Pre-existing home, Wisconsin basement, poured walls and floor, 6 years old.

Lots of rain the last week or two and the sump pump has been turning on
about every 3 minutes. Last night we had a power failure and the back-up
Generac didn't start and I assumed I'd have water in the basement, but bone
dry.

Here is what I found: The water pours into the crock when it is below the
inlet pipe, but once filled, never rises above it. I guess from a physics
standpoint that makes sense but, where is that water going if it's not being
pumped out? I have no clue about how the drain tiles etc are laid out.

There is a second sump pump in the same crock as a backup, but once the
inlet pipe is covered, the water never rises to a point where the 2nd pump
would kick in. Primary pump actually pumps into a sewer, secondary onto the
lawn, so it's not just a cycle of same water being pumped over and over,
since the secondary never kicks in.

Second problem which just started, the off switch is sticking on the pump
and it is still pumping, even when the crock is empty, or near empty, so
it's sucking water and air. The float seems unencumbered and it happens
maybe once every 40 cycles, but it is happening. I've reached into the
crock and just jiggled it and then it shuts off. Do I need a new pump?
Switch replaceable?

Existing home we purchased 6 months ago.
More crap to lose sleep over!!

On Sep 30, 3:30*pm, "Joe J" wrote:
Pre-existing home, Wisconsin basement, poured walls and floor, 6 years old.

Lots of rain the last week or two and the sump pump has been turning on
about every 3 minutes. *Last night we had a power failure and the back-up
Generac didn't start and I assumed I'd have water in the basement, but bone
dry.

Here is what I found: *The water pours into the crock when it is below the
inlet pipe, but once filled, never rises above it. *I guess from a physics
standpoint that makes sense but, where is that water going if it's not being
pumped out? *I have no clue about how the drain tiles etc are laid out.

There is a second sump pump in the same crock as a backup, but once the
inlet pipe is covered, the water never rises to a point where the 2nd pump
would kick in. *Primary pump actually pumps into a sewer, secondary onto the
lawn, so it's not just a cycle of same water being pumped over and over,
since the secondary never kicks in.

Second problem which just started, the off switch is sticking on the pump
and it is still pumping, even when the crock is empty, or near empty, so
it's sucking water and air. *The float seems unencumbered and it happens
maybe once every 40 cycles, but it is happening. *I've reached into the
crock and just jiggled it and then it shuts off. *Do I need a new pump?
Switch replaceable?

Existing home we purchased 6 months ago.
More crap to lose sleep over!!

You are lucky. As the water rises, the drain field is acting as a
resevoir (SP?). If it rains enough, the water will rise higher and
eventually flood if not pumped. Right now the water table is not too
high.

You have not said if the switch is a float tethered to the pump or the
kind where the float rises up and down on a rod/lever and that turns a
click type switch on. If it is a float tethered to the pump, you just
go buy a new switch, plug it into the wall and then plug the pump into
the switch. The pump itself sounds like it is working fine.

The generac is a totaly separate story and I will let someone else
advise you about that.

"hr(bob) " wrote in message
...
On Sep 30, 3:30 pm, "Joe J" wrote:


You have not said if the switch is a float tethered to the pump or the
kind where the float rises up and down on a rod/lever and that turns a
click type switch on. If it is a float tethered to the pump, you just
go buy a new switch, plug it into the wall and then plug the pump into
the switch. The pump itself sounds like it is working fine.

Looks like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

But I don't quite understand your replacement fix. Are you saying that
float is a stand-alone item I can buy?

Thanks,
Joe

On Sep 30, 4:38*pm, "Joe J" wrote:
"hr(bob) " wrote in message

...

On Sep 30, 3:30 pm, "Joe J" wrote:

You have not said if the switch is a float tethered to the pump or the
kind where the float rises up and down on a rod/lever and that turns a
click type switch on. *If it is a float tethered to the pump, you just
go buy a new switch, plug it into the wall and then plug the pump into
the switch. *The pump itself sounds like it is working fine.

Looks like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...ProductDisplay...

But I don't quite understand your replacement fix. *Are you saying that
float is a stand-alone item I can buy?

Thanks,
Joe

Your float switch is hard-wired into the pump. You can buy a separate
float/switch that plugs into the wall and then the permanently wired
on pump plugs into the switch. I don't have any photos handy. You
can buy one of those types of switches for under $20, but you will
have to go into you pump and bypass the present float/switch so the
pump is always on.

On Sep 30, 3:30*pm, "Joe J" wrote:
Pre-existing home, Wisconsin basement, poured walls and floor, 6 years old.

Lots of rain the last week or two and the sump pump has been turning on
about every 3 minutes. *Last night we had a power failure and the back-up
Generac didn't start and I assumed I'd have water in the basement, but bone
dry.

Here is what I found: *The water pours into the crock when it is below the
inlet pipe, but once filled, never rises above it. *I guess from a physics
standpoint that makes sense but, where is that water going if it's not being
pumped out? *I have no clue about how the drain tiles etc are laid out.

There is a second sump pump in the same crock as a backup, but once the
inlet pipe is covered, the water never rises to a point where the 2nd pump
would kick in. *Primary pump actually pumps into a sewer, secondary onto the
lawn, so it's not just a cycle of same water being pumped over and over,
since the secondary never kicks in.

Second problem which just started, the off switch is sticking on the pump
and it is still pumping, even when the crock is empty, or near empty, so
it's sucking water and air. *The float seems unencumbered and it happens
maybe once every 40 cycles, but it is happening. *I've reached into the
crock and just jiggled it and then it shuts off. *Do I need a new pump?
Switch replaceable?

Existing home we purchased 6 months ago.
More crap to lose sleep over!!

Ive got a 90 yr old house with drain tile, when the pump has failed it
takes a week to start leaking into the basement, in my case and maybe
yours the tile and pump system keep the table and pressure lower so it
takes time to cause issues. Id leave it off for awhile and monitor the
effects on your basement, if you can ask the seller about its
operation and why they put it in, maybe it just for major flooding and
you could cut back on pumping by adjusting the float.

"ransley" wrote in message
...
On Sep 30, 3:30 pm, "Joe J" wrote:
Pre-existing home, Wisconsin basement, poured walls and floor, 6 years
old.

Lots of rain the last week or two and the sump pump has been turning on
about every 3 minutes. Last night we had a power failure and the back-up
Generac didn't start and I assumed I'd have water in the basement, but
bone
dry.

Here is what I found: The water pours into the crock when it is below
the
inlet pipe, but once filled, never rises above it. I guess from a
physics
standpoint that makes sense but, where is that water going if it's not
being
pumped out? I have no clue about how the drain tiles etc are laid out.

