Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

The only thing I know, is that the washing machine hose has to go over the
level of the washer basket. The discharg hose hooks on the back with a
clamp. The hose is maybe three feet long, and ends with upside down J. The
loop part of the J needs to be higher than the top of the basket.

So, you've got to get various fittings, and make a rigid tube that goes up
from the floor, to about the level of the top of the washing machine. Hard
to explain in text.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Robert Macy" wrote in message
...
Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

On Mar 6, 7:23*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
The only thing I know, is that the washing machine hose has to go over the
level of the washer basket. The discharg hose hooks on the back with a
clamp. The hose is maybe three feet long, and ends with upside down J. The
loop part of the J needs to be higher than the top of the basket.

So, you've got to get various fittings, and make a rigid tube that goes up
from the floor, to about the level of the top of the washing machine. Hard
to explain in text.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Robert Macy" wrote in message

...
Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

My last installation of sticking the J-tube down a very long chrome
drain pipe held up against the wall like that yielded 'squirting' out
the tiny vent slot! from time to time.

I was kind of hoping for a list from HD, and some experienced, "Watch
out for...."'s.

On Mar 6, 9:14*am, Robert Macy wrote:
Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

It's likely the plug is there as a code required clean-out,
so you can't use it, now would you want to.
Next, assuming the existing is just a vertical waste line
with no trap, then you need a trap. And behind that trap
you need a vent line. That is usually the real fly in the ointment
because unless there is one you can legitimately tie
into, you normally would need to run one all the way
out the roof. If that isn't feasible, as is often the case
you can use an air admittance valve. That's basicly
a check valve that allows air into the drain system, but
won't let water flow out. Then you need a vertical pipe
up to the height of the washer.

So you have to cut out a section of the existing waste
line. Then you'll add in sequence:

sanitary tee fitting in existing line
air admittance valve or vent line
trap
pipe up to height of top of washer

To glue back into the existing pipe you'll need
REPAIR couplings. Those look like any other
coupling except they don't have a stop ridge in
the center. So, you can slide them all the way
on both ends of the new piece then move them
back over the ends of the existing pipe. A little
tricky and you have to be quick as the glue is
setting. Alternative is to use a Fernco type on
one end.

Also make sure you use the right materials. If
existing line is ABS, use that. If it's PVC use that.
You can't join PVC to ABS by gluing, it's not
permitted by code, at least not here. You can
use Fernco type couplings, but if it's cheaper and
more reliable to stick with glue where possible.

On Mar 6, 8:17*am, "
wrote:
On Mar 6, 9:14*am, Robert Macy wrote:





Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

It's likely the plug is there as a code required clean-out,
so you can't use it, now would you want to.
Next, assuming the existing is just a vertical waste line
with no trap, then you need a trap. *And behind that trap
you need a vent line. *That is usually the real fly in the ointment
because unless there is one you can legitimately tie
into, you normally would need to run one all the way
out the roof. * If that isn't feasible, as is often the case
you can use an air admittance valve. *That's basicly
a check valve that allows air into the drain system, but
won't let water flow out. *Then you need a vertical pipe
up to the height of the washer.

So you have to cut out a section of the existing waste
line. *Then you'll add in sequence:

sanitary tee fitting in existing line
air admittance valve or vent line
trap
pipe up to height of top of washer

To glue back into the existing pipe you'll need
REPAIR couplings. *Those look like any other
coupling except they don't have a stop ridge in
the center. *So, you can slide them all the way
on both ends of the new piece then move them
back over the ends of the existing pipe. *A little
tricky and you have to be quick as the glue is
setting. * Alternative is to use a Fernco type on
one end.

Also make sure you use the right materials. *If
existing line is ABS, use that. *If it's PVC use that.
You can't join PVC to ABS by gluing, it's not
permitted by code, at least not here. *You can
use Fernco type couplings, but if it's cheaper and
more reliable to stick with glue where possible.

This is new construction with everything else installed - the hot/cold
pair, 6 inch vent pipe to outside, 220Vac, etc

The drain pipe looks like a 'hurry up and make it look finished so we
can get out of here' cover.

Don't think it's for cleanout since it is a T junction. and cleanouts
tend to be 45 angles elsewhere.

On Mar 7, 8:13*am, Robert Macy wrote:
On Mar 6, 8:17*am, "
wrote:





On Mar 6, 9:14*am, Robert Macy wrote:

Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

It's likely the plug is there as a code required clean-out,
so you can't use it, now would you want to.
Next, assuming the existing is just a vertical waste line
with no trap, then you need a trap. *And behind that trap
you need a vent line. *That is usually the real fly in the ointment
because unless there is one you can legitimately tie
into, you normally would need to run one all the way
out the roof. * If that isn't feasible, as is often the case
you can use an air admittance valve. *That's basicly
a check valve that allows air into the drain system, but
won't let water flow out. *Then you need a vertical pipe
up to the height of the washer.

So you have to cut out a section of the existing waste
line. *Then you'll add in sequence:

sanitary tee fitting in existing line
air admittance valve or vent line
trap
pipe up to height of top of washer

To glue back into the existing pipe you'll need
REPAIR couplings. *Those look like any other
coupling except they don't have a stop ridge in
the center. *So, you can slide them all the way
on both ends of the new piece then move them
back over the ends of the existing pipe. *A little
tricky and you have to be quick as the glue is
setting. * Alternative is to use a Fernco type on
one end.

Also make sure you use the right materials. *If
existing line is ABS, use that. *If it's PVC use that.
You can't join PVC to ABS by gluing, it's not
permitted by code, at least not here. *You can
use Fernco type couplings, but if it's cheaper and
more reliable to stick with glue where possible.

This is new construction with everything else installed - the hot/cold
pair, 6 inch vent pipe to outside, 220Vac, etc

The drain pipe looks like a 'hurry up and make it look finished so we
can get out of here' cover.

Don't think it's for cleanout since it is a T junction. and cleanouts
tend to be 45 angles elsewhere.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That's a very strange way to leave it and would not seem to have
anything to do with hurrying up. If it was installed correcly with
a trap and vent, then all that was needed was to glue in about a
4ft section of pipe instead of that fitting and plug. Is it visible
from
the basement to check for a trap? Sounds like it's probably there,
but can't hurt to check if possible. If you have a trap, then all
you need is a piece of 1 1/2" or 2" pipe up to the level of the top of
the
washer and a male adapter that's the same size as the plug to
glue on the end. Use teflon tape on the threads.

On Mar 7, 8:37*am, "
wrote:
On Mar 7, 8:13*am, Robert Macy wrote:





On Mar 6, 8:17*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 6, 9:14*am, Robert Macy wrote:

Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

It's likely the plug is there as a code required clean-out,
so you can't use it, now would you want to.
Next, assuming the existing is just a vertical waste line
with no trap, then you need a trap. *And behind that trap
you need a vent line. *That is usually the real fly in the ointment
because unless there is one you can legitimately tie
into, you normally would need to run one all the way
out the roof. * If that isn't feasible, as is often the case
you can use an air admittance valve. *That's basicly
a check valve that allows air into the drain system, but
won't let water flow out. *Then you need a vertical pipe
up to the height of the washer.

So you have to cut out a section of the existing waste
line. *Then you'll add in sequence:

sanitary tee fitting in existing line
air admittance valve or vent line
trap
pipe up to height of top of washer

To glue back into the existing pipe you'll need
REPAIR couplings. *Those look like any other
coupling except they don't have a stop ridge in
the center. *So, you can slide them all the way
on both ends of the new piece then move them
back over the ends of the existing pipe. *A little
tricky and you have to be quick as the glue is
setting. * Alternative is to use a Fernco type on
one end.

Also make sure you use the right materials. *If
existing line is ABS, use that. *If it's PVC use that.
You can't join PVC to ABS by gluing, it's not
permitted by code, at least not here. *You can
use Fernco type couplings, but if it's cheaper and
more reliable to stick with glue where possible.

This is new construction with everything else installed - the hot/cold
pair, 6 inch vent pipe to outside, 220Vac, etc

The drain pipe looks like a 'hurry up and make it look finished so we
can get out of here' cover.

Don't think it's for cleanout since it is a T junction. and cleanouts
tend to be 45 angles elsewhere.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That's a very strange way to leave it and would not seem to have
anything to do with hurrying up. * If it was installed correcly with
a trap and vent, then all that was needed was to glue in about a
4ft section of pipe instead of that fitting and plug. * Is it visible
from
the basement to check for a trap? *Sounds like it's probably there,
but can't hurt to check if possible. * If you have a trap, then all
you need is a piece of 1 1/2" or 2" pipe up to the level of the top of
the
washer and a male adapter that's the same size as the plug to
glue on the end. *Use teflon tape on the threads.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

After posting the above, I took another look and this part is
puzzling:

"Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2
1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet? "

How can you see it and access it if the plug terminating what's
there is inside the wall at floor level? Perhaps some pics would
help.

In the new construction in these parts, NJ, plumbers
use one of the washer connection box units where the
drain and water supply valves terminate in a recessed box
inside the wall at a height near the top of the washer.

On Mar 7, 8:14*am, "
wrote:
On Mar 7, 8:37*am, "
wrote:





On Mar 7, 8:13*am, Robert Macy wrote:

On Mar 6, 8:17*am, "
wrote:

On Mar 6, 9:14*am, Robert Macy wrote:

Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2 1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet?

I know, I know, a search but you guys KNOW this stuff and can do a
simple paragraph *and* most importantly any 'gotchas' .

Embarrassingly, over the years I have NEVER gotten a drain system to
work right, always leaked/dripped, ie around one of those work sink
drop inlets, no amount of plumber's putty, nor teflon tape ever solved
these types of problems. Even a simple J-Trap would start leaking in
less than a year! In defense, it was one of those 'thin' metal ones
from HD and our chemicals ate through its lowest section. THAT taught
me to use plastic, but still...I finally gave up and simply put
plastic glue on the threads. Now THAT worked. but posed other
problems.

I would like to avoid that permanent scenario this time. Future
cutting the pipe out of the wall is not a viable option.

It's likely the plug is there as a code required clean-out,
so you can't use it, now would you want to.
Next, assuming the existing is just a vertical waste line
with no trap, then you need a trap. *And behind that trap
you need a vent line. *That is usually the real fly in the ointment
because unless there is one you can legitimately tie
into, you normally would need to run one all the way
out the roof. * If that isn't feasible, as is often the case
you can use an air admittance valve. *That's basicly
a check valve that allows air into the drain system, but
won't let water flow out. *Then you need a vertical pipe
up to the height of the washer.

So you have to cut out a section of the existing waste
line. *Then you'll add in sequence:

sanitary tee fitting in existing line
air admittance valve or vent line
trap
pipe up to height of top of washer

To glue back into the existing pipe you'll need
REPAIR couplings. *Those look like any other
coupling except they don't have a stop ridge in
the center. *So, you can slide them all the way
on both ends of the new piece then move them
back over the ends of the existing pipe. *A little
tricky and you have to be quick as the glue is
setting. * Alternative is to use a Fernco type on
one end.

Also make sure you use the right materials. *If
existing line is ABS, use that. *If it's PVC use that.
You can't join PVC to ABS by gluing, it's not
permitted by code, at least not here. *You can
use Fernco type couplings, but if it's cheaper and
more reliable to stick with glue where possible.

This is new construction with everything else installed - the hot/cold
pair, 6 inch vent pipe to outside, 220Vac, etc

The drain pipe looks like a 'hurry up and make it look finished so we
can get out of here' cover.

Don't think it's for cleanout since it is a T junction. and cleanouts
tend to be 45 angles elsewhere.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That's a very strange way to leave it and would not seem to have
anything to do with hurrying up. * If it was installed correcly with
a trap and vent, then all that was needed was to glue in about a
4ft section of pipe instead of that fitting and plug. * Is it visible
from
the basement to check for a trap? *Sounds like it's probably there,
but can't hurt to check if possible. * If you have a trap, then all
you need is a piece of 1 1/2" or 2" pipe up to the level of the top of
the
washer and a male adapter that's the same size as the plug to
glue on the end. *Use teflon tape on the threads.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

After posting the above, I took another look and this part is
puzzling:

"Anybody know any good step-by-step instructions for going from a 2
1/4
inch plug in a vertical 'plastic' drain pipe (at the floor level)
inside the wall to the washer's outlet? "

How can you see it and access it if the plug terminating what's
there is inside the wall at floor level? *Perhaps some pics would
help.

In the new construction in these parts, NJ, plumbers
use one of the washer connection box units where the
drain and water supply valves terminate in a recessed box
inside the wall at a height near the top of the washer.

thanks for that one, the box is there for the hot/cold, and saw a
tube, no idea what that was for. Looks like a flexible 3/4 inch OD
creasible type.

I'll see if I can find out whether a trap is in there

there's an 'unfinished hole in the wall to view its contents. A
temporary cosmetic cover was over the hole.