I am considering installing a lawn sprinkler system, but haven't really
seen the type of system I am looking for.

We have a fairly large yard, though it is mostly lots of little small areas
and not a big consistant open area.

We are also on a well, and typically can't run more than one sprinkler at a
time (the kind you connect to a garden hose) without drawing down the well
and kicking off the pump (our well was rated for 5gpm and handles normal
water usage with no issues).

Typical "zone" systems wouldn't work real well, as we would have too many
zones, and combining zones would use too much water at once.

So, I was hoping to find a system that could operate from a single water
line, with individually controlled sprinkler heads that tie into that line.
Basically, one water pipe, and one control cable (one wire power, one wire
ground, one wire control signals). Sort of like an X10 control system,
where each sprinkler head is a module that responds to a "code" to turn
that head on or off.

While this would obviously increase the cost of the sprinkler heads, it
would do away with separate valves, and potentially eliminate hundreds of
feet of pipe and wires.

Even better if the sprinkler heads could respond to X10 or Insteon controls
so I could manage it from my home automation system.

Does anything like this exist?

Thanks,

Anthony

On 9/1/2011 5:48 PM, HerHusband wrote:

snip

Does anything like this exist?

No.

You could build a system using CANBus or I2C, but it would be
ridiculously expensive, requiring a micro-controller at every sprinkler
to decode the CANBus or I2C command, and a relay to control the 24VAC to
an individual valve for each sprinkler. Such a device would be pretty
cheap if manufactured in volume in China, but they aren't. And
practically speaking, running a separate wire to each valve isn't that
big a deal.

At 5GPM you could have two or three sprinklers on at a time, depending
on the flow of each one. So doing a lot of zones is your best bet. You
can put a valve near each cluster of three sprinklers and run a lot of
wiring rather than a lot of pipe.

Since wire and PVC are cheap, and even the valves are relatively
inexpensive, it would be far cheaper to just do it conventionally, even
if you needed two controllers to handle all the zones.

Of course there are other ways to do this too. You could have a valve
fill a few 55 gallon barrels then have the controller activate a pump
that pumps water out of the barrels in order to irrigate a couple of
zones, then repeat for other zones.

"HerHusband" wrote in message
...
I am considering installing a lawn sprinkler system, but haven't really
seen the type of system I am looking for.


We are also on a well, and typically can't run more than one sprinkler at
a
time (the kind you connect to a garden hose) without drawing down the well
and kicking off the pump (our well was rated for 5gpm and handles normal
water usage with no issues).

I'd re-think the whole idea. Why do you feel it is necessary to have green
grass on the hottest days of the summer? Why tax the well any more than you
have to? Depending on where you live and where your water is coming from,
you can overtax a well and run it dry or reduce the quality of the water or
suck up sand. I'd check out that aspect before worrying about the grass.
Green lawn is not a higher priority that washing dishes and flushing
toilets.

There is an abundance of water on the earth, but it is not always where we
want it.

On Sep 1, 10:05*pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
"HerHusband" wrote in message

...

I am considering installing a lawn sprinkler system, but haven't really
seen the type of system I am looking for.

We are also on a well, and typically can't run more than one sprinkler at
a
time (the kind you connect to a garden hose) without drawing down the well
and kicking off the pump (our well was rated for 5gpm and handles normal
water usage with no issues).

I'd re-think the whole idea. *Why do you feel it is necessary to have green
grass on the hottest days of the summer? *Why tax the well any more than you
have to? *Depending on where you live and where your water is coming from,
you can overtax a well and run it dry or reduce the quality of the water or
suck up sand. * I'd check out that aspect before worrying about the grass.
Green lawn is not a higher priority that washing dishes and flushing
toilets.

There is an abundance of water on the earth, but it is not always where we
want it.

Better yet, the OP could collect all the grey water in the 55 gallon
drums another poster mentioned and use that to water his grass.

HerHusband wrote in
:

I am considering installing a lawn sprinkler system, but haven't
really seen the type of system I am looking for.

We have a fairly large yard, though it is mostly lots of little small
areas and not a big consistant open area.

We are also on a well, and typically can't run more than one sprinkler
at a time (the kind you connect to a garden hose) without drawing down
the well and kicking off the pump (our well was rated for 5gpm and
handles normal water usage with no issues).

Typical "zone" systems wouldn't work real well, as we would have too
many zones, and combining zones would use too much water at once.

