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#1
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
I own a townhouse in a complex where we recently changed the outdoor
lighting on the grounds to simple two socket outdoor fixtures http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/410uvXmvWVL._SL500_AA300_.jpg with 26W PAR38 fluorescent lamps. These replaced problematic 150W halogen fixtures with the straight bulbs held in a spring loaded socket. These lamps are on photocells but not motion sensors. There's a woman in an adjoining apartment complex complaining that the lamps are too bright (even though they are dimmer than the old ones, the old ones were often non-functional). She complained to the city which said that the lamps are out of compliance with the city code because they shine onto adjoining property. I'm looking for either a way to shield the PAR38 lamps so they don't bother the neighbor, or to find a fixture that directs all the light down. The fixtures are affixed to the wall of the building about 10' up. We liked the bare bulbs because they are easy to replace without a ladder, but even if we had shields over the sides that would not help. The city mentioned a "shoebox" design but I don't know what means. http://www.ci.campbell.ca.us/Planning/ZoneCodeExcerpts/Ligting%20Design%20Standard.pdf. Anyway, I'd like ideas about ways to shield these lights so they don't spill light, or for fixtures that solve the problem. It's just two fixtures to replace if we have to change fixtures. |
#2
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
On 1/6/2012 12:01 PM, SMS wrote:
I own a townhouse in a complex where we recently changed the outdoor lighting on the grounds to simple two socket outdoor fixtures http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/410uvXmvWVL._SL500_AA300_.jpg with 26W PAR38 fluorescent lamps. These replaced problematic 150W halogen fixtures with the straight bulbs held in a spring loaded socket. These lamps are on photocells but not motion sensors. There's a woman in an adjoining apartment complex complaining that the lamps are too bright (even though they are dimmer than the old ones, the old ones were often non-functional). She complained to the city which said that the lamps are out of compliance with the city code because they shine onto adjoining property. I'm looking for either a way to shield the PAR38 lamps so they don't bother the neighbor, or to find a fixture that directs all the light down. The fixtures are affixed to the wall of the building about 10' up. We liked the bare bulbs because they are easy to replace without a ladder, but even if we had shields over the sides that would not help. The city mentioned a "shoebox" design but I don't know what means. http://www.ci.campbell.ca.us/Planning/ZoneCodeExcerpts/Ligting%20Design%20Standard.pdf. Anyway, I'd like ideas about ways to shield these lights so they don't spill light, or for fixtures that solve the problem. It's just two fixtures to replace if we have to change fixtures. if my neighbor aimed those at my house, i'd be annoyed too. actually, when they leave their floods on all night for their dogs in their backyard, i do get annoyed since they shine directly into my bedroom window. turtle fixtures http://www.ledtronics.com/Products/P...ls.aspx?WP=877 you want them aimed downwards with no light spilling to the sides or out past 45 degrees from vertical. |
#3
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
I own a townhouse in a complex where we recently changed the outdoor
lighting on the grounds to simple two socket outdoor fixtures http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/410uvXmvWVL._SL500_AA300_.jpg with 26W PAR38 fluorescent lamps. These replaced problematic 150W halogen fixtures with the straight bulbs held in a spring loaded socket. These lamps are on photocells but not motion sensors. There's a woman in an adjoining apartment complex complaining that the lamps are too bright (even though they are dimmer than the old ones, the old ones were often non-functional). She complained to the city which said that the lamps are out of compliance with the city code because they shine onto adjoining property. I'm looking for either a way to shield the PAR38 lamps so they don't bother the neighbor, or to find a fixture that directs all the light down. The fixtures are affixed to the wall of the building about 10' up. We liked the bare bulbs because they are easy to replace without a ladder, but even if we had shields over the sides that would not help. The city mentioned a "shoebox" design but I don't know what means. http://www.ci.campbell.ca.us/Planning/ZoneCodeExcerpts/Ligting%20Design%20Standard.pdf. Anyway, I'd like ideas about ways to shield these lights so they don't spill light, or for fixtures that solve the problem. It's just two fixtures to replace if we have to change fixtures. *Something like this might work: http://www.rabweb.com/common/catalog/pages/HB101.pdf Install a visor or hood and adjust the aim of the sockets to reduce light spillage. Here's something in an LED: http://www.rabweb.com/product_detail...oduct=WPLED52N I suggest going to a lighting store or to an electrical supply company to see what else might be available. Ask them about light fixtures that have "Dark Sky" approval. |
