Anyone with experience in typical plumbing codes have
advice on this? I need to route the condensate drain on
a high efficiency furnace/AC to an appropriate drain.

It appears that going outside is not a good idea, because
it's subject to freezing here and also I'm not keen on
putting extra water near the foundation in the most logical
area. I don't have sump pump, so can't drain it to a
sump basin.

Here it's permitted and apparently a preferred
method to route it into the sewer system. The simplest
way would be to route it to a laundry sink drain. Problem
is I don't have one in the basement and the first floor
one is on the other side of the basement and running
anything up there to it isn't going to be easy either.

So, what I came up with is this. I have a shower on
the first floor that is within range. The trap is accessible
with maybe 7 inches of DWV pipe between it and the shower
drain. I am looking to connect into there, above the
trap. I've seen
online where HVAC guys have tapped into all kinds of
sewer or sewer vent lines using some kind of barbed
fitting where they just drill a hole and screw it in.
But I know some or all of them don;t meet code.
But I'm wondering if you do it in the right place, ie it's
protected by a trap, is that kind of connection code
compliant? And what kind of fitting would one use?
I don't recall seeing any barbed fitting other than
standard pipe threads. Would think you'd need
some different thread to screw into a hole drilled
into DWV pipe.

Or alternatively, let's say I cut the drain pipe, install
a wye fitting, reduce it down to a barbed fitting and
then connect the hose to that, is that code compliant?
I would think it would be, but not sure.

Any thoughts?

On 12/24/2011 7:41 AM, wrote:
Anyone with experience in typical plumbing codes have
advice on this? I need to route the condensate drain on
a high efficiency furnace/AC to an appropriate drain.

It appears that going outside is not a good idea, because
it's subject to freezing here and also I'm not keen on
putting extra water near the foundation in the most logical
area. I don't have sump pump, so can't drain it to a
sump basin.

Here it's permitted and apparently a preferred
method to route it into the sewer system. The simplest
way would be to route it to a laundry sink drain. Problem
is I don't have one in the basement and the first floor
one is on the other side of the basement and running
anything up there to it isn't going to be easy either.

So, what I came up with is this. I have a shower on
the first floor that is within range. The trap is accessible
with maybe 7 inches of DWV pipe between it and the shower
drain. I am looking to connect into there, above the
trap. I've seen
online where HVAC guys have tapped into all kinds of
sewer or sewer vent lines using some kind of barbed
fitting where they just drill a hole and screw it in.
But I know some or all of them don;t meet code.
But I'm wondering if you do it in the right place, ie it's
protected by a trap, is that kind of connection code
compliant? And what kind of fitting would one use?
I don't recall seeing any barbed fitting other than
standard pipe threads. Would think you'd need
some different thread to screw into a hole drilled
into DWV pipe.

Or alternatively, let's say I cut the drain pipe, install
a wye fitting, reduce it down to a barbed fitting and
then connect the hose to that, is that code compliant?
I would think it would be, but not sure.

Any thoughts?
Be sure to put a "P" trap in the condensate drain line, what ever you do
with the water.

Paul

On 12/24/2011 10:41 AM, wrote:
Anyone with experience in typical plumbing codes have
advice on this? I need to route the condensate drain on
a high efficiency furnace/AC to an appropriate drain.

It appears that going outside is not a good idea, because
it's subject to freezing here and also I'm not keen on
putting extra water near the foundation in the most logical
area. I don't have sump pump, so can't drain it to a
sump basin.

Here it's permitted and apparently a preferred
method to route it into the sewer system. The simplest
way would be to route it to a laundry sink drain. Problem
is I don't have one in the basement and the first floor
one is on the other side of the basement and running
anything up there to it isn't going to be easy either.

So, what I came up with is this. I have a shower on
the first floor that is within range. The trap is accessible
with maybe 7 inches of DWV pipe between it and the shower
drain. I am looking to connect into there, above the
trap. I've seen
online where HVAC guys have tapped into all kinds of
sewer or sewer vent lines using some kind of barbed
fitting where they just drill a hole and screw it in.
But I know some or all of them don;t meet code.
But I'm wondering if you do it in the right place, ie it's
protected by a trap, is that kind of connection code
compliant? And what kind of fitting would one use?
I don't recall seeing any barbed fitting other than
standard pipe threads. Would think you'd need
some different thread to screw into a hole drilled
into DWV pipe.