There is a second sump pump in the same crock as a backup, but once the
inlet pipe is covered, the water never rises to a point where the 2nd
pump
would kick in. Primary pump actually pumps into a sewer, secondary onto
the
lawn, so it's not just a cycle of same water being pumped over and over,
since the secondary never kicks in.

Second problem which just started, the off switch is sticking on the pump
and it is still pumping, even when the crock is empty, or near empty, so
it's sucking water and air. The float seems unencumbered and it happens
maybe once every 40 cycles, but it is happening. I've reached into the
crock and just jiggled it and then it shuts off. Do I need a new pump?
Switch replaceable?

Existing home we purchased 6 months ago.
More crap to lose sleep over!!

Ive got a 90 yr old house with drain tile, when the pump has failed it
takes a week to start leaking into the basement, in my case and maybe
yours the tile and pump system keep the table and pressure lower so it
takes time to cause issues. Id leave it off for awhile and monitor the
effects on your basement, if you can ask the seller about its
operation and why they put it in, maybe it just for major flooding and
you could cut back on pumping by adjusting the float.

Wasn't a friendly sale and no info is coming from the seller. Been
established that it is a low lying area and in spring, or very heavy rains,
we get a lot of runoff. Pump didn't run for the last 3 months, but heavy,
recent rains changed that. And maybe that's why, didn't run for 3 months,
parts rusted, or just need exercise? Or?
I did find that I can find a float switch for $30, so first thing tomorrow,
heading off to Ace.
Hopefully, that takes care of the problem on the shut-off problem.

Joe J wrote:

"ransley" wrote in message
...
On Sep 30, 3:30 pm, "Joe J" wrote:
Pre-existing home, Wisconsin basement, poured walls and floor, 6
years old.

Lots of rain the last week or two and the sump pump has been turning on
about every 3 minutes. Last night we had a power failure and the
back-up
Generac didn't start and I assumed I'd have water in the basement,
but bone
dry.

Here is what I found: The water pours into the crock when it is
below the
inlet pipe, but once filled, never rises above it. I guess from a
physics
standpoint that makes sense but, where is that water going if it's
not being
pumped out? I have no clue about how the drain tiles etc are laid out.

There is a second sump pump in the same crock as a backup, but once the
inlet pipe is covered, the water never rises to a point where the 2nd
pump
would kick in. Primary pump actually pumps into a sewer, secondary
onto the
lawn, so it's not just a cycle of same water being pumped over and over,
since the secondary never kicks in.

Second problem which just started, the off switch is sticking on the
pump
and it is still pumping, even when the crock is empty, or near empty, so
it's sucking water and air. The float seems unencumbered and it happens
maybe once every 40 cycles, but it is happening. I've reached into the
crock and just jiggled it and then it shuts off. Do I need a new pump?
Switch replaceable?

Existing home we purchased 6 months ago.
More crap to lose sleep over!!

Ive got a 90 yr old house with drain tile, when the pump has failed it
takes a week to start leaking into the basement, in my case and maybe
yours the tile and pump system keep the table and pressure lower so it
takes time to cause issues. Id leave it off for awhile and monitor the
effects on your basement, if you can ask the seller about its
operation and why they put it in, maybe it just for major flooding and
you could cut back on pumping by adjusting the float.

Wasn't a friendly sale and no info is coming from the seller. Been
established that it is a low lying area and in spring, or very heavy
rains, we get a lot of runoff. Pump didn't run for the last 3 months,
but heavy, recent rains changed that. And maybe that's why, didn't run
for 3 months, parts rusted, or just need exercise? Or?
I did find that I can find a float switch for $30, so first thing
tomorrow, heading off to Ace.
Hopefully, that takes care of the problem on the shut-off problem.




I like this type,
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...2036_200352036

On Sep 30, 6:56*pm, Fatter Than Ever Moe HardTimes@TheFarm wrote:
Joe J wrote:

"ransley" wrote in message
....
On Sep 30, 3:30 pm, "Joe J" wrote:
Pre-existing home, Wisconsin basement, poured walls and floor, 6
years old.

Lots of rain the last week or two and the sump pump has been turning on
about every 3 minutes. *Last night we had a power failure and the
back-up
Generac didn't start and I assumed I'd have water in the basement,
but bone
dry.

Here is what I found: *The water pours into the crock when it is
below the
inlet pipe, but once filled, never rises above it. *I guess from a
physics
standpoint that makes sense but, where is that water going if it's
not being
pumped out? *I have no clue about how the drain tiles etc are laid out.

There is a second sump pump in the same crock as a backup, but once the
inlet pipe is covered, the water never rises to a point where the 2nd
pump
would kick in. *Primary pump actually pumps into a sewer, secondary
onto the
lawn, so it's not just a cycle of same water being pumped over and over,
since the secondary never kicks in.

Second problem which just started, the off switch is sticking on the
pump
and it is still pumping, even when the crock is empty, or near empty, so
it's sucking water and air. *The float seems unencumbered and it happens
maybe once every 40 cycles, but it is happening. *I've reached into the
crock and just jiggled it and then it shuts off. *Do I need a new pump?
Switch replaceable?

Existing home we purchased 6 months ago.
More crap to lose sleep over!!

Ive got a 90 yr old house with drain tile, when the pump has failed it
takes a week to start leaking into the basement, in my case and maybe
yours the tile and pump system keep the table and pressure lower so it
takes time to cause issues. Id leave it off for awhile and monitor the
effects on your basement, if you can ask the seller about its
operation and why they put it in, maybe it just for major flooding and
you could cut back on pumping by adjusting the float.

Wasn't a friendly sale and no info is coming from the seller. *Been
established that it is a low lying area and in spring, or very heavy
rains, we get a lot of runoff. *Pump didn't run for the last 3 months,
but heavy, recent rains changed that. *And maybe that's why, didn't run
for 3 months, parts rusted, or just need exercise? *Or?
I did find that I can find a float switch for $30, so first thing
tomorrow, heading off to Ace.
Hopefully, that takes care of the problem on the shut-off problem.

* I like this type,
*http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...036_200352036- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I have also had that kind of pedestal pump with external/exposed
switch, and they also sometimes fail to open or close, depending on
the phase of the moon, etc, so they aren't much, if any, better than
the direct float switch type of installation. The fact that you have
to have a cover with multiple holes for the pedestal type of pump was
my biggest problem, since it is in my shop, the floor is tilted toward
the sump, and every time I dropped something it would roll quite
rapidly toward the pump area. SInce most tools don't float, it was a
pain to retrieve anything that fell into the sump.

Joe J wrote:
Pre-existing home, Wisconsin basement, poured walls and floor, 6
years old.
Lots of rain the last week or two and the sump pump has been turning
on about every 3 minutes. Last night we had a power failure and the
back-up Generac didn't start and I assumed I'd have water in the
basement, but bone dry.

