I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:

http://goo.gl/ZOm4N

One is steel and another is aluminum.

I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
matter?

I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.

i

"Ignoramus23641" wrote in message
...
I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:

http://goo.gl/ZOm4N

One is steel and another is aluminum.

I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
matter?

I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.

i

I am just an amateur home plumber too, but I do see that the aluminum
wrenches command higher prices. They are a lot easier to lug around. I
doubt you would ever be able to break or bend either.

I would mention that if you are actually working on pipes, you often want
two similar wrenches to apply opposite torques on either side of the joint.
Otherwise something might come undone that was not supposed to. That said,
you would have to have some pretty big iron pipes to really take advantage
of these.

On Jul 13, 1:37*pm, Ignoramus23641 ignoramus23...@NOSPAM.
23641.invalid wrote:
I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:

*http://goo.gl/ZOm4N

One is steel and another is aluminum.

I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
matter?

I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.

i

a) you'll get more money for the Al wrench, and seeing as how you're
not lugging it all over the place every day, the extra weight of the
iron wrench shouldn't be a problem. The Al wrench is plenty strong.

b) If it was me, I'd keep both. I did a minor change to the steam
heating pipes in my house and thought I'd be OK with one 24" and one
36" wrench. I would have been way better off with a pair of 36"
wrenches.

On Jul 13, 12:37*pm, Ignoramus23641 ignoramus23...@NOSPAM.
23641.invalid wrote:
I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:

*http://goo.gl/ZOm4N

One is steel and another is aluminum.

I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
matter?

I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.

i

Keep the aluminum one. Less likely to get you in trouble, plus, you
aren't getting any younger...G

Joe

On Jul 13, 2:02*pm, "anorton"
wrote:
"Ignoramus23641" wrote in message

...

I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:

*http://goo.gl/ZOm4N

One is steel and another is aluminum.

I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
matter?

I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.

i

I am just an amateur home plumber too, but I do see that the aluminum
wrenches command higher prices. *They are a lot easier to lug around. *I
doubt you would ever be able to break or bend either.

I would mention that if you are actually working on pipes, you often want
two similar wrenches to apply opposite torques on either side of the joint.

Ignoramus23641 wrote:
I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:

http://goo.gl/ZOm4N

One is steel and another is aluminum.

I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
matter?

I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.


Hmm.

If subject to too much torque, the aluminum wrench will bend, the iron
wrench will break. "Too much" is probably greater for the cast iron wrench.
How much greater, I know not, nor whether it matters in the real world.

On Jul 13, 1:02*pm, "anorton"
wrote:
"Ignoramus23641" wrote in message

...

I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:

*http://goo.gl/ZOm4N

One is steel and another is aluminum.

I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
matter?

I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.

i

I am just an amateur home plumber too, but I do see that the aluminum
wrenches command higher prices. *They are a lot easier to lug around. *I
doubt you would ever be able to break or bend either.

I would mention that if you are actually working on pipes, you often want
two similar wrenches to apply opposite torques on either side of the joint.

On Jul 13, 1:47*pm, Karl Townsend
wrote:
On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 11:05:55 -0700 (PDT), rangerssuck





wrote:
On Jul 13, 2:02*pm, "anorton"
wrote:
"Ignoramus23641" wrote in message

om...

I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:

*http://goo.gl/ZOm4N

One is steel and another is aluminum.

I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
matter?

I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.

i

I am just an amateur home plumber too, but I do see that the aluminum
wrenches command higher prices. *They are a lot easier to lug around.. *I
doubt you would ever be able to break or bend either.

I would mention that if you are actually working on pipes, you often want
two similar wrenches to apply opposite torques on either side of the joint.
Otherwise something might come undone that was not supposed to. *That said,
you would have to have some pretty big iron pipes to really take advantage
of these.

I agree with everything you said except the last item. Getting 1 1/2"
iron steam pipe unstuck would simply not have happened if I had a
wrench shhorter than 36". If I ever have to do this again, I would
consider renting a pair of 48" wrenches.

I have a pair of 36" wrenches. One is bent like a banana. Had
something to do with the eight foot pipe I used for a cheater bar.

Karl- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

REAL MEN use a tractor as the cheater bar. ;)

TMT

On Jul 13, 12:37*pm, Ignoramus23641 ignoramus23...@NOSPAM.
23641.invalid wrote:
I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:

*http://goo.gl/ZOm4N

One is steel and another is aluminum.

I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
matter?

I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.

i

I would also suggest making some cheater bars out of pipe when you get
the chance...sometime in the future you WILL use them.