#4
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
On Jan 6, 2:01*pm, SMS wrote:
I own a townhouse in a complex where we recently changed the outdoor lighting on the grounds to simple two socket outdoor fixtures http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/410uvXmvWVL._SL500_AA300_.jpg with 26W PAR38 fluorescent lamps. These replaced problematic 150W halogen fixtures with the straight bulbs held in a spring loaded socket. These lamps are on photocells but not motion sensors. There's a woman in an adjoining apartment complex complaining that the lamps are too bright (even though they are dimmer than the old ones, the old ones were often non-functional). She complained to the city which said that the lamps are out of compliance with the city code because they shine onto adjoining property. I'm looking for either a way to shield the PAR38 lamps so they don't bother the neighbor, or to find a fixture that directs all the light down. The fixtures are affixed to the wall of the building about 10' up. We liked the bare bulbs because they are easy to replace without a ladder, but even if we had shields over the sides that would not help. The city mentioned a "shoebox" design but I don't know what means. http://www.ci.campbell.ca.us/Planning/ZoneCodeExcerpts/Ligting%20Desi.... Anyway, I'd like ideas about ways to shield these lights so they don't spill light, or for fixtures that solve the problem. It's just two fixtures to replace if we have to change fixtures. Before you go any further you should read your townhouse rules. They usually specify everything on the outside including what color your door can be and how many/type of potted plants. |
#5
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
SMS wrote:
I own a townhouse in a complex where we recently changed the outdoor lighting on the grounds to simple two socket outdoor fixtures http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/410uvXmvWVL._SL500_AA300_.jpg with 26W PAR38 fluorescent lamps. These replaced problematic 150W halogen fixtures with the straight bulbs held in a spring loaded socket. These lamps are on photocells but not motion sensors. There's a woman in an adjoining apartment complex complaining that the lamps are too bright (even though they are dimmer than the old ones, the old ones were often non-functional). She complained to the city which said that the lamps are out of compliance with the city code because they shine onto adjoining property. I'm looking for either a way to shield the PAR38 lamps so they don't bother the neighbor, or to find a fixture that directs all the light down. The fixtures are affixed to the wall of the building about 10' up. We liked the bare bulbs because they are easy to replace without a ladder, but even if we had shields over the sides that would not help. The city mentioned a "shoebox" design but I don't know what means. http://www.ci.campbell.ca.us/Planning/ZoneCodeExcerpts/Ligting%20Design%20Standard.pdf. Anyway, I'd like ideas about ways to shield these lights so they don't spill light, or for fixtures that solve the problem. It's just two fixtures to replace if we have to change fixtures. What does your busy-body city say about the moon? |
#6
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
"HeyBub" wrote in message m... SMS wrote: I own a townhouse in a complex where we recently changed the outdoor lighting on the grounds to simple two socket outdoor fixtures http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/410uvXmvWVL._SL500_AA300_.jpg with 26W PAR38 fluorescent lamps. These replaced problematic 150W halogen fixtures with the straight bulbs held in a spring loaded socket. These lamps are on photocells but not motion sensors. There's a woman in an adjoining apartment complex complaining that the lamps are too bright (even though they are dimmer than the old ones, the old ones were often non-functional). She complained to the city which said that the lamps are out of compliance with the city code because they shine onto adjoining property. I'm looking for either a way to shield the PAR38 lamps so they don't bother the neighbor, or to find a fixture that directs all the light down. The fixtures are affixed to the wall of the building about 10' up. We liked the bare bulbs because they are easy to replace without a ladder, but even if we had shields over the sides that would not help. The city mentioned a "shoebox" design but I don't know what means. http://www.ci.campbell.ca.us/Planning/ZoneCodeExcerpts/Ligting%20Design%20Standard.pdf. Anyway, I'd like ideas about ways to shield these lights so they don't spill light, or for fixtures that solve the problem. It's just two fixtures to replace if we have to change fixtures. What does your busy-body city say about the moon? Probably they would say that the moon is not as glaring as those bright lights. Cities don't initiate laws against bright lights; fed up citizens who prefer the moon and stars to someone's idea of glaring security lighting have to fight for such laws. Democracy in action one might say. John's idea of a dark-sky friendly fixture is fine -- lots of those around including "shoe box" types. I've used the "Glare Buster" quite a bit. It's simple, rugged, inexpensive and comes with a photocell. See: http://www.darksky.org/index.php?opt...article&id=610 Tomsic |
