Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

The only thing I know, is that the washing machine hose has to go over the
level of the washer basket. The discharg hose hooks on the back with a
clamp. The hose is maybe three feet long, and ends with upside down J. The
loop part of the J needs to be higher than the top of the basket.

So, you've got to get various fittings, and make a rigid tube that goes up
from the floor, to about the level of the top of the washing machine. Hard
to explain in text.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Robert Macy" wrote in message
...
Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

On Mar 6, 9:14*am, Robert Macy wrote:
Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

It's likely the plug is there as a code required clean-out,
so you can't use it, now would you want to.
Next, assuming the existing is just a vertical waste line
with no trap, then you need a trap. And behind that trap
you need a vent line. That is usually the real fly in the ointment
because unless there is one you can legitimately tie
into, you normally would need to run one all the way
out the roof. If that isn't feasible, as is often the case
you can use an air admittance valve. That's basicly
a check valve that allows air into the drain system, but
won't let water flow out. Then you need a vertical pipe
up to the height of the washer.

So you have to cut out a section of the existing waste
line. Then you'll add in sequence:

sanitary tee fitting in existing line
air admittance valve or vent line
trap
pipe up to height of top of washer

To glue back into the existing pipe you'll need
REPAIR couplings. Those look like any other
coupling except they don't have a stop ridge in
the center. So, you can slide them all the way
on both ends of the new piece then move them
back over the ends of the existing pipe. A little
tricky and you have to be quick as the glue is
setting. Alternative is to use a Fernco type on
one end.

Also make sure you use the right materials. If
existing line is ABS, use that. If it's PVC use that.
You can't join PVC to ABS by gluing, it's not
permitted by code, at least not here. You can
use Fernco type couplings, but if it's cheaper and
more reliable to stick with glue where possible.

On Mar 6, 7:23*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
The only thing I know, is that the washing machine hose has to go over the
level of the washer basket. The discharg hose hooks on the back with a
clamp. The hose is maybe three feet long, and ends with upside down J. The
loop part of the J needs to be higher than the top of the basket.

So, you've got to get various fittings, and make a rigid tube that goes up
from the floor, to about the level of the top of the washing machine. Hard
to explain in text.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Robert Macy" wrote in message

...
Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

My last installation of sticking the J-tube down a very long chrome
drain pipe held up against the wall like that yielded 'squirting' out
the tiny vent slot! from time to time.

I was kind of hoping for a list from HD, and some experienced, "Watch
out for...."'s.

On Mar 6, 8:17*am, "
wrote:
On Mar 6, 9:14*am, Robert Macy wrote:





Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

It's likely the plug is there as a code required clean-out,
so you can't use it, now would you want to.
Next, assuming the existing is just a vertical waste line
with no trap, then you need a trap. *And behind that trap
you need a vent line. *That is usually the real fly in the ointment
because unless there is one you can legitimately tie
into, you normally would need to run one all the way
out the roof. * If that isn't feasible, as is often the case
you can use an air admittance valve. *That's basicly
a check valve that allows air into the drain system, but
won't let water flow out. *Then you need a vertical pipe
up to the height of the washer.

So you have to cut out a section of the existing waste
line. *Then you'll add in sequence:

sanitary tee fitting in existing line
air admittance valve or vent line
trap
pipe up to height of top of washer

To glue back into the existing pipe you'll need
REPAIR couplings. *Those look like any other
coupling except they don't have a stop ridge in
the center. *So, you can slide them all the way
on both ends of the new piece then move them
back over the ends of the existing pipe. *A little
tricky and you have to be quick as the glue is
setting. * Alternative is to use a Fernco type on
one end.

Also make sure you use the right materials. *If
existing line is ABS, use that. *If it's PVC use that.
You can't join PVC to ABS by gluing, it's not
permitted by code, at least not here. *You can
use Fernco type couplings, but if it's cheaper and
more reliable to stick with glue where possible.

This is new construction with everything else installed - the hot/cold
pair, 6 inch vent pipe to outside, 220Vac, etc

The drain pipe looks like a 'hurry up and make it look finished so we
can get out of here' cover.

Don't think it's for cleanout since it is a T junction. and cleanouts
tend to be 45 angles elsewhere.

On Mar 7, 8:13*am, Robert Macy wrote:
On Mar 6, 8:17*am, "
wrote:





On Mar 6, 9:14*am, Robert Macy wrote:

Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

It's likely the plug is there as a code required clean-out,
so you can't use it, now would you want to.
Next, assuming the existing is just a vertical waste line
with no trap, then you need a trap. *And behind that trap
you need a vent line. *That is usually the real fly in the ointment
because unless there is one you can legitimately tie
into, you normally would need to run one all the way
out the roof. * If that isn't feasible, as is often the case
you can use an air admittance valve. *That's basicly
a check valve that allows air into the drain system, but
won't let water flow out. *Then you need a vertical pipe
up to the height of the washer.

So you have to cut out a section of the existing waste
line. *Then you'll add in sequence:

sanitary tee fitting in existing line
air admittance valve or vent line
trap
pipe up to height of top of washer

To glue back into the existing pipe you'll need
REPAIR couplings. *Those look like any other
coupling except they don't have a stop ridge in
the center. *So, you can slide them all the way
on both ends of the new piece then move them
back over the ends of the existing pipe. *A little
tricky and you have to be quick as the glue is
setting. * Alternative is to use a Fernco type on
one end.

Also make sure you use the right materials. *If
existing line is ABS, use that. *If it's PVC use that.
You can't join PVC to ABS by gluing, it's not
permitted by code, at least not here. *You can
use Fernco type couplings, but if it's cheaper and
more reliable to stick with glue where possible.

This is new construction with everything else installed - the hot/cold
pair, 6 inch vent pipe to outside, 220Vac, etc

The drain pipe looks like a 'hurry up and make it look finished so we
can get out of here' cover.

Don't think it's for cleanout since it is a T junction. and cleanouts
tend to be 45 angles elsewhere.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That's a very strange way to leave it and would not seem to have
anything to do with hurrying up. If it was installed correcly with
a trap and vent, then all that was needed was to glue in about a
4ft section of pipe instead of that fitting and plug. Is it visible
from
the basement to check for a trap? Sounds like it's probably there,
but can't hurt to check if possible. If you have a trap, then all
you need is a piece of 1 1/2" or 2" pipe up to the level of the top of
the
washer and a male adapter that's the same size as the plug to
glue on the end. Use teflon tape on the threads.

On Mar 7, 8:37*am, "
wrote:
On Mar 7, 8:13*am, Robert Macy wrote:





On Mar 6, 8:17*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 6, 9:14*am, Robert Macy wrote:

Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

It's likely the plug is there as a code required clean-out,
so you can't use it, now would you want to.
Next, assuming the existing is just a vertical waste line
with no trap, then you need a trap. *And behind that trap
you need a vent line. *That is usually the real fly in the ointment
because unless there is one you can legitimately tie
into, you normally would need to run one all the way
out the roof. * If that isn't feasible, as is often the case
you can use an air admittance valve. *That's basicly
a check valve that allows air into the drain system, but
won't let water flow out. *Then you need a vertical pipe
up to the height of the washer.

