I have a pair of bathroom sinks with the same faucets installed.

http://www.designtool.kohler.com/us/...sp?item=227602

and a matching tub faucet.

one valve stem appears to be leaking, as water comes out the top just
under the T-bar across the top. the tapered piece is screwed onto a
threaded insert, but about 1/2" up from the base where it abuts the sink.

of course, we have extremely hard water and it's probably full of
mineral deposits, because i've been working for a couple days trying to
get it off.

there's nothing to grab onto because of the taper. i've been smacking it
with a hammer trying to vibrate it a bit to break it loose. there's no
way to get vinegar into the inside threads. i've tried putting vinegar
soaked towels around the bottom, to try to hold some acid in, but
there's a pretty good seal on the bottom (there's no water leakage out
the bottom from the leak).

i've managed to get a single non-leaking one off (out of the 6) so that
i could see how it's constructed. these are original to the house, about
10 years, installed by the contractor. there is no other mechanism (such
as setscrews) holding the valve cover on besides the (very fine) threads
on the inside of the cover.

i've tried rubber coated gloves to get a grip on the tapered section.
the T handle can't be used as a lever arm, because it's slipped onto a
ridged part of the top of the valve, and the valve is of course not
moveable.

is there some special tool that can be used to grab something like this
part (tapered, polished chrome) or do i have to destroy the village to
save it? that would be a major expense, having to then destroy all the
others that aren't coming off to replace all 3 sets, along with ripping
a hole in the tiled wall to get to the tub deck (since the d*mn
contractor didn't leave an access hole to get to the bottom of the tub
faucets).

thanks,
charlie

On Feb 22, 1:58*pm, chaniarts wrote:
I have a pair of bathroom sinks with the same faucets installed.

http://www.designtool.kohler.com/us/...sp?item=227602

and a matching tub faucet.

one valve stem appears to be leaking, as water comes out the top just
under the T-bar across the top. the tapered piece is screwed onto a
threaded insert, but about 1/2" up from the base where it abuts the sink.

of course, we have extremely hard water and it's probably full of
mineral deposits, because i've been working for a couple days trying to
get it off.

there's nothing to grab onto because of the taper. i've been smacking it
with a hammer trying to vibrate it a bit to break it loose. there's no
way to get vinegar into the inside threads. i've tried putting vinegar
soaked towels around the bottom, to try to hold some acid in, but
there's a pretty good seal on the bottom (there's no water leakage out
the bottom from the leak).

i've managed to get a single non-leaking one off (out of the 6) so that
i could see how it's constructed. these are original to the house, about
10 years, installed by the contractor. there is no other mechanism (such
as setscrews) holding the valve cover on besides the (very fine) threads
on the inside of the cover.

i've tried rubber coated gloves to get a grip on the tapered section.
the T handle can't be used as a lever arm, because it's slipped onto a
ridged part of the top of the valve, and the valve is of course not
moveable.

is there some special tool that can be used to grab something like this
part (tapered, polished chrome) or do i have to destroy the village to
save it? that would be a major expense, having to then destroy all the
others that aren't coming off to replace all 3 sets, along with ripping
a hole in the tiled wall to get to the tub deck (since the d*mn
contractor didn't leave an access hole to get to the bottom of the tub
faucets).

thanks,
charlie

You might be able to grab it near the top using a
small strap wrench. Harbor Freight has a set
of 3 of them I think for $10. Or you could buy
one at HD, etc.