Here is what I found: The water pours into the crock when it is
below the inlet pipe, but once filled, never rises above it. I guess
from a physics standpoint that makes sense but, where is that water
going if it's not being pumped out? I have no clue about how the
drain tiles etc are laid out.

You can probably raise the level at which the pump turns on and off and save
some power. All it needs to do is keep the water table below the floor. It may
be that natural flows are carrying the water away at somewhat below the floor
level until the rain hits really hard.

On Sep 30, 10:51*pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Joe J wrote:
Pre-existing home, Wisconsin basement, poured walls and floor, 6
years old.
Lots of rain the last week or two and the sump pump has been turning
on about every 3 minutes. *Last night we had a power failure and the
back-up Generac didn't start and I assumed I'd have water in the
basement, but bone dry.

Here is what I found: *The water pours into the crock when it is
below the inlet pipe, but once filled, never rises above it. *I guess
from a physics standpoint that makes sense but, where is that water
going if it's not being pumped out? *I have no clue about how the
drain tiles etc are laid out.

You can probably raise the level at which the pump turns on and off and save
some power. All it needs to do is keep the water table below the floor. It may
be that natural flows are carrying the water away at somewhat below the floor
level until the rain hits really hard.

Agree that it's possible that raising the turn-on point for
the pump might result in it running less and still having
a dry basement. For example, if the natural water level
is just above the current float turn-on, it will run all the
time. But if you raise it by a couple inches, it will not
run at all, unless water starts arriving from a recent
rain, etc. The risk is that as you raise it you run some
risk that water may start to come it somewhere in
the basement, either now or with a future rain. The
consequences depend on if it's finished or what's
there on the floor. And you definitely want to keep
the water level well below the floor level.

For the sump pump switch, as others have said
you can either replace the switch on the current
pump if that;s possible by getting the correct one
or else use a seperately available one.

wrote in message
...
On Sep 30, 10:51 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Joe J wrote:
Pre-existing home, Wisconsin basement, poured walls and floor, 6
years old.
Lots of rain the last week or two and the sump pump has been turning
on about every 3 minutes. Last night we had a power failure and the
back-up Generac didn't start and I assumed I'd have water in the
basement, but bone dry.

Here is what I found: The water pours into the crock when it is
below the inlet pipe, but once filled, never rises above it. I guess
from a physics standpoint that makes sense but, where is that water
going if it's not being pumped out? I have no clue about how the
drain tiles etc are laid out.

You can probably raise the level at which the pump turns on and off and
save
some power. All it needs to do is keep the water table below the floor.
It may
be that natural flows are carrying the water away at somewhat below the
floor
level until the rain hits really hard.

Agree that it's possible that raising the turn-on point for
the pump might result in it running less and still having
a dry basement. For example, if the natural water level
is just above the current float turn-on, it will run all the
time. But if you raise it by a couple inches, it will not
run at all, unless water starts arriving from a recent
rain, etc. The risk is that as you raise it you run some
risk that water may start to come it somewhere in
the basement, either now or with a future rain. The
consequences depend on if it's finished or what's
there on the floor. And you definitely want to keep
the water level well below the floor level.

For the sump pump switch, as others have said
you can either replace the switch on the current
pump if that;s possible by getting the correct one
or else use a seperately available one.

Basement is 80% finished. family room, gym area, two extra bedrooms, all
carpeted, drywalled, baseboard etc. So the risk of water coming in scares
the hell out of me.

On Oct 1, 10:09*am, "Joe J" wrote:
wrote in message

...





On Sep 30, 10:51 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Joe J wrote:
Pre-existing home, Wisconsin basement, poured walls and floor, 6
years old.
Lots of rain the last week or two and the sump pump has been turning
on about every 3 minutes. *Last night we had a power failure and the
back-up Generac didn't start and I assumed I'd have water in the
basement, but bone dry.

Here is what I found: *The water pours into the crock when it is
below the inlet pipe, but once filled, never rises above it. *I guess
from a physics standpoint that makes sense but, where is that water
going if it's not being pumped out? *I have no clue about how the
drain tiles etc are laid out.

You can probably raise the level at which the pump turns on and off and
save
some power. All it needs to do is keep the water table below the floor..
It may
be that natural flows are carrying the water away at somewhat below the
floor
level until the rain hits really hard.

Agree that it's possible that raising the turn-on point for
the pump might result in it running less and still having
a dry basement. * For example, if the natural water level
is just above the current float turn-on, it will run all the
time. *But if you raise it by a couple inches, it will not
run at all, unless water starts arriving from a recent
rain, etc. *The risk is that as you raise it you run some
risk that water may start to come it somewhere in
the basement, either now or with a future rain. *The
consequences depend on if it's finished or what's
there on the floor. *And you definitely want to keep
the water level well below the floor level.

For the sump pump switch, as others have said
you can either replace the switch on the current
pump if that;s possible by getting the correct one
or else use a seperately available one.

Basement is 80% finished. *family room, gym area, two extra bedrooms, all
carpeted, drywalled, baseboard etc. *So the risk of water coming in scares
the hell out of me.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I would try raising the float turn-on point about one inch and wait to
see what happens. Do that repeatedly until the pump does not turn on
in normal weather. The chances of getting a wet floor are not
increased if you raise the float unless the pump actually fails to
turn on, or unless the water level is within a couple of inches of the
floor level. Then you will get dampness, but no actual water. This
assumes that the perimiter floor drainage system is not blocked so
that the water level is equal in all parts of the drainage system and
in the sump itself.

"hr(bob) " wrote in message
...
On Oct 1, 10:09 am, "Joe J" wrote:
wrote in message

...





On Sep 30, 10:51 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Joe J wrote:
Pre-existing home, Wisconsin basement, poured walls and floor, 6
years old.
Lots of rain the last week or two and the sump pump has been turning
on about every 3 minutes. Last night we had a power failure and the
back-up Generac didn't start and I assumed I'd have water in the
basement, but bone dry.

Here is what I found: The water pours into the crock when it is
below the inlet pipe, but once filled, never rises above it. I
guess
from a physics standpoint that makes sense but, where is that water
going if it's not being pumped out? I have no clue about how the
drain tiles etc are laid out.

You can probably raise the level at which the pump turns on and off
and
save
some power. All it needs to do is keep the water table below the
floor.
It may
be that natural flows are carrying the water away at somewhat below
the
floor
level until the rain hits really hard.

Agree that it's possible that raising the turn-on point for
the pump might result in it running less and still having
a dry basement. For example, if the natural water level
is just above the current float turn-on, it will run all the
time. But if you raise it by a couple inches, it will not
run at all, unless water starts arriving from a recent
rain, etc. The risk is that as you raise it you run some
risk that water may start to come it somewhere in
the basement, either now or with a future rain. The
consequences depend on if it's finished or what's
there on the floor. And you definitely want to keep
the water level well below the floor level.