#7
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
On 1/6/2012 4:47 PM, HeyBub wrote:
SMS wrote: I own a townhouse in a complex where we recently changed the outdoor lighting on the grounds to simple two socket outdoor fixtures http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/410uvXmvWVL._SL500_AA300_.jpg with 26W PAR38 fluorescent lamps. These replaced problematic 150W halogen fixtures with the straight bulbs held in a spring loaded socket. These lamps are on photocells but not motion sensors. There's a woman in an adjoining apartment complex complaining that the lamps are too bright (even though they are dimmer than the old ones, the old ones were often non-functional). She complained to the city which said that the lamps are out of compliance with the city code because they shine onto adjoining property. I'm looking for either a way to shield the PAR38 lamps so they don't bother the neighbor, or to find a fixture that directs all the light down. The fixtures are affixed to the wall of the building about 10' up. We liked the bare bulbs because they are easy to replace without a ladder, but even if we had shields over the sides that would not help. The city mentioned a "shoebox" design but I don't know what means. http://www.ci.campbell.ca.us/Planning/ZoneCodeExcerpts/Ligting%20Design%20Standard.pdf. Anyway, I'd like ideas about ways to shield these lights so they don't spill light, or for fixtures that solve the problem. It's just two fixtures to replace if we have to change fixtures. What does your busy-body city say about the moon? We need more "busy-body" cities like that. I hate light pollution. |
#8
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
SMS wrote:
I own a townhouse in a complex where we recently changed the outdoor lighting on the grounds to simple two socket outdoor fixtures http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/410uvXmvWVL._SL500_AA300_.jpg with 26W PAR38 fluorescent lamps. These replaced problematic 150W halogen fixtures with the straight bulbs held in a spring loaded socket. These lamps are on photocells but not motion sensors. . . . . , I'm looking for either a way to shield the PAR38 lamps so they don't bother the neighbor, or to find a fixture that directs all the light down. The fixtures are affixed to the wall of the building about 10' up. If you do Google search for "dark sky compliant", you'll probably get some good ideas. Also, here is one website with a lot of examples and an individual Home Depot light that you may want to check out: http://www.skykeepers.org/good_fixtures/ca-res.html http://www.homedepot.com/Lighting-Fa...atalogId=10053 |
#9
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
On 1/6/2012 2:40 PM, Tomsic wrote:
John's idea of a dark-sky friendly fixture is fine -- lots of those around including "shoe box" types. I've used the "Glare Buster" quite a bit. It's simple, rugged, inexpensive and comes with a photocell. See: http://www.darksky.org/index.php?opt...article&id=610 Thanks, that's just what we want. We are not opposed to changing the fixture, we just didn't think it was going to be a problem since the lamps used now are very low wattage and they are aimed down as far as possible, and there is heavy tree cover. It's a narrow walkway between the side of the building and a fence separating the townhouse complex from an apartment complex. This is a picture of the area: http://i41.tinypic.com/219dq47.jpg. I need to go over there and look at it, I don't live there but I'm on the board. |
#10
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
On 1/6/2012 6:09 PM, Ron wrote:
SMS wrote: I own a townhouse in a complex where we recently changed the outdoor lighting on the grounds to simple two socket outdoor fixtures http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/410uvXmvWVL._SL500_AA300_.jpg with 26W PAR38 fluorescent lamps. These replaced problematic 150W halogen fixtures with the straight bulbs held in a spring loaded socket. These lamps are on photocells but not motion sensors. . . . . , I'm looking for either a way to shield the PAR38 lamps so they don't bother the neighbor, or to find a fixture that directs all the light down. The fixtures are affixed to the wall of the building about 10' up. If you do Google search for "dark sky compliant", you'll probably get some good ideas. Also, here is one website with a lot of examples and an individual Home Depot light that you may want to check out: http://www.skykeepers.org/good_fixtures/ca-res.html http://www.homedepot.com/Lighting-Fa...atalogId=10053 I put up 3 of those exact same Home Depot lights, they look good during the day and at night. |
#11
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
Tony Miklos wrote:
What does your busy-body city say about the moon? We need more "busy-body" cities like that. I hate light pollution. Then live in the freakin' desert. Why should other change their life to accommodate you? |
#12
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
"HeyBub" wrote in message ... Tony Miklos wrote: What does your busy-body city say about the moon? We need more "busy-body" cities like that. I hate light pollution. Then live in the freakin' desert. Why should other change their life to accommodate you? What right does one person have to squirt light on another person's property. It's no different than a barking dog or throwing trash over the fence. Light pollution is a nuisance and those who are concerned about it have a right to work to regulate it. Unfortunately, there are now few places -- even deserts -- where there's no light pollution. Death Valley National Monument has a fairly dark sky, but you can see the lights of Las Vegas on the horizon. Lots of energy going to waste in the sky. Tomsic |
#13
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
Tony Miklos wrote:
On 1/6/2012 6:09 PM, Ron wrote: SMS wrote: I own a townhouse in a complex where we recently changed the outdoor lighting on the grounds to simple two socket outdoor fixtures http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/410uvXmvWVL._SL500_AA300_.jpg with 26W PAR38 fluorescent lamps. These replaced problematic 150W halogen fixtures with the straight bulbs held in a spring loaded socket. These lamps are on photocells but not motion sensors. . . . . , I'm looking for either a way to shield the PAR38 lamps so they don't bother the neighbor, or to find a fixture that directs all the light down. The fixtures are affixed to the wall of the building about 10' up. If you do Google search for "dark sky compliant", you'll probably get some good ideas. Also, here is one website with a lot of examples and an individual Home Depot light that you may want to check out: http://www.skykeepers.org/good_fixtures/ca-res.html http://www.homedepot.com/Lighting-Fa...atalogId=10053 I put up 3 of those exact same Home Depot lights, they look good during the day and at night. I have two of them and I agree. I like them, but when I looked up the link I did notice that a lot of people wrote bad reviews about them. Also, for a more commercial location, the OP may be better off with some of the models shown in the other link I provided or the ones that others here mentioned. I think the more commercial ones will probably be brighter and provide better security. |
#14
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
On 1/6/2012 4:00 PM, SMS wrote:
On 1/6/2012 2:40 PM, Tomsic wrote: John's idea of a dark-sky friendly fixture is fine -- lots of those around including "shoe box" types. I've used the "Glare Buster" quite a bit. It's simple, rugged, inexpensive and comes with a photocell. See: http://www.darksky.org/index.php?opt...article&id=610 Thanks, that's just what we want. We are not opposed to changing the fixture, we just didn't think it was going to be a problem since the lamps used now are very low wattage and they are aimed down as far as possible, and there is heavy tree cover. It's a narrow walkway between the side of the building and a fence separating the townhouse complex from an apartment complex. This is a picture of the area: http://i41.tinypic.com/219dq47.jpg. I need to go over there and look at it, I don't live there but I'm on the board. I went there early this morning to look at things in the dark. I found out that the person with the problem is actually in a different location. http://i43.tinypic.com/w63yb.jpg I have concluded that the complaint is ridiculous. Of all the always-on lights in the area, ours were the least obtrusive. They are very low intensity (two 26W PAR 38 lamps) and shine almost straight down onto the driveway with very little spill. Other lights in the area, including the ones on the building where the woman lives, shine outward from the side of the building, not down, and are much more annoying. I think that it's the fact that they are bare bulbs with no reflector that is giving her the idea that they are a problem. I saw these http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/14/14f4790b-b7e7-4c1d-98a0-ef541dd4b386_300.jpg at Home Depot last night and I can retrofit the shield and socket part of these onto the existing plate. This will satisfy the city that the lamps are shielded. |
#15
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
"HeyBub" wrote:
SMS wrote: I own a townhouse in a complex where we recently changed the outdoor lighting on the grounds to simple two socket outdoor fixtures http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/410uvXmvWVL._SL500_AA300_.jpg with 26W PAR38 fluorescent lamps. These replaced problematic 150W halogen fixtures with the straight bulbs held in a spring loaded socket. These lamps are on photocells but not motion sensors. There's a woman in an adjoining apartment complex complaining that the lamps are too bright (even though they are dimmer than the old ones, the old ones were often non-functional). She complained to the city which said that the lamps are out of compliance with the city code because they shine onto adjoining property. I'm looking for either a way to shield the PAR38 lamps so they don't bother the neighbor, or to find a fixture that directs all the light down. The fixtures are affixed to the wall of the building about 10' up. We liked the bare bulbs because they are easy to replace without a ladder, but even if we had shields over the sides that would not help. The city mentioned a "shoebox" design but I don't know what means. http://www.ci.campbell.ca.us/Planning/ZoneCodeExcerpts/Ligting%20Design%20Standard.pdf. Anyway, I'd like ideas about ways to shield these lights so they don't spill light, or for fixtures that solve the problem. It's just two fixtures to replace if we have to change fixtures. What does your busy-body city say about the moon? I see these intensely bright street lamps a half mile away. Why waste all that light?? Greg |
#16
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
"Ron" wrote:
SMS wrote: I own a townhouse in a complex where we recently changed the outdoor lighting on the grounds to simple two socket outdoor fixtures http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/410uvXmvWVL._SL500_AA300_.jpg with 26W PAR38 fluorescent lamps. These replaced problematic 150W halogen fixtures with the straight bulbs held in a spring loaded socket. These lamps are on photocells but not motion sensors. . . . . , I'm looking for either a way to shield the PAR38 lamps so they don't bother the neighbor, or to find a fixture that directs all the light down. The fixtures are affixed to the wall of the building about 10' up. If you do Google search for "dark sky compliant", you'll probably get some good ideas. Also, here is one website with a lot of examples and an individual Home Depot light that you may want to check out: http://www.skykeepers.org/good_fixtures/ca-res.html http://www.homedepot.com/Lighting-Fa...atalogId=10053 My brother has those hangy things. I loved them and plan on getting some. Greg |
#17
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
On 1/7/2012 11:43 AM, Ron wrote:
Tony Miklos wrote: On 1/6/2012 6:09 PM, Ron wrote: SMS wrote: I own a townhouse in a complex where we recently changed the outdoor lighting on the grounds to simple two socket outdoor fixtures http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/410uvXmvWVL._SL500_AA300_.jpg with 26W PAR38 fluorescent lamps. These replaced problematic 150W halogen fixtures with the straight bulbs held in a spring loaded socket. These lamps are on photocells but not motion sensors. . . . . , I'm looking for either a way to shield the PAR38 lamps so they don't bother the neighbor, or to find a fixture that directs all the light down. The fixtures are affixed to the wall of the building about 10' up. If you do Google search for "dark sky compliant", you'll probably get some good ideas. Also, here is one website with a lot of examples and an individual Home Depot light that you may want to check out: http://www.skykeepers.org/good_fixtures/ca-res.html http://www.homedepot.com/Lighting-Fa...atalogId=10053 I put up 3 of those exact same Home Depot lights, they look good during the day and at night. I have two of them and I agree. I like them, but when I looked up the link I did notice that a lot of people wrote bad reviews about them. Looks like a lot of problems with the motion sensors, I don't use that feature, in fact I didn't even know it had that feature until I installed them. I have them set to stay on dusk to dawn and at the time I figured if the photo cells go bad I'll add a "real" photo cell inline with all of them. |
#18
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
On 1/6/2012 8:43 PM, HeyBub wrote:
Tony Miklos wrote: What does your busy-body city say about the moon? We need more "busy-body" cities like that. I hate light pollution. Then live in the freakin' desert. I live in the middle of 5 wooded acres. I can only see a couple faint lights in the winter, they don't bother me. People come here at night and are amazed by all the stars they see. Some people don't give a rats ass about the beauty of nature, many do. Why should other change their life to accommodate you? Uh didn't you know that the night was dark until people put up lights? They are changing nature, I'm working with it. You probably have a friggen street light at your house don't you? LOL |
#19
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
On 1/6/2012 9:36 PM, Tomsic wrote:
wrote in message ... Tony Miklos wrote: What does your busy-body city say about the moon? We need more "busy-body" cities like that. I hate light pollution. Then live in the freakin' desert. Why should other change their life to accommodate you? What right does one person have to squirt light on another person's property. It's no different than a barking dog or throwing trash over the fence. Light pollution is a nuisance and those who are concerned about it have a right to work to regulate it. Unfortunately, there are now few places -- even deserts -- where there's no light pollution. Death Valley National Monument has a fairly dark sky, but you can see the lights of Las Vegas on the horizon. Lots of energy going to waste in the sky. Tomsic I completely agree, but unfortunately there will always be the ignorant people who don't care about anyone but themselves. |