On Feb 22, 2:02*pm, "
wrote:
On Feb 22, 1:58*pm, chaniarts wrote:





I have a pair of bathroom sinks with the same faucets installed.

http://www.designtool.kohler.com/us/...sp?item=227602

and a matching tub faucet.

one valve stem appears to be leaking, as water comes out the top just
under the T-bar across the top. the tapered piece is screwed onto a
threaded insert, but about 1/2" up from the base where it abuts the sink.

of course, we have extremely hard water and it's probably full of
mineral deposits, because i've been working for a couple days trying to
get it off.

there's nothing to grab onto because of the taper. i've been smacking it
with a hammer trying to vibrate it a bit to break it loose. there's no
way to get vinegar into the inside threads. i've tried putting vinegar
soaked towels around the bottom, to try to hold some acid in, but
there's a pretty good seal on the bottom (there's no water leakage out
the bottom from the leak).

i've managed to get a single non-leaking one off (out of the 6) so that
i could see how it's constructed. these are original to the house, about
10 years, installed by the contractor. there is no other mechanism (such
as setscrews) holding the valve cover on besides the (very fine) threads
on the inside of the cover.

i've tried rubber coated gloves to get a grip on the tapered section.
the T handle can't be used as a lever arm, because it's slipped onto a
ridged part of the top of the valve, and the valve is of course not
moveable.

is there some special tool that can be used to grab something like this
part (tapered, polished chrome) or do i have to destroy the village to
save it? that would be a major expense, having to then destroy all the
others that aren't coming off to replace all 3 sets, along with ripping
a hole in the tiled wall to get to the tub deck (since the d*mn
contractor didn't leave an access hole to get to the bottom of the tub
faucets).

thanks,
charlie

You might be able to grab it near the top using a
small strap wrench. *Harbor Freight has a set
of 3 of them I think for $10. *Or you could buy
one at HD, etc.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You can pick up rubber padding that goes under rugs to keep them from
sliding around. The specific kind I use is an "open weave" and fairly
thin, not solid and bumpy, like some pads.

Here's a picture from Overstock.com:

http://ak2.ostkcdn.com/images/products/L11996906.jpg

Great for preventing objects from sliding, but not really a "pad".

I have various sized pieces of that product for gripping objects that
I need some extra grip to loosen. Much better than rubber gloves.

It also works great to prevent tie-down straps from sliding on
irregularly shaped objects. I use them in my trailer - that was what
they were originally purchased for, but I found they make great
grippers too.

I just used a piece to open a glass jar that I had stored paint in
years ago. The cap was stuck on pretty solid until I used the pad.

On Wed, 22 Feb 2012 13:17:26 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Feb 22, 2:02*pm, "
wrote:
On Feb 22, 1:58*pm, chaniarts wrote:





I have a pair of bathroom sinks with the same faucets installed.

http://www.designtool.kohler.com/us/...sp?item=227602

and a matching tub faucet.

one valve stem appears to be leaking, as water comes out the top just
under the T-bar across the top. the tapered piece is screwed onto a
threaded insert, but about 1/2" up from the base where it abuts the sink.

of course, we have extremely hard water and it's probably full of
mineral deposits, because i've been working for a couple days trying to
get it off.

there's nothing to grab onto because of the taper. i've been smacking it
with a hammer trying to vibrate it a bit to break it loose. there's no
way to get vinegar into the inside threads. i've tried putting vinegar
soaked towels around the bottom, to try to hold some acid in, but
there's a pretty good seal on the bottom (there's no water leakage out
the bottom from the leak).

i've managed to get a single non-leaking one off (out of the 6) so that
i could see how it's constructed. these are original to the house, about
10 years, installed by the contractor. there is no other mechanism (such
as setscrews) holding the valve cover on besides the (very fine) threads
on the inside of the cover.

i've tried rubber coated gloves to get a grip on the tapered section.
the T handle can't be used as a lever arm, because it's slipped onto a
ridged part of the top of the valve, and the valve is of course not
moveable.

is there some special tool that can be used to grab something like this
part (tapered, polished chrome) or do i have to destroy the village to
save it? that would be a major expense, having to then destroy all the
others that aren't coming off to replace all 3 sets, along with ripping
a hole in the tiled wall to get to the tub deck (since the d*mn
contractor didn't leave an access hole to get to the bottom of the tub
faucets).

thanks,
charlie

You might be able to grab it near the top using a
small strap wrench. *Harbor Freight has a set
of 3 of them I think for $10. *Or you could buy
one at HD, etc.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You can pick up rubber padding that goes under rugs to keep them from
sliding around. The specific kind I use is an "open weave" and fairly
thin, not solid and bumpy, like some pads.

