Looks like my electric hot water heater has sprung a leak near the
bottom next to the threaded hole for the drain. If I drained the thing
and unscrewed the drain pipe I could probably reach in and daub
something on the leak, but I'm guessing that wouldn't last and isn't
worth the bother.

....So I want to replace this electric with a gas water heater. I'm
guessing that means going to the county and pulling a permit so that
an inspector can check my work? I have a gas furnace and I'm tired of
having a $20 minimum gas bill every month all Spring, Summer and Fall
for nothing.

On Dec 25, 2:08*pm, Davej wrote:
Looks like my electric hot water heater has sprung a leak near the
bottom next to the threaded hole for the drain. If I drained the thing
and unscrewed the drain pipe I could probably reach in and daub
something on the leak, but I'm guessing that wouldn't last and isn't
worth the bother.

...So I want to replace this electric with a gas water heater. I'm
guessing that means going to the county and pulling a permit so that
an inspector can check my work? I have a gas furnace and I'm tired of
having a $20 minimum gas bill every month all Spring, Summer and Fall
for nothing.

This is a simple appliance replacement. In many jurisdictions that
does not require a permit. If you ask, don't go overboard with
details. It only confuses some bureaucrats.
Start now collecting the right tools and materials, black iron pipe,
pipe cutter, threading dies (Harbor Freight is decent, Ridgid if you
intend to do it for a living). Also pipe dope (Teflon type), clips and
anchors, street ells, tees, ells, unions, nipples, caps and plugs.
Lay out a plan and figure out exactly what you will need, maybe add a
plugged tee for a future back yard barbecue. Box store pipe is OK, but
being Chinese it is not always perfectly round and will be harder to
start a thread than American made. A small mounted pipe vise is cheap
handy accessory, too.
The plastic covered SS corrugated gas pipe is under fire now for
problems, so avoid that until they get the situation resolved. HTH

Joe

Davej wrote:
Looks like my electric hot water heater has sprung a leak near the
bottom next to the threaded hole for the drain. If I drained the thing
and unscrewed the drain pipe I could probably reach in and daub
something on the leak, but I'm guessing that wouldn't last and isn't
worth the bother.

...So I want to replace this electric with a gas water heater. I'm
guessing that means going to the county and pulling a permit so that
an inspector can check my work? I have a gas furnace and I'm tired of
having a $20 minimum gas bill every month all Spring, Summer and Fall
for nothing.

You may not need a permit - it depends on how much your county wants to rip
off its residents. Plus, if you start the bureacratic ball rolling, they may
insist that the work be done by a licensed and blessed plumber. Best to call
them and ask. Anonymously.

I don't think you'll need a bunch of pipe tools - dies, etc. Standard
lengths from the box store should get you close enough to the new water
heater such that a flexible pipe, three feet or so, can complete the
connection.

I'm with you on saving money. I live in a duplex - converted to single
family - and hooked the two gas supplies together. Then I had the gas
company shut off service to one side. Saved $18.00/month.

On Dec 25, 4:28*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Davej wrote:
Looks like my electric hot water heater has sprung a leak near the
bottom next to the threaded hole for the drain. If I drained the thing
and unscrewed the drain pipe I could probably reach in and daub
something on the leak, but I'm guessing that wouldn't last and isn't
worth the bother.

...So I want to replace this electric with a gas water heater. I'm
guessing that means going to the county and pulling a permit so that
an inspector can check my work? I have a gas furnace and I'm tired of
having a $20 minimum gas bill every month all Spring, Summer and Fall
for nothing.

You may not need a permit - it depends on how much your county wants to rip
off its residents. Plus, if you start the bureacratic ball rolling, they may
insist that the work be done by a licensed and blessed plumber. Best to call
them and ask. Anonymously.

I don't think you'll need a bunch of pipe tools - dies, etc. Standard
lengths from the box store should get you close enough to the new water
heater such that a flexible pipe, three feet or so, can complete the
connection.

I'm with you on saving money. I live in a duplex - converted to single
family - and hooked the two gas supplies together. Then I had the gas
company shut off service to one side. Saved $18.00/month.

does your home have a convenient vent for the new gas water heater
chimney? thats essential

On Dec 25, 3:36*pm, bob haller wrote:
On Dec 25, 4:28*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:









Davej wrote:
Looks like my electric hot water heater has sprung a leak near the
bottom next to the threaded hole for the drain. If I drained the thing
and unscrewed the drain pipe I could probably reach in and daub
something on the leak, but I'm guessing that wouldn't last and isn't
worth the bother.

...So I want to replace this electric with a gas water heater. I'm
guessing that means going to the county and pulling a permit so that
an inspector can check my work? I have a gas furnace and I'm tired of
having a $20 minimum gas bill every month all Spring, Summer and Fall
for nothing.

You may not need a permit - it depends on how much your county wants to rip
off its residents. Plus, if you start the bureacratic ball rolling, they may
insist that the work be done by a licensed and blessed plumber. Best to call
them and ask. Anonymously.

I don't think you'll need a bunch of pipe tools - dies, etc. Standard
lengths from the box store should get you close enough to the new water
heater such that a flexible pipe, three feet or so, can complete the
connection.

I'm with you on saving money. I live in a duplex - converted to single
family - and hooked the two gas supplies together. Then I had the gas
company shut off service to one side. Saved $18.00/month.

does your home have a convenient vent for the new gas water heater
chimney? thats essential

This 50 yo house still has the chimney that was used for the original
oil furnace so I am thinking I can use that for the hot water heater.
The current gas furnace has the PVC pipe scheme so the old chimney has
been unused and capped off. If I position the water heater next to the
furnace I shouldn't need to add more than a minimal amount of gas
pipe.

On Dec 25, 7:32*pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 12/25/2011 1:47 PM, Davej wrote:
On Dec 25, 3:36 pm, bob *wrote:
On Dec 25, 4:28 pm, *wrote:

Davej wrote:
Looks like my electric hot water heater has sprung a leak near the
bottom next to the threaded hole for the drain. If I drained the thing
and unscrewed the drain pipe I could probably reach in and daub
something on the leak, but I'm guessing that wouldn't last and isn't
worth the bother.

...So I want to replace this electric with a gas water heater. I'm
guessing that means going to the county and pulling a permit so that
an inspector can check my work? I have a gas furnace and I'm tired of
having a $20 minimum gas bill every month all Spring, Summer and Fall
for nothing.

You may not need a permit - it depends on how much your county wants to rip
off its residents. Plus, if you start the bureacratic ball rolling, they may
insist that the work be done by a licensed and blessed plumber. Best to call
them and ask. Anonymously.

