8 HP B&S engine on my 4.4 kW generator. Vintage 1992. Low hours for its
age. The carb is an updraft type with a round fuel bowl surrounding the
barrel.

I've had more issues with this one B&S engine (mostly carb) than a
lifetime of Tecumseh.

Engine starts and runs. Some hunting but I think a new governor spring
will help that and/or futzing with that fine spring that is wrapped
around the linkage wire which I guess takes up any tiny amount of play.

But it stops after about 3 minutes. Can restart easily but stops again a
few minutes later each time.

Assuming it's not a mysterious ignition failure, it's being starved for
fuel. But why? It's not actual flow of fuel...disconnecting the hose,
it runs out fine. I previously thought it was the fact that I cannot see
how air can get into the fuel tank and was considering making a pinhole
but running the engine with the tank moved away a bit so the cap can be
left off entirely (@ normal height) produced the same cuttoffs so it's
not that.

I did get a carb kit a few years back and replaced the various parts.
I've always had issues of seepage where the bowl fits together and I've
always made sure the surfaces were polished clean, used a new gasket,
gasket plus Permatex, or Permatex alone. Someone suggested that the fuel
level in the bowl was simply too high so on the last go-round I bent the
tab on the float to shut the valve sooner. So that is one possibility--
that the flow is less than consumption and it just runs out of gas until
the bowl is replenished.

Another thought is whether there is some sort of air vent into the bowl
that is clogged. It's true that I don't totally understand the various
passages in this carb. Like on the underside, near the intake, there is
an opening that is filled with copper-colored metal granuals, sort of
like some auto fuel filters. I don't know if that requires cleaning.

My most recent assembly of the bowl involved 2-part epoxy so it will be a
bear to open and clean that off but at least there's no more seepage. If
I do go back in and apparently I must, I'd like to make it count.

One other option, is valve clearance. It's tough to explain in text. I'll
try and find a web page that can explain better than I.

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you... _14.5_hp_eng
This is less than useful. Buy the manual, it says.

Wish I could find a good web page.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Steve Kraus" wrote in message
...
8 HP B&S engine on my 4.4 kW generator. Vintage 1992. Low hours for its
age. The carb is an updraft type with a round fuel bowl surrounding the
barrel.

I've had more issues with this one B&S engine (mostly carb) than a
lifetime of Tecumseh.

Engine starts and runs. Some hunting but I think a new governor spring
will help that and/or futzing with that fine spring that is wrapped
around the linkage wire which I guess takes up any tiny amount of play.

But it stops after about 3 minutes. Can restart easily but stops again a
few minutes later each time.

Assuming it's not a mysterious ignition failure, it's being starved for
fuel. But why? It's not actual flow of fuel...disconnecting the hose,
it runs out fine. I previously thought it was the fact that I cannot see
how air can get into the fuel tank and was considering making a pinhole
but running the engine with the tank moved away a bit so the cap can be
left off entirely (@ normal height) produced the same cuttoffs so it's
not that.

I did get a carb kit a few years back and replaced the various parts.
I've always had issues of seepage where the bowl fits together and I've
always made sure the surfaces were polished clean, used a new gasket,
gasket plus Permatex, or Permatex alone. Someone suggested that the fuel
level in the bowl was simply too high so on the last go-round I bent the
tab on the float to shut the valve sooner. So that is one possibility--
that the flow is less than consumption and it just runs out of gas until
the bowl is replenished.

Another thought is whether there is some sort of air vent into the bowl
that is clogged. It's true that I don't totally understand the various
passages in this carb. Like on the underside, near the intake, there is
an opening that is filled with copper-colored metal granuals, sort of
like some auto fuel filters. I don't know if that requires cleaning.

My most recent assembly of the bowl involved 2-part epoxy so it will be a
bear to open and clean that off but at least there's no more seepage. If
I do go back in and apparently I must, I'd like to make it count.

On Wed, 05 Dec 2012 10:22:24 -0600, Steve Kraus
wrote:

8 HP B&S engine on my 4.4 kW generator. Vintage 1992. Low hours for its
age. The carb is an updraft type with a round fuel bowl surrounding the
barrel.

I've had more issues with this one B&S engine (mostly carb) than a
lifetime of Tecumseh.

Engine starts and runs. Some hunting but I think a new governor spring
will help that and/or futzing with that fine spring that is wrapped
around the linkage wire which I guess takes up any tiny amount of play.

