My washer has a pump that is too strong for the drains in this old house. From what I have heard, some kind of tight connection is OK as long as the washer has a pumped drain and not a gravity type.

Being an expert seat of the pants, shade tree type feller, I thought I better pass this by the pros here before I throw the switch.

I already rooted out the drain all the way to the sewer, and the roof vent is clear. Still not quite big enough for the newer washer.

Sketch of what I'm think about doing:

http://imageshack.us/f/856/washerd.gif/

Many thanks,

Bob

On 1/5/2012 1:50 AM, Guv Bob wrote:
My washer has a pump that is too strong for the drains in this old house. From what I have heard, some kind of tight connection is OK as long as the washer has a pumped drain and not a gravity type.


You were given very bad advise. There is no easy fix. Fix the drain
properly.

On Jan 5, 1:50*am, "Guv Bob"
wrote:
My washer has a pump that is too strong for the drains in this old house. *From what I have heard, some kind of tight connection is OK as long as the washer has a pumped drain and not a gravity type.

Being an expert seat of the pants, shade tree type feller, I thought I better pass this by the pros here before I throw the switch.

I already rooted out the drain all the way to the sewer, and the roof vent is clear. *Still not quite big enough for the newer washer.

Sketch of what I'm think about doing:

http://imageshack.us/f/856/washerd.gif/

Many thanks,

Bob

What size pipe is the washer hose going into?

On Jan 5, 1:50*am, "Guv Bob"
wrote:
My washer has a pump that is too strong for the drains in this old house. *From what I have heard, some kind of tight connection is OK as long as the washer has a pumped drain and not a gravity type.

Being an expert seat of the pants, shade tree type feller, I thought I better pass this by the pros here before I throw the switch.

I already rooted out the drain all the way to the sewer, and the roof vent is clear. *Still not quite big enough for the newer washer.

Sketch of what I'm think about doing:

http://imageshack.us/f/856/washerd.gif/

Many thanks,

Bob

Sounds like a capacity issue in the drain line, your washer pump is
emptying the
machine faster than your drain line can drain the water away...

How long of a run at the smaller pipe size before the drain line for
your washer
empties into a larger size pipe or the main stack ?

You should also check to ensure the line in question is properly and
adequately
vented, water drains much slower through improperly vented lines than
it does
through properly vented ones -- it is difficult to break the vacuum on
a poorly
vented line and if you seal the connection as you have indicated your
washer
won't be able to introduce air into the line like the "loose" drain
connections...

~~ Evan

"Guv Bob" wrote in message
news
My washer has a pump that is too strong for the drains in this old house.
From what I have heard, some kind of tight connection is OK as long as the
washer has a pumped drain and not a gravity type.

Being an expert seat of the pants, shade tree type feller, I thought I
better pass this by the pros here before I throw the switch.

I already rooted out the drain all the way to the sewer, and the roof vent
is clear. Still not quite big enough for the newer washer.

Sketch of what I'm think about doing:

http://imageshack.us/f/856/washerd.gif/

Many thanks,

Bob



Check your drain pipe all the way from the washer to the sewer pipe.
There is NO WAY that a washer can overload a 4" sewer pipe UNLESS that pipe
is blocked.

Try renting one of those inspection cams that you can send down your drain
pipe, if need be.

Alternately, put a wash tub next to your washer and and use it as a
temporary overflow basin by limiting the outflow from it.

On Jan 4, 10:50*pm, "Guv Bob"
wrote:
My washer has a pump that is too strong for the drains in this old house. *From what I have heard, some kind of tight connection is OK as long as the washer has a pumped drain and not a gravity type.

Being an expert seat of the pants, shade tree type feller, I thought I better pass this by the pros here before I throw the switch.

I already rooted out the drain all the way to the sewer, and the roof vent is clear. *Still not quite big enough for the newer washer.

Sketch of what I'm think about doing:

http://imageshack.us/f/856/washerd.gif/

Many thanks,

Bob

Your sketch omits the drain vent....... pumping water into the drain
at a rate higher than it can accept will most likely wind up with
water being pumped up the vent line.

The good news is...... this will increase the head (pressure) in the
drain line and thus increase the flow in the drain.

The bad news ....... water might be pumped out of the roof vent.

I would suggest a laundry sink, holding tank or a drain line re-pipe
from the washer at least to where the drain bumps up to 2" or 3".

cheers
Bob

Rooting out the drain does not necessarily say it is clear for the
full diameter all that distance, unless the head of the rooter is
full drain diameter. A laundry tub is the quick and easy way to slow
down the input to the sewer. A full rodding of the drain line with a
full diameter head on the rooter is the only other solution.


On Jan 5, 12:50*am, "Guv Bob"
wrote:
My washer has a pump that is too strong for the drains in this old house. *From what I have heard, some kind of tight connection is OK as long as the washer has a pumped drain and not a gravity type.