I don't think you'll need a bunch of pipe tools - dies, etc. Standard
lengths from the box store should get you close enough to the new water
heater such that a flexible pipe, three feet or so, can complete the
connection.

I'm with you on saving money. I live in a duplex - converted to single
family - and hooked the two gas supplies together. Then I had the gas
company shut off service to one side. Saved $18.00/month.

does your home have a convenient vent for the new gas water heater
chimney? thats essential

This 50 yo house still has the chimney that was used for the original
oil furnace so I am thinking I can use that for the hot water heater.
The current gas furnace has the PVC pipe scheme so the old chimney has
been unused and capped off. If I position the water heater next to the
furnace I shouldn't need to add more than a minimal amount of gas
pipe.

if that old 'chimney' is brick or pipe bigger than 5" diameter, you'll
want to line the thing with a stainless or alumnimum liner to prevent
condensation and insure proper draft. *Just sticking a 3" line into an
old chimney is done all the time, but is FAR from good.


This is a 5" chimney pipe that goes right up through the center of the
house. Maybe running a 3" aluminum pipe inside it would be a good
idea? I am also wondering about the acceptable amount of offset in the
basement -- as I don't really want to position the water heater
directly under the chimney pipe, but would prefer to have it several
feet over.

On 12/25/2011 6:20 PM, Davej wrote:
....

This is a 5" chimney pipe that goes right up through the center of the
house. Maybe running a 3" aluminum pipe inside it would be a good
idea? I am also wondering about the acceptable amount of offset in the
basement -- as I don't really want to position the water heater
directly under the chimney pipe, but would prefer to have it several
feet over.

The water heater here vents into an old masonry chimney w/ a horizontal
run from the exit elbow into the chimney w/ no problems.

--

On Dec 25, 7:53*pm, dpb wrote:
On 12/25/2011 6:20 PM, Davej wrote:
...

This is a 5" chimney pipe that goes right up through the center of the
house. Maybe running a 3" aluminum pipe inside it would be a good
idea? I am also wondering about the acceptable amount of offset in the
basement -- as I don't really want to position the water heater
directly under the chimney pipe, but would prefer to have it several
feet over.

The water heater here vents into an old masonry chimney w/ a horizontal
run from the exit elbow into the chimney w/ no problems.

--

5 inch chimney is likely too big.........

draw will be poor because the water heaters exhaust wouldnt heat up
the chimney enough

On 12/25/2011 1:47 PM, Davej wrote:
On Dec 25, 3:36 pm, bob wrote:
On Dec 25, 4:28 pm, wrote:









Davej wrote:
Looks like my electric hot water heater has sprung a leak near the
bottom next to the threaded hole for the drain. If I drained the thing
and unscrewed the drain pipe I could probably reach in and daub
something on the leak, but I'm guessing that wouldn't last and isn't
worth the bother.

...So I want to replace this electric with a gas water heater. I'm
guessing that means going to the county and pulling a permit so that
an inspector can check my work? I have a gas furnace and I'm tired of
having a $20 minimum gas bill every month all Spring, Summer and Fall
for nothing.

You may not need a permit - it depends on how much your county wants to rip
off its residents. Plus, if you start the bureacratic ball rolling, they may
insist that the work be done by a licensed and blessed plumber. Best to call
them and ask. Anonymously.

I don't think you'll need a bunch of pipe tools - dies, etc. Standard
lengths from the box store should get you close enough to the new water
heater such that a flexible pipe, three feet or so, can complete the
connection.

I'm with you on saving money. I live in a duplex - converted to single
family - and hooked the two gas supplies together. Then I had the gas
company shut off service to one side. Saved $18.00/month.

does your home have a convenient vent for the new gas water heater
chimney? thats essential

This 50 yo house still has the chimney that was used for the original
oil furnace so I am thinking I can use that for the hot water heater.
The current gas furnace has the PVC pipe scheme so the old chimney has
been unused and capped off. If I position the water heater next to the
furnace I shouldn't need to add more than a minimal amount of gas
pipe.

if that old 'chimney' is brick or pipe bigger than 5" diameter, you'll
want to line the thing with a stainless or alumnimum liner to prevent
condensation and insure proper draft. Just sticking a 3" line into an
old chimney is done all the time, but is FAR from good.


--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 12/25/2011 5:32 PM, Steve Barker wrote:


if that old 'chimney' is brick or pipe bigger than 5" diameter, you'll
want to line the thing with a stainless or alumnimum liner to prevent
condensation and insure proper draft. Just sticking a 3" line into an
old chimney is done all the time, but is FAR from good.



There are also "direct vent" (two pvc pipes) and Power vent (one pvc
pipe) units that will vent sideways through the wall with 2" pvc. But
they are pricy.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 12/25/2011 4:20 PM, Davej wrote:
On Dec 25, 7:32 pm, Steve wrote:
On 12/25/2011 1:47 PM, Davej wrote:
On Dec 25, 3:36 pm, bob wrote:
On Dec 25, 4:28 pm, wrote:

Davej wrote:
Looks like my electric hot water heater has sprung a leak near the
bottom next to the threaded hole for the drain. If I drained the thing
and unscrewed the drain pipe I could probably reach in and daub
something on the leak, but I'm guessing that wouldn't last and isn't
worth the bother.

...So I want to replace this electric with a gas water heater. I'm
guessing that means going to the county and pulling a permit so that
an inspector can check my work? I have a gas furnace and I'm tired of
having a $20 minimum gas bill every month all Spring, Summer and Fall
for nothing.

You may not need a permit - it depends on how much your county wants to rip
off its residents. Plus, if you start the bureacratic ball rolling, they may
insist that the work be done by a licensed and blessed plumber. Best to call
them and ask. Anonymously.

I don't think you'll need a bunch of pipe tools - dies, etc. Standard
lengths from the box store should get you close enough to the new water
heater such that a flexible pipe, three feet or so, can complete the
connection.

I'm with you on saving money. I live in a duplex - converted to single
family - and hooked the two gas supplies together. Then I had the gas
company shut off service to one side. Saved $18.00/month.

does your home have a convenient vent for the new gas water heater
chimney? thats essential

This 50 yo house still has the chimney that was used for the original
oil furnace so I am thinking I can use that for the hot water heater.
The current gas furnace has the PVC pipe scheme so the old chimney has
been unused and capped off. If I position the water heater next to the
furnace I shouldn't need to add more than a minimal amount of gas
pipe.

if that old 'chimney' is brick or pipe bigger than 5" diameter, you'll
want to line the thing with a stainless or alumnimum liner to prevent
condensation and insure proper draft. Just sticking a 3" line into an
old chimney is done all the time, but is FAR from good.


