I have a buried water line with is 3/4 blue pipe, probably
polybutylene, that was put in 30 years ago that I need
to connect to 3/4 CPVC line.

I’ve heard that regular CPVC couplings and cement are
not a good way to do it.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make
the connection properly ?

Thanks

On Feb 7, 5:39*pm, Bob123 wrote:
I have a buried water line with is 3/4 blue pipe, probably
polybutylene, that was put in 30 years ago that I need
to connect to 3/4 CPVC line.

I’ve heard that regular CPVC couplings and cement are
not a good way to do it.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make
the connection properly ?

* * * * * * * * *Thanks


I had that stuff in my boat and it was discontinued
due to problems. Here's the bad news:

http://www.propex.com/C_f_env_polybu.htm

http://www.polybutylene.com/poly.html


And the good news if you decide to co-exist with it:

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/polyb.html

Looks like Sharkbite that are available at HD
might be approprate too.

The problem is that now that it's old and getting
more brittle, it's probably going to be like working
with nitro. Like after you tighten up a new fitting
how do you know the pipe isn't now going to fail
a month later because it can't handle the extra
stress? On my boat I only had 50 gallons of
water to worry about and two bilge pumps
As Clint Eastwood would say, "So, how lucky
do you feel?"

On Feb 7, 5:39*pm, Bob123 wrote:
I have a buried water line with is 3/4 blue pipe, probably
polybutylene, that was put in 30 years ago that I need
to connect to 3/4 CPVC line.

I’ve heard that regular CPVC couplings and cement are
not a good way to do it.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make
the connection properly ?

* * * * * * * * *Thanks

Sharkbite connectors work with poly and cpvc.
Jimmie

On Feb 7, 10:15 pm, JIMMIE wrote:
On Feb 7, 5:39 pm, Bob123 wrote:

I have a buried water line with is 3/4 blue pipe, probably
polybutylene, that was put in 30 years ago that I need
to connect to 3/4 CPVC line.

I’ve heard that regular CPVC couplings and cement are
not a good way to do it.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make
the connection properly ?

Thanks

Sharkbite connectors work with poly and cpvc.
Jimmie

Yes. I looked up the website and saw the connector and it
looks like it will do the job.

Do you or trader4 have an opinion on whether the Sharkbite
works better than a crimped Poly/CPVC connection ??

I've seen a crimping tool for about 40 bucks and might come
in handy in the future, and the Sharkbite connectors are
around $9 each for 3/4, so a crimped joint would be about
a wash in cost for my present application....

Thanks. Bob123

On Feb 8, 6:08*am, Bob123 wrote:
On Feb 7, 10:15 pm, JIMMIE wrote:





On Feb 7, 5:39 pm, Bob123 wrote:

I have a buried water line with is 3/4 blue pipe, probably
polybutylene, that was put in 30 years ago that I need
to connect to 3/4 CPVC line.

I’ve heard that regular CPVC couplings and cement are
not a good way to do it.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make
the connection properly ?

* * * * * * * * *Thanks

Sharkbite connectors work with poly and cpvc.
Jimmie

Yes. *I looked up the website and saw the connector and it
looks like it will do the job.

*Do you or trader4 have an opinion on whether the Sharkbite
works better than a crimped Poly/CPVC connection ??

I've seen a crimping tool for about 40 bucks and might come
in handy in the future, and the Sharkbite connectors are
around $9 each for 3/4, so a crimped joint would be about
a wash in cost for my present application....

Thanks. * * Bob123- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I don't have any experience as to which is better.
But my guess would be that since you have an
old plastic pipe that is known to fail because of
deterioration of the plastic, that the Sharkbite or
similar where you can better control the amount
of pressure the fitting is applying would be better.

If it were me, I'd consider replacing the poly out to
the curb. But that also depends on the consequences
if it fails, ie exactly where it's located and what would
happen if it suddenly bursts.

On Feb 7, 8:36*pm, "
wrote:
On Feb 7, 5:39*pm, Bob123 wrote:

I have a buried water line with is 3/4 blue pipe, probably
polybutylene, that was put in 30 years ago that I need
to connect to 3/4 CPVC line.

I’ve heard that regular CPVC couplings and cement are
not a good way to do it.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make
the connection properly ?

* * * * * * * * *Thanks

I had that stuff in my boat and it was discontinued
due to problems. *Here's the bad news:

http://www.propex.com/C_f_env_polybu.htm

http://www.polybutylene.com/poly.html

And the good news if you decide to co-exist with it:

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/polyb.html

Looks like Sharkbite that are available at HD
might be approprate too.

The problem is that now that it's old and getting
more brittle, it's probably going to be like working
with nitro. * Like after you tighten up a new fitting
how do you know the pipe isn't now going to fail
a month later because it can't handle the extra
stress? *On my boat I only had 50 gallons of
water to worry about and two bilge pumps
As Clint Eastwood would say, "So, how lucky
do you feel?"

Actually, what Clint Eastwood said was:

"You've got to ask yourself one question: 'Do I feel lucky?' Well, do
ya punk?”