So you have to cut out a section of the existing waste
line. *Then you'll add in sequence:

sanitary tee fitting in existing line
air admittance valve or vent line
trap
pipe up to height of top of washer

To glue back into the existing pipe you'll need
REPAIR couplings. *Those look like any other
coupling except they don't have a stop ridge in
the center. *So, you can slide them all the way
on both ends of the new piece then move them
back over the ends of the existing pipe. *A little
tricky and you have to be quick as the glue is
setting. * Alternative is to use a Fernco type on
one end.

Also make sure you use the right materials. *If
existing line is ABS, use that. *If it's PVC use that.
You can't join PVC to ABS by gluing, it's not
permitted by code, at least not here. *You can
use Fernco type couplings, but if it's cheaper and
more reliable to stick with glue where possible.

This is new construction with everything else installed - the hot/cold
pair, 6 inch vent pipe to outside, 220Vac, etc

The drain pipe looks like a 'hurry up and make it look finished so we
can get out of here' cover.

Don't think it's for cleanout since it is a T junction. and cleanouts
tend to be 45 angles elsewhere.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That's a very strange way to leave it and would not seem to have
anything to do with hurrying up. * If it was installed correcly with
a trap and vent, then all that was needed was to glue in about a
4ft section of pipe instead of that fitting and plug. * Is it visible
from
the basement to check for a trap? *Sounds like it's probably there,
but can't hurt to check if possible. * If you have a trap, then all
you need is a piece of 1 1/2" or 2" pipe up to the level of the top of
the
washer and a male adapter that's the same size as the plug to
glue on the end. *Use teflon tape on the threads.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

After posting the above, I took another look and this part is
puzzling:

"Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2
1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet? "

How can you see it and access it if the plug terminating what's
there is inside the wall at floor level? Perhaps some pics would
help.

In the new construction in these parts, NJ, plumbers
use one of the washer connection box units where the
drain and water supply valves terminate in a recessed box
inside the wall at a height near the top of the washer.

On Mar 7, 8:14*am, "
wrote:
On Mar 7, 8:37*am, "
wrote:





On Mar 7, 8:13*am, Robert Macy wrote:

On Mar 6, 8:17*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 6, 9:14*am, Robert Macy wrote:

Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

It's likely the plug is there as a code required clean-out,
so you can't use it, now would you want to.
Next, assuming the existing is just a vertical waste line
with no trap, then you need a trap. *And behind that trap
you need a vent line. *That is usually the real fly in the ointment
because unless there is one you can legitimately tie
into, you normally would need to run one all the way
out the roof. * If that isn't feasible, as is often the case
you can use an air admittance valve. *That's basicly
a check valve that allows air into the drain system, but
won't let water flow out. *Then you need a vertical pipe
up to the height of the washer.

So you have to cut out a section of the existing waste
line. *Then you'll add in sequence:

sanitary tee fitting in existing line
air admittance valve or vent line
trap
pipe up to height of top of washer

To glue back into the existing pipe you'll need
REPAIR couplings. *Those look like any other
coupling except they don't have a stop ridge in
the center. *So, you can slide them all the way
on both ends of the new piece then move them
back over the ends of the existing pipe. *A little
tricky and you have to be quick as the glue is
setting. * Alternative is to use a Fernco type on
one end.

Also make sure you use the right materials. *If
existing line is ABS, use that. *If it's PVC use that.
You can't join PVC to ABS by gluing, it's not
permitted by code, at least not here. *You can
use Fernco type couplings, but if it's cheaper and
more reliable to stick with glue where possible.

This is new construction with everything else installed - the hot/cold
pair, 6 inch vent pipe to outside, 220Vac, etc

The drain pipe looks like a 'hurry up and make it look finished so we
can get out of here' cover.

Don't think it's for cleanout since it is a T junction. and cleanouts
tend to be 45 angles elsewhere.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That's a very strange way to leave it and would not seem to have
anything to do with hurrying up. * If it was installed correcly with
a trap and vent, then all that was needed was to glue in about a
4ft section of pipe instead of that fitting and plug. * Is it visible
from
the basement to check for a trap? *Sounds like it's probably there,
but can't hurt to check if possible. * If you have a trap, then all
you need is a piece of 1 1/2" or 2" pipe up to the level of the top of
the
washer and a male adapter that's the same size as the plug to
glue on the end. *Use teflon tape on the threads.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

After posting the above, I took another look and this part is
puzzling:

"Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2
1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet? "

How can you see it and access it if the plug terminating what's
there is inside the wall at floor level? *Perhaps some pics would
help.

In the new construction in these parts, NJ, plumbers
use one of the washer connection box units where the
drain and water supply valves terminate in a recessed box
inside the wall at a height near the top of the washer.

thanks for that one, the box is there for the hot/cold, and saw a
tube, no idea what that was for. Looks like a flexible 3/4 inch OD
creasible type.

I'll see if I can find out whether a trap is in there

there's an 'unfinished hole in the wall to view its contents. A
temporary cosmetic cover was over the hole.

On Mar 7, 3:58*pm, Robert Macy wrote:
On Mar 7, 8:14*am, "
wrote:





On Mar 7, 8:37*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 7, 8:13*am, Robert Macy wrote:

On Mar 6, 8:17*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 6, 9:14*am, Robert Macy wrote:

Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

It's likely the plug is there as a code required clean-out,
so you can't use it, now would you want to.
Next, assuming the existing is just a vertical waste line
with no trap, then you need a trap. *And behind that trap
you need a vent line. *That is usually the real fly in the ointment
because unless there is one you can legitimately tie
into, you normally would need to run one all the way
out the roof. * If that isn't feasible, as is often the case
you can use an air admittance valve. *That's basicly
a check valve that allows air into the drain system, but
won't let water flow out. *Then you need a vertical pipe
up to the height of the washer.

So you have to cut out a section of the existing waste
line. *Then you'll add in sequence:

sanitary tee fitting in existing line
air admittance valve or vent line
trap
pipe up to height of top of washer

To glue back into the existing pipe you'll need
REPAIR couplings. *Those look like any other
coupling except they don't have a stop ridge in
the center. *So, you can slide them all the way
on both ends of the new piece then move them
back over the ends of the existing pipe. *A little
tricky and you have to be quick as the glue is
setting. * Alternative is to use a Fernco type on
one end.

Also make sure you use the right materials. *If
existing line is ABS, use that. *If it's PVC use that.
You can't join PVC to ABS by gluing, it's not
permitted by code, at least not here. *You can
use Fernco type couplings, but if it's cheaper and
more reliable to stick with glue where possible.

This is new construction with everything else installed - the hot/cold
pair, 6 inch vent pipe to outside, 220Vac, etc

The drain pipe looks like a 'hurry up and make it look finished so we
can get out of here' cover.

Don't think it's for cleanout since it is a T junction. and cleanouts
tend to be 45 angles elsewhere.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That's a very strange way to leave it and would not seem to have
anything to do with hurrying up. * If it was installed correcly with
a trap and vent, then all that was needed was to glue in about a
4ft section of pipe instead of that fitting and plug. * Is it visible
from
the basement to check for a trap? *Sounds like it's probably there,
but can't hurt to check if possible. * If you have a trap, then all
you need is a piece of 1 1/2" or 2" pipe up to the level of the top of
the
washer and a male adapter that's the same size as the plug to
glue on the end. *Use teflon tape on the threads.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

After posting the above, I took another look and this part is
puzzling:

"Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2
1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet? "

How can you see it and access it if the plug terminating what's
there is inside the wall at floor level? *Perhaps some pics would
help.