#20
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
On Sat, 07 Jan 2012 15:21:40 -0500, Tony Miklos
wrote: Uh didn't you know that the night was dark until people put up lights? They are changing nature, I'm working with it. You probably have a friggen street light at your house don't you? LOL Our street light went out and a truck came to repair it. The guy asked me how long it was out. I told him about six months. He was astonished and asked when I reported it. Told him never, wished it was out forever. It was the best six months since we moved here. |
#21
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
On 1/7/2012 12:53 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jan 2012 15:21:40 -0500, Tony Miklos wrote: Uh didn't you know that the night was dark until people put up lights? They are changing nature, I'm working with it. You probably have a friggen street light at your house don't you? LOL Our street light went out and a truck came to repair it. The guy asked me how long it was out. I told him about six months. He was astonished and asked when I reported it. Told him never, wished it was out forever. It was the best six months since we moved here. We had one that was out for two years. I asked my neighbor not to report it because it shined in our window. The replacement is actually much better, they put up an LED light that we don't even notice. We want to do what is right for this neighbor. We changed our lighting a few months ago to get away from high-intensity quartz-halogen bulbs that used a lot of electricity, burned out often, wasted a lot of light. We need always-on lighting because of the riff-raff in that neighborhood. The low-intensity fluorescent PAR38s seemed ideal. |
#22
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
"SMS" wrote in message ... On 1/7/2012 12:53 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: On Sat, 07 Jan 2012 15:21:40 -0500, Tony Miklos wrote: Uh didn't you know that the night was dark until people put up lights? They are changing nature, I'm working with it. You probably have a friggen street light at your house don't you? LOL Our street light went out and a truck came to repair it. The guy asked me how long it was out. I told him about six months. He was astonished and asked when I reported it. Told him never, wished it was out forever. It was the best six months since we moved here. We had one that was out for two years. I asked my neighbor not to report it because it shined in our window. The replacement is actually much better, they put up an LED light that we don't even notice. We want to do what is right for this neighbor. We changed our lighting a few months ago to get away from high-intensity quartz-halogen bulbs that used a lot of electricity, burned out often, wasted a lot of light. We need always-on lighting because of the riff-raff in that neighborhood. The low-intensity fluorescent PAR38s seemed ideal. A well thought-out solution. Thank you from a dark-sky advocate. Tomsic |
#23
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
On 1/7/2012 2:53 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jan 2012 15:21:40 -0500, Tony Miklos wrote: Uh didn't you know that the night was dark until people put up lights? They are changing nature, I'm working with it. You probably have a friggen street light at your house don't you? LOL Our street light went out and a truck came to repair it. The guy asked me how long it was out. I told him about six months. He was astonished and asked when I reported it. Told him never, wished it was out forever. It was the best six months since we moved here. I'm glad of the street light in front of where I live. I can walk up the steep steps from the street at night without tripping on something lurking in the dark. It also lights up the front yard so I can catch any crack/meth heads trying to break into one of our vehicles. ^_^ TDD |
#24
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
On 1/7/2012 11:23 AM, gregz wrote:
wrote: SMS wrote: I own a townhouse in a complex where we recently changed the outdoor lighting on the grounds to simple two socket outdoor fixtures http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/410uvXmvWVL._SL500_AA300_.jpg with 26W PAR38 fluorescent lamps. These replaced problematic 150W halogen fixtures with the straight bulbs held in a spring loaded socket. These lamps are on photocells but not motion sensors. There's a woman in an adjoining apartment complex complaining that the lamps are too bright (even though they are dimmer than the old ones, the old ones were often non-functional). She complained to the city which said that the lamps are out of compliance with the city code because they shine onto adjoining property. I'm looking for either a way to shield the PAR38 lamps so they don't bother the neighbor, or to find a fixture that directs all