On Feb 8, 6:28 am, "
wrote:
On Feb 8, 6:08 am, Bob123 wrote:



On Feb 7, 10:15 pm, JIMMIE wrote:

On Feb 7, 5:39 pm, Bob123 wrote:

I have a buried water line with is 3/4 blue pipe, probably
polybutylene, that was put in 30 years ago that I need
to connect to 3/4 CPVC line.

I’ve heard that regular CPVC couplings and cement are
not a good way to do it.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make
the connection properly ?

Thanks

Sharkbite connectors work with poly and cpvc.
Jimmie

Yes. I looked up the website and saw the connector and it
looks like it will do the job.

Do you or trader4 have an opinion on whether the Sharkbite
works better than a crimped Poly/CPVC connection ??

I've seen a crimping tool for about 40 bucks and might come
in handy in the future, and the Sharkbite connectors are
around $9 each for 3/4, so a crimped joint would be about
a wash in cost for my present application....

Thanks. Bob123- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I don't have any experience as to which is better.
But my guess would be that since you have an
old plastic pipe that is known to fail because of
deterioration of the plastic, that the Sharkbite or
similar where you can better control the amount
of pressure the fitting is applying would be better.

If it were me, I'd consider replacing the poly out to
the curb. But that also depends on the consequences
if it fails, ie exactly where it's located and what would
happen if it suddenly bursts.

Thanks,
After reading lots of stuff, I've decided to find my
my mattock and spade and dig another trench for
CPVC to the meter head....
Sometimes, claptrapping stuff together, when there's a
lot of "disagreements" as to the quality, is best approached
by working one's ass off for a few hours....
Fortunately, I only have 50-60 feet to dig... and I don't
have a "frost line" in my location and no required inspections
so I only need 12 inches of depth ------

I can do that in 5-6 sixpacks......

Thanks to all for the opinions.

..... Oh, and if any other readers have some knowledge
of a better way, which is easier, and more reliable....
please reply to this thread with your information...

Bob123

On 2/8/2012 10:29 AM, Bob123 wrote:
On Feb 8, 6:28 am,
wrote:
On Feb 8, 6:08 am, wrote:



On Feb 7, 10:15 pm, wrote:

On Feb 7, 5:39 pm, wrote:

I have a buried water line with is 3/4 blue pipe, probably
polybutylene, that was put in 30 years ago that I need
to connect to 3/4 CPVC line.

I’ve heard that regular CPVC couplings and cement are
not a good way to do it.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make
the connection properly ?

Thanks

Sharkbite connectors work with poly and cpvc.
Jimmie

Yes. I looked up the website and saw the connector and it
looks like it will do the job.

Do you or trader4 have an opinion on whether the Sharkbite
works better than a crimped Poly/CPVC connection ??

I've seen a crimping tool for about 40 bucks and might come
in handy in the future, and the Sharkbite connectors are
around $9 each for 3/4, so a crimped joint would be about
a wash in cost for my present application....

Thanks. Bob123- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I don't have any experience as to which is better.
But my guess would be that since you have an
old plastic pipe that is known to fail because of
deterioration of the plastic, that the Sharkbite or
similar where you can better control the amount
of pressure the fitting is applying would be better.

If it were me, I'd consider replacing the poly out to
the curb. But that also depends on the consequences
if it fails, ie exactly where it's located and what would
happen if it suddenly bursts.

Thanks,
After reading lots of stuff, I've decided to find my
my mattock and spade and dig another trench for
CPVC to the meter head....
Sometimes, claptrapping stuff together, when there's a
lot of "disagreements" as to the quality, is best approached
by working one's ass off for a few hours....
Fortunately, I only have 50-60 feet to dig... and I don't
have a "frost line" in my location and no required inspections
so I only need 12 inches of depth ------

I can do that in 5-6 sixpacks......

Thanks to all for the opinions.

.... Oh, and if any other readers have some knowledge
of a better way, which is easier, and more reliable....
please reply to this thread with your information...

Bob123








i'm not sure cpvc is rated for burial. You'd be a lot better off with
3/4 soft copper. That's the standard at least where i live, it's required.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Feb 8, 12:02*pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 2/8/2012 10:29 AM, Bob123 wrote:





On Feb 8, 6:28 am,
wrote:
On Feb 8, 6:08 am, *wrote:

On Feb 7, 10:15 pm, *wrote:

On Feb 7, 5:39 pm, *wrote:

I have a buried water line with is 3/4 blue pipe, probably
polybutylene, that was put in 30 years ago that I need
to connect to 3/4 CPVC line.

I’ve heard that regular CPVC couplings and cement are
not a good way to do it.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make
the connection properly ?

* * * * * * * * * Thanks

Sharkbite connectors work with poly and cpvc.
Jimmie

Yes. *I looked up the website and saw the connector and it
looks like it will do the job.

* Do you or trader4 have an opinion on whether the Sharkbite
works better than a crimped Poly/CPVC connection ??