This is a 5" chimney pipe that goes right up through the center of the
house. Maybe running a 3" aluminum pipe inside it would be a good
idea? I am also wondering about the acceptable amount of offset in the
basement -- as I don't really want to position the water heater
directly under the chimney pipe, but would prefer to have it several
feet over.

as long as you have it visibly sloped it is fine

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Sun, 25 Dec 2011 13:47:14 -0800 (PST), Davej
wrote:

On Dec 25, 3:36Â*pm, bob haller wrote:
On Dec 25, 4:28Â*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:









Davej wrote:
Looks like my electric hot water heater has sprung a leak near the
bottom next to the threaded hole for the drain. If I drained the thing
and unscrewed the drain pipe I could probably reach in and daub
something on the leak, but I'm guessing that wouldn't last and isn't
worth the bother.

...So I want to replace this electric with a gas water heater. I'm
guessing that means going to the county and pulling a permit so that
an inspector can check my work? I have a gas furnace and I'm tired of
having a $20 minimum gas bill every month all Spring, Summer and Fall
for nothing.

You may not need a permit - it depends on how much your county wants to rip
off its residents. Plus, if you start the bureacratic ball rolling, they may
insist that the work be done by a licensed and blessed plumber. Best to call
them and ask. Anonymously.

I don't think you'll need a bunch of pipe tools - dies, etc. Standard
lengths from the box store should get you close enough to the new water
heater such that a flexible pipe, three feet or so, can complete the
connection.

I'm with you on saving money. I live in a duplex - converted to single
family - and hooked the two gas supplies together. Then I had the gas
company shut off service to one side. Saved $18.00/month.

does your home have a convenient vent for the new gas water heater
chimney? thats essential

This 50 yo house still has the chimney that was used for the original
oil furnace so I am thinking I can use that for the hot water heater.
The current gas furnace has the PVC pipe scheme so the old chimney has
been unused and capped off. If I position the water heater next to the
furnace I shouldn't need to add more than a minimal amount of gas
pipe.


You will need a chimney insert (liner) for the flue to meet code - and
for good reason. Put one in.

On Sun, 25 Dec 2011 16:20:18 -0800 (PST), Davej
wrote:

On Dec 25, 7:32Â*pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 12/25/2011 1:47 PM, Davej wrote:
On Dec 25, 3:36 pm, bob Â*wrote:
On Dec 25, 4:28 pm, Â*wrote:

Davej wrote:
Looks like my electric hot water heater has sprung a leak near the
bottom next to the threaded hole for the drain. If I drained the thing
and unscrewed the drain pipe I could probably reach in and daub
something on the leak, but I'm guessing that wouldn't last and isn't
worth the bother.

...So I want to replace this electric with a gas water heater. I'm
guessing that means going to the county and pulling a permit so that
an inspector can check my work? I have a gas furnace and I'm tired of
having a $20 minimum gas bill every month all Spring, Summer and Fall
for nothing.

You may not need a permit - it depends on how much your county wants to rip
off its residents. Plus, if you start the bureacratic ball rolling, they may
insist that the work be done by a licensed and blessed plumber. Best to call
them and ask. Anonymously.

I don't think you'll need a bunch of pipe tools - dies, etc. Standard
lengths from the box store should get you close enough to the new water
heater such that a flexible pipe, three feet or so, can complete the
connection.

I'm with you on saving money. I live in a duplex - converted to single
family - and hooked the two gas supplies together. Then I had the gas
company shut off service to one side. Saved $18.00/month.

does your home have a convenient vent for the new gas water heater
chimney? thats essential

This 50 yo house still has the chimney that was used for the original
oil furnace so I am thinking I can use that for the hot water heater.
The current gas furnace has the PVC pipe scheme so the old chimney has
been unused and capped off. If I position the water heater next to the
furnace I shouldn't need to add more than a minimal amount of gas
pipe.

if that old 'chimney' is brick or pipe bigger than 5" diameter, you'll
want to line the thing with a stainless or alumnimum liner to prevent
condensation and insure proper draft. Â*Just sticking a 3" line into an
old chimney is done all the time, but is FAR from good.


This is a 5" chimney pipe that goes right up through the center of the
house. Maybe running a 3" aluminum pipe inside it would be a good
idea? I am also wondering about the acceptable amount of offset in the
basement -- as I don't really want to position the water heater
directly under the chimney pipe, but would prefer to have it several
feet over.

Mine is 6 feet from the chimney. My daughter's is about 10 feet.
Neither one is a forced vent.

On 12/25/2011 7:18 PM, bob haller wrote:
On Dec 25, 7:53 pm, wrote:
On 12/25/2011 6:20 PM, Davej wrote:
...

This is a 5" chimney pipe that goes right up through the center of the
house. Maybe running a 3" aluminum pipe inside it would be a good
idea? I am also wondering about the acceptable amount of offset in the
basement -- as I don't really want to position the water heater
directly under the chimney pipe, but would prefer to have it several
feet over.

The water heater here vents into an old masonry chimney w/ a horizontal
run from the exit elbow into the chimney w/ no problems.

--

5 inch chimney is likely too big.........

draw will be poor because the water heaters exhaust wouldnt heat up
the chimney enough

It's not been an issue w/ an 8" square here in 60-some years.

--

On Dec 25, 3:35*pm, Joe wrote:
On Dec 25, 2:08*pm, Davej wrote:

Looks like my electric hot water heater has sprung a leak near the
bottom next to the threaded hole for the drain. If I drained the thing
and unscrewed the drain pipe I could probably reach in and daub
something on the leak, but I'm guessing that wouldn't last and isn't
worth the bother.

...So I want to replace this electric with a gas water heater. I'm
guessing that means going to the county and pulling a permit so that
an inspector can check my work? I have a gas furnace and I'm tired of
having a $20 minimum gas bill every month all Spring, Summer and Fall
for nothing.

This is a simple appliance replacement. In many jurisdictions that
does not require a permit. If you ask, don't go overboard with
details. It only confuses some bureaucrats.

It's not a simple replacement when converting from electric to
gas. It involves running a new gas line and new venting. Most
places it probably does need a permit. Here in NJ you would
definitely need one. You even need one to do a straight replacement.



Start now collecting the right tools and materials, black iron pipe,
pipe cutter, threading dies (Harbor Freight is decent, Ridgid if you
intend to do it for a living).

