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#1
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Gap to be expected?
Hi,
My cabinet maker tells me that this kind of hinge: http://freeboundaries.com/Hinge.jpg unavoidably leads to this type of gap: http://freeboundaries.com/Gap.jpg I can't see how that can be an acceptable gap. Am I correct and, if so, what arguments can I use with the cabinet maker. (If I may request, please don't comment on other flaws that are evident from the picture. Thank you! Sam |
#2
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Gap to be expected?
Sam,
Would you indicate which gap you find offensive. Top? Left? Right? Dave M. |
#4
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Gap to be expected?
On 11-06-2012 18:44, wrote:
My cabinet maker tells me that this kind of hinge: http://freeboundaries.com/Hinge.jpg unavoidably leads to this type of gap: http://freeboundaries.com/Gap.jpg I can't see how that can be an acceptable gap. Am I correct and, if so, what arguments can I use with the cabinet maker. (If I may request, please don't comment on other flaws that are evident from the picture. I'm not an expert, but I've had those kind of hinges and I think he's "sort of" telling the truth to deceive you. Those hinges have adjustment screws in them. They can be adjusted to make the door line up properly. -- Wes Groleau €śWould the prodigal have gone home if the elder brother was running the farm?€ť €” James Jordan |
#5
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Gap to be expected?
On Nov 6, 7:46*pm, Wes Groleau wrote:
On 11-06-2012 18:44, wrote: My cabinet maker tells me that this kind of hinge: http://freeboundaries.com/Hinge.jpg unavoidably leads to this type of gap: http://freeboundaries.com/Gap.jpg I can't see how that can be an acceptable gap. Am I correct and, if so, what arguments can I use with the cabinet maker. (If I may request, please don't comment on other flaws that are evident from the picture. I'm not an expert, but I've had those kind of hinges and I think he's "sort of" telling the truth to deceive you. *Those hinges have adjustment screws in them. *They can be adjusted to make the door line up properly. -- Wes Groleau * * “Would the prodigal have gone home if * * *the elder brother was running the farm?” * * * * * * * * * * * *— James Jordan Yes, and if there aren't any adjustment screws, any competent carpenter can mount the hinges so that there is a negligible difference in a very small gap on all 4 sides of the door (assuming the rest of the cabinet is truly square and the door is not warped). |
#6
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Gap to be expected?
Hi,
Thank you for the responses. They really help. I know I also confused a lot of people, too. So I also took a short video illustrating the problem. Many thanks, Sam |
#7
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Gap to be expected?
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#8
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Gap to be expected?
On Nov 6, 11:44*pm, wrote:
Hi, My cabinet maker tells me that this kind of hinge: http://freeboundaries.com/Hinge.jpg unavoidably leads to this type of gap: http://freeboundaries.com/Gap.jpg I can't see how that can be an acceptable gap. Am I correct and, if so, what arguments can I use with the cabinet maker. (If I may request, please don't comment on other flaws that are evident from the picture. Thank you! Sam The cabinet door is possibly warped. This could be hidden by adjusting so that the unequal gap was at the bottom of the door and invisible. Or a new door. The proper solution. |
#9
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Gap to be expected?
Sam,
Thanks for the video. Yes, the gap is huge and unacceptable. There are adjusting screws on the hinges. Have you tried these adjustments? If the adjustment has "maxed out" and you still have a large gap then he may have not mounted the hinges in the correct places. There are jigs to locate the holes for these sorts of hinges. Dave M |
#10
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Gap to be expected?
On 11/7/2012 7:49 AM, David L. Martel wrote:
Sam, Thanks for the video. Yes, the gap is huge and unacceptable. There are adjusting screws on the hinges. Have you tried these adjustments? If the adjustment has "maxed out" and you still have a large gap then he may have not mounted the hinges in the correct places. There are jigs to locate the holes for these sorts of hinges. Or he may not have used the proper mount for the setback and thickness of face frame...not possible to tell w/o knowing the answers to the questions asked above as well as dimensions... But obviously adjustment is first step and if they're appropriate and mounted correctly the door can be aligned properly as well (unless it's out of square or plane or somesuch which given the looks of the rest is also a reasonable probability... -- |
#11
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Gap to be expected?