Remember me when those bars make that impossible job possible. ;)

TMT

On 2011-07-13, rangerssuck wrote:
On Jul 13, 1:37?pm, Ignoramus23641 ignoramus23...@NOSPAM.
23641.invalid wrote:
I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:

?http://goo.gl/ZOm4N

One is steel and another is aluminum.

I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
matter?

I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.

i

a) you'll get more money for the Al wrench, and seeing as how you're
not lugging it all over the place every day, the extra weight of the
iron wrench shouldn't be a problem. The Al wrench is plenty strong.

b) If it was me, I'd keep both. I did a minor change to the steam
heating pipes in my house and thought I'd be OK with one 24" and one
36" wrench. I would have been way better off with a pair of 36"
wrenches.


Thanks. I have a 14", 24", and now I have a 36" one. I think that I
will be OK with just one 36 incher.

i

On 7/13/2011 4:06 PM, Ignoramus23641 wrote:
....
Thanks. I have a 14", 24", and now I have a 36" one. I think that I
will be OK with just one 36 incher.
....

I can't count otomh them, but if you don't want it, send it here; I'll
find a time it will undoubtedly be used....

--

On Jul 13, 11:37*am, Ignoramus23641 ignoramus23...@NOSPAM.
23641.invalid wrote:
I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:

*http://goo.gl/ZOm4N

One is steel and another is aluminum.

I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
matter?

I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.

i

If I had to only have one, it'd be the aluminum one, just because of
the weight. But you really need two if you're doing plumbing, you
HAVE to have a backing wrench unless you like twisting fittings off.
For barring stuff over where I've got a huge nut or flats, I've got a
wagon nut wrench, similar to a monkey wrench. Doesn't leave divots
like a pipe wrench will. You'll see them at farm auctions, they
usually go for little or nothing in a bucket with similar tools. A
crescent wrench kind of does the same job, but the wagon nut wrench is
a lot heftier and not so prone to shift size by itself.

Stan

On 2011-07-14, Larry W wrote:
In article ,
HeyBub wrote:
...snipped...
Hmm.

If subject to too much torque, the aluminum wrench will bend, the iron
wrench will break. "Too much" is probably greater for the cast iron wrench.
How much greater, I know not, nor whether it matters in the real world.



Your conjecture seems logical but real-world experience is the opposite.
The aluminum wrenches will break, the "iron" ones will bend. We commonly
call them "iron" but I believe they are actually forged steel. Possibly
malleable or ductile cast iron would make a passable wrench, but not
common cast iron. Especially for a pipe wrench, one of the most-abused tools
there is. Cheater bars, slugging the handle with a hammer,(or another
pipe wrench!) pulling handle with a come-a-long, etc. I've seen plenty
of them bend, but few break. The aluminum wrenches will break far
more readily.

I believe that the iron ones are ductile cast iron. They do bend. My
iron one is slightly bent.

i

"Ignoramus23641" wrote in message
...
I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:

http://goo.gl/ZOm4N

One is steel and another is aluminum.

I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
matter?

I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.

i

I'd keep the aluminum. So much easier to lug a round where you are working,
etc.

"Ignoramus23641" wrote in message
...
I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:

http://goo.gl/ZOm4N

One is steel and another is aluminum.

I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
matter?

I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.


Who gives a **** unless they have to pack it around with them from job site
to job site.

Here's the deal...pipe wrench jaws DO wear out over time and they get dull
and then they slip, eventually you throw either them away or you buy new
jaws for them if they're available.

--so, my advice is that since they are both made by Ridgid would be to just
keep the one whose jaws aren't already all ****ed up and sell the other one.

That said, sometimes you actually DO need two LARGE pipe wrenches to do a
job--I know this because it has personally happened exactly twice during my
lifetime....

I am just an amateur home plumber too, but I do see that the aluminum
wrenches command higher prices. They are a lot easier to lug around. I
doubt you would ever be able to break or bend either.

Maybe so; maybe no.

If a pipe wrench isn't quite long enough, folks find a section of
galvanized pipe to increase the leverage.

Reasonable qualify steel is stronger that most aluminum.

If you don't use either tool routinely the weight doesn't make much
difference. Were I the OP, I would "sell" the aluminum wrench; it
would likely fetch more money and the steel wrench would likely tolerate
abuse like using a galvanized pipe to increase the leverage.

On 2011-07-13, Vic Smith wrote:
On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 11:05:55 -0700 (PDT), rangerssuck
wrote:


I agree with everything you said except the last item. Getting 1 1/2"
iron steam pipe unstuck would simply not have happened if I had a
wrench shhorter than 36". If I ever have to do this again, I would
consider renting a pair of 48" wrenches.