If it's a short, straightforward run from say the furnace line over to
the water heater, another option is to have HD cut and thread it
for you. They also have off the shelf nipples in std lengths. But
at some point the question of convenience comes in too, how
many trips back to HD you want to make, etc. So buying the
threading gear is definitely an option too.




Also pipe dope (Teflon type), clips and
anchors, street ells, tees, ells, *unions, nipples, caps and plugs.
Lay out a plan and figure out exactly what you will need, maybe add a
plugged tee for a future back yard barbecue. Box store pipe is OK, but
being Chinese it is not always perfectly round and will be harder to
start a thread than American made. A small mounted pipe vise is cheap
handy accessory, too.
The plastic covered SS corrugated gas pipe is under fire now for
problems, so avoid that until they get the situation resolved. *HTH

Joe

On Dec 25, 8:32*pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 12/25/2011 1:47 PM, Davej wrote:





On Dec 25, 3:36 pm, bob *wrote:
On Dec 25, 4:28 pm, *wrote:

Davej wrote:
Looks like my electric hot water heater has sprung a leak near the
bottom next to the threaded hole for the drain. If I drained the thing
and unscrewed the drain pipe I could probably reach in and daub
something on the leak, but I'm guessing that wouldn't last and isn't
worth the bother.

...So I want to replace this electric with a gas water heater. I'm
guessing that means going to the county and pulling a permit so that
an inspector can check my work? I have a gas furnace and I'm tired of
having a $20 minimum gas bill every month all Spring, Summer and Fall
for nothing.

You may not need a permit - it depends on how much your county wants to rip
off its residents. Plus, if you start the bureacratic ball rolling, they may
insist that the work be done by a licensed and blessed plumber. Best to call
them and ask. Anonymously.

I don't think you'll need a bunch of pipe tools - dies, etc. Standard
lengths from the box store should get you close enough to the new water
heater such that a flexible pipe, three feet or so, can complete the
connection.

I'm with you on saving money. I live in a duplex - converted to single
family - and hooked the two gas supplies together. Then I had the gas
company shut off service to one side. Saved $18.00/month.

does your home have a convenient vent for the new gas water heater
chimney? thats essential

This 50 yo house still has the chimney that was used for the original
oil furnace so I am thinking I can use that for the hot water heater.
The current gas furnace has the PVC pipe scheme so the old chimney has
been unused and capped off. If I position the water heater next to the
furnace I shouldn't need to add more than a minimal amount of gas
pipe.

if that old 'chimney' is brick or pipe bigger than 5" diameter, you'll
want to line the thing with a stainless or alumnimum liner to prevent
condensation and insure proper draft. *Just sticking a 3" line into an
old chimney is done all the time, but is FAR from good.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Agree. The situation above usually comes up when an old
furnace and water heater share the same chimney. The
furnace is replaced with a direct vent one, leaving an orphaned
water heater. The old chimney was sized for both. In the
winter the furnace provided heat to keep the chimney hot
enough so water vapor would not condense inside. With
just the water heater, the large chimeny will now allow
water to condense. Being acidic, over time it will destroy
the chimney. Solution is the chimney liner. You can
get away without one if the entire chimney is surrounded
by heated home space, but that is usually not the case.

On Dec 26, 12:28*am, dpb wrote:
On 12/25/2011 7:18 PM, bob haller wrote:





On Dec 25, 7:53 pm, *wrote:
On 12/25/2011 6:20 PM, Davej wrote:
...

This is a 5" chimney pipe that goes right up through the center of the
house. Maybe running a 3" aluminum pipe inside it would be a good
idea? I am also wondering about the acceptable amount of offset in the
basement -- as I don't really want to position the water heater
directly under the chimney pipe, but would prefer to have it several
feet over.

The water heater here vents into an old masonry chimney w/ a horizontal
run from the exit elbow into the chimney w/ no problems.

--

5 inch chimney is likely too big.........

draw will be poor because the water heaters exhaust wouldnt heat up
the chimney enough

It's not been an issue w/ an 8" square here in 60-some years.

--- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


5" flue should be OK. I just ran a 4" liner for a water heater. That
was because the flue was sized for a furnace and way oversize,
probably abot 8 x 8".
If it were 5" round I probably would have left it alone. Also depends
on
the climate. If it's FL I would not worry about condensation.
If it's MN, then it's another thing.

Also, if poor draft were an issue, how do all the water heaters
out there that are on larger shared chimneys with furnaces
work in summer? Mine was on that big old chimney and
worked fine for 27 years.

On Dec 25, 2:47*pm, Davej wrote:
On Dec 25, 3:36*pm, bob haller wrote:





On Dec 25, 4:28*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:

Davej wrote:
Looks like my electric hot water heater has sprung a leak near the
bottom next to the threaded hole for the drain. If I drained the thing
and unscrewed the drain pipe I could probably reach in and daub
something on the leak, but I'm guessing that wouldn't last and isn't
worth the bother.

...So I want to replace this electric with a gas water heater. I'm
guessing that means going to the county and pulling a permit so that
an inspector can check my work? I have a gas furnace and I'm tired of
having a $20 minimum gas bill every month all Spring, Summer and Fall
for nothing.

You may not need a permit - it depends on how much your county wants to rip
off its residents. Plus, if you start the bureacratic ball rolling, they may
insist that the work be done by a licensed and blessed plumber. Best to call
them and ask. Anonymously.

I don't think you'll need a bunch of pipe tools - dies, etc. Standard
lengths from the box store should get you close enough to the new water
heater such that a flexible pipe, three feet or so, can complete the
connection.

I'm with you on saving money. I live in a duplex - converted to single
family - and hooked the two gas supplies together. Then I had the gas
company shut off service to one side. Saved $18.00/month.

does your home have a convenient vent for the new gas water heater
chimney? thats essential

This 50 yo house still has the chimney that was used for the original
oil furnace so I am thinking I can use that for the hot water heater.
The current gas furnace has the PVC pipe scheme so the old chimney has
been unused and capped off. If I position the water heater next to the
furnace I shouldn't need to add more than a minimal amount of gas
pipe.

Watch out code changes, chimney's may have to be lined before using
for anything!

On Dec 25, 2:08*pm, Davej wrote:
Looks like my electric hot water heater has sprung a leak near the
bottom next to the threaded hole for the drain. If I drained the thing
and unscrewed the drain pipe I could probably reach in and daub
something on the leak, but I'm guessing that wouldn't last and isn't
worth the bother.