Being an expert seat of the pants, shade tree type feller, I thought I better pass this by the pros here before I throw the switch.

I already rooted out the drain all the way to the sewer, and the roof vent is clear. *Still not quite big enough for the newer washer.

Sketch of what I'm think about doing:

http://imageshack.us/f/856/washerd.gif/

Many thanks,

Bob

It is also possible the drain line is too small diameter. I had a friend,
one time. Washing machine would back up the drain and pour all over the
floor. Turns out the PVC drain line was too small dimaeter. The cure turned
out to be replace all that PVC with larger size.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"hr(bob) " wrote in message
...
Rooting out the drain does not necessarily say it is clear for the
full diameter all that distance, unless the head of the rooter is
full drain diameter. A laundry tub is the quick and easy way to slow
down the input to the sewer. A full rodding of the drain line with a
full diameter head on the rooter is the only other solution.

On Jan 5, 12:50 am, "Guv
wrote:
My washer has a pump that is too strong for the drains in this old
house. From what I have heard, some kind of tight connection is OK
as long as the washer has a pumped drain and not a gravity type.

Being an expert seat of the pants, shade tree type feller, I
thought I better pass this by the pros here before I throw the
switch.

I already rooted out the drain all the way to the sewer, and the
roof vent is clear. Still not quite big enough for the newer
washer.

Sketch of what I'm think about doing:

http://imageshack.us/f/856/washerd.gif/

Many thanks,

Bob


You could try raising (extending) the drain the the maximum height
recommended by the washing machine manufacturer.

So far so good. No signs or sounds of any water backing up or siphoning back into the washer. Will keep an eye on and post if awl heck (sorry ladies) breaks loose. If there is a backup problem, I'll look at drilling a hole in the plastic adapter and running a 1/4-in copper tube outside thru the wall.

Here's a photo of the connection to the drain pipe.
http://imageshack.us/f/806/drain04.jpg/

Has anyone else had this problem?

Bob


"Guv Bob" wrote in message news My washer has a pump that is too strong for the drains in this old house. From what I have heard, some kind of tight connection is OK as long as the washer has a pumped drain and not a gravity type.

Being an expert seat of the pants, shade tree type feller, I thought I better pass this by the pros here before I throw the switch.

I already rooted out the drain all the way to the sewer, and the roof vent is clear. Still not quite big enough for the newer washer.

Sketch of what I'm think about doing:

http://imageshack.us/f/856/washerd.gif/

Many thanks,

Bob

On Jan 12, 5:18*pm, "Guv Bob"
wrote:
So far so good. *No signs or sounds of any water backing up or siphoning back into the washer. * Will keep an eye on and post if awl heck (sorry ladies) breaks loose. *If there is a backup problem, I'll look at drilling a hole in the plastic adapter and running a 1/4-in copper tube outside thru the wall.

Here's a photo of the connection to the drain pipe.http://imageshack.us/f/806/drain04.jpg/

Has anyone else had this problem?

Bob


Problem ?

No... You have not yet had the "problem" which is going to come
soon...

You will have your clearly undersized drain line partially blocked
with
whatever and the drain hose from the washing machine will blow out
explosively and the water in the machine will just be pumped out onto
the floor... Since it is now the weakest element in the piping and
most
washing machines have a one-way back-flow prevention device inside
the machine in the drain line so that sewage can't back up into the
machine...

~~ Evan

On Jan 13, 2:43*am, Evan wrote:
On Jan 12, 5:18*pm, "Guv Bob"
wrote:

So far so good. *No signs or sounds of any water backing up or siphoning back into the washer. * Will keep an eye on and post if awl heck (sorry ladies) breaks loose. *If there is a backup problem, I'll look at drilling a hole in the plastic adapter and running a 1/4-in copper tube outside thru the wall.

Here's a photo of the connection to the drain pipe.http://imageshack.us/f/806/drain04.jpg/

Has anyone else had this problem?

Bob

Problem ?

No... *You have not yet had the "problem" which is going to come
soon...

You will have your clearly undersized drain line partially blocked
with
whatever and the drain hose from the washing machine will blow out
explosively and the water in the machine will just be pumped out onto
the floor... *Since it is now the weakest element in the piping and
most
washing machines have a one-way back-flow prevention device inside
the machine in the drain line so that sewage can't back up into the
machine...

~~ Evan

yeah the bdrain line is way undersized, this will cause future
troubles and washer pumps arent designed for pressure, which maay
eventually damage the pump.

and slower emptying makes pump and spin run longer increasingn energy
costs

"bob haller" wrote in message ...
On Jan 13, 2:43 am, Evan wrote:
On Jan 12, 5:18 pm, "Guv Bob"
wrote:

So far so good. No signs or sounds of any water backing up or siphoning back into the washer. Will keep an eye on and post if awl heck (sorry ladies) breaks loose. If there is a backup problem, I'll look at drilling a hole in the plastic adapter and running a 1/4-in copper tube outside thru the wall.

