At the church, someone knocked off about 6 inch length of varnished wood
baseboard. The mating surface is some kind of goop that didn't hold. Behind
that is wall paper, and some bare drywall.

At the end, the wooden ends are bevelled, and match up to another bevelled,
varnished wood.

My bottle of gorilla glue had locked up. I went to Home Depot, and bought a
tube of Seal All, which I can use for other stuff after the baseboard. I'm
not all sure this will stick.

What works better? Liquid nails? Silicone caulk? Or should I bought fresh
bottle of gorilla glue?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

In article , "Stormin Mormon" wrote:
At the church, someone knocked off about 6 inch length of varnished wood
baseboard.

Any particular reason why the normal technique of nailing isn't appropriate
here?

Art

Yes. Behind the drywall, is cinderblock. Would take some intense nails.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Arthur Shapiro" wrote in message
...
In article , "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
At the church, someone knocked off about 6 inch length of varnished wood
baseboard.

Any particular reason why the normal technique of nailing isn't appropriate
here?

Art

On 8/2/2012 12:57 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
At the church, someone knocked off about 6 inch length of varnished wood
baseboard. The mating surface is some kind of goop that didn't hold. Behind
that is wall paper, and some bare drywall.

At the end, the wooden ends are bevelled, and match up to another bevelled,
varnished wood.

My bottle of gorilla glue had locked up. I went to Home Depot, and bought a
tube of Seal All, which I can use for other stuff after the baseboard. I'm
not all sure this will stick.

What works better? Liquid nails? Silicone caulk? Or should I bought fresh
bottle of gorilla glue?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.



i would use liquid nails. silicone would take a good 24 hours to fully
cure, and isn't that good of an adhesive anyway.

gorilla glue is best used for wood-wood gluing.

"Arthur Shapiro" wrote in message
...
In article , "Stormin
Mormon"
wrote:
At the church, someone knocked off about 6 inch length of varnished wood
baseboard.

Any particular reason why the normal technique of nailing isn't
appropriate
here?

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
. ..

Yes. Behind the drywall, is cinderblock. Would take some intense nails.

Simplest cu
1: Cut out the bottom edge of the drywall, say 1.75 inches high, the
thickness of a 2x4.
2. Fasten to the cinderblock (with glue or concrete anchors)
a block of wood deep enough to fill the space between the
cinderblock and the papered surface of the drywall.
3. Replace baseboard, nailed into the wood. It can be replaced
when redecorating. (I assume the baseboard stands more than
1.75" high.)

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

Thanks, that might be exactly what's needed.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"chaniarts" wrote in message
...

i would use liquid nails. silicone would take a good 24 hours to fully
cure, and isn't that good of an adhesive anyway.

gorilla glue is best used for wood-wood gluing.

Please accept my apologies. I really need to have posted a photo. I didn't
provide complete information, and it shows in the replies. Anyone have a
free photo hosting to reccomend?

The bottom two inches or so, is carpet that is glued to the wall. The
baseboard doesn't actually go down to the floor level.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Don Phillipson" wrote in message
...


Simplest cu
1: Cut out the bottom edge of the drywall, say 1.75 inches high, the
thickness of a 2x4.
2. Fasten to the cinderblock (with glue or concrete anchors)
a block of wood deep enough to fill the space between the
cinderblock and the papered surface of the drywall.
3. Replace baseboard, nailed into the wood. It can be replaced
when redecorating. (I assume the baseboard stands more than
1.75" high.)

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Please accept my apologies. I really need to have posted a photo. I
didn't provide complete information, and it shows in the replies. . . . ,

Anyone have a free photo hosting to reccomend?

I use this: http://tinypic.com/ .

It's free, no sign-up or password to figure out and remember, etc.

On Aug 2, 6:02*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Thanks, that might be exactly what's needed.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"chaniarts" wrote in message

...

i would use liquid nails. silicone would take a good 24 hours to fully
cure, and isn't that good of an adhesive anyway.

gorilla glue is best used for wood-wood gluing.

Agree with the liquid nails or similar construction
adhesive. I'd go sparingly with it, a few dabs in
areas where there is bare drywall. I think you have
a better chance of a tight fit as opposed to silicone
which remains soft and has give.

I vote for the liquid nails.

The bottom two inches or so, is carpet that is glued to the wall. The
baseboard doesn't actually go down to the floor level.