In the new construction in these parts, NJ, plumbers
use one of the washer connection box units where the
drain and water supply valves terminate in a recessed box
inside the wall at a height near the top of the washer.

thanks for that one, the box is there for the hot/cold, and saw a
tube, no idea what that was for. *Looks like a flexible 3/4 inch OD
creasible type.

That doesn't sound right either. Here's a link to a
typical washer box that supports 1.5" or 2" drain:

http://www.hardwareandtools.com/Oate...gle%20Products

If the link doesn't work. just google "washer connection box". I
don't know what you're looking at that's 3/4",
but it sounds more like the hose that comes with the
washer than the drain that should be in the house for
the washer. The drain should be 1 1/2" or 2".





I'll see if I can find out whether a trap is in there

there's an 'unfinished hole in the wall to view its contents. *A
temporary cosmetic cover was over the hole.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

On Wed, 7 Mar 2012 12:58:47 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy
wrote:

thanks for that one, the box is there for the hot/cold, and saw a
tube, no idea what that was for. Looks like a flexible 3/4 inch OD
creasible type.

I'll see if I can find out whether a trap is in there

there's an 'unfinished hole in the wall to view its contents. A
temporary cosmetic cover was over the hole.

Could you post a picture or pictures to some web site so some of us
could get a better idea of what you have?

On Mar 7, 11:07*pm, Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Wed, 7 Mar 2012 12:58:47 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy

wrote:
thanks for that one, the box is there for the hot/cold, and saw a
tube, no idea what that was for. *Looks like a flexible 3/4 inch OD
creasible type.

I'll see if I can find out whether a trap is in there

there's an 'unfinished hole in the wall to view its contents. *A
temporary cosmetic cover was over the hole.

Could you post a picture or pictures to some web site so some of us
could get a better idea of what you have?

where, how?

On Mar 7, 5:23*pm, "
wrote:
On Mar 7, 3:58*pm, Robert Macy wrote:





On Mar 7, 8:14*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 7, 8:37*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 7, 8:13*am, Robert Macy wrote:

On Mar 6, 8:17*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 6, 9:14*am, Robert Macy wrote:

Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

It's likely the plug is there as a code required clean-out,
so you can't use it, now would you want to.
Next, assuming the existing is just a vertical waste line
with no trap, then you need a trap. *And behind that trap
you need a vent line. *That is usually the real fly in the ointment
because unless there is one you can legitimately tie
into, you normally would need to run one all the way
out the roof. * If that isn't feasible, as is often the case
you can use an air admittance valve. *That's basicly
a check valve that allows air into the drain system, but
won't let water flow out. *Then you need a vertical pipe
up to the height of the washer.

So you have to cut out a section of the existing waste
line. *Then you'll add in sequence:

sanitary tee fitting in existing line
air admittance valve or vent line
trap
pipe up to height of top of washer

To glue back into the existing pipe you'll need
REPAIR couplings. *Those look like any other
coupling except they don't have a stop ridge in
the center. *So, you can slide them all the way
on both ends of the new piece then move them
back over the ends of the existing pipe. *A little
tricky and you have to be quick as the glue is
setting. * Alternative is to use a Fernco type on
one end.

Also make sure you use the right materials. *If
existing line is ABS, use that. *If it's PVC use that.
You can't join PVC to ABS by gluing, it's not
permitted by code, at least not here. *You can
use Fernco type couplings, but if it's cheaper and
more reliable to stick with glue where possible.

This is new construction with everything else installed - the hot/cold
pair, 6 inch vent pipe to outside, 220Vac, etc

The drain pipe looks like a 'hurry up and make it look finished so we
can get out of here' cover.

Don't think it's for cleanout since it is a T junction. and cleanouts
tend to be 45 angles elsewhere.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That's a very strange way to leave it and would not seem to have
anything to do with hurrying up. * If it was installed correcly with
a trap and vent, then all that was needed was to glue in about a
4ft section of pipe instead of that fitting and plug. * Is it visible
from
the basement to check for a trap? *Sounds like it's probably there,
but can't hurt to check if possible. * If you have a trap, then all
you need is a piece of 1 1/2" or 2" pipe up to the level of the top of
the
washer and a male adapter that's the same size as the plug to
glue on the end. *Use teflon tape on the threads.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

After posting the above, I took another look and this part is
puzzling:

"Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2
1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet? "

How can you see it and access it if the plug terminating what's
there is inside the wall at floor level? *Perhaps some pics would
help.

In the new construction in these parts, NJ, plumbers
use one of the washer connection box units where the
drain and water supply valves terminate in a recessed box
inside the wall at a height near the top of the washer.

thanks for that one, the box is there for the hot/cold, and saw a
tube, no idea what that was for. *Looks like a flexible 3/4 inch OD
creasible type.

That doesn't sound right either. *Here's a link to a
typical washer box that supports 1.5" or 2" drain:

http://www.hardwareandtools.com/Oate...ing-Machine-Ou...

If the link doesn't work. just google "washer connection box". * I
don't know what you're looking at that's 3/4",
but it sounds more like the hose that comes with the
washer than the drain that should be in the house for
the washer. *The drain should be 1 1/2" or 2".



I'll see if I can find out whether a trap is in there

there's an 'unfinished hole in the wall to view its contents. *A
temporary cosmetic cover was over the hole.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

that looks about like it, but ours has two drain plugs to snap out and
the hot/cold are both to the right side.

On Mar 8, 10:34*am, Robert Macy wrote:
On Mar 7, 5:23*pm, "
wrote:





On Mar 7, 3:58*pm, Robert Macy wrote:

On Mar 7, 8:14*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 7, 8:37*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 7, 8:13*am, Robert Macy wrote:

On Mar 6, 8:17*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 6, 9:14*am, Robert Macy wrote:

Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

It's likely the plug is there as a code required clean-out,
so you can't use it, now would you want to.
Next, assuming the existing is just a vertical waste line
with no trap, then you need a trap. *And behind that trap
you need a vent line. *That is usually the real fly in the ointment
because unless there is one you can legitimately tie
into, you normally would need to run one all the way
out the roof. * If that isn't feasible, as is often the case
you can use an air admittance valve. *That's basicly
a check valve that allows air into the drain system, but
won't let water flow out. *Then you need a vertical pipe
up to the height of the washer.

So you have to cut out a section of the existing waste
line. *Then you'll add in sequence:

sanitary tee fitting in existing line
air admittance valve or vent line
trap
pipe up to height of top of washer

To glue back into the existing pipe you'll need
REPAIR couplings. *Those look like any other
coupling except they don't have a stop ridge in
the center. *So, you can slide them all the way
on both ends of the new piece then move them
back over the ends of the existing pipe. *A little
tricky and you have to be quick as the glue is
setting. * Alternative is to use a Fernco type on
one end.

Also make sure you use the right materials. *If
existing line is ABS, use that. *If it's PVC use that.
You can't join PVC to ABS by gluing, it's not
permitted by code, at least not here. *You can
use Fernco type couplings, but if it's cheaper and
more reliable to stick with glue where possible.