I've seen a crimping tool for about 40 bucks and might come
in handy in the future, and the Sharkbite connectors are
around $9 each for 3/4, so a crimped joint would be about
a wash in cost for my present application....

Thanks. * * Bob123- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I don't have any experience as to which is better.
But my guess would be that since you have an
old plastic pipe that is known to fail because of
deterioration of the plastic, that the Sharkbite or
similar where you can better control the amount
of pressure the fitting is applying would be better.

If it were me, I'd consider replacing the poly out to
the curb. *But that also depends on the consequences
if it fails, ie exactly where it's located and what would
happen if it suddenly bursts.

Thanks,
* * After reading lots of stuff, I've decided to find my
my mattock and spade and dig another trench for
CPVC to the meter head....
* * Sometimes, claptrapping stuff together, when there's a
lot of "disagreements" as to the quality, is best approached
by working one's ass off for a few hours....
* * Fortunately, I only have 50-60 feet to dig... and I don't
have a "frost line" in my location and no required inspections
so I only need 12 inches of depth ------

I can do that in 5-6 sixpacks......

Thanks to all for the opinions.

.... Oh, and if any other readers have some knowledge
of a better way, which is easier, and more reliable....
please reply to this thread with your information...

* * * * * * * * * * * * *Bob123

i'm not sure cpvc is rated for burial. *You'd be a lot better off with
3/4 soft copper. *That's the standard at least where i live, it's required.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

or PEX. and go with one inch its so cheap it doesnt matter, and has no
joints to ever come apart, and no copper to be stolen

On Feb 8, 12:12*pm, bob haller wrote:
On Feb 8, 12:02*pm, Steve Barker wrote:





On 2/8/2012 10:29 AM, Bob123 wrote:

On Feb 8, 6:28 am,
wrote:
On Feb 8, 6:08 am, *wrote:

On Feb 7, 10:15 pm, *wrote:

On Feb 7, 5:39 pm, *wrote:

I have a buried water line with is 3/4 blue pipe, probably
polybutylene, that was put in 30 years ago that I need
to connect to 3/4 CPVC line.

I’ve heard that regular CPVC couplings and cement are
not a good way to do it.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make
the connection properly ?

* * * * * * * * * Thanks

Sharkbite connectors work with poly and cpvc.
Jimmie

Yes. *I looked up the website and saw the connector and it
looks like it will do the job.

* Do you or trader4 have an opinion on whether the Sharkbite
works better than a crimped Poly/CPVC connection ??

I've seen a crimping tool for about 40 bucks and might come
in handy in the future, and the Sharkbite connectors are
around $9 each for 3/4, so a crimped joint would be about
a wash in cost for my present application....

Thanks. * * Bob123- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I don't have any experience as to which is better.
But my guess would be that since you have an
old plastic pipe that is known to fail because of
deterioration of the plastic, that the Sharkbite or
similar where you can better control the amount
of pressure the fitting is applying would be better.

If it were me, I'd consider replacing the poly out to
the curb. *But that also depends on the consequences
if it fails, ie exactly where it's located and what would
happen if it suddenly bursts.

Thanks,
* * After reading lots of stuff, I've decided to find my
my mattock and spade and dig another trench for
CPVC to the meter head....
* * Sometimes, claptrapping stuff together, when there's a
lot of "disagreements" as to the quality, is best approached
by working one's ass off for a few hours....
* * Fortunately, I only have 50-60 feet to dig... and I don't
have a "frost line" in my location and no required inspections
so I only need 12 inches of depth ------

I can do that in 5-6 sixpacks......

Thanks to all for the opinions.

.... Oh, and if any other readers have some knowledge
of a better way, which is easier, and more reliable....
please reply to this thread with your information...

* * * * * * * * * * * * *Bob123

i'm not sure cpvc is rated for burial. *You'd be a lot better off with
3/4 soft copper. *That's the standard at least where i live, it's required.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

or PEX. and go with one inch its so cheap it doesnt matter, and has no
joints to ever come apart, and no copper to be stolen- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Or 1" polyethylene, which would be even cheaper. I think
that's what they are using here in NJ in new construction
to go to the curb. Whatever it is, It's black, looks like
the poly pipe used for sprinklers, gets connected inside the
house with a barb fitting and double clamp. Copper for
60ft would be one hell of an expense.

"Bob123" wrote in message
...
I have a buried water line with is 3/4 blue pipe, probably
polybutylene, that was put in 30 years ago that I need
to connect to 3/4 CPVC line.

I’ve heard that regular CPVC couplings and cement are
not a good way to do it.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make
the connection properly ?



Just sweat them together. Don't forget to use flux.

On 2/8/2012 11:52 AM, wrote:
On Feb 8, 12:12 pm, bob wrote:
On Feb 8, 12:02 pm, Steve wrote:





On 2/8/2012 10:29 AM, Bob123 wrote:

On Feb 8, 6:28 am,
wrote:
On Feb 8, 6:08 am, wrote:

On Feb 7, 10:15 pm, wrote:

On Feb 7, 5:39 pm, wrote:

I have a buried water line with is 3/4 blue pipe, probably
polybutylene, that was put in 30 years ago that I need
to connect to 3/4 CPVC line.

