Hi.
I waterproofed the basement exterior last year and I'm finishing the
basement interior this year. It's concrete block walls on concrete
slab.
My plan is to glue 2" styrofoam insulation sheets to the interior wall
in a contiguous manner (to act as insulation and vapor barrier),
install metal studs in front of this insulation, and then install
concrete board or paperless sheetrock in front of that. My goal is to
make it as unattractive as possible for mold growth. I've read that
this is an accepted practice.

I also want to install ceramic tile on the floor.

If I put the walls up first, I'll never be able to run the tile to the
concrete block wall and thus create a depression around the perimeter
where, if I got water, would cause problems as it's not seen.
If I install the ceramic tile floor first, I run the risk of damaging
the tile during wall installation.

What is the typical approach in this case??
All advice appreciated.
Regards,
Theodore

On Sat, 17 Sep 2011 20:44:53 -0700 (PDT), millinghill
wrote:

Hi.
I waterproofed the basement exterior last year and I'm finishing the
basement interior this year. It's concrete block walls on concrete
slab.
My plan is to glue 2" styrofoam insulation sheets to the interior wall
in a contiguous manner (to act as insulation and vapor barrier),
install metal studs in front of this insulation, and then install
concrete board or paperless sheetrock in front of that. My goal is to
make it as unattractive as possible for mold growth. I've read that
this is an accepted practice.

I also want to install ceramic tile on the floor.

If I put the walls up first, I'll never be able to run the tile to the
concrete block wall and thus create a depression around the perimeter
where, if I got water, would cause problems as it's not seen.
If I install the ceramic tile floor first, I run the risk of damaging
the tile during wall installation.

What is the typical approach in this case??
All advice appreciated.
Regards,
Theodore

Consider how the living space of a house is constructed -- the deck
(sub-floor) is constructed first and then the walls. After the walls
are built and drywalled the attention turns to the floor. The
underlayment is installed and then the floor covering -- tile, carpet,
hardwood or whatever. I can't imagine building the floor UNDER the
walls.

millinghill wrote:
Hi.
I waterproofed the basement exterior last year and I'm finishing the
basement interior this year. It's concrete block walls on concrete
slab.
My plan is to glue 2" styrofoam insulation sheets to the interior wall
in a contiguous manner (to act as insulation and vapor barrier),
install metal studs in front of this insulation, and then install
concrete board or paperless sheetrock in front of that. My goal is to
make it as unattractive as possible for mold growth. I've read that
this is an accepted practice.

I also want to install ceramic tile on the floor.

If I put the walls up first, I'll never be able to run the tile to the
concrete block wall and thus create a depression around the perimeter
where, if I got water, would cause problems as it's not seen.
If I install the ceramic tile floor first, I run the risk of damaging
the tile during wall installation.

What is the typical approach in this case??
All advice appreciated.
Regards,
Theodore
Gi,
Wall first of course.

"millinghill" wrote in message
...
Hi.
I waterproofed the basement exterior last year and I'm finishing the
basement interior this year. It's concrete block walls on concrete
slab.
My plan is to glue 2" styrofoam insulation sheets to the interior
wall
in a contiguous manner (to act as insulation and vapor barrier),
install metal studs in front of this insulation, and then install
concrete board or paperless sheetrock in front of that. My goal is
to
make it as unattractive as possible for mold growth. I've read that
this is an accepted practice.

I also want to install ceramic tile on the floor.

If I put the walls up first, I'll never be able to run the tile to
the
concrete block wall and thus create a depression around the
perimeter
where, if I got water, would cause problems as it's not seen.
If I install the ceramic tile floor first, I run the risk of
damaging
the tile during wall installation.


How about making milds around the perimeter and pouring a bit of floor
leveling compound or mortar under where the insulation will be (same
thickness as the insulation). Then it will be at the same level as the
floor or you could make it a tad higher. Then water will not get in
there or would be able to drain back out...

FYI - The way things are done are typically by contractors doing
things for other people's homes. There are better ways to do things
sometimes for your *own* home! (More work and expense involved of
course...)

On Sat, 17 Sep 2011 23:41:00 -0500, Gordon Shumway
wrote:

On Sat, 17 Sep 2011 20:44:53 -0700 (PDT), millinghill
wrote:

Hi.
I waterproofed the basement exterior last year and I'm finishing the
basement interior this year. It's concrete block walls on concrete
slab.
My plan is to glue 2" styrofoam insulation sheets to the interior wall
in a contiguous manner (to act as insulation and vapor barrier),
install metal studs in front of this insulation, and then install
concrete board or paperless sheetrock in front of that. My goal is to
make it as unattractive as possible for mold growth. I've read that
this is an accepted practice.

I also want to install ceramic tile on the floor.