I used a 36" on a 4" heating system header with no real problem.
After I put a 6' cheater pipe on it, making it about a 96".

Which suggests that the ferrous one would be preferred to the
aluminum one if you are going to put that big a cheater pipe on it.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 20:44:39 -0700, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:


"Ignoramus23641" wrote in message
m...
I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:

http://goo.gl/ZOm4N

One is steel and another is aluminum.

I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
matter?

I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.


Who gives a **** unless they have to pack it around with them from job site
to job site.

Here's the deal...pipe wrench jaws DO wear out over time and they get dull
and then they slip, eventually you throw either them away or you buy new
jaws for them if they're available.

--so, my advice is that since they are both made by Ridgid would be to just
keep the one whose jaws aren't already all ****ed up and sell the other one.

That said, sometimes you actually DO need two LARGE pipe wrenches to do a
job--I know this because it has personally happened exactly twice during my
lifetime....

Once, about 50 years ago, I found a need to use three pipe wrenches on
a single length of pipe. I set them up in tripod formation to act as a
pipe vise which was not available.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

On 2011-07-14, PrecisionmachinisT wrote:

"Ignoramus23641" wrote in message
...
I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:

http://goo.gl/ZOm4N

One is steel and another is aluminum.

I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
matter?

I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.


Who gives a **** unless they have to pack it around with them from job site
to job site.

Here's the deal...pipe wrench jaws DO wear out over time and they get dull
and then they slip, eventually you throw either them away or you buy new
jaws for them if they're available.

--so, my advice is that since they are both made by Ridgid would be to just
keep the one whose jaws aren't already all ****ed up and sell the other one.

That said, sometimes you actually DO need two LARGE pipe wrenches to do a
job--I know this because it has personally happened exactly twice during my
lifetime....



Besides the wrenches, I brought home a big box with a bunch of Ridgid
parts, and specifically brand new movable jaws and heels. The ones I
have are for 14 inch and 24 inch pipe wrenches.

After looking at all my wrenches, and cleaning the jaws of the 36
inchers, I have decided that all their jaws are in a serviceable
condition, and do not warrant replacement.

(I also have a shipload of Rigid threading die replacementss).

i

Larry W wrote:
In article ,
HeyBub wrote:
...snipped...
Hmm.

If subject to too much torque, the aluminum wrench will bend, the
iron wrench will break. "Too much" is probably greater for the cast
iron wrench. How much greater, I know not, nor whether it matters in
the real world.



Your conjecture seems logical but real-world experience is the
opposite. The aluminum wrenches will break, the "iron" ones will
bend. We commonly call them "iron" but I believe they are actually
forged steel. Possibly malleable or ductile cast iron would make a
passable wrench, but not
common cast iron. Especially for a pipe wrench, one of the
most-abused tools there is. Cheater bars, slugging the handle with a
hammer,(or another
pipe wrench!) pulling handle with a come-a-long, etc. I've seen plenty
of them bend, but few break. The aluminum wrenches will break far
more readily.

I didn't know that. Thanks for the correction.

"Ignoramus23641" wrote in message
...
I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:

http://goo.gl/ZOm4N

One is steel and another is aluminum.

I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
matter?

I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.

I


I have both aluminum and steel wrenches. For direct hand power only I
prefer the aluminum. If I need to add a 6-8 foot cheater bar like to turn
an axle on a stuck moss in a cotton gin I would go with the steel hands
down. For plumbing around the house I always reach for the aluminum ones.

P.S. Anybody besides me ever try to unstick a stuck moss during a cotton
fire to get the burning material out and save the screens?

On Jul 13, 10:44*pm, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:
"Ignoramus23641" wrote in message

...

I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:

*http://goo.gl/ZOm4N

One is steel and another is aluminum.

I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
matter?

I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.

Who gives a **** unless they have to pack it around with them from job site
to job site.

Here's the deal...pipe wrench jaws DO wear out over time and they get dull
and then they slip, eventually you throw either them away or you buy new
jaws for them if they're available.

--so, my advice is that since they are both made by Ridgid would be to just
keep the one whose jaws aren't already all ****ed up and sell the other one.

That said, sometimes you actually DO need two LARGE pipe wrenches to do a
job--I know this because it has personally happened exactly twice during my
lifetime....

I have a set of smooth jaws for my larger wrenches that are used when
I want to minimize damage to the item being adjusted.

TMT

"Ignoramus23641" wrote in message
...
I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:

http://goo.gl/ZOm4N

One is steel and another is aluminum.

I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
matter?

