I have a Wayne 57711-LWS1 pump.
Item 252798 at Lowe's,
from 7/10.
It keeps throwing the GFI and shuts down the electricity.
How can I find out if it is a minor problem (minor electrical leakage)
or enough to hurt someone (aside from sticking my hand in)? Is there
a simple test, e.g hook up a probe?
Are sump pumps made to be operating in a enclosed water tight
compartment? I ask because the pump has a drainage hole on the side,
which perhaps is there only for draining out water once it gets
inside.

"Deodiaus" wrote in message
...
I have a Wayne 57711-LWS1 pump.
Item 252798 at Lowe's,
from 7/10.
It keeps throwing the GFI and shuts down the electricity.
How can I find out if it is a minor problem (minor electrical leakage)
or enough to hurt someone (aside from sticking my hand in)? Is there
a simple test, e.g hook up a probe?
Are sump pumps made to be operating in a enclosed water tight
compartment? I ask because the pump has a drainage hole on the side,
which perhaps is there only for draining out water once it gets
inside.


**Assuming the ground fault device isn't defective, that is your test. It's
telling you that there is electrical leakage to ground. Regardless of the
amount of leakage it has today, it will likely increase over time. I've had
this happen very often with brand new submersible pumps. Just replace it

http://www.electricalknowledge.com/f...chives/572.asp
This has been discussed. My personal opinion is to put a
single outlet socket, and no GFCI for sump pump, or cellar
freezer. The sump isn't likely to be a shock hazzard, and it
is likely to be a flooded cellar if the GFCI trips.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Deodiaus" wrote in message
...
I have a Wayne 57711-LWS1 pump.
Item 252798 at Lowe's,
from 7/10.
It keeps throwing the GFI and shuts down the electricity.
How can I find out if it is a minor problem (minor
electrical leakage)
or enough to hurt someone (aside from sticking my hand in)?
Is there
a simple test, e.g hook up a probe?
Are sump pumps made to be operating in a enclosed water
tight
compartment? I ask because the pump has a drainage hole on
the side,
which perhaps is there only for draining out water once it
gets
inside.

On Apr 25, 10:07*pm, Deodiaus wrote:
I have a Wayne 57711-LWS1 pump.
Item 252798 at Lowe's,
*from 7/10.
It keeps throwing the GFI and shuts down the electricity.
How can I find out if it is a minor problem (minor electrical leakage)
or enough to hurt someone (aside from sticking my hand in)? *Is there
a simple test, e.g hook up a probe?
Are sump pumps made to be operating in a enclosed water tight
compartment? *I ask because the pump has a drainage hole on the side,
which perhaps is there only for draining out water once it gets
inside.

You dont put a frige on a gfi, I would not put a sump on one.

"ransley" wrote in message
...
On Apr 25, 10:07 pm, Deodiaus wrote:
I have a Wayne 57711-LWS1 pump.
Item 252798 at Lowe's,
from 7/10.
It keeps throwing the GFI and shuts down the electricity.
How can I find out if it is a minor problem (minor electrical leakage)
or enough to hurt someone (aside from sticking my hand in)? Is there
a simple test, e.g hook up a probe?
Are sump pumps made to be operating in a enclosed water tight
compartment? I ask because the pump has a drainage hole on the side,
which perhaps is there only for draining out water once it gets
inside.

You dont put a frige on a gfi, I would not put a sump on one.

** Yes, Nec requires a fridge to be on a GFCI, if it's located in a basement
or garage. If your sump pump is in your kitchen, it wouldn't be required to
be GFCI protected

In ,
Deodiaus typed:
I have a Wayne 57711-LWS1 pump.
Item 252798 at Lowe's,
from 7/10.
It keeps throwing the GFI and shuts down the electricity.
How can I find out if it is a minor problem (minor
electrical leakage) or enough to hurt someone (aside from
sticking my hand in)? Is there a simple test, e.g hook
up a probe?
Are sump pumps made to be operating in a enclosed water
tight compartment? I ask because the pump has a drainage
hole on the side, which perhaps is there only for
draining out water once it gets inside.

I never did a cross-section cut or anything to find out, but that little
hole appears to be to let oil, which surrounds the pump components, run out.
I had a uniit once which started popping the gfci. I was going to check
to see if there was any voltage on the case of the pump to ground by
plugging it into a non-gfci outlet. Well, I didn't get to measure anything
because it promptly opened the breaker upstairs in the box. Thus, in this
case, the gfci had done its job. When I pulled the pump up out of the water,
ol was leaking from that small hole in a fair stream. After a few minutes it
turned to water so I assume water had gotten into the motor workings.
That's the only time I ever had a gfci open up the ckt.


A sump pump, when powered by a dedicated line with no other components on
that line, as instructed on every packaging I've ever seen, will not pop a
gfci when there is no fault condtiion. Large inductances can sometimes make
a gfci pop because of the out of phase current/voltage, but sump pumps seem
to be designed such that a back-emf doesn't occur and look like a faul to
the gfci. Rotor lock or partial lock however could achieve a gfci popping
open so remember to inspect the impeller for dirt & junk that could impede
the motor from getting started properly.

BTW, IMO Wayne makes a good product.

HTH,

Twayne`