I’ve heard that regular CPVC couplings and cement are
not a good way to do it.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make
the connection properly ?

Thanks

Sharkbite connectors work with poly and cpvc.
Jimmie

Yes. I looked up the website and saw the connector and it
looks like it will do the job.

Do you or trader4 have an opinion on whether the Sharkbite
works better than a crimped Poly/CPVC connection ??

I've seen a crimping tool for about 40 bucks and might come
in handy in the future, and the Sharkbite connectors are
around $9 each for 3/4, so a crimped joint would be about
a wash in cost for my present application....

Thanks. Bob123- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I don't have any experience as to which is better.
But my guess would be that since you have an
old plastic pipe that is known to fail because of
deterioration of the plastic, that the Sharkbite or
similar where you can better control the amount
of pressure the fitting is applying would be better.

If it were me, I'd consider replacing the poly out to
the curb. But that also depends on the consequences
if it fails, ie exactly where it's located and what would
happen if it suddenly bursts.

Thanks,
After reading lots of stuff, I've decided to find my
my mattock and spade and dig another trench for
CPVC to the meter head....
Sometimes, claptrapping stuff together, when there's a
lot of "disagreements" as to the quality, is best approached
by working one's ass off for a few hours....
Fortunately, I only have 50-60 feet to dig... and I don't
have a "frost line" in my location and no required inspections
so I only need 12 inches of depth ------

I can do that in 5-6 sixpacks......

Thanks to all for the opinions.

.... Oh, and if any other readers have some knowledge
of a better way, which is easier, and more reliable....
please reply to this thread with your information...

Bob123

i'm not sure cpvc is rated for burial. You'd be a lot better off with
3/4 soft copper. That's the standard at least where i live, it's required.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

or PEX. and go with one inch its so cheap it doesnt matter, and has no
joints to ever come apart, and no copper to be stolen- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Or 1" polyethylene, which would be even cheaper. I think
that's what they are using here in NJ in new construction
to go to the curb. Whatever it is, It's black, looks like
the poly pipe used for sprinklers, gets connected inside the
house with a barb fitting and double clamp. Copper for
60ft would be one hell of an expense.

about 4 buck a foot. cheap for a permanent solution.


--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Feb 8, 2:38*pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 2/8/2012 11:52 AM, wrote:





On Feb 8, 12:12 pm, bob *wrote:
On Feb 8, 12:02 pm, Steve *wrote:

On 2/8/2012 10:29 AM, Bob123 wrote:

On Feb 8, 6:28 am,
wrote:
On Feb 8, 6:08 am, * *wrote:

On Feb 7, 10:15 pm, * *wrote:

On Feb 7, 5:39 pm, * *wrote:

I have a buried water line with is 3/4 blue pipe, probably
polybutylene, that was put in 30 years ago that I need
to connect to 3/4 CPVC line.

I’ve heard that regular CPVC couplings and cement are
not a good way to do it.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make
the connection properly ?

* * * * * * * * * *Thanks

Sharkbite connectors work with poly and cpvc.
Jimmie

Yes. *I looked up the website and saw the connector and it
looks like it will do the job.

* *Do you or trader4 have an opinion on whether the Sharkbite
works better than a crimped Poly/CPVC connection ??

I've seen a crimping tool for about 40 bucks and might come
in handy in the future, and the Sharkbite connectors are
around $9 each for 3/4, so a crimped joint would be about
a wash in cost for my present application....

Thanks. * * Bob123- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I don't have any experience as to which is better.
But my guess would be that since you have an
old plastic pipe that is known to fail because of
deterioration of the plastic, that the Sharkbite or
similar where you can better control the amount
of pressure the fitting is applying would be better.

If it were me, I'd consider replacing the poly out to
the curb. *But that also depends on the consequences
if it fails, ie exactly where it's located and what would
happen if it suddenly bursts.

Thanks,
* * *After reading lots of stuff, I've decided to find my
my mattock and spade and dig another trench for
CPVC to the meter head....
* * *Sometimes, claptrapping stuff together, when there's a
lot of "disagreements" as to the quality, is best approached
by working one's ass off for a few hours....
* * *Fortunately, I only have 50-60 feet to dig... and I don't
have a "frost line" in my location and no required inspections
so I only need 12 inches of depth ------

I can do that in 5-6 sixpacks......

Thanks to all for the opinions.

.... Oh, and if any other readers have some knowledge
of a better way, which is easier, and more reliable....
please reply to this thread with your information...