For the sump pump switch, as others have said
you can either replace the switch on the current
pump if that;s possible by getting the correct one
or else use a seperately available one.

Basement is 80% finished. family room, gym area, two extra bedrooms, all
carpeted, drywalled, baseboard etc. So the risk of water coming in
scares
the hell out of me.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I would try raising the float turn-on point about one inch and wait to
see what happens. Do that repeatedly until the pump does not turn on
in normal weather. The chances of getting a wet floor are not
increased if you raise the float unless the pump actually fails to
turn on, or unless the water level is within a couple of inches of the
floor level. Then you will get dampness, but no actual water. This
assumes that the perimiter floor drainage system is not blocked so
that the water level is equal in all parts of the drainage system and
in the sump itself.

So how do you raise the point where the float kicks in? This is not a
vertical rod, float sump, but the floating bulb kind. I'm guessing I
unscrew the clamp point and lengthen the cable an inch or so, right?

But then back to one of my original questions...when the pump empties the
crock, water refills at a high rate. If I lengthen the float and the pump
runs less, where is that water going to go?

Sorry if these are stupid questions but we recently moved here from the
deserts of Nevada. No sump pump worries there.

On Oct 1, 6:57*pm, "Joe J" wrote:
"hr(bob) " wrote in message

...





On Oct 1, 10:09 am, "Joe J" wrote:
wrote in message

....

On Sep 30, 10:51 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Joe J wrote:
Pre-existing home, Wisconsin basement, poured walls and floor, 6
years old.
Lots of rain the last week or two and the sump pump has been turning
on about every 3 minutes. *Last night we had a power failure and the
back-up Generac didn't start and I assumed I'd have water in the
basement, but bone dry.

Here is what I found: *The water pours into the crock when it is
below the inlet pipe, but once filled, never rises above it. *I
guess
from a physics standpoint that makes sense but, where is that water
going if it's not being pumped out? *I have no clue about how the
drain tiles etc are laid out.

You can probably raise the level at which the pump turns on and off
and
save
some power. All it needs to do is keep the water table below the
floor.
It may
be that natural flows are carrying the water away at somewhat below
the
floor
level until the rain hits really hard.

Agree that it's possible that raising the turn-on point for
the pump might result in it running less and still having
a dry basement. * For example, if the natural water level
is just above the current float turn-on, it will run all the
time. *But if you raise it by a couple inches, it will not
run at all, unless water starts arriving from a recent
rain, etc. *The risk is that as you raise it you run some
risk that water may start to come it somewhere in
the basement, either now or with a future rain. *The
consequences depend on if it's finished or what's
there on the floor. *And you definitely want to keep
the water level well below the floor level.

For the sump pump switch, as others have said
you can either replace the switch on the current
pump if that;s possible by getting the correct one
or else use a seperately available one.

Basement is 80% finished. *family room, gym area, two extra bedrooms, all
carpeted, drywalled, baseboard etc. *So the risk of water coming in
scares
the hell out of me.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I would try raising the float turn-on point about one inch and wait to
see what happens. Do that repeatedly until the pump does not turn on
in normal weather. *The chances of getting a wet floor are not
increased if you raise the float unless the pump actually fails to
turn on, or unless the water level is within a couple of inches of the
floor level. *Then you will get dampness, but no actual water. *This
assumes that the perimiter floor drainage system is not blocked so
that the water level is equal in all parts of the drainage system and
in the sump itself.

So how do you raise the point where the float kicks in? *This is not a
vertical rod, float sump, but the floating bulb kind. *I'm guessing I
unscrew the clamp point and lengthen the cable an inch or so, right?

But then back to one of my original questions...when the pump empties the
crock, water refills at a high rate. *If I lengthen the float and the pump
runs less, where is that water going to go?

Sorry if these are stupid questions but we recently moved here from the
deserts of Nevada. *No sump pump worries there.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

is your homes basement above the level of the surrounding area like
the street?

if so let gravity do the job its highly reliable and isnt prone to
power outages and breakdowns

"bob haller" wrote in message
...
On Oct 1, 6:57 pm, "Joe J" wrote:
"hr(bob) " wrote in message

...





On Oct 1, 10:09 am, "Joe J" wrote:
wrote in message

...

On Sep 30, 10:51 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Joe J wrote:
Pre-existing home, Wisconsin basement, poured walls and floor, 6
years old.
Lots of rain the last week or two and the sump pump has been
turning
on about every 3 minutes. Last night we had a power failure and
the
back-up Generac didn't start and I assumed I'd have water in the
basement, but bone dry.

Here is what I found: The water pours into the crock when it is
below the inlet pipe, but once filled, never rises above it. I
guess
from a physics standpoint that makes sense but, where is that
water
going if it's not being pumped out? I have no clue about how the
drain tiles etc are laid out.

You can probably raise the level at which the pump turns on and off
and
save
some power. All it needs to do is keep the water table below the
floor.
It may
be that natural flows are carrying the water away at somewhat below
the
floor
level until the rain hits really hard.

Agree that it's possible that raising the turn-on point for
the pump might result in it running less and still having
a dry basement. For example, if the natural water level
is just above the current float turn-on, it will run all the
time. But if you raise it by a couple inches, it will not
run at all, unless water starts arriving from a recent
rain, etc. The risk is that as you raise it you run some
risk that water may start to come it somewhere in
the basement, either now or with a future rain. The
consequences depend on if it's finished or what's
there on the floor. And you definitely want to keep
the water level well below the floor level.

For the sump pump switch, as others have said
you can either replace the switch on the current
pump if that;s possible by getting the correct one
or else use a seperately available one.

Basement is 80% finished. family room, gym area, two extra bedrooms,
all
carpeted, drywalled, baseboard etc. So the risk of water coming in
scares
the hell out of me.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I would try raising the float turn-on point about one inch and wait to
see what happens. Do that repeatedly until the pump does not turn on
in normal weather. The chances of getting a wet floor are not
increased if you raise the float unless the pump actually fails to
turn on, or unless the water level is within a couple of inches of the
floor level. Then you will get dampness, but no actual water. This
assumes that the perimiter floor drainage system is not blocked so
that the water level is equal in all parts of the drainage system and
in the sump itself.

So how do you raise the point where the float kicks in? This is not a
vertical rod, float sump, but the floating bulb kind. I'm guessing I
unscrew the clamp point and lengthen the cable an inch or so, right?

But then back to one of my original questions...when the pump empties the
crock, water refills at a high rate. If I lengthen the float and the
pump
runs less, where is that water going to go?

Sorry if these are stupid questions but we recently moved here from the
deserts of Nevada. No sump pump worries there.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

is your homes basement above the level of the surrounding area like
the street?

if so let gravity do the job its highly reliable and isnt prone to
power outages and breakdowns

No, it's a basement so of course it is below street level.