This is new construction with everything else installed - the hot/cold
pair, 6 inch vent pipe to outside, 220Vac, etc

The drain pipe looks like a 'hurry up and make it look finished so we
can get out of here' cover.

Don't think it's for cleanout since it is a T junction. and cleanouts
tend to be 45 angles elsewhere.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That's a very strange way to leave it and would not seem to have
anything to do with hurrying up. * If it was installed correcly with
a trap and vent, then all that was needed was to glue in about a
4ft section of pipe instead of that fitting and plug. * Is it visible
from
the basement to check for a trap? *Sounds like it's probably there,
but can't hurt to check if possible. * If you have a trap, then all
you need is a piece of 1 1/2" or 2" pipe up to the level of the top of
the
washer and a male adapter that's the same size as the plug to
glue on the end. *Use teflon tape on the threads.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

After posting the above, I took another look and this part is
puzzling:

"Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2
1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet? "

How can you see it and access it if the plug terminating what's
there is inside the wall at floor level? *Perhaps some pics would
help.

In the new construction in these parts, NJ, plumbers
use one of the washer connection box units where the
drain and water supply valves terminate in a recessed box
inside the wall at a height near the top of the washer.

thanks for that one, the box is there for the hot/cold, and saw a
tube, no idea what that was for. *Looks like a flexible 3/4 inch OD
creasible type.

That doesn't sound right either. *Here's a link to a
typical washer box that supports 1.5" or 2" drain:

http://www.hardwareandtools.com/Oate...ing-Machine-Ou...

If the link doesn't work. just google "washer connection box". * I
don't know what you're looking at that's 3/4",
but it sounds more like the hose that comes with the
washer than the drain that should be in the house for
the washer. *The drain should be 1 1/2" or 2".

I'll see if I can find out whether a trap is in there

there's an 'unfinished hole in the wall to view its contents. *A
temporary cosmetic cover was over the hole.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

that looks about like it, but ours has two drain plugs to snap out and
the hot/cold are both to the right side.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


It's unbelievable they left it like that. If I understand it
correcly,
what you have is the typical washer connection box in the wall,
at a height near the top of the washer,
with the water valves connected and working. The box has
knockout for 2 different size drains, but none is being used.
Then in the wall area near the floor, you have some kind of
hole in the drywall where you can see the top of a plug that;s
in a 2" waste line.

So, what's apparently missing is the run
of pipe from where that plug is up to the box. Is there a
trap visible? Or if there is a basement below it could be
there. Should be a trap, but since they half-assed it, who
knows? If you have the trap, then all you need to do is
connect that missing pipe. Unfortunately, that will mean
opening up the drywall.

And since the box is already in
and connected, you'll probably have to do it in 3 sections.
One section of pipe near the bottom with a male adaptor
so that it will screw into where the plug is. Another
section at the top where it will fit into the box in the
wall. And then a third piece in the middle which you
will insert last and use repair type couplings to join it
to the other two pieces.

On Mar 8, 8:59*am, "
wrote:
On Mar 8, 10:34*am, Robert Macy wrote:





On Mar 7, 5:23*pm, "
wrote:

On Mar 7, 3:58*pm, Robert Macy wrote:

On Mar 7, 8:14*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 7, 8:37*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 7, 8:13*am, Robert Macy wrote:

On Mar 6, 8:17*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 6, 9:14*am, Robert Macy wrote:

Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

It's likely the plug is there as a code required clean-out,
so you can't use it, now would you want to.
Next, assuming the existing is just a vertical waste line
with no trap, then you need a trap. *And behind that trap
you need a vent line. *That is usually the real fly in the ointment
because unless there is one you can legitimately tie
into, you normally would need to run one all the way
out the roof. * If that isn't feasible, as is often the case
you can use an air admittance valve. *That's basicly
a check valve that allows air into the drain system, but
won't let water flow out. *Then you need a vertical pipe
up to the height of the washer.

So you have to cut out a section of the existing waste
line. *Then you'll add in sequence:

sanitary tee fitting in existing line
air admittance valve or vent line
trap
pipe up to height of top of washer

To glue back into the existing pipe you'll need
REPAIR couplings. *Those look like any other
coupling except they don't have a stop ridge in
the center. *So, you can slide them all the way
on both ends of the new piece then move them
back over the ends of the existing pipe. *A little
tricky and you have to be quick as the glue is
setting. * Alternative is to use a Fernco type on
one end.

Also make sure you use the right materials. *If
existing line is ABS, use that. *If it's PVC use that.
You can't join PVC to ABS by gluing, it's not
permitted by code, at least not here. *You can
use Fernco type couplings, but if it's cheaper and
more reliable to stick with glue where possible.

This is new construction with everything else installed - the hot/cold
pair, 6 inch vent pipe to outside, 220Vac, etc

The drain pipe looks like a 'hurry up and make it look finished so we
can get out of here' cover.

Don't think it's for cleanout since it is a T junction. and cleanouts
tend to be 45 angles elsewhere.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That's a very strange way to leave it and would not seem to have
anything to do with hurrying up. * If it was installed correcly with
a trap and vent, then all that was needed was to glue in about a
4ft section of pipe instead of that fitting and plug. * Is it visible
from
the basement to check for a trap? *Sounds like it's probably there,
but can't hurt to check if possible. * If you have a trap, then all
you need is a piece of 1 1/2" or 2" pipe up to the level of the top of
the
washer and a male adapter that's the same size as the plug to
glue on the end. *Use teflon tape on the threads.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

After posting the above, I took another look and this part is
puzzling:

"Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2
1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet? "

How can you see it and access it if the plug terminating what's
there is inside the wall at floor level? *Perhaps some pics would
help.

In the new construction in these parts, NJ, plumbers
use one of the washer connection box units where the
drain and water supply valves terminate in a recessed box
inside the wall at a height near the top of the washer.

thanks for that one, the box is there for the hot/cold, and saw a
tube, no idea what that was for. *Looks like a flexible 3/4 inch OD
creasible type.

That doesn't sound right either. *Here's a link to a
typical washer box that supports 1.5" or 2" drain:

http://www.hardwareandtools.com/Oate...ing-Machine-Ou....

If the link doesn't work. just google "washer connection box". * I
don't know what you're looking at that's 3/4",
but it sounds more like the hose that comes with the
washer than the drain that should be in the house for
the washer. *The drain should be 1 1/2" or 2".

I'll see if I can find out whether a trap is in there

there's an 'unfinished hole in the wall to view its contents. *A
temporary cosmetic cover was over the hole.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

that looks about like it, but ours has two drain plugs to snap out and
the hot/cold are both to the right side.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's unbelievable they left it like that. *If I understand it
correcly,
what you have is the typical washer connection box in the wall,
at a height near the top of the washer,
with the water valves connected and working. *The box has
knockout for 2 different size drains, but none is being used.
Then in the wall area near the floor, you have some kind of
hole in the drywall where you can see the top of a plug that;s
in a 2" waste line.

