December 30, 2011, Friday
I'm going to be assistant, replacing a FPE panel, tomorrow. From what I can
figure, it means to switch off the power. Big breaker outdoors. Cut some
drywall (flush mount) and then start taking wires off breakers, and off the
neutrals and grounds.

Loosen the big feed wire, and move that to the new panel. Knock out enough
punch outs, so as to feed the smaller wires. Start to put on the Romex
connectors, feed the wires in. Put the grounds and neutrals on. Put breakers
on, and connect the black wires.

Will need light and heat, as we'll be working indoors in the winter.

What else?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 12/30/2011 11:41 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
December 30, 2011, Friday
I'm going to be assistant, replacing a FPE panel, tomorrow. From what I can
figure, it means to switch off the power. Big breaker outdoors. Cut some
drywall (flush mount) and then start taking wires off breakers, and off the
neutrals and grounds.

Loosen the big feed wire, and move that to the new panel. Knock out enough
punch outs, so as to feed the smaller wires. Start to put on the Romex
connectors, feed the wires in. Put the grounds and neutrals on. Put breakers
on, and connect the black wires.

Will need light and heat, as we'll be working indoors in the winter.

What else?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

Just mark all the 120 volt and 240 volt circuits as you remove them. Once the load wires are out, remove the feed and grounding wires.
If this is a sub panel, be sure to separate the grounding and neutral
busses, and DON'T install the bonding jumper

There's only a few circuits in the box, so I don't think it's critical to
label the wires. We can go through with some time and a couple walkie
talkies if he wants tem labelled. There's a big breaker outdoors, that feeds
this panel. It's the main panel box in the trailer. I'm not sure if this is
considered "sub panel".

Thank you for the ideas and wisdom.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"RBM" wrote in message
...

Just mark all the 120 volt and 240 volt circuits as you remove them. Once
the load wires are out, remove the feed and grounding wires.
If this is a sub panel, be sure to separate the grounding and neutral
busses, and DON'T install the bonding jumper

On 12/30/2011 5:35 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
There's only a few circuits in the box, so I don't think it's critical to
label the wires. We can go through with some time and a couple walkie
talkies if he wants tem labelled. There's a big breaker outdoors, that feeds
this panel. It's the main panel box in the trailer. I'm not sure if this is
considered "sub panel".

Thank you for the ideas and wisdom.

I wasn't suggesting a need to label where the circuits go, just to
identify those that are 120 volt, from those that are 240 volt

On Dec 30, 5:57*pm, RBM wrote:
On 12/30/2011 5:35 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote: There's only a few circuits in the box, so I don't think it's critical to
label the wires. We can go through with some time and a couple walkie
talkies if he wants tem labelled. There's a big breaker outdoors, that feeds
this panel. It's the main panel box in the trailer. I'm not sure if this is
considered "sub panel".

Thank you for the ideas and wisdom.

I wasn't suggesting a need to label where the circuits go, just to
identify those that are 120 volt, from those that are 240 volt

and what size (how many amps) breaker they each go to

a picture or two is a good idea

Mark

On 12/30/2011 6:05 PM, Mark wrote:
On Dec 30, 5:57 pm, wrote:
On 12/30/2011 5:35 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote: There's only a few circuits in the box, so I don't think it's critical to
label the wires. We can go through with some time and a couple walkie
talkies if he wants tem labelled. There's a big breaker outdoors, that feeds
this panel. It's the main panel box in the trailer. I'm not sure if this is
considered "sub panel".

Thank you for the ideas and wisdom.

I wasn't suggesting a need to label where the circuits go, just to
identify those that are 120 volt, from those that are 240 volt

and what size (how many amps) breaker they each go to

a picture or two is a good idea

Mark

I would not assume that they are currently connected to the proper size
breakers. I would size the breaker to the conductor size as I was
reinstalling the loads

Oops! Now that I understand what you mean, it makes a LOT more sense. Great
idea. Thank you.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"RBM" wrote in message
...

I wasn't suggesting a need to label where the circuits go, just to
identify those that are 120 volt, from those that are 240 volt

Mark, please send your post again. For some reason, it didn't come through
my server.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 12/30/2011 5:09 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Mark, please send your post again. For some reason, it didn't come through
my server.

Mark, please don't.

Go to alternate server if you really, really, really think you just must
see what he said--(essentially repeat of others' advice).

HeyBub covered every point made there and more...