* * * * * * * * * * * * * Bob123

i'm not sure cpvc is rated for burial. *You'd be a lot better off with
3/4 soft copper. *That's the standard at least where i live, it's required.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

or PEX. and go with one inch its so cheap it doesnt matter, and has no
joints to ever come apart, and no copper to be stolen- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Or 1" polyethylene, which would be even cheaper. *I think
that's what they are using here in NJ in new construction
to go to the curb. *Whatever it is, It's black, looks like
the poly pipe used for sprinklers, gets connected inside the
house with a barb fitting and double clamp. *Copper for
60ft would be one hell of an expense.

about 4 buck a foot. *cheap for a permanent solution.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

$4 bucks a foot for 1"? More likely 3/4"
As opposed to poly which is approved and widely used
and just as permanent a solution for 40 cents a foot for 1"
or $24 instead of $240 for 3/4"
It's also a lot easier to work with than copper tubing.
If it's good enough for municipal water systems, it's good
enough for me.

On Wed, 8 Feb 2012 08:29:02 -0800 (PST), Bob123
wrote:


.... Oh, and if any other readers have some knowledge
of a better way, which is easier, and more reliable....
please reply to this thread with your information...


Instead of CPVC going into the ground, PEX would be a better, faster
and more reliable solution. 2 cents...

On Feb 8, 12:42 pm, "Home Guy" wrote:


Just sweat them together. Don't forget to use flux.

It's important to remember to drink the beer AFTER
you finish the connections.... :)))

On 2/8/2012 1:48 PM, wrote:
On Feb 8, 2:38 pm, Steve wrote:
On 2/8/2012 11:52 AM, wrote:





On Feb 8, 12:12 pm, bob wrote:
On Feb 8, 12:02 pm, Steve wrote:

On 2/8/2012 10:29 AM, Bob123 wrote:

On Feb 8, 6:28 am,
wrote:
On Feb 8, 6:08 am, wrote:

On Feb 7, 10:15 pm, wrote:

On Feb 7, 5:39 pm, wrote:

I have a buried water line with is 3/4 blue pipe, probably
polybutylene, that was put in 30 years ago that I need
to connect to 3/4 CPVC line.

I’ve heard that regular CPVC couplings and cement are
not a good way to do it.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make
the connection properly ?

Thanks

Sharkbite connectors work with poly and cpvc.
Jimmie

Yes. I looked up the website and saw the connector and it
looks like it will do the job.

Do you or trader4 have an opinion on whether the Sharkbite
works better than a crimped Poly/CPVC connection ??

I've seen a crimping tool for about 40 bucks and might come
in handy in the future, and the Sharkbite connectors are
around $9 each for 3/4, so a crimped joint would be about
a wash in cost for my present application....

Thanks. Bob123- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I don't have any experience as to which is better.
But my guess would be that since you have an
old plastic pipe that is known to fail because of
deterioration of the plastic, that the Sharkbite or
similar where you can better control the amount
of pressure the fitting is applying would be better.

If it were me, I'd consider replacing the poly out to
the curb. But that also depends on the consequences
if it fails, ie exactly where it's located and what would
happen if it suddenly bursts.

Thanks,
After reading lots of stuff, I've decided to find my
my mattock and spade and dig another trench for
CPVC to the meter head....
Sometimes, claptrapping stuff together, when there's a
lot of "disagreements" as to the quality, is best approached
by working one's ass off for a few hours....
Fortunately, I only have 50-60 feet to dig... and I don't
have a "frost line" in my location and no required inspections
so I only need 12 inches of depth ------

I can do that in 5-6 sixpacks......

Thanks to all for the opinions.

.... Oh, and if any other readers have some knowledge
of a better way, which is easier, and more reliable....
please reply to this thread with your information...

Bob123

i'm not sure cpvc is rated for burial. You'd be a lot better off with
3/4 soft copper. That's the standard at least where i live, it's required.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

or PEX. and go with one inch its so cheap it doesnt matter, and has no
joints to ever come apart, and no copper to be stolen- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Or 1" polyethylene, which would be even cheaper. I think
that's what they are using here in NJ in new construction
to go to the curb. Whatever it is, It's black, looks like
the poly pipe used for sprinklers, gets connected inside the
house with a barb fitting and double clamp. Copper for
60ft would be one hell of an expense.

about 4 buck a foot. cheap for a permanent solution.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

$4 bucks a foot for 1"? More likely 3/4"
As opposed to poly which is approved and widely used
and just as permanent a solution for 40 cents a foot for 1"
or $24 instead of $240 for 3/4"
It's also a lot easier to work with than copper tubing.
If it's good enough for municipal water systems, it's good
enough for me.

yes, it was 3/4 i priced.

like i said in the little town i live near (where my rentals all are)
copper is required if you replace the iron pipe that is there now.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

If it were ME I would run the actual waterline inside a 3 inch or so
PVC pipe so no matter what the entire line wouldnt need dug up again.
Plus the PVC or conduit will provide physical protection for the
shallow buried line

On Wed, 8 Feb 2012 17:09:21 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

Plus the PVC or conduit will provide physical protection for the
shallow buried line

shakes my head

Water and gas lines that cross streets in PEX have no "conduit".