So, I was hoping to find a system that could operate from a single
water line, with individually controlled sprinkler heads that tie into
that line. Basically, one water pipe, and one control cable (one wire
power, one wire ground, one wire control signals). Sort of like an X10
control system, where each sprinkler head is a module that responds to
a "code" to turn that head on or off.

While this would obviously increase the cost of the sprinkler heads,
it would do away with separate valves, and potentially eliminate
hundreds of feet of pipe and wires.

Even better if the sprinkler heads could respond to X10 or Insteon
controls so I could manage it from my home automation system.

Does anything like this exist?

Thanks,

Anthony

Not a sprinkler guru but I think you're gonna kill your water supply
unless you're into a underground river.

In a house I had long ago I had a sprinkler system professionally
installed. Had the control box with all the zones and stuff. Public water
supply. It watered about 1/4-1/3A of grass area. With the watering time
recommended by the installer, it sucked up like 2000 gal of water per
cycle. Ready for that??? Fortunately no $ewer charge because I had
septic.

Another thought, a well pump can take the duty cycle required?


Just thoughts I'd look into.

On Sep 2, 12:28*am, Red Green wrote:
HerHusband wrote :





I am considering installing a lawn sprinkler system, but haven't
really seen the type of system I am looking for.

We have a fairly large yard, though it is mostly lots of little small
areas and not a big consistant open area.

We are also on a well, and typically can't run more than one sprinkler
at a time (the kind you connect to a garden hose) without drawing down
the well and kicking off the pump (our well was rated for 5gpm and
handles normal water usage with no issues).

Don't know what kind of sprinkler that is, but I tend to
doubt that the typical sprinkler on the end of a hose
is pulling 5GPM+. I'd start by finding out exactly what
the well can supply by accurately measuring it.






Typical "zone" systems wouldn't work real well, as we would have too
many zones, and combining zones would use too much water at once.

So, I was hoping to find a system that could operate from a single
water line, with individually controlled sprinkler heads that tie into
that line. Basically, one water pipe, and one control cable (one wire
power, one wire ground, one wire control signals). Sort of like an X10
control system, where each sprinkler head is a module that responds to
a "code" to turn that head on or off.

While this would obviously increase the cost of the sprinkler heads,
it would do away with separate valves, and potentially eliminate
hundreds of feet of pipe and wires.

Even better if the sprinkler heads could respond to X10 or Insteon
controls so I could manage it from my home automation system.

Does anything like this exist?

Thanks,

Anthony

Not a sprinkler guru but I think you're gonna kill your water supply
unless you're into a underground river.


While his well is marginal for running a sprinkler system
you sure don't need an underground river either. Lots
of home sprinkler systems are run off of typical wells.
Have one here that is 50 ft deep and delivers 15GPM,
nothing special.





In a house I had long ago I had a sprinkler system professionally
installed. Had the control box with all the zones and stuff. Public water
supply. It watered about 1/4-1/3A of grass area. With the watering time
recommended by the installer, it sucked up like 2000 gal of water per
cycle. Ready for that??? Fortunately no $ewer charge because I had
septic.

Agree. It does take more water than most people would think.
A good place to start would be to calculate how much water
is required to cover the intended area with 1/2" of water,
which is a reasonable amount to put down for a watering..
If he uses 1 GPM heads, three or 4 at a time, that would be
3 or 4 GPM.
Then he can calculate how long it will take to water the
lawn and figure out if it's feasible. With a typical
controller you get 12 zones, which could then run
36 heads. Controllers that do more zones are
available. I don't know of any systems that use
the single wire approach and would think it would
be cost prohibitive as well as problematic.

I would also consult with a well expert in the area about
pushing a low flow well near it's limit. Might be fine,
but I'd want to know any potential issues first. And
if you do go ahead with it, I'd probably put one of the
pump protection devices on that detects the pump
running out of water and cuts it off, preventing the
pump from burning out.




Another thought, a well pump can take the duty cycle required?

Submersibles will run 24/7. Don't know about others
or what type he has.

On Sep 1, 8:48*pm, HerHusband wrote:
I am considering installing a lawn sprinkler system, but haven't really
seen the type of system I am looking for.

We have a fairly large yard, though it is mostly lots of little small areas
and not a big consistant open area.

We are also on a well, and typically can't run more than one sprinkler at a
time (the kind you connect to a garden hose) without drawing down the well
and kicking off the pump (our well was rated for 5gpm and handles normal
water usage with no issues).

