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#1
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
Both my friend and I have the same problem, a wall switch box with
only two wires and a ground entering the switch box. We both had 24-hour timers that worked fine; we both bought replacements to find that they need 3 wires, they need the neutral. There were no insturctions on the outside of the packaging. Do they still sell timers that need only two wires? These will NOT use fluroescent lights. Not counting the ground wire from here on: The new ones have white, black, and red wires. The white goes to the neutral which is usually also white, the black to the hot which is usuallly also black, and the red goes to the load, the light bulb. But we don't have a neutral wire in the boxes that hold the switch. I havent' seen his but I have one piece of 12-2 Romex. Plainly, the neutral and hot wires went to the ceiling, but only the hot and its return went to the switch. The original toggle swich just made or broke the connecton beween the two wires. The first and second timers I had did the same thing. Those timersr broke years ago and I know what they looked like, but not the brand, and I haven't found them on the web. I could maybe put in a neutral if I have to, but the house he rents iisnt't suitable for that. Thanks. |
#2
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On 12/16/2011 13:34, micky wrote:
Both my friend and I have the same problem, a wall switch box with only two wires and a ground entering the switch box. We both had 24-hour timers that worked fine; we both bought replacements to find that they need 3 wires, they need the neutral. There were no insturctions on the outside of the packaging. Do they still sell timers that need only two wires? Intermatic still makes timers that don't require a neutral. Without a neutral the timer relies either on an internal battery or a trickle current through the lamp filament to operate the timer. In the latter case the timer works only with incandescent lamps. Thanks to our legislative nannies such timers will not work in many applications, hence their scarcity in the marketplace. -- |
#3
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On 12/16/2011 4:34 PM, micky wrote:
Both my friend and I have the same problem, a wall switch box with only two wires and a ground entering the switch box. We both had 24-hour timers that worked fine; we both bought replacements to find that they need 3 wires, they need the neutral. There were no insturctions on the outside of the packaging. Do they still sell timers that need only two wires? These will NOT use fluroescent lights. Not counting the ground wire from here on: The new ones have white, black, and red wires. The white goes to the neutral which is usually also white, the black to the hot which is usuallly also black, and the red goes to the load, the light bulb. But we don't have a neutral wire in the boxes that hold the switch. I havent' seen his but I have one piece of 12-2 Romex. Plainly, the neutral and hot wires went to the ceiling, but only the hot and its return went to the switch. The original toggle swich just made or broke the connecton beween the two wires. The first and second timers I had did the same thing. Those timersr broke years ago and I know what they looked like, but not the brand, and I haven't found them on the web. I could maybe put in a neutral if I have to, but the house he rents iisnt't suitable for that. Thanks. Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9YUGU/...N=B000Q 9YUGU |
#4
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On 12/16/2011 7:47 PM, RBM wrote:
On 12/16/2011 4:34 PM, micky wrote: Both my friend and I have the same problem, a wall switch box with only two wires and a ground entering the switch box. We both had 24-hour timers that worked fine; we both bought replacements to find that they need 3 wires, they need the neutral. There were no insturctions on the outside of the packaging. Do they still sell timers that need only two wires? These will NOT use fluroescent lights. Not counting the ground wire from here on: The new ones have white, black, and red wires. The white goes to the neutral which is usually also white, the black to the hot which is usuallly also black, and the red goes to the load, the light bulb. But we don't have a neutral wire in the boxes that hold the switch. I havent' seen his but I have one piece of 12-2 Romex. Plainly, the neutral and hot wires went to the ceiling, but only the hot and its return went to the switch. The original toggle swich just made or broke the connecton beween the two wires. The first and second timers I had did the same thing. Those timersr broke years ago and I know what they looked like, but not the brand, and I haven't found them on the web. I could maybe put in a neutral if I have to, but the house he rents iisnt't suitable for that. Thanks. Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9YUGU/...N=B000Q 9YUGU What powers the motor in it with no neutral available? |
#5
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On 12/16/2011 9:46 PM, Tony Miklos wrote:
On 12/16/2011 7:47 PM, RBM wrote: On 12/16/2011 4:34 PM, micky wrote: Both my friend and I have the same problem, a wall switch box with only two wires and a ground entering the switch box. We both had 24-hour timers that worked fine; we both bought replacements to find that they need 3 wires, they need the neutral. There were no insturctions on the outside of the packaging. Do they still sell timers that need only two wires? These will NOT use fluroescent lights. Not counting the ground wire from here on: The new ones have white, black, and red wires. The white goes to the neutral which is usually also white, the black to the hot which is usuallly also black, and the red goes to the load, the light bulb. But we don't have a neutral wire in the boxes that hold the switch. I havent' seen his but I have one piece of 12-2 Romex. Plainly, the neutral and hot wires went to the ceiling, but only the hot and its return went to the switch. The original toggle swich just made or broke the connecton beween the two wires. The first and second timers I had did the same thing. Those timersr broke years ago and I know what they looked like, but not the brand, and I haven't found them on the web. I could maybe put in a neutral if I have to, but the house he rents iisnt't suitable for that. Thanks. Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9YUGU/...N=B000Q 9YUGU What powers the motor in it with no neutral available? It doesn't have a motor in it, but it's powered by allowing a trickle of current through the circuit when it's in the off position |
#6
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 22:14:43 -0500, RBM wrote:
On 12/16/2011 9:46 PM, Tony Miklos wrote: On 12/16/2011 7:47 PM, RBM wrote: On 12/16/2011 4:34 PM, micky wrote: Both my friend and I have the same problem, a wall switch box with only two wires and a ground entering the switch box. We both had 24-hour timers that worked fine; we both bought replacements to find that they need 3 wires, they need the neutral. There were no insturctions on the outside of the packaging. Do they still sell timers that need only two wires? These will NOT use fluroescent lights. Not counting the ground wire from here on: The new ones have white, black, and red wires. The white goes to the neutral which is usually also white, the black to the hot which is usuallly also black, and the red goes to the load, the light bulb. But we don't have a neutral wire in the boxes that hold the switch. I havent' seen his but I have one piece of 12-2 Romex. Plainly, the neutral and hot wires went to the ceiling, but only the hot and its return went to the switch. The original toggle swich just made or broke the connecton beween the two wires. The first and second timers I had did the same thing. Those timersr broke years ago and I know what they looked like, but not the brand, and I haven't found them on the web. I could maybe put in a neutral if I have to, but the house he rents iisnt't suitable for that. Thanks. Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9YUGU/...N=B000Q 9YUGU What powers the motor in it with no neutral available? It doesn't have a motor in it, but it's powered by allowing a trickle of current through the circuit when it's in the off position There are LOTS of 24 hour timer units available that have a little button battery that operates the timer for a year or two per battery change that will work anywhere a toggle or rocker switch will work - including on 2 wire switched return circuits |
#8
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
"micky" wrote in message ... Both my friend and I have the same problem, a wall switch box with only two wires and a ground entering the switch box. We both had 24-hour timers that worked fine; we both bought replacements to find that they need 3 wires, they need the neutral. There were no insturctions on the outside of the packaging. Do they still sell timers that need only two wires? These will NOT use fluroescent lights. Not counting the ground wire from here on: The new ones have white, black, and red wires. The white goes to the neutral which is usually also white, the black to the hot which is usuallly also black, and the red goes to the load, the light bulb. But we don't have a neutral wire in the boxes that hold the switch. I havent' seen his but I have one piece of 12-2 Romex. Plainly, the neutral and hot wires went to the ceiling, but only the hot and its return went to the switch. The original toggle swich just made or broke the connecton beween the two wires. The first and second timers I had did the same thing. Those timersr broke years ago and I know what they looked like, but not the brand, and I haven't found them on the web. I could maybe put in a neutral if I have to, but the house he rents iisnt't suitable for that. Thanks. Ace Hardware # 3290160 60 minute spring wound timer. I use for a heat lamp in bathroom. WW |
#9
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 19:47:35 -0500, RBM wrote:
On 12/16/2011 4:34 PM, micky wrote: Both my friend and I have the same problem, a wall switch box with only two wires and a ground entering the switch box. We both had 24-hour timers that worked fine; we both bought replacements to find that they need 3 wires, they need the neutral. There were no insturctions on the outside of the packaging. Do they still sell timers that need only two wires? These will NOT use fluroescent lights. Not counting the ground wire from here on: The new ones have white, black, and red wires. The white goes to the neutral which is usually also white, the black to the hot which is usuallly also black, and the red goes to the load, the light bulb. But we don't have a neutral wire in the boxes that hold the switch. I havent' seen his but I have one piece of 12-2 Romex. Plainly, the neutral and hot wires went to the ceiling, but only the hot and its return went to the switch. The original toggle swich just made or broke the connecton beween the two wires. The first and second timers I had did the same thing. Those timersr broke years ago and I know what they looked like, but not the brand, and I haven't found them on the web. I could maybe put in a neutral if I have to, but the house he rents iisnt't suitable for that. Thanks. Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9YUGU/...N=B000Q 9YUGU Thanks RBM (and thanks all). This one will be just fine. It's very much like the one I had first. Plus this pointed me to www.1000bubls.com which includes pdf manuals for this one, and a couple other Intermatic that I looked at. I'm confused by the ST01. http://www.1000bulbs.com/pdf/Inter-ST01C-Operating.pdf It says: Resistive (heater) 15 Amp, 120-277 VAC Tungsten (incandescent) 15 Amp @ 120 VAC, 6 Amp @ 208-277 VAC Ballast (fluorescent) 8 Amp @ 120 VAC, 4 Amp @ 208-277 VAC Motors 1 H.P. @ 120 VAC, 2 H.P. @ 240 VAC DC Loads 4 Amp @ 12 VDC, 2 Amp @ 28 VDC Does "Ballast (fluorescent)" include all fluroescent? Especiallly CFLs? It uses a battery like you said, so maybe that means it works in anything. From the installation pdf, you can see that it too only uses 2 wires (3 for 3-way.) |
#10
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
micky wrote:
Plus this pointed me to www.1000bubls.com which includes pdf manuals for this one, and a couple other Intermatic that I looked at. I'm confused by the ST01. http://www.1000bulbs.com/pdf/Inter-ST01C-Operating.pdf It says: Resistive (heater) 15 Amp, 120-277 VAC Tungsten (incandescent) 15 Amp @ 120 VAC, 6 Amp @ 208-277 VAC Ballast (fluorescent) 8 Amp @ 120 VAC, 4 Amp @ 208-277 VAC Motors 1 H.P. @ 120 VAC, 2 H.P. @ 240 VAC DC Loads 4 Amp @ 12 VDC, 2 Amp @ 28 VDC Does "Ballast (fluorescent)" include all fluroescent? Especiallly CFLs? I have a couple of ST01C's and they work fine with CFL's. They use a battery to keep time and they have multiple on-off switching ability. They can be programmed to switch time for daylight savings, and they can also be programmed to automatically compensate for varying daylight lengths (longer in summer--shorter in winter). A great timer, however they are quite complex to program. You can find them for a reasonable price on Ebay. ================================================== ====== Remove the ZZZ from my E-mail address to send me E-mail. |
#11
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
I forgot to mention---The ST01C is white and the ST01AC is almond in color.
