Ook wrote:
On May 26, 6:33 pm, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Sat, 26 May 2012 17:33:12 -0700 (PDT), Ook
wrote:



Are there problems caused by using plastic instead of metal? Copper
isn't cheap, but it's only a 25 foot run, and I might have a few
pieces left over from when I re-plumbed my house a few years ago. I
know how to work with copper, and probably have most of the pieces
parts already. Is there any particular grade of copper that should
be used for underground plumbing? The more I think about it, the
more I like the idea of replacing the run from meter to house with
copper.

http://www.copper.org/publications/p...e_handbook.pdf
Underground Water Services—
Use Type M hard for straight lengths
joined with fittings, and Type L soft
where coils are more convenient.

Water Distribution Systems—
Use Type M for above and below ground.

Chilled Water Mains—Use Type
M for all sizes.

Drainage and Vent Systems—
Use Type DWV for above- and belowground
waste, soil and vent lines, roof
and building drains and sewers.

Well that is pretty straight forward - type M for above and below
ground. I have a couple of lengths of type M in my basement, maybe
enough to do this job. This leak is costing me $5 a day in water down
the toilet, and I'm highly motivated to stop the leak, even if it
means bypassing all the old pipe.

Personally, I went with the heavier copper just for the extra life it might give
me. City of Seattle recommended copper.

On May 26, 7:35*pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Ook wrote:
On May 26, 6:33 pm, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Sat, 26 May 2012 17:33:12 -0700 (PDT), Ook
wrote:

Are there problems caused by using plastic instead of metal? Copper
isn't cheap, but it's only a 25 foot run, and I might have a few
pieces left over from when I re-plumbed my house a few years ago. I
know how to work with copper, and probably have most of the pieces
parts already. Is there any particular grade of copper that should
be used for underground plumbing? The more I think about it, the
more I like the idea of replacing the run from meter to house with
copper.

http://www.copper.org/publications/p...e_handbook.pdf
Underground Water Services—
Use Type M hard for straight lengths
joined with fittings, and Type L soft
where coils are more convenient.

Water Distribution Systems—
Use Type M for above and below ground.

Chilled Water Mains—Use Type
M for all sizes.

Drainage and Vent Systems—
Use Type DWV for above- and belowground
waste, soil and vent lines, roof
and building drains and sewers.

Well that is pretty straight forward - type M for above and below
ground. I have a couple of lengths of type M in my basement, maybe
enough to do this job. This leak is costing me $5 a day in water down
the toilet, and I'm highly motivated to stop the leak, even if it
means bypassing all the old pipe.

Personally, I went with the heavier copper just for the extra life it might give
me. City of Seattle recommended copper.

That is the type M, right?

Ook wrote:
On May 26, 7:35 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Ook wrote:
On May 26, 6:33 pm, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Sat, 26 May 2012 17:33:12 -0700 (PDT), Ook
wrote:

Are there problems caused by using plastic instead of metal?
Copper isn't cheap, but it's only a 25 foot run, and I might have
a few pieces left over from when I re-plumbed my house a few
years ago. I know how to work with copper, and probably have most
of the pieces parts already. Is there any particular grade of
copper that should be used for underground plumbing? The more I
think about it, the more I like the idea of replacing the run
from meter to house with copper.

http://www.copper.org/publications/p...e_handbook.pdf
Underground Water Services—
Use Type M hard for straight lengths
joined with fittings, and Type L soft
where coils are more convenient.

Water Distribution Systems—
Use Type M for above and below ground.

Chilled Water Mains—Use Type
M for all sizes.

Drainage and Vent Systems—
Use Type DWV for above- and belowground
waste, soil and vent lines, roof
and building drains and sewers.

Well that is pretty straight forward - type M for above and below
ground. I have a couple of lengths of type M in my basement, maybe
enough to do this job. This leak is costing me $5 a day in water
down the toilet, and I'm highly motivated to stop the leak, even if
it means bypassing all the old pipe.

Personally, I went with the heavier copper just for the extra life
it might give me. City of Seattle recommended copper.

That is the type M, right?

IIRC, "L" is heavier than "M".

On 5/27/2012 1:13 AM, Bob F wrote:
Ook wrote:
On May 26, 7:35 pm, "Bob wrote:
Ook wrote:
On May 26, 6:33 pm, Ed wrote:
On Sat, 26 May 2012 17:33:12 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

Are there problems caused by using plastic instead of metal?
Copper isn't cheap, but it's only a 25 foot run, and I might have
a few pieces left over from when I re-plumbed my house a few
years ago. I know how to work with copper, and probably have most
of the pieces parts already. Is there any particular grade of
copper that should be used for underground plumbing? The more I
think about it, the more I like the idea of replacing the run
from meter to house with copper.

http://www.copper.org/publications/p...e_handbook.pdf
Underground Water Services—
Use Type M hard for straight lengths
joined with fittings, and Type L soft
where coils are more convenient.

Water Distribution Systems—
Use Type M for above and below ground.

Chilled Water Mains—Use Type
M for all sizes.

Drainage and Vent Systems—
Use Type DWV for above- and belowground
waste, soil and vent lines, roof
and building drains and sewers.