But it stops after about 3 minutes. Can restart easily but stops again a
few minutes later each time.

Assuming it's not a mysterious ignition failure, it's being starved for
fuel. But why? It's not actual flow of fuel...disconnecting the hose,
it runs out fine. I previously thought it was the fact that I cannot see
how air can get into the fuel tank and was considering making a pinhole
but running the engine with the tank moved away a bit so the cap can be
left off entirely (@ normal height) produced the same cuttoffs so it's
not that.

I did get a carb kit a few years back and replaced the various parts.
I've always had issues of seepage where the bowl fits together and I've
always made sure the surfaces were polished clean, used a new gasket,
gasket plus Permatex, or Permatex alone. Someone suggested that the fuel
level in the bowl was simply too high so on the last go-round I bent the
tab on the float to shut the valve sooner. So that is one possibility--
that the flow is less than consumption and it just runs out of gas until
the bowl is replenished.

Another thought is whether there is some sort of air vent into the bowl
that is clogged. It's true that I don't totally understand the various
passages in this carb. Like on the underside, near the intake, there is
an opening that is filled with copper-colored metal granuals, sort of
like some auto fuel filters. I don't know if that requires cleaning.

My most recent assembly of the bowl involved 2-part epoxy so it will be a
bear to open and clean that off but at least there's no more seepage. If
I do go back in and apparently I must, I'd like to make it count.

I would replace the needle and seat with a Briggs part, set the float
height per Briggs and see if this doesn't improve things. Use a very
new part if possible and run the genset out of fuel when stopping it
to not get it pickled in ethanol.
--
Mr.E

On Dec 5, 11:22*am, Steve Kraus
wrote:
8 HP B&S engine on my 4.4 kW generator. *Vintage 1992. *Low hours for its
age. *The carb is an updraft type with a round fuel bowl surrounding the
barrel.

I've had more issues with this one B&S engine (mostly carb) than a
lifetime of Tecumseh.

Engine starts and runs. *Some hunting but I think a new governor spring
will help that and/or futzing with that fine spring that is wrapped
around the linkage wire which I guess takes up any tiny amount of play.

Given that it stops after 3 mins, I would not suspect or
fiddle with the governor until the engine was running
correctly. It would seem more likely the hunting could be
related to the same problem that ulimately causes it to
stall.



But it stops after about 3 minutes. *Can restart easily but stops again a
few minutes later each time.

Assuming it's not a mysterious ignition failure,

I would think with an intermittent ignition problem you'd get some
backfiring. By intermittent I mean a failing coil, loose wire, etc.
But the ignition could be cut off by something that cuts it off
cleanly too, eg oil pressure switch? over temp? If it has those,
I'd figure out how to temporarily bypass them.






it's being starved for
fuel. *But why? *It's not actual flow of fuel...disconnecting the hose,
it runs out fine. *I previously thought it was the fact that I cannot see
how air can get into the fuel tank and was considering making a pinhole
but running the engine with the tank moved away a bit so the cap can be
left off entirely (@ normal height) produced the same cuttoffs so it's
not that.

I did get a carb kit a few years back and replaced the various parts.
I've always had issues of seepage where the bowl fits together and I've
always made sure the surfaces were polished clean, used a new gasket,
gasket plus Permatex, or Permatex alone. *Someone suggested that the fuel
level in the bowl was simply too high so on the last go-round I bent the
tab on the float to shut the valve sooner. *So that is one possibility--
that the flow is less than consumption and it just runs out of gas until
the bowl is replenished.

Another thought is whether there is some sort of air vent into the bowl
that is clogged. *It's true that I don't totally understand the various
passages in this carb. *Like on the underside, near the intake, there is
an opening that is filled with copper-colored metal granuals, sort of
like some auto fuel filters. *I don't know if that requires cleaning.

My most recent assembly of the bowl involved 2-part epoxy so it will be a
bear to open and clean that off but at least there's no more seepage. *If
I do go back in and apparently I must, I'd like to make it count.

Carbs are the #1 source of problems in these engines. It is
a bit odd though for it to run for 3 mins though, assuming it's
running pretty much OK. Also, not clear if it was running OK
prior to your fiddling with the float or if it ran OK at some point
after that, etc. If it started with that, I'd suspect that as the
problem.

My approach to these is to get a rebuild kit. Take out all
the welch plugs, blow it out completely, used carb cleaner
as needed. Then re-assemble, set needle valves close to
where they were, or better yet per service manual and go
from there.