So, what's apparently missing is the run
of pipe from where that plug is up to the box. * Is there a
trap visible? *Or if there is a basement below it could be
there. * Should be a trap, but since they half-assed it, who
knows? * If you have the trap, then all you need to do is
connect that missing pipe. *Unfortunately, that will mean
opening up the drywall.

And since the box is already in
and connected, you'll probably have to do it in 3 sections.
One section of pipe near the bottom with a male adaptor
so that it will screw into where the plug is. * Another
section at the top where it will fit into the box in the
wall. * And then a third piece in the middle which you
will insert last and use repair type couplings to join it
to the other two pieces.

THANKS TO ALL!!!

Inside the wall, propoerly attached to the box is a plastic Y that
then becomes a plastic drain pipe on down to a ....J Trap! and into
the side of the drain pipe that has a 'clean out' plug exposed via a
very badly finished hole through the dry wall.

Lesson Learned: NEVER ASSUME! I have never seen these plastic boxes
for washer connection before. The drain access inside the plastic box
looked more decorative, than functional, purely cosmetic and sealed.
The very badly finished hole in the wall revealing the plug in the
side of the drain pipe made me think "rushed, didn't finish" so I
assumed I would have to add a J-Trap and drain to that location!

But thanks to you all. I found that the washer connection is complete,
PLUS even has a cleanout access!

Never saw any of this stuff before, because that part of the drywall
is perfectly finished. Even the box is mounted better than the
outlets so really difficult to see through any slots to see that drain
pipe.



Ok, now why two drain holes the same size?

and inside the box, what's that plastic tube coming down from the top
for? not a pipe, but tube that is thin walled so creased where it's
folded behind the faucets.

On Mar 8, 2:34*pm, Robert Macy wrote:
On Mar 8, 8:59*am, "
wrote:





On Mar 8, 10:34*am, Robert Macy wrote:

On Mar 7, 5:23*pm, "
wrote:

On Mar 7, 3:58*pm, Robert Macy wrote:

On Mar 7, 8:14*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 7, 8:37*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 7, 8:13*am, Robert Macy wrote:

On Mar 6, 8:17*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 6, 9:14*am, Robert Macy wrote:

Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time.. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option..

It's likely the plug is there as a code required clean-out,
so you can't use it, now would you want to.
Next, assuming the existing is just a vertical waste line
with no trap, then you need a trap. *And behind that trap
you need a vent line. *That is usually the real fly in the ointment
because unless there is one you can legitimately tie
into, you normally would need to run one all the way
out the roof. * If that isn't feasible, as is often the case
you can use an air admittance valve. *That's basicly
a check valve that allows air into the drain system, but
won't let water flow out. *Then you need a vertical pipe
up to the height of the washer.

So you have to cut out a section of the existing waste
line. *Then you'll add in sequence:

sanitary tee fitting in existing line
air admittance valve or vent line
trap
pipe up to height of top of washer

To glue back into the existing pipe you'll need
REPAIR couplings. *Those look like any other
coupling except they don't have a stop ridge in
the center. *So, you can slide them all the way
on both ends of the new piece then move them
back over the ends of the existing pipe. *A little
tricky and you have to be quick as the glue is
setting. * Alternative is to use a Fernco type on
one end.

Also make sure you use the right materials. *If
existing line is ABS, use that. *If it's PVC use that.
You can't join PVC to ABS by gluing, it's not
permitted by code, at least not here. *You can
use Fernco type couplings, but if it's cheaper and
more reliable to stick with glue where possible.

This is new construction with everything else installed - the hot/cold
pair, 6 inch vent pipe to outside, 220Vac, etc

The drain pipe looks like a 'hurry up and make it look finished so we
can get out of here' cover.

Don't think it's for cleanout since it is a T junction. and cleanouts
tend to be 45 angles elsewhere.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That's a very strange way to leave it and would not seem to have
anything to do with hurrying up. * If it was installed correcly with
a trap and vent, then all that was needed was to glue in about a
4ft section of pipe instead of that fitting and plug. * Is it visible
from
the basement to check for a trap? *Sounds like it's probably there,
but can't hurt to check if possible. * If you have a trap, then all
you need is a piece of 1 1/2" or 2" pipe up to the level of the top of
the
washer and a male adapter that's the same size as the plug to
glue on the end. *Use teflon tape on the threads.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

After posting the above, I took another look and this part is
puzzling:

"Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2
1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet? "

How can you see it and access it if the plug terminating what's
there is inside the wall at floor level? *Perhaps some pics would
help.

In the new construction in these parts, NJ, plumbers
use one of the washer connection box units where the
drain and water supply valves terminate in a recessed box
inside the wall at a height near the top of the washer.

thanks for that one, the box is there for the hot/cold, and saw a
tube, no idea what that was for. *Looks like a flexible 3/4 inch OD
creasible type.

That doesn't sound right either. *Here's a link to a
typical washer box that supports 1.5" or 2" drain:

http://www.hardwareandtools.com/Oate...ing-Machine-Ou...

If the link doesn't work. just google "washer connection box". * I
don't know what you're looking at that's 3/4",
but it sounds more like the hose that comes with the
washer than the drain that should be in the house for
the washer. *The drain should be 1 1/2" or 2".

I'll see if I can find out whether a trap is in there

there's an 'unfinished hole in the wall to view its contents. *A
temporary cosmetic cover was over the hole.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

that looks about like it, but ours has two drain plugs to snap out and
the hot/cold are both to the right side.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's unbelievable they left it like that. *If I understand it
correcly,
what you have is the typical washer connection box in the wall,
at a height near the top of the washer,
with the water valves connected and working. *The box has
knockout for 2 different size drains, but none is being used.
Then in the wall area near the floor, you have some kind of
hole in the drywall where you can see the top of a plug that;s
in a 2" waste line.

So, what's apparently missing is the run
of pipe from where that plug is up to the box. * Is there a
trap visible? *Or if there is a basement below it could be
there. * Should be a trap, but since they half-assed it, who
knows? * If you have the trap, then all you need to do is
connect that missing pipe. *Unfortunately, that will mean
opening up the drywall.

And since the box is already in
and connected, you'll probably have to do it in 3 sections.
One section of pipe near the bottom with a male adaptor
so that it will screw into where the plug is. * Another
section at the top where it will fit into the box in the
wall. * And then a third piece in the middle which you
will insert last and use repair type couplings to join it
to the other two pieces.

THANKS TO ALL!!!

Inside the wall, propoerly attached to the box is a plastic Y that
then becomes *a plastic drain pipe on down to a ....J Trap! and into
the side of the drain pipe that has a 'clean out' plug exposed via a
very badly finished hole through the dry wall.

Lesson Learned: NEVER ASSUME! *I have never seen these plastic boxes
for washer connection before. The drain access inside the plastic box
looked more decorative, than functional, purely cosmetic and sealed.
The very badly finished hole in the wall revealing the plug in the
side of the drain pipe made me think "rushed, didn't finish" so I
assumed I would have to add a J-Trap and drain to that location!

But thanks to you all. I found that the washer connection is complete,
PLUS even has a cleanout access!

Never saw any of this stuff before, because that part of the drywall
is perfectly finished. *Even the box is mounted better than the
outlets so really difficult to see through any slots to see that drain
pipe.

Ok, now why two drain holes the same size?