I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.

i

You already know the answer to this, you just don't know you
know..............

Look at both of them. Which one looks the best?

Keep that one.

If it is Ridgid, that is like keeping a Starrett tool. It's a no brainer.

And keep in mind in the future for that ONE time when you will actually need
two 36" wrenches, and it will pay for all the time it has sat in the
corner........... For a lot of years, I had a 36" Crescent wrench I got
from my Dad. It got lots of comments regarding overkill, but when you
needed it, nothing else would do.

Unless you are a plumber reefing on pipes all day, even the cheap Chinese
stuff will work. But if you can get a deal on a quality tool, that's good,
too.

Just a thought from my humble experiences.

Steve

Heart surgery pending?
www.heartsurgerysurvivalguide.com
Heart Surgery Survival Guide

On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 08:59:37 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Ignoramus23641" wrote in message
m...
I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:

http://goo.gl/ZOm4N

One is steel and another is aluminum.

I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
matter?

I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.

I


I have both aluminum and steel wrenches. For direct hand power only I
prefer the aluminum. If I need to add a 6-8 foot cheater bar like to turn
an axle on a stuck moss in a cotton gin I would go with the steel hands
down. For plumbing around the house I always reach for the aluminum ones.

P.S. Anybody besides me ever try to unstick a stuck moss during a cotton
fire to get the burning material out and save the screens?



Closest i came is a fire in a large round hay baler. Tried to save the
baler and lost it. Did manage to disconnect and save the tractor. Went
on to lose 35 acres of wind rowed and large hay bales.

That was 40 years ago. I still carry a 100# inverted LP tank filled
with water and compressed air with a water hose and nozzle when ever
using any machine processing dry hay/straw.

Karl

On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 08:59:37 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Ignoramus23641" wrote in message
m...
I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:

http://goo.gl/ZOm4N

One is steel and another is aluminum.

I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
matter?

I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.

I


I have both aluminum and steel wrenches. For direct hand power only I
prefer the aluminum. If I need to add a 6-8 foot cheater bar like to turn
an axle on a stuck moss in a cotton gin I would go with the steel hands
down. For plumbing around the house I always reach for the aluminum ones.

I agree. And I live and have worked in the oil fields



P.S. Anybody besides me ever try to unstick a stuck moss during a cotton
fire to get the burning material out and save the screens?




Whenever a Liberal utters the term "Common Sense approach"....grab your
wallet, your ass, and your guns because the sombitch is about to do
something damned nasty to all three of them.

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...

That was 40 years ago. I still carry a 100# inverted LP tank filled
with water and compressed air with a water hose and nozzle when ever
using any machine processing dry hay/straw.


Would one of those pressure tanks for wells work better ?
Just charge it up close attached (by you) faucet and you're ready to go.

D.A. Tsenuf wrote:
"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...

That was 40 years ago. I still carry a 100# inverted LP tank filled
with water and compressed air with a water hose and nozzle when ever
using any machine processing dry hay/straw.


Would one of those pressure tanks for wells work better ?
Just charge it up close attached (by you) faucet and you're ready to
go.

There are no faucets in the middle of a hay field.

There are often rabbits. Perhaps that was what you were thinking about?

"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
D.A. Tsenuf wrote:
"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...

That was 40 years ago. I still carry a 100# inverted LP tank filled
with water and compressed air with a water hose and nozzle when ever
using any machine processing dry hay/straw.


Would one of those pressure tanks for wells work better ?
Just charge it up close attached (by you) faucet and you're ready to
go.

There are no faucets in the middle of a hay field.

There are often rabbits. Perhaps that was what you were thinking about?


sigh
1) Install a garden hose faucet on the pressure tank
2) Connect to faucet house on house system
3) Charge tank
4) Disconnect from house system,

When water is needed open faucet on tank..
(Pressure in tank will make water come out...)

"D.A. Tsenuf" wrote in message
.. .
"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
D.A. Tsenuf wrote:
"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...

That was 40 years ago. I still carry a 100# inverted LP tank filled
with water and compressed air with a water hose and nozzle when ever
using any machine processing dry hay/straw.


Would one of those pressure tanks for wells work better ?
Just charge it up close attached (by you) faucet and you're ready to
go.

There are no faucets in the middle of a hay field.

There are often rabbits. Perhaps that was what you were thinking about?


sigh
1) Install a garden hose faucet on the pressure tank
2) Connect to faucet house on house system
3) Charge tank
4) Disconnect from house system,

When water is needed open faucet on tank..
(Pressure in tank will make water come out...)

