SWMBO has decided an above-the-range microwave is to replace existing range hood.

The hood circuit powers other equipment and cannot be used for the microwave. This is a code restriction, not a practical one. The only option is to "move" the existing microwave outlet to the cabinet above the stove, probably 6' away from existing location.

Local codes aside, it it generally acceptable to use armored cable or some other form of mechanical protection to extend the circuit (outside the wall) to the new location? Aesthetically it's not a problem. Fishing wire through walls isn't a good option as cabinets, firewalls and exterior walls are in the way...not worth it for a microwave relocation.

Then there's the extension cord method....

On 12/23/2012 10:41 AM, wrote:
SWMBO has decided an above-the-range microwave is to replace existing range hood.

The hood circuit powers other equipment and cannot be used for the microwave. This is a code restriction, not a practical one. The only option is to "move" the existing microwave outlet to the cabinet above the stove, probably 6' away from existing location.

Local codes aside, it it generally acceptable to use armored cable or some other form of mechanical protection to extend the circuit (outside the wall) to the new location? Aesthetically it's not a problem. Fishing wire through walls isn't a good option as cabinets, firewalls and exterior walls are in the way...not worth it for a microwave relocation.

Then there's the extension cord method....
Assume you've looked into using the existing range hood wire and
reconfiguring the other equipment power for code compliance?

wrote in message
...
SWMBO has decided an above-the-range microwave is to replace existing range
hood.

The hood circuit powers other equipment and cannot be used for the
microwave. This is a code restriction, not a practical one. The only
option is to "move" the existing microwave outlet to the cabinet above the
stove, probably 6' away from existing location.

Local codes aside, it it generally acceptable to use armored cable or some
other form of mechanical protection to extend the circuit (outside the wall)
to the new location? Aesthetically it's not a problem. Fishing wire
through walls isn't a good option as cabinets, firewalls and exterior walls
are in the way...not worth it for a microwave relocation.

Then there's the extension cord method....


Wiremold is an external raceway product and generally approved for such
applications as you describe. You can usually use either the plastic or the
metal types. Big box stores carry a limited stock of raceway lengths,
surface boxes, connectors and other parts; but you can find all of the parts
you need on line through electrical distributors.

Tomsic

On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 10:41:18 -0800 (PST), wrote:

SWMBO has decided an above-the-range microwave is to replace existing range hood.

The hood circuit powers other equipment and cannot be used for the microwave. This is a code restriction, not a practical one. The only option is to "move" the existing microwave outlet to the cabinet above the stove, probably 6' away from existing location.

Local codes aside, it it generally acceptable to use armored cable or some other form of mechanical protection to extend the circuit (outside the wall) to the new location? Aesthetically it's not a problem. Fishing wire through walls isn't a good option as cabinets, firewalls and exterior walls are in the way...not worth it for a microwave relocation.

Then there's the extension cord method....

They make very pretty blue and green cup hooks that can screw to the
ceiling and hold your extension cord.

Or you can use wiremold.

On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 19:19:15 -0500, micky
wrote:

On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 10:41:18 -0800 (PST), wrote:

SWMBO has decided an above-the-range microwave is to replace existing range hood.

The hood circuit powers other equipment and cannot be used for the microwave. This is a code restriction, not a practical one. The only option is to "move" the existing microwave outlet to the cabinet above the stove, probably 6' away from existing location.

Local codes aside, it it generally acceptable to use armored cable or some other form of mechanical protection to extend the circuit (outside the wall) to the new location? Aesthetically it's not a problem. Fishing wire through walls isn't a good option as cabinets, firewalls and exterior walls are in the way...not worth it for a microwave relocation.

Then there's the extension cord method....

They make very pretty blue and green cup hooks that can screw to the
ceiling and hold your extension cord.

Or you can use wiremold.

If the circuits are both on the same countertop, go down and run
armored cable under the countertop and go up the wall cavity behind
the stove.
For what its worth, I have in 28 years as an inspector seen MANY
convert to a venthood and relocate mw. One dropped dish filled with
scalding liquid is enough for most people...
--
Mr.E

On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 19:41:53 -0500, Mr.E wrote:

On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 19:19:15 -0500, micky
wrote:

On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 10:41:18 -0800 (PST), wrote:

SWMBO has decided an above-the-range microwave is to replace existing range hood.

The hood circuit powers other equipment and cannot be used for the microwave. This is a code restriction, not a practical one. The only option is to "move" the existing microwave outlet to the cabinet above the stove, probably 6' away from existing location.

Local codes aside, it it generally acceptable to use armored cable or some other form of mechanical protection to extend the circuit (outside the wall) to the new location? Aesthetically it's not a problem. Fishing wire through walls isn't a good option as cabinets, firewalls and exterior walls are in the way...not worth it for a microwave relocation.

Then there's the extension cord method....

They make very pretty blue and green cup hooks that can screw to the
ceiling and hold your extension cord.

Or you can use wiremold.

If the circuits are both on the same countertop, go down and run
armored cable under the countertop and go up the wall cavity behind
the stove.
For what its worth, I have in 28 years as an inspector seen MANY
convert to a venthood and relocate mw. One dropped dish filled with
scalding liquid is enough for most people...

OTOH, SWMBO would never again have a countertop microwave. It takes
no (usable) space in the hood.

there are those long drill bits made just for drilling thru 2 by 4
fireblocking etc. i wouldnt run it on the outside of the wall even
with wiremold it looks junky....

i have used those longs bits even with extensions they work great.
except for one place here where a steel beam must be buried in the
wall between floors.....

