I have plastic water piping. I have an outside freeze-proof faucet
connected to this piping that I want to replace. Wouldn't you know
that the male end of the metal faucet threads into the female plastic
pipe such that the result has my faucet bib pointing straight up. When
I back off the connection in order to get the faucet to point
downward, the connection leaks.

I have heard I think that there is a glue or some such that one can
put on the threads in a case like this - let it set (set up) a while -
which will harden and be leak proof. Is there something? Should I
use it?

Thanks

Duke

wrote in message
news
I have plastic water piping. I have an outside freeze-proof faucet
connected to this piping that I want to replace. Wouldn't you know
that the male end of the metal faucet threads into the female
plastic
pipe such that the result has my faucet bib pointing straight up.
When
I back off the connection in order to get the faucet to point
downward, the connection leaks.

I have heard I think that there is a glue or some such that one can
put on the threads in a case like this - let it set (set up) a
while -
which will harden and be leak proof. Is there something? Should I
use it?

Thanks

Duke

Try teflon tape, then pipe joint compound on top of that.

On Sun, 8 May 2011 09:15:59 -0700, "Bill"
wrote:


Try teflon tape, then pipe joint compound on top of that.


Teflon I tried - twice. The compound I did not use.

Duke

On May 8, 12:31*pm, wrote:
On Sun, 8 May 2011 09:15:59 -0700, "Bill"

wrote:

Try teflon tape, then pipe joint compound on top of that.

Teflon I tried - twice. *The compound I did not use.

Duke

Get a Shark Bite connector. A bit more expensive, but since they
swivel, you can point the spigot in any direction you want. Great for
connecting "plastic" (PEX?) to copper.

http://www.sharkbite.com/

On 5/8/2011 11:12 AM, wrote:
I have plastic water piping. I have an outside freeze-proof faucet
connected to this piping that I want to replace. Wouldn't you know
that the male end of the metal faucet threads into the female plastic
pipe such that the result has my faucet bib pointing straight up. When
I back off the connection in order to get the faucet to point
downward, the connection leaks.

I have heard I think that there is a glue or some such that one can
put on the threads in a case like this - let it set (set up) a while -
which will harden and be leak proof. Is there something? Should I
use it?

Hard to imagine can't get another half-turn w/ plastic...

--

dpb wrote:
On 5/8/2011 11:12 AM, wrote:
I have plastic water piping. I have an outside freeze-proof faucet
connected to this piping that I want to replace. Wouldn't you know
that the male end of the metal faucet threads into the female plastic
pipe such that the result has my faucet bib pointing straight up.
When I back off the connection in order to get the faucet to point
downward, the connection leaks.

I have heard I think that there is a glue or some such that one can
put on the threads in a case like this - let it set (set up) a while
- which will harden and be leak proof. Is there something? Should I
use it?

Hard to imagine can't get another half-turn w/ plastic...

You can, but the plastic is guaranteed to split.

I don't believe PVC female fittings, without a rubber washer seal, are
recommended these days.

OP - replace the female fitting with a union having metal threads on the output
end.

On 5/8/2011 2:00 PM, Bob F wrote:
dpb wrote:
On 5/8/2011 11:12 AM, wrote:
I have plastic water piping. I have an outside freeze-proof faucet
connected to this piping that I want to replace. Wouldn't you know
that the male end of the metal faucet threads into the female plastic
pipe such that the result has my faucet bib pointing straight up.
When I back off the connection in order to get the faucet to point
downward, the connection leaks.

I have heard I think that there is a glue or some such that one can
put on the threads in a case like this - let it set (set up) a while
- which will harden and be leak proof. Is there something? Should I
use it?

Hard to imagine can't get another half-turn w/ plastic...

You can, but the plastic is guaranteed to split.
....

Well, it was leaking anyway so the other foolishness wasn't going to
help...

When (and if) it does, switch the sex on the replacement...

--

dpb wrote:
On 5/8/2011 11:12 AM, wrote:
I have plastic water piping. I have an outside freeze-proof faucet
connected to this piping that I want to replace. Wouldn't you know
that the male end of the metal faucet threads into the female plastic
pipe such that the result has my faucet bib pointing straight up. When
I back off the connection in order to get the faucet to point
downward, the connection leaks.

I have heard I think that there is a glue or some such that one can
put on the threads in a case like this - let it set (set up) a while -
which will harden and be leak proof. Is there something? Should I
use it?

Hard to imagine can't get another half-turn w/ plastic...

--
Hmmm,
I'll say. I have two frost free faucet out at my cabin. When one
bursted, I ran into same problem. The faucet probably has marking
pointing top side. Careful use of Teflon tape did the trick.