Think about it. If you put ONLY water in the tank, AND USING WATER ONLY TO
PRESSURIZE THE TANK, what kind of pressure would you then have to add that
would make all the water come out when needed? Remember, water is not
compressible. If I figure it right, either very little pressure could be
added to the tank to make the water flow out, and not even the contents of
the tank would dump entirely, or the tank would rupture under the pressure.

Now, take the same tank. Fill it 80% full of water. Add air to the tank's
airspace. What pressure would you have to add to make all the water flow
out driven by the air? Any math hounds here that can say? I'd say that it
would be a very low amount of pressure to empty the tank, and more pressure
if you wanted to spray with authority.

My point is that the GAS is the important part of the equation, and the
second poster seems to be saying it is the water that is charging the tank.
I say it is the compressed air.

Class?

Class?

Steve

"Steve B" wrote in message
...

"D.A. Tsenuf" wrote in message
.. .
"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
D.A. Tsenuf wrote:
"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...

That was 40 years ago. I still carry a 100# inverted LP tank filled
with water and compressed air with a water hose and nozzle when ever
using any machine processing dry hay/straw.


Would one of those pressure tanks for wells work better ?
Just charge it up close attached (by you) faucet and you're ready to
go.

There are no faucets in the middle of a hay field.

There are often rabbits. Perhaps that was what you were thinking about?


sigh
1) Install a garden hose faucet on the pressure tank
2) Connect to faucet house on house system
3) Charge tank
4) Disconnect from house system,

When water is needed open faucet on tank..
(Pressure in tank will make water come out...)

Think about it. If you put ONLY water in the tank, AND USING WATER ONLY
TO PRESSURIZE THE TANK, what kind of pressure would you then have to add
that would make all the water come out when needed? Remember, water is
not compressible. If I figure it right, either very little pressure could
be added to the tank to make the water flow out, and not even the contents
of the tank would dump entirely, or the tank would rupture under the
pressure.

Now, take the same tank. Fill it 80% full of water. Add air to the
tank's airspace. What pressure would you have to add to make all the
water flow out driven by the air? Any math hounds here that can say? I'd
say that it would be a very low amount of pressure to empty the tank, and
more pressure if you wanted to spray with authority.

My point is that the GAS is the important part of the equation, and the
second poster seems to be saying it is the water that is charging the
tank. I say it is the compressed air.

Class?

Class?

Steve

sigh
So you don't even know what a "pressure tank", used in a well system is ?
Why don't you look it up and then come back to us...


(what a maroon)...

"D.A. Tsenuf" wrote

So you don't even know what a "pressure tank", used in a well system is ?
Why don't you look it up and then come back to us...


(what a maroon)...

Well, I always thought that in order for a pressure tank to work, there had
to be some room for the pressure. Since most liquids are not compressible,
that would require an airspace or a tank that expands, at least according to
my thinking. IIRC, a lot of tanks have bladders or airspaces. I do know
that air hammer reliefs are common to deal with air in water systems.

You have also gotten way away from the original topic, that being of how to
pressurize a tank for remote use. You say that you can just put pressure in
there with no air space. I say that the tank would burst before it could
hold enough pressure to even void itself of its contents.

Perhaps you could share some of your infinite knowledge, providing you are
educated enough to put your thoughts into words so that we of the unwashed
rabble might read them and ponder your take on this. OR, you could quote
this entire conversation with no snippage, just scores of lines of
discussion with a two sentence reply that offers no information whatsoever
on the original question, indicating either a lack of knowledge of the
subject, or a lack of knowledge of how to conduct a social conversation.
Your pick, Sparky.

Now, I could be entirely wrong. And I would much rather hear you explaining
why I am wrong, and what the correct answer is than using insults or words
that I do not comprehend.

What is a maroon? I mean, I know it is an adjective to describe color, but
I have not seen it used as a noun. Maybe you will get to that in next
year's English, provided you take another year of English.

You may (or may not) notice above that is what I have done in answer to your
adolescent response to my request for clarification of this concept. You
will notice I am asking for other's opinions, a common thing for intelligent
sensible educated people to do. I was also asking for more information, and
an explanation.

Steve

On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 04:49:21 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"D.A. Tsenuf" wrote

So you don't even know what a "pressure tank", used in a well system is ?
Why don't you look it up and then come back to us...


(what a maroon)...

Well, I always thought that in order for a pressure tank to work, there had
to be some room for the pressure. Since most liquids are not compressible,
that would require an airspace or a tank that expands, at least according to
my thinking. IIRC, a lot of tanks have bladders or airspaces. I do know
that air hammer reliefs are common to deal with air in water systems.