Thank you!
The face is 3/4" stock, and I will try to find out the brand and the model today. Thanks again, Sam |
#12
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Gap to be expected?
wrote in message ... Hi, My cabinet maker tells me that this kind of hinge: http://freeboundaries.com/Hinge.jpg unavoidably leads to this type of gap: http://freeboundaries.com/Gap.jpg I can't see how that can be an acceptable gap. Am I correct and, if so, what arguments can I use with the cabinet maker. (If I may request, please don't comment on other flaws that are evident from the picture. Thank you! Sam The only way it leads to that gap, is it's not adjusted or mounted correctly. I have that type of hinge mounted with 3/4" maple. In fact, I have to adjust a couple of them, because I'm getting a gap, but not as large as you have. If I find the time, I will post it later today. |
#13
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Gap to be expected?
Thank you, that would be very much appreciated.
Meanwhile, here's the actual hinge used: http://freeboundaries.com/HingeModel.pdf Thanks again, Sam |
#14
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Gap to be expected?
wrote in message ... Thank you, that would be very much appreciated. Meanwhile, here's the actual hinge used: http://freeboundaries.com/HingeModel.pdf Thanks again, Sam Let me know if the link doesn't work for you. For some reason, it was acting funky. I definitely have same kind of hinges. http://picasaweb.google.com/Roofguy35/KitchenHingesBlum |
#15
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Gap to be expected?
On Nov 8, 1:57*pm, "Kronos" wrote:
wrote in message ... Thank you, that would be very much appreciated. Meanwhile, here's the actual hinge used: http://freeboundaries.com/HingeModel.pdf Thanks again, Sam Let me know if the link doesn't work for you. For some reason, it was acting funky. *I definitely have same kind of hinges. http://picasaweb.google.com/Roofguy35/KitchenHingesBlum Your doors are my winter project! I have stick built cabinets and I don't want to lose the openess of the interior by replacing them with indivdual boxes. However, the doors are getting very old looking. I like the simple style of your doors. Do me a favor, verify these dimensions: the frames are 3/4" stock, the panel is 1/4", right? How snug is the panel? Is there a bevel where the frame meets the panel on the exterior? What kind of wood are the frames and the panel. I assume the panel is veneered pywood, right? Any info you can provide would help me take the plunge and get started. Thanks! |
#16
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Gap to be expected?
On 11/8/2012 9:44 AM, wrote:
Thank you, that would be very much appreciated. Meanwhile, here's the actual hinge used: http://freeboundaries.com/HingeModel.pdf .... You've not really provided the details sufficient to tell anything--the picture doesn't show the mounting, you've not indicated whether the hole depth/positioning follows the spec (if somebody tried this freehand instead of biting the bullet for the jig all bets are off), etc., etc., etc., ... As noted by many, _assuming_ the hinge is mounted properly, there's adjustment in all three directions--up/down, left/right, in/out to get the door to fit properly. Of course, as noted, if the face frames aren't coplanar or are twisted or the depth is wrong or whatever else, then you may not be able to get them adjusted well... -- |
#17
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Gap to be expected?