Or alternatively, let's say I cut the drain pipe, install
a wye fitting, reduce it down to a barbed fitting and
then connect the hose to that, is that code compliant?
I would think it would be, but not sure.

Any thoughts?

Mine goes into the French drain where the system is located.
There is not that much water and drain is only wet for first 5 feet or
so. I have no real water problem and no sump pump.

On Dec 24, 10:41*am, "
wrote:
Anyone with experience in typical plumbing codes have
advice on this? I need to route the condensate drain on
a high efficiency furnace/AC to an appropriate drain.

It appears that going outside is not a good idea, because
it's subject to freezing here and also I'm not keen on
putting extra water near the foundation in the most logical
area. *I don't have sump pump, so can't drain it to a
sump basin.

Here it's permitted and apparently a preferred
method to route it into the sewer system. *The simplest
way would be to route it to a laundry sink drain. *Problem
is I don't have one in the basement and the first floor
one is on the other side of the basement and running
anything up there to it isn't going to be easy either.

So, what I came up with is this. *I have a shower on
the first floor that is within range. *The trap is accessible
with maybe 7 inches of DWV pipe between it and the shower
drain. *I am looking to connect into there, above the
trap. *I've seen
online where HVAC guys have tapped into all kinds of
sewer or sewer vent lines using some kind of barbed
fitting where they just drill a hole and screw it in.
But I know some or all of them don;t meet code.
But I'm wondering if you do it in the right place, ie it's
protected by a trap, is that kind of connection code
compliant? * And what kind of fitting would one use?
I don't recall seeing any barbed fitting other than
standard pipe threads. *Would think you'd need
some different thread to screw into a hole drilled
into DWV pipe.

Or alternatively, let's say I cut the drain pipe, install
a wye fitting, reduce it down to a barbed fitting and
then connect the hose to that, is that code compliant?
I would think it would be, but not sure.

Any thoughts?

Tap into a vent is the best way to avoid problems. You could get
backup if you tap into the sewer. Not a good thing to have flowing
back into your HVAC. Also install a trap in the line. The traps are
often made of PVC pipe glued up to form a "U". I prefer to use parts I
can take apart for when it needs to be cleaned out.

Jimmie

On Dec 24, 9:41*am, "
wrote:

snip


Any thoughts?

Easiest way is start with saddle tee to a handy vent line. NIBCO,
others have them, Google a search for online catalogs to get the right
part number you want and go to a real plumbing distributor. Glue it
on, drill the hole, run the line with a homemade trap using a return
(180 degree) bend and you should be good to go in an hour.

Joe

On Dec 24, 9:41*am, "
wrote:
Anyone with experience in typical plumbing codes have
advice on this? I need to route the condensate drain on
a high efficiency furnace/AC to an appropriate drain.

It appears that going outside is not a good idea, because
it's subject to freezing here and also I'm not keen on
putting extra water near the foundation in the most logical
area. *I don't have sump pump, so can't drain it to a
sump basin.

Here it's permitted and apparently a preferred
method to route it into the sewer system. *The simplest
way would be to route it to a laundry sink drain. *Problem
is I don't have one in the basement and the first floor
one is on the other side of the basement and running
anything up there to it isn't going to be easy either.

So, what I came up with is this. *I have a shower on
the first floor that is within range. *The trap is accessible
with maybe 7 inches of DWV pipe between it and the shower
drain. *I am looking to connect into there, above the
trap. *I've seen
online where HVAC guys have tapped into all kinds of
sewer or sewer vent lines using some kind of barbed
fitting where they just drill a hole and screw it in.
But I know some or all of them don;t meet code.
But I'm wondering if you do it in the right place, ie it's
protected by a trap, is that kind of connection code
compliant? * And what kind of fitting would one use?
I don't recall seeing any barbed fitting other than
standard pipe threads. *Would think you'd need
some different thread to screw into a hole drilled
into DWV pipe.

Or alternatively, let's say I cut the drain pipe, install
a wye fitting, reduce it down to a barbed fitting and
then connect the hose to that, is that code compliant?
I would think it would be, but not sure.

Any thoughts?

I tapped into the sewer, then I had a flood backup, it flooded and
ruined my furnace. Plan ahead.

