortable trying to snake a bare wire down past
the service entrance into the box.
I went to the inspector's office and asked about the no-splice
requirement. He said, "no problem, splice onto the existing wire."
Passed inspection without a hitch.
YMMV.

Either that code did not exist around 12 years ago, or there are
exceptions. Around 12 years ago, I worked for a friend who moved and set
prefab homes on their foundations. They came from the factory with all
the wiring, plumbing, installed. Those that came in halves or more
pieces had specific places where the wiring was plugged together between
the halves of the building. We had to move the house to the location,
set it in the foundation, connect the halves (or more) together, install
all supports, cap the roof shingles, plug in all the places where the
wiring had plugs, and sometimes connect some plumbing.

When we finished, an electrician hooked to the power line at a special
connection panel in the basement, or on the smaller units that did not
get a basement, it hooked up under the building. Split bolts were used
almost all the time to connect the bare copper grounding wire that was
pre-installed in the home, to the wire they ran to the grounding rods
that they installed.

After the inspectors checked everything, we came back and attached the
pre-cut trim to all places where there were joints between the different
parts of the building, which covered all the wiring plug connectors and
so on....

On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 16:29:28 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 11:36:48 -0700, mike wrote:


Not on a grounding electrode conductor. They must be unspliced with
the 2 exceptions the OP cited. They do sell a one shot exothermic
splice but it is not cheap. Otherwise you need the big crimper or a
set of Cadweld dies. For most people it is easier to run a new wire
the whole way

I replaced the water main with plastic and needed a new ground for the
electrical system.
I didn't feel comfortable trying to snake a bare wire down past
the service entrance into the box.
I went to the inspector's office and asked about the no-splice
requirement. He said, "no problem, splice onto the existing wire."
Passed inspection without a hitch.
YMMV.

Either that code did not exist around 12 years ago, or there are
exceptions. Around 12 years ago, I worked for a friend who moved and set
prefab homes on their foundations. They came from the factory with all
the wiring, plumbing, installed. Those that came in halves or more
pieces had specific places where the wiring was plugged together between
the halves of the building. We had to move the house to the location,
set it in the foundation, connect the halves (or more) together, install
all supports, cap the roof shingles, plug in all the places where the
wiring had plugs, and sometimes connect some plumbing.

When we finished, an electrician hooked to the power line at a special
connection panel in the basement, or on the smaller units that did not
get a basement, it hooked up under the building. Split bolts were used
almost all the time to connect the bare copper grounding wire that was
pre-installed in the home, to the wire they ran to the grounding rods
that they installed.

After the inspectors checked everything, we came back and attached the
pre-cut trim to all places where there were joints between the different
parts of the building, which covered all the wiring plug connectors and
so on....


It has been in the code at least 48 years, the oldest book I have

posted for all of us...



On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 11:36:48 -0700, mike wrote:


Not on a grounding electrode conductor. They must be unspliced with
the 2 exceptions the OP cited. They do sell a one shot exothermic
splice but it is not cheap. Otherwise you need the big crimper or a
set of Cadweld dies. For most people it is easier to run a new wire
the whole way

I replaced the water main with plastic and needed a new ground for the
electrical system.
I didn't feel comfortable trying to snake a bare wire down past
the service entrance into the box.
I went to the inspector's office and asked about the no-splice
requirement. He said, "no problem, splice onto the existing wire."
Passed inspection without a hitch.
YMMV.

Either that code did not exist around 12 years ago, or there are
exceptions. Around 12 years ago, I worked for a friend who moved and set
prefab homes on their foundations. They came from the factory with all
the wiring, plumbing, installed. Those that came in halves or more
pieces had specific places where the wiring was plugged together between
the halves of the building. We had to move the house to the location,
set it in the foundation, connect the halves (or more) together, install
all supports, cap the roof shingles, plug in all the places where the
wiring had plugs, and sometimes connect some plumbing.

When we finished, an electrician hooked to the power line at a special
connection panel in the basement, or on the smaller units that did not
get a basement, it hooked up under the building. Split bolts were used
almost all the time to connect the bare copper grounding wire that was
pre-installed in the home, to the wire they ran to the grounding rods
that they installed.

After the inspectors checked everything, we came back and attached the
pre-cut trim to all places where there were joints between the different
parts of the building, which covered all the wiring plug connectors and
so on....

You should have realized by now that most of the stuff you do does not pass
muster.

--
Tekkie