Hi,

I have recently purchased a Honeywell wireless thermostat
(YTH6320R1015). Manual is here, page 4 is key:
http://www.pexuniverse.com/docs/pdf/...-guide-efs.pdf


I have split setup: A gas boiler in the basement (2-conductor thermostat
wire). My relatively modern Bryant AC unit is in the attic. I therefore
have two transformers. (For what it's worth, I've made sure they have
the same phase.)

I would like to control both systems with my thermostat. Honeywell tech
reps all agree that this must be possible, but give me contradictory
instructions. After several exchanges they seem to come to an agreement
that I might need a third transformer just to power the unit
independently from the transformers in my systems.

Does that make sense or could there be an easier solution!

Many many thanks in advance!

Sam

"Sam Takoy" wrote in message ...

Hi,

I have recently purchased a Honeywell wireless thermostat (YTH6320R1015).
Manual is here, page 4 is key:
http://www.pexuniverse.com/docs/pdf/...-guide-efs.pdf


I have split setup: A gas boiler in the basement (2-conductor thermostat
wire). My relatively modern Bryant AC unit is in the attic. I therefore
have two transformers. (For what it's worth, I've made sure they have the
same phase.)

I would like to control both systems with my thermostat. Honeywell tech
reps all agree that this must be possible, but give me contradictory
instructions. After several exchanges they seem to come to an agreement
that I might need a third transformer just to power the unit independently
from the transformers in my systems.

Does that make sense or could there be an easier solution!

Many many thanks in advance!

Sam


Remove the jumper from Rc, Rh and R.
Rc for cool transformer.
Rh for heat transformer.
Then simply jumper off ONE of those to power the stat itself.

-Brian

"Sam Takoy" wrote in message ...

Hi,

I have recently purchased a Honeywell wireless thermostat (YTH6320R1015).
Manual is here, page 4 is key:
http://www.pexuniverse.com/docs/pdf/...-guide-efs.pdf


I have split setup: A gas boiler in the basement (2-conductor thermostat
wire). My relatively modern Bryant AC unit is in the attic. I therefore
have two transformers. (For what it's worth, I've made sure they have the
same phase.)

I would like to control both systems with my thermostat. Honeywell tech
reps all agree that this must be possible, but give me contradictory
instructions. After several exchanges they seem to come to an agreement
that I might need a third transformer just to power the unit independently
from the transformers in my systems.

Does that make sense or could there be an easier solution!

Many many thanks in advance!

Sam


Remove the jumper from Rc, Rh and R.
Rc for cool transformer.
Rh for heat transformer.
Then simply jumper off ONE of those to power the stat itself.

-Brian

"Sam Takoy" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have recently purchased a Honeywell wireless thermostat (YTH6320R1015).
Manual is here, page 4 is key:
http://www.pexuniverse.com/docs/pdf/...-guide-efs.pdf


I have split setup: A gas boiler in the basement (2-conductor thermostat
wire). My relatively modern Bryant AC unit is in the attic. I therefore
have two transformers. (For what it's worth, I've made sure they have the
same phase.)

I would like to control both systems with my thermostat. Honeywell tech
reps all agree that this must be possible, but give me contradictory
instructions. After several exchanges they seem to come to an agreement
that I might need a third transformer just to power the unit independently
from the transformers in my systems.

Does that make sense or could there be an easier solution!

Many many thanks in advance!

Sam

I don't see an issue. The "EIM" needs power (24 volt). It could be powered
by either transformer. Choose one. If you locate the EIM in the attic, power
the R and RC and C, from the air handler. Remove the existing jumper, which
is between R-RH-RC, from RH, which will be powered from the heating system.
The two wires go to RH and W O/B. If you want to install the EIM in the
basement, you can power the device from that transformer by removing the RC
from the jumper.

Naah, doesn't make sense to put in a third transformer. Most
stats are designed for two transformer system, right out of
the box.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Sam Takoy" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have recently purchased a Honeywell wireless thermostat
(YTH6320R1015). Manual is here, page 4 is key:
http://www.pexuniverse.com/docs/pdf/...-guide-efs.pdf


I have split setup: A gas boiler in the basement
(2-conductor thermostat
wire). My relatively modern Bryant AC unit is in the attic.
I therefore
have two transformers. (For what it's worth, I've made sure
they have
the same phase.)