Typical "zone" systems wouldn't work real well, as we would have too many
zones, and combining zones would use too much water at once.

So, I was hoping to find a system that could operate from a single water
line, with individually controlled sprinkler heads that tie into that line.
Basically, one water pipe, and one control cable (one wire power, one wire
ground, one wire control signals). Sort of like an X10 control system,
where each sprinkler head is a module that responds to a "code" to turn
that head on or off.

While this would obviously increase the cost of the sprinkler heads, it
would do away with separate valves, and potentially eliminate hundreds of
feet of pipe and wires.

Even better if the sprinkler heads could respond to X10 or Insteon controls
so I could manage it from my home automation system.

Does anything like this exist?

Thanks,

Anthony

Nope. But you should be able to run several heads at once. I think
they mostly range around the 1 to 2 gpm. Get a controller that does 8
zones. I'd try to spead out the start times as much as possible to
minimize the load on your well. Run a few zones per day. Run at
night to cut down on evaporation. If you have sandy soil use more
frequent shorter runs.

Another option would be to "bank" some water. Thos big square framed
plastic tanks are often on our cl for %40 to $75. They hold somethign
aorund 300 gallons.

On 9/1/2011 8:48 PM, HerHusband wrote:
I am considering installing a lawn sprinkler system, but haven't really
seen the type of system I am looking for.

We have a fairly large yard, though it is mostly lots of little small areas
and not a big consistant open area.

Fairly large? Acres? Lots of trees? If you have several trees, it may
be impossible to install a decent system, either because the roots cover
the yard and don't allow trenches or because trees block water coverage.

At any rate, the mfg. of irrig. products offer free design services.
I've not used them, but it's certainly a good resource.


http://www.rainbird.com/homeowner/design/index.htm


http://www.orbitonline.com/sprinkler-system-designer/

http://www.torodesign.com/



This site can answer every question imaginable about irrigation:
http://www.irrigationtutorials.com/sprinkler00.htm

On 9/1/2011 8:48 PM, HerHusband wrote:
I am considering installing a lawn sprinkler system, but haven't really
seen the type of system I am looking for.

We have a fairly large yard, though it is mostly lots of little small areas
and not a big consistant open area.

We are also on a well, and typically can't run more than one sprinkler at a
time (the kind you connect to a garden hose) without drawing down the well
and kicking off the pump (our well was rated for 5gpm and handles normal
water usage with no issues).


Why not add typical local vegetation and features such as rock, stone
ets doesn't require watering or a lot of maintenance especially since
you noted your well is marginal?

On 9/1/2011 11:05 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

"HerHusband" wrote in message
...
I am considering installing a lawn sprinkler system, but haven't really
seen the type of system I am looking for.


We are also on a well, and typically can't run more than one sprinkler
at a
time (the kind you connect to a garden hose) without drawing down the
well
and kicking off the pump (our well was rated for 5gpm and handles normal
water usage with no issues).

I'd re-think the whole idea. Why do you feel it is necessary to have
green grass on the hottest days of the summer? Why tax the well any more
than you have to? Depending on where you live and where your water is
coming from, you can overtax a well and run it dry or reduce the quality
of the water or suck up sand. I'd check out that aspect before worrying
about the grass. Green lawn is not a higher priority that washing dishes
and flushing toilets.

There is an abundance of water on the earth, but it is not always where
we want it.

Agree, some of the most attractive landscaping is where they used
locally occurring plants and features such as rock and stone. I always
wondered why having a golf course lawn became a "normal" idea.

On Thu, 1 Sep 2011 22:12:46 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Sep 2, 12:28*am, Red Green wrote:
HerHusband wrote :





I am considering installing a lawn sprinkler system, but haven't
really seen the type of system I am looking for.

We have a fairly large yard, though it is mostly lots of little small
areas and not a big consistant open area.

We are also on a well, and typically can't run more than one sprinkler
at a time (the kind you connect to a garden hose) without drawing down
the well and kicking off the pump (our well was rated for 5gpm and
handles normal water usage with no issues).

Don't know what kind of sprinkler that is, but I tend to
doubt that the typical sprinkler on the end of a hose
is pulling 5GPM+. I'd start by finding out exactly what
the well can supply by accurately measuring it.

He's talking about feeding an irrigation system.


Typical "zone" systems wouldn't work real well, as we would have too
many zones, and combining zones would use too much water at once.