--

I used to get those silly error messages all the time too until I
switched to giganews. Giganews is fast and it always works.

On 12/30/2011 6:09 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Mark, please send your post again. For some reason, it didn't come through
my server.

On Dec 30, 5:57*pm, RBM wrote:
On 12/30/2011 5:35 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote: There's only a few circuits in the box, so I don't think it's critical to
label the wires. We can go through with some time and a couple walkie
talkies if he wants tem labelled. There's a big breaker outdoors, that feeds
this panel. It's the main panel box in the trailer. I'm not sure if this is
considered "sub panel".

Thank you for the ideas and wisdom.

I wasn't suggesting a need to label where the circuits go, just to
identify those that are 120 volt, from those that are 240 volt

Only takes a minute to label them right the first time. Maybe I should
say label the way they were to start with.

Jimmie

The 240 volt circuits turned out to be either larger gage wire, or were
colored (red and black) or both. Turned out to be a non issue. The H.O.
decided not to try and trace where each breaker went. Too much bother, too
little benefit.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"JIMMIE" wrote in message
...

I wasn't suggesting a need to label where the circuits go, just to
identify those that are 120 volt, from those that are 240 volt

Only takes a minute to label them right the first time. Maybe I should
say label the way they were to start with.

Jimmie

Stormin Mormon wrote:
December 30, 2011, Friday
I'm going to be assistant, replacing a FPE panel, tomorrow. From what
I can figure, it means to switch off the power. Big breaker outdoors.
Cut some drywall (flush mount) and then start taking wires off
breakers, and off the neutrals and grounds.

Loosen the big feed wire, and move that to the new panel. Knock out
enough punch outs, so as to feed the smaller wires. Start to put on
the Romex connectors, feed the wires in. Put the grounds and neutrals
on. Put breakers on, and connect the black wires.

Will need light and heat, as we'll be working indoors in the winter.

What else?


1. Take two or three pictures before you begin.
2. Label each wire, 1,2,3... And make a list, by number, of the size breaker
to which it is attached.
3. Extra care on 220v black pairs to get them together.
4. You'll possibly need:
a. A long extension to a neighbor or a fully charged drill or two
b. Metal-cutting hole saw
c. A nearby box store for misc connectors, buss extensions, and
funny-looking things that live only in circuit-breaker boxes.
d. A can of Great Stuff to smooth out any mistakes.
5. After everything is in place, go back and re-tighten all the screws.

My son and I replaced a 200-Amp box on my house. The project was time
consuming - about five hours since we'd never done this before - but very
strightforward. A couple of weeks later we repeated the project on my son's
house. This time it only took three hours since we (mostly) knew what we
were doing.

wrote in message
...


Will need light and heat, as we'll be working indoors in the winter.

What else?



Do you happen to have an outlet outdoors that is connected ahead of
that big main breaker, or a subfeed to a garage or other shed? If you
do, you can run a heavy extension cord into the house for lights, and
if you use a heavy cord #14 or #12, you can wirenut a cord on the
furnace wires to get heat.

CY: I doubt it. I've suggested Tim ask a neighbor to let him use power, but
he's going to use a gasoline generator for power, instead.

I've taken 100 ft. (or other length) of
romex and put a plug on the end to make such a cord if I did not have
a suitable cord. This will work for temporary situations. If you
dont have an outdoor outlet or shed, maybe feed from a neighbor's
house.

CY: One fire department I was in, used a 250 foot roll of Romex, plug on one
end, four socket junction box on the other end, for temporary power to the
pavillion.

If none of these are an option, they make decent LED work-lights for
around $30 and when they get dim, plug them into your car's
cig-lighter to recharge. I've even run wires from my car battery into
a building to operate a 12V work-light. Of course you may need to run
the car at intervals or you'll be calling a friend to junp start it.

CY: I've got assortment of various jumper packs and such. I'd been thinking
propane lantern, for heat and light.

Those portable kerosene or propane heaters will help keep you warm,
but be careful to get enough ventilation to avoid carbon monoxide.

CY: Do also have a propane infared heater, if starts to get cold.

LED worklights are easy on the car battery compared to the 12v
incandescnt bulbs.

CY: So true. Thank you for some good ideas.

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 18:21:53 -0600, wrote:

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 18:03:36 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Do you happen to have an outlet outdoors that is connected ahead of
that big main breaker, or a subfeed to a garage or other shed? If you
do, you can run a heavy extension cord into the house for lights, and
if you use a heavy cord #14 or #12, you can wirenut a cord on the
furnace wires to get heat.