DerbyDad03 wrote: On Nov 8, 1:57 pm, "Kronos" wrote: wrote in message ... Thank you, that would be very much appreciated. Meanwhile, here's the actual hinge used: http://freeboundaries.com/HingeModel.pdf Thanks again, Sam Let me know if the link doesn't work for you. For some reason, it was acting funky. I definitely have same kind of hinges. http://picasaweb.google.com/Roofguy35/KitchenHingesBlum Your doors are my winter project! I have stick built cabinets and I don't want to lose the openess of the interior by replacing them with indivdual boxes. However, the doors are getting very old looking. I like the simple style of your doors. Do me a favor, verify these dimensions: the frames are 3/4" stock, the panel is 1/4", right? How snug is the panel? Is there a bevel where the frame meets the panel on the exterior? What kind of wood are the frames and the panel. I assume the panel is veneered pywood, right? Any info you can provide would help me take the plunge and get started. Thanks! Hate to disappoint you, but these are Chinese cabinets! I searched high & low for a quality cabinet. I am still able to get contractor pricing at supply houses, but everything you want is an upgrade. Anyways, found a place not far from me, which sells knocked down cabinets from China, much better quality than I could even find at the Kraftmaid manufacturer, which isn't far me either! http://www.windyhillhardwoods.com/ The cabinets are maple with a cherry stain. The panels are loose for expansion/contraction, I put a dab of silicone on the inside on a couple of the panels, which were a bit to loose to my liking. They are 1/4" panels & 3/4" maple rails & stiles. I added a picture of detail for the doors, there is a bevel. We too liked the simple style, figure it will never go out of style! The custom I added was the molding above & below the cabinets. Everything else, 6 ply plywood sides, dovetailed drawers, 3/4" solid maple shelving, etc came from China. |
#18
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Gap to be expected?
"Kronos" wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote: Do me a favor, verify these dimensions: the frames are 3/4" stock, the panel is 1/4", right? How snug is the panel? Is there a bevel where the frame meets the panel on the exterior? What kind of wood are the frames and the panel. I assume the panel is veneered pywood, right? Any info you can provide would help me take the plunge and get started. Thanks! Hate to disappoint you, but these are Chinese cabinets! I searched high & low for a quality cabinet. I am still able to get contractor pricing at supply houses, but everything you want is an upgrade. Anyways, found a place not far from me, which sells knocked down cabinets from China, much better quality than I could even find at the Kraftmaid manufacturer, which isn't far me either! http://www.windyhillhardwoods.com/ The cabinets are maple with a cherry stain. The panels are loose for expansion/contraction, I put a dab of silicone on the inside on a couple of the panels, which were a bit to loose to my liking. They are 1/4" panels & 3/4" maple rails & stiles. I added a picture of detail for the doors, there is a bevel. We too liked the simple style, figure it will never go out of style! The custom I added was the molding above & below the cabinets. Everything else, 6 ply plywood sides, dovetailed drawers, 3/4" solid maple shelving, etc came from China. Thanks for the extra picture. That's not a bevel, that's a piece of moulding as far as I can tell, but that's fine. Even easier than a bevel. ;-) |
#19
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Gap to be expected?
"Kronos" wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote: On Nov 8, 1:57 pm, "Kronos" wrote: http://picasaweb.google.com/Roofguy35/KitchenHingesBlum I added a picture of detail for the doors, there is a bevel. We too liked the simple style, figure it will never go out of style! The custom I added was the molding above & below the cabinets. Everything else, 6 ply plywood sides, dovetailed drawers, 3/4" solid maple shelving, etc came from China. Thanks for the extra picture. It looks like they added a strip of molding around the inside of the frame. Easier than a bevel. |
#20
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Gap to be expected?
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message ... "Kronos" wrote: DerbyDad03 wrote: On Nov 8, 1:57 pm, "Kronos" wrote: http://picasaweb.google.com/Roofguy35/KitchenHingesBlum I added a picture of detail for the doors, there is a bevel. We too liked the simple style, figure it will never go out of style! The custom I added was the molding above & below the cabinets. Everything else, 6 ply plywood sides, dovetailed drawers, 3/4" solid maple shelving, etc came from China. Thanks for the extra picture. It looks like they added a strip of molding around the inside of the frame. Easier than a bevel. Nope, it's a routered edge. A piece of moulding would work! |
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