Just got our buyer's inspection report, which shows 7.1 pC/l
average radon level during 48-hour test. The house is a
ranch, built on a slab (no crawl space, no basement).
Remediation contractor will test for radon after installing
his stuff. He's willing to test before at extra cost, but
cautioned us that if his results are substantially different
than those of the inspector, we just get into a stand-off as
to whose test is right.

Anybody heard of high radon in a ranch?

On 6/26/2012 6:10 PM, Bryce wrote:
Just got our buyer's inspection report, which shows 7.1 pC/l
average radon level during 48-hour test. The house is a
ranch, built on a slab (no crawl space, no basement).
Remediation contractor will test for radon after installing
his stuff. He's willing to test before at extra cost, but
cautioned us that if his results are substantially different
than those of the inspector, we just get into a stand-off as
to whose test is right.

Anybody heard of high radon in a ranch?

Nothing says there can't be high radon in any style construction; it
could be in the aggregate in the slab, or maybe it's brick and it's the
culprit--who knows? Then again, is the test performed reliable or are
the inspector/remediator/realtor in cahoots?

There are typical soil concentration maps at the EPA radon site iirc;
you could at least see if the area you're in tests high or not.

I've always felt that it is all a tempest in a teapot for the most part
unless it were _extremely_ high and never ventilated the house, etc., ...

--

Believe the guy who has no financial interest in your radon level.

And, do some internet research.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Bryce" wrote in message
...
Just got our buyer's inspection report, which shows 7.1 pC/l
average radon level during 48-hour test. The house is a
ranch, built on a slab (no crawl space, no basement).
Remediation contractor will test for radon after installing
his stuff. He's willing to test before at extra cost, but
cautioned us that if his results are substantially different
than those of the inspector, we just get into a stand-off as
to whose test is right.

Anybody heard of high radon in a ranch?

Bryce wrote:
Just got our buyer's inspection report, which shows 7.1 pC/l
average radon level during 48-hour test. The house is a
ranch, built on a slab (no crawl space, no basement).
Remediation contractor will test for radon after installing
his stuff. He's willing to test before at extra cost, but
cautioned us that if his results are substantially different
than those of the inspector, we just get into a stand-off as
to whose test is right.

Anybody heard of high radon in a ranch?

Me, but I got a basement. The stuff under your house is likely completely
different than mine, and I would expect a high water table in your area.
Near the lake ?
I'm near Pittsburgh in the hilly south east. I'm on top of a hill. My radon
level this time a year is ok. From October to sometime in April, my levels
can peak well over 20, maybe over 30. When I moved in I thought I was good
to go. When levels shot up over 20 , I immediately installed a temporary
system. That helped a good bit. Just drilled holes in concrete, blew out,
glued PVC pipe to cement, to fan, out backyard. I have a better permanent
system now. Generally, summer months produce less radon. Day to day, month
to month, atmospheric pressure, rain, all affect readings.

If your slab can be dug under, an external system would seem easier to
build.
A radon monitor can be bought at a price reasonable, considering overall
costs. About $130-140.

Greg

On Jun 26, 6:46*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Believe the guy who has no financial interest in your radon level.

And, do some internet research.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Bryce" wrote in message

...
Just got our buyer's inspection report, which shows 7.1 pC/l
average radon level during 48-hour test. The house is a
ranch, built on a slab (no crawl space, no basement).
Remediation contractor will test for radon after installing
his stuff. He's willing to test before at extra cost, but
cautioned us that if his results are substantially different
than those of the inspector, we just get into a stand-off as
to whose test is right.

Anybody heard of high radon in a ranch?

Tell us how the original test was performed, there are as many ways to
do them wrong as there are to do them right.

Are there ANY penetrations into the slab, like for water or heating/
cooling pipes or hot/cold air heating ducts, anything at all???

On Tue, 26 Jun 2012 19:10:43 -0400, Bryce wrote:

Just got our buyer's inspection report, which shows 7.1 pC/l
average radon level during 48-hour test. The house is a
ranch, built on a slab (no crawl space, no basement).
Remediation contractor will test for radon after installing
his stuff. He's willing to test before at extra cost, but
cautioned us that if his results are substantially different
than those of the inspector, we just get into a stand-off as
to whose test is right.

It's your money. You're right. Stand your ground and if he won't budge,
walk. At least telegraph that attitude to him. I don't care what his
"results" are. You're in the driver's seat.