So, I was hoping to find a system that could operate from a single
water line, with individually controlled sprinkler heads that tie into
that line. Basically, one water pipe, and one control cable (one wire
power, one wire ground, one wire control signals). Sort of like an X10
control system, where each sprinkler head is a module that responds to
a "code" to turn that head on or off.

While this would obviously increase the cost of the sprinkler heads,
it would do away with separate valves, and potentially eliminate
hundreds of feet of pipe and wires.

Even better if the sprinkler heads could respond to X10 or Insteon
controls so I could manage it from my home automation system.

Does anything like this exist?

Thanks,

Anthony

Not a sprinkler guru but I think you're gonna kill your water supply
unless you're into a underground river.


While his well is marginal for running a sprinkler system
you sure don't need an underground river either. Lots
of home sprinkler systems are run off of typical wells.
Have one here that is 50 ft deep and delivers 15GPM,
nothing special.

An inch of water over 1/4 acre is 6800 gallons.


In a house I had long ago I had a sprinkler system professionally
installed. Had the control box with all the zones and stuff. Public water
supply. It watered about 1/4-1/3A of grass area. With the watering time
recommended by the installer, it sucked up like 2000 gal of water per
cycle. Ready for that??? Fortunately no $ewer charge because I had
septic.

Agree. It does take more water than most people would think.
A good place to start would be to calculate how much water
is required to cover the intended area with 1/2" of water,

3400 gallons. A 1/2" really isn't enough. An inch a week is a minimum for
grass.

which is a reasonable amount to put down for a watering..
If he uses 1 GPM heads, three or 4 at a time, that would be
3 or 4 GPM.

3400 gallons would take 11 hours at 4GPM.

Then he can calculate how long it will take to water the
lawn and figure out if it's feasible. With a typical
controller you get 12 zones, which could then run
36 heads. Controllers that do more zones are
available. I don't know of any systems that use
the single wire approach and would think it would
be cost prohibitive as well as problematic.

I would also consult with a well expert in the area about
pushing a low flow well near it's limit. Might be fine,
but I'd want to know any potential issues first. And
if you do go ahead with it, I'd probably put one of the
pump protection devices on that detects the pump
running out of water and cuts it off, preventing the
pump from burning out.




Another thought, a well pump can take the duty cycle required?

Submersibles will run 24/7. Don't know about others
or what type he has.

On 9/2/2011 9:38 AM, George wrote:
On 9/1/2011 11:05 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

"HerHusband" wrote in message
...
I am considering installing a lawn sprinkler system, but haven't really
seen the type of system I am looking for.


We are also on a well, and typically can't run more than one sprinkler
at a
time (the kind you connect to a garden hose) without drawing down the
well
and kicking off the pump (our well was rated for 5gpm and handles normal
water usage with no issues).

I'd re-think the whole idea. Why do you feel it is necessary to have
green grass on the hottest days of the summer? Why tax the well any more
than you have to? Depending on where you live and where your water is
coming from, you can overtax a well and run it dry or reduce the quality
of the water or suck up sand. I'd check out that aspect before worrying
about the grass. Green lawn is not a higher priority that washing dishes
and flushing toilets.

There is an abundance of water on the earth, but it is not always where
we want it.

Agree, some of the most attractive landscaping is where they used
locally occurring plants and features such as rock and stone. I always
wondered why having a golf course lawn became a "normal" idea.

Preaching to the choir, here. Usually by early July, my lawn is nice and
dormant, and I may have to buzz the high spots every couple of weeks.
But this summer, Mother Nature decided she wanted springtime bright
green, and we have had plenty of water and heat and sunshine- the damn
grass thinks it is still May, and is still growing like crazy. It has
finally slowed down a tad in last week, but I was cutting every six
days. No Mas- I'm tired of yardwork for the year already. But I can
already see hints of leaves changing, so in 3-4 weeks, that will be
added to the mix.

--
aem sends...

We are also on a well, and typically can't run more than one
sprinkler at a time (the kind you connect to a garden hose) without
drawing down the well and kicking off the pump (our well was rated
for 5gpm and handles normal water usage with no issues).

Don't know what kind of sprinkler that is, but I tend to
doubt that the typical sprinkler on the end of a hose
is pulling 5GPM+.

I can run one sprinkler all day long if I want to. That's not a problem.
But if the sprinkler has been running a while and we use more water at
the same time (another sprinkler, wash the car, etc.), it can lower the
water pressure enough that the pump switch kicks off.