On May 8, 9:12*am, wrote:
I have plastic water piping. *I have an outside freeze-proof faucet
connected to this piping that I want to replace. *Wouldn't you know
that the male end of the metal faucet threads into the female plastic
pipe such that the result has my faucet bib pointing straight up. When
I back off the connection in order to get the faucet to point
downward, the connection leaks.

I have heard I think that there is a glue or some such that one can
put on the threads in a case like this - let it set (set up) a while -
which will harden and be leak proof. *Is there something? *Should I
use it?

Thanks

Duke

IME, overtightening causes most problems with plastic/metal
connectors. Undo it, clean off anything you have applied, 2 or 3
layers of teflon tape and snug it up but don't overtighten.

Harry K

On May 8, 5:12*pm, wrote:
I have plastic water piping. *I have an outside freeze-proof faucet
connected to this piping that I want to replace. *Wouldn't you know
that the male end of the metal faucet threads into the female plastic
pipe such that the result has my faucet bib pointing straight up. When
I back off the connection in order to get the faucet to point
downward, the connection leaks.

I have heard I think that there is a glue or some such that one can
put on the threads in a case like this - let it set (set up) a while -
which will harden and be leak proof. *Is there something? *Should I
use it?

Thanks

Duke

You need a fibre washer to make up the thickness.

Or, more old fashioned, hemp and jointing paste.

Or, if you can get one an, O ring if the pressure is not too great.

Or wind a pile of PTFE tape on to the pipe thread.

On May 9, 2:28*am, harry wrote:
On May 8, 5:12*pm, wrote:

I have plastic water piping. *I have an outside freeze-proof faucet
connected to this piping that I want to replace. *Wouldn't you know
that the male end of the metal faucet threads into the female plastic
pipe such that the result has my faucet bib pointing straight up. When
I back off the connection in order to get the faucet to point
downward, the connection leaks.

I have heard I think that there is a glue or some such that one can
put on the threads in a case like this - let it set (set up) a while -
which will harden and be leak proof. *Is there something? *Should I
use it?

Thanks

Duke

You need a fibre washer to make up the thickness.

Or, more old fashioned, hemp and jointing paste.

Or, if you can get one an, O ring if the pressure is not too great.

Or wind a pile of PTFE tape on to the pipe thread.

Or cut the plastic pipe. Thread it on the faucet. Then glue the
plastic back together with a union and the faucet pointed down.

I do prefer to only use plastic male and not plastic female. Plastic
female do crack sometimes when over tightened. You could add a metal
threaded union to the mix and switch the platsic end to male.

On Mon, 9 May 2011 05:13:16 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:


Or cut the plastic pipe. Thread it on the faucet. Then glue the
plastic back together with a union and the faucet pointed down.

That sounds good to me!

Thanks

Duke

On May 9, 2:28*am, harry wrote:
On May 8, 5:12*pm, wrote:

I have plastic water piping. *I have an outside freeze-proof faucet
connected to this piping that I want to replace. *Wouldn't you know
that the male end of the metal faucet threads into the female plastic
pipe such that the result has my faucet bib pointing straight up. When
I back off the connection in order to get the faucet to point
downward, the connection leaks.

I have heard I think that there is a glue or some such that one can
put on the threads in a case like this - let it set (set up) a while -
which will harden and be leak proof. *Is there something? *Should I
use it?

Thanks

Duke

You need a fibre washer to make up the thickness.


You don't use fibre washers on tapered threaded pipe fittings.


Or, more old fashioned, hemp and jointing paste.

Hemp is for smoking.



Or, if you can get one an, O ring if the pressure is not too great.

You don't use O rings on tapered threaded pipe fittings.

I'd try getting another half turn on the fitting. If that doesn't
work
then just cut out the existing PVC and start with a new piece
of PVC and female adaptor. Or you could end the new piece
with threads and use a metal coupling to join the sill cock
to it..



Or wind a pile of PTFE tape on to the pipe thread.

On May 9, 4:24*pm, "
wrote:
On May 9, 2:28*am, harry wrote:





On May 8, 5:12*pm, wrote:

I have plastic water piping. *I have an outside freeze-proof faucet
connected to this piping that I want to replace. *Wouldn't you know
that the male end of the metal faucet threads into the female plastic
pipe such that the result has my faucet bib pointing straight up. When
I back off the connection in order to get the faucet to point
downward, the connection leaks.

I have heard I think that there is a glue or some such that one can
put on the threads in a case like this - let it set (set up) a while -
which will harden and be leak proof. *Is there something? *Should I
use it?

Thanks

Duke

You need a fibre washer to make up the thickness.

You don't use fibre washers on tapered threaded pipe fittings.