*Thinking out loud: I'm wondering how they attached the drywall to the cinder blocks! Liquid nails? They likely used a 2" spacer, on the floor, to install the drywall 2" off the floor, for the subsequent carpet to ride up the wall, that way. Interesting! I wonder if the church was built with the help of members of the congregation, ^5, so maybe the floor wasnt exactly level. This may help explain the need(?) for that 2" offset.... otherwise, it was just part of the design.

Sonny

I hope this works.
http://tinypic.com/r/24eq4np/6

a href="http://tinypic.com?ref=24eq4np" target="_blank"img
src="http://i50.tinypic.com/24eq4np.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video
hosting by TinyPic"/a



One of those oughta work.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"TomR" wrote in message
...
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Please accept my apologies. I really need to have posted a photo. I
didn't provide complete information, and it shows in the replies. . . . ,

Anyone have a free photo hosting to reccomend?

I use this: http://tinypic.com/ .

It's free, no sign-up or password to figure out and remember, etc.

On 8/2/2012 2:57 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
At the church, someone knocked off about 6 inch length of varnished wood
baseboard. The mating surface is some kind of goop that didn't hold. Behind
that is wall paper, and some bare drywall.

At the end, the wooden ends are bevelled, and match up to another bevelled,
varnished wood.

My bottle of gorilla glue had locked up. I went to Home Depot, and bought a
tube of Seal All, which I can use for other stuff after the baseboard. I'm
not all sure this will stick.

What works better? Liquid nails? Silicone caulk? Or should I bought fresh
bottle of gorilla glue?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.




Go to an auto parts store and buy some weatherstrip adhesive.
Make sure it says 3M - do NOT buy the cheaper store brand. They have
black, clear, and the original yellow. Functions a bit like contact
cement with extra body. A really useful weapon in a maintenance
arsenal. I would be VERY confident of it holding your wood block.. Be
careful not to get it on surfaces that show and use sparingly - a little
goes a long way.

--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven

On 8/2/2012 3:44 PM, chaniarts wrote:
On 8/2/2012 12:57 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
At the church, someone knocked off about 6 inch length of varnished wood
baseboard. The mating surface is some kind of goop that didn't hold.
Behind
that is wall paper, and some bare drywall.

At the end, the wooden ends are bevelled, and match up to another
bevelled,
varnished wood.

My bottle of gorilla glue had locked up. I went to Home Depot, and
bought a
tube of Seal All, which I can use for other stuff after the baseboard.
I'm
not all sure this will stick.

What works better? Liquid nails? Silicone caulk? Or should I bought fresh
bottle of gorilla glue?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.



i would use liquid nails. silicone would take a good 24 hours to fully
cure, and isn't that good of an adhesive anyway.

gorilla glue is best used for wood-wood gluing.

Gorilla glue has its place, but requires some serious clamping. I
wouldn't think of using it on this problem.

--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven

You know, I'd never thought of that. At the moment, the piece is held on
with Seal All, used as contact cement. But, who can tell how long that will
hold?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"DanG" wrote in message
...

Go to an auto parts store and buy some weatherstrip adhesive.
Make sure it says 3M - do NOT buy the cheaper store brand. They have
black, clear, and the original yellow. Functions a bit like contact
cement with extra body. A really useful weapon in a maintenance
arsenal. I would be VERY confident of it holding your wood block.. Be
careful not to get it on surfaces that show and use sparingly - a little
goes a long way.

--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven

Stormin Mormon wrote:
I hope this works.
http://tinypic.com/r/24eq4np/6

That link works for me.

Instead of glue, couldn't you use a couple of very small finish nails to tie
in the 90-degree corner and maybe a finish nail (or a little glue) to
toenail or tie in the end that goes against the door trim? I would probably
pre-drill to holes for the 90-degree corner to prevent splitting, and maybe
do the same on the end that attaches to the door trim.

You know, great idea, finishing nails. At the moment, the wood is held on
with some Seal All, from Home Depot. I'll pilot hole with a brand new bit,
and use a couple finishing nails from wood to wood, if this comes loose
again. Some glue, and clamps. Thanks, great idea.

I can run a board from point A to point B, and use a furniture clamp on
backwards, and press on the baseboard.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"TomR" wrote in message
...
Stormin Mormon wrote:
I hope this works.
http://tinypic.com/r/24eq4np/6

That link works for me.

Instead of glue, couldn't you use a couple of very small finish nails to tie
in the 90-degree corner and maybe a finish nail (or a little glue) to
toenail or tie in the end that goes against the door trim? I would probably
pre-drill to holes for the 90-degree corner to prevent splitting, and maybe
do the same on the end that attaches to the door trim.