I would like to control both systems with my thermostat.
Honeywell tech
reps all agree that this must be possible, but give me
contradictory
instructions. After several exchanges they seem to come to
an agreement
that I might need a third transformer just to power the unit
independently from the transformers in my systems.

Does that make sense or could there be an easier solution!

Many many thanks in advance!

Sam

Brian V wrote:
"Sam Takoy" wrote in message ...

Hi,

I have recently purchased a Honeywell wireless thermostat
(YTH6320R1015). Manual is here, page 4 is key:
http://www.pexuniverse.com/docs/pdf/...-guide-efs.pdf



I have split setup: A gas boiler in the basement (2-conductor
thermostat wire). My relatively modern Bryant AC unit is in the attic.
I therefore have two transformers. (For what it's worth, I've made
sure they have the same phase.)

I would like to control both systems with my thermostat. Honeywell
tech reps all agree that this must be possible, but give me
contradictory instructions. After several exchanges they seem to come
to an agreement that I might need a third transformer just to power
the unit independently from the transformers in my systems.

Does that make sense or could there be an easier solution!

Many many thanks in advance!

Sam


Remove the jumper from Rc, Rh and R.
Rc for cool transformer.
Rh for heat transformer.
Then simply jumper off ONE of those to power the stat itself.

-Brian
Gug? I thought Tc is R common, Rh is R for humidifier.

RBM wrote:
"Sam wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have recently purchased a Honeywell wireless thermostat (YTH6320R1015).
Manual is here, page 4 is key:
http://www.pexuniverse.com/docs/pdf/...-guide-efs.pdf


I have split setup: A gas boiler in the basement (2-conductor thermostat
wire). My relatively modern Bryant AC unit is in the attic. I therefore
have two transformers. (For what it's worth, I've made sure they have the
same phase.)

I would like to control both systems with my thermostat. Honeywell tech
reps all agree that this must be possible, but give me contradictory
instructions. After several exchanges they seem to come to an agreement
that I might need a third transformer just to power the unit independently
from the transformers in my systems.

Does that make sense or could there be an easier solution!

Many many thanks in advance!

Sam

I don't see an issue. The "EIM" needs power (24 volt). It could be powered
by either transformer. Choose one. If you locate the EIM in the attic, power
the R and RC and C, from the air handler. Remove the existing jumper, which
is between R-RH-RC, from RH, which will be powered from the heating system.
The two wires go to RH and W O/B. If you want to install the EIM in the
basement, you can power the device from that transformer by removing the RC
from the jumper.


Hi,
I have a Honeywell wireless set up. Like wise needs only one 24V source
because it is present all the time. Just hook up control leads from both
neating/cooling properly. My unit is about 5 years old never was any
trouble other than replacing batteries on the 'stat/xmtr.

"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
...


Brian V wrote:
"Sam Takoy" wrote in message ...

Hi,

I have recently purchased a Honeywell wireless thermostat
(YTH6320R1015). Manual is here, page 4 is key:
http://www.pexuniverse.com/docs/pdf/...-guide-efs.pdf



I have split setup: A gas boiler in the basement (2-conductor
thermostat wire). My relatively modern Bryant AC unit is in the attic.
I therefore have two transformers. (For what it's worth, I've made
sure they have the same phase.)

I would like to control both systems with my thermostat. Honeywell
tech reps all agree that this must be possible, but give me
contradictory instructions. After several exchanges they seem to come
to an agreement that I might need a third transformer just to power
the unit independently from the transformers in my systems.

Does that make sense or could there be an easier solution!

Many many thanks in advance!

Sam


Remove the jumper from Rc, Rh and R.
Rc for cool transformer.
Rh for heat transformer.
Then simply jumper off ONE of those to power the stat itself.

-Brian
Gug? I thought Tc is R common, Rh is R for humidifier.