...So I want to replace this electric with a gas water heater. I'm
guessing that means going to the county and pulling a permit so that
an inspector can check my work? I have a gas furnace and I'm tired of
having a $20 minimum gas bill every month all Spring, Summer and Fall
for nothing.

Going the gas route will save you quite a bit of operational cost if
you use alot of hot water. . If your old electric HWH was at least
10 years, it is time to get rid of it in any case before it REALLY
springs a leak . If you want to go the cheap and quick route, you
could go with another replacement electric HWH but put a 24 hour Time
Clock on it so you allow the HWH to operate ONLY during times of your
hot water needs, and off all other times. Youll notice a good saving
going this route too.

On Dec 26, 10:31*am, "
wrote:
On Dec 25, 2:08*pm, Davej wrote:

Looks like my electric hot water heater has sprung a leak near the
bottom next to the threaded hole for the drain. If I drained the thing
and unscrewed the drain pipe I could probably reach in and daub
something on the leak, but I'm guessing that wouldn't last and isn't
worth the bother.

...So I want to replace this electric with a gas water heater. I'm
guessing that means going to the county and pulling a permit so that
an inspector can check my work? I have a gas furnace and I'm tired of
having a $20 minimum gas bill every month all Spring, Summer and Fall
for nothing.

Going the gas route will save you quite a bit of operational cost if
you use alot of hot water. * . If your old electric HWH was at least
10 years, it is time to get rid of it in any case before it REALLY
springs a leak *. * If you want to go the cheap *and quick route, you
could go with another replacement electric HWH *but put a 24 hour Time
Clock on it so you allow the HWH to operate ONLY during times of your
hot water needs, and off all other times. * Youll notice a good saving
going this route too.

Where's the evidence that a timer on a hot water heater saves enough
in energy to make it worth it? How water tanks lose heat very slowly.
Electric ones are the most well insulated because there is no flue
running up the middle. If it made much difference, don't you think
this would be std in electric water heaters by now?

If your utility has lower rates at night, then I've seen water heaters
put on timers or seperate meters to take advantage of that and
it can save $. It heats the water at night, when rates are lower.
But a timer to turn off the water heater over night
isn't going to save enough to make it worth the trouble.

On Dec 26, 9:43*am, "
wrote:
On Dec 26, 10:31*am, "
wrote:





On Dec 25, 2:08*pm, Davej wrote:

Looks like my electric hot water heater has sprung a leak near the
bottom next to the threaded hole for the drain. If I drained the thing
and unscrewed the drain pipe I could probably reach in and daub
something on the leak, but I'm guessing that wouldn't last and isn't
worth the bother.

...So I want to replace this electric with a gas water heater. I'm
guessing that means going to the county and pulling a permit so that
an inspector can check my work? I have a gas furnace and I'm tired of
having a $20 minimum gas bill every month all Spring, Summer and Fall
for nothing.

Going the gas route will save you quite a bit of operational cost if
you use alot of hot water. * . If your old electric HWH was at least
10 years, it is time to get rid of it in any case before it REALLY
springs a leak *. * If you want to go the cheap *and quick route, you
could go with another replacement electric HWH *but put a 24 hour Time
Clock on it so you allow the HWH to operate ONLY during times of your
hot water needs, and off all other times. * Youll notice a good saving
going this route too.

Where's the evidence that a timer on a hot water heater saves enough
in energy to make it worth it? *How water tanks lose heat very slowly.
Electric ones are the most well insulated because there is no flue
running up the middle. *If it made much difference, don't you think
this would be std in electric water heaters by now?

If your utility has lower rates at night, then I've seen water heaters
put on timers or seperate meters to take advantage of that and
it can save $. *It heats the water at night, when rates are lower.
But a timer to turn off the water heater over night
isn't going to save enough to make it worth the trouble.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

We had a hot water heater on a separate outside timer/meter back in NJ
in the early 1960's. It saved money because we got a cheaper electric
rate for the hot water heater. Only problem was frequent power
failures screwed up the clock built into the meter. We frequently
were able to get hot water at peak periods because the timer was so
far off schedule. The new smart meters presumably have built-in
clocks that are synchronized and won't suffer from the same problem.

On Mon, 26 Dec 2011 05:36:46 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Dec 25, 3:35Â*pm, Joe wrote:
On Dec 25, 2:08Â*pm, Davej wrote:

Looks like my electric hot water heater has sprung a leak near the
bottom next to the threaded hole for the drain. If I drained the thing
and unscrewed the drain pipe I could probably reach in and daub
something on the leak, but I'm guessing that wouldn't last and isn't
worth the bother.

...So I want to replace this electric with a gas water heater. I'm
guessing that means going to the county and pulling a permit so that
an inspector can check my work? I have a gas furnace and I'm tired of
having a $20 minimum gas bill every month all Spring, Summer and Fall
for nothing.

This is a simple appliance replacement. In many jurisdictions that
does not require a permit. If you ask, don't go overboard with
details. It only confuses some bureaucrats.

It's not a simple replacement when converting from electric to
gas. It involves running a new gas line and new venting. Most
places it probably does need a permit. Here in NJ you would
definitely need one. You even need one to do a straight replacement.



Start now collecting the right tools and materials, black iron pipe,
pipe cutter, threading dies (Harbor Freight is decent, Ridgid if you
intend to do it for a living).

If it's a short, straightforward run from say the furnace line over to
the water heater, another option is to have HD cut and thread it
for you. They also have off the shelf nipples in std lengths. But
at some point the question of convenience comes in too, how
many trips back to HD you want to make, etc. So buying the
threading gear is definitely an option too.


Measure it up, buy to fit, and move the heater a few inches one way or
other to make it fit RIGHT. You are goung to be changing the plumbing
anyway - the gas and the electric will NOT be identical. Or make the
down-run from the ceiling mounted black iron gas pipe with soft copper
tubing

see:
http://www.copper.org/applications/f...ial_Copper.pdf.

It is allowed since 2000 in the UPC


Also pipe dope (Teflon type), clips and
anchors, street ells, tees, ells, Â*unions, nipples, caps and plugs.
Lay out a plan and figure out exactly what you will need, maybe add a
plugged tee for a future back yard barbecue. Box store pipe is OK, but
being Chinese it is not always perfectly round and will be harder to
start a thread than American made. A small mounted pipe vise is cheap
handy accessory, too.
The plastic covered SS corrugated gas pipe is under fire now for
problems, so avoid that until they get the situation resolved. Â*HTH

Joe

On Dec 26, 1:38*pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 12/26/2011 7:15 AM, Robert Macy wrote:





On Dec 25, 2:47 pm, *wrote:
On Dec 25, 3:36 pm, bob *wrote:

On Dec 25, 4:28 pm, *wrote:

Davej wrote:
Looks like my electric hot water heater has sprung a leak near the
bottom next to the threaded hole for the drain. If I drained the thing
and unscrewed the drain pipe I could probably reach in and daub
something on the leak, but I'm guessing that wouldn't last and isn't
worth the bother.