Anybody heard of high radon in a ranch?

Sure. The house style has little to do with it. The chances are that it's
percolating up from the ground, though the slab. It's almost a sure thing
that a sub-slab evacuation pump will fix it. Be aware that they aren't free
to operate and they do make noise.

On Tue, 26 Jun 2012 19:10:43 -0400, Bryce wrote:

Just got our buyer's inspection report, which shows 7.1 pC/l average
radon level during 48-hour test. The house is a ranch, built on a slab
(no crawl space, no basement). Remediation contractor will test for
radon after installing his stuff. He's willing to test before at extra
cost, but cautioned us that if his results are substantially different
than those of the inspector, we just get into a stand-off as to whose
test is right.

Many remediation contractors will not test before or after. There is an
obvious conflict of interest, so they make a disinterested third party do
the testing.

Ohio may give away free tests that are read by an independent laboratory.
I know that both KY and Indiana does. Of course, if the Realtor comes by
and opens windows and doors, the test results won't mean much.

Anybody heard of high radon in a ranch?

I had high radon in my ranch, although I have a basement. The house was a
HUD repo, and I had previously tested for radon many places where I lived
with no bad results, plus HUD won't make repairs. So I skipped the pre-
purchase radon test.

The EPA recommended action level is 4.0 pCi/l, so you don't want to buy
that house until it is fixed.

A few years after I bought the house, I tested it with two free kits from
the state. My €œupstairs€� (from the basement) radon levels were about 20
pCi/l The basement was about 35 .pCi/l Post mitigation levels were about
1.5 pCi/l upstairs and 2.5 pCi/l in the basement.

Cost of the mitigation system was $780, installed by a state certified
radon mitigation contractor.

Cost of running the 65 watt fan 24 hours per day works out to $3.69
monthly cost at Louisville Gas and Electric rates.

I also bought one of these for continuous monitoring:

http://www.amazon.com/Safety-Pro-Ser...dp/B000CEAY64/
ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1340774942&sr=8-1&keywords=radon+tester

If it wraps / breaks:

http://tinyurl.com/79km7dg

--

Tony Sivori

On Jun 27, 1:34*am, Tony Sivori wrote:
On Tue, 26 Jun 2012 19:10:43 -0400, Bryce wrote:
Just got our buyer's inspection report, which shows 7.1 pC/l average
radon level during 48-hour test. The house is a ranch, built on a slab
(no crawl space, no basement). Remediation contractor will test for
radon after installing his stuff. He's willing to test before at extra
cost, but cautioned us that if his results are substantially different
than those of the inspector, we just get into a stand-off as to whose
test is right.

Many remediation contractors will not test before or after. There is an
obvious conflict of interest, so they make a disinterested third party do
the testing.

Ohio may give away free tests that are read by an independent laboratory.
I know that both KY and Indiana does. Of course, if the Realtor comes by
and opens windows and doors, the test results won't mean much.

Anybody heard of high radon in a ranch?

I had high radon in my ranch, although I have a basement. The house was a
HUD repo, and I had previously tested for radon many places where I lived
with no bad results, plus HUD won't make repairs. So I skipped the pre-
purchase radon test.

The EPA recommended action level is 4.0 pCi/l, so you don't want to buy
that house until it is fixed.

A few years after I bought the house, I tested it with two free kits from
the state. My “upstairs” (from the basement) radon levels were about 20
pCi/l The basement was about 35 .pCi/l Post mitigation levels were about
1.5 pCi/l upstairs and 2.5 pCi/l in the basement.

Cost of the mitigation system was $780, installed by a state certified
radon mitigation contractor.

Cost of running the 65 watt fan 24 hours per day works out to $3.69
monthly cost at Louisville Gas and Electric rates.

I also bought one of these for continuous monitoring:

http://www.amazon.com/Safety-Pro-Ser...dp/B000CEAY64/
ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1340774942&sr=8-1&keywords=radon+tester

If it wraps / breaks:

http://tinyurl.com/79km7dg

--

Tony Sivori


HD, Lowes, etc have DIY radon test kits for $15 or so.
You mail the sample in. Could be a cheap way to confirm
the test. AFAIK, there isn't anything sophisticated about
the testing device. It's just a canister with some absorption
material inside, like charcoal? The canister goes in the house
for X hours and the lab then uses that to do the test.