CY: I doubt it. I've suggested Tim ask a neighbor to let him use power, but
he's going to use a gasoline generator for power, instead.

I've taken 100 ft. (or other length) of
romex and put a plug on the end to make such a cord if I did not have
a suitable cord. This will work for temporary situations. If you
dont have an outdoor outlet or shed, maybe feed from a neighbor's
house.

CY: One fire department I was in, used a 250 foot roll of Romex, plug on one
end, four socket junction box on the other end, for temporary power to the
pavillion.

If none of these are an option, they make decent LED work-lights for
around $30 and when they get dim, plug them into your car's
cig-lighter to recharge. I've even run wires from my car battery into
a building to operate a 12V work-light. Of course you may need to run
the car at intervals or you'll be calling a friend to junp start it.

CY: I've got assortment of various jumper packs and such. I'd been thinking
propane lantern, for heat and light.

Those portable kerosene or propane heaters will help keep you warm,
but be careful to get enough ventilation to avoid carbon monoxide.

CY: Do also have a propane infared heater, if starts to get cold.

LED worklights are easy on the car battery compared to the 12v
incandescnt bulbs.

CY: So true. Thank you for some good ideas.


You should be able to run your furnace off that generator if it's got
enough amperage. Take the cable that feeds the furnace out of the
breaker box, wirenut a #14 cord on to it, and plug it in.

I see a lot of temporary romex made cords used at summer festivals and
fairs. Since it's plugged in and temporary I dont think it violates
any codes. Most of these cords at these events are made by licensed
electricians anyhow.

Last summer our county fair was during a severe heat spell, and the
farmers who had cattle were running around 120 fans in the barns.
Mostly those big fans with half-horse or larger motors. The
electrician was struggling to make all kinds of temporary cords, and
he was not pleased. In fact he plans to install more permanent
outlets in those barns before the next fair. I guess those 5 days of
the fair, where he was on call 24/7 must have wore him out.

Those Mr. Heater infared heaters work well. I use one on my toolshed
in winter. But they do need ventilation to be safe. My toolshed is
12X16, so it's not real big, but it's not insulated. But it stays
pretty warm with that heater. I just start the heater an hour befoere
I go in there to work.
Get everything ready to pull first. Disconnect all but the light
where you are working and the furnace.
Then do the disconnect and pull the panel.
Get the panel in and the power back on.
Hook up the work light, then the furnace, then the rest of the
circuits. You only need to be out of power, and cold, for half an
hour AT MOST.

On 12/30/2011 10:00 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 18:21:53 -0600, wrote:

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 18:03:36 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Do you happen to have an outlet outdoors that is connected ahead of
that big main breaker, or a subfeed to a garage or other shed? If you
do, you can run a heavy extension cord into the house for lights, and
if you use a heavy cord #14 or #12, you can wirenut a cord on the
furnace wires to get heat.

CY: I doubt it. I've suggested Tim ask a neighbor to let him use power, but
he's going to use a gasoline generator for power, instead.

I've taken 100 ft. (or other length) of
romex and put a plug on the end to make such a cord if I did not have
a suitable cord. This will work for temporary situations. If you
dont have an outdoor outlet or shed, maybe feed from a neighbor's
house.

CY: One fire department I was in, used a 250 foot roll of Romex, plug on one
end, four socket junction box on the other end, for temporary power to the
pavillion.

If none of these are an option, they make decent LED work-lights for
around $30 and when they get dim, plug them into your car's
cig-lighter to recharge. I've even run wires from my car battery into
a building to operate a 12V work-light. Of course you may need to run
the car at intervals or you'll be calling a friend to junp start it.

CY: I've got assortment of various jumper packs and such. I'd been thinking
propane lantern, for heat and light.

Those portable kerosene or propane heaters will help keep you warm,
but be careful to get enough ventilation to avoid carbon monoxide.

CY: Do also have a propane infared heater, if starts to get cold.

LED worklights are easy on the car battery compared to the 12v
incandescnt bulbs.

CY: So true. Thank you for some good ideas.


You should be able to run your furnace off that generator if it's got
enough amperage. Take the cable that feeds the furnace out of the
breaker box, wirenut a #14 cord on to it, and plug it in.