On Dec 24, 6:00*pm, Joe wrote:
On Dec 24, 9:41*am, "
wrote:

snip
Any thoughts?

Easiest way is start with saddle tee to a handy vent line. NIBCO,
others have them, Google a search for online catalogs to get the right
part number you want and go to a real plumbing distributor. Glue it
on, drill the hole, run the line with a homemade trap using a return
(180 degree) bend and you should be good to go in an hour.

Joe

Isn't tapping into a sewer vent line for a condensate drain
or any kind of drain a plumbing code violation? And even
if it's legal, since this is the basement, that isn't going to
be easy.

On Dec 24, 2:46*pm, Paul Drahn wrote:
On 12/24/2011 7:41 AM, wrote:



Anyone with experience in typical plumbing codes have
advice on this? I need to route the condensate drain on
a high efficiency furnace/AC to an appropriate drain.

It appears that going outside is not a good idea, because
it's subject to freezing here and also I'm not keen on
putting extra water near the foundation in the most logical
area. *I don't have sump pump, so can't drain it to a
sump basin.

Here it's permitted and apparently a preferred
method to route it into the sewer system. *The simplest
way would be to route it to a laundry sink drain. *Problem
is I don't have one in the basement and the first floor
one is on the other side of the basement and running
anything up there to it isn't going to be easy either.

So, what I came up with is this. *I have a shower on
the first floor that is within range. *The trap is accessible
with maybe 7 inches of DWV pipe between it and the shower
drain. *I am looking to connect into there, above the
trap. *I've seen
online where HVAC guys have tapped into all kinds of
sewer or sewer vent lines using some kind of barbed
fitting where they just drill a hole and screw it in.
But I know some or all of them don;t meet code.
But I'm wondering if you do it in the right place, ie it's
protected by a trap, is that kind of connection code
compliant? * And what kind of fitting would one use?
I don't recall seeing any barbed fitting other than
standard pipe threads. *Would think you'd need
some different thread to screw into a hole drilled
into DWV pipe.

Or alternatively, let's say I cut the drain pipe, install
a wye fitting, reduce it down to a barbed fitting and
then connect the hose to that, is that code compliant?
I would think it would be, but not sure.

Any thoughts?

Be sure to put a "P" trap in the condensate drain line, what ever you do
with the water.

Paul- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Why does the condensate need a trap if there is already
a trap in the shower drain?

In some situations, the furnace is slightly below atmospheric pressure. With
an open drain, the inrush of air prevents the water from draining properly.
More often a problem with AC condensate drains.

Please consider a condensate pump, and move the water to a highe spot, like
going into the top of a drain line.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...

Why does the condensate need a trap if there is already
a trap in the shower drain?

On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 16:37:41 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:



Be sure to put a "P" trap in the condensate drain line, what ever you do
with the water.

Paul- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Why does the condensate need a trap if there is already
a trap in the shower drain?

I don't have a trap on mine.
It's all 3/4" PVC running to the sump.
All gravity.
If you have a condensate pump and tank, your idea of going to the
closet drain is fine. Check your local codes.
You are talking about running the condensate line from near the
basement floor to ceiling height, right?
If the condensate pump check valve is near the pump, the line going to
the shower drain will always be full.
So you can use a saddle instead of a Y above the trap.
Saves space and work.

--Vic.

On 12/24/2011 9:41 AM, wrote:
Anyone with experience in typical plumbing codes have
advice on this? I need to route the condensate drain on
a high efficiency furnace/AC to an appropriate drain.

It appears that going outside is not a good idea, because
it's subject to freezing here and also I'm not keen on
putting extra water near the foundation in the most logical
area. I don't have sump pump, so can't drain it to a
sump basin.

Here it's permitted and apparently a preferred
method to route it into the sewer system. The simplest
way would be to route it to a laundry sink drain. Problem
is I don't have one in the basement and the first floor
one is on the other side of the basement and running
anything up there to it isn't going to be easy either.