You could have radon in a house on slab. Probably more
likely in a basement, since it's deeper, more area exposed,
etc. And I would guess that remediation in a house on slab
could be more difficult/expensive.

Thanks for your comments.

We are the sellers and in a neighborhood in decline, so we
are anxious to complete the sale: tough to find buyer and we
already have a new house awaiting.

Radon test was done in the middle of the house with A/C
running. Downdraft furnace (in interior room near one end of
house) feeds conditioned air through metal ducts under the
slab, which is about 2' above grade, no crawl space. No
vents through the foundation walls. Return air to furnace
via ducts in attic. House was built in 1960.

Remediation contractor (not affiliated with inspector to our
knowledge) proposes to install suction system next to
furnace and test afterward. Cost ~$1000, "30 year guarantee"

I have a hunch that the suction will be overpowered by leaks
in the heating ducts. For sure, we will run A/C during test,
pay by credit card.

On Wed, 27 Jun 2012 10:35:36 -0400, Bryce wrote:

Thanks for your comments.

We are the sellers and in a neighborhood in decline, so we
are anxious to complete the sale: tough to find buyer and we
already have a new house awaiting.

Radon test was done in the middle of the house with A/C
running. Downdraft furnace (in interior room near one end of
house) feeds conditioned air through metal ducts under the
slab, which is about 2' above grade, no crawl space. No
vents through the foundation walls. Return air to furnace
via ducts in attic. House was built in 1960.

Remediation contractor (not affiliated with inspector to our
knowledge) proposes to install suction system next to
furnace and test afterward. Cost ~$1000, "30 year guarantee"

I have a hunch that the suction will be overpowered by leaks
in the heating ducts.

This is a good place for it. The chimney chase can then be used for the pipe,
up to the roof. The suction is from under the slab so any leaks in the
heating ducts are irrelevant.

For sure, we will run A/C during test, pay by credit card.

Paranoid is sometimes justified but this plan has a 99% success rate. Radon
remediation isn't difficult. You'll be fine.

Bryce wrote:
Thanks for your comments.

We are the sellers and in a neighborhood in decline, so we
are anxious to complete the sale: tough to find buyer and we
already have a new house awaiting.

Radon test was done in the middle of the house with A/C
running. Downdraft furnace (in interior room near one end of
house) feeds conditioned air through metal ducts under the
slab, which is about 2' above grade, no crawl space. No
vents through the foundation walls. Return air to furnace
via ducts in attic. House was built in 1960.

Remediation contractor (not affiliated with inspector to our
knowledge) proposes to install suction system next to
furnace and test afterward. Cost ~$1000, "30 year guarantee"

I have a hunch that the suction will be overpowered by leaks
in the heating ducts. For sure, we will run A/C during test,
pay by credit card.

You never answered my question. If water ever comes up to slab, you also
need a sump pump, and that makes it tricky.

Greg

On Jun 27, 12:57*pm, gregz wrote:
Bryce wrote:
Thanks for your comments.

We are the sellers and in a neighborhood in decline, so we
are anxious to complete the sale: tough to find buyer and we
already have a new house awaiting.

Radon test was done in the middle of the house with A/C
running. Downdraft furnace (in interior room near one end of
house) feeds conditioned air through metal ducts under the
slab, which is about 2' above grade, no crawl space. No
vents through the foundation walls. Return air to furnace
via ducts in attic. House was built in 1960.

Remediation contractor (not affiliated with inspector to our
knowledge) proposes to install suction system next to
furnace and test afterward. Cost ~$1000, "30 year guarantee"

I have a hunch that the suction will be overpowered by leaks
in the heating ducts. For sure, we will run A/C during test,
pay by credit card.

You never answered my question. If water ever comes up to slab, you also
need a sump pump, and that makes it tricky.

Greg

radon remediation in a home with a underground sump pump is deade
easy..... and done all the time.

just connect the radon vent fan to the interior french drain, and seal
the sump pump so a minor vacuumn can be created.....

radon fans get installed above ground level so they cant get flooded
and are designed to exhaust wet moist air

gregz wrote:

Bryce wrote:
Thanks for your comments.

We are the sellers and in a neighborhood in decline, so
we are anxious to complete the sale: tough to find buyer
and we already have a new house awaiting.