On Sat, 1 Oct 2011 23:41:21 -0500, "Joe J" wrote:


"bob haller" wrote in message
...
On Oct 1, 6:57 pm, "Joe J" wrote:
"hr(bob) " wrote in message

...





On Oct 1, 10:09 am, "Joe J" wrote:
wrote in message

...

On Sep 30, 10:51 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Joe J wrote:
Pre-existing home, Wisconsin basement, poured walls and floor, 6
years old.
Lots of rain the last week or two and the sump pump has been
turning
on about every 3 minutes. Last night we had a power failure and
the
back-up Generac didn't start and I assumed I'd have water in the
basement, but bone dry.

Here is what I found: The water pours into the crock when it is
below the inlet pipe, but once filled, never rises above it. I
guess
from a physics standpoint that makes sense but, where is that
water
going if it's not being pumped out? I have no clue about how the
drain tiles etc are laid out.

You can probably raise the level at which the pump turns on and off
and
save
some power. All it needs to do is keep the water table below the
floor.
It may
be that natural flows are carrying the water away at somewhat below
the
floor
level until the rain hits really hard.

Agree that it's possible that raising the turn-on point for
the pump might result in it running less and still having
a dry basement. For example, if the natural water level
is just above the current float turn-on, it will run all the
time. But if you raise it by a couple inches, it will not
run at all, unless water starts arriving from a recent
rain, etc. The risk is that as you raise it you run some
risk that water may start to come it somewhere in
the basement, either now or with a future rain. The
consequences depend on if it's finished or what's
there on the floor. And you definitely want to keep
the water level well below the floor level.

For the sump pump switch, as others have said
you can either replace the switch on the current
pump if that;s possible by getting the correct one
or else use a seperately available one.

Basement is 80% finished. family room, gym area, two extra bedrooms,
all
carpeted, drywalled, baseboard etc. So the risk of water coming in
scares
the hell out of me.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I would try raising the float turn-on point about one inch and wait to
see what happens. Do that repeatedly until the pump does not turn on
in normal weather. The chances of getting a wet floor are not
increased if you raise the float unless the pump actually fails to
turn on, or unless the water level is within a couple of inches of the
floor level. Then you will get dampness, but no actual water. This
assumes that the perimiter floor drainage system is not blocked so
that the water level is equal in all parts of the drainage system and
in the sump itself.

So how do you raise the point where the float kicks in? This is not a
vertical rod, float sump, but the floating bulb kind. I'm guessing I
unscrew the clamp point and lengthen the cable an inch or so, right?

But then back to one of my original questions...when the pump empties the
crock, water refills at a high rate. If I lengthen the float and the
pump
runs less, where is that water going to go?

Sorry if these are stupid questions but we recently moved here from the
deserts of Nevada. No sump pump worries there.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

is your homes basement above the level of the surrounding area like
the street?

if so let gravity do the job its highly reliable and isnt prone to
power outages and breakdowns

No, it's a basement so of course it is below street level.

The basement floor of my last two houses was above street level.

wrote in message
news
On Sat, 1 Oct 2011 23:41:21 -0500, "Joe J" wrote:


"bob haller" wrote in message
...
On Oct 1, 6:57 pm, "Joe J" wrote:
"hr(bob) " wrote in message

...





On Oct 1, 10:09 am, "Joe J" wrote:
wrote in message

...

On Sep 30, 10:51 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Joe J wrote:
Pre-existing home, Wisconsin basement, poured walls and floor,
6
years old.
Lots of rain the last week or two and the sump pump has been
turning
on about every 3 minutes. Last night we had a power failure
and
the
back-up Generac didn't start and I assumed I'd have water in
the
basement, but bone dry.

Here is what I found: The water pours into the crock when it
is
below the inlet pipe, but once filled, never rises above it. I
guess
from a physics standpoint that makes sense but, where is that
water
going if it's not being pumped out? I have no clue about how
the
drain tiles etc are laid out.

You can probably raise the level at which the pump turns on and
off
and
save
some power. All it needs to do is keep the water table below the
floor.
It may
be that natural flows are carrying the water away at somewhat
below
the
floor
level until the rain hits really hard.

Agree that it's possible that raising the turn-on point for
the pump might result in it running less and still having
a dry basement. For example, if the natural water level
is just above the current float turn-on, it will run all the
time. But if you raise it by a couple inches, it will not
run at all, unless water starts arriving from a recent
rain, etc. The risk is that as you raise it you run some
risk that water may start to come it somewhere in
the basement, either now or with a future rain. The
consequences depend on if it's finished or what's
there on the floor. And you definitely want to keep
the water level well below the floor level.

For the sump pump switch, as others have said
you can either replace the switch on the current
pump if that;s possible by getting the correct one
or else use a seperately available one.

Basement is 80% finished. family room, gym area, two extra
bedrooms,
all
carpeted, drywalled, baseboard etc. So the risk of water coming in
scares
the hell out of me.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I would try raising the float turn-on point about one inch and wait
to
see what happens. Do that repeatedly until the pump does not turn on
in normal weather. The chances of getting a wet floor are not
increased if you raise the float unless the pump actually fails to
turn on, or unless the water level is within a couple of inches of
the
floor level. Then you will get dampness, but no actual water. This
assumes that the perimiter floor drainage system is not blocked so
that the water level is equal in all parts of the drainage system and
in the sump itself.

So how do you raise the point where the float kicks in? This is not a
vertical rod, float sump, but the floating bulb kind. I'm guessing I
unscrew the clamp point and lengthen the cable an inch or so, right?

But then back to one of my original questions...when the pump empties
the
crock, water refills at a high rate. If I lengthen the float and the
pump
runs less, where is that water going to go?

Sorry if these are stupid questions but we recently moved here from the
deserts of Nevada. No sump pump worries there.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

is your homes basement above the level of the surrounding area like
the street?

if so let gravity do the job its highly reliable and isnt prone to
power outages and breakdowns

No, it's a basement so of course it is below street level.

The basement floor of my last two houses was above street level.


Well not in this case.

On Oct 2, 1:48*am, "Joe J" wrote:
wrote in message

news




On Sat, 1 Oct 2011 23:41:21 -0500, "Joe J" wrote:

"bob haller" wrote in message
....
On Oct 1, 6:57 pm, "Joe J" wrote:
"hr(bob) " wrote in message

...

On Oct 1, 10:09 am, "Joe J" wrote:
wrote in message

...

On Sep 30, 10:51 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Joe J wrote:
Pre-existing home, Wisconsin basement, poured walls and floor,
6
years old.
Lots of rain the last week or two and the sump pump has been
turning
on about every 3 minutes. *Last night we had a power failure
and
the
back-up Generac didn't start and I assumed I'd have water in
the
basement, but bone dry.

