How do I prevent finish nails from bending when I hammer then nails
through pre-drilled holes in quarter-round oak molding into drywall?
(I'm not using a brad-nailer).

gcotterl wrote the following:
How do I prevent finish nails from bending when I hammer then nails
through pre-drilled holes in quarter-round oak molding into drywall?
(I'm not using a brad-nailer).

They have to be nailed straight on, any other angle of the strike
between the hammer and nail can bend them.
They must be struck with lighter hits than thicker nails. More like
tapping them in. That way, if the nails starts to bend, you can stop and
straighten it, or pull it out and reinstall a new nail.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

gcotterl wrote:
How do I prevent finish nails from bending when I hammer then nails
through pre-drilled holes in quarter-round oak molding into drywall?
(I'm not using a brad-nailer).

Use a brad nailer. A perfectly acceptable one is available from HF for under
$20. Once you get a brad nailer, you'll use your hammer for pounding
everything EXCEPT nails.

'Course you'll need a compressor, too.

On Jun 9, 5:45*am, "HeyBub" wrote:
gcotterl wrote:
How do I prevent finish nails from bending when I hammer then nails
through pre-drilled holes in quarter-round oak molding into drywall?
(I'm not using a brad-nailer).

Use a brad nailer. A perfectly acceptable one is available from HF for under
$20. Once you get a brad nailer, you'll use your hammer for pounding
everything EXCEPT nails.

'Course you'll need a compressor, too.

Buying a brad nailer and a compressor doesn't make economic sense
since I have only 26 feet of molding to install.

Getting a good, straight swing with the hammer is hard because I'm
bending over countertops and ducking under wall cabinets.

On Jun 9, 10:00*am, gcotterl wrote:
Buying a brad nailer and a compressor doesn't make economic sense
since I have only 26 feet of molding to install.

Getting a good, straight swing with the hammer is hard because I'm
bending over countertops and ducking under wall cabinets.

You've got 26 feet of molding to install. Suck it up and deal with the
damn bent nails.

On Thu, 9 Jun 2011 07:00:55 -0700 (PDT), gcotterl
wrote:

On Jun 9, 5:45*am, "HeyBub" wrote:
gcotterl wrote:
How do I prevent finish nails from bending when I hammer then nails
through pre-drilled holes in quarter-round oak molding into drywall?
(I'm not using a brad-nailer).

Use a brad nailer. A perfectly acceptable one is available from HF for under
$20. Once you get a brad nailer, you'll use your hammer for pounding
everything EXCEPT nails.

'Course you'll need a compressor, too.

Buying a brad nailer and a compressor doesn't make economic sense
since I have only 26 feet of molding to install.

Getting a good, straight swing with the hammer is hard because I'm
bending over countertops and ducking under wall cabinets.

Shoot down the wall cabinets and bulldoze the countertops.

On Jun 9, 12:43*pm, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 9 Jun 2011 07:00:55 -0700 (PDT), gcotterl

wrote:
and ducking under wall cabinets.

Gives me an ideal. *Use Duck Tape

Do you mean "duct tape" ?

gcotterl wrote:
On Jun 9, 5:45 am, "HeyBub" wrote:
gcotterl wrote:
How do I prevent finish nails from bending when I hammer then nails
through pre-drilled holes in quarter-round oak molding into drywall?
(I'm not using a brad-nailer).

Use a brad nailer. A perfectly acceptable one is available from HF
for under $20. Once you get a brad nailer, you'll use your hammer
for pounding everything EXCEPT nails.

'Course you'll need a compressor, too.

Buying a brad nailer and a compressor doesn't make economic sense
since I have only 26 feet of molding to install.

Okay, get a brad nailer and a compressed air tank. Fill the tank at the gas
station or off a friend's compressor. Tank should cost about $25.00.


Getting a good, straight swing with the hammer is hard because I'm
bending over countertops and ducking under wall cabinets.

All the more reason for a brad nailer, etc. You've got more than $150 worth
of aggravation otherwise.

"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
gcotterl wrote:
How do I prevent finish nails from bending when I hammer then nails
through pre-drilled holes in quarter-round oak molding into drywall?
(I'm not using a brad-nailer).

Use a brad nailer. A perfectly acceptable one is available from HF for
under $20. Once you get a brad nailer, you'll use your hammer for pounding
everything EXCEPT nails.

'Course you'll need a compressor, too.

Bought a new DeWalt with cart and hose the other day at yard sale for $60
.............

Used it already on the back forty for fencing that had to be stapled to
cedar posts. What a joy. The guy working for me even commented that it was
light years ahead of fence staples.

Steve

"gcotterl" wrote in message
...
On Jun 9, 5:45 am, "HeyBub" wrote:
gcotterl wrote:
How do I prevent finish nails from bending when I hammer then nails
through pre-drilled holes in quarter-round oak molding into drywall?
(I'm not using a brad-nailer).

Use a brad nailer. A perfectly acceptable one is available from HF for
under
$20. Once you get a brad nailer, you'll use your hammer for pounding
everything EXCEPT nails.

'Course you'll need a compressor, too.

Buying a brad nailer and a compressor doesn't make economic sense
since I have only 26 feet of molding to install.

Getting a good, straight swing with the hammer is hard because I'm
bending over countertops and ducking under wall cabinets.

reply:

This is when you find the value of the economic sense of buying a tool that
will do the job RIGHT quickly. And future jobs. Pancake compressors can be
had for $50, and nailers for $20-$100. Why putz with anything else?

Steve