Radon test was done in the middle of the house with A/C
running. Downdraft furnace (in interior room near one end
of house) feeds conditioned air through metal ducts under
the slab, which is about 2' above grade, no crawl space.
No vents through the foundation walls. Return air to
furnace via ducts in attic. House was built in 1960.

Remediation contractor (not affiliated with inspector to
our knowledge) proposes to install suction system next to
furnace and test afterward. Cost ~$1000, "30 year
guarantee"

I have a hunch that the suction will be overpowered by
leaks in the heating ducts. For sure, we will run A/C
during test, pay by credit card.

You never answered my question. If water ever comes up to
slab, you also need a sump pump, and that makes it tricky.

Greg

Sorry!

Slab is about 2' above grade. If water gets that high, we
have a lot of problems! We've never had water problems in 17
years and this summer is the dryest in memory.

On Jun 27, 5:38*pm, Bryce wrote:
gregz wrote:
Bryce wrote:
Thanks for your comments.

We are the sellers and in a neighborhood in decline, so
we are anxious to complete the sale: tough to find buyer
and we already have a new house awaiting.

Radon test was done in the middle of the house with A/C
running. Downdraft furnace (in interior room near one end
of house) feeds conditioned air through metal ducts under
the slab, which is about 2' above grade, no crawl space.
No vents through the foundation walls. Return air to
furnace via ducts in attic. House was built in 1960.

Remediation contractor (not affiliated with inspector to
our knowledge) proposes to install suction system next to
furnace and test afterward. Cost ~$1000, "30 year
guarantee"

I have a hunch that the suction will be overpowered by
leaks in the heating ducts. For sure, we will run A/C
during test, pay by credit card.

You never answered my question. If water ever comes up to
slab, you also need a sump pump, and that makes it tricky.

Greg

Sorry!

Slab is about 2' above grade. If water gets that high, we
have a lot of problems! We've never had water problems in 17
years and this summer is the dryest in memory.

I have often wondered if you owned a high radon home that sat at least
a couple feet above street level.....

You could combine a interior french drain , with a outlet at street
level to daylight and perhaps a fresh air intake at the far end of the
french drain, making not only a passive radon gas exhaust but also a
passive interior french drain? radon gas is heavier than air, and
gravity tends to be highlly reliable for water. no sump pump or power
needed. I came up with this idea years ago when a big storm knocked
out power, and sump systems overflowed....

i started some of this years ago but divorce and life got in the way

On Jun 27, 7:50*pm, bob haller wrote:
On Jun 27, 5:38*pm, Bryce wrote:





gregz wrote:
Bryce wrote:
Thanks for your comments.

We are the sellers and in a neighborhood in decline, so
we are anxious to complete the sale: tough to find buyer
and we already have a new house awaiting.

Radon test was done in the middle of the house with A/C
running. Downdraft furnace (in interior room near one end
of house) feeds conditioned air through metal ducts under
the slab, which is about 2' above grade, no crawl space.
No vents through the foundation walls. Return air to
furnace via ducts in attic. House was built in 1960.

Remediation contractor (not affiliated with inspector to
our knowledge) proposes to install suction system next to
furnace and test afterward. Cost ~$1000, "30 year
guarantee"

I have a hunch that the suction will be overpowered by
leaks in the heating ducts. For sure, we will run A/C
during test, pay by credit card.

You never answered my question. If water ever comes up to
slab, you also need a sump pump, and that makes it tricky.

Greg

Sorry!

Slab is about 2' above grade. If water gets that high, we
have a lot of problems! We've never had water problems in 17
years and this summer is the dryest in memory.

I have often wondered if you owned a high radon home that sat at least
a couple feet above street level.....

You could combine a interior french drain , with a outlet at street
level to daylight and perhaps a fresh air intake at the far end of the
french drain, making not only a passive radon gas exhaust but also a
passive interior french drain? radon gas is heavier than air, and
gravity tends to be highlly reliable for water. no sump pump or power
needed. I came up with this idea years ago when a big storm knocked
out power, and sump systems overflowed....

i started some of this years ago but divorce and life got in the way- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I put a 4-inch duct booster fan in a 4-inch dryer vent pipe and
connected that from the top of my sump pump cover to an outside wall
just above the concrete foundation. It basically gives a slight
negative pressure to the drains around and under the house and any
radon that comes up thru the ground is exhausted to the outdoors in a
location where no one ever goes so I don't worry about the low
physical level of the output pipe.