On Feb 8, 8:30*pm, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 8 Feb 2012 17:09:21 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

Plus the PVC or conduit will provide physical protection for the
shallow buried line

shakes my head

Water and gas lines that cross streets in PEX have no "conduit".

more likely someone someday might install a post or try to plant a
bush PVC is cheap protection from future troubles.

On Feb 8, 8:00 pm, bob haller wrote:
On Feb 8, 8:30 pm, Oren wrote:

On Wed, 8 Feb 2012 17:09:21 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

Plus the PVC or conduit will provide physical protection for the
shallow buried line

shakes my head

Water and gas lines that cross streets in PEX have no "conduit".

more likely someone someday might install a post or try to plant a
bush PVC is cheap protection from future troubles.

I agree completely.... I had thought it a good idea to put the PEX
inside
of some cheap Sched 80 PVC for the same reason, but not make
the joint connections -- just slip the PVC over the PEX and walk
it through---- just to use it for the added protection when I stick a
shovel
in the ground to plant a bush in the wrong place....

I routinely use that technique when burying UF electric for the same
reason....-- it's a pain to have to do splicing to replace a nick in
an
underground electrical cable....

I don't know whether code allows it or not -- I think it does --- but
it's a great idea nevertheless and gives me great peace of mind...

Your 3 inch conduit could be that cheap drainpipe stuff, and you could
pull stuff thru it in the future. A very good idea in my opinion, but
maybe
a little costly......I guess it depends on the length...

On Feb 9, 9:01*am, Bob123 wrote:
On Feb 8, 8:00 pm, bob haller wrote:

On Feb 8, 8:30 pm, Oren wrote:

On Wed, 8 Feb 2012 17:09:21 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

Plus the PVC or conduit will provide physical protection for the
shallow buried line

shakes my head

Water and gas lines that cross streets in PEX have no "conduit".

more likely someone someday might install a post or try to plant a
bush PVC is cheap protection from future troubles.

I agree completely.... I had thought it a good idea to put the PEX
inside
of some cheap Sched 80 PVC for the same reason, but not make
the joint connections -- just slip the PVC over the PEX and walk
it through---- just to use it for the added protection when I stick a
shovel
in the ground to plant a bush in the wrong place....

I routinely use that technique when burying UF electric for the same
reason....-- it's a pain to have to do splicing to replace a nick in
an
underground electrical cable....

I don't know whether code allows it or not -- I think it does --- but
it's a great idea nevertheless and gives me great peace of mind...

Your 3 inch conduit could be that cheap drainpipe stuff, and you could
pull stuff thru it in the future. *A very good idea in my opinion, but
maybe
a little costly......I guess it depends on the length...

If you're only going about a foot deep, using PVC as a
conduit sounds like a good idea to me too.

On Feb 9, 8:22 am, "
wrote:

If you're only going about a foot deep, using PVC as a
conduit sounds like a good idea to me too.

I'm guessing that you're talking about the electrical.
BEWARE !! Putting UF at 1 foot is a BAD IDEA !!

Around here, if that were the barrier, we have two
options:

1) Go overhead..

2) Build a structure from A to B, typically a fence or
some sort ot hard barrier, and run the electrical
in conduit.

Waterlines are different. Both "1" and "2" are
impractical. Also buying enough dynamite to run
to code depth thru 60 feet of coral rock is also
impractical....

.... but putting it as deep as one can, so one can
run a lawn tractor over it without mishap is really a
good idea....

We tend to be anally retentive about doing the
electrical right, and fairly relaxed about a water
line with a shutoff on each end.......

But.... I guess where you live... you don't have
the practical problems we have in south Florida.....

However, I really appreciate the advice on using PEX.
It seems like a good idea, as I've been reading tutorials
and specs on it , and it looks like all I have to do for the
main line is to get a piece cut to length, and get a
plumbing house to crimp two PEX to female copper
on each end..... Very straightforward and I won't have
to buy a $150 crimper..... I've seen a "pocket criimper"
for about 40 bucks, but still, that 20 bucks per crimp........

Time spent reading posts on this newsgroup is
time well spent, in my opinion...

Bob

On Feb 9, 2:51*pm, Bob123 wrote:
On Feb 9, 8:22 am, "
wrote:

If you're only going about a foot deep, using PVC as a
conduit sounds like a good idea to me too.

I'm guessing that you're talking about the electrical.
BEWARE !! *Putting UF at 1 foot is a BAD IDEA !!

Around here, if that were the barrier, we have two
options:

* 1) Go overhead..

* 2) Build a structure from A to B, typically a fence or
* * * some sort ot hard barrier, and run the electrical
* * * in conduit.

Waterlines are different. Both "1" and "2" are
impractical. Also buying enough dynamite to run
to code depth thru 60 feet of coral rock is also
impractical....

... but putting it as deep as one can, * so one can
run a lawn tractor over it without mishap is really a
good idea....

We tend to be anally retentive about doing the
electrical right, and fairly relaxed about *a water
line with a shutoff on each end.......

But.... I guess where you *live... you don't have
the practical problems we have in south Florida.....