So you have a spare drain I guess? Sometimes the washer
drain is used to route other water, like from a condensate pump
from a furnace for example. For that, the hose is small
enough that it could probably go in the same hole.
But I guess they gave you an extra in case you can
use it for something else.




and inside the box, what's that plastic tube coming down from the top
for? *not a pipe, but tube that is thin walled so creased where it's
folded behind the faucets.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

No idea on that one. Is it connected to anything? Where
do the ends go? What size? Could it be a drain from something
else, like a condensate drain mentioned above?

On Mar 8, 1:19*pm, "
wrote:
...snip...

???

the tube is white plastic vinyl like about 9/16 OD and is inserted
into another tube, beige in color, just large enough to hold it. The
white tube has no termination and is folded over creasing it where
it's stored inside the recess of the 'washer box'

the white tube can slip up and down into the other tube [which is
rigidly mounted] and feels like there's a lot of weight above pushing
down.

almost looks like separate water supply like near a fridge, but seems
to be a lot larger. I have NO idea what's at the other end of this
tube.

So again the washer box has two identically sized drain plugs then hot/
cold faucets, but coming down from inside the top is this non-robust
white plastic tube that can slip inside another rigidly mounted tube.

soft water feed? or something along that line? Definitely part of the
washeer box.

On Mar 9, 12:10*pm, Robert Macy wrote:
On Mar 8, 1:19*pm, "
wrote:
..snip...

???

the tube is white plastic vinyl like about 9/16 OD and is inserted
into another tube, beige in color, just large enough to hold it. The
white tube has no termination and is folded over creasing it where
it's stored inside the recess of the 'washer box'

the white tube can slip up and down into the other tube [which is
rigidly mounted] and feels like there's a lot of weight above pushing
down.

almost looks like separate water supply like near a fridge, but seems
to be a lot larger. *I have NO idea what's at the other end of this
tube.

Sounds about the size of tubing for a condensate drain.
Is there a condensing furnace or AC located somewhere
that could be connected to it, either by gravity or a condensate
pump? The condensate has to go somewhere and routing it to a washing
machine drain
is a popular option.



So again the washer box has two identically sized drain plugs then hot/
cold faucets, but coming down from inside the top is this non-robust
white plastic tube that can slip inside another rigidly mounted tube.

soft water feed? or something along that line? *Definitely part of the
washeer box.

On Mar 10, 7:04*pm, "
wrote:
On Mar 9, 12:10*pm, Robert Macy wrote:





On Mar 8, 1:19*pm, "
wrote:
..snip...

???

the tube is white plastic vinyl like about 9/16 OD and is inserted
into another tube, beige in color, just large enough to hold it. The
white tube has no termination and is folded over creasing it where
it's stored inside the recess of the 'washer box'

the white tube can slip up and down into the other tube [which is
rigidly mounted] and feels like there's a lot of weight above pushing
down.

almost looks like separate water supply like near a fridge, but seems
to be a lot larger. *I have NO idea what's at the other end of this
tube.

Sounds about the size of tubing for a condensate drain.
Is there a condensing furnace or AC located somewhere
that could be connected to it, either by gravity or a condensate
pump? * The condensate has to go somewhere and routing it to a washing
machine drain
is a popular option.



So again the washer box has two identically sized drain plugs then hot/
cold faucets, but coming down from inside the top is this non-robust
white plastic tube that can slip inside another rigidly mounted tube.

soft water feed? or something along that line? *Definitely part of the
washeer box.

Interesting!

In AZ one method of installing the AC is to mount by hanging from
rafters via straps in the attic space. Our home has three
'zones' [three AC/Handlers] and every normal drip pipe is accounted
for. Each AC/Handler has two pipes that go to the outside world. One
mounted near ground and one mounted near ceiling. They stick out of
the external walls and are a visual blight [but common here]. In the
summer the botton pipe of any AC constantly running drips to the
extent thirsty critters gather around. And, Jim Thompson has pointed
out that in the winter watch for the spiders to nest in the pipes and
plug them, causing them to later back up and leak through the ceiling!

It would be great if this tube belonged to the main living unit's
drain and I could simply stick the tube into the 'extra' drain hole.
But, that main unit ran constantly while the house was being shown,
and there is evidence that every exterior pipe was operating normally,
carrying off the condensate. This white tube in the washer box is
pristine, with no evidence of any use, or liquid through it!

Yechhh! it sounds like a trip back up into the attic to search for the
other end of this tube! Even with new construction it's not fun to
clamber through confined space and dig into 18 inch thick cellulose
fluff to find anything.

On Thu, 8 Mar 2012 06:46:02 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy
wrote:

where, how?

Try one of the following:

Flickr.com
photobucket.com
tinypic.com
imageshack.us
freepicturehosting.com
photodok.com

I'm sure there are dozens more to choose from.

On Mar 11, 10:17*am, Robert Macy wrote:
On Mar 10, 7:04*pm, "
wrote:





On Mar 9, 12:10*pm, Robert Macy wrote:

On Mar 8, 1:19*pm, "
wrote:
..snip...

???

the tube is white plastic vinyl like about 9/16 OD and is inserted
into another tube, beige in color, just large enough to hold it. The
white tube has no termination and is folded over creasing it where
it's stored inside the recess of the 'washer box'

the white tube can slip up and down into the other tube [which is
rigidly mounted] and feels like there's a lot of weight above pushing
down.

almost looks like separate water supply like near a fridge, but seems
to be a lot larger. *I have NO idea what's at the other end of this
tube.

Sounds about the size of tubing for a condensate drain.
Is there a condensing furnace or AC located somewhere
that could be connected to it, either by gravity or a condensate
pump? * The condensate has to go somewhere and routing it to a washing
machine drain
is a popular option.

So again the washer box has two identically sized drain plugs then hot/
cold faucets, but coming down from inside the top is this non-robust
white plastic tube that can slip inside another rigidly mounted tube.

soft water feed? or something along that line? *Definitely part of the
washeer box.

Interesting!

In AZ one method of installing the AC is to mount by hanging from
rafters via straps in the attic space. *Our home has three
'zones' [three AC/Handlers] and every normal drip pipe is accounted
for. *Each AC/Handler has two pipes that go to the outside world. One
mounted near ground and one mounted near ceiling. They stick out of
the external walls and are a visual blight [but common here]. In the
summer the botton pipe of any AC constantly running drips to the
extent thirsty critters gather around. And, Jim Thompson has pointed
out that in the winter watch for the spiders to nest in the pipes and
plug them, causing them to later back up and leak through the ceiling!


Sounds like the ground level drain is the primary and
the one located higher up is the aux overflow. That's a
good way of doing it, with the idea being if the primary
clogs up, you'll see the water coming out up higher on
the side of the house and know something is wrong.

The AC in the attic should have a pan with a float
switch in it to cut it off in case the pan fills. It would
be a good idea to make sure it's there and working.




It would be great if this tube belonged to the main living unit's
drain and I could simply stick the tube into the 'extra' drain hole.
But, that main unit ran constantly while the house was being shown,
and there is evidence that every exterior pipe was operating normally,
carrying off the condensate. This white tube in the washer box is
pristine, with no evidence of any use, or liquid through it!