If I put the walls up first, I'll never be able to run the tile to the
concrete block wall and thus create a depression around the perimeter
where, if I got water, would cause problems as it's not seen.
If I install the ceramic tile floor first, I run the risk of damaging
the tile during wall installation.

What is the typical approach in this case??
All advice appreciated.
Regards,
Theodore

Consider how the living space of a house is constructed -- the deck
(sub-floor) is constructed first and then the walls. After the walls
are built and drywalled the attention turns to the floor. The
underlayment is installed and then the floor covering -- tile, carpet,
hardwood or whatever. I can't imagine building the floor UNDER the
walls.
In commercial construction it is relatively common practice to lay
the floor first, then install the partitions. Makes it a pain to
replace flooring at a later date, but makes it easy to move partitions
(walls) - so I guess it's 6 of 1, half dozen of the other.

On Sep 17, 10:44*pm, millinghill wrote:
Hi.
I waterproofed the basement exterior last year and I'm finishing the
basement interior this year. *It's concrete *block walls on concrete
slab.
My plan is to glue 2" styrofoam insulation sheets to the interior wall
in a contiguous manner (to act as insulation and vapor barrier),
install metal studs in front of this insulation, and then install
concrete board or paperless sheetrock in front of that. *My goal is to
make it as unattractive as possible for mold growth. *I've read that this is an accepted practice.

I also want to install ceramic tile on the floor.

If I put the walls up first, I'll never be able to run the tile to the
concrete block wall and thus create a depression around the perimeter
where, if I got water,

snip

If you think water could be a future problem, why are you using metal
studs?

Joe

If you think water could be a future problem, why are you using metal
studs?

Joe

I plan to use metal studs because they wont provide food for mold.

On Sun, 18 Sep 2011 13:09:15 -0700 (PDT), Joe wrote:

On Sep 17, 10:44Â*pm, millinghill wrote:
Hi.
I waterproofed the basement exterior last year and I'm finishing the
basement interior this year. Â*It's concrete Â*block walls on concrete
slab.
My plan is to glue 2" styrofoam insulation sheets to the interior wall
in a contiguous manner (to act as insulation and vapor barrier),
install metal studs in front of this insulation, and then install
concrete board or paperless sheetrock in front of that. Â*My goal is to
make it as unattractive as possible for mold growth. Â*I've read that this is an accepted practice.

I also want to install ceramic tile on the floor.

If I put the walls up first, I'll never be able to run the tile to the
concrete block wall and thus create a depression around the perimeter
where, if I got water,

snip

If you think water could be a future problem, why are you using metal
studs?

Joe

Or even covering the walls if that's where the water would come from.
For good drainage, it's important that the floor is sloped, and is
higher at the wall. That's how my basement is.
I don't know anything about metal studs
The part of my basement that is wood paneled has 2x4 footers against
the outside walls. No insulation.
I've had 2 floods of 4-8", and when the water drained off all that
dried off with no apparent damage and no mold I've seen.
I ran fans down there for a couple weeks each time, and the basement
isn't naturally damp.
So the answer to drainage is proper sloping from the wall.
For the OP's main concern, I'd do the framing, then tile to it so
grouting would meet the footers, then cover the walls last.
No voids for water to set in.
Again, I don't even know what metal footer looks like.

Basements are different, and I don't know the OP's setup.
My basement is poured foundation, below ground except the top 18".
I don't how much heat insulation would save.
Some for sure, as the snow slowly melts away around the foundation.
If I ever insulated, I'd use the foam panels.
I'd never use sheetrock in my basement lower than 18" off the floor.
That would be wood paneling or something else that won't fall apart
if it got soaked by flooding, and it could be replaced easily without
tearing out floor to ceiling sheetrock.
Basically 18" of wainscoting.
But I just wouldn't use sheetrock down there.
Not an expert, but I've given some thought to how I'd insulate my
basement.

--Vic

Please see sketch:
http://i899.photobucket.com/albums/a...wall-floor.jpg

I'm concerned that if I install the XPS and stud wall per this sketch,
I'll be left with a depression underneath these two items due to the
thinset and tile I want to install.
My other option is to install thinset and tile first, but then I run
the risk of damaging the tile floor with all this stud wall
construction taking place over it.
3rd option is what "Bill" suggested below: to make a sill under the
XPS and stud wall similar in thickness to thinset&tile. But my
concern is that may spall as it's so thin and so narrow.

Opinions appreciated!

On Wed, 21 Sep 2011 12:40:34 -0700 (PDT), millinghill
wrote:

Please see sketch:
http://i899.photobucket.com/albums/a...wall-floor.jpg

I'm concerned that if I install the XPS and stud wall per this sketch,
I'll be left with a depression underneath these two items due to the
thinset and tile I want to install.
My other option is to install thinset and tile first, but then I run
the risk of damaging the tile floor with all this stud wall
construction taking place over it.
3rd option is what "Bill" suggested below: to make a sill under the
XPS and stud wall similar in thickness to thinset&tile. But my
concern is that may spall as it's so thin and so narrow.