However, I really appreciate the advice on using PEX.
It seems like a good idea, as I've been reading tutorials
and specs on it , and it *looks like all I have to do for the
main line is to get a piece cut to length, and get a
plumbing house to crimp two PEX to female copper
on each end..... Very straightforward and I won't have
to buy a $150 crimper..... I've seen a "pocket criimper"
for about 40 bucks, but still, that 20 bucks per crimp........

Time spent reading posts on this newsgroup is
time well spent, in my opinion...

* * * * * * * * * * * * * Bob

actually conduit was my bad i was thinking of PVC sewer pipe

On 2/9/2012 1:51 PM, Bob123 wrote:
On Feb 9, 8:22 am,
wrote:

If you're only going about a foot deep, using PVC as a
conduit sounds like a good idea to me too.

I'm guessing that you're talking about the electrical.
BEWARE !! Putting UF at 1 foot is a BAD IDEA !!

Around here, if that were the barrier, we have two
options:

1) Go overhead..

2) Build a structure from A to B, typically a fence or
some sort ot hard barrier, and run the electrical
in conduit.

Waterlines are different. Both "1" and "2" are
impractical. Also buying enough dynamite to run
to code depth thru 60 feet of coral rock is also
impractical....

... but putting it as deep as one can, so one can
run a lawn tractor over it without mishap is really a
good idea....

We tend to be anally retentive about doing the
electrical right, and fairly relaxed about a water
line with a shutoff on each end.......

But.... I guess where you live... you don't have
the practical problems we have in south Florida.....

However, I really appreciate the advice on using PEX.
It seems like a good idea, as I've been reading tutorials
and specs on it , and it looks like all I have to do for the
main line is to get a piece cut to length, and get a
plumbing house to crimp two PEX to female copper
on each end..... Very straightforward and I won't have
to buy a $150 crimper..... I've seen a "pocket criimper"
for about 40 bucks, but still, that 20 bucks per crimp........

Time spent reading posts on this newsgroup is
time well spent, in my opinion...

Bob

you can rent that crimper at most rental joints.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Feb 9, 2:51*pm, Bob123 wrote:
On Feb 9, 8:22 am, "
wrote:

If you're only going about a foot deep, using PVC as a
conduit sounds like a good idea to me too.

I'm guessing that you're talking about the electrical.
BEWARE !! *Putting UF at 1 foot is a BAD IDEA !!

I wasn't talking about electrical. I was talking about
using PVC pipe as a conduit to put poly or PEX water
pipe through so that it's protected when you only
can bury it a foot deep.







Around here, if that were the barrier, we have two
options:

* 1) Go overhead..

* 2) Build a structure from A to B, typically a fence or
* * * some sort ot hard barrier, and run the electrical
* * * in conduit.

Waterlines are different. Both "1" and "2" are
impractical.


1" and 2" what are impractical? What's impractical
about a 1" pipe?




Also buying enough dynamite to run
to code depth thru 60 feet of coral rock is also
impractical....

... but putting it as deep as one can, * so one can
run a lawn tractor over it without mishap is really a
good idea....

We tend to be anally retentive about doing the
electrical right, and fairly relaxed about *a water
line with a shutoff on each end.......

But.... I guess where you *live... you don't have
the practical problems we have in south Florida.....

However, I really appreciate the advice on using PEX.
It seems like a good idea, as I've been reading tutorials
and specs on it , and it *looks like all I have to do for the
main line is to get a piece cut to length, and get a
plumbing house to crimp two PEX to female copper
on each end..... Very straightforward and I won't have
to buy a $150 crimper..... I've seen a "pocket criimper"
for about 40 bucks, but still, that 20 bucks per crimp........

Time spent reading posts on this newsgroup is
time well spent, in my opinion...

* * * * * * * * * * * * * Bob

On Feb 9, 4:47 pm, "
wrote:


1) Go overhead..

2) Build a structure from A to B, typically a fence or
some sort ot hard barrier, and run the electrical
in conduit.

Waterlines are different. Both "1" and "2" are
impractical.


Trader asks:
1" and 2" what are impractical? What's impractical
about a 1" pipe?


I don't understand your question.. I presented two alternatives,
"1" and '2" and somehow you converted that to
1 inch pipe...... I don't think that "1", a waterpipe strung
overhead is practical, or "2" ,a waterpipe above ground on a
fence rail either, because of freezing in winter.....

I am using 3/4 inch pipe for my buried run.....probably
PEX, now that you and others have pointed out the
ease of installation...

I'll probably just get a piece, cut it to length, and go
to a local plumber to crimp a PEX to female copper on
each end, and lay it in the hole....

It ain't rocket surgery.......

On Feb 9, 3:16 pm, bob haller wrote:


actually conduit was my bad i was thinking of PVC sewer pipe

One caveat...
If it isn't sealed somehow on the ends, burrowing animals like
rats and field mice might set up house in it,and eventually decide
to sample the taste of the silly thing running thru the middle....
Perhaps you don't have critters in your area, but around here, we
have to worry about that stuff.... :)))

On Feb 9, 4:42 pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 2/9/2012 1:51 PM, Bob123 wrote:



On Feb 9, 8:22 am,
wrote:

If you're only going about a foot deep, using PVC as a
conduit sounds like a good idea to me too.