Oh, thanks for the memory. My sister and her yuppie hubbie got a generator.
It would run for a couple seconds, and quit. They bought another one, gave
me the first. Only problem, a couple ounces low oil.

To the OP, please add four ounces of oil, see if that helps. Oil needs to
be on the "full" level, before starting.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...

I would think with an intermittent ignition problem you'd get some
backfiring. By intermittent I mean a failing coil, loose wire, etc.
But the ignition could be cut off by something that cuts it off
cleanly too, eg oil pressure switch? over temp? If it has those,
I'd figure out how to temporarily bypass them.

Thanks but this machine is not so sophisticated as to have a low oil
cutoff. I changed the oil a few days ago just to be sure.


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:

Oh, thanks for the memory. My sister and her yuppie hubbie got a
generator. It would run for a couple seconds, and quit. They bought
another one, gave me the first. Only problem, a couple ounces low oil.

To the OP, please add four ounces of oil, see if that helps. Oil
needs to be on the "full" level, before starting.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

wrote in message
..
.

I would think with an intermittent ignition problem you'd get some
backfiring. By intermittent I mean a failing coil, loose wire, etc.
But the ignition could be cut off by something that cuts it off
cleanly too, eg oil pressure switch? over temp? If it has those,
I'd figure out how to temporarily bypass them.

I would replace the needle and seat with a Briggs part, set the float
height per Briggs and see if this doesn't improve things. Use a very
new part if possible and run the genset out of fuel when stopping it
to not get it pickled in ethanol.

I always shut down by turning off the fuel flow and letting it run out.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:

One other option, is valve clearance. It's tough to explain in text.
I'll try and find a web page that can explain better than I.

Hmm...that's interesting. That could cause it to just suddenly stop as
though I'd turned off the fuel flow?

A can tell you that when it runs, it sounds okay other than the hunting and
if I hold the throttle valve steady to prevent the hunting then it sounds
very good. I could be wrong but I still believe fuel starvation.

On Wed, 05 Dec 2012 17:52:30 -0600, Steve Kraus
wrote:

A can tell you that when it runs, it sounds okay other than the hunting and
if I hold the throttle valve steady to prevent the hunting then it sounds
very good. I could be wrong but I still believe fuel starvation.

Try loosening the gas cap 1/4 turn. If the cap is clogged a vacuum
develops in the fuel tank, causing fuel starvation.

If it runs past a few minutes then clear the hole in the cap with a
paperclip and tighten the cap.

On Wed, 05 Dec 2012 12:34:06 -0500, Mr.E wrote:

On Wed, 05 Dec 2012 10:22:24 -0600, Steve Kraus
wrote:

8 HP B&S engine on my 4.4 kW generator. Vintage 1992. Low hours for its
age. The carb is an updraft type with a round fuel bowl surrounding the
barrel.

I've had more issues with this one B&S engine (mostly carb) than a
lifetime of Tecumseh.

Engine starts and runs. Some hunting but I think a new governor spring
will help that and/or futzing with that fine spring that is wrapped
around the linkage wire which I guess takes up any tiny amount of play.

But it stops after about 3 minutes. Can restart easily but stops again a
few minutes later each time.

Assuming it's not a mysterious ignition failure, it's being starved for
fuel. But why? It's not actual flow of fuel...disconnecting the hose,
it runs out fine. I previously thought it was the fact that I cannot see
how air can get into the fuel tank and was considering making a pinhole
but running the engine with the tank moved away a bit so the cap can be
left off entirely (@ normal height) produced the same cuttoffs so it's
not that.

I did get a carb kit a few years back and replaced the various parts.
I've always had issues of seepage where the bowl fits together and I've
always made sure the surfaces were polished clean, used a new gasket,
gasket plus Permatex, or Permatex alone. Someone suggested that the fuel
level in the bowl was simply too high so on the last go-round I bent the
tab on the float to shut the valve sooner. So that is one possibility--
that the flow is less than consumption and it just runs out of gas until
the bowl is replenished.

Another thought is whether there is some sort of air vent into the bowl
that is clogged. It's true that I don't totally understand the various
passages in this carb. Like on the underside, near the intake, there is
an opening that is filled with copper-colored metal granuals, sort of
like some auto fuel filters. I don't know if that requires cleaning.