I see a lot of temporary romex made cords used at summer festivals and
fairs. Since it's plugged in and temporary I dont think it violates
any codes. Most of these cords at these events are made by licensed
electricians anyhow.

Last summer our county fair was during a severe heat spell, and the
farmers who had cattle were running around 120 fans in the barns.
Mostly those big fans with half-horse or larger motors. The
electrician was struggling to make all kinds of temporary cords, and
he was not pleased. In fact he plans to install more permanent
outlets in those barns before the next fair. I guess those 5 days of
the fair, where he was on call 24/7 must have wore him out.

Those Mr. Heater infared heaters work well. I use one on my toolshed
in winter. But they do need ventilation to be safe. My toolshed is
12X16, so it's not real big, but it's not insulated. But it stays
pretty warm with that heater. I just start the heater an hour befoere
I go in there to work.
Get everything ready to pull first. Disconnect all but the light
where you are working and the furnace.
Then do the disconnect and pull the panel.
Get the panel in and the power back on.
Hook up the work light, then the furnace, then the rest of the
circuits. You only need to be out of power, and cold, for half an
hour AT MOST.

It would be unnecessarily dangerous, and time consuming to pull all the
cables, especially NM cables with bare ground wires, from a live panel.

You know, I'd probably have thought of that tomorrow. I'd rather use a
propane heater and a strap on head lamp, and work on a "cold" panel. Rather
than risk frying myself.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"RBM" wrote in message
...

Get everything ready to pull first. Disconnect all but the light
where you are working and the furnace.
Then do the disconnect and pull the panel.
Get the panel in and the power back on.
Hook up the work light, then the furnace, then the rest of the
circuits. You only need to be out of power, and cold, for half an
hour AT MOST.

It would be unnecessarily dangerous, and time consuming to pull all the
cables, especially NM cables with bare ground wires, from a live panel.

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 23:27:45 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

You know, I'd probably have thought of that tomorrow. I'd rather use a
propane heater and a strap on head lamp, and work on a "cold" panel. Rather
than risk frying myself.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org

Only you know your capability and level of comfort. Go with your gut.
I'm relatively comfortable working on a live panel, but I've done it
often enough before.
.

"RBM" wrote in message
...

Get everything ready to pull first. Disconnect all but the light
where you are working and the furnace.
Then do the disconnect and pull the panel.
Get the panel in and the power back on.
Hook up the work light, then the furnace, then the rest of the
circuits. You only need to be out of power, and cold, for half an
hour AT MOST.

It would be unnecessarily dangerous, and time consuming to pull all the
cables, especially NM cables with bare ground wires, from a live panel.

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 22:09:05 -0500, RBM wrote:

On 12/30/2011 10:00 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 18:21:53 -0600, wrote:

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 18:03:36 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Do you happen to have an outlet outdoors that is connected ahead of
that big main breaker, or a subfeed to a garage or other shed? If you
do, you can run a heavy extension cord into the house for lights, and
if you use a heavy cord #14 or #12, you can wirenut a cord on the
furnace wires to get heat.

CY: I doubt it. I've suggested Tim ask a neighbor to let him use power, but
he's going to use a gasoline generator for power, instead.

I've taken 100 ft. (or other length) of
romex and put a plug on the end to make such a cord if I did not have
a suitable cord. This will work for temporary situations. If you
dont have an outdoor outlet or shed, maybe feed from a neighbor's
house.

CY: One fire department I was in, used a 250 foot roll of Romex, plug on one
end, four socket junction box on the other end, for temporary power to the
pavillion.

If none of these are an option, they make decent LED work-lights for
around $30 and when they get dim, plug them into your car's
cig-lighter to recharge. I've even run wires from my car battery into
a building to operate a 12V work-light. Of course you may need to run
the car at intervals or you'll be calling a friend to junp start it.

CY: I've got assortment of various jumper packs and such. I'd been thinking
propane lantern, for heat and light.

Those portable kerosene or propane heaters will help keep you warm,
but be careful to get enough ventilation to avoid carbon monoxide.

CY: Do also have a propane infared heater, if starts to get cold.

LED worklights are easy on the car battery compared to the 12v
incandescnt bulbs.

CY: So true. Thank you for some good ideas.


You should be able to run your furnace off that generator if it's got
enough amperage. Take the cable that feeds the furnace out of the
breaker box, wirenut a #14 cord on to it, and plug it in.

