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George George is offline
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Default How to replace water pipe

On 5/27/2012 1:13 AM, Bob F wrote:
Ook wrote:
On May 26, 7:35 pm, "Bob wrote:
Ook wrote:
On May 26, 6:33 pm, Ed wrote:
On Sat, 26 May 2012 17:33:12 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

Are there problems caused by using plastic instead of metal?
Copper isn't cheap, but it's only a 25 foot run, and I might have
a few pieces left over from when I re-plumbed my house a few
years ago. I know how to work with copper, and probably have most
of the pieces parts already. Is there any particular grade of
copper that should be used for underground plumbing? The more I
think about it, the more I like the idea of replacing the run
from meter to house with copper.

http://www.copper.org/publications/p...e_handbook.pdf
Underground Water Services—
Use Type M hard for straight lengths
joined with fittings, and Type L soft
where coils are more convenient.

Water Distribution Systems—
Use Type M for above and below ground.

Chilled Water Mains—Use Type
M for all sizes.

Drainage and Vent Systems—
Use Type DWV for above- and belowground
waste, soil and vent lines, roof
and building drains and sewers.

Well that is pretty straight forward - type M for above and below
ground. I have a couple of lengths of type M in my basement, maybe
enough to do this job. This leak is costing me $5 a day in water
down the toilet, and I'm highly motivated to stop the leak, even if
it means bypassing all the old pipe.

Personally, I went with the heavier copper just for the extra life
it might give me. City of Seattle recommended copper.


That is the type M, right?


IIRC, "L" is heavier than "M".


Often type K is required for the outside buried run.