Here is what I found: *The water pours into the crock when it
is
below the inlet pipe, but once filled, never rises above it. *I
guess
from a physics standpoint that makes sense but, where is that
water
going if it's not being pumped out? *I have no clue about how
the
drain tiles etc are laid out.

You can probably raise the level at which the pump turns on and
off
and
save
some power. All it needs to do is keep the water table below the
floor.
It may
be that natural flows are carrying the water away at somewhat
below
the
floor
level until the rain hits really hard.

Agree that it's possible that raising the turn-on point for
the pump might result in it running less and still having
a dry basement. * For example, if the natural water level
is just above the current float turn-on, it will run all the
time. *But if you raise it by a couple inches, it will not
run at all, unless water starts arriving from a recent
rain, etc. *The risk is that as you raise it you run some
risk that water may start to come it somewhere in
the basement, either now or with a future rain. *The
consequences depend on if it's finished or what's
there on the floor. *And you definitely want to keep
the water level well below the floor level.

For the sump pump switch, as others have said
you can either replace the switch on the current
pump if that;s possible by getting the correct one
or else use a seperately available one.

Basement is 80% finished. *family room, gym area, two extra
bedrooms,
all
carpeted, drywalled, baseboard etc. *So the risk of water coming in
scares
the hell out of me.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I would try raising the float turn-on point about one inch and wait
to
see what happens. Do that repeatedly until the pump does not turn on
in normal weather. *The chances of getting a wet floor are not
increased if you raise the float unless the pump actually fails to
turn on, or unless the water level is within a couple of inches of
the
floor level. *Then you will get dampness, but no actual water. *This
assumes that the perimiter floor drainage system is not blocked so
that the water level is equal in all parts of the drainage system and
in the sump itself.

So how do you raise the point where the float kicks in? *This is not a
vertical rod, float sump, but the floating bulb kind. *I'm guessing I
unscrew the clamp point and lengthen the cable an inch or so, right?

But then back to one of my original questions...when the pump empties
the
crock, water refills at a high rate. *If I lengthen the float and the
pump
runs less, where is that water going to go?

Sorry if these are stupid questions but we recently moved here from the
deserts of Nevada. *No sump pump worries there.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

is your homes basement above the level of the surrounding area like
the street?

if so let gravity do the job its highly reliable and isnt prone to
power outages and breakdowns

No, it's a basement so of course it is below street level.

The basement floor of my last two houses was above street level.

Well not in this case.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

dig a much deeper sump pump pit, like twice as deep, and add a 2nd
totally seperate backup pumb.

one down low and one higher up, to give you the capacity no matter how
bad the storm.

also look into the possiblity your sewer line may be leaking adding
excess water to the sump system, you might have a clogged sewer line.

this happened here on one hot dry summer day i found the sump pump
running, traced it to a backed up sewer line, pretty easy espically
with terracotta pipe

On Oct 1, 6:57*pm, "Joe J" wrote:
"hr(bob) " wrote in message

...





On Oct 1, 10:09 am, "Joe J" wrote:
wrote in message

....

On Sep 30, 10:51 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Joe J wrote:
Pre-existing home, Wisconsin basement, poured walls and floor, 6
years old.
Lots of rain the last week or two and the sump pump has been turning
on about every 3 minutes. *Last night we had a power failure and the
back-up Generac didn't start and I assumed I'd have water in the
basement, but bone dry.

Here is what I found: *The water pours into the crock when it is
below the inlet pipe, but once filled, never rises above it. *I
guess
from a physics standpoint that makes sense but, where is that water
going if it's not being pumped out? *I have no clue about how the
drain tiles etc are laid out.

You can probably raise the level at which the pump turns on and off
and
save
some power. All it needs to do is keep the water table below the
floor.
It may
be that natural flows are carrying the water away at somewhat below
the
floor
level until the rain hits really hard.

Agree that it's possible that raising the turn-on point for
the pump might result in it running less and still having
a dry basement. * For example, if the natural water level
is just above the current float turn-on, it will run all the
time. *But if you raise it by a couple inches, it will not
run at all, unless water starts arriving from a recent
rain, etc. *The risk is that as you raise it you run some
risk that water may start to come it somewhere in
the basement, either now or with a future rain. *The
consequences depend on if it's finished or what's
there on the floor. *And you definitely want to keep
the water level well below the floor level.

For the sump pump switch, as others have said
you can either replace the switch on the current
pump if that;s possible by getting the correct one
or else use a seperately available one.

Basement is 80% finished. *family room, gym area, two extra bedrooms, all
carpeted, drywalled, baseboard etc. *So the risk of water coming in
scares
the hell out of me.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I would try raising the float turn-on point about one inch and wait to
see what happens. Do that repeatedly until the pump does not turn on
in normal weather. *The chances of getting a wet floor are not
increased if you raise the float unless the pump actually fails to
turn on, or unless the water level is within a couple of inches of the
floor level. *Then you will get dampness, but no actual water. *This
assumes that the perimiter floor drainage system is not blocked so
that the water level is equal in all parts of the drainage system and
in the sump itself.

So how do you raise the point where the float kicks in? *This is not a
vertical rod, float sump, but the floating bulb kind. *I'm guessing I
unscrew the clamp point and lengthen the cable an inch or so, right?

But then back to one of my original questions...when the pump empties the
crock, water refills at a high rate. *If I lengthen the float and the pump
runs less, where is that water going to go?

Look at it this way. Let's say you go outside and dig a
hole in the ground. You go down 3ft, 5ft, 7ft, etc. No
water. Finally you get to some point, let's say 12 ft
and now there is an inch of water in the hole. If you
put a pump in that inch of water it will pump, refill,
pump.... If you put the pump an inch higher, the hole
will have 1" of water in it and just sit there. The same
applies to your sump pump situation. If the natural
water level is near the bottom of the sump pit most of
the time and you
have the pump set to go on at that point, it will cycle
the pump all the time. But if you can raise the pump
turn-on 6 inchs it will not turn on unless the water
level rises due to rain.

The issue with raising it is the higher your raise it the
more risk you run of some water showing up somewhere
in the basement.


Sorry if these are stupid questions but we recently moved here from the
deserts of Nevada. *No sump pump worries there.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Found a universal tethered float switch at Ace ($29) and that did the trick.
Beats replacing the entire pump. Couldn't get the screw out holding the old
switch, so the new switch is installed with cable ties strapped to the pipe,
but it works.
Thanks all!