So, what I came up with is this. I have a shower on
the first floor that is within range. The trap is accessible
with maybe 7 inches of DWV pipe between it and the shower
drain. I am looking to connect into there, above the
trap. I've seen
online where HVAC guys have tapped into all kinds of
sewer or sewer vent lines using some kind of barbed
fitting where they just drill a hole and screw it in.
But I know some or all of them don;t meet code.
But I'm wondering if you do it in the right place, ie it's
protected by a trap, is that kind of connection code
compliant? And what kind of fitting would one use?
I don't recall seeing any barbed fitting other than
standard pipe threads. Would think you'd need
some different thread to screw into a hole drilled
into DWV pipe.

Or alternatively, let's say I cut the drain pipe, install
a wye fitting, reduce it down to a barbed fitting and
then connect the hose to that, is that code compliant?
I would think it would be, but not sure.

Any thoughts?

Most common is an indirect connection where the furnace drain goes to
something like a floor drain and drains through an air gap. Several of
the posts are an indirect connection.

Or there is a condensate pump at the furnace that pumps to an indirect
connection.

If you actually connect into the sewer pipes the furnace drain likely
needs sewer system features including a trap, a vent, and correctly
sized pipe.

Plumbing codes vary, but in my limited experience that is what codes are
likely to want.

--
bud--

On Dec 24, 8:33*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
In some situations, the furnace is slightly below atmospheric pressure. With
an open drain, the inrush of air prevents the water from draining properly.
More often a problem with AC condensate drains.

Please consider a condensate pump, and move the water to a highe spot, like
going into the top of a drain line.


Ahh, there's where the confusion is. I didn't state that the
condensate
is coming from a condensate pump, which it is. It was kind of
implied by
saying the furnace is in the basement and I'm fixing to tap into the
drain from a shower on the first floor. So, now we agree that no
trap besides the shower trap is needed, right?

On Dec 24, 9:40*pm, Vic Smith wrote:
On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 16:37:41 -0800 (PST), "

wrote:

Be sure to put a "P" trap in the condensate drain line, what ever you do
with the water.

Paul- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Why does the condensate need a trap if there is already
a trap in the shower drain?

I don't have a trap on mine.
It's all 3/4" PVC running to the sump.
All gravity.
If you have a condensate pump and tank, your idea of going to the
closet drain is fine. *Check your local codes.
You are talking about running the condensate line from near the
basement floor to ceiling height, right?

Yes.


If the condensate pump check valve is near the pump, the line going to
the shower drain will always be full.

Check valve is on the pump.

So you can use a saddle instead of a Y above the trap.
Saves space and work.

--Vic.

What do you call those saddle valves for a drain?
Sounds like exactly what I need. Only ones I'm familiar
with are the type for copper water lines.

Thanks!

On Dec 25, 2:41*am, bud-- wrote:
On 12/24/2011 9:41 AM, wrote:





Anyone with experience in typical plumbing codes have
advice on this? I need to route the condensate drain on
a high efficiency furnace/AC to an appropriate drain.

It appears that going outside is not a good idea, because
it's subject to freezing here and also I'm not keen on
putting extra water near the foundation in the most logical
area. *I don't have sump pump, so can't drain it to a
sump basin.

Here it's permitted and apparently a preferred
method to route it into the sewer system. *The simplest
way would be to route it to a laundry sink drain. *Problem
is I don't have one in the basement and the first floor
one is on the other side of the basement and running
anything up there to it isn't going to be easy either.

So, what I came up with is this. *I have a shower on
the first floor that is within range. *The trap is accessible
with maybe 7 inches of DWV pipe between it and the shower
drain. *I am looking to connect into there, above the
trap. *I've seen
online where HVAC guys have tapped into all kinds of
sewer or sewer vent lines using some kind of barbed
fitting where they just drill a hole and screw it in.
But I know some or all of them don;t meet code.
But I'm wondering if you do it in the right place, ie it's
protected by a trap, is that kind of connection code
compliant? * And what kind of fitting would one use?
I don't recall seeing any barbed fitting other than
standard pipe threads. *Would think you'd need
some different thread to screw into a hole drilled
into DWV pipe.

Or alternatively, let's say I cut the drain pipe, install
a wye fitting, reduce it down to a barbed fitting and
then connect the hose to that, is that code compliant?
I would think it would be, but not sure.

Any thoughts?

Most common is an indirect connection where the furnace drain goes to
something like a floor drain and drains through an air gap. Several of
the posts are an indirect connection.

Or there is a condensate pump at the furnace that pumps to an indirect
connection.