================================================== ====== Remove the ZZZ from my E-mail address to send me E-mail. |
#12
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On 12/16/2011 11:21 PM, Tony Miklos wrote:
On 12/16/2011 10:29 PM, wrote: On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 22:14:43 -0500, wrote: On 12/16/2011 9:46 PM, Tony Miklos wrote: On 12/16/2011 7:47 PM, RBM wrote: On 12/16/2011 4:34 PM, micky wrote: Both my friend and I have the same problem, a wall switch box with only two wires and a ground entering the switch box. We both had 24-hour timers that worked fine; we both bought replacements to find that they need 3 wires, they need the neutral. There were no insturctions on the outside of the packaging. Do they still sell timers that need only two wires? These will NOT use fluroescent lights. Not counting the ground wire from here on: The new ones have white, black, and red wires. The white goes to the neutral which is usually also white, the black to the hot which is usuallly also black, and the red goes to the load, the light bulb. But we don't have a neutral wire in the boxes that hold the switch. I havent' seen his but I have one piece of 12-2 Romex. Plainly, the neutral and hot wires went to the ceiling, but only the hot and its return went to the switch. The original toggle swich just made or broke the connecton beween the two wires. The first and second timers I had did the same thing. Those timersr broke years ago and I know what they looked like, but not the brand, and I haven't found them on the web. I could maybe put in a neutral if I have to, but the house he rents iisnt't suitable for that. Thanks. Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9YUGU/...N=B000Q 9YUGU What powers the motor in it with no neutral available? It doesn't have a motor in it, but it's powered by allowing a trickle of current through the circuit when it's in the off position There are LOTS of 24 hour timer units available that have a little button battery that operates the timer for a year or two per battery change that will work anywhere a toggle or rocker switch will work - including on 2 wire switched return circuits "Mechanical" timers running a couple years on a battery? I think that their reference to "mechanical" is how you operate the thing. You have to turn the dial and push it in to set it. Their digital models have push buttons and a screen. The timing mechanism is electronic, not mechanical |
#13
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On 12/17/2011 7:07 AM, RBM wrote:
On 12/16/2011 11:21 PM, Tony Miklos wrote: On 12/16/2011 10:29 PM, wrote: On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 22:14:43 -0500, wrote: On 12/16/2011 9:46 PM, Tony Miklos wrote: On 12/16/2011 7:47 PM, RBM wrote: On 12/16/2011 4:34 PM, micky wrote: Both my friend and I have the same problem, a wall switch box with only two wires and a ground entering the switch box. We both had 24-hour timers that worked fine; we both bought replacements to find that they need 3 wires, they need the neutral. There were no insturctions on the outside of the packaging. Do they still sell timers that need only two wires? These will NOT use fluroescent lights. Not counting the ground wire from here on: The new ones have white, black, and red wires. The white goes to the neutral which is usually also white, the black to the hot which is usuallly also black, and the red goes to the load, the light bulb. But we don't have a neutral wire in the boxes that hold the switch. I havent' seen his but I have one piece of 12-2 Romex. Plainly, the neutral and hot wires went to the ceiling, but only the hot and its return went to the switch. The original toggle swich just made or broke the connecton beween the two wires. The first and second timers I had did the same thing. Those timersr broke years ago and I know what they looked like, but not the brand, and I haven't found them on the web. I could maybe put in a neutral if I have to, but the house he rents iisnt't suitable for that. Thanks. Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9YUGU/...N=B000Q 9YUGU What powers the motor in it with no neutral available? It doesn't have a motor in it, but it's powered by allowing a trickle of current through the circuit when it's in the off position There are LOTS of 24 hour timer units available that have a little button battery that operates the timer for a year or two per battery change that will work anywhere a toggle or rocker switch will work - including on 2 wire switched return circuits "Mechanical" timers running a couple years on a battery? I think that their reference to "mechanical" is how you operate the thing. You have to turn the dial and push it in to set it. Their digital models have push buttons and a screen. The timing mechanism is electronic, not mechanical I checked the instructions and you are right. Only two wires and a 40watt incandescent minimum load. By the looks of it and the description, it sure looks motorized. |
#14
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 23:21:44 -0500, Tony Miklos
wrote: On 12/16/2011 10:29 PM, wrote: On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 22:14:43 -0500, wrote: On 12/16/2011 9:46 PM, Tony Miklos wrote: On 12/16/2011 7:47 PM, RBM wrote: On 12/16/2011 4:34 PM, micky wrote: Both my friend and I have the same problem, a wall switch box with only two wires and a ground entering the switch box. We both had 24-hour timers that worked fine; we both bought replacements to find that they need 3 wires, they need the neutral. There were no insturctions on the outside of the packaging. Do they still sell timers that need only two wires? These will NOT use fluroescent lights. Not counting the ground wire from here on: The new ones have white, black, and red wires. The white goes to the neutral which is usually also white, the black to the hot which is usuallly also black, and the red goes to the load, the light bulb. But we don't have a neutral wire in the boxes that hold the switch. I havent' seen his but I have one piece of 12-2 Romex. Plainly, the neutral and hot wires went to the ceiling, but only the hot and its return went to the switch. The original toggle swich just made or broke the connecton beween the two wires. The first and second timers I had did the same thing. Those timersr broke years ago and I know what they looked like, but not the brand, and I haven't found them on the web. I could maybe put in a neutral if I have to, but the house he rents iisnt't suitable for that. Thanks. Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9YUGU/...N=B000Q 9YUGU What powers the motor in it with no neutral available? It doesn't have a motor in it, but it's powered by allowing a trickle of current through the circuit when it's in the off position There are LOTS of 24 hour timer units available that have a little button battery that operates the timer for a year or two per battery change that will work anywhere a toggle or rocker switch will work - including on 2 wire switched return circuits "Mechanical" timers running a couple years on a battery? 24 hour "mechanical" timers doesn't make any sense either. |