Here's a picture from Overstock.com:

http://ak2.ostkcdn.com/images/products/L11996906.jpg

Great for preventing objects from sliding, but not really a "pad".

I have various sized pieces of that product for gripping objects that
I need some extra grip to loosen. Much better than rubber gloves.

It also works great to prevent tie-down straps from sliding on
irregularly shaped objects. I use them in my trailer - that was what
they were originally purchased for, but I found they make great
grippers too.

I just used a piece to open a glass jar that I had stored paint in
years ago. The cap was stuck on pretty solid until I used the pad.

In a pinch, cut a piece of leather from an old belt and use common
pliers. Wrap it around the finish needing protection, then turn.

Worked for me on a shower head...

+ 1 on the rubber strap wrench.

On Feb 22, 4:17*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Feb 22, 2:02*pm, "
wrote:





On Feb 22, 1:58*pm, chaniarts wrote:

I have a pair of bathroom sinks with the same faucets installed.

http://www.designtool.kohler.com/us/...sp?item=227602

and a matching tub faucet.

one valve stem appears to be leaking, as water comes out the top just
under the T-bar across the top. the tapered piece is screwed onto a
threaded insert, but about 1/2" up from the base where it abuts the sink.

of course, we have extremely hard water and it's probably full of
mineral deposits, because i've been working for a couple days trying to
get it off.

there's nothing to grab onto because of the taper. i've been smacking it
with a hammer trying to vibrate it a bit to break it loose. there's no
way to get vinegar into the inside threads. i've tried putting vinegar
soaked towels around the bottom, to try to hold some acid in, but
there's a pretty good seal on the bottom (there's no water leakage out
the bottom from the leak).

i've managed to get a single non-leaking one off (out of the 6) so that
i could see how it's constructed. these are original to the house, about
10 years, installed by the contractor. there is no other mechanism (such
as setscrews) holding the valve cover on besides the (very fine) threads
on the inside of the cover.

i've tried rubber coated gloves to get a grip on the tapered section.
the T handle can't be used as a lever arm, because it's slipped onto a
ridged part of the top of the valve, and the valve is of course not
moveable.

is there some special tool that can be used to grab something like this
part (tapered, polished chrome) or do i have to destroy the village to
save it? that would be a major expense, having to then destroy all the
others that aren't coming off to replace all 3 sets, along with ripping
a hole in the tiled wall to get to the tub deck (since the d*mn
contractor didn't leave an access hole to get to the bottom of the tub
faucets).

thanks,
charlie

You might be able to grab it near the top using a
small strap wrench. *Harbor Freight has a set
of 3 of them I think for $10. *Or you could buy
one at HD, etc.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You can pick up rubber padding that goes under rugs to keep them from
sliding around. The specific kind I use is an "open weave" and fairly
thin, not solid and bumpy, like some pads.

Here's a picture from Overstock.com:

http://ak2.ostkcdn.com/images/products/L11996906.jpg

Great for preventing objects from sliding, but not really a "pad".

I have various sized pieces of that product for gripping objects that
I need some extra grip to loosen. Much better than rubber gloves.

It also works great to prevent tie-down straps from sliding on
irregularly shaped objects. I use them in my trailer - that was what
they were originally purchased for, but I found they make great
grippers too.

I just used a piece to open a glass jar that I had stored paint in
years ago. The cap was stuck on pretty solid until I used the pad.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There is also the draw liner material that you can pick
up at Walmart, BedBath Beyond or similar that's used
for refrigerator drawers and similar. Same idea.
It's an open weave, rubbery kind of material. In a
refrigerator the idea is you use it in the veg drawer
so there is some air circulation under the vegs.