Sorry for not making it clear. There is a condensate pump and that
is how the condensate would get from the furnace up to the first
floor shower drain pipe.


If you actually connect into the sewer pipes the furnace drain likely
needs sewer system features including a trap, a vent, and correctly
sized pipe.

Which I believe I have, since it will connect above the shower trap.
So it will be very similar to a dishwasher connection to a sink drain.



Plumbing codes vary, but in my limited experience that is what codes are
likely to want.

--
bud--- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

On Dec 25, 9:42*am, "
wrote:
On Dec 24, 9:40*pm, Vic Smith wrote:





On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 16:37:41 -0800 (PST), "

wrote:

Be sure to put a "P" trap in the condensate drain line, what ever you do
with the water.

Paul- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Why does the condensate need a trap if there is already
a trap in the shower drain?

I don't have a trap on mine.
It's all 3/4" PVC running to the sump.
All gravity.
If you have a condensate pump and tank, your idea of going to the
closet drain is fine. *Check your local codes.
You are talking about running the condensate line from near the
basement floor to ceiling height, right?

Yes.

If the condensate pump check valve is near the pump, the line going to
the shower drain will always be full.

Check valve is on the pump.

So you can use a saddle instead of a Y above the trap.
Saves space and work.

--Vic.

What do you call those saddle valves for a drain?
Sounds like exactly what I need. *Only ones I'm familiar
with are the type for copper water lines.

Thanks!- Hide quoted text -



As they used to say on Saturday Night Live, "Never mind...."

I figured out what you are talking about. I've actually used them
on water lines, but I called them snap-on tees because
they snap over the pipe. Googling for saddle tee I found DWV
versions. Thanks for the suggestion as I
was not thinking of one for this and it would be a time
saver.

On Sun, 25 Dec 2011 06:42:31 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:




What do you call those saddle valves for a drain?
Sounds like exactly what I need. Only ones I'm familiar
with are the type for copper water lines.

Thanks!

Pipe saddle
http://www.mcmaster.com/#pvc-(schedu...ttings/=fin994

You may be able to find something cheaper, but this will work.

On Dec 24, 9:40*pm, Vic Smith wrote:
On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 16:37:41 -0800 (PST), "

wrote:

Be sure to put a "P" trap in the condensate drain line, what ever you do
with the water.

Paul- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Why does the condensate need a trap if there is already
a trap in the shower drain?

I don't have a trap on mine.
It's all 3/4" PVC running to the sump.
All gravity.
If you have a condensate pump and tank, your idea of going to the
closet drain is fine. *Check your local codes.
You are talking about running the condensate line from near the
basement floor to ceiling height, right?
If the condensate pump check valve is near the pump, the line going to
the shower drain will always be full.
So you can use a saddle instead of a Y above the trap.
Saves space and work.

--Vic.

In your setup you dont have to worry about any obnoxious gases backing
up into it. Not only is sewer gas stinky it is corrosive. Dont trust
the check valve on the condensate pump. We use them here at work on
our humidifiers and both failed within a year. I think we put in a
Watts check valve and it has had no problem since. Use a trap anyway
it keeps things out of the pump you dont want in it as condensate is
often contaminated with mold and algae.. Use some couplings so you can
take it apart if it ever becomes clogged.. The other line of thought
is glue it all up and put the couplings in when and if you ever need
them.

Jimmie

On 12/25/2011 8:45 AM, wrote:
On Dec 25, 2:41 am, wrote:

If you actually connect into the sewer pipes the furnace drain likely
needs sewer system features including a trap, a vent, and correctly
sized pipe.

Which I believe I have, since it will connect above the shower trap.
So it will be very similar to a dishwasher connection to a sink drain.

A short search gave
http://www.hartell.com/Files/Hartell...structions.pdf
10. Condensate can be drained out a window, along the air conditioner
freon line to outdoors, to a french drain or floor drain, sump pit, or
to a laundry tub or sink. (Leave an air gap between the end of the
discharge tube and drain).
11. Comply with all local codes for discharge water requirements.

These are all indirect wastes through an air gap, not directly into the
sewer system.

The short search didn't turn up anything else specific.

Ask an inspector? Codes may vary on this.


Furnace condensate is somewhat acidic, if I remember right.

--
bud--