#15
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 21:48:54 -0700, "WW"
wrote: "micky" wrote in message .. . Both my friend and I have the same problem, a wall switch box with only two wires and a ground entering the switch box. We both had 24-hour timers that worked fine; we both bought replacements to find that they need 3 wires, they need the neutral. There were no insturctions on the outside of the packaging. Do they still sell timers that need only two wires? These will NOT use fluroescent lights. Not counting the ground wire from here on: The new ones have white, black, and red wires. The white goes to the neutral which is usually also white, the black to the hot which is usuallly also black, and the red goes to the load, the light bulb. But we don't have a neutral wire in the boxes that hold the switch. I havent' seen his but I have one piece of 12-2 Romex. Plainly, the neutral and hot wires went to the ceiling, but only the hot and its return went to the switch. The original toggle swich just made or broke the connecton beween the two wires. The first and second timers I had did the same thing. Those timersr broke years ago and I know what they looked like, but not the brand, and I haven't found them on the web. I could maybe put in a neutral if I have to, but the house he rents iisnt't suitable for that. Thanks. Ace Hardware # 3290160 60 minute spring wound timer. I use for a heat lamp in bathroom. WW The OP did not say what he was using the timer for - only said it was a "24 hour" timer and a "mechanical" timer. The two don't really go together. At least from what I understand. If he wants a 24 hour timer to turn lights on and off, for instance, the electronic timer units with a battery do the job quite nicely. The one on my daughter's entrance light ran over 2 years on a pair of button batteries. If he wants a timer to turn something off after a given amount of time there are electronic ones that need 3 wires, and spring wound ones (getting harder to find good ones) - and I HAVE seen electric "count down timers" that use a battery as well. Been a while so I cannot remember manufacturer or source (likely Home Despot) |
#16
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On Sat, 17 Dec 2011 01:59:04 -0500, micky
wrote: On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 19:47:35 -0500, RBM wrote: On 12/16/2011 4:34 PM, micky wrote: Both my friend and I have the same problem, a wall switch box with only two wires and a ground entering the switch box. We both had 24-hour timers that worked fine; we both bought replacements to find that they need 3 wires, they need the neutral. There were no insturctions on the outside of the packaging. Do they still sell timers that need only two wires? These will NOT use fluroescent lights. Not counting the ground wire from here on: The new ones have white, black, and red wires. The white goes to the neutral which is usually also white, the black to the hot which is usuallly also black, and the red goes to the load, the light bulb. But we don't have a neutral wire in the boxes that hold the switch. I havent' seen his but I have one piece of 12-2 Romex. Plainly, the neutral and hot wires went to the ceiling, but only the hot and its return went to the switch. The original toggle swich just made or broke the connecton beween the two wires. The first and second timers I had did the same thing. Those timersr broke years ago and I know what they looked like, but not the brand, and I haven't found them on the web. I could maybe put in a neutral if I have to, but the house he rents iisnt't suitable for that. Thanks. Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9YUGU/...N=B000Q 9YUGU Thanks RBM (and thanks all). This one will be just fine. It's very much like the one I had first. Plus this pointed me to www.1000bubls.com which includes pdf manuals for this one, and a couple other Intermatic that I looked at. I'm confused by the ST01. http://www.1000bulbs.com/pdf/Inter-ST01C-Operating.pdf It says: Resistive (heater) 15 Amp, 120-277 VAC Tungsten (incandescent) 15 Amp @ 120 VAC, 6 Amp @ 208-277 VAC Ballast (fluorescent) 8 Amp @ 120 VAC, 4 Amp @ 208-277 VAC Motors 1 H.P. @ 120 VAC, 2 H.P. @ 240 VAC DC Loads 4 Amp @ 12 VDC, 2 Amp @ 28 VDC Does "Ballast (fluorescent)" include all fluroescent? Especiallly CFLs? It uses a battery like you said, so maybe that means it works in anything. From the installation pdf, you can see that it too only uses 2 wires (3 for 3-way.) Ballast includes all flourescent and vapour lamps with a ballast, including CFL. They are pretty much the "swiss army knife" of timers - work on ac or dc from pretty well o to 277 volts AC and 0 to 28 volts (and likely higher at very low current) dc. (likely 48 volts and 1 amp) |
#17
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On Dec 17, 5:05*pm, wrote:
On Sat, 17 Dec 2011 01:59:04 -0500, micky wrote: On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 19:47:35 -0500, RBM wrote: On 12/16/2011 4:34 PM, micky wrote: Both my friend and I have the same problem, a wall switch box with only two wires and a ground entering the switch box. * We both had 24-hour timers that worked fine; we both bought replacements to find that they need 3 wires, they need the neutral. * *There were no insturctions on the outside of the packaging. Do they still sell timers that need only two wires? These will NOT use fluroescent lights. Not counting the ground wire from here on: The new ones have white, black, and red wires. * * The white goes to the neutral which is usually also white, the black to the hot which is usuallly also *black, and the red goes to the load, the light bulb. But we don't have a neutral wire in the boxes that hold the switch. I havent' seen his but I *have one piece of 12-2 Romex. *Plainly, the neutral and hot wires went to the ceiling, but only the hot and its return went to the switch. The original toggle swich just made or broke the connecton beween the two wires. The first and second timers I had did the same thing. Those timersr broke years ago and I know what they looked like, but not the brand, and *I haven't found them on the web. I could maybe put in a neutral if I have to, but the house he rents iisnt't suitable for that. Thanks. Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9YUGU/...GU1823493?smid.... Thanks RBM (and thanks all). *This one will be just fine. It's very much like the one I had first. Plus this pointed me to *www.1000bubls.comwhich includes pdf manuals for this one, and a couple other Intermatic that I looked at. I'm confused by the ST01. http://www.1000bulbs.com/pdf/Inter-ST01C-Operating.pdf It says: Resistive (heater) 15 Amp, 120-277 VAC Tungsten (incandescent) 15 Amp @ 120 VAC, 6 Amp @ 208-277 VAC Ballast (fluorescent) 8 Amp @ 120 VAC, 4 Amp @ 208-277 VAC Motors 1 H.P. @ 120 VAC, 2 H.P. @ 240 VAC DC Loads 4 Amp @ 12 VDC, 2 Amp @ 28 VDC Does "Ballast (fluorescent)" *include all fluroescent? *Especiallly CFLs? It uses a battery like you said, so maybe that means it works in anything. * From the installation pdf, you can see that it too only uses 2 wires (3 for 3-way.) * Ballast includes all flourescent and vapour lamps with a ballast, including CFL. *They are pretty much the "swiss army knife" of timers - work on ac or dc from pretty well o to 277 volts AC and 0 to 28 volts (and likely higher at very low current) dc. (likely 48 volts and 1 amp)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - CFLs have no ballast. Ballasted referrs to the non electronic fuoresecent with an inductor/ballast/choke inside and usually with a starter switch, ie the "old fashoined" ones. Switches have to be downrated for this use. |
#18
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On 12/17/2011 11:35 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 23:21:44 -0500, Tony Miklos wrote: On 12/16/2011 10:29 PM, wrote: On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 22:14:43 -0500, wrote: On 12/16/2011 9:46 PM, Tony Miklos wrote: On 12/16/2011 7:47 PM, RBM wrote: On 12/16/2011 4:34 PM, micky wrote: Both my friend and I have the same problem, a wall switch box with only two wires and a ground entering the switch box. We both had 24-hour timers that worked fine; we both bought replacements to find that they need 3 wires, they need the neutral. There were no insturctions on the outside of the packaging. Do they still sell timers that need only two wires? These will NOT use fluroescent lights. Not counting the ground wire from here on: The new ones have white, black, and red wires. The white goes to the neutral which is usually also white, the black to the hot which is usuallly also black, and the red goes to the load, the light bulb. But we don't have a neutral wire in the boxes that hold the switch. I havent' seen his but I have one piece of 12-2 Romex. Plainly, the neutral and hot wires went to the ceiling, but only the hot and its return went to the switch. The original toggle swich just made or broke the connecton beween the two wires. The first and second timers I had did the same thing. Those timersr broke years ago and I know what they looked like, but not the brand, and I haven't found them on the web. I could maybe put in a neutral if I have to, but the house he rents iisnt't suitable for that. Thanks. Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9YUGU/...N=B000Q 9YUGU What powers the motor in it with no neutral available? It doesn't have a motor in it, but it's powered by allowing a trickle of current through the circuit when it's in the off position There are LOTS of 24 hour timer units available that have a little button battery that operates the timer for a year or two per battery change that will work anywhere a toggle or rocker switch will work - including on 2 wire switched return circuits "Mechanical" timers running a couple years on a battery? 24 hour "mechanical" timers doesn't make any sense either. I disagree. Having installed many dozens of in wall electronic, digital, and electromechanical time clocks, despite requiring a neutral, the electromechanical 24 hr clocks like the Tork 701A are practically indestructible, where any minor voltage spike takes out the electronic models |
#19
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
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#20
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On Sat, 17 Dec 2011 10:53:57 -0800 (PST), harry wrote:
On Dec 17, 5:05*pm, wrote: On Sat, 17 Dec 2011 01:59:04 -0500, micky wrote: On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 19:47:35 -0500, RBM wrote: On 12/16/2011 4:34 PM, micky wrote: Both my friend and I have the same problem, a wall switch box with only two wires and a ground entering the switch box. * We both had 24-hour timers that worked fine; we both bought replacements to find that they need 3 wires, they need the neutral. * *There were no insturctions on the outside of the packaging. Do they still sell timers that need only two wires? These will NOT use fluroescent lights. Not counting the ground wire from here on: The new ones have white, black, and red wires. * * The white goes to the neutral which is usually also white, the black to the hot which is usuallly also *black, and the red goes to the load, the light bulb. But we don't have a neutral wire in the boxes that hold the switch. I havent' seen his but I *have one piece of 12-2 Romex. *Plainly, the neutral and hot wires went to the ceiling, but only the hot and its return went to the switch. The original toggle swich just made or broke the connecton beween the two wires. The first and second timers I had did the same thing. Those timersr broke years ago and I know what they looked like, but not the brand, and *I haven't found them on the web. I could maybe put in a neutral if I have to, but the house he rents iisnt't suitable for that. Thanks. Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9YUGU/...GU1823493?smid... Thanks RBM (and thanks all). *This one will be just fine. It's very much like the one I had first. Plus this pointed me to *www.1000bubls.comwhich includes pdf manuals for this one, and a couple other Intermatic that I looked at. I'm confused by the ST01. http://www.1000bulbs.com/pdf/Inter-ST01C-Operating.pdf It says: Resistive (heater) 15 Amp, 120-277 VAC Tungsten (incandescent) 15 Amp @ 120 VAC, 6 Amp @ 208-277 VAC Ballast (fluorescent) 8 Amp @ 120 VAC, 4 Amp @ 208-277 VAC Motors 1 H.P. @ 120 VAC, 2 H.P. @ 240 VAC DC Loads 4 Amp @ 12 VDC, 2 Amp @ 28 VDC Does "Ballast (fluorescent)" *include all fluroescent? *Especiallly CFLs? It uses a battery like you said, so maybe that means it works in anything. * From the installation pdf, you can see that it too only uses 2 wires (3 for 3-way.) * Ballast includes all flourescent and vapour lamps with a ballast, including CFL. *They are pretty much the "swiss army knife" of timers - work on ac or dc from pretty well o to 277 volts AC and 0 to 28 volts (and likely higher at very low current) dc. (likely 48 volts and 1 amp)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - CFLs have no ballast. Ballasted referrs to the non electronic fuoresecent with an inductor/ballast/choke inside and usually with a starter switch, ie the "old fashoined" ones. Switches have to be downrated for this use. Utter nonsense. OTOH, if you only talked about things you knew something about you'd be a mute. |