Here's a photo of the connection to the drain pipe.http://imageshack.us/f/806/drain04.jpg/

Has anyone else had this problem?

Bob

Problem ?

No... You have not yet had the "problem" which is going to come
soon...

You will have your clearly undersized drain line partially blocked
with
whatever and the drain hose from the washing machine will blow out
explosively and the water in the machine will just be pumped out onto
the floor... Since it is now the weakest element in the piping and
most
washing machines have a one-way back-flow prevention device inside
the machine in the drain line so that sewage can't back up into the
machine...

~~ Evan

yeah the bdrain line is way undersized, this will cause future
troubles and washer pumps arent designed for pressure, which maay
eventually damage the pump.

and slower emptying makes pump and spin run longer increasingn energy
costs


Thanks. What do you think about this idea - see sketch. It would be nearly impossible to get at the existing standpipe and drain connection below.

http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/305/drain05.jpg

On Jan 14, 10:36*pm, "Guv Bob"
wrote:
"bob haller" wrote in ...

On Jan 13, 2:43 am, Evan wrote:





On Jan 12, 5:18 pm, "Guv Bob"
wrote:

So far so good. No signs or sounds of any water backing up or siphoning back into the washer. Will keep an eye on and post if awl heck (sorry ladies) breaks loose. If there is a backup problem, I'll look at drilling a hole in the plastic adapter and running a 1/4-in copper tube outside thru the wall.

Here's a photo of the connection to the drain pipe.http://imageshack.us/f/806/drain04.jpg/

Has anyone else had this problem?

Bob

Problem ?

No... You have not yet had the "problem" which is going to come
soon...

You will have your clearly undersized drain line partially blocked
with
whatever and the drain hose from the washing machine will blow out
explosively and the water in the machine will just be pumped out onto
the floor... Since it is now the weakest element in the piping and
most
washing machines have a one-way back-flow prevention device inside
the machine in the drain line so that sewage can't back up into the
machine...

~~ Evan

yeah the bdrain line is way undersized, this will cause future
troubles and washer pumps arent designed for pressure, which maay
eventually damage the pump.

and slower emptying makes pump and spin run longer increasingn energy
costs

Thanks. *What do you think about this idea - see sketch. *It would be nearly impossible to get at the existing standpipe and drain connection below.

http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/305/drain05.jpg- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

so where are you draing the excess water? might be easier to just
drain all of it there.

how bad of a job to acess the hard to reach part of the line?

or you could install a grinder / sewage pump. it includes a tank and
pump to send the drain water to a better drain location

"bob haller" wrote in message ...
On Jan 14, 10:36 pm, "Guv Bob"
wrote:
"bob haller" wrote in ...

On Jan 13, 2:43 am, Evan wrote:





On Jan 12, 5:18 pm, "Guv Bob"
wrote:

So far so good. No signs or sounds of any water backing up or siphoning back into the washer. Will keep an eye on and post if awl heck (sorry ladies) breaks loose. If there is a backup problem, I'll look at drilling a hole in the plastic adapter and running a 1/4-in copper tube outside thru the wall.

Here's a photo of the connection to the drain pipe.http://imageshack.us/f/806/drain04.jpg/

Has anyone else had this problem?

Bob

Problem ?

No... You have not yet had the "problem" which is going to come
soon...

You will have your clearly undersized drain line partially blocked
with
whatever and the drain hose from the washing machine will blow out
explosively and the water in the machine will just be pumped out onto
the floor... Since it is now the weakest element in the piping and
most
washing machines have a one-way back-flow prevention device inside
the machine in the drain line so that sewage can't back up into the
machine...

~~ Evan

yeah the bdrain line is way undersized, this will cause future
troubles and washer pumps arent designed for pressure, which maay
eventually damage the pump.

and slower emptying makes pump and spin run longer increasingn energy
costs

Thanks. What do you think about this idea - see sketch. It would be nearly impossible to get at the existing standpipe and drain connection below.

http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/305/drain05.jpg- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

so where are you draing the excess water? might be easier to just
drain all of it there.

how bad of a job to acess the hard to reach part of the line?

or you could install a grinder / sewage pump. it includes a tank and
pump to send the drain water to a better drain location

===

The overflow would be run out the wall into a drainage ditch. When I put it in, I measured the drain flow of the new washer as 6 GPM max -- same as the previous washer.

Like someone said, I think the most likely problem is the drain pipe needs rooting out. It's been 15 years at least since that was done.

The old washer had a lint filter and caught a 1/2-teaspoon full of link with a typical full load. According to GE, the new one "grinds up" the lint so "there is no need for one." That's BS.

New washer is GE Model WHRE5550K1WW. Don't EVER get one. It's one of those "water-saver" jobs with a tiny agitator. The clothes just slosh around.

I kept the old one -- when the new goes out (hopefully soon) I'll replace the transmission in the old one and put it back in. About $250 parts & labor last time I checked.