Opinions appreciated!

What "depression" are you concerned about? The only problem I saw
with your sketch is the sheetrock is over the tile. Typically, the
sheetrock is done before the floor. The tile would go up to, but not
under, the sheetrock. Any resulting gap would be covered by trim.

Quit agonizing about the job and just do it.

Hi and thanks for the feedback.

I've highlighted the area in red that I consider a" depression" that
has potential to take on water if there's a leak. See this version:
http://i899.photobucket.com/albums/a...ll-floor-1.jpg

I don't want to run the drywall down to be flush with the floor
because I want to prevent it from wicking up moisture if any occurs in
the future. I can put a plastic kickplate over the gap, so it's not
an aesthetic concern.

Just wondering what other folks have done in similar situations? Or
do you just live with potential of water filling this area if there's
a minor spill/plumbing issue/wall leak.


What "depression" are you concerned about? *The only problem I saw
with your sketch is the sheetrock is over the tile. *Typically, the
sheetrock is done before the floor. *The tile would go up to, but not
under, the sheetrock. *Any resulting gap would be covered by trim.

Quit agonizing about the job and just do it.

Hi and thanks for the feedback.
I've highlighted the area in red that I consider a" depression" that
has potential to take on water if there's a leak. See this version:
http://i899.photobucket.com/albums/a...sementwall-flo...
I don't want to run the drywall down to be flush with the floor
because I want to prevent it from wicking up moisture if any occurs
in
the future. I can put a plastic kickplate over the gap, so it's not
an aesthetic concern.

Just wondering what other folks have done in similar situations? Or
do you just live with potential of water filling this area if there's
a minor spill/plumbing issue/wall leak.

- Show quoted text -

What "depression" are you concerned about? *The only problem I saw
with your sketch is the sheetrock is over the tile. *Typically, the
sheetrock is done before the floor. *The tile would go up to, but not
under, the sheetrock. *Any resulting gap would be covered by trim.

Quit agonizing about the job and just do it.

Hi and thanks for the feedback.
I've highlighted the area in red that I consider a" depression" that
has potential to take on water if there's a leak. See this version:

http://i899.photobucket.com/albums/a...ill/detail.jpg

I don't want to run the drywall down to be flush with the floor
because I want to prevent it from wicking up moisture if any occurs
in
the future. I can put a plastic kickplate over the gap, so it's not
an aesthetic concern.

Just wondering what other folks have done in similar situations? Or
do you just live with potential of water filling this area if there's
a minor spill/plumbing issue/wall leak.


What "depression" are you concerned about? *The only problem I saw
with your sketch is the sheetrock is over the tile. *Typically, the
sheetrock is done before the floor. *The tile would go up to, but not
under, the sheetrock. *Any resulting gap would be covered by trim.

Quit agonizing about the job and just do it.

Anna Falcone wrote:
Hi and thanks for the feedback.

I've highlighted the area in red that I consider a" depression" that
has potential to take on water if there's a leak. See this version:
http://i899.photobucket.com/albums/a...ll-floor-1.jpg

I don't want to run the drywall down to be flush with the floor
because I want to prevent it from wicking up moisture if any occurs in
the future. I can put a plastic kickplate over the gap, so it's not
an aesthetic concern.


Put down a mess of 1/2x1/2" sticks.

Position the sheetrock on the sticks before nailing it to the wall. Remove
(if you can) the sticks.

Later, you tile can slide under the sheetrock - or not - depending on your
inclinations.

On Sunday, September 18, 2011 at 4:09:15 PM UTC-4, Joe wrote:
On Sep 17, 10:44Â*pm, millinghill wrote:
Hi.
I waterproofed the basement exterior last year and I'm finishing the
basement interior this year. Â*It's concrete Â*block walls on concrete
slab.
My plan is to glue 2" styrofoam insulation sheets to the interior wall
in a contiguous manner (to act as insulation and vapor barrier),
install metal studs in front of this insulation, and then install
concrete board or paperless sheetrock in front of that. Â*My goal is to
make it as unattractive as possible for mold growth. Â*I've read that this is an accepted practice.

I also want to install ceramic tile on the floor.

If I put the walls up first, I'll never be able to run the tile to the
concrete block wall and thus create a depression around the perimeter
where, if I got water,

snip

If you think water could be a future problem, why are you using metal
studs?

Joe


Because water will not destroy metal by slowly eating away, causing wood is organic and when soaked in water, over time will cause mildew and decay, and ultimately rot the wood???

On Thu, 21 Sep 2017 14:14:37 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:


Because water will not destroy metal by slowly eating away

Citation needed. Say it ain't so.

posted for all of us...


Because water will not destroy metal by slowly eating away


So I guess the bridge replacements are not needed according to you?

--
Tekkie