I'm guessing that you're talking about the electrical.
BEWARE !! Putting UF at 1 foot is a BAD IDEA !!

Around here, if that were the barrier, we have two
options:

1) Go overhead..

2) Build a structure from A to B, typically a fence or
some sort ot hard barrier, and run the electrical
in conduit.

Waterlines are different. Both "1" and "2" are
impractical. Also buying enough dynamite to run
to code depth thru 60 feet of coral rock is also
impractical....

... but putting it as deep as one can, so one can
run a lawn tractor over it without mishap is really a
good idea....

We tend to be anally retentive about doing the
electrical right, and fairly relaxed about a water
line with a shutoff on each end.......

But.... I guess where you live... you don't have
the practical problems we have in south Florida.....

However, I really appreciate the advice on using PEX.
It seems like a good idea, as I've been reading tutorials
and specs on it , and it looks like all I have to do for the
main line is to get a piece cut to length, and get a
plumbing house to crimp two PEX to female copper
on each end..... Very straightforward and I won't have
to buy a $150 crimper..... I've seen a "pocket criimper"
for about 40 bucks, but still, that 20 bucks per crimp........

Time spent reading posts on this newsgroup is
time well spent, in my opinion...

Bob

you can rent that crimper at most rental joints.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Thanks, I had considered that, but I'm pretty sure that
I'll only need two crimps and it probly would be easier
to go to a plumber and give him a few bucks to crimp'
two copper rings on a 70 foot PEX with female copper fittings
and then I'll carry it back to the truck.....

On the other hand, having a $40 pocket crimper might
come in handy ---- I am such a sucker for tools....
It would be fun to practice with... Maybe I could
use it for pecans........ :)))

On Feb 9, 7:34*pm, Bob123 wrote:
On Feb 9, 4:47 pm, "
wrote:



* 1) Go overhead..

* 2) Build a structure from A to B, typically a fence or
* * * some sort ot hard barrier, and run the electrical
* * * in conduit.

Waterlines are different. Both "1" and "2" are
impractical.

Trader asks:

1" and 2" what are impractical? *What's impractical
about a 1" pipe?

I don't understand your question.. I presented two alternatives,
"1" and '2" and somehow you converted that to
1 inch pipe...... I don't think *that "1", a waterpipe strung
overhead is practical, or "2" ,a waterpipe above ground on a
fence rail either, because of freezing in winter.....



I didn't associate the 1" or 2" pipe to the part
about possibly stringing it overhead. I thought you
meant 1" or 2" was impractical for the actual job.

The place where all this went astray was when
I agreed with Bob's suggestion of putting PEX
in a PVC conduit because you're only burying
it a foot deep. Somehow that got turned into putting
electrical in conduit, which I never said.




I am using 3/4 inch pipe for my buried run.....probably
PEX, now that you and others have pointed out the
ease of installation...

I'll probably just get a piece, cut it to length, and go
to a local plumber to crimp a PEX to female copper on
each end, and lay it in the hole....

It ain't rocket surgery.......

No, but you'd be surprised at the number of discussions
here that come close to that before it's over....

Hi Bob,

I am using 3/4 inch pipe for my buried run.....probably
PEX, now that you and others have pointed out the
ease of installation...

I always use regular PVC for buried water lines. You only need CPVC for
hot water lines.

I like PVC because it is inexpensive, doesn't require any special tools to
install, and is available just about everywhere. PVC is used underground
for sprinkler systems all the time, so it works well when buried.

Around here I would avoid putting copper (or any metal for that matter)
underground. Our soil is rather acidic and could potentially cause
corrosion or pitting in metal pipe.

I use 1" pipe for buried lines, 3/4" for main runs inside buildings, and
1/2" for individual fixture lines.

One foot deep should be fine for a water line if you don't have frost lines
to worry about. That's deeper than most tillers dig, and a single shovel
scoop won't usually go that deep either. If possible, I would try to route
it where you are unlikely to want to plant something in the future.

As for electrical, I think code depth is 24" unless you put it in conduit.
I think you're still supposed to go 18" with conduit, but you can run
conduit above ground according to code, so shallower depth's should be
fine. I would still aim for 24" unless you have rock or something you can't
get below. If the conduit is open on each end, make sure to install
bushings on each end to prevent the conduit from nicking the cable as it
expands and contracts, or shifts with earth movement. Lay the cable a
little loose too for the same reasons.

Good luck,

Anthony

On Feb 8, 8:30*pm, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 8 Feb 2012 17:09:21 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

Plus the PVC or conduit will provide physical protection for the
shallow buried line

shakes my head

Water and gas lines that cross streets in PEX have no "conduit".

Yeah, and if he lays the PEX and then puts down a street on top of it,
it will be just as well protected... Or did you have3 another point?