You have also gotten way away from the original topic, that being of how to
pressurize a tank for remote use. You say that you can just put pressure in
there with no air space. I say that the tank would burst before it could
hold enough pressure to even void itself of its contents.

Perhaps you could share some of your infinite knowledge, providing you are
educated enough to put your thoughts into words so that we of the unwashed
rabble might read them and ponder your take on this. OR, you could quote
this entire conversation with no snippage, just scores of lines of
discussion with a two sentence reply that offers no information whatsoever
on the original question, indicating either a lack of knowledge of the
subject, or a lack of knowledge of how to conduct a social conversation.
Your pick, Sparky.

Now, I could be entirely wrong. And I would much rather hear you explaining
why I am wrong, and what the correct answer is than using insults or words
that I do not comprehend.

What is a maroon? I mean, I know it is an adjective to describe color, but
I have not seen it used as a noun. Maybe you will get to that in next
year's English, provided you take another year of English.

You may (or may not) notice above that is what I have done in answer to your
adolescent response to my request for clarification of this concept. You
will notice I am asking for other's opinions, a common thing for intelligent
sensible educated people to do. I was also asking for more information, and
an explanation.

Steve

I wonder if the poor ******* knows that water is for the most part...
uncompressable?

Which is why there is an air space or membrane in those tanks being
discussed? One doesnt compress the water..one compresses the air..which
pushes the water out.


Gunner

--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.

On 7/19/2011 6:49 AM, Steve B wrote:
"D.A. wrote

So you don't even know what a "pressure tank", used in a well system is ?
Why don't you look it up and then come back to us...


(what a maroon)...

Well, I always thought that in order for a pressure tank to work, there had
to be some room for the pressure....

Well, I've been on the sidelines but I read the original suggestion to
use a pressure tank as exactly that--a charged pressure tank free from
the piping system. One would _presume_ he intended charging the water
side, yes, leaving the air side alone...

I would also tend to presume that's why the suggestion of it might work
better than the simple tank charge used in the posting to which he
responded.

OBTW, the (what a maroon) comes from one of the old, old cartoons--I
forget which character/strip now, but that's the reference...

--

"dpb" wrote in message ...
On 7/19/2011 6:49 AM, Steve B wrote:
"D.A. wrote

So you don't even know what a "pressure tank", used in a well system is
?
Why don't you look it up and then come back to us...


(what a maroon)...

Well, I always thought that in order for a pressure tank to work, there
had
to be some room for the pressure....

Well, I've been on the sidelines but I read the original suggestion to use
a pressure tank as exactly that--a charged pressure tank free from the
piping system. One would _presume_ he intended charging the water side,
yes, leaving the air side alone...

I would also tend to presume that's why the suggestion of it might work
better than the simple tank charge used in the posting to which he
responded.

OBTW, the (what a maroon) comes from one of the old, old cartoons--I
forget which character/strip now, but that's the reference...


Bugs Bunny is the reference to "maroon"...

As to pressure tanks, they are precharged with a bladder.
When water is pumped in the bladder compresses the "pre-charged" air side.
When the water is release the pressure from behind the bladder pushes the
water out.
Eliminates the need to pump air into a simple tank
Can be had an most hardware and farm supply stores in a variety of sizes.

All you do is pump water in.

"Steve B" wrote in message
. ..

"D.A. Tsenuf" wrote

So you don't even know what a "pressure tank", used in a well system is ?
Why don't you look it up and then come back to us...


(what a maroon)...

Well, I googled "how a well pressure tank works", and came up on the first
hit with, " The well pressure tank system works under the principle of gases
can be compressed while liquids cannot. As water fills the tank, ..."

http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/well-pressure-tank/

Now what do I do?

BTW, a google for maroon shows a color, or a race of dark skinned mountain
people. Were you making a racial slur?

Steve

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 04:49:21 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"D.A. Tsenuf" wrote

So you don't even know what a "pressure tank", used in a well system is
?
Why don't you look it up and then come back to us...


(what a maroon)...

Well, I always thought that in order for a pressure tank to work, there
had
to be some room for the pressure. Since most liquids are not
compressible,
that would require an airspace or a tank that expands, at least according
to
my thinking. IIRC, a lot of tanks have bladders or airspaces. I do know
that air hammer reliefs are common to deal with air in water systems.

You have also gotten way away from the original topic, that being of how
to
pressurize a tank for remote use. You say that you can just put pressure
in
there with no air space. I say that the tank would burst before it could
hold enough pressure to even void itself of its contents.