Well that is pretty straight forward - type M for above and below
ground. I have a couple of lengths of type M in my basement, maybe
enough to do this job. This leak is costing me $5 a day in water
down the toilet, and I'm highly motivated to stop the leak, even if
it means bypassing all the old pipe.

Personally, I went with the heavier copper just for the extra life
it might give me. City of Seattle recommended copper.

That is the type M, right?

IIRC, "L" is heavier than "M".


Often type K is required for the outside buried run.

On Sun, 27 May 2012 07:27:39 -0400, George
wrote:




http://www.copper.org/publications/p...e_handbook.pdf
Underground Water Services—
Use Type M hard for straight lengths


That is the type M, right?

IIRC, "L" is heavier than "M".


Often type K is required for the outside buried run.

Possible, check your local codes.

Types K, L, M, DWV and
Medical Gas tube are designated by
ASTM standard sizes, with the actual
outside diameter always 1/8-inch larger
than the standard size designation. Each
type represents a series of sizes with
different wall thicknesses. Type K tube
has thicker walls than Type L tube, and
Type L walls are thicker than Type M,
for any given diameter. All inside
diameters depend on tube size and wall
thickness.

On 5/26/2012 9:57 PM, Ook wrote:
On May 26, 7:35 pm, "Bob wrote:
Ook wrote:
On May 26, 6:33 pm, Ed wrote:
On Sat, 26 May 2012 17:33:12 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

Are there problems caused by using plastic instead of metal? Copper
isn't cheap, but it's only a 25 foot run, and I might have a few
pieces left over from when I re-plumbed my house a few years ago. I
know how to work with copper, and probably have most of the pieces
parts already. Is there any particular grade of copper that should
be used for underground plumbing? The more I think about it, the
more I like the idea of replacing the run from meter to house with
copper.

http://www.copper.org/publications/p...e_handbook.pdf
Underground Water Services—
Use Type M hard for straight lengths
joined with fittings, and Type L soft
where coils are more convenient.

Water Distribution Systems—
Use Type M for above and below ground.

Chilled Water Mains—Use Type
M for all sizes.

Drainage and Vent Systems—
Use Type DWV for above- and belowground
waste, soil and vent lines, roof
and building drains and sewers.

Well that is pretty straight forward - type M for above and below
ground. I have a couple of lengths of type M in my basement, maybe
enough to do this job. This leak is costing me $5 a day in water down
the toilet, and I'm highly motivated to stop the leak, even if it
means bypassing all the old pipe.

Personally, I went with the heavier copper just for the extra life it might give
me. City of Seattle recommended copper.

That is the type M, right?

I'm not sure which type is which, but you'll want the 3/4" soft variety
for this application. It comes on a roll.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Soft on a roll is K copper, if memory serves.

Me, I'd want the rigid stuff with the thicker wall.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...

Personally, I went with the heavier copper just for the extra life it
might give
me. City of Seattle recommended copper.

That is the type M, right?

I'm not sure which type is which, but you'll want the 3/4" soft variety
for this application. It comes on a roll.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Mon, 28 May 2012 20:32:38 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Soft on a roll is K copper, if memory serves.

Me, I'd want the rigid stuff with the thicker wall.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
Rigid is not approved for underground as far as I know. Could be wrong
- but I'd be wanting the flexible myself.

"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...

Personally, I went with the heavier copper just for the extra life it
might give
me. City of Seattle recommended copper.

That is the type M, right?

I'm not sure which type is which, but you'll want the 3/4" soft variety
for this application. It comes on a roll.

On 5/28/2012 9:53 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 28 May 2012 20:32:38 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Soft on a roll is K copper, if memory serves.

Me, I'd want the rigid stuff with the thicker wall.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
Rigid is not approved for underground as far as I know. Could be wrong
- but I'd be wanting the flexible myself.

Me too, our water supplier only accepts type K soft tubing.



"Steve wrote in message
...

Personally, I went with the heavier copper just for the extra life it
might give
me. City of Seattle recommended copper.

That is the type M, right?

I'm not sure which type is which, but you'll want the 3/4" soft variety
for this application. It comes on a roll.

On Mon, 28 May 2012 20:32:38 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Soft on a roll is K copper, if memory serves.

Me, I'd want the rigid stuff with the thicker wall.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...

Personally, I went with the heavier copper just for the extra life it
might give
me. City of Seattle recommended copper.

That is the type M, right?

I'm not sure which type is which, but you'll want the 3/4" soft variety
for this application. It comes on a roll.

Think about the ground shifting, even when being backfilled.

On 5/28/2012 11:19 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Mon, 28 May 2012 20:32:38 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Soft on a roll is K copper, if memory serves.

Me, I'd want the rigid stuff with the thicker wall.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Steve wrote in message
...

Personally, I went with the heavier copper just for the extra life it
might give
me. City of Seattle recommended copper.

That is the type M, right?

I'm not sure which type is which, but you'll want the 3/4" soft variety
for this application. It comes on a roll.

Think about the ground shifting, even when being backfilled.

yes, a good reason to have the soft copper set in a wide trench in an
"S" fashion. Plenty o' flex room.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email