** In this case: R-C feed the control, RC is cooling, RH is heating

**My mistake, you do have to power the unit from the cooling system. C and
R, with jumper to RC, powers the unit and the cooling. Remove the jumper
from RH. connect the Y and G from your cooling system as well. Then the 2
wires from the heating system just go to RH and W o/b, and it doesn't matter
what order these two go in

Thank you for all the responses.

May I confirm that I understand something correctly? The reason why I
CAN'T power the unit via the heating system is because it doesn't
provide a hot. The two present conductors are responsible for the relay
only.

Thanks

"Sam Takoy" wrote in message
...

**My mistake, you do have to power the unit from the cooling system. C
and
R, with jumper to RC, powers the unit and the cooling. Remove the jumper
from RH. connect the Y and G from your cooling system as well. Then the 2
wires from the heating system just go to RH and W o/b, and it doesn't
matter
what order these two go in

Thank you for all the responses.

May I confirm that I understand something correctly? The reason why I
CAN'T power the unit via the heating system is because it doesn't provide
a hot. The two present conductors are responsible for the relay only.

Thanks

Exactly, typical heating system series 80, two wire, consists of a hot and a
return, but no common.It isn't so much that you can't do it using the
heating system's transformer, it's just that finding and accessing the
"common" for the 24 volt power supply can be difficult on the heating
system, where as on the cooling system it should be clearly defined

Backwards. The heating system doesn't provide a common.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Sam Takoy" wrote in message
...

**My mistake, you do have to power the unit from the
cooling system. C and
R, with jumper to RC, powers the unit and the cooling.
Remove the jumper
from RH. connect the Y and G from your cooling system as
well. Then the 2
wires from the heating system just go to RH and W o/b, and
it doesn't matter
what order these two go in

Thank you for all the responses.

May I confirm that I understand something correctly? The
reason why I
CAN'T power the unit via the heating system is because it
doesn't
provide a hot. The two present conductors are responsible
for the relay
only.

Thanks

On 4/29/2011 9:40 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Backwards. The heating system doesn't provide a common.


OK, I don't understand the most elementary things about electricity.
The way I imagined (in my amateur mind) things working is like this:

The boiler is connected to the thermostat by two wires. It powers one of
the wires (at 24V, 60hz), but the circuit is not closed. When the
thermostat needs the boiler to turn on, it closes the circuit. The
boiler senses that the current is on and turns on. Is that not the right
sketch?

The heating only thermostat is a switch. The 24VAC power
goes to the thermostat. If it's cold in the room, the power
comes back through the other wire. The power coming back is
used to power a relay, that switches on the 110 VAC power to
the circulating pump. Most boilers stay heated all year, the
thermostat controls the pump. If there is cold water coming
back from the house, the boiler cools down and the burner
comes on.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Sam Takoy"
wrote in message ...

OK, I don't understand the most elementary things about
electricity.
The way I imagined (in my amateur mind) things working is
like this:

The boiler is connected to the thermostat by two wires. It
powers one of
the wires (at 24V, 60hz), but the circuit is not closed.
When the
thermostat needs the boiler to turn on, it closes the
circuit. The
boiler senses that the current is on and turns on. Is that
not the right
sketch?

"Sam Takoy" wrote in message
...
On 4/29/2011 9:40 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Backwards. The heating system doesn't provide a common.


OK, I don't understand the most elementary things about electricity.
The way I imagined (in my amateur mind) things working is like this:

The boiler is connected to the thermostat by two wires. It powers one of
the wires (at 24V, 60hz), but the circuit is not closed. When the
thermostat needs the boiler to turn on, it closes the circuit. The boiler
senses that the current is on and turns on. Is that not the right sketch?

You got it. The step down transformer powering the typical residential
heating system, has 2 output terminals on it, giving you 24 volts across
them. Essentially, they're both "hot". Sometimes they label them R-C. One
leg off the transformer goes directly to the "thing" that the thermostat is
controlling. The other leg off the transformer goes to the thermostat. The
return wire from the thermostat goes back to the "thing" giving it the
complete circuit of 24 volts. In a residential heating system, the "thing"
can be any number of devices, depending upon the type of system, such as an
aquastat relay, circulator control switching relay, primary relay, zone
valve, and on and on.