Or, more old fashioned, hemp and jointing paste.

Hemp is for smoking.



Or, if you can get one an, O ring if the pressure is not too great.

You don't use O rings on tapered *threaded pipe fittings.

I'd try getting another half turn on the fitting. *If that doesn't
work
then just cut out the existing PVC and start with a new piece
of PVC and female adaptor. *Or you could end the new piece
with threads and use a metal coupling to join the sill cock
to it..





Or wind a pile of PTFE tape on to the pipe thread.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Who says it's tapered?

On May 9, 10:53*am, harry wrote:
On May 9, 4:24*pm, "
wrote:





On May 9, 2:28*am, harry wrote:

On May 8, 5:12*pm, wrote:

I have plastic water piping. *I have an outside freeze-proof faucet
connected to this piping that I want to replace. *Wouldn't you know
that the male end of the metal faucet threads into the female plastic
pipe such that the result has my faucet bib pointing straight up. When
I back off the connection in order to get the faucet to point
downward, the connection leaks.

I have heard I think that there is a glue or some such that one can
put on the threads in a case like this - let it set (set up) a while -
which will harden and be leak proof. *Is there something? *Should I
use it?

Thanks

Duke

You need a fibre washer to make up the thickness.

You don't use fibre washers on tapered threaded pipe fittings.

Or, more old fashioned, hemp and jointing paste.

Hemp is for smoking.

Or, if you can get one an, O ring if the pressure is not too great.

You don't use O rings on tapered *threaded pipe fittings.

I'd try getting another half turn on the fitting. *If that doesn't
work
then just cut out the existing PVC and start with a new piece
of PVC and female adaptor. *Or you could end the new piece
with threads and use a metal coupling to join the sill cock
to it..

Or wind a pile of PTFE tape on to the pipe thread.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Who says it's tapered?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Pipe, unless very unusual plumbing, = pipe thread = tapered.

Your suggestions got exactly respect they deserved, i.e., none.

Harry K

wrote:
On Mon, 9 May 2011 05:13:16 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:


Or cut the plastic pipe. Thread it on the faucet. Then glue the
plastic back together with a union and the faucet pointed down.

That sounds good to me!

Another possibility I have occasionally had luck with. Unscrew the fitting into
the plastic female thread. Tighten a hose clamp tightly around the female
fitting. Then, with proper pipe dope, screw the male fitting back in.

On Wed, 11 May 2011 13:18:39 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:


Another possibility I have occasionally had luck with. Unscrew the fitting into
the plastic female thread. Tighten a hose clamp tightly around the female
fitting. Then, with proper pipe dope, screw the male fitting back in.



Sounds plausible too. I will try the prior suggestion first, and if
that fails then maybe yours. But then again, if I do that, I probably
cannot do it your way,

Thanks

On May 11, 4:17*pm, wrote:
On Wed, 11 May 2011 13:18:39 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

Another possibility I have occasionally had luck with. Unscrew the fitting into
the plastic female thread. Tighten a hose clamp tightly around the female
fitting. Then, with proper pipe dope, screw the male fitting back in.

Sounds plausible too. *I will try the prior suggestion first, and if
that fails then maybe yours. *But then again, if I do that, I probably
cannot do it your way,

Thanks

Just remember _don't overtighten_ I have the entire house done in PVC/
CPVC plus all underground feeds to standpipes. There isn't one
connection anywhere in it where I wouldn't be able to force anohter
1/2 turn. None of them have ever leaked excepted on female PVC/iron
adapter that cracked - I learned there never, ever use a female
plastic/iron adapter.

Harry K

On May 12, 9:55*am, Harry K wrote:
On May 11, 4:17*pm, wrote:

On Wed, 11 May 2011 13:18:39 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

Another possibility I have occasionally had luck with. Unscrew the fitting into
the plastic female thread. Tighten a hose clamp tightly around the female
fitting. Then, with proper pipe dope, screw the male fitting back in.

Sounds plausible too. *I will try the prior suggestion first, and if
that fails then maybe yours. *But then again, if I do that, I probably
cannot do it your way,

Thanks

Just remember _don't overtighten_ *I have the entire house done in PVC/
CPVC plus all underground feeds to standpipes. *There isn't one
connection anywhere in it where I wouldn't be able to force anohter
1/2 turn. *None of them have ever leaked excepted on female PVC/iron
adapter that cracked - I learned there never, ever use a female
plastic/iron adapter.

Harry K

That's good advice. I've cracked female platsic fittings myself. My
lake house is plumbed with all cpvc/pvc. It has been fine as well.
When I have a threaded connection to make I use teflon pipe dope and
make the threaded connection first. Then glue the plastic.