I see a lot of temporary romex made cords used at summer festivals and
fairs. Since it's plugged in and temporary I dont think it violates
any codes. Most of these cords at these events are made by licensed
electricians anyhow.

Last summer our county fair was during a severe heat spell, and the
farmers who had cattle were running around 120 fans in the barns.
Mostly those big fans with half-horse or larger motors. The
electrician was struggling to make all kinds of temporary cords, and
he was not pleased. In fact he plans to install more permanent
outlets in those barns before the next fair. I guess those 5 days of
the fair, where he was on call 24/7 must have wore him out.

Those Mr. Heater infared heaters work well. I use one on my toolshed
in winter. But they do need ventilation to be safe. My toolshed is
12X16, so it's not real big, but it's not insulated. But it stays
pretty warm with that heater. I just start the heater an hour befoere
I go in there to work.
Get everything ready to pull first. Disconnect all but the light
where you are working and the furnace.
Then do the disconnect and pull the panel.
Get the panel in and the power back on.
Hook up the work light, then the furnace, then the rest of the
circuits. You only need to be out of power, and cold, for half an
hour AT MOST.

It would be unnecessarily dangerous, and time consuming to pull all the
cables, especially NM cables with bare ground wires, from a live panel.
HOW? You are doing it in the warm, with good light and you have at
least half a brain.

Disconnecting and replacing the panel without the power disconnected
(and locked out) might be dangerous -

Started the job about 10 Am. Tim had pulled all the wires off the FPE
breakers, and pulled the bus bars out. Wires pointing in every which what
direction. I loosened a bunch of wires, and slipped them out. The new panel
box, I had to knock a few of the knock outs. Tape the big power feed wires,
they were pointing in different directions. The panel box new is smaller, so
I've got room to work.

The wires are now into the box. Some are too short. Some breakers are wrong,
need a double 30 for the HWH for example.

We broke for lunch, and parts list. wire nuts, wire, and so on. I'll be
going back to work in a few minutes. Gather some parts, and go back down the
road. The job is actually going rather well.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...


It would be unnecessarily dangerous, and time consuming to pull all the
cables, especially NM cables with bare ground wires, from a live panel.
HOW? You are doing it in the warm, with good light and you have at
least half a brain.

Disconnecting and replacing the panel without the power disconnected
(and locked out) might be dangerous -

On 12/31/2011 1:11 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 22:09:05 -0500, wrote:

On 12/30/2011 10:00 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 18:21:53 -0600, wrote:

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 18:03:36 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Do you happen to have an outlet outdoors that is connected ahead of
that big main breaker, or a subfeed to a garage or other shed? If you
do, you can run a heavy extension cord into the house for lights, and
if you use a heavy cord #14 or #12, you can wirenut a cord on the
furnace wires to get heat.

CY: I doubt it. I've suggested Tim ask a neighbor to let him use power, but
he's going to use a gasoline generator for power, instead.

I've taken 100 ft. (or other length) of
romex and put a plug on the end to make such a cord if I did not have
a suitable cord. This will work for temporary situations. If you
dont have an outdoor outlet or shed, maybe feed from a neighbor's
house.

CY: One fire department I was in, used a 250 foot roll of Romex, plug on one
end, four socket junction box on the other end, for temporary power to the
pavillion.

If none of these are an option, they make decent LED work-lights for
around $30 and when they get dim, plug them into your car's
cig-lighter to recharge. I've even run wires from my car battery into
a building to operate a 12V work-light. Of course you may need to run
the car at intervals or you'll be calling a friend to junp start it.

CY: I've got assortment of various jumper packs and such. I'd been thinking
propane lantern, for heat and light.

Those portable kerosene or propane heaters will help keep you warm,
but be careful to get enough ventilation to avoid carbon monoxide.

CY: Do also have a propane infared heater, if starts to get cold.

LED worklights are easy on the car battery compared to the 12v
incandescnt bulbs.

CY: So true. Thank you for some good ideas.


You should be able to run your furnace off that generator if it's got
enough amperage. Take the cable that feeds the furnace out of the
breaker box, wirenut a #14 cord on to it, and plug it in.

I see a lot of temporary romex made cords used at summer festivals and
fairs. Since it's plugged in and temporary I dont think it violates
any codes. Most of these cords at these events are made by licensed
electricians anyhow.