My most recent assembly of the bowl involved 2-part epoxy so it will be a
bear to open and clean that off but at least there's no more seepage. If
I do go back in and apparently I must, I'd like to make it count.

I would replace the needle and seat with a Briggs part, set the float
height per Briggs and see if this doesn't improve things. Use a very
new part if possible and run the genset out of fuel when stopping it
to not get it pickled in ethanol.
Use ethanol free if possible. On those B&S carbs holes in the brass
float are not terribly uncommon - the pivots get sloppy and the float
hits the bowl and wears through. (on high hour engines.)

On Wed, 05 Dec 2012 17:52:30 -0600, Steve Kraus
wrote:

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:

One other option, is valve clearance. It's tough to explain in text.
I'll try and find a web page that can explain better than I.

Hmm...that's interesting. That could cause it to just suddenly stop as
though I'd turned off the fuel flow?

A can tell you that when it runs, it sounds okay other than the hunting and
if I hold the throttle valve steady to prevent the hunting then it sounds
very good. I could be wrong but I still believe fuel starvation.
It'll hunt if it's lean.

Typically fades and dies, in about a second. When the valve clearance is
inadequate, the valve heat up and get longer. Eventually, the valve doesn't
close completely, and you lose compression. Typically takes 15 minutes,
though.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Steve Kraus" wrote in message
...

One other option, is valve clearance. It's tough to explain in text.
I'll try and find a web page that can explain better than I.

Hmm...that's interesting. That could cause it to just suddenly stop as
though I'd turned off the fuel flow?

A can tell you that when it runs, it sounds okay other than the hunting and
if I hold the throttle valve steady to prevent the hunting then it sounds
very good. I could be wrong but I still believe fuel starvation.

Roger that!

Well, that leaves several other options.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Steve Kraus" wrote in message
...
Thanks but this machine is not so sophisticated as to have a low oil
cutoff. I changed the oil a few days ago just to be sure.


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:

Oh, thanks for the memory. My sister and her yuppie hubbie got a
generator. It would run for a couple seconds, and quit. They bought
another one, gave me the first. Only problem, a couple ounces low oil.

To the OP, please add four ounces of oil, see if that helps. Oil
needs to be on the "full" level, before starting.

Oren wrote:
Try loosening the gas cap 1/4 turn. If the cap is clogged a vacuum
develops in the fuel tank, causing fuel starvation.

If it runs past a few minutes then clear the hole in the cap with a
paperclip and tighten the cap.

Yeah, as I said in the original post, I suspected that but disproved it by
removing the tank and setting it up a short distance away at the same
height and running the engine with the gas cap completely off the tank. I
was so certain that this time it would continue to run but no, it stopped
the same way.

Never did see any hole in the cap so not sure how that works but it's not
the cause of the stoppages.

On Dec 5, 6:52*pm, Steve Kraus
wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote :

One other option, is valve clearance. It's tough to explain in text.
I'll try and find a web page that can explain better than I.

Hmm...that's interesting. *That could cause it to just suddenly stop as
though I'd turned off the fuel flow?

Not in my world.

Does, in my world.

Hey, what's the weather like, there?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...
On Dec 5, 6:52 pm, Steve Kraus
wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote
:

One other option, is valve clearance. It's tough to explain in text.
I'll try and find a web page that can explain better than I.

Hmm...that's interesting. That could cause it to just suddenly stop as
though I'd turned off the fuel flow?

Not in my world.

Just a followup to say I'd adjusted the float tab so the float sits flat
when upside down and I think that may have been it. More extensive tests
to come but it wasn't stopping after a couple minutes. Still a little
hunting. I may replace the whole carb all the same.

Thanks for the field report. You mighta got it.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Steve Kraus" wrote in message
m...
Just a followup to say I'd adjusted the float tab so the float sits flat
when upside down and I think that may have been it. More extensive tests
to come but it wasn't stopping after a couple minutes. Still a little
hunting. I may replace the whole carb all the same.

On Wed, 12 Dec 2012 19:14:12 -0600, Steve Kraus
wrote:

Just a followup to say I'd adjusted the float tab so the float sits flat
when upside down and I think that may have been it. More extensive tests
to come but it wasn't stopping after a couple minutes. Still a little
hunting. I may replace the whole carb all the same.

When I tinker with the float I go ahead and remove / clean the jet
seat - while I'm 'in there'. Some spray carb cleaner works swell.