I'd probably put one of the pump protection devices on that detects
the pump running out of water and cuts it off, preventing the
pump from burning out.

Yes, that is the type of pump controller we have. Basically, if the
pressure drops below a certain level the pump kicks off and I have to
manually go turn it back on in the pump house.

Agree. It does take more water than most people would think.
A good place to start would be to calculate how much water
is required to cover the intended area with 1/2" of water,
which is a reasonable amount to put down for a watering..
If he uses 1 GPM heads, three or 4 at a time, that would be
3 or 4 GPM.
Then he can calculate how long it will take to water the
lawn and figure out if it's feasible. With a typical
controller you get 12 zones, which could then run
36 heads. Controllers that do more zones are
available. I don't know of any systems that use
the single wire approach and would think it would
be cost prohibitive as well as problematic.

More than likely, I would only install sprinklers for a few areas right
around the house. So, the total water load should be reduced
dramatically, and if I timed it to run when we normally don't use water
it shouldn't over power the well. Especially, if I spaced the timing so
the well had time to recover. Maybe one zone each day or something.

if you do go ahead with it,

I'm just looking into it at this point. I suspect the distances to the
power and water sources would be more trouble than it's worth for a few
zones around the house.

Odds are I won't have the time or money to do it anyway, but thought I
would investigate the options in case I decide to go through with it.

Thanks for the feedback!

Anthony

HerHusband wrote:
We are also on a well, and typically can't run more than one
sprinkler at a time (the kind you connect to a garden hose) without
drawing down the well and kicking off the pump (our well was rated
for 5gpm and handles normal water usage with no issues).

Don't know what kind of sprinkler that is, but I tend to
doubt that the typical sprinkler on the end of a hose
is pulling 5GPM+.

I can run one sprinkler all day long if I want to. That's not a
problem. But if the sprinkler has been running a while and we use
more water at the same time (another sprinkler, wash the car, etc.),
it can lower the water pressure enough that the pump switch kicks off.

Off? What am I missing...when pressure drops the pump should turn on and
run until the upper limit pressure is reached THEN turn off. Your's
doesn't?

Re your irrigating it is normal to have enough heads dispensing enough water
that the well pump runs continuously; better for the pump than cyclying
on/off repeatedly. Note: I haven't been following this thread so apologies
and disregard if comments not appropriate.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Sep 2, 3:53*pm, "dadiOH" wrote:
HerHusband wrote:
We are also on a well, and typically can't run more than one
sprinkler at a time (the kind you connect to a garden hose) without
drawing down the well and kicking off the pump (our well was rated
for 5gpm and handles normal water usage with no issues).

Don't know what kind of sprinkler that is, but I tend to
doubt that the typical sprinkler on the end of a hose
is pulling 5GPM+.

I can run one sprinkler all day long if I want to. That's not a
problem. But if the sprinkler has been running a while and we use
more water at the same time (another sprinkler, wash the car, etc.),
it can lower the water pressure enough that the pump switch kicks off.

Off? *What am I missing...when pressure drops the pump should turn on and
run until the upper limit pressure is reached THEN turn off. *Your's
doesn't?

AGree. I think he's confused on what is turning
the pump off. The protection systems I'm
familiar with on submersibles work by looking
at the current flowing to the pump. When
it runs out of water the current drops, the
controller detects that and cuts off the pump
to prevent it from burning up.



Re your irrigating it is normal to have enough heads dispensing enough water
that the well pump runs continuously; better for the pump than cyclying
on/off repeatedly. *Note: *I haven't been following this thread so apologies
and disregard if comments not appropriate.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico

I can run one sprinkler all day long if I want to. That's not a
problem. But if the sprinkler has been running a while and we use
more water at the same time (another sprinkler, wash the car,
etc.), it can lower the water pressure enough that the pump switch
kicks off.

Off? *What am I missing...when pressure drops the pump should turn on
and run until the upper limit pressure is reached THEN turn off.
*Your's doesn't?

AGree. I think he's confused on what is turning
the pump off. The protection systems I'm
familiar with on submersibles work by looking
at the current flowing to the pump. When
it runs out of water the current drops, the
controller detects that and cuts off the pump
to prevent it from burning up.

Our system is much simpler, and I thought quite common. It's just a
standard pump switch with a low pressure cutoff. (similar low pressure
cutoff switches are sold on Amazon and other places. Mine is a SquareD
brand.)