On Feb 22, 12:58*pm, chaniarts wrote:
I have a pair of bathroom sinks with the same faucets installed.

http://www.designtool.kohler.com/us/...sp?item=227602

and a matching tub faucet.

one valve stem appears to be leaking, as water comes out the top just
under the T-bar across the top. the tapered piece is screwed onto a
threaded insert, but about 1/2" up from the base where it abuts the sink.

of course, we have extremely hard water and it's probably full of
mineral deposits, because i've been working for a couple days trying to
get it off.

snip

Remove the whole sink assembly(s) and take it to your workshop.
Upside down on the bench supported by 2 x 4's your can attack the
frozen bottom retaining nuts with Kroil or your favorite penetrant and
the proper size wenches.
For the tub, now is the time to make a proper rear access panel for
this and future repairs.

Joe
Since 10 YO fixtures are involved, replacement my be your best
recourse.

chaniarts wrote in news:ji3dsl$mus$1@dont-
email.me:

I have a pair of bathroom sinks with the same faucets installed.

http://www.designtool.kohler.com/us/...sp?item=227602

and a matching tub faucet.

one valve stem appears to be leaking, as water comes out the top just
under the T-bar across the top. the tapered piece is screwed onto a
threaded insert, but about 1/2" up from the base where it abuts the sink.

of course, we have extremely hard water and it's probably full of
mineral deposits, because i've been working for a couple days trying to
get it off.

there's nothing to grab onto because of the taper. i've been smacking it
with a hammer trying to vibrate it a bit to break it loose.



I'm a bit surprised that you're doing that.

I just spent a bit of idle time noodling around on the the Kohler site,
starting with the link you posted above. Kohler has some pretty detailed
diagrams showing the construction of their products. It's decent technical
illustration, but if it were me doing it (tech illustration is part of my
job), I'd somehow indicate the continuity with related components on other
pages, to show how they connect.

It /appears/ as though the lavatory handles are held on by screws from
underneath. And it /appears/ as though the bath handles are held on by
spring-clips which are accessed by levering the trim plates away from the
tiles, then using a slim hook of some kind to pull out the clip.


--
Tegger

On Feb 22, 10:58*am, chaniarts wrote:
I have a pair of bathroom sinks with the same faucets installed.

http://www.designtool.kohler.com/us/...sp?item=227602

and a matching tub faucet.

one valve stem appears to be leaking, as water comes out the top just
under the T-bar across the top. the tapered piece is screwed onto a
threaded insert, but about 1/2" up from the base where it abuts the sink.

of course, we have extremely hard water and it's probably full of
mineral deposits, because i've been working for a couple days trying to
get it off.

there's nothing to grab onto because of the taper. i've been smacking it
with a hammer trying to vibrate it a bit to break it loose. there's no
way to get vinegar into the inside threads. i've tried putting vinegar
soaked towels around the bottom, to try to hold some acid in, but
there's a pretty good seal on the bottom (there's no water leakage out
the bottom from the leak).

i've managed to get a single non-leaking one off (out of the 6) so that
i could see how it's constructed. these are original to the house, about
10 years, installed by the contractor. there is no other mechanism (such
as setscrews) holding the valve cover on besides the (very fine) threads
on the inside of the cover.

i've tried rubber coated gloves to get a grip on the tapered section.
the T handle can't be used as a lever arm, because it's slipped onto a
ridged part of the top of the valve, and the valve is of course not
moveable.

is there some special tool that can be used to grab something like this
part (tapered, polished chrome) or do i have to destroy the village to
save it? that would be a major expense, having to then destroy all the
others that aren't coming off to replace all 3 sets, along with ripping
a hole in the tiled wall to get to the tub deck (since the d*mn
contractor didn't leave an access hole to get to the bottom of the tub
faucets).

thanks,
charlie

Stop using a hammer.

check out

http://www.kohlerserviceparts.kohler...746107 cfb600

the diagram is a bit generic but it does help some


Remove attachments from below the sink. Remove nut that holds valve
assembly in place.