On Oct 2, 10:17*am, "Joe J" wrote:
Found a universal tethered float switch at Ace ($29) and that did the trick.
Beats replacing the entire pump. *Couldn't get the screw out holding the old
switch, so the new switch is installed with cable ties strapped to the pipe,
but it works.
Thanks all!

for any sump pump....

it's a good idea to manually lift the float switch say once a month
and make sure the motor runs....

the bearings can start to seize up if the motor is not run
periodically.


Mark

On Sat, 1 Oct 2011 23:41:21 -0500, "Joe J" wrote:


"bob haller" wrote in message
...
On Oct 1, 6:57 pm, "Joe J" wrote:
"hr(bob) " wrote in message

...





On Oct 1, 10:09 am, "Joe J" wrote:
wrote in message

...

On Sep 30, 10:51 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Joe J wrote:
Pre-existing home, Wisconsin basement, poured walls and floor, 6
years old.
Lots of rain the last week or two and the sump pump has been
turning
on about every 3 minutes. Last night we had a power failure and
the
back-up Generac didn't start and I assumed I'd have water in the
basement, but bone dry.

Here is what I found: The water pours into the crock when it is
below the inlet pipe, but once filled, never rises above it. I
guess
from a physics standpoint that makes sense but, where is that
water
going if it's not being pumped out? I have no clue about how the
drain tiles etc are laid out.

You can probably raise the level at which the pump turns on and off
and
save
some power. All it needs to do is keep the water table below the
floor.
It may
be that natural flows are carrying the water away at somewhat below
the
floor
level until the rain hits really hard.

Agree that it's possible that raising the turn-on point for
the pump might result in it running less and still having
a dry basement. For example, if the natural water level
is just above the current float turn-on, it will run all the
time. But if you raise it by a couple inches, it will not
run at all, unless water starts arriving from a recent
rain, etc. The risk is that as you raise it you run some
risk that water may start to come it somewhere in
the basement, either now or with a future rain. The
consequences depend on if it's finished or what's
there on the floor. And you definitely want to keep
the water level well below the floor level.

For the sump pump switch, as others have said
you can either replace the switch on the current
pump if that;s possible by getting the correct one
or else use a seperately available one.

Basement is 80% finished. family room, gym area, two extra bedrooms,
all
carpeted, drywalled, baseboard etc. So the risk of water coming in
scares
the hell out of me.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I would try raising the float turn-on point about one inch and wait to
see what happens. Do that repeatedly until the pump does not turn on
in normal weather. The chances of getting a wet floor are not
increased if you raise the float unless the pump actually fails to
turn on, or unless the water level is within a couple of inches of the
floor level. Then you will get dampness, but no actual water. This
assumes that the perimiter floor drainage system is not blocked so
that the water level is equal in all parts of the drainage system and
in the sump itself.

So how do you raise the point where the float kicks in? This is not a
vertical rod, float sump, but the floating bulb kind. I'm guessing I
unscrew the clamp point and lengthen the cable an inch or so, right?

But then back to one of my original questions...when the pump empties the
crock, water refills at a high rate. If I lengthen the float and the
pump
runs less, where is that water going to go?

Sorry if these are stupid questions but we recently moved here from the
deserts of Nevada. No sump pump worries there.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

is your homes basement above the level of the surrounding area like
the street?

if so let gravity do the job its highly reliable and isnt prone to
power outages and breakdowns

No, it's a basement so of course it is below street level.
I can envision SOME cercumstances where the basement floor, although
under ground, is still higher than the street sewer -
That said - when looking for a new house I looked for one that did NOT
NEED a sump pump because it was at a higher elevation than the
surrounding land and in well drained SAND. It would take a 200 year
storm for there to be any danger of flooding my basement from anything
but a sanitary sewer backup.

On Sun, 2 Oct 2011 00:48:13 -0500, "Joe J" wrote:


wrote in message
news
On Sat, 1 Oct 2011 23:41:21 -0500, "Joe J" wrote:


"bob haller" wrote in message
...
On Oct 1, 6:57 pm, "Joe J" wrote:
"hr(bob) " wrote in message

...





On Oct 1, 10:09 am, "Joe J" wrote:
wrote in message

...

On Sep 30, 10:51 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Joe J wrote:
Pre-existing home, Wisconsin basement, poured walls and floor,
6
years old.
Lots of rain the last week or two and the sump pump has been
turning
on about every 3 minutes. Last night we had a power failure
and
the
back-up Generac didn't start and I assumed I'd have water in
the
basement, but bone dry.

Here is what I found: The water pours into the crock when it
is
below the inlet pipe, but once filled, never rises above it. I
guess
from a physics standpoint that makes sense but, where is that
water
going if it's not being pumped out? I have no clue about how
the
drain tiles etc are laid out.

You can probably raise the level at which the pump turns on and
off
and
save
some power. All it needs to do is keep the water table below the
floor.
It may
be that natural flows are carrying the water away at somewhat
below
the
floor
level until the rain hits really hard.

Agree that it's possible that raising the turn-on point for
the pump might result in it running less and still having
a dry basement. For example, if the natural water level
is just above the current float turn-on, it will run all the
time. But if you raise it by a couple inches, it will not
run at all, unless water starts arriving from a recent
rain, etc. The risk is that as you raise it you run some
risk that water may start to come it somewhere in
the basement, either now or with a future rain. The
consequences depend on if it's finished or what's
there on the floor. And you definitely want to keep
the water level well below the floor level.

For the sump pump switch, as others have said
you can either replace the switch on the current
pump if that;s possible by getting the correct one
or else use a seperately available one.

Basement is 80% finished. family room, gym area, two extra
bedrooms,
all
carpeted, drywalled, baseboard etc. So the risk of water coming in
scares
the hell out of me.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I would try raising the float turn-on point about one inch and wait
to
see what happens. Do that repeatedly until the pump does not turn on
in normal weather. The chances of getting a wet floor are not
increased if you raise the float unless the pump actually fails to
turn on, or unless the water level is within a couple of inches of
the
floor level. Then you will get dampness, but no actual water. This
assumes that the perimiter floor drainage system is not blocked so
that the water level is equal in all parts of the drainage system and
in the sump itself.

So how do you raise the point where the float kicks in? This is not a
vertical rod, float sump, but the floating bulb kind. I'm guessing I
unscrew the clamp point and lengthen the cable an inch or so, right?

But then back to one of my original questions...when the pump empties
the
crock, water refills at a high rate. If I lengthen the float and the
pump
runs less, where is that water going to go?

Sorry if these are stupid questions but we recently moved here from the
deserts of Nevada. No sump pump worries there.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

is your homes basement above the level of the surrounding area like
the street?

if so let gravity do the job its highly reliable and isnt prone to
power outages and breakdowns

No, it's a basement so of course it is below street level.

The basement floor of my last two houses was above street level.


Well not in this case.

The point being that your "it's a basement so of course it is below street
level" is nonsense. One does *not* imply the other.