On Apr 30, 3:39*am, Sam Takoy wrote:
On 4/29/2011 9:40 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Backwards. The heating system doesn't provide a common.

OK, I don't understand the most elementary things about electricity.
The way I imagined (in my amateur mind) things working is like this:

The boiler is connected to the thermostat by two wires. It powers one of
the wires (at 24V, 60hz), but the circuit is not closed. When the
thermostat needs the boiler to turn on, it closes the circuit. The
boiler senses that the current is on and turns on. Is that not the right
sketch?

LIKE STROMIN MOTOWN SAYS ...
BACK TO THE OQ - I WOULD GET A SEPERATE CONTROL CENTER OR BOX OUT A
MODULE TO ADDRESS BOTH UNITS...THEN WIRE UP THE HVAC SYSTEM TO IT WITH
THERMOSTATS WHERE NEEDED....THERE'S MORE TO PERFECTING IT BUT......WHY
COMPLICATE THE THREAD WITH "UNCALLED FOR" DETAILS.

TGITM

On 4/30/2011 7:18 AM, RBM wrote:
"Sam wrote in message
...
On 4/29/2011 9:40 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Backwards. The heating system doesn't provide a common.


OK, I don't understand the most elementary things about electricity.
The way I imagined (in my amateur mind) things working is like this:

The boiler is connected to the thermostat by two wires. It powers one of
the wires (at 24V, 60hz), but the circuit is not closed. When the
thermostat needs the boiler to turn on, it closes the circuit. The boiler
senses that the current is on and turns on. Is that not the right sketch?

You got it. The step down transformer powering the typical residential
heating system, has 2 output terminals on it, giving you 24 volts across
them. Essentially, they're both "hot". Sometimes they label them R-C. One
leg off the transformer goes directly to the "thing" that the thermostat is
controlling. The other leg off the transformer goes to the thermostat. The
return wire from the thermostat goes back to the "thing" giving it the
complete circuit of 24 volts. In a residential heating system, the "thing"
can be any number of devices, depending upon the type of system, such as an
aquastat relay, circulator control switching relay, primary relay, zone
valve, and on and on.


Thank you for the perfect explanation!

If both outputs of the transformer are hot, does that mean they are 12V
out-of-phase?

Also it makes sense that that wire would be called return because it
brings back the voltage to the "thing".

Final question: So if I have my A/C unit powering the thermostat, does
that mean that I have to have the A/C unit on even in the winter?

"Sam Takoy" wrote in message
...
On 4/30/2011 7:18 AM, RBM wrote:
"Sam wrote in message
...
On 4/29/2011 9:40 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Backwards. The heating system doesn't provide a common.


OK, I don't understand the most elementary things about electricity.
The way I imagined (in my amateur mind) things working is like this:

The boiler is connected to the thermostat by two wires. It powers one of
the wires (at 24V, 60hz), but the circuit is not closed. When the
thermostat needs the boiler to turn on, it closes the circuit. The
boiler
senses that the current is on and turns on. Is that not the right
sketch?

You got it. The step down transformer powering the typical residential
heating system, has 2 output terminals on it, giving you 24 volts across
them. Essentially, they're both "hot". Sometimes they label them R-C. One
leg off the transformer goes directly to the "thing" that the thermostat
is
controlling. The other leg off the transformer goes to the thermostat.
The
return wire from the thermostat goes back to the "thing" giving it the
complete circuit of 24 volts. In a residential heating system, the
"thing"
can be any number of devices, depending upon the type of system, such as
an
aquastat relay, circulator control switching relay, primary relay, zone
valve, and on and on.


Thank you for the perfect explanation!

If both outputs of the transformer are hot, does that mean they are 12V
out-of-phase?

Also it makes sense that that wire would be called return because it
brings back the voltage to the "thing".

Final question: So if I have my A/C unit powering the thermostat, does
that mean that I have to have the A/C unit on even in the winter?

**I'm no expert in transformer windings. You probably need someone with real
brains like maybe Bud to answer that.
As far as the "final question", you have to leave the power on to the air
handler in the attic. It won't be doing anything except powering your
wireless control. You do not have to leave the power on to the outside
condensing unit