Basically, the pump runs until the pressure reaches the set maximum (I
think it's 60psi, IIRC). Then the pump shuts off and you use water from
the pressure tank.

As you draw down the water in the tank, the pressure will slowly drop
until it reaches the cut-in point (40psi, I think). Then the pump will
turn on to refill the tank (and supply water if you're still using it).

However, if we use water faster than the pump can replenish it, the
pressure will continue to drop below that cut-in point. When it reaches
the low pressure limit (20psi, I think), it shuts down the pump.

It's a simple system that works well.

In normal use we never trip the low pressure cutout. It's only when I
have run a sprinkler for some time and try to use other water at the same
time (i.e. I forget to turn off the sprinkler before my wife does
laundry).

In any case, I am probably not going to install the sprinkler system. At
the present time, I think it would be more trouble than it's worth.

Thanks,

Anthony

On Sat, 3 Sep 2011 16:04:10 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

snip
Basically, the pump runs until the pressure reaches the set maximum (I
think it's 60psi, IIRC). Then the pump shuts off and you use water from
the pressure tank.

As you draw down the water in the tank, the pressure will slowly drop
until it reaches the cut-in point (40psi, I think). Then the pump will
turn on to refill the tank (and supply water if you're still using it).

However, if we use water faster than the pump can replenish it, the
pressure will continue to drop below that cut-in point. When it reaches
the low pressure limit (20psi, I think), it shuts down the pump.

I understand the logic behind all of this, but doesn't the low pressure limit
then cause a latch-up condition? How do you get out of it? Furnaces have
similar (opposite) thresholds, but in that case the system resets by
convection cooling to below the safety threshold. In this case I see no way
to get above the 20psi threshold once it's tripped. ...or even to start the
ball rolling to begin with. ;-)

...

Basically, the pump runs until the pressure reaches the set maximum (I
think it's 60psi, IIRC). Then the pump shuts off and you use water
from the pressure tank.

As you draw down the water in the tank, the pressure will slowly drop
until it reaches the cut-in point (40psi, I think). Then the pump will
turn on to refill the tank (and supply water if you're still using
it).

However, if we use water faster than the pump can replenish it, the
pressure will continue to drop below that cut-in point. When it
reaches the low pressure limit (20psi, I think), it shuts down the
pump.

I understand the logic behind all of this, but doesn't the low
pressure limit then cause a latch-up condition? How do you get out of
it? Furnaces have similar (opposite) thresholds, but in that case the
system resets by convection cooling to below the safety threshold. In
this case I see no way to get above the 20psi threshold once it's
tripped. ...or even to start the ball rolling to begin with. ;-)

There is a lever on the switch that lets you run the pump manually.

If the low pressure switch is tripped, you have to hold the switch on 30
seconds or so until the pressure builds up above the low cutoff point.
It's not a big deal, but it's annoying to have to run up to the pump house
if it trips.

Thankfully, it is not something that occurs in normal use.

Anthony

On Sun, 4 Sep 2011 03:24:10 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

Basically, the pump runs until the pressure reaches the set maximum (I
think it's 60psi, IIRC). Then the pump shuts off and you use water
from the pressure tank.

As you draw down the water in the tank, the pressure will slowly drop
until it reaches the cut-in point (40psi, I think). Then the pump will
turn on to refill the tank (and supply water if you're still using
it).

However, if we use water faster than the pump can replenish it, the
pressure will continue to drop below that cut-in point. When it
reaches the low pressure limit (20psi, I think), it shuts down the
pump.

I understand the logic behind all of this, but doesn't the low
pressure limit then cause a latch-up condition? How do you get out of
it? Furnaces have similar (opposite) thresholds, but in that case the
system resets by convection cooling to below the safety threshold. In
this case I see no way to get above the 20psi threshold once it's
tripped. ...or even to start the ball rolling to begin with. ;-)

There is a lever on the switch that lets you run the pump manually.

If the low pressure switch is tripped, you have to hold the switch on 30
seconds or so until the pressure builds up above the low cutoff point.
It's not a big deal, but it's annoying to have to run up to the pump house
if it trips.

Thankfully, it is not something that occurs in normal use.

I see. Yes, that would be a PITA. The power entrance panel in our last house
was in a closet, outside on the front porch. It was rather a PITA to have to
go outside, after a shower, in the Vermont Winter, to reset the GFCI.
Fortunately, that didn't happen often, either.