You might want to consider a water powered back-up pump in the event
you have no power.

http://www.simsupply.com/p-24936-back-up-sump-pump.aspx

I put one of these in a couple of days before Hurricane Irene hit, and
it saved my basement when my power went out.

That advice applies to most devices, people, and everything.
Item which isn't used once a month or more, stops working.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Mark" wrote in message
...

it's a good idea to manually lift the float switch say once
a month
and make sure the motor runs....

the bearings can start to seize up if the motor is not run
periodically.


Mark

On 10/3/2011 8:32 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
That advice applies to most devices, people, and everything.
Item which isn't used once a month or more, stops working.


Is that why, in pre-internet days, skin magazines came out monthly?
(ducks and runs....)

--
aem sends...

I was going to mention prostate gland, but chose not to. Now
days, in many families, it's hard to get the jerk off the
computer.

Wife: "Hey, you stupid jerk! Off the computer!"

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
On 10/3/2011 8:32 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
That advice applies to most devices, people, and
everything.
Item which isn't used once a month or more, stops working.


Is that why, in pre-internet days, skin magazines came out
monthly?
(ducks and runs....)

--
aem sends...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
I was going to mention prostate gland, but chose not to. Now
days, in many families, it's hard to get the jerk off the
computer.

Wife: "Hey, you stupid jerk! Off the computer!"

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
On 10/3/2011 8:32 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
That advice applies to most devices, people, and
everything.
Item which isn't used once a month or more, stops working.


Is that why, in pre-internet days, skin magazines came out
monthly?
(ducks and runs....)

--
aem sends...



And now the thread drifts...SQUIRREL!

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
You might want to consider a water powered back-up pump in the event
you have no power.

http://www.simsupply.com/p-24936-back-up-sump-pump.aspx

I put one of these in a couple of days before Hurricane Irene hit, and
it saved my basement when my power went out.

House came with a Generac 17 KW generator, so I'm good there. And we're on
a well, so no help but thanks for the suggestion.

On Oct 2, 12:41*am, "Joe J" wrote:
"bob haller" wrote in message

...









On Oct 1, 6:57 pm, "Joe J" wrote:
"hr(bob) " wrote in message

....

On Oct 1, 10:09 am, "Joe J" wrote:
wrote in message

...

On Sep 30, 10:51 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Joe J wrote:
Pre-existing home, Wisconsin basement, poured walls and floor, 6
years old.
Lots of rain the last week or two and the sump pump has been
turning
on about every 3 minutes. *Last night we had a power failure and
the
back-up Generac didn't start and I assumed I'd have water in the
basement, but bone dry.

Here is what I found: *The water pours into the crock when it is
below the inlet pipe, but once filled, never rises above it. *I
guess
from a physics standpoint that makes sense but, where is that
water
going if it's not being pumped out? *I have no clue about how the
drain tiles etc are laid out.

You can probably raise the level at which the pump turns on and off
and
save
some power. All it needs to do is keep the water table below the
floor.
It may
be that natural flows are carrying the water away at somewhat below
the
floor
level until the rain hits really hard.

Agree that it's possible that raising the turn-on point for
the pump might result in it running less and still having
a dry basement. * For example, if the natural water level
is just above the current float turn-on, it will run all the
time. *But if you raise it by a couple inches, it will not
run at all, unless water starts arriving from a recent
rain, etc. *The risk is that as you raise it you run some
risk that water may start to come it somewhere in
the basement, either now or with a future rain. *The
consequences depend on if it's finished or what's
there on the floor. *And you definitely want to keep
the water level well below the floor level.

For the sump pump switch, as others have said
you can either replace the switch on the current
pump if that;s possible by getting the correct one
or else use a seperately available one.

Basement is 80% finished. *family room, gym area, two extra bedrooms,
all
carpeted, drywalled, baseboard etc. *So the risk of water coming in
scares
the hell out of me.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I would try raising the float turn-on point about one inch and wait to
see what happens. Do that repeatedly until the pump does not turn on
in normal weather. *The chances of getting a wet floor are not
increased if you raise the float unless the pump actually fails to
turn on, or unless the water level is within a couple of inches of the
floor level. *Then you will get dampness, but no actual water. *This
assumes that the perimiter floor drainage system is not blocked so
that the water level is equal in all parts of the drainage system and
in the sump itself.

So how do you raise the point where the float kicks in? *This is not a
vertical rod, float sump, but the floating bulb kind. *I'm guessing I
unscrew the clamp point and lengthen the cable an inch or so, right?

But then back to one of my original questions...when the pump empties the
crock, water refills at a high rate. *If I lengthen the float and the
pump
runs less, where is that water going to go?

Sorry if these are stupid questions but we recently moved here from the
deserts of Nevada. *No sump pump worries there.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

is your homes basement above the level of the surrounding area like
the street?

if so let gravity do the job its highly reliable and isnt prone to
power outages and breakdowns

No, it's a basement so of course it is below street level.

My basement IS above street level. Have sump, dont need a pump.

Jimmie

On Oct 3, 8:32*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
That advice applies to most devices, people, and everything.
Item which isn't used once a month or more, stops working.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Mark" wrote in message

...

it's a good idea to manually lift the float switch say once
a month
and make sure the motor runs....

the bearings can start to seize up *if the motor is not run
periodically.

Mark

One of the things our sump pump at work has that I really like is an
indicator that comes on and lets you know that it has run. The circuit
works with a mechanical latch so it doesn't reset if power goes off.
This was a locally built device and I don't know if anything similar
is available on the market. It a relay that pulls in when the pump
comes on. When the relay armature pulls in it allows a leaf spring to
pop into place and hold the armature down until the spring is manually
reset. Sump is in the bottom of the elevator shaft.

Jimmie

Yes, now it takes a sharp turn. BTW, birds in the satelite
dish shut down my church's receiver, the maint group cleared
out the nest, Friday AM. Sunday AM, I see birds there again.
Got to get some nylon mesh, not aluminum (which blocks RF)
mesh.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Joe J" wrote in message
...

And now the thread drifts...SQUIRREL!

My Dad had water in the cellar a couple times. I bought a
1/2 HP sump from HF, and 75 foot of hose. Must have helped,
he hasn't needed the pump since then. I did use it one time,
unrelated matter, and it did a great job.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Joe J" wrote in message
...

And now the thread drifts...SQUIRREL!

On Mon, 3 Oct 2011 03:36:11 -0700 (PDT), Mikepier
wrote:

You might want to consider a water powered back-up pump in the event
you have no power.

http://www.simsupply.com/p-24936-back-up-sump-pump.aspx

I put one of these in a couple of days before Hurricane Irene hit, and
it saved my basement when my power went out.

Me? Why? My floor is 4' above the street. Oh, and I have no basement
(slab). ;-)