On Sunday, December 23, 2012 6:29:00 PM UTC-3:30, wrote:
On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 10:41:18 -0800 (PST), wrote:


What code restriction? How big is the circuit and what is the rating
of the microwave?

210.23(A)((2) Utilization Equipment Fastened in Place. The total
rating of utilization equipment fastened in place, other than
luminaires, shall not exceed 50 percent of the branch-circuit ampere
rating where lighting units, cord-and-plug-connected utilization
equipment not fastened in place, or both, are also supplied.

If this is a 15a circuit you can put a 900w microwave up there and if
it is 20a you can use a 1200w unit.

Most OTR microwaves are 1000W+. It's a 15A circuit that also includes 6 lights and 5 outlets (the outlets don't carry much load, which is why I said no "practical" restriction). I believe the new micro is 1000W.

Wiremold would actually work pretty well, easily "hidden" at the top of the cabinets. Same comment for armored cable, but wouldn't be quite as clean. The microwave isn't a counter-top model, it sits (poorly) in a little cubby built into the cabinets.

And then option #3 presented itself. There is a spare circuit in the panel and by some miracle there is also an easy path to make the run. I disconnected/abandoned the hood cabling via a nearby light, good to go.

As for no spare circuits left in the panel (after this change), I could always abandon the old microwave outlet...but I can't say I fully understand that requirement.

wrote:
On Sunday, December 23, 2012 6:29:00 PM UTC-3:30, wrote:
On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 10:41:18 -0800 (PST), wrote:


What code restriction? How big is the circuit and what is the rating
of the microwave?

210.23(A)((2) Utilization Equipment Fastened in Place. The total
rating of utilization equipment fastened in place, other than
luminaires, shall not exceed 50 percent of the branch-circuit ampere
rating where lighting units, cord-and-plug-connected utilization
equipment not fastened in place, or both, are also supplied.

If this is a 15a circuit you can put a 900w microwave up there and if
it is 20a you can use a 1200w unit.

Most OTR microwaves are 1000W+. It's a 15A circuit that also includes 6
lights and 5 outlets (the outlets don't carry much load, which is why I
said no "practical" restriction). I believe the new micro is 1000W.

Wiremold would actually work pretty well, easily "hidden" at the top of
the cabinets. Same comment for armored cable, but wouldn't be quite as
clean. The microwave isn't a counter-top model, it sits (poorly) in a
little cubby built into the cabinets.

And then option #3 presented itself. There is a spare circuit in the
panel and by some miracle there is also an easy path to make the run. I
disconnected/abandoned the hood cabling via a nearby light, good to go.

As for no spare circuits left in the panel (after this change), I could
always abandon the old microwave outlet...but I can't say I fully
understand that requirement.

I've had two OTR microwaves, both were under 1kw output power. I never
looked at input power. My little big inverter microwave is near 1200 watts.
I have that mounted on a wall shelf, and my OTR 800 watt output microwave /
900 watts turbo oven. I have a dedicated outlet for the 800 watt OTR, but
NOT with the little/big panasonic. Anyway, check input power requirements,
not output.

Greg

On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 21:24:45 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

there are those long drill bits made just for drilling thru 2 by 4
fireblocking etc

For the record, they are long *flexible* bits. They even have them
now at Home Depot, in 3 and 6 foot lengths. (and maybe others,
especially at a phone or burglar alarm supply store) I forget if 3
feet is enough for this one, but if you want to run wiring from an
unfinished attic down a wall, or from a basement up, , 6 foot is
better, and not that much more.

They cojme in more than one diameter and more than one kind of tip.
Probably most economical to buy a big one.

i wouldnt run it on the outside of the wall even
with wiremold it looks junky....

I agree. I just accepted the OP's judgment.

i have used those longs bits even with extensions they work great.
except for one place here where a steel beam must be buried in the
wall between floors.....

On Dec 25, 2:38*am, micky wrote:
On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 21:24:45 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

there are those long drill bits made just for drilling thru 2 by 4
fireblocking etc

For the record, they are long *flexible* bits. * They even have them
now at Home Depot, in 3 and 6 foot lengths. (and maybe others,
especially at a phone or burglar alarm supply store) * I forget if 3
feet is enough for this one, but if you want to run wiring from an
unfinished attic down a wall, or from a basement up, , 6 foot is
better, and not that much more.

They cojme in more than one diameter and more than one kind of tip.
Probably most economical to buy a big one.

i wouldnt run it on the outside of the wall even
with wiremold it looks junky....

I agree. *I just accepted the OP's judgment.





i have used those longs bits even with extensions they work great.
except for one place here where a steel beam must be buried in the
wall between floors.....

they also have a hole in the end of the auger type bit to connect your
new wire too......

very convenient

On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 06:06:19 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

On Dec 25, 2:38*am, micky wrote:
On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 21:24:45 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

there are those long drill bits made just for drilling thru 2 by 4
fireblocking etc

For the record, they are long *flexible* bits. * They even have them
now at Home Depot, in 3 and 6 foot lengths. (and maybe others,
especially at a phone or burglar alarm supply store) * I forget if 3
feet is enough for this one, but if you want to run wiring from an
unfinished attic down a wall, or from a basement up, , 6 foot is
better, and not that much more.

They cojme in more than one diameter and more than one kind of tip.
Probably most economical to buy a big one.

i wouldnt run it on the outside of the wall even
with wiremold it looks junky....

I agree. *I just accepted the OP's judgment.





i have used those longs bits even with extensions they work great.
except for one place here where a steel beam must be buried in the
wall between floors.....

they also have a hole in the end of the auger type bit to connect your
new wire too......

very convenient
Called an "installer bit"