...So I want to replace this electric with a gas water heater. I'm
guessing that means going to the county and pulling a permit so that
an inspector can check my work? I have a gas furnace and I'm tired of
having a $20 minimum gas bill every month all Spring, Summer and Fall
for nothing.

You may not need a permit - it depends on how much your county wants to rip
off its residents. Plus, if you start the bureacratic ball rolling, they may
insist that the work be done by a licensed and blessed plumber. Best to call
them and ask. Anonymously.

I don't think you'll need a bunch of pipe tools - dies, etc. Standard
lengths from the box store should get you close enough to the new water
heater such that a flexible pipe, three feet or so, can complete the
connection.

I'm with you on saving money. I live in a duplex - converted to single
family - and hooked the two gas supplies together. Then I had the gas
company shut off service to one side. Saved $18.00/month.

does your home have a convenient vent for the new gas water heater
chimney? thats essential

This 50 yo house still has the chimney that was used for the original
oil furnace so I am thinking I can use that for the hot water heater.
The current gas furnace has the PVC pipe scheme so the old chimney has
been unused and capped off. If I position the water heater next to the
furnace I shouldn't need to add more than a minimal amount of gas
pipe.

Watch out code changes, chimney's may have to be lined before using
for anything!

**** a bunch of code! *They should be lined regardless.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

might bwe better off to go with a new direct vent gas water
heater.....

much better efficency, much higher first hour and recovery rate

theres just a small pvc exhaust line

On 12/26/2011 7:15 AM, Robert Macy wrote:
On Dec 25, 2:47 pm, wrote:
On Dec 25, 3:36 pm, bob wrote:





On Dec 25, 4:28 pm, wrote:

Davej wrote:
Looks like my electric hot water heater has sprung a leak near the
bottom next to the threaded hole for the drain. If I drained the thing
and unscrewed the drain pipe I could probably reach in and daub
something on the leak, but I'm guessing that wouldn't last and isn't
worth the bother.

...So I want to replace this electric with a gas water heater. I'm
guessing that means going to the county and pulling a permit so that
an inspector can check my work? I have a gas furnace and I'm tired of
having a $20 minimum gas bill every month all Spring, Summer and Fall
for nothing.

You may not need a permit - it depends on how much your county wants to rip
off its residents. Plus, if you start the bureacratic ball rolling, they may
insist that the work be done by a licensed and blessed plumber. Best to call
them and ask. Anonymously.

I don't think you'll need a bunch of pipe tools - dies, etc. Standard
lengths from the box store should get you close enough to the new water
heater such that a flexible pipe, three feet or so, can complete the
connection.

I'm with you on saving money. I live in a duplex - converted to single
family - and hooked the two gas supplies together. Then I had the gas
company shut off service to one side. Saved $18.00/month.

does your home have a convenient vent for the new gas water heater
chimney? thats essential

This 50 yo house still has the chimney that was used for the original
oil furnace so I am thinking I can use that for the hot water heater.
The current gas furnace has the PVC pipe scheme so the old chimney has
been unused and capped off. If I position the water heater next to the
furnace I shouldn't need to add more than a minimal amount of gas
pipe.

Watch out code changes, chimney's may have to be lined before using
for anything!

**** a bunch of code! They should be lined regardless.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Dec 26, 12:02*am, wrote:
On Sun, 25 Dec 2011 13:47:14 -0800 (PST), Davej
wrote:





On Dec 25, 3:36*pm, bob haller wrote:
On Dec 25, 4:28*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:

Davej wrote:
Looks like my electric hot water heater has sprung a leak near the
bottom next to the threaded hole for the drain. If I drained the thing
and unscrewed the drain pipe I could probably reach in and daub
something on the leak, but I'm guessing that wouldn't last and isn't
worth the bother.

...So I want to replace this electric with a gas water heater. I'm
guessing that means going to the county and pulling a permit so that
an inspector can check my work? I have a gas furnace and I'm tired of
having a $20 minimum gas bill every month all Spring, Summer and Fall
for nothing.

You may not need a permit - it depends on how much your county wants to rip
off its residents. Plus, if you start the bureacratic ball rolling, they may
insist that the work be done by a licensed and blessed plumber. Best to call
them and ask. Anonymously.

I don't think you'll need a bunch of pipe tools - dies, etc. Standard
lengths from the box store should get you close enough to the new water
heater such that a flexible pipe, three feet or so, can complete the
connection.

I'm with you on saving money. I live in a duplex - converted to single
family - and hooked the two gas supplies together. Then I had the gas
company shut off service to one side. Saved $18.00/month.

does your home have a convenient vent for the new gas water heater
chimney? thats essential

This 50 yo house still has the chimney that was used for the original
oil furnace so I am thinking I can use that for the hot water heater.
The current gas furnace has the PVC pipe scheme so the old chimney has
been unused and capped off. If I position the water heater next to the
furnace I shouldn't need to add more than a minimal amount of gas
pipe.

You will need a chimney insert (liner) for the flue to meet code - and
for good reason. Put one in.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

How do you know what the specific code is where he lives?
I would think a 5" flue is perfectly fine in many municipalities.

On Dec 26, 10:56*am, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Dec 26, 9:43*am, "
wrote:





On Dec 26, 10:31*am, "
wrote:

On Dec 25, 2:08*pm, Davej wrote:

Looks like my electric hot water heater has sprung a leak near the
bottom next to the threaded hole for the drain. If I drained the thing
and unscrewed the drain pipe I could probably reach in and daub
something on the leak, but I'm guessing that wouldn't last and isn't
worth the bother.

...So I want to replace this electric with a gas water heater. I'm
guessing that means going to the county and pulling a permit so that
an inspector can check my work? I have a gas furnace and I'm tired of
having a $20 minimum gas bill every month all Spring, Summer and Fall
for nothing.

Going the gas route will save you quite a bit of operational cost if
you use alot of hot water. * . If your old electric HWH was at least
10 years, it is time to get rid of it in any case before it REALLY
springs a leak *. * If you want to go the cheap *and quick route, you
could go with another replacement electric HWH *but put a 24 hour Time
Clock on it so you allow the HWH to operate ONLY during times of your
hot water needs, and off all other times. * Youll notice a good saving
going this route too.