Last summer our county fair was during a severe heat spell, and the
farmers who had cattle were running around 120 fans in the barns.
Mostly those big fans with half-horse or larger motors. The
electrician was struggling to make all kinds of temporary cords, and
he was not pleased. In fact he plans to install more permanent
outlets in those barns before the next fair. I guess those 5 days of
the fair, where he was on call 24/7 must have wore him out.

Those Mr. Heater infared heaters work well. I use one on my toolshed
in winter. But they do need ventilation to be safe. My toolshed is
12X16, so it's not real big, but it's not insulated. But it stays
pretty warm with that heater. I just start the heater an hour befoere
I go in there to work.
Get everything ready to pull first. Disconnect all but the light
where you are working and the furnace.
Then do the disconnect and pull the panel.
Get the panel in and the power back on.
Hook up the work light, then the furnace, then the rest of the
circuits. You only need to be out of power, and cold, for half an
hour AT MOST.

It would be unnecessarily dangerous, and time consuming to pull all the
cables, especially NM cables with bare ground wires, from a live panel.
HOW? You are doing it in the warm, with good light and you have at
least half a brain.

Disconnecting and replacing the panel without the power disconnected
(and locked out) might be dangerous -

If you had half a brain, you'd do this more quickly and more safely,
with the power to the panel disconnected. Google can give you
information, but obviously, not experience

You know, that might work. Thanks for a good idea.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...

Get everything ready to pull first. Disconnect all but the light
where you are working and the furnace.
Then do the disconnect and pull the panel.
Get the panel in and the power back on.
Hook up the work light, then the furnace, then the rest of the
circuits. You only need to be out of power, and cold, for half an
hour AT MOST.

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 23:26:37 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

You know, that might work. Thanks for a good idea.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

wrote in message
.. .

Get everything ready to pull first. Disconnect all but the light
where you are working and the furnace.
Then do the disconnect and pull the panel.
Get the panel in and the power back on.
Hook up the work light, then the furnace, then the rest of the
circuits. You only need to be out of power, and cold, for half an
hour AT MOST.

I've done it several times - including the main panel at the
dealership a few decades ago. Got the panel out while there was still
light coming in the window - got the new one in and power on to one
circuit with headlights shining in the window, and finished the rest
with power on.

You should be able to run your furnace off that generator if it's got
enough amperage. Take the cable that feeds the furnace out of the
breaker box, wirenut a #14 cord on to it, and plug it in.

CY: I save old line cords from appliances, for reasons such as this.

I see a lot of temporary romex made cords used at summer festivals and
fairs. Since it's plugged in and temporary I dont think it violates
any codes. Most of these cords at these events are made by licensed
electricians anyhow.

CY: I'm sure they are just fine. Ideally, they should be UF, which is ultra
violent light resistant. But, they must work OK.

Last summer our county fair was during a severe heat spell, and the
farmers who had cattle were running around 120 fans in the barns.
Mostly those big fans with half-horse or larger motors. The
electrician was struggling to make all kinds of temporary cords, and
he was not pleased. In fact he plans to install more permanent
outlets in those barns before the next fair. I guess those 5 days of
the fair, where he was on call 24/7 must have wore him out.

CY: Wow, that'd a good reason for more power sockets. I bet they (cattle and
man alike) went through a lot of water, also.


Those Mr. Heater infared heaters work well. I use one on my toolshed
in winter. But they do need ventilation to be safe. My toolshed is
12X16, so it's not real big, but it's not insulated. But it stays
pretty warm with that heater. I just start the heater an hour befoere
I go in there to work.

CY: Mine is even less safe than a Mr. Heater catalytic. But, I figure Tim
and I are non smokers, and we'll be in and out a lot, so we won't really be
too badly exposed to monoxide.

We did consider that option, and it's an honest question. The replacement
breakers cost about $35 each. For a single 15 breaker. He had maybe a dozen
circuits, plus three doubles. Need 240 volt feed for a sub panel, electric
dryer, and a water heater that needed double breakers. So, the cost of
replacement breakers would have been $400 or more.

On hand, he had a bunch of new old stock breakers that he'd bought over
years. The new panel box was $55, of course plus the labor of two men for a
day to put it in. We weren't missing any money work that day, we were
workign cheap.

So, the cost of FPE breakers would have been noticably more than the
replacement.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...

Just curious, I know Federal Pacific panels have been known to be
dangerous, but if I recall correctly, there is a replacement breaker
that was made fro their boxes which are safe. Why didn't you just
replace the breakers?