Yechhh! it sounds like a trip back up into the attic to search for the
other end of this tube! *Even with new construction it's not fun to
clamber through confined space and dig into 18 inch thick cellulose
fluff to find anything.- Hide quoted text -


I guess it depends how curious you are. It's possible
the plumbers roughed in that extra line up to some
point for possible use for the attic AC, but the HVAC
guys didn't use it. It's possible it doesn;t go anywhere,
just ends above the box in the drywall, etc.

On Mar 7, 5:23*pm, "
wrote:
On Mar 7, 3:58*pm, Robert Macy wrote:





On Mar 7, 8:14*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 7, 8:37*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 7, 8:13*am, Robert Macy wrote:

On Mar 6, 8:17*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 6, 9:14*am, Robert Macy wrote:

Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

It's likely the plug is there as a code required clean-out,
so you can't use it, now would you want to.
Next, assuming the existing is just a vertical waste line
with no trap, then you need a trap. *And behind that trap
you need a vent line. *That is usually the real fly in the ointment
because unless there is one you can legitimately tie
into, you normally would need to run one all the way
out the roof. * If that isn't feasible, as is often the case
you can use an air admittance valve. *That's basicly
a check valve that allows air into the drain system, but
won't let water flow out. *Then you need a vertical pipe
up to the height of the washer.

So you have to cut out a section of the existing waste
line. *Then you'll add in sequence:

sanitary tee fitting in existing line
air admittance valve or vent line
trap
pipe up to height of top of washer

To glue back into the existing pipe you'll need
REPAIR couplings. *Those look like any other
coupling except they don't have a stop ridge in
the center. *So, you can slide them all the way
on both ends of the new piece then move them
back over the ends of the existing pipe. *A little
tricky and you have to be quick as the glue is
setting. * Alternative is to use a Fernco type on
one end.

Also make sure you use the right materials. *If
existing line is ABS, use that. *If it's PVC use that.
You can't join PVC to ABS by gluing, it's not
permitted by code, at least not here. *You can
use Fernco type couplings, but if it's cheaper and
more reliable to stick with glue where possible.

This is new construction with everything else installed - the hot/cold
pair, 6 inch vent pipe to outside, 220Vac, etc

The drain pipe looks like a 'hurry up and make it look finished so we
can get out of here' cover.

Don't think it's for cleanout since it is a T junction. and cleanouts
tend to be 45 angles elsewhere.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That's a very strange way to leave it and would not seem to have
anything to do with hurrying up. * If it was installed correcly with
a trap and vent, then all that was needed was to glue in about a
4ft section of pipe instead of that fitting and plug. * Is it visible
from
the basement to check for a trap? *Sounds like it's probably there,
but can't hurt to check if possible. * If you have a trap, then all
you need is a piece of 1 1/2" or 2" pipe up to the level of the top of
the
washer and a male adapter that's the same size as the plug to
glue on the end. *Use teflon tape on the threads.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

After posting the above, I took another look and this part is
puzzling:

"Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2
1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet? "

How can you see it and access it if the plug terminating what's
there is inside the wall at floor level? *Perhaps some pics would
help.

In the new construction in these parts, NJ, plumbers
use one of the washer connection box units where the
drain and water supply valves terminate in a recessed box
inside the wall at a height near the top of the washer.

thanks for that one, the box is there for the hot/cold, and saw a
tube, no idea what that was for. *Looks like a flexible 3/4 inch OD
creasible type.

That doesn't sound right either. *Here's a link to a
typical washer box that supports 1.5" or 2" drain:

http://www.hardwareandtools.com/Oate...ing-Machine-Ou...

If the link doesn't work. just google "washer connection box". * I
don't know what you're looking at that's 3/4",
but it sounds more like the hose that comes with the
washer than the drain that should be in the house for
the washer. *The drain should be 1 1/2" or 2".



I'll see if I can find out whether a trap is in there

there's an 'unfinished hole in the wall to view its contents. *A
temporary cosmetic cover was over the hole.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Now, HOW to remove the plastic plug that blocks access to the drain
inside the 'washer connection box'?

I could just go after it with a sawzall, but does anybody know whether
this thing breaks out, or unscrews, or ...?

One last irksome...The dryer vent access is an excellent metal panel
[for fire safety] and has a large insert area to store extra vent hose
as you slide the dryer back against the wall. However! the idiots
placed it on the wrong side of the stud! Not centered behind the
dryer, but more like centered BETWEEN the washer dryer! Is this ok?
standard pratise? just ignore and squash the vent hose and live with
it?

Yechhh! it sounds like a trip back up into the attic to search for the
other end of this tube! *Even with new construction it's not fun to
clamber through confined space and dig into 18 inch thick cellulose
fluff to find anything.

put some compressed air back up from below, might make searching
easier.

look for insulation moving or air leaking sound

On Apr 14, 10:00*am, Robert Macy wrote:
On Mar 7, 5:23*pm, "
wrote:





On Mar 7, 3:58*pm, Robert Macy wrote:

On Mar 7, 8:14*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 7, 8:37*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 7, 8:13*am, Robert Macy wrote:

On Mar 6, 8:17*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 6, 9:14*am, Robert Macy wrote:

Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

It's likely the plug is there as a code required clean-out,
so you can't use it, now would you want to.
Next, assuming the existing is just a vertical waste line
with no trap, then you need a trap. *And behind that trap
you need a vent line. *That is usually the real fly in the ointment
because unless there is one you can legitimately tie
into, you normally would need to run one all the way
out the roof. * If that isn't feasible, as is often the case
you can use an air admittance valve. *That's basicly
a check valve that allows air into the drain system, but
won't let water flow out. *Then you need a vertical pipe
up to the height of the washer.

So you have to cut out a section of the existing waste
line. *Then you'll add in sequence:

sanitary tee fitting in existing line
air admittance valve or vent line
trap
pipe up to height of top of washer

To glue back into the existing pipe you'll need
REPAIR couplings. *Those look like any other
coupling except they don't have a stop ridge in
the center. *So, you can slide them all the way
on both ends of the new piece then move them
back over the ends of the existing pipe. *A little
tricky and you have to be quick as the glue is
setting. * Alternative is to use a Fernco type on
one end.

Also make sure you use the right materials. *If
existing line is ABS, use that. *If it's PVC use that.
You can't join PVC to ABS by gluing, it's not
permitted by code, at least not here. *You can
use Fernco type couplings, but if it's cheaper and
more reliable to stick with glue where possible.

This is new construction with everything else installed - the hot/cold
pair, 6 inch vent pipe to outside, 220Vac, etc

The drain pipe looks like a 'hurry up and make it look finished so we
can get out of here' cover.

Don't think it's for cleanout since it is a T junction. and cleanouts
tend to be 45 angles elsewhere.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That's a very strange way to leave it and would not seem to have
anything to do with hurrying up. * If it was installed correcly with
a trap and vent, then all that was needed was to glue in about a
4ft section of pipe instead of that fitting and plug. * Is it visible
from
the basement to check for a trap? *Sounds like it's probably there,
but can't hurt to check if possible. * If you have a trap, then all
you need is a piece of 1 1/2" or 2" pipe up to the level of the top of
the
washer and a male adapter that's the same size as the plug to
glue on the end. *Use teflon tape on the threads.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

After posting the above, I took another look and this part is
puzzling:

"Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2
1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet? "

How can you see it and access it if the plug terminating what's
there is inside the wall at floor level? *Perhaps some pics would
help.