Where's the evidence that a timer on a hot water heater saves enough
in energy to make it worth it? *How water tanks lose heat very slowly..
Electric ones are the most well insulated because there is no flue
running up the middle. *If it made much difference, don't you think
this would be std in electric water heaters by now?

If your utility has lower rates at night, then I've seen water heaters
put on timers or seperate meters to take advantage of that and
it can save $. *It heats the water at night, when rates are lower.
But a timer to turn off the water heater over night
isn't going to save enough to make it worth the trouble.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

We had a hot water heater on a separate outside timer/meter back in NJ
in the early 1960's. *It saved money because we got a cheaper electric
rate for the hot water heater.

I live in NJ and remember those. Not sure if they still
do it. But it was interesting that they had it way
back then. Kind of an early version of the smart meters
where they can have various rates now for different
time perisods.




*Only problem was frequent power
failures screwed up the clock built into the meter. *We frequently
were able to get hot water at peak periods because the timer was so
far off schedule. *The new smart meters presumably have built-in
clocks that are synchronized and won't suffer from the same problem.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You will need a chimney insert (liner) for the flue to meet code - and
for good reason. Put one in.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

How do you know what the specific code is where he lives?
I would think a 5" flue is perfectly fine in many municipalities


a old unused chimney should be camera inspected by pros before reuse

On Mon, 26 Dec 2011 17:30:00 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:






You will need a chimney insert (liner) for the flue to meet code - and
for good reason. Put one in.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

How do you know what the specific code is where he lives?
I would think a 5" flue is perfectly fine in many municipalities.

I'd start here
http://www.checkthishouse.com/49/wat...logGlue_Plugin

http://www.inspectapedia.com/chimney..._Flue_Size.htm
The 1992 GAMA vent sizing tables for single-wall metal vent connectors
attached to a tile lined masonry chimney uses Table 8. The result of
those calculation using a 38,000 BTU water heater with a 3" draft hood
and a 37,500 BTU boiler with a 4" draft hood connected to a 20' high
chimney is to use a common flue with an area of 28 square inches or a
6" flue vs a 5" flue in the previous examples.

These tables also indicate that a 3" vent is not capable of venting
the 38,000 BTU water heater. A 4" would be required. Also the flow
area of the chimney must not be more that 7 times the area of the
smallest vent area. Therefore, 7 x 7.065 = 49.455 vs 28, a 6 inch flue
pipe is ok. The maximum size flue that could be used is 8 inch at
50.3.

On Dec 26, 9:20*pm, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

I'd start herehttp://www.checkthishouse.com/49/water-heater-vent-pipe.html?utm_sour...

http://www.inspectapedia.com/chimney..._Flue_Size.htm
The 1992 GAMA vent sizing tables for single-wall metal vent connectors
attached to a tile lined masonry chimney uses Table 8. The result of
those calculation using a 38,000 BTU water heater with a 3" draft hood
and a 37,500 BTU boiler with a 4" draft hood connected to a 20' high
chimney is to use a common flue with an area of 28 square inches or a
6" flue vs a 5" flue in the previous examples.

These tables also indicate that a 3" vent is not capable of venting
the 38,000 BTU water heater. A 4" would be required. Also the flow
area of the chimney must not be more that 7 times the area of the
smallest vent area. Therefore, 7 x 7.065 = 49.455 vs 28, a 6 inch flue
pipe is ok. The maximum size flue that could be used is 8 inch at
50.3.

Wow, so they say the 5" size is fine. I just need to watch for
condensation and if I see any consider a 4" aluminum liner. Thanks.

On Dec 26, 8:55*pm, bob haller wrote:


a old unused chimney should be camera inspected by pros before reuse


Well, it isn't as if I don't have a CO detector in the house. I'll run
a brush up and down it a few times and then see what it looks like.
Thanks.

On Dec 25, 3:35*pm, Joe wrote:
On Dec 25, 2:08*pm, Davej wrote:

Looks like my electric hot water heater has sprung a leak near the
bottom next to the threaded hole for the drain. If I drained the thing
and unscrewed the drain pipe I could probably reach in and daub
something on the leak, but I'm guessing that wouldn't last and isn't
worth the bother.

...So I want to replace this electric with a gas water heater. I'm
guessing that means going to the county and pulling a permit so that
an inspector can check my work? I have a gas furnace and I'm tired of
having a $20 minimum gas bill every month all Spring, Summer and Fall
for nothing.

This is a simple appliance replacement. In many jurisdictions that
does not require a permit. If you ask, don't go overboard with
details. It only confuses some bureaucrats.
Start now collecting the right tools and materials, black iron pipe,
pipe cutter, threading dies (Harbor Freight is decent, Ridgid if you
intend to do it for a living). Also pipe dope (Teflon type), clips and
anchors, street ells, tees, ells, *unions, nipples, caps and plugs.
Lay out a plan and figure out exactly what you will need, maybe add a
plugged tee for a future back yard barbecue. Box store pipe is OK, but
being Chinese it is not always perfectly round and will be harder to
start a thread than American made. A small mounted pipe vise is cheap
handy accessory, too.
The plastic covered SS corrugated gas pipe is under fire now for
problems, so avoid that until they get the situation resolved. *HTH

Joe

Check with your AHJ. I know that around here, all gas work must be
done by a licensed contractor. Not that I'd really do it myself
anyway. It's not *hard,* mind you, but the consequences of getting it
wrong are really, really bad.

nate

On Dec 27, 11:33*am, Davej wrote:
On Dec 26, 9:20*pm, Ed Pawlowski wrote:







I'd start herehttp://www.checkthishouse.com/49/water-heater-vent-pipe.html?utm_sour...

http://www.inspectapedia.com/chimney..._Flue_Size.htm
The 1992 GAMA vent sizing tables for single-wall metal vent connectors
attached to a tile lined masonry chimney uses Table 8. The result of
those calculation using a 38,000 BTU water heater with a 3" draft hood
and a 37,500 BTU boiler with a 4" draft hood connected to a 20' high
chimney is to use a common flue with an area of 28 square inches or a
6" flue vs a 5" flue in the previous examples.

These tables also indicate that a 3" vent is not capable of venting
the 38,000 BTU water heater. A 4" would be required. Also the flow
area of the chimney must not be more that 7 times the area of the
smallest vent area. Therefore, 7 x 7.065 = 49.455 vs 28, a 6 inch flue
pipe is ok. The maximum size flue that could be used is 8 inch at
50.3.