#21
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On Sat, 17 Dec 2011 12:05:41 -0500, wrote:
micky wrote: On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 19:47:35 -0500, RBM wrote: micky wrote: Both my friend and I have the same problem, a wall switch box with only two wires and a ground entering the switch box. We both had 24-hour timers that worked fine; we both bought replacements to find that they need 3 wires, they need the neutral. There were no insturctions on the outside of the packaging. Do they still sell timers that need only two wires? These will NOT use fluroescent lights. Not counting the ground wire from here on: The new ones have white, black, and red wires. The white goes to the neutral which is usually also white, the black to the hot which is usuallly also black, and the red goes to the load, the light bulb. But we don't have a neutral wire in the boxes that hold the switch. I havent' seen his but I have one piece of 12-2 Romex. Plainly, the neutral and hot wires went to the ceiling, but only the hot and its return went to the switch. The original toggle swich just made or broke the connecton beween the two wires. The first and second timers I had did the same thing. Those timersr broke years ago and I know what they looked like, but not the brand, and I haven't found them on the web. I could maybe put in a neutral if I have to, but the house he rents iisnt't suitable for that. Thanks. Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9YUGU/...N=B000Q 9YUGU Thanks RBM (and thanks all). This one will be just fine. It's very much like the one I had first. Plus this pointed me to www.1000bubls.com which includes pdf manuals for this one, and a couple other Intermatic that I looked at. I'm confused by the ST01. http://www.1000bulbs.com/pdf/Inter-ST01C-Operating.pdf It says: Resistive (heater) 15 Amp, 120-277 VAC Tungsten (incandescent) 15 Amp @ 120 VAC, 6 Amp @ 208-277 VAC Ballast (fluorescent) 8 Amp @ 120 VAC, 4 Amp @ 208-277 VAC Motors 1 H.P. @ 120 VAC, 2 H.P. @ 240 VAC DC Loads 4 Amp @ 12 VDC, 2 Amp @ 28 VDC Does "Ballast (fluorescent)" include all fluroescent? Especiallly CFLs? It uses a battery like you said, so maybe that means it works in anything. From the installation pdf, you can see that it too only uses 2 wires (3 for 3-way.) Ballast includes all flourescent and vapour lamps with a ballast, including CFL. Thanks. Maybe this won't confuse me anymore. They are pretty much the "swiss army knife" of timers - work on ac or dc from pretty well o to 277 volts AC and 0 to 28 volts (and likely higher at very low current) dc. (likely 48 volts and 1 amp) Very good to know. BTW, these are for the ceiling lights, in one case a kitchen and the other case a dining room. Partly to give the houses a lived-in look when no one is home. |
#22
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On Sat, 17 Dec 2011 10:57:22 GMT, (Ron in
NY) wrote: micky wrote: Plus this pointed me to www.1000bubls.com which includes pdf manuals for this one, and a couple other Intermatic that I looked at. I'm confused by the ST01. http://www.1000bulbs.com/pdf/Inter-ST01C-Operating.pdf It says: Resistive (heater) 15 Amp, 120-277 VAC Tungsten (incandescent) 15 Amp @ 120 VAC, 6 Amp @ 208-277 VAC Ballast (fluorescent) 8 Amp @ 120 VAC, 4 Amp @ 208-277 VAC Motors 1 H.P. @ 120 VAC, 2 H.P. @ 240 VAC DC Loads 4 Amp @ 12 VDC, 2 Amp @ 28 VDC Does "Ballast (fluorescent)" include all fluroescent? Especiallly CFLs? I have a couple of ST01C's and they work fine with CFL's. They use a battery to keep time and they have multiple on-off switching ability. They can be programmed to switch time for daylight savings, and they can also be programmed to automatically compensate for varying daylight lengths (longer in summer--shorter in winter). A great timer, It *sounds* great!! Thanks. however they are quite complex to program. I can handle it, he said proudly, and my friend's landlady is pretty smart, but sometimes gets stubborn and plays dumb. The two of them can work it out. You can find them for a reasonable price on Ebay. Thanks again, I often forget to look on ebay. ================================================= ======= Remove the ZZZ from my E-mail address to send me E-mail. P&M |
#23
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On Sat, 17 Dec 2011 01:59:04 -0500, micky
wrote: Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9YUGU/...N=B000Q 9YUGU Thanks RBM (and thanks all). This one will be just fine. It's very much like the one I had first. Plus this pointed me to www.1000bubls.com which includes pdf manuals for this one, and a couple other Intermatic that I looked at. I'm confused by the ST01. http://www.1000bulbs.com/pdf/Inter-ST01C-Operating.pdf It says: Resistive (heater) 15 Amp, 120-277 VAC Tungsten (incandescent) 15 Amp @ 120 VAC, 6 Amp @ 208-277 VAC Ballast (fluorescent) 8 Amp @ 120 VAC, 4 Amp @ 208-277 VAC Motors 1 H.P. @ 120 VAC, 2 H.P. @ 240 VAC DC Loads 4 Amp @ 12 VDC, 2 Amp @ 28 VDC Does "Ballast (fluorescent)" include all fluroescent? Especiallly CFLs? Replying to myself (so as not to get into a fight!) I found at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_ballast the fourth and last picture "Electronic ballast of a compact fluorescent lamp" and it shows a CFL that's been opened. Plus http://www.1000bulbs.com/category/4-...cent-ballasts/ and http://www.1000bulbs.com/category/2-...cent-ballasts/ which seem to be external ballasts, but still are under the heading "Compact Fluorescent Ballasts (CFL)" They really seem more like "compact (fluorescent-ballasts). IOW, I don't know what they are but Ron's first-hand report and the wikip link are enough for me. It uses a battery like you said, so maybe that means it works in anything. From the installation pdf, you can see that it too only uses 2 wires (3 for 3-way.) |
