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Default How to replace water pipe

Ook wrote:
On May 26, 6:33 pm, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Sat, 26 May 2012 17:33:12 -0700 (PDT), Ook
wrote:



Are there problems caused by using plastic instead of metal? Copper
isn't cheap, but it's only a 25 foot run, and I might have a few
pieces left over from when I re-plumbed my house a few years ago. I
know how to work with copper, and probably have most of the pieces
parts already. Is there any particular grade of copper that should
be used for underground plumbing? The more I think about it, the
more I like the idea of replacing the run from meter to house with
copper.


http://www.copper.org/publications/p...e_handbook.pdf
Underground Water Services—
Use Type M hard for straight lengths
joined with fittings, and Type L soft
where coils are more convenient.

Water Distribution Systems—
Use Type M for above and below ground.

Chilled Water Mains—Use Type
M for all sizes.

Drainage and Vent Systems—
Use Type DWV for above- and belowground
waste, soil and vent lines, roof
and building drains and sewers.


Well that is pretty straight forward - type M for above and below
ground. I have a couple of lengths of type M in my basement, maybe
enough to do this job. This leak is costing me $5 a day in water down
the toilet, and I'm highly motivated to stop the leak, even if it
means bypassing all the old pipe.


Personally, I went with the heavier copper just for the extra life it might give
me. City of Seattle recommended copper.


 
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