Wow, so they say the 5" size is fine. I just need to watch for
condensation and if I see any consider a 4" aluminum liner. Thanks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Interesting question about the condensation. I agree
you should be fine with a 5" flue as long as it's sound
and condensation should not be an issue. But how are
you going to watch for it? It would seem to me the
condensation would just run down inside the chimney
and you'd never see it. Unless you sent an inspection
camera down the chimney on a cold winter day. Or
had some inspection port you could access, etc.

That's one of the problems with condensation in a
chimney. You don't know it's occuring and no easy way
to see the damage that it causes.

On Tue, 27 Dec 2011 12:22:44 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Dec 27, 11:33Â*am, Davej wrote:
On Dec 26, 9:20Â*pm, Ed Pawlowski wrote:







I'd start herehttp://www.checkthishouse.com/49/water-heater-vent-pipe.html?utm_sour...

http://www.inspectapedia.com/chimney..._Flue_Size.htm
The 1992 GAMA vent sizing tables for single-wall metal vent connectors
attached to a tile lined masonry chimney uses Table 8. The result of
those calculation using a 38,000 BTU water heater with a 3" draft hood
and a 37,500 BTU boiler with a 4" draft hood connected to a 20' high
chimney is to use a common flue with an area of 28 square inches or a
6" flue vs a 5" flue in the previous examples.

These tables also indicate that a 3" vent is not capable of venting
the 38,000 BTU water heater. A 4" would be required. Also the flow
area of the chimney must not be more that 7 times the area of the
smallest vent area. Therefore, 7 x 7.065 = 49.455 vs 28, a 6 inch flue
pipe is ok. The maximum size flue that could be used is 8 inch at
50.3.

Wow, so they say the 5" size is fine. I just need to watch for
condensation and if I see any consider a 4" aluminum liner. Thanks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Interesting question about the condensation. I agree
you should be fine with a 5" flue as long as it's sound
and condensation should not be an issue. But how are
you going to watch for it? It would seem to me the
condensation would just run down inside the chimney
and you'd never see it. Unless you sent an inspection
camera down the chimney on a cold winter day. Or
had some inspection port you could access, etc.

That's one of the problems with condensation in a
chimney. You don't know it's occuring and no easy way
to see the damage that it causes.
Pop the cleanout open and look for a puddle?

On Dec 27, 3:39*pm, wrote:
On Tue, 27 Dec 2011 12:22:44 -0800 (PST), "





wrote:
On Dec 27, 11:33*am, Davej wrote:
On Dec 26, 9:20*pm, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

I'd start herehttp://www.checkthishouse.com/49/water-heater-vent-pipe.html?utm_sour...

http://www.inspectapedia.com/chimney..._Flue_Size.htm
The 1992 GAMA vent sizing tables for single-wall metal vent connectors
attached to a tile lined masonry chimney uses Table 8. The result of
those calculation using a 38,000 BTU water heater with a 3" draft hood
and a 37,500 BTU boiler with a 4" draft hood connected to a 20' high
chimney is to use a common flue with an area of 28 square inches or a
6" flue vs a 5" flue in the previous examples.

These tables also indicate that a 3" vent is not capable of venting
the 38,000 BTU water heater. A 4" would be required. Also the flow
area of the chimney must not be more that 7 times the area of the
smallest vent area. Therefore, 7 x 7.065 = 49.455 vs 28, a 6 inch flue
pipe is ok. The maximum size flue that could be used is 8 inch at
50.3.

Wow, so they say the 5" size is fine. I just need to watch for
condensation and if I see any consider a 4" aluminum liner. Thanks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Interesting question about the condensation. *I agree
you should be fine with a 5" flue as long as it's sound
and condensation should not be an issue. * But how are
you going to watch for it? *It would seem to me the
condensation would just run down inside the chimney
and you'd never see it. *Unless you sent an inspection
camera down the chimney on a cold winter day. *Or
had some inspection port you could access, etc.

That's one of the problems with condensation in a
chimney. *You don't know it's occuring and no easy way
to see the damage that it causes.

*Pop the cleanout open and look for a puddle?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

What cleanout open? My chimney doesn't have any
cleanout opening.

On Wed, 28 Dec 2011 05:50:46 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Dec 27, 3:39Â*pm, wrote:
On Tue, 27 Dec 2011 12:22:44 -0800 (PST), "





wrote:
On Dec 27, 11:33Â*am, Davej wrote:
On Dec 26, 9:20Â*pm, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

I'd start herehttp://www.checkthishouse.com/49/water-heater-vent-pipe.html?utm_sour...

http://www.inspectapedia.com/chimney..._Flue_Size.htm
The 1992 GAMA vent sizing tables for single-wall metal vent connectors
attached to a tile lined masonry chimney uses Table 8. The result of
those calculation using a 38,000 BTU water heater with a 3" draft hood
and a 37,500 BTU boiler with a 4" draft hood connected to a 20' high
chimney is to use a common flue with an area of 28 square inches or a
6" flue vs a 5" flue in the previous examples.

These tables also indicate that a 3" vent is not capable of venting
the 38,000 BTU water heater. A 4" would be required. Also the flow
area of the chimney must not be more that 7 times the area of the
smallest vent area. Therefore, 7 x 7.065 = 49.455 vs 28, a 6 inch flue
pipe is ok. The maximum size flue that could be used is 8 inch at
50.3.

Wow, so they say the 5" size is fine. I just need to watch for
condensation and if I see any consider a 4" aluminum liner. Thanks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Interesting question about the condensation. Â*I agree
you should be fine with a 5" flue as long as it's sound
and condensation should not be an issue. Â* But how are
you going to watch for it? Â*It would seem to me the
condensation would just run down inside the chimney
and you'd never see it. Â*Unless you sent an inspection
camera down the chimney on a cold winter day. Â*Or
had some inspection port you could access, etc.

That's one of the problems with condensation in a
chimney. Â*You don't know it's occuring and no easy way
to see the damage that it causes.

Â*Pop the cleanout open and look for a puddle?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

What cleanout open? My chimney doesn't have any
cleanout opening.
Every chimney I've ever been associated with had one. Both chimneys
on the old house I grew up in, the chimney in my first house, the one
in my wife's first house, and the one in the house I now own. And
every house I've ever worked on for my friends.. Mabee it's a
"canadian thing". About 4X6 inch lift-off door at the bottom of the
flue - most often to the inside of the house - but I've seen them on
the outside of a chimey as well.