In the new construction in these parts, NJ, plumbers
use one of the washer connection box units where the
drain and water supply valves terminate in a recessed box
inside the wall at a height near the top of the washer.

thanks for that one, the box is there for the hot/cold, and saw a
tube, no idea what that was for. *Looks like a flexible 3/4 inch OD
creasible type.

That doesn't sound right either. *Here's a link to a
typical washer box that supports 1.5" or 2" drain:

http://www.hardwareandtools.com/Oate...ing-Machine-Ou...

If the link doesn't work. just google "washer connection box". * I
don't know what you're looking at that's 3/4",
but it sounds more like the hose that comes with the
washer than the drain that should be in the house for
the washer. *The drain should be 1 1/2" or 2".

I'll see if I can find out whether a trap is in there

there's an 'unfinished hole in the wall to view its contents. *A
temporary cosmetic cover was over the hole.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Now, HOW to remove the plastic plug that blocks access to the drain
inside the 'washer connection box'?

I guess that depends on what kind of plug it is.
If it's a screw type plumbing plug with a square
head on it, then is should unscrew. But, I didn't
think those wall boxes had a threaded opening,
just regular pipe.




I could just go after it with a sawzall, but does anybody know whether
this thing breaks out, or unscrews, or ...?

A pic would help.



One last irksome...The dryer vent access is an excellent metal panel
[for fire safety] and has a large insert area to store extra vent hose
as you slide the dryer back against the wall. However! the idiots
placed it on the wrong side of the stud! Not centered behind the
dryer, but more like centered BETWEEN the washer dryer! *Is this ok?
standard pratise? just ignore and squash the vent hose and live with
it?- Hide quoted text -


Usually the dryer can't and doesn't need to go back all
the way anyway. On mine the vent exists and makes a
90 turn, hence the dryer is probably 6" or so from the wall.
So, I don't see any problem with where yours is located.
And what's the alternative? Tear open the wall and
re-route it?

On Apr 14, 7:24*am, bob haller wrote:
Yechhh! it sounds like a trip back up into the attic to search for the
other end of this tube! *Even with new construction it's not fun to
clamber through confined space and dig into 18 inch thick cellulose
fluff to find anything.

put some compressed air back up from below, might make searching
easier.

look for insulation moving or air leaking sound

good idea!

On Apr 14, 7:31*am, "
wrote:
On Apr 14, 10:00*am, Robert Macy wrote:





On Mar 7, 5:23*pm, "
wrote:

On Mar 7, 3:58*pm, Robert Macy wrote:

On Mar 7, 8:14*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 7, 8:37*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 7, 8:13*am, Robert Macy wrote:

On Mar 6, 8:17*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 6, 9:14*am, Robert Macy wrote:

Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

It's likely the plug is there as a code required clean-out,
so you can't use it, now would you want to.
Next, assuming the existing is just a vertical waste line
with no trap, then you need a trap. *And behind that trap
you need a vent line. *That is usually the real fly in the ointment
because unless there is one you can legitimately tie
into, you normally would need to run one all the way
out the roof. * If that isn't feasible, as is often the case
you can use an air admittance valve. *That's basicly
a check valve that allows air into the drain system, but
won't let water flow out. *Then you need a vertical pipe
up to the height of the washer.

So you have to cut out a section of the existing waste
line. *Then you'll add in sequence:

sanitary tee fitting in existing line
air admittance valve or vent line
trap
pipe up to height of top of washer

To glue back into the existing pipe you'll need
REPAIR couplings. *Those look like any other
coupling except they don't have a stop ridge in
the center. *So, you can slide them all the way
on both ends of the new piece then move them
back over the ends of the existing pipe. *A little
tricky and you have to be quick as the glue is
setting. * Alternative is to use a Fernco type on
one end.

Also make sure you use the right materials. *If
existing line is ABS, use that. *If it's PVC use that.
You can't join PVC to ABS by gluing, it's not
permitted by code, at least not here. *You can
use Fernco type couplings, but if it's cheaper and
more reliable to stick with glue where possible.

This is new construction with everything else installed - the hot/cold
pair, 6 inch vent pipe to outside, 220Vac, etc

The drain pipe looks like a 'hurry up and make it look finished so we
can get out of here' cover.

Don't think it's for cleanout since it is a T junction. and cleanouts
tend to be 45 angles elsewhere.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That's a very strange way to leave it and would not seem to have
anything to do with hurrying up. * If it was installed correcly with
a trap and vent, then all that was needed was to glue in about a
4ft section of pipe instead of that fitting and plug. * Is it visible
from
the basement to check for a trap? *Sounds like it's probably there,
but can't hurt to check if possible. * If you have a trap, then all
you need is a piece of 1 1/2" or 2" pipe up to the level of the top of
the
washer and a male adapter that's the same size as the plug to
glue on the end. *Use teflon tape on the threads.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

After posting the above, I took another look and this part is
puzzling:

"Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2
1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet? "

How can you see it and access it if the plug terminating what's
there is inside the wall at floor level? *Perhaps some pics would
help.

In the new construction in these parts, NJ, plumbers
use one of the washer connection box units where the
drain and water supply valves terminate in a recessed box
inside the wall at a height near the top of the washer.

thanks for that one, the box is there for the hot/cold, and saw a
tube, no idea what that was for. *Looks like a flexible 3/4 inch OD
creasible type.

That doesn't sound right either. *Here's a link to a
typical washer box that supports 1.5" or 2" drain:

http://www.hardwareandtools.com/Oate...ing-Machine-Ou....

If the link doesn't work. just google "washer connection box". * I
don't know what you're looking at that's 3/4",
but it sounds more like the hose that comes with the
washer than the drain that should be in the house for
the washer. *The drain should be 1 1/2" or 2".

I'll see if I can find out whether a trap is in there

there's an 'unfinished hole in the wall to view its contents. *A
temporary cosmetic cover was over the hole.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Now, HOW to remove the plastic plug that blocks access to the drain
inside the 'washer connection box'?

I guess that depends on what kind of plug it is.
If it's a screw type plumbing plug with a square
head on it, then is should unscrew. *But, I didn't
think those wall boxes had a threaded opening,
just regular pipe.



I could just go after it with a sawzall, but does anybody know whether
this thing breaks out, or unscrews, or ...?

A pic would help.



One last irksome...The dryer vent access is an excellent metal panel
[for fire safety] and has a large insert area to store extra vent hose
as you slide the dryer back against the wall. However! the idiots
placed it on the wrong side of the stud! Not centered behind the
dryer, but more like centered BETWEEN the washer dryer! *Is this ok?
standard pratise? just ignore and squash the vent hose and live with
it?- Hide quoted text -

Usually the dryer can't and doesn't need to go back all
the way anyway. *On mine the vent exists and makes a
90 turn, hence the dryer is probably 6" or so from the wall.
So, I don't see any problem with where yours is located.
And what's the alternative? *Tear open the wall and
re-route it?

Ok, I'll leave alone.

Since posting I've found several descriptions for removing the 'test
cap'

so I guess it's just "have at it" and break it out.