#24
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On Sat, 17 Dec 2011 10:53:57 -0800 (PST), harry
wrote: On Dec 17, 5:05Â*pm, wrote: On Sat, 17 Dec 2011 01:59:04 -0500, micky wrote: On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 19:47:35 -0500, RBM wrote: On 12/16/2011 4:34 PM, micky wrote: Both my friend and I have the same problem, a wall switch box with only two wires and a ground entering the switch box. Â* We both had 24-hour timers that worked fine; we both bought replacements to find that they need 3 wires, they need the neutral. Â* Â*There were no insturctions on the outside of the packaging. Do they still sell timers that need only two wires? These will NOT use fluroescent lights. Not counting the ground wire from here on: The new ones have white, black, and red wires. Â* Â* The white goes to the neutral which is usually also white, the black to the hot which is usuallly also Â*black, and the red goes to the load, the light bulb. But we don't have a neutral wire in the boxes that hold the switch. I havent' seen his but I Â*have one piece of 12-2 Romex. Â*Plainly, the neutral and hot wires went to the ceiling, but only the hot and its return went to the switch. The original toggle swich just made or broke the connecton beween the two wires. The first and second timers I had did the same thing. Those timersr broke years ago and I know what they looked like, but not the brand, and Â*I haven't found them on the web. I could maybe put in a neutral if I have to, but the house he rents iisnt't suitable for that. Thanks. Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9YUGU/...GU1823493?smid... Thanks RBM (and thanks all). Â*This one will be just fine. It's very much like the one I had first. Plus this pointed me to Â*www.1000bubls.comwhich includes pdf manuals for this one, and a couple other Intermatic that I looked at. I'm confused by the ST01. http://www.1000bulbs.com/pdf/Inter-ST01C-Operating.pdf It says: Resistive (heater) 15 Amp, 120-277 VAC Tungsten (incandescent) 15 Amp @ 120 VAC, 6 Amp @ 208-277 VAC Ballast (fluorescent) 8 Amp @ 120 VAC, 4 Amp @ 208-277 VAC Motors 1 H.P. @ 120 VAC, 2 H.P. @ 240 VAC DC Loads 4 Amp @ 12 VDC, 2 Amp @ 28 VDC Does "Ballast (fluorescent)" Â*include all fluroescent? Â*Especiallly CFLs? It uses a battery like you said, so maybe that means it works in anything. Â* From the installation pdf, you can see that it too only uses 2 wires (3 for 3-way.) Â* Ballast includes all flourescent and vapour lamps with a ballast, including CFL. Â*They are pretty much the "swiss army knife" of timers - work on ac or dc from pretty well o to 277 volts AC and 0 to 28 volts (and likely higher at very low current) dc. (likely 48 volts and 1 amp)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - CFLs have no ballast. Ballasted referrs to the non electronic fuoresecent with an inductor/ballast/choke inside and usually with a starter switch, ie the "old fashoined" ones. Switches have to be downrated for this use. "electronic ballasts" are generally also subject to switch de-rating - and CFLs have an "electronic ballast" .The derating factor may well be less on electronics, but the "be safe" method is to treat all flourescents as ballasted lamps when calculating switching loads. |
#25
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On Sat, 17 Dec 2011 15:17:41 -0500, RBM wrote:
On 12/17/2011 11:35 AM, wrote: On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 23:21:44 -0500, Tony Miklos wrote: On 12/16/2011 10:29 PM, wrote: On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 22:14:43 -0500, wrote: On 12/16/2011 9:46 PM, Tony Miklos wrote: On 12/16/2011 7:47 PM, RBM wrote: On 12/16/2011 4:34 PM, micky wrote: Both my friend and I have the same problem, a wall switch box with only two wires and a ground entering the switch box. We both had 24-hour timers that worked fine; we both bought replacements to find that they need 3 wires, they need the neutral. There were no insturctions on the outside of the packaging. Do they still sell timers that need only two wires? These will NOT use fluroescent lights. Not counting the ground wire from here on: The new ones have white, black, and red wires. The white goes to the neutral which is usually also white, the black to the hot which is usuallly also black, and the red goes to the load, the light bulb. But we don't have a neutral wire in the boxes that hold the switch. I havent' seen his but I have one piece of 12-2 Romex. Plainly, the neutral and hot wires went to the ceiling, but only the hot and its return went to the switch. The original toggle swich just made or broke the connecton beween the two wires. The first and second timers I had did the same thing. Those timersr broke years ago and I know what they looked like, but not the brand, and I haven't found them on the web. I could maybe put in a neutral if I have to, but the house he rents iisnt't suitable for that. Thanks. Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9YUGU/...N=B000Q 9YUGU What powers the motor in it with no neutral available? It doesn't have a motor in it, but it's powered by allowing a trickle of current through the circuit when it's in the off position There are LOTS of 24 hour timer units available that have a little button battery that operates the timer for a year or two per battery change that will work anywhere a toggle or rocker switch will work - including on 2 wire switched return circuits "Mechanical" timers running a couple years on a battery? 24 hour "mechanical" timers doesn't make any sense either. I disagree. Having installed many dozens of in wall electronic, digital, and electromechanical time clocks, despite requiring a neutral, the electromechanical 24 hr clocks like the Tork 701A are practically indestructible, where any minor voltage spike takes out the electronic models I guess it depends on the definitions -of Mechanical, in particular. Mechanical TIMER or mechanical SWITCH. |
#26
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On Sat, 17 Dec 2011 17:08:35 -0500, micky