Perhaps you could share some of your infinite knowledge, providing you are
educated enough to put your thoughts into words so that we of the unwashed
rabble might read them and ponder your take on this. OR, you could quote
this entire conversation with no snippage, just scores of lines of
discussion with a two sentence reply that offers no information whatsoever
on the original question, indicating either a lack of knowledge of the
subject, or a lack of knowledge of how to conduct a social conversation.
Your pick, Sparky.

Now, I could be entirely wrong. And I would much rather hear you
explaining
why I am wrong, and what the correct answer is than using insults or words
that I do not comprehend.

What is a maroon? I mean, I know it is an adjective to describe color,
but
I have not seen it used as a noun. Maybe you will get to that in next
year's English, provided you take another year of English.

You may (or may not) notice above that is what I have done in answer to
your
adolescent response to my request for clarification of this concept. You
will notice I am asking for other's opinions, a common thing for
intelligent
sensible educated people to do. I was also asking for more information,
and
an explanation.

Steve

I wonder if the poor ******* knows that water is for the most part...
uncompressable?

Which is why there is an air space or membrane in those tanks being
discussed? One doesnt compress the water..one compresses the air..which
pushes the water out.


Gunner

--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.

Well, not according to THIS maroon.

hehe

Steve

"Steve B" wrote in message
. ..

"D.A. Tsenuf" wrote

So you don't even know what a "pressure tank", used in a well system is ?
Why don't you look it up and then come back to us...


(what a maroon)...

Well, I always thought that in order for a pressure tank to work, there
had to be some room for the pressure. Since most liquids are not
compressible, that would require an airspace or a tank that expands, at
least according to my thinking. IIRC, a lot of tanks have bladders or
airspaces. I do know that air hammer reliefs are common to deal with air
in water systems.


Well there you go
You actually knew the answer all along.
So why spew so much ignorant cant ?

You have also gotten way away from the original topic, that being of how
to pressurize a tank for remote use. You say that you can just put
pressure in there with no air space. I say that the tank would burst
before it could hold enough pressure to even void itself of its contents.


A pressure tank is pre-charged with a bladder separating the wet from the
air side.
I never stated ANYTHING about air space and the rest of your presumptions


Perhaps you could share some of your infinite knowledge, providing you are
educated enough to put your thoughts into words so that we of the unwashed
rabble might read them and ponder your take on this. OR, you could
quote this entire conversation with no snippage, just scores of lines of
discussion with a two sentence reply that offers no information whatsoever
on the original question, indicating either a lack of knowledge of the
subject, or a lack of knowledge of how to conduct a social conversation.
Your pick, Sparky.


I may be a Sparky, but then even a wet match qualifies compared to you.
I am so sorry that you have not discovered to wonders of search engines on
the internet
Why don't you try your faverite one with the following
"precharged pressure tank".
Hell, even just plain "pressure tank" will point you in the right direction.


Now, I could be entirely wrong. And I would much rather hear you
explaining why I am wrong, and what the correct answer is than using
insults or words that I do not comprehend.


I'm so sorry that words like "pressure tank" are beyond your (claimed) ken.




What is a maroon? I mean, I know it is an adjective to describe color,
but I have not seen it used as a noun. Maybe you will get to that in next
year's English, provided you take another year of English.


It's a reference to a quote by a famous cartoon character
As to my education in the Queen's English, it's probably more extensive than
yours.


You may (or may not) notice above that is what I have done in answer to
your adolescent response to my request for clarification of this concept.
You will notice I am asking for other's opinions, a common thing for
intelligent sensible educated people to do. I was also asking for more
information, and an explanation.


You sure use lots of words to state and demonstrate that you're clueless
As to wanting an explanation. That's highly doubtful
People who want info state their problem and then let others do the talking
The exact opposite of what you have done.

Have a nice day.


Oh and thanks for demonstrating that you do qualify for that quote by Bugs
Bunny
"What a maroon" indeed...

"dpb" wrote in message ...
On 7/19/2011 6:49 AM, Steve B wrote:
"D.A. wrote

So you don't even know what a "pressure tank", used in a well system is
?
Why don't you look it up and then come back to us...


(what a maroon)...

Well, I always thought that in order for a pressure tank to work, there
had
to be some room for the pressure....

Well, I've been on the sidelines but I read the original suggestion to use
a pressure tank as exactly that--a charged pressure tank free from the
piping system. One would _presume_ he intended charging the water side,
yes, leaving the air side alone...

I would also tend to presume that's why the suggestion of it might work
better than the simple tank charge used in the posting to which he
responded.

OBTW, the (what a maroon) comes from one of the old, old cartoons--I
forget which character/strip now, but that's the reference...