the light down. The fixtures are affixed to the wall of the building about 10' up. We liked the bare bulbs because they are easy to replace without a ladder, but even if we had shields over the sides that would not help. The city mentioned a "shoebox" design but I don't know what means. http://www.ci.campbell.ca.us/Planning/ZoneCodeExcerpts/Ligting%20Design%20Standard.pdf. Anyway, I'd like ideas about ways to shield these lights so they don't spill light, or for fixtures that solve the problem. It's just two fixtures to replace if we have to change fixtures. What does your busy-body city say about the moon? I see these intensely bright street lamps a half mile away. Why waste all that light?? Greg You can always put the leftover light in a storage container for later use. Refrigeration makes it last longer. ^_^ TDD |
#25
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
On 1/7/2012 3:53 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jan 2012 15:21:40 -0500, Tony Miklos wrote: Uh didn't you know that the night was dark until people put up lights? They are changing nature, I'm working with it. You probably have a friggen street light at your house don't you? LOL Our street light went out and a truck came to repair it. The guy asked me how long it was out. I told him about six months. He was astonished and asked when I reported it. Told him never, wished it was out forever. It was the best six months since we moved here. Get your BB gun out. |
#26
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
SMS wrote:
I went there early this morning to look at things in the dark. I found out that the person with the problem is actually in a different location. http://i43.tinypic.com/w63yb.jpg Thanks for posting the new picture which gives a better view of the setup, where your building is located, and where the complainant is located. I have concluded that the complaint is ridiculous. I disagree. From what you posted, I think the complainant has a valid argument. There really are no trees with leaves etc. blocking the light into her place -- only some bare tree trunks. She probably has sliding glass doors where the balcony is located, and I assume that she does not want the light from your fixtures shining into her place through the sliding glass doors. Makes sense to me. Of all the always-on lights in the area, ours were the least obtrusive. They are very low intensity (two 26W PAR 38 lamps) and shine almost straight down onto the driveway with very little spill. Other lights in the area, including the ones on the building where the woman lives, shine outward from the side of the building, not down, and are much more annoying. I think that it's the fact that they are bare bulbs with no reflector that is giving her the idea that they are a problem. Even though the replacement lights that you put up are less intensity than the ones you replaced, she may have not liked the ones that were there before and maybe didn't say anything about them because they were already there. But when she saw that you changed the lights, that may have prompted her to think that if you are changing them anyway maybe you could change them into something that doesn't emanate light into her place. As far as the other lights in the area, she may not like them either. But, yours are almost directly across from her place and balcony, so yours may create the most issues for her. And it is possible that she also complained about the other lights in the area, depending on where they are located. If the other lights are up higher, it may be that not much can be done to keep some of them from emanating down onto and into her place. But, since yours are down lower, she may just not want to have yours emanate light up into her place. Plus, the lights that are on her building, which may create a problem for others (including people in your buildings), probably do not create a problem for her because they do not shine into her place. I saw these http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...d4b386_300.jpg at Home Depot last night and I can retrofit the shield and socket part of these onto the existing plate. This will satisfy the city that the lamps are shielded. It looks like what you have in mind will satisfy the city and probably will solve the problem for the complainant. A nice thing to do may be to ask her. |
#27
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Shielding Outdoor Lighting (PAR38)
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message ... On Sat, 07 Jan 2012 15:21:40 -0500, Tony Miklos wrote: Uh didn't you know that the night was dark until people put up lights? They are changing nature, I'm working with it. You probably have a friggen street light at your house don't you? LOL Our street light went out and a truck came to repair it. The guy asked me how long it was out. I told him about six months. He was astonished and asked when I reported it. Told him never, wished it was out forever. It was the best six months since we moved here. Mmmm Consider a slingshot You should be good for another 6 months. |
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