wrote: On Sat, 17 Dec 2011 11:35:35 -0500, wrote: What powers the motor in it with no neutral available? It doesn't have a motor in it, but it's powered by allowing a trickle of current through the circuit when it's in the off position There are LOTS of 24 hour timer units available that have a little button battery that operates the timer for a year or two per battery change that will work anywhere a toggle or rocker switch will work - including on 2 wire switched return circuits "Mechanical" timers running a couple years on a battery? 24 hour "mechanical" timers doesn't make any sense either. No, they exist. I think there are 7-day timers too. In the grey metal box about the size of a thick bible, with a silver-grey lever coming out the side for manual on/oiff. Usually hard-wired And almost exclusively requiring a minimum of 3 wires - one of which is a neutral. |
#27
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On Sat, 17 Dec 2011 17:43:57 -0500, micky
wrote: On Sat, 17 Dec 2011 12:05:41 -0500, wrote: micky wrote: On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 19:47:35 -0500, RBM wrote: micky wrote: Both my friend and I have the same problem, a wall switch box with only two wires and a ground entering the switch box. We both had 24-hour timers that worked fine; we both bought replacements to find that they need 3 wires, they need the neutral. There were no insturctions on the outside of the packaging. Do they still sell timers that need only two wires? These will NOT use fluroescent lights. Not counting the ground wire from here on: The new ones have white, black, and red wires. The white goes to the neutral which is usually also white, the black to the hot which is usuallly also black, and the red goes to the load, the light bulb. But we don't have a neutral wire in the boxes that hold the switch. I havent' seen his but I have one piece of 12-2 Romex. Plainly, the neutral and hot wires went to the ceiling, but only the hot and its return went to the switch. The original toggle swich just made or broke the connecton beween the two wires. The first and second timers I had did the same thing. Those timersr broke years ago and I know what they looked like, but not the brand, and I haven't found them on the web. I could maybe put in a neutral if I have to, but the house he rents iisnt't suitable for that. Thanks. Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9YUGU/...N=B000Q 9YUGU Thanks RBM (and thanks all). This one will be just fine. It's very much like the one I had first. Plus this pointed me to www.1000bubls.com which includes pdf manuals for this one, and a couple other Intermatic that I looked at. I'm confused by the ST01. http://www.1000bulbs.com/pdf/Inter-ST01C-Operating.pdf It says: Resistive (heater) 15 Amp, 120-277 VAC Tungsten (incandescent) 15 Amp @ 120 VAC, 6 Amp @ 208-277 VAC Ballast (fluorescent) 8 Amp @ 120 VAC, 4 Amp @ 208-277 VAC Motors 1 H.P. @ 120 VAC, 2 H.P. @ 240 VAC DC Loads 4 Amp @ 12 VDC, 2 Amp @ 28 VDC Does "Ballast (fluorescent)" include all fluroescent? Especiallly CFLs? It uses a battery like you said, so maybe that means it works in anything. From the installation pdf, you can see that it too only uses 2 wires (3 for 3-way.) Ballast includes all flourescent and vapour lamps with a ballast, including CFL. Thanks. Maybe this won't confuse me anymore. They are pretty much the "swiss army knife" of timers - work on ac or dc from pretty well o to 277 volts AC and 0 to 28 volts (and likely higher at very low current) dc. (likely 48 volts and 1 amp) Very good to know. BTW, these are for the ceiling lights, in one case a kitchen and the other case a dining room. Partly to give the houses a lived-in look when no one is home. Then you have found what you are looking for. I believe there is also a model with a "randomizer" that changes the on-off times by a few minutes to half an hour each cycle. |
#28
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 16:34:54 -0500, micky
wrote: Both my friend and I have the same problem, a wall switch box with only two wires and a ground entering the switch box. We both had 24-hour timers that worked fine; we both bought replacements to find that they need 3 wires, they need the neutral. There were no insturctions on the outside of the packaging. Do they still sell timers that need only two wires? Thanks for all the help on finding a swtich. Now my friend says his landlady doesn't want to spend 30 dollars for another switch, when she already bought one ( a 3-wire switch that needs a neutrral to power the ditgital timer, but the neutral is not at the swtich, only 2 wires and a ground are..) My friend tells me, We can connect the "neuttral" wire to the grounded metal box that the swtich is in. And I'm not sure how to convince him he's wrong. He says connecting to the ground is no worse than connecting it to the neutral, that it's just a tiny amount of current, that if the ground ever fails the timer will stop running, and if the switch ever shorts, ti will blow the fuse, just as if it were connected to the neutral. And finally that the ground and neutral are connected together at the fuse box anyhow . I haven't convinced him he's wrong, and in fact I fear he's starting to convince me he's right. |
#29
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2-wire in-walll timer -- still sold?
On Sun, 18 Dec 2011 09:18:49 -0500, micky
wrote: On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 16:34:54 -0500, micky wrote: Both my friend and I have the same problem, a wall switch box with only two wires and a ground entering the switch box. We both had 24-hour timers that worked fine; we both bought replacements to find that they need 3 wires, they need the neutral. There were no insturctions on the outside of the packaging. Do they still sell timers that need only two wires? Thanks for all the help on finding a swtich. Now my friend says his landlady doesn't want to spend 30 dollars for another switch, when she already bought one ( a 3-wire switch that needs a neutrral to power the ditgital timer, but the neutral is not at the swtich, only 2 wires and a ground are..) My friend tells me, We can connect the "neuttral" wire to the grounded metal box that the swtich is in. And I'm not sure how to convince him he's wrong. He says connecting to the ground is no worse than connecting it to the neutral, that it's just a tiny amount of current, that if the ground ever fails the timer will stop running, and if the switch ever shorts, ti will blow the fuse, just as if it were connected to the neutral. And finally that the ground and neutral are connected together at the fuse box anyhow . I haven't convinced him he's wrong, and in fact I fear he's starting to convince me he's right. He's right - it WILL work. But it is just plain WRONG to do it. |
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