As I read his post, he seemed to be saying that one could just fill up a
tank with pressure, and then empty it when needed. He mentioned nothing of
any air space. And since a lot of systems only have 50 psi water pressure,
the airspace in there might not be enough to even void the contents of said
container unless the airspace is adequate.

Maroon (people)
Maroons (from the word marronage or American/Spanish cimarrón: "fugitive,
runaway", lit. "living on mountaintops"; from Spanish cima: "top, summit")
were runaway slaves in the West Indies, Central America, South America, and
North America, who formed independent settlements together. The same
designation has also become a derivation for the verb marooning.

Much more to read about them and their history at Wikipedia. However, I do
not believe the poster was referring to this group of people, calling me a
"maroon." I really just think he/she/it could not spell "moron."

Anyway, I seem to be somewhat right on the original point of an air space in
a pressure tank.

Steve

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 04:49:21 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"D.A. Tsenuf" wrote

So you don't even know what a "pressure tank", used in a well system is
?
Why don't you look it up and then come back to us...


(what a maroon)...

Well, I always thought that in order for a pressure tank to work, there
had
to be some room for the pressure. Since most liquids are not
compressible,
that would require an airspace or a tank that expands, at least according
to
my thinking. IIRC, a lot of tanks have bladders or airspaces. I do know
that air hammer reliefs are common to deal with air in water systems.

You have also gotten way away from the original topic, that being of how
to
pressurize a tank for remote use. You say that you can just put pressure
in
there with no air space. I say that the tank would burst before it could
hold enough pressure to even void itself of its contents.

Perhaps you could share some of your infinite knowledge, providing you are
educated enough to put your thoughts into words so that we of the unwashed
rabble might read them and ponder your take on this. OR, you could quote
this entire conversation with no snippage, just scores of lines of
discussion with a two sentence reply that offers no information whatsoever
on the original question, indicating either a lack of knowledge of the
subject, or a lack of knowledge of how to conduct a social conversation.
Your pick, Sparky.

Now, I could be entirely wrong. And I would much rather hear you
explaining
why I am wrong, and what the correct answer is than using insults or words
that I do not comprehend.

What is a maroon? I mean, I know it is an adjective to describe color,
but
I have not seen it used as a noun. Maybe you will get to that in next
year's English, provided you take another year of English.

You may (or may not) notice above that is what I have done in answer to
your
adolescent response to my request for clarification of this concept. You
will notice I am asking for other's opinions, a common thing for
intelligent
sensible educated people to do. I was also asking for more information,
and
an explanation.

Steve

I wonder if the poor ******* knows that water is for the most part...
uncompressable?

Which is why there is an air space or membrane in those tanks being
discussed? One doesnt compress the water..one compresses the air..which
pushes the water out.


There are two ways to charge a tank
Either by having a 2 compartment tank, one wet, one dry separated by a
membrane
The other is the seltzer water approach, where the gas is compressed in
solution with the water.
Either way works
The first only requires that you pump the water in the tank.
The second requires that you fill the tank and then pump it full of some gas

The first is simpler because you can do it with a standard water system.

On 7/19/2011 8:16 AM, Steve B wrote:
....

As I read his post, he seemed to be saying that one could just fill up a
tank with pressure, and then empty it when needed. He mentioned nothing of
any air space. And since a lot of systems only have 50 psi water pressure,
the airspace in there might not be enough to even void the contents of said
container unless the airspace is adequate.

Well, I'll only reply that by referring to "pressure tank" to me it was
quite clear he was referring to a standard well-system diaphragm/bladder
tank that _does_ have (precharged) air space and by calling it a
pressure tank the reference to the airspace is implicit w/o needing to
be explicitly referred to.

As for the content voiding, as long as the pressure is above ambient,
the water will have a positive pressure and be voided, albeit if only
slowly.

With the above presume 50psi, it would start at that and fall almost
directly in proportion to the voided volume (at these pressures, not
much variance from ideal gas) change. So, the smaller the air volume
relative to the contained water, yes, the faster the pressure will drop
to near ambient (or whatever was the precharge pressure if greater than
atmospheric.

Whatever, my take is you're off base in criticism of the poster as being
unaware of what is going on...

....

Much more to read about them and their history at Wikipedia. However, I do
not believe the poster was referring to this group of people, calling me a
"maroon." I really just think he/she/it could not spell "moron."

Well, I think you're missing the intent there, too...


Anyway, I seem to be somewhat right on the original point of an air space in
a pressure tank.
....

Well, yes...your problem w/ the other poster is that he (imo, somewhat
rightfully) took a little peeve at being poked w/ a sharp stick for
little reason...

--