If you cannot turn it...cut the nut with multi-tool or dremel mini
rotary rasp.

Once you've removed the nut you'll be able to lift out the valve
assembly and work onto on a bench.


cheers
Bob

On 2/22/2012 3:03 PM, Joe wrote:
On Feb 22, 12:58 pm, wrote:
I have a pair of bathroom sinks with the same faucets installed.

http://www.designtool.kohler.com/us/...sp?item=227602

and a matching tub faucet.

one valve stem appears to be leaking, as water comes out the top just
under the T-bar across the top. the tapered piece is screwed onto a
threaded insert, but about 1/2" up from the base where it abuts the sink.

of course, we have extremely hard water and it's probably full of
mineral deposits, because i've been working for a couple days trying to
get it off.

snip

Remove the whole sink assembly(s) and take it to your workshop.
Upside down on the bench supported by 2 x 4's your can attack the
frozen bottom retaining nuts with Kroil or your favorite penetrant and
the proper size wenches.
For the tub, now is the time to make a proper rear access panel for
this and future repairs.

Joe
Since 10 YO fixtures are involved, replacement my be your best
recourse.

the bottom nuts aren't frozen. the nut that is frozen is internal to the
cover over the faucet on the top side of the basin.

On 2/22/2012 8:23 PM, Tegger wrote:
wrote in news:ji3dsl$mus$1@dont-
email.me:

I have a pair of bathroom sinks with the same faucets installed.

http://www.designtool.kohler.com/us/...sp?item=227602

and a matching tub faucet.

one valve stem appears to be leaking, as water comes out the top just
under the T-bar across the top. the tapered piece is screwed onto a
threaded insert, but about 1/2" up from the base where it abuts the sink.

of course, we have extremely hard water and it's probably full of
mineral deposits, because i've been working for a couple days trying to
get it off.

there's nothing to grab onto because of the taper. i've been smacking it
with a hammer trying to vibrate it a bit to break it loose.



I'm a bit surprised that you're doing that.

I just spent a bit of idle time noodling around on the the Kohler site,
starting with the link you posted above. Kohler has some pretty detailed
diagrams showing the construction of their products. It's decent technical
illustration, but if it were me doing it (tech illustration is part of my
job), I'd somehow indicate the continuity with related components on other
pages, to show how they connect.

It /appears/ as though the lavatory handles are held on by screws from
underneath. And it /appears/ as though the bath handles are held on by
spring-clips which are accessed by levering the trim plates away from the
tiles, then using a slim hook of some kind to pull out the clip.



i'm not sure what you're looking at.

i've already taken one off, so i know exactly how it's attached. the
valve remains attached to the basin via a nut under the basin, and one
on top of the basin under the covering i'm trying to remove the top nut
that has both internal threads (that the valve screws into, and external
threads (that the covering screws onto).

the cover simply screws off counterclockwise. one holds the T handle in
place and twists the cover. the T handle is attached via a swiveling
interface to the cover, and is not removable. it slips onto the ridged
top of the valve, and there is no attachment to the valve besides a slip
on press fit.

the problem is that the external threads that connect the nut and cover
most probably have mineral deposits, and there's no way to get vinegar
into the inside of the cover, so the cover won't rotate.

there are no trim plates or clips of any kind.

see part # 59425 in
http://www.kohlerserviceparts.kohler.com/ServicePartsPage.aspx?DocumentID=6b98dfbc1de946ad8 71337c4bda3bd3d&ModelID=7e26edaf142d4ddfb180746107 cfb600

it's the middle part explosion of the 3 on this page.

as to the other suggestions:

* I'll have to try a strap wrench. it'll have to be plenty strong though
* i used those ridged rubber coated gloves that allow one to open things
(jars, etc). it's pretty much the equivalent of using the rubber waffle
matting. that didn't work at all on these stuck ones, although it did
allow me to remove the only one that did come off. i could try putting a
thick piece of leather over the rubber gloves and trying a wrench, but
it's high polished chrome, and really slippery. i doubt that would give
enough purchase until the wrench teeth bit into the metal. at that
point, i might as well destroy it to remove it.
* the basin is really a pedestal sink top mounted to the top of the
vanity. there's no access under the values to remove them without
ripping holes in the countertop. to remove the basin would require
removing a large part of the tiled countertop.

On 2/22/2012 8:35 PM, DD_BobK wrote:
On Feb 22, 10:58 am, wrote:
I have a pair of bathroom sinks with the same faucets installed.

http://www.designtool.kohler.com/us/...sp?item=227602

and a matching tub faucet.

one valve stem appears to be leaking, as water comes out the top just
under the T-bar across the top. the tapered piece is screwed onto a
threaded insert, but about 1/2" up from the base where it abuts the sink.

of course, we have extremely hard water and it's probably full of
mineral deposits, because i've been working for a couple days trying to
get it off.

there's nothing to grab onto because of the taper. i've been smacking it
with a hammer trying to vibrate it a bit to break it loose. there's no
way to get vinegar into the inside threads. i've tried putting vinegar
soaked towels around the bottom, to try to hold some acid in, but
there's a pretty good seal on the bottom (there's no water leakage out
the bottom from the leak).

i've managed to get a single non-leaking one off (out of the 6) so that
i could see how it's constructed. these are original to the house, about
10 years, installed by the contractor. there is no other mechanism (such
as setscrews) holding the valve cover on besides the (very fine) threads
on the inside of the cover.

i've tried rubber coated gloves to get a grip on the tapered section.
the T handle can't be used as a lever arm, because it's slipped onto a
ridged part of the top of the valve, and the valve is of course not
moveable.

is there some special tool that can be used to grab something like this
part (tapered, polished chrome) or do i have to destroy the village to
save it? that would be a major expense, having to then destroy all the
others that aren't coming off to replace all 3 sets, along with ripping
a hole in the tiled wall to get to the tub deck (since the d*mn
contractor didn't leave an access hole to get to the bottom of the tub
faucets).

thanks,
charlie

Stop using a hammer.

check out

http://www.kohlerserviceparts.kohler...746107 cfb600

the diagram is a bit generic but it does help some


Remove attachments from below the sink. Remove nut that holds valve
assembly in place.

If you cannot turn it...cut the nut with multi-tool or dremel mini
rotary rasp.

Once you've removed the nut you'll be able to lift out the valve
assembly and work onto on a bench.


cheers
Bob

the way the basin is mounted to the counter, there is no access to the
bottom nut. i would have to destroy the counter to get to it.

it isn't exactly how i would have built this, but i'm stuck with it.

this was a 10 minute 'honey can you pop a new o-ring into the faucet'
job that has morphed into rehabbing 2 counters and the tub deck. i might
as well rip it all down to the studs and start over, at this point,
which is a new raised bar for short jobs turning into major house
projects. usually i can get them done with only 3 trips to home depot.

On Thu, 23 Feb 2012 14:03:27 -0700, chaniarts
wrote:

the problem is that the external threads that connect the nut and cover
most probably have mineral deposits, and there's no way to get vinegar
into the inside of the cover, so the cover won't rotate.

there are no trim plates or clips of any kind.

see part # 59425 in
http://www.kohlerserviceparts.kohler.com/ServicePartsPage.aspx?DocumentID=6b98dfbc1de946ad8 71337c4bda3bd3d&ModelID=7e26edaf142d4ddfb180746107 cfb600

it's the middle part explosion of the 3 on this page.

Try this: Use plumber's putty, rolling out a "rope" ( half inch thick
or better) then surround the part. Pour vinegar into the "pool",
allowing it to soak over night -- try again.

The putty will hold the acid (white vinegar).

"chaniarts" wrote in message
...

stuff snipped

this was a 10 minute 'honey can you pop a new o-ring into the faucet'
job that has morphed into rehabbing 2 counters and the tub deck. i might
as well rip it all down to the studs and start over, at this point,
which is a new raised bar for short jobs turning into major house
projects. usually i can get them done with only 3 trips to home depot.

Jeez. Been there, done that. Replace a wall switch, break a wire. Rewire,
replaster, repaint. Same with a leaky toilet shut off valve that had
actually stopped leaking because of mineral deposits. Yanking on the pipe
to pull the valves cracked a T joint behind the wall. Rip up tiles, rip out
old galvanized pipe, repair and retile.

I hope the strap wrench works out for you. It sounds like the plumbing job
from hell. Remember, it could always be worse: at least this job doesn't
involve raw sewage.

--
Bobby G.

On Feb 23, 1:07*pm, chaniarts wrote:
On 2/22/2012 8:35 PM, DD_BobK wrote:









On Feb 22, 10:58 am, *wrote:
I have a pair of bathroom sinks with the same faucets installed.

http://www.designtool.kohler.com/us/...sp?item=227602

and a matching tub faucet.

one valve stem appears to be leaking, as water comes out the top just
under the T-bar across the top. the tapered piece is screwed onto a
threaded insert, but about 1/2" up from the base where it abuts the sink.

of course, we have extremely hard water and it's probably full of
mineral deposits, because i've been working for a couple days trying to
get it off.

there's nothing to grab onto because of the taper. i've been smacking it
with a hammer trying to vibrate it a bit to break it loose. there's no
way to get vinegar into the inside threads. i've tried putting vinegar
soaked towels around the bottom, to try to hold some acid in, but
there's a pretty good seal on the bottom (there's no water leakage out
the bottom from the leak).

i've managed to get a single non-leaking one off (out of the 6) so that
i could see how it's constructed. these are original to the house, about
10 years, installed by the contractor. there is no other mechanism (such
as setscrews) holding the valve cover on besides the (very fine) threads
on the inside of the cover.

i've tried rubber coated gloves to get a grip on the tapered section.
the T handle can't be used as a lever arm, because it's slipped onto a
ridged part of the top of the valve, and the valve is of course not
moveable.

is there some special tool that can be used to grab something like this
part (tapered, polished chrome) or do i have to destroy the village to
save it? that would be a major expense, having to then destroy all the
others that aren't coming off to replace all 3 sets, along with ripping
a hole in the tiled wall to get to the tub deck (since the d*mn
contractor didn't leave an access hole to get to the bottom of the tub
faucets).

thanks,
charlie

Stop using a hammer.

check out

http://www.kohlerserviceparts.kohler...ge.aspx?Docume...

the diagram is a bit generic but it does help some

Remove attachments from below the sink. Remove nut that holds valve
assembly in place.

If you cannot turn it...cut the nut with multi-tool or dremel mini
rotary rasp.

Once you've removed the nut you'll be able to lift out the valve
assembly and work onto on a bench.

cheers
Bob

the way the basin is mounted to the counter, there is no access to the
bottom nut. i would have to destroy the counter to get to it.

it isn't exactly how i would have built this, but i'm stuck with it.

this was a 10 minute 'honey can you pop a new o-ring into the faucet'
job that has morphed into rehabbing 2 counters and the tub deck. i might
as well rip it all down to the studs and start over, at this point,
which is a new raised bar for short jobs turning into major house
projects. usually i can get them done with only 3 trips to home depot.

If there is no access to the bottom nut then you should consider
Joe's suggestions

"Remove the whole sink assembly(s) and take it to your workshop.
Upside down on the bench supported by 2 x 4's your can attack the
frozen bottom retaining nuts with Kroil or your favorite penetrant
and
the proper size wenches."

You need the valve assembly free some the since so you can soak it in
something to get rid of the hard water deposits.

When everything is new & clean those cute tapered covers just spin on
& off by hand.
After 10 years of hard water......not so easy.


If there is no access (maybe it;s possible just not easy?) then how
will you replace the valve when they need replacing?

The original installer must have mounted